THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

DAVIS 

GIFT  OF 
JIM  HUNT 


THE  TECHNO-CHEMICAL 

EECEIPT  BOOK: 

CONTAINING 

SEVERAL  THOUSAND  RECEIPTS,  COVERING  THE  LATEST,  MOST 

IMPORTANT  AND  MOST  USEFUL  DISCOVERIES  IN  CHEMICAL 

TECHNOLOGY,  AND  THEIR  PRACTICAL  APPLICATION 

IN  THE  ARTS  AND  THE  INDUSTRIES. 

EDITED  CHIEFLY  FROM  THE  GERMAN 

OF 

DRS,  WINCKLER,  ELSNER,  HEINTZE,  MIERZINSKI, 
JACOBSEN,  KOLLER  AND  HEINZERLING. 

WITH   ADDITIONS  BY 

WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT, 

Graduate  of  the  Royal  Agricultural  College  of  Eldena,  Prussia, 
AND 

WILLIAM  H.  WAHL,  PH.D.  (HEID.), 

Secretary  of  the  Frankliu  Institute,  Philadelphia;  author  of  '  ;  Gaivanopiastic  Mauipulationa." 


Jllustrateb  bg  Seuents-eigljt 


PHILADELPHIA ; 
HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO., 

INDUSTRIAL  PUBLISHERS,   BOOKSELLERS  AND  IMPORTERS, 

810  WALNUT  STREET. 

LONDON: 
SAMPSON  LOW,  MARSTON,  SEARLE  &  RIVINGTON, 

CROWN  BUILDINGS,  188  FLEET  STREET. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORtftf 
DAVIS 


Copyright  by  HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  Co.,  1886, 


FerpnHon  Bros.  &  Co.. 

Electrotypers, 
15  N.  Seventh  Street, 


Philadelphia,  Pa. 


PHILADKLPHIA: 
COLLINS,  PRINTER,  705  JAYNE  STREET. 


PREFACE. 


THE  principal  aim  in  preparing  THE  TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT 
BOOK  has  been  to  give  an  accurate  and  compendious  collection  of  ap- 
proved receipts  and  processes  of  practical  application  in  the  industries, 
and  for  general  purposes.  The  work  is  essentially  what  it  claims  to  be 
— a  receipt  book  ;  and  all  theoretical  reasoning  and  historical  detail  have 
been  omitted.  Popular  and  simple  descriptions  have,  wherever  possible, 
been  preferred  to  technical  and  scientific  language.  The  materials  have 
been  principally  derived  from  German  technical  literature,  which  is 
especially  rich  in  receipts  and  processes  which  are  to  be  relied  on ;  most 
of  them  having  been  practically  tested  by  competent  men  before  being 
given  to  the  public. 

In  the  laborious  task  of  translation  and  compilation  only  the  best  and 
latest  authorities  have  been  resorted  to,  and  innumerable  volumes  and 
journals  consulted,  and  wherever  different  processes  of  apparently  equal 
value  for  attaining  the  same  end  have  been  found,  more  than  one  has 
been  introduced.  Every  care  has  been  taken  to  select  the  best  receipts 
of  each  kind,  and  we  are  confident  that  there  are  few  persons,  no  matter 
in  what  business  or  trade  they  may  be  engaged,  who  will  not  here  find 
something  of  use  and  benefit  to  them. 

In  regard  to  the  use  of  the  receipts,  the  observance  of  the  following 
rules  is  recommended  :  1.  Be  careful  to  use  the  exact  proportions  pre- 
scribed. 2.  Always  experiment  first  with  small  quantities.  3.  Should 
the  first  attempt  prove  unsuccessful,  do  not  condemn  the  receipt,  but 
make  another  trial,  as  the  fault  can  generally  be  traced  to  a  mistake  in 
the  manipulation  or  an  error  in  the  quantities. 

The  alphabetical  arrangement  adopted  and  a  very  copious  table  of 
contents,  as  well  as  index,  will  render  reference  to  any  subject  or  special 
receipt  prompt  and  easy. 

PHILADELPHIA,  June  10th,  1886. 

(iii) 


CONTENTS. 


ADULTERATIONS,  IMITATIONS,  ETC.    How  TO  DETECT  THEM  : 
Olive  oil  ;  Animal  charcoal  ;  Determination  of  percentage  of  oil  in  seeda      1 
Vinegar,  the  substances  with  which  it  can  be  adulterated  ;  Simple  pro- 

cess of  distinguishing  genuine  gilding  and  silvering  from  imitations  ; 

Milk  adulterations;  Adulteration  of  wax  with  tallow      ....      2 
To  test  dyes  for  adulterations  ;  To  detect  alum  in  red  wine  ;  Simple 

method  for  distinguishing  genuine  butter  from  artificial  ;  Crock's  method      3 
ALLOYS  : 
Alloys  for  teapots  ;  Oroide  ;  Britannia  metal  ;  Alloys  for  taking  impres- 

sions of  coins,  medals,  wood-cuts,  etc.  ;  Chrysorine  ;   Prince's  metal  ; 

Pinchbeck  ;  Robertson's  alloy  for  filling  teeth  ;  Aluminium  alloys        .      3 
Aluminium  bronzes;  Aluminium  alloy  for  soldering  aluminium;   Sil- 

ver and  aluminium  alloys  ;  Gold  and  aluminium  ;  Zinc  and  alumini- 

um ;  Tin  and  aluminium  ;  Bismuth  and  platinum  ;  Lead  and  alumini- 

um ;  Iron  and  aluminium         .  .........      4 

Tissier,  Debray,  and  Roger  on  iron  aluminium  alloys  ;  American  sleigh- 

bells;    Platinum   bronze;   White   metal;    Alloys  resembling  silver; 

Nickel  alloys  ;  Alloy  of  Christofle  and  Bouilhet  ;  Lutecine,  or  Paris 

metal  ;  A  new  and  very  fusible  alloy;  Wood's  metal  ;  Alloy  of  Lipowitz      5 
Type  metal;  Alloy  for  music  printing  plates;  S  pence's  metal;  New  al- 

loys for  journal-boxes  ;  Alloys  for  dental  purposes  ;  Manganese  bronze      6 
Unalterable  alloy;   Chinese  and  Japanese  bronzes;  Bronze  for  objects 

of  art  ;  Chinese  silver  ;  Composition  for  metal  stop-cocks  which  deposits 

no  verdigris;  Alloy  for  anti-friction  brasses;  Fenton's  alloy  for  axle- 

boxes  for  locomotives  and  wagons  ;  English  copper  alloys;  Brass;  Brass 

for  turned  articles      ...........      7 

Red  bronze  for  turned  articles  ;  Bronzes  for  castings  ;  Coin  metal;  Metals 

for  gongs  and  bells;  Bell  metals;  Bronze  for  cocks;  Statuary  bronze; 

Bronzes  for  medals,  rivets,  and  ornaments  ;  New  alloy  resembling  gold  ; 

Alloy  resembling  silver  ;  Alloy  for  imitation  gold  and  silver  wires  ; 

Minargent  ;  Composition  of  some  alloys          ......      8 

ARTIFICIAL  GEMS,  PEARLS,  AND  TURKISH  BEADS: 


Jesem's  glass-melting  furnace  ;  Schrader's  fluxes        .....      9 

Donault-Wieland's  flux  ;  "  Strass  ;  "  Ruby  ;  Splittgerber's  receipt  for  ruby 
glass  ;  Sapphire  ;  Emerald  ;  Chrysoprase        ......     10 

Opal;  Beryl,  or  aqua-marine;  Hyacinth;   Garnet;  Tourmaline;  Topaz 
and  Chrysolite  ;  Amethyst  ;  Lapis  Lazuli  ;  Agate  .        .        .        .11 

Schrader's  and  Wagner's  processes  for  producing  artificial  gems  ;  Color- 

ing substances  ;  Artificial  Pearls,  Geissler's  process  ;  Turkish  beads      .     12 
BITTERS,  CORDIALS,  ELIXIRS,  LIQUEURS,  RATAFIAS  AND  ESSENCES; 
EXTRACTS,  TINCTURES,  AND  WATERS  USED  IN  THEIR  MANUFACT- 
URE, AND  THE  MANNER  OF  COLORING  THEM  : 

Mode  of  coloring  cordials,  liqueurs,  etc.  ;  Coloring  substances  .        .        .12 
Essences,  extracts,  tinctures,  and  waters;  Absinthe  tincture;  Ambergris 
essence  ;  Angelica  essence  ;  Anise-seed  essence  and  extract  ;  Anise-seed 
tincture;  Aromatic  tincture;  Barbadoes  essence;  Bergamot  essence; 
Bitter  almond  essences       ..........     13 

Bitter  essences  ;  Bitter  extract  for  Griinewald  bitters  ;  Calamus  tinctures  ; 

(v) 


v£  CONTENTS. 

Caraway  essence  (Cumin  essence);  Cardamon  extracts;  Cherry  ex- 
tract; Cherry  water;  Chocolate  essence;  Cinnamon  essence;  Clove 
essence;  Coffee  essence;  Cognac  essence;  English  bitters  essence; 
Fennel  essence ;  Gold  water  essence  .......  14 

Herb  cordial  essence ;  Juniper  berry  essences;  Lavender  essence ;  Lemon 
essence;  Mace  extract;  Marjoram  essence ;  Musk  essence;  Nut  essence; 
Nutmeg  essence;  Orange-blossom  extract;  Orange-blossom  water; 
Orange  juice;  Orange  peel  extract;  Parfait  d'Amour  essence;  Peach 
essences  .............  15 

Peppermint  essences;  Quince  essence;  Raspberry  extracts;  Raspberry 
water;  Rose  essence;  Rose  water;  Rosemary  essence;  Sage  essence; 
Spanish  bitters  essence;  Strawberry  extract;  Strengthening  tincture; 
Vanilla  essence;  Vanilla  water  and  tincture;  Wormwood  essence; 
Elixir 16 

Angel  elixir;  Elixir  de  St.  Aur;  Elixir-Colombat:  Elixir  of  life;  Elixir 
Monpou;  Elixir  des  Troubadours;  Elixir  vital;  Juniper  elixir;  Ta- 
bpurey  elixir;  Bitters,  cordials,  liqueurs  and  ratafias;  Anise-seed  cor- 
dials; Anisette  cordial ;  French  anisette 17 

Holland  anisette;  Angelica  cordial;  Aqua  Bianca;  Aqua  reale;  Aqua- 
Turco  liqueur;  Aromatic  cordial;  Ambergris  water;  Berlin  bitters; 
Bitter  Rosso! i;  Breslau  bitter  cordial 18 

Calamus  liqueur;  Cardinal  water;  Cardinal  de  Rome;  Carminative  cor- 
dial;  Capuchin  cordial;  Chartreuse;  Cherry  liqueur;  Cherry  cordial  19 

Chocolate  liqueur;  Christofle;  Citronelle;  Crambambuli;  Danzig  cram- 
bambuli ;  Cumin  cord.ial  (Ku'mmel);  Cumin  liqueur;  Curacoa;  French 
and  Holland  curacoa;  Eau  Americaine 20 

Baud' Amour;  Eaud'Argent;  Eau  d'Ardelle ;  Eau  d'Absy nth  Citron ne; 
Eau  de  Cypre;  Eau  de  Dauphin;  Eau  de  Napoleon;  Eaud'Orient; 
Eau  d'Or  (Gold  water) 21 

Eau  de  Paradise ;  Eau  des  Princesses ;  Eau  Precieuse ;  Eau  royale;  Eau 
de  Sante;  Eau  de  Sept  Graines;  English  bitters;  Greek  bitters;  Ham- 
burg bitters;  Juniper  liqueur  ........  22 

Koch's  herb  extract;  Maraschino;  Mogador;  Nectar;  Orange  peel  cor- 
dial; Parfait  d'Amour;  Peach  cordial;  Peppermint  cordials;  Polish 
water;  Polish  whiskey ;  Quince  cordial  (Quittico);  Rosemary  cordial  23 

Rossolio  de  Turin;  Rostopschin;  Scubac;  Soya  aqua  vitse;  Spanish  bit- 
ters ;  Stettin  bitters ;  Stomach  bitters 24 

Vienna  stomach  bitters ;  Swiss  cordial;  Thiem's  bitters ;  Tivoli  cordial; 
Trappistine ;  Vanilla  cordial ;  Veritable  extrait  d'absinthe ;  Vienna  bit- 
ters ;  Wormwood  cordial ;  Ratafias ;  Barbadoes  ratafia  .  .  .25 

Cocoa  ratafia;  Citronat-ratafia ;  Claret  ratafia;  English  bitters  ratafia; 
Fennel  ratafia;  Ginger  ratafia;  Ratafia  Chinoise  (Chinese  liqueur); 
Ratafia  de  Grenoble ;  Mulberry  ratafia ;  Orange  ratafia ;  Apple  ratafia ; 
Pear  ratafia;  Stomachic  ratafia 26 

Celery,  Scotch,  Vanilla  and  Wormwood  ratafias 27 

BLASTING  COMPOUNDS,  BLASTING  POWDER,  DYNAMITE,  GUN-COTTON, 
GUNPOWDER.  NITRO-GLYCERINE,  FULMINATES,  ETC.  : 

Nitro-glycerine;  Mowbray's  process  of  manufacturing  nitro-glycerine     .    27 

R.  Bottger's  process  of  manufacturing  nitro-glycerine;  Dynamite  and 
various  formulae  of  making  cellulose  dynamite;  Lithofracteur ;  Ditt- 
mar's  dualin  ;  New  dynamite  by  Anthoine  &  Genaud ;  Carboazotine  .  29 

Brise-rocs;  Pudrolith  ;  Pyrolith  ;  Trets'  blasting  powder;  Frozen  dyna- 
mite ;  Augendre's  white  powder ;  Hafenegger's  gun  and  blasting  powder  30 

Dr.  Borlinetto's  gunpowder;  Sharp  &  Smith's  patent  gunpowder; 
Spence's  powder  for  cannon  of  large  calibre;  Non-explosive  powder; 
Green's  blasting  powder;  Giant  dynamite;  Blasting  compound  from 
potato-starch 31 

Martinsen's  new  blasting  powder ;  To  protect  blasting  agents  containing 


CONTENTS.  -v\ 

nitroglycerine  and  ammonium  nitrate  from  moisture,  and  to  prevent 
the  exudation  of  the  nitro-glycerine ;  Giant  powder;  Faure  &  French's 
Blasting  compound;  Gun-cotton;  New  blasting  compounds;  Peralite; 
Jaline;  New  blasting  compound  from  a  combination  of  honey  and  glyc- 
erine   32 

Preparation  of  blasting  compounds  by  directly  nitrating  crude  tar  oils; 
Gelatinous  nitro-glycerine ;  "  Forcite ; "  Cartridge  shells  of  easily  com- 
bustible substances ;  Fulminate  of  mercury ;  Fulminate  of  silver;  Ful- 
minating platinum 33 

Fulminating  gold 34 

BLEACHING: 

New  method  of  bleaching  cotton  yarns,  tissues,  etc. ;  Cleansing  of  cotton 
and  other  vegetable  fibres ;  To  bleach  cotton  goods  with  woven  borders ; 
To  bleach  muslin;  Frohnheiser's  method  of  bleaching  cotton;  To 
bleach  cotton  goods ;  Cotton,  bleaching 34 

Bleaching  of  woollen  tissues 35 

To  keep  woollen  goods  white ;  To  bleach  wool  without  sulphur ;  To  make 
wool  bleached  without  sulphur  beautifully  white;  Bleaching  of  silk; 
Hartmann's  quick  method  of  bleaching  flax  yarn  .  .  .  .36 

To  bleach  sponges;  To  bleach  and  harden  tallow;  To  bleach  bristles; 
To  bleach  copper  plate  engravings,  wood-cuts,  etc. ;  To  bleach  shellac  37 

To  bleach  straw;  David's  new  process  of  bleaching    ......    38 

To  bleach  stained  marble 39 

BOILER  INCRUSTATIONS  : 

Receipts  to  prevent  and  remove  boiler  incrustations  .        .        .        .39 

Alfieri's  receipt;  Baudet's  preventive ;  Rogers' preventives      .        .        .40 
BONE,  HORN  AND  IVORY— To  BLEACH  AND  DYE  THEM,  AND  MAKE 
IMITATIONS  AND  COMPOSITIONS: 

To  bleach  bone  and  ivory;  To  bleach  bones;  Hedinger's  method  of 
bleaching  bones  for  turners'  use ;  Peineman's  process  of  bleaching  ivory 
turned  yellow  ;  To  make  ivory  soft  and  flexible 40 

New  process  of  bleaching  ivory  and  bones;  Dyeing  of  bone  and  ivory; 
Receipts  for  different  colors 41 

To  produce  black  and  colored  drawings  upon  ivory 42 

Artificial  ivory;  Artificial  ivory  for  photographic  purposes;  New  arti- 
ficial ivory ;  To  bleach  ivory  articles  fastened  upon  leather,  etc. ;  Com- 
pound for  buttons,  dice,  doniinos,  etc. ;  A.  new  method  of  treating  horn; 
To  dye  horn  to  resemble  tortoise  shell 43 

Buttons  from  waste  of  horn 44 

BRONZING  AND  COLORING  OF  METALS: 

Green  bronzes  for  brass ;  Chinese  bronze ;  Bronzing  process  used  in  the 
Paris  Mint;  Oxidized  silver ;  Antique  green 44 

Fire-proof  bronze  upon  copper  and  brass;  Commercial  bronzes;  Bronze 
for  plaster-of-Paris  figures;  Bronze  powders;  Copper-colored  bronze 
powder ;  Moire  metallique 45 

Black  bronze  for  brass  (R.  Wagner) ;  Walker's  chemical  bronze ;  Blue 
bronze ;  Brown  bronze  ;  Gold  bronze  of  great  lustre  on  iron ;  Steel  blue 
on  brass;  Black  on  brass;  Red  copper-bronze  on  white  sheet  tin  and 
tinned  articles;  To  give  copper  a  durable  lustre;  New  method  of  col- 
oring metals 46 

Graham's  bronzing  liquids  for  brass  .......    47 

Graham's  bronzing  liquids  for  copper  and  zinc  ;  Dead-black  on  brass  in- 
struments; Substitute  for  gum-Arabic  in  manufacturing  bronze  colors; 

Preservation  of  bronze  monuments 48 

BUILDING  MATERIALS,  ARTIFICIAL  BUILDING  STONE,  MORTARS,  ETC.  : 

Various  formulae  for  artificial  stone  ;  Artificial  building  stone;  Artificial 
building  stone  prepared  with  cork;  Artificial  stone  from  quartz  sand 
and  plumbic  oxide;  E.  Schaffer's  artificial  stone  (Elizabeth,  N.  J.) ;  E, 


viii  CONTENTS. 

E.  Westermeyer's  artificial  stone  (Chicago,  111.) ;  F.  Coignet's  (Paris) ;  A. 
Quesnot's  (Bloomington,  111.) 49 

Artificial  stones  of  J.  Scbellinger,  New  York ;  Of  J.  Ordway,  Jamaica 
Plains,  New  York ;  Of  S.  Sorel,  of  Paris ;  Of  Adolph  Ott,  New  York ; 
"  Victoria  stone "  (Highton's  process) ;  Eansome's  artificial  stone ; 
Apcenite 50 

Frear's  artificial  stone ;  Building  stones,  pipes,  etc. ;  Artificial  mill- 
stones;  Grindstones;  New  plastic  water-proof  grindstones ;  To  imitate 
variegated  marble;  A.  Garvey's,  of  Memphis,  Tenn.,  "lithornarlite;" 
Artificial  marble ;  Cement  from  blast  furnace  slag  .  .  .  .51 

Very  hard  and  durable  cement;  To  manufacture  cement  from  blast  fur- 
nace slag;  To  prepare  white  cement;  To  prepare  artificial  cement;  To 
harden  cement,  lime,  and  •similar  materials;  Oil  cement  paint  for  felt 
roofing ;  Requisites  for  good  mortar 52 

Hydraulic  mortar  from  lime  and  alum  shale ;  Bitumen  mortar ;  Hydraulic 
mortar;  Water-proof  mortar;  To  prepare  clay  plaster;  Plaster  for 
damp  walls;  Treatment  of  asphaltum  for  paving  purposes;  Marble- 
izing  sandstone 53 

To  make  sandstone  and  other  porous  stones  tough  and  impermeable ;  To 
repair  worn-down  sandstone  steps ;  Concrete  marble ;  To  make  wood 
almost  incombustible ;  To  dry  damp  walls;  Lyons  asphaltum  .  .  54 

To  make  glass  roofs  water-tight;   To  preserve  wood;   Bricks,  size  and 

weight  of;  Making  brick  masonry  impervious  to  water          .        .        .55 
COCOA  AND  CHOCOLATE: 

Machines  required  for  manufacture  of  chocolate 55 

Receipts  for  ordinary  and  spiced  chocolate 56 

Receipts  for  fine  Spanish  spiced,  for  Vienna,  Paris,  Milan,  Hygienic,  and 
Iceland  moss  chocolates;  Chocolate  with  meat  extract;  Iron  chocolate; 
Chocolate  with  carbonate  of  iron ;  Racahout  des  Arabes;  Dr.  Koeben's 
nourishing  and  healing  powder 57 

Vakaka  indorurn ;  Palamaud  or  Palmgr£ne  or  allataim  du  harem ;  white 

chocolate 58 

CELLULOID,  CAOUTCHOUC,  GUTTA-PERCHA,  AND  SIMILAR  COMPOSITIONS  : 

Preparation  of  celluloid;  Treatment  of  pyroxyline  in  the  manufacture 
or  plastic  masses  ...........  58 

How  to  work  and  treat  celluloid;  New  celluloid;  Manufacture  of  rubber 
stamps 59 

To  soften  rubber  hose  after  it  has  become  hard ;  Metalized  caoutchouc ;  To 
remove  stickiness  from  the  surface  of  dried  caoutchouc ;  Cement  for  vul- 
canized caoutchouc ;  Utilization  of  vulcanized  caoutchouc  waste ;  Gutta- 
percha  composition;  To  color  caoutchouc  and  gutta-percha  black  or 
green ;  Solution  of  gutta-percha  for  shoemakers ;  Caoutchouc  com- 
positions for  sharpening  and  polishing  knives,  etc.  .  .  .  .  60 

Caoutchouc  cements  for  glass ;  Cement  for  rubber  shoes  and  boots ;  Gutta- 
percha  cements  for  glass,  leather,  and  rubber  combs;  Elastic  gutta- 
percha  and  linseed  oil  cement ;  Gutta-percha  cement  for  horses'  hoofs ; 
Substitute  for  caoutchouc 61 

Substitute  for  gutta-percha ;  Compositions  for  ornaments,  busts,  toys,  etc. ; 
and  for  rollers  of  wringers  and  washing  machines ;  Asbestos  and  rubber 
packing;  Composition  for  billiard  balls;  and  for  picture  frames;  A 
masses  for  toys,  vessels,  etc.,  and  for  dolls'  heads  ...  .  62 

Marmorin ;  New  mass  for  hollow  articles ;  Papier  mache  from  flour ; 
Fine  pasteboard  mass  for  moulding  large  figures ;  Composition  for  razor 

strops 63 

CEMENTS,  PASTES,  AND  PUTTIES: 

To  cement  iron  to  iron ;  Mastic  cement ;  Cement  for  steam-pipes,  for  glass 
retorts,  and  for  porcelain ;  Water  and  fireproof  cement  for  metal,  por- 
celain, and  earthenware 63 


CONTENTS.  i* 

Cements  for  fastening  metal  letters  upon  glass,  marble,  wood,  etc. ;  Cement 
for  fastening  iron  articles  in  stone ;  Cement  for  stone  troughs  and  wooden 
vats;  Cement  for  repairing  articles  of  sandstone;  Davy's  universal 
cement;  Cements  for  joining  leather  driving  belts,  for  fastening  rubber 
upon  metal,  for  aquaria,  and  for  repairing  defective  places  in  castings.  64 

Cement  for  leather;  Glycerine  cement ;  Cement  for  petroleum  lamps,  for 
tortoise  shell,  for  ivory  and  bone;  Caseine  cements;  Chinese  blood 
cement ;  Blood  and  ash  cement  ........  65 

Jewellers'  cement;  Armenian  glue;  Cement  for  quickly  closing  leaky 
places  in  barrels;  Cement  for  iron  stoves;  To  prepare  liquid  glue; 
Liquid  glue ;  Glues  for  labels,  for  fancy  articles,  fine  leather  goods,  etc. ; 
Water-proof  glue  for  wooden  utensils;  Glue  for  ivory  and  bone  ;  Glue 
for  joining  glass  to  wood ;  Diamond  glue  of  the  best  quality  .  .  66 

Chromium  glue;  Mouth  glues;  Lime  putty  and  French  putty  for  wood; 
Powdered  wood,  oil,  and  glue  putties ;  Putty  for  floors  of  soft  wood ; 
Putty  for  floors  which  are  to  be  scrubbed,  and  for  floors  which  are 
to  be  lacquered  .  .  .  .  .......  67 

Paste  for  wall-paper;  Paste  for  microscopic  objects;  Glycerine  glue  for 
microscopic  preparations;  Paste  for  postage  stamps;  Sugar  and  lime 
paste;  Fluid  paste;  Dry  pocket  paste;  Good  cements  for  filling  teeth.  68 

Cement  for  injured  trees  ;  German  tree  wax  and  grafting  wax ;  Durable 
paste ;  Paste  for  fixing  printed  labels  on  machines ;  Safety  pastes  for 

post-office  packages 69 

CHEMICAL  AND  TECHNO  CHEMICAL  EXPEDIENTS,  PREPARATIONS: 

Johnson's  process  and  apparatus  for  manufacturing  potassium  ferro- 
eyanide;  Phosphorescent  (illuminating)  powder;  To  thaw  frozen 
ground 70 

Artificial  sandstone  for  filtering ;  To  prepare  tincture  of  litmus ;  New 
method  of  extracting  tannin 71 

Process  and  apparatus  for  purifying  water  with  a  mixture  of  caustic  mag- 
nesia or  carbonate  of  magnesia  and  saw-dust;  Caustic  potash;  Caustic 
soda;  Pure  chlorine  gas;  Chloride  of  zinc  ......  72 

Chloride  of  gold ;  To  prepare  pure  oxalic  acid ;  To  prepare  purified  oleic 
acid;  Cream  of  tartar;  Lunar  caustic;  Pure  acetic  acid ;  Sulphocyanic 
acid ;  Molybdic  acid  from  molybdenum  di-sulphide  .  .  .  .73 

Potassium  acetate;   To  prepare  sulphate  of  copper;   Liver  of  sulphur; 
Schiel's  apparatus  for  testing  the  percentage  of  nicotine  in  tobacco; 
Wilson's  process  of  preparing  glycerine;  To  restore  faded  manuscripts.     74 
CLEANSING,  POLISHING,  AND  RENOVATING  AGENTS: 

To  remove  ink  stains  from  wood;  Ink  and  rust  stains  from  clothes ;  Mil- 
dew, wine,  or  fruit  stains  from  silk  or  linen ;  Tar,  grease,  oil,  and  var- 
nish from  silk;  Ink  stains  from  silk;  To  remove  wax  from  velvet; 
Grease  stains  from  paper;  Scouring  water  for  removing  grease  stains; 
Le  Francois  scouring  fluid  ;  "Gantein"  for  cleansing  gloves  .  .  75 

To  cleanse  glasses  and  saucers;  Longet's  polishing  powder  for  gold 
workers;  To  cleanse  glass  vessels;  To  cleanse  manilla  indigo;  Toclennse 
files ;  To  cleanse  paint  brushes  from  dried-in  paint ;  To  cleanse  steel  and 
iron  from  rust;  To  cleanse  barrels ;  Polishing  powder  for  glass  and  metal; 
To  cleanse  straw_  hats ;  Scouring  soaps 76 

To  purify  bisulphide  of  carbon ;  Polishing  powder  for  plate  glass,  mir- 
rors, etc. ;  Polishing  rags  and  polislung  paste  for  metals ;  Wabeck's  pol- 
ishing wax  ;  Fine  jewellers' rouge ;  To  remove  stains  from  books;  To 
free  paper  from  fatty  substances  ....  ....  77 

To  cleanse  gloves  without  wetting  them ;  To  cleanse  tea  and  coffee  trays, 
marble  busts,  alabaster,  and  precious  stones1;  To  cleanse  and  beautify 
old  oak  furniture;  To  cleanse  brass  and  silver;  Polishing  powder  for 
silverware,  gold,  etc. ;  Magnus'  patent  polish  for  slate  .  .  .  .78 


i  CONTENTS. 

COLORED  CHALKS,  CRAYONS,  PENCILS,  AND  INKS  FOR  MARKING  LINEN, 
ETC.: 

Blue  chalks  ;  Colored  crayons;  Pencils  for  writing  on  glass,  and  for  mark- 
ing linen;  Marking-ink  for  linen  ........  79 

New  marking  ink;   Colored  indelible  inks ;  Blue  stamp  color        .        .    80 
CONFECTIONERY  : 

To  prepare  elaeosaccharum,  or  oil  sugar ;  Malt  and  orange  sugars ;  Pec- 
toral troches 80 

Pectoral,  raspberry,  carrot,  cream,  and  malt  bonbons;  Cream  walnuts; 
To  prepare  bonbons  of  caramel  sugar  with  soft  filling ;  Sweetmeats 
(conserves) ;  Chocolate  and  orange  sweetmeats 81 

Orange  blossom,  rose,  jasmine,  carnation,  vanilla,  filbert,  heliotrope, 
angelica,  lemon,  cinnamon,  cherry,  peppermint,  and  love  sweetmeats  .  82 

Sweet  smelling  and  violet  sweetmeats ;  Medicinal  sweetmeats :  Spoon- 
wort,  water  cress,  antiscorbutic  sweetmeats ;  Crenie  du  cafe ;  Creme  du 
chocolade ;  Coated  filberts ;  Boasted  almonds  and  filberts ;  Coated 
chestnuts ;  Candied  cherries 83 

Glazed  almonds;  Coated  orange  blossoms;  Candied  oranges;  Peppermint 
drops;  Punch  drops;  Lozenges:  Spice  for  lozenges;  Chinese,  lemon, 
peppermint,  ginger,  and  stomachic  lozenges  ;  Cherry  marmalade  .  84 

Tceland  moss,  isinglass,  gelatine,   buckhorn,   sago,  tapioca,   and   Irish 
moss  jellies;  Ground  mass  for  crenie  (Creme  fondant);  Red  color  for 
sweetmeats,  jellies,  etc. ;  Innoxious  green  color  for  candies ;  Receipts  for 
preparing  bandoline  or  Fixateur ;   baking  powder      ....        85 
COPYING  AND  PRINTING: 

A  new  method  of  copying  engravings,  drawings,  and  designs;  Gelatin- 
ography  :  A  cheap,  quick,  and  simple  process  of  duplicating  drawings 
by  means  of  the  printing  press;  Autographic  method  of  printing;  To 
duplicate  writings  and  drawings ;  Printing  in  colors  .  .  .  .86 

To  copy  drawings  in  black  lines  on  white  ground;  Cyanotype  (blue 
prints);  Almography;  Poly  graphic  method 87 

Jacobsen's  callograph;    The  hektograph ;    Edison's  electric  pen;    The 

cyclostyle         . 88 

DAMASKEENING  STEEL: 

Genuine  daruask ;  Imitation  of  damask ;  Damaskeening  with  gold  or  silver.    89 
DECORATION,  ORNAMENTATION,  ETC.: 

To  gild  glass 89 

Gold  for  illuminating  ;  To  gild  porcelain  ;  To  gild  an  ornamental  frame ; 
Applying  the  first  coat;  Preparation  of  gilding  size;  Applying  the 
gilding  size 90 

Bright  lustre;  Dead  lustre;  Silvering;  Silvering  with  a  dead  lustre;  To 
silver  wooden  figures  with  bismuth;  To  gild  and  silver  visiting  cards; 
To  gild  or  silver  morocco  paper;  To  gild  cotton;  Gilding  and  silvering 
on  parchment  and  paper;  Italian  method  of  gilding  wood  .  .  .91 

Burot's  process  of  silvering  and  gilding  silk,  cotton,  and  woollen  yarns; 
To  make  glass  opaque  or  frosted;  Ornamenting  metal  surfaces;  Au- 
briat's  new  process  of  decorating  glass 92 

Artificial  wood  for  ornamental  purposes;  Use  of  wood  tar  for  architect- 
ural decorations;  To  produce  ornaments  from  wood  mass  .  .  .93 

To  fasten  leather  ornaments,  etc.,  upon  metal ;  To  decorate  tin  with  cop- 
per plates  and  lithographs ;  Impressions  of  flowers  on  glass   .        .        .94 
DENTIFRICES  AND  MOUTH  WASHES: 

American  tooth  powder;  Asiatic  dentifrices ;  Cartwright's  tooth  powder ; 
Deschamp's  alkaline  and  acid  tooth  powders 94 

Charcoal,  Circassian,  red,  Hufeland's  tooth  powder;  Paris  tooth  powder; 
Mouth  wash  for  strengthening  the  teeth  and  gums  ;  Mouth  wash  against 
toothache;  Antiseptic  mouth  paste ;  Kolbe's  mouth  wash  ;  Hager's  red 
tooth  powder  and  tooth  paste ;  Quillaya  dentifrice  .  .  .  .95 


CONTENTS.  xi 

DYEING  WOOLLEN  AND   COTTON  GOODS  AND  YARNS,  SILK,  STRAW 
HATS,  FELT  HATS,  KID  GLOVES,  HORSEHAIR,  ETC.    MORDANTS: 

Cleansing  old  silk  to  be  dyed 95 

Dyeino1  silks  of  various  colors;  To  dye  woollen  goods  and  yarns;  Dark 
blue .  96 

Blue  (dark  fugitive  color) ;  Gens  d'Armes  blue  on  loose  wool,  yarns,  and 
piece  goods  ;  Various  shades  of  brown ;  Brown  (sanders  wood,  fast) ; 
Chamois 97 

Various  shades  of  gray ;  Green :  Olive  and  brownish  olive ;  Lilac ;  Or- 
ange ;  Yellows 98 

Cotton  goods  and  yarns :  To  dye  black,  chocolate-brown,  chamois,  crim- 
son ;  Gold  color  (cotton  for  fringes,  etc.) ;  Silver-gray ;  Dark  green  .  99 

Mineral  green;  Yellow;  Chrome-yellow;  To  dye  wool,  silk,  and  cotton 
with  aniline  colors:  Fuchsine  on  wool;  Fuchsiue  on  silk  (bluish 
shade) ;  Fuchsine  on  cotton  ;  Eosine  on  wool 100 

Eosine  on  silk ;  Eosine  on  cotton ;  Scarlet  and  erythrosine  on  wool ;  Violet 
on  wool;  Violet  on  silk;  Aniline  blue  (blue,  light  blue,  and  soluble 
blue) ;  On  wool  and  silk;  On  cotton;  Alkali  blue;  For  100  pounds  of 
wool ;  Light  blue  on  cotton 101 

China  blue  on  cotton;  Dahlia  and  primula;  Methyl-violet;  Methyl  and 
emerald-green;  Wool,  silk,  and  cotton;  Woollen  yarn;  Malachite 
green 102 

Napthaline  colors  (ponceau,  orange,  and  Bordeaux)  on  woollen  yarn  and 
piece  goods;  Composition  of  tin ;  To  dye  silk  and  cotton  with  naptha- 
line  colors  ;  Acetate  of  alumina  fre?  from  lead  ;  To  dye  felt  hats  with 
aniline  colors;  To  dye  felted  fabrics  with  aniline  colors  ...  103 

To  dye  mother-of-pearl  with  aniline  colors ;  To  dye  straw  and  straw  hats, 
black, chestnut-brown, silver-gray,  and  violet;  To  dye  kid  gloves;  Mo- 
rocco-red ;  Gray 104 

To  dye  kid  gloves  orange-yellow ;  To  dye  horsehair  black,  blue,  brown, 
and  red;  To  dye  imitation  corals;  Animalizing  of  hemp,  jute,  etc. ; 
Mordants :  Olivier's  mixtures  as  substitutes  for  tartar  in  dyeing  wool ; 
Huilard's  substitute  for  tartar  in  dyeing  wool  black;  Mordant  for  dark 
red  on  cottons  ;  Mordant  for  light  red  on  cottons 105 

Mordants  for  scarlet,  light  scarlet,  crimson,  rose-red,  fiery  red,  purple,  and 
violet  on  cottons  ;  Manner  of  preparing  the  mordants;  Use  of  metallic 
sulphides  as  mordants  in  dyeing  cottons  with  aniline  colors;  Practical 
directions  for  dyeing  cotton  yarn  Turkey-red  with  alizarine  .  .  106 

To  prepare  the  so-called  Turkey-red  oil ;  English  alizarin  oil  (Patent  oil) ; 

A  new  dye 107 

ELECTRO-PLATING,  GALVANOPLASTY,  GILDING,  NICKELLING,  SILVER- 
ING, TINNING,  ETC.  : 

Nickel  plating _.        .107 

Improvement  in  nickel  plating  (E.  Weston,  Newark,  N.  J.) ;  Martin  and 
Delamotte's  process  of  nickel  plating ;  Latest  improvements  in  nickel 
plating  (Powell,  of  Cincinnati,  O.) 108 

Receipts  for  ordinary  nickel  baths;  American  nickelling;  Bath  for  iron, 
cast-iron,  and  steel ;  Bath  for  brass,  copper,  tin,  Britannia  metal,  lead, 
zinc,  and  tinned  sheet  metal;  Latest  Anglo-American  nickelling  .  .  109 

Preparation  of  the  metals  to  be  nickelled ;  To  nickel  iron  without  the  use 
of  electricity  ;  Doumesnil's  process  of  platinizing  metal  .  .  .  110 

Platinizing  of  metals ;  To  electroplate  metals  with  cobalt;  Plating  with 
aluminium;  Gilding  copper  by  boiling Ill 

To  impart  a  more  brilliant  gold  color  to  gilded  or  gold-plated  articles; 
To  silver  articles  of  Bessemer  steel;  Adrielle's  process  of  silvering 
metals;  Piffard's  galvanoplastic  silvering;  Silvering  tincture;  Cold 
silvering  of  copper'  ...........  112 

New  process  of  making  silvered  telescopic  mirrors;  New  process  for  sil- 


xii  CONTENTS. 

vering  iron  and  steel  (Pierre  de  Villiers,  St.  Leonards,  England) ;  Tin- 
ning of  east-iron         ...........  113 

To  tin  cooking  utensils  ;  Cold  tinning;  New  process  of  galvanizing  iron; 
Gourlier's  salt  mixtures  for  galvanic  coppering,  bronzing,  etc. ;  Coating 
of  brass;  Bronzing  wrought  and  cast-iron;  To  coat  wire  with  brass  .  114 

Coppering  bath  for  wrought  and  cast-iron  or  steel  articles;  Simple  fire- 
plating  for  iron;  Method  and  apparatus  for  preparing  paper  matrices 
for  stereotype  plates;  Composition  for  moulds  for  galvanoplastic  de- 
posits; Elastic  moulds  for  galvanoplastic  copies  in  very  high  relief       .  115 
ENAMELS  AND  ENAMELLING  : 

To  enamel  cast-iron  utensils 115 

Enamel  for  sheet-iron  vessels;  To  enamel  iron  ;  To  enamel  copper  cook- 
ing utensils;  Process  of  enamelling  cast-iron;  To  enamel  and  cement 
metals  and  other  substances 116 

Enamel  for  watch  dials;  Colored  enamels;  Preparation  of  fluxes;  Blue, 
brown,  reddish-brown,  Vandyke-brown,  yellow,  orange,  green,  dark  red, 
pale  red,  and  black  enamels  .  ' 117 

Very  beautiful  black  enamel   for  inlaying  and  ground;  Black  enamel 
for  painting  and   mixing  with  other  colors ;    Opaque  white  enamel ; 
Glass  enamel  for  iron;  Niello  .........  118 

FEATHERS,  OSTRICH,  MARABOUTS,  ETC.,  HOW  TO  WASH,  RESTORE  AND 
DYE: 

Description  of  feathers,  plumes,  and  marabouts 118 

To  wash  feathers  and  marabouts ;  To  bleach  feathers ;  To  restore  crushed 
and  bent  feathers ;  To  dye  feathers ;  To  dye  feathers  black  .  .  .  119 

To  dye  feathers  black,  brown,  and  puce  colors 120 

To  dye  feathers  blue;  To  dye  with  indigo  red,  Bleu  de  France,  crimson, 
and  ruby-red;  Rose-colors;  Yellow;  Garnet-brown;  Gray  .  .  .  121 

Green;  Chestnut-brown;  Lilac;  Orange;  Ruby-red;  Violet;  To  dye 
feathers  with  aniline  colors;  Rose-color;  Reddish-blue;  Greenish-blue; 
Genuine  alkali  (Nicholson's)  blue;  Green;  Orange;  Puce;  Bronze 

lustre 122 

FIRE-EXTINGUISHING  AGENTS  AND  MEANS  OF  MAKING  TISSUES,  WOOD, 
ETC.,  INCOMBUSTIBLE: 

Munich  fire-extinguishing  powder;  Vienna  fire-extinguishing  powder; 
Fluids  for  making  tissues  incombustible ;  To  make  tissues  incombusti- 
ble (Prize  process  of  J.  A.  Martin,  Paris,  France)  123 

For  all  light  tissues ;  For  painted  decorations  and  wood ;  For  coarse  linen, 
ropes,  straw,  and  wood ;  Cartridges  for  extinguishing  fire ;   To  make 
paper  incombustible ;  To  make  theatre  scenes,  wood,  etc.,  incombusti- 
ble; Bucher's  fire-extinguishing  powder;  Hand-grenades      .        .        .  124 
FIREWORKS  : 

Bengal  lights 124 

Quick  matches;  White  fire;  Mohr's  white  fire;  White  fire  for  theatres ; 
Greenish-white  fire;  Bluish-white  fire 125 

Red  fire;  Braunschweiger's  red  fire;  Holtz's  red  fire  ;  Red  fire  mixtures; 
Purple  fire;  Rose-red  light ;  Red-orange  fire;  Dark-violet,  pale-violet, 
and  blue  fires 126 

Dark -blue  and  pale-blue  fires ;  Blue  fire  with  a  bluish-green  flame ;  Green 
fire;  Green  fire  according  to  Braunschweiger ;  Other  receipts  for  green 
fire ;  Pale-green  fire ;  Dark-green  fire ;  Yellow  fire ;  Other  colored  fire- 
works ;  White,  red,  green,  and  blue  stars 127 

Bluish-green,  yellowish-green,  and  yellow  stars ;  White,  red,  green,  blue, 
bluish-green,  and  yellow  candles;  Japanese  matches;  Prof.  Bottger's 
imitation  of  Japanese  matches ;  Fireworks  for  use  in  rooms  according 
to  Perron ;  Pharaoh's  serpents 128 

Harmless  substitute  for  Pharaoh's  serpents 129 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

FOOD  AND  FOOD  PREPARATIONS  : 

Soup  extract ;  Meat  flour ;  Pressed  feed  for  horses ;  Strengthening  foods 
known  as  "  Dictamia  "  and  "  Palamoud  ; "  Soup  tablets ;  Stilton  cheese 
as  prepared  in  England ;  Honey  from  beets  and  carrots  .  .  .  129 

To  prepare  potato  flour  for  soups ;  Meat  biscuit ;  Apparatus  and  method 
for  preparing  a  substitute  for  coffee ;  Bread  for  horse-feed ;  Pudding 
powders  (vanilla);  Almond  and  chocolate  puddings;  Manufacture  of 
artificial  butter 130 

Margarine ;  Mege's  process  for  oleomargarine 131 

Other  processes  for  oleomargarine ;  Tables  of  the  composition  of  the  best- 
known  milk  foods  for  children  ;  Condensed  milk ;  Infants'  food  .  .  132 

Receipts  for  Vienna  economical  butters ;  Ambrosia;  Hydroleine      .        .  133 
FREEZING  MIXTURES  : 

Freezing  salt ;  Other  mixtures 133 

FRUIT  AND  OTHER  SYRUPS: 

American  syrups  for  mineral  waters  and  lemonades ;  Receipts  for  lemon 
syrups;  Mulberry,  vanilla,  vanilla  cream,  and  cream  syrups;  Ginger, 
pineapple,  strawberry,  peach,  raspberry,  currant,  cherry,  and  orange 
syrups;  Sherbet,  nectar,  coffee,  and  wintergreen  syrups  .  .  .  134 

Maple  syrup ;  Chocolate  syrups ;  White  or  red  wine  syrup ;  Coffee  cream 
syrup ;  Solferino  syrup ;  Ambrosia  syrup ;  Orgeat  syrup ;  Milk  punch 
syrup;  Champagne  syrup ;  Sherry  cobbler  syrup ;  Orange-flower  syrup; 
Cinnamon  syrup;  Ginger  beer  syrup;  How  to  clarify  sugar  syrups; 
Marshmallow,  balsam,  and  barberry  syrups 135 

Blackberry,  lemon,  camomile,  manna,  rhubarb,  saffron,  senna,  Seneca 
root,  licorice,  violet,  cinnamon,  egg,  and  cochineal  syrups;  Syrup  of 

ferrous  nitrate 136 

FUEL  AND  HEATING.  HEAT  INSULATION  (NON-CONDUCTING  COVER- 
INGS) : 

Necker's  kindling  compound ;  Economical  fuel ;  Fuel  from  coal  and 
rosin ;  King's  patent  fuel ;  Coal-dust  fuel  (Loiseau's  patent) ;  Blair's 
patent  fuel ;  Infusorial  earth  for  insulating  steam-pipes ;  Heat-insulating 

coverings  for  steam-pipes,  etc 137 

FUSIBLE  COLORS  USED  IN  PORCELAIN  PAINTING  : 

Brianchon's  peculiar  process  of  painting  glass,  porcelain,  etc.;  Preparing 
the  flux  ;  Ador  and  Abbadie's  zinciferous  metallic  colors;  Solution  of 
zinc  salt 137 

Bronze  color;  Chamois  color  (leather  yellow);  Gray,  green,  rose-red, 
golden  yellow,  Roman  yellow,  and  yellowish-green  colors;  Other 
colors ;  Black  (cobalt  and  manganese) ;  Black  (iridium) ;  Black  (re- 
fractory) ;  Blue  (azure) ;  Blue  (dark) ;  Blue  (shading) ;  Blue  (Turk- 
ish) ;  Bluish-green 138 

Bluish-red ;  Brown  (Bistre) ;  Brown  (dark) ;  Brown  (pale) ;  Brown 
(sepia) ;  Brownish-red ;  Chamois ;  Flesh  color ;  Gray  (chrome) ;  Gray 
(iridium);  Green  (dark) ;  Green  (grass) ;  Green  (shading)  .  .  .  139 

Lustre  colors  ;  Gold ;  Orange-red ;  Orange ;  Prismatic  colors ;  Purple 
(dark);  Purple  (pale) 140 

Purple  (rose-red) ;  Yellow  (dark) ;  Yellow  (lemon  color) ;  Yellow  (pale)  ; 
Yellow  (uranium) ;  Yellowish-red ;  Yellow  for  figures  and  landscapes; 

Yellow  for  landscapes ;  White  (covering) 141 

GLASS.  COMPOSITION  OF  THE  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF,  COLORS  FOR,  AND 
PROCESSES  FOR  ENAMELLING,  ENGRAVING,  GILDING,  SILVERING, 
PULVERIZING,  FILING,  BENDING,  ETC.  : 

Dark-green  bottle  glass 141 

Jahkel's  glass  for  champagne  bottles ;  Elli's  cryolite  glass ;  Bohemian 
crystal  glass  (free  from  lead) ;  Plate  glass  of  the  mirror  manufactory  at 
Aix  la  Chapelle ;  French  mirror  glass ;  Belgian,  Bohemian,  English, 
French,  and  Prussian  window  glass ;  Stein's  receipts  for  compositions 


xiv  CONTENTS. 

of  glass  as  actually  used  in  various  glass  works ;  Potash  crystal  glass; 
Bohemian  mirror  glass ;  Bohemian  chalk  glass  (ground  glass,  white 
concave  glass) ;  Bohemian  window  glass ;  French  mirror  glass ;  French 
soda  glass 142 

White  soda  window  glass ;  Semi-white  potash  window  glass ;  Bottle  glass  j 
Lead  crystal  glass;  Crown  glass  (Bontemp);  Crown  glass  (Guinaud) ; 
Flint  glass ;  Flint  glass  (Bontemp) ;  Compositions  for  strass  (according 
toDo;,c,ult-Wieland)  , 143 

Compositions  for  opaque  glass ;  Tin  enamel ;  Arsenical  enamel ;  Bone 
glass;  Opal  glass;  Alabaster  glass;  Compositions  for  colored  glass; 
Aventurine  glass  (according  to  Clemandot);  Blue  glass;  Sapphire- 
blue;  Azure-blue;  Golden  topaz  glass ;  Green  glass  ....  144 

Hyalite  glass;  Orange  glass;  Red  glass;  Red  with  copper;  Red  with 
gold ;  Turquoise  glass ;  Violet  glass ;  Yellow  glass ;  New  combination 
of  materials  for  the  production  of  glass;  Iridescent  glass;  Engraving 
on  glass  ;  Colored  designs  upon  glass ;  Glass  engraving  .  .  .  145 

To  pulverize  glass  ;  To  bend  glass  tubes 146 

GLAZES  FOR  EARTHENWARE  : 

Glazing  for  common  earthenware ;  English  glaze  for  earthenware ;  Glazes 
free  from  lead  for  earthenware ;  New  glazing  free  from  lead  for  kitchen 
utensils;  Very  fine  composition  for  white  glaze  (Feilmer's,  of  Berlin).  146 

White  glazes ;  To  give  earthenware  or  porcelain  a  marbled  or  granite  ap- 
pearance   147 

GLASS  AND  OTHER  SIGNS: 

To  etch  glass  (fine  and  coarse  grained) ;  Gilding  glass        ....  147 

Silvering  on  glass ;  Gilding  on  show  windows ;  Correcting  the  isinglass 
mixture;  Backing  the  inscription  on  show  windows;  Backing  glass 
signs  without  shades  ;  Backing  glass  signs  with  shades ;  With  mother- 
of-pearl  insertions ;  Mother-of-pearl  insertions ;  Backing  with  tin-foil  ; 
Transparent  glass  sign  (Child's  American  patent) ;  Sign-painting  .  .  148 

Japan  gold  size 149 

GLUE,  MANUFACTURE  OF: 

The  raw  material ;  Steeping  the  stock  in  lime 149 

Glue  boiling ;  Boiling  with  wet  waste ;  Boiling  with  dry  waste        .        .  150 

Clarifying  the  glue ;  To  color  the  glue  yellow ;  To  whiten  the  glue ;  Pour- 
ing into  the  boxes  (moulds)  .  .  . 151 

Taking  the  glue  from  the  moulds;  Ruthay's  new  process  of  making  glue 
from  waste  of  hides  and  skins  in  tanneries ;  Glue  from  waste  of  tanned 
leather 152 

Maclagan's  apparatus  and  process  for  manufacturing  glue  and  gelatine  ; 
Extracting  the  gelatine 153 

To  make  gelatine  from  glue;  Liquid  steam-glue;  Heller's  steam-glue; 
Cold  liquid  glue;  To  prepare  excellent  glue  which  will  hold  in  water; 
Good  furniture  glue ;  Glue  for  books ;  Glue  resisting  wet  and  moisture ; 
New  liquid  glue ;  Bone  glue 154 

Dupasquier's  process  of  preparing  bone  glue  as  a  substitute  for  isinglass  ; 
Selecting  and  bleaching  the  bones ;  Comminuting  the  bones ;  Immers- 
ing the  comminuted  bones  in  hydrochloric  acid 155 

Bleaching ;    Pouring  the  gelatine  into  moulds ;    Isinglass  (fish  glue) ; 

Printers' rollers  from  glue  and  glycerine;  Birdlime        ....  156 
HOUSEHOLD  AND  RURAL  ECONOMY: 

How  to  construct  a  table  fountain  ;  Pine  leaves  or  "  needles  "  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  hair,  feathers,  etc. ;   To  keep  milk  from  souring ;   Mass  for 
artificial  flowers  and  fruits;  Simple  process  for  preparing  potato  flour;    £•*" 
Roasted  malt  as  a  substitute  for  coffee;  Lemonade  powder;   Cham- 
pagne powder ;  Champagne  mixture 157 

Currant  champagne;  English  champagne;  Fruit  champagne;  Fruit 
wines ;  Apple  wine  (cider,  English  process;  Cider  (Normandy  process) ; 


CONTENTS.  xv 

Apple  champagne  (champagne  cider) ;  Birch  wine ;  Blackberry  wine  .  158 

Cherry,  currant,  damson,  elderberry,  ginger,  honey,  and  orange  wines; 
Orange  wine  with  lemon ;  Raisin  wine 159 

Raspberry  wine ;  Remedy  for  warts ;  Remedy  for  chilblains ;  Remedy  for 
corns ;  Ginger  beer ;  English  ginger  beer ;  Spruce  beer ;  English  spruce 
beer;  Root  beer 160 

To  prepare  fly  paper ;  Fly  paper  free  from  poison ;  Persian  insect  powder ; 
To  destroy  insects  and  worms  infesting  wall  paper,  etc. ;  To  preserve 
animal  skins;  To  preserve  stuffed  animals;  To  destroy  insects  infesting 
herbaria  and  collections  of  insects  ;  To  protect  woollen  goods  and  furs; 
Hager's  mixtures  for  preserving  cloth  and  furs 161 

Receipts  for  destroying  moths;  For  the  destruction  of  bed-bugs  and  other 
insects ;  For  the  "destruction  of  fleas  on  dogs,  horses,  and  cattle  ;  To  de- 
stroy cockroaches,  mosquitoes,  and  gnats ;  To  drive  away  ants  from 
closets,  etc. ;  To  drive  rats  away  from  a  building;  Phosphorous  paste 
for  destroying  rats  and  mice;  To  destroy  field-rats  and  mice;  London 
purple  for  the  destruction  of  insects  (Prof.  C.  V.  Riley) ;  Hager's  uni- 
versal composition  for  the  destruction  of  vermin  .  .  .  .  .162 

For  the  destruction  of  phylloxera  (vine  grub) ;  Simple  disinfectant;  Dis- 
infecting powder  of  Max  Friedrich 163 

Efficacious  disinfectants;  To  cleanse  lacquered  and  stained  articles  of 
wood ;  To  cut  and  pierce  rubber  corks ;  To  protect  stone  and  brick  walls 
from  moisture ;  Rosin  as  a  protection  against  moisture  in  walls ;  To  pre- 
vent rust  on  iron;  To  prevent  wooden  posts  from  rotting;  Excellent 
wash  for  wood  and  stone 164 

Brilliant  whitewash  closely  resembling  paint ;  Utilization  of  chicken 
feathers ;  Preservation  of  wooden  labels  ;  Collodion  for  plant  slips  ;  To 
destroy  stumps  of  trees ;  To  prepare  beef  tea 165 

To  disguise  the  taste  of  cod-liver  oil ;  Remedy  for  hoarseness  ;  Extract  of 
elder  blossoms ;  Belladonna  ointment;  Cantharides  ointment ;  Com- 
pound chloride  of  sulphur  ointment;  Compound  lead  ointment;  Creo- 
sote ointment ;  Elderberry  ointment ;  Elemi  ointment;  Gall-nut  oint- 
ment; Hemlock  ointment;  Iodide  of  lead  ointment ;  Iodide  of  mercury 
ointment ;  Iodide  of  potassium  ointment ;  Iodide  of  sulphur  ointment ; 
Lead  ointments ;  Litharge  ointment ;  Prussian  lead  ointment ;  Saxon 
lead  ointment 16€- 

White  lead  ointment;  Lead  cerate ;  Mercury  ointment;  Opium  ointment ; 
Pitch  ointment ;  Savin  ointment ;  Spermaceti  ointment;  Sulphur  oint- 
ments; Tar  ointment;  Tartar  emetic  ointment ;  Zinc  ointment ;  Am- 
monia liniment;  Camphor  liniment;  Compound  camphor  liniment; 
Lime  liniment;  Opium  liniment;  Soap  liniment;  Turpentine  liniment ; 
Verdigris  liniment;  Betton's  celebrated  cattle  liniment  (critical  oil); 
Turkish  balsam  for  fresh  wounds 167 

To  soften  hard  water ;  To  keep  tallow  and  lard  from  becoming  rancid  ;  To 
purify  rancid  butter  ;  To  purify  rancid  fat;  Dougal's  powder  for  puri- 
fying the  air  in  stables ;  To  remove  foul  air  from  wells ;  To  keep  ice 
without  an  ice-house 168 

To  keep  fruits  in  ice-houses  ;  Substitute  for  coffee ;  To  preserve  canvas, 
cordage,  etc. ;  Stove-polishing  compound  ;  Wiggen's  process  of  purify- 
ing lard  and  tallow;  Manure  salt  from  urine;  Solution  of  guano  for 
flowers;  Substitute  for  guano;  Manure  from  coal  ashes;  Manure  for 
turnips,  rutabagas,  etc. ;  Stockhard's  manure  mixture  for  vegetable 
gardens ;  Manure  powder  from  blood  ;  Manure  from  waste  animal  sub- 
stances   169 

ILLUMINATING  MATERIALS  : 

Incombustible  wicks ;  Metallic  wicks ;  Material  for  preparing  incombus- 
tible torches ;  Gas  from  cork ;  Naphtha  ether,  a  new  illuminating  mate- 
rial ;  Air-tight  and  flexible  tissue  for  dry  gas-meters  .  .  ,  .  170 


xvi  CONTENTS. 

To  detect  a  leak  in  a  gas-pipe ;  Improvement  in  dry  meters  ;  Apparatus 
for  manufacturing  illuminating  gas  from  ligroin  and  air  by  the  cold 
method;  Purification  of  illuminating  gas;  Preparation  of  wicks  for 
stearine  candles;  "Melanyl"  candles;  To  coat  tallow  candles  with  a 
hard  substance  which  will  not  crack 171 

To  color  paraffine,  wax,  stearic  acid,  etc.,  black  ;  Coloring  tallow ;  June- 
mann's  process  of  producing  white  and  hard  tallow  candles  burning 
with  a  large  flame  and  consuming  the  wick 172 

Fabrication  of  stearine  candles  without  the  use  of  presses  and  other  ex- 
pensive machinery ;  New  automatic  gas  lighter 173 

IMITATIONS,  SUBSTITUTES,  ETC.: 

Artificial  leather  for  lithographers'  rollers ;  Vegetable  ivory  ;  Substitute 
for  horn,  hard  rubber,  ivory,  etc. ;  Vegetaline ;  Substitute  for  linseed 
oil  and  oil  of  turpentine  in  preparing  paints ;  Substitute  for  bristles; 
Artificial  chalk  ;  Artificial  leather  (X.  Karchesky,  Belleville,  N.  J.)  .  174 

Artificial  leather  (Stierlin's  German  and  French  patent) ;  Artificial  wool  ; 
Substitute  for  meerschaum,  ivory,  etc.  .......  175 

Porous  substance  as  a  substitute  for  felt,  for  trays,  for  beer  glasses ;  Sub- 
stitute for  cast-iron,  stone,  clay,  and  cement;  To  make  heels  of  boots 
and  shoes,  buttons,  etc.,  from  pulverized  leather;  Hall's  substitute  for 
leather;  Preparation  of  leather  cloth ;  Micoud's  artificial  leather  .  .  176 

Artificial  slating  for  blackboards  and  school  slates ;  Artificial  ebony  ; 
Leather,  soap,  and  glue,  from  sea-weed  (algae);  Transparent  sea-weed 
leather;  Opaque  sea-weed  leather ;  Sea-weed  soap ;  Sea- weed  glue, sub- 
stitute for  animal  glue ;  Artificial  stone  for  sharpening  lead  and  slate 
pencils ;  To  convert  ordinary  agate  into  onyx 177 

Substitute  for  opaque  window  glass  (Chardon) ;  Porous  substance  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  blotters;  Flexible  mirrors ;  Artificial  whalebone  for  umbrella 
and  parasol  ribs,  busks  for  corsets,  etc. ;  Buffalo  skin  as  a  substitute  for 
horn(Rohn);  Substitute  for  tinfoil ;  Zeiodelite;  Imitations  of  mother- 
of-pearl  and  marble  with  glue  178 

Preparation  of  the  plates,  and  of  the  glue  solution;  Imitation  of  mother- 
of-pearl  veneers 179 

Pouring  the  colored  glue  solutions  upon  the  plates     .....  180 

Transferring  the  layer  of  glue  to  a  layer  of  gelatine;  Drying  and  detach- 
ing the  veneers ;  To  make  gelatine  foils 181 

Sorel's  substitutes  for  gutta-percha  and  caoutchouc ;  To  give  a  pearl  lustre 
to  various  articles;  Substitute  for  slate;  Bertolio's  substitute  for  meer- 
schaum   182 

To  prepare  ratan  to  be  used  in  the  manufacture  of  corsets  ;  Composition 
for  cane  heads,  gun  and  pistol  stocks,  etc. ;  Soren  Sorensen's  imitations 
of  leather;  For  soles,  heels,  and  insoles ;  Imitation  of  marble  for  plastic 
ornaments  and  picture  frames ;  To  dye  hard-nut  shell  buttons,  coal 
black,  and  brown 183 

To  dye  hard-nut  shell  buttons,  dark  brown,  gray  and  fancy  colors,  olive 

colors ;  For  coloring  with  aniline  colors ;  Blue,  red,  scarlet,  and  green  .  184 
INDIGO,  INDIGOTINE,  AND  ALIZARINE  : 

Crystallized  indigo  ;  Indigo  carmine  ;  Acetate  of  indigo    ....  184 

Indigo- violet ;  Indigo-carmine  in  the  form  of  extract ;  Kopp's  process  of 
gaining  indigotine  and  alizarine;  The  apparatus  .  .  .  .  .  185 

The  operation  ;  Artificial  alizarine ;  Coloring  artificial  alizarine,  dark  red 
and  rose  color 186 

Inspissation  for  red  ;  Aluminium  acetate  ;  Aluminium  hydrate;  Solution 
of  calcium  acetate  of  16°  B. ;  Printing  colors  for  red  and  violet  articles 
by  using  a  paste  containing  10  per  cent,  of  dry  dye-stuff,  very  dark  red ; 
Aluminium  nitrate;  Another  red  without  oil ;  Violet  printing  color; 
Violet  inspissation;  Geitner's  alizarine  liquor 187 


CONTENTS.  xvii 

INKS,  LITHOGRAPHIC,  PRINTING,  AND  WRITING  : 

To  make  a  good  printing  ink 187 

Description  and  illustration  of  apparatus  for  making  printing  ink    .        .  188 

Receipts  for  printing  inks 189 

Printing  ink  from  coal-tar;  Thick  printers'  varnish  with  coal-tar  varnish 
oil ;  Fine  printers'  ink  with  coal-tar  varnish  oil ;  Black  printing  colors 
patented  in  Germany  ;  New  process  of  preparing  printing  inks  ;  Print- 
ing and  stamping  ink  containing  iron;  Bronze  color  for  direct  printing 
upon  paper,  oil-cloth,  etc. 190 

Black  printing  ink  which  may  also  be  used  as  etching  ground ;  Prepara- 
tion of  tannin  black,  and  its  use  for  printing  ink  and  other  purposes; 
Lithographic  inks 191 

Autographic  ink  ;  Lithographic  printing  ink ;  English  lithographic  ink; 
Writing  inks 192 

Indestructible  inks  according  to  Traille,  P.  A.  Gaffard,  of  Paris,  and  Stark ; 
Stark's  patent  copying  ink;  Bottger's  copying  ink  ....  193 

Solid  inks  (ink  powders  and  ink  stones) ;  Karmarsch's  black  ink;  Reid's 
black  ink;  Lipowitz's  process  of  preparing  black  ink;  Brand's  black 
ink  ;  Booth's  excellent  black  ink;  Van  Moos'  good  black  ink  ;  Geiss- 
ler's  black  ink  ;  Jah n's  black  ink  ........  194 

Lewis'  black  ink  ;  lire's  black  ink ;  Schmidt's  ink  for  steel  pens ; 
Runge's  ink  for  steel  pens ;  Haenle's  ink  which  does  not  corrode  steel 
pens 195 

English  inks ;  Duncan,  Clockhart  &  Co.'s,  of  Edinburgh,  celebrated 
bluish-black  inks;  Ink  for  steel  pens;  Vanadium  ink  (Berzeli us' re- 
ceipt) ;  Alizarine  ink  ;  Eisner's  alizarine  ink  ;  Dubell's  alizarine  ink  .  196 

Winternitz's  alizarine  inks;  Receipt  with  oxalic  acid;  Copying  inks; 
Beau's  French  copying  ink  ;  Black  copying  inks  .....  197 

Alkaline  copying  ink  ;  Aniline  inks  of  various  colors ;  Indestructible  or 
permanent  inks;  Indestructible  inks  according  toBosse,  Kindt,  Bossin, 
and  Braconnot;  Excellent  blue  ink 198 

Red  inks ;  Carmine  ink  ;  Winckler's  durable  red  ink  ;  Violet  inks ;  Violet 
copying  and  violet  writing  inks;  Encre  violette  de  Rouen;  Solid  inks 
(cakes  and  powders) ;  Platzer's  ink  powder ;  Ink  powder  in  capsules 
(G.  J.  Colling  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.) ;  Ink  cake 199 

Marking  ink  ;  Ink  for  writing  on  glass  ;  Indestructible  ink  for  writing  on 
glass;  Red  and  black  ink,  not  acted  upon  by  acids,  for  marking  glass 
and  metal  labels ;  Stamping  ink  ;  Sympathetic  ink  ;  Incombustible  ink 
and  paper;  Indestructible  ink  for  stamping  cotton  and  woollen  goods 
which  are  to  be  bleached  with  chlorine;  Changing  writing  executed 
with  pale  ink  immediately  into  black 200 

Colored  sands  ;  Brush  for  marking  boxes,  etc. ;  Chemical  test  of  written 

documents  (Wm.  Thompson's,  Manchester,  Eng.) ;  Printers'  rollers        .  201 
JEWELLER'S  FOILS: 

Turnbull's  blue  foil;  Green,  red,  and  yellow  foils;  To  prepare  a'crimson 
fluid  for  Dutch  gold  or  paper ;  Yellow  fluid  for  foils;  Green  fluid  for 

Dutch  gold;  Process  of  producing  cameos 202 

LACQUERS  AND  VARNISHES: 

Manufacture  of  fat  copal  varnish  (Violette) 202 

Illustrations  of  apparatus  for  manufacturing  varnish        ....  203 

Spirit  lacquers  ;  Iron  lacquers  ;  Clarifying  varnish  ;  Filtering  varnishes  .  205 

Spirit  gold-lac  varnishes  ;  Gold-lac  varnish  with  shellac  and  other  resins; 
Gold  varnish  without  lac  ;  Gold-lac  varnishes  with  oil  of  turpentine 
and  oil  of  lavender,  with  and  without  linseed-oil  varnish  .  .  .  206 

Walton's  process  of  preparing  linseed-oil  varnish  ;  Several  universal  fur- 
niture varnishes ;  Balloon  varnish 207 

Copal  varnish  with  spirit  of  sal-ammoniac  ;  Chinese  varnish  ;  Incombus- 
tible varnish  for  wood;  Varnish  for  wood  not  acted  upon  by  boiling 
2 


xviii  CONTENTS. 

water ;  Varnish  for  earthenware  vessels  ;  Japanese  transparent  lac  var- 
nish ;  Japanese  black  lac  varnishes ;  Varnish  for  fans,  fancy  boxes, 
etc. ;  Varnish  for  umbrellas ;  Black  varnish  for  tinsmiths  ;  Gold  var- 
nish on  iron  ;  Pitch  varnish  for  buildings 20£ 

Spirit  varnish  for  violins  and  other  musical  instruments;  Black  var- 
nish for  zinc;  Parisian  wood  varnish  ;  Furniture  varnish  ;  To  lacquer 
flowers ;  White  unchangeable  lacquer  for  leather ;  To  polish  carved 
work 209 

French  polish  ;  Parisian  bronze  lacquer;  Black  polish  on  iron  and  steel ; 
A  new  varnish  (German  patent) ;  Parisian  bookbinders'  lacquer ;  Ex- 
cellent glass-like  varnish  ;  Varnish  for  wood  naturally  colored  or 
stained  ;  Colorless  varnish ;  French  leather  lacquer  ....  210 

Cheap  lacquer  for  harness  and  carriage  tops;  Lacquer  for  drawings; 
Transparent  lacquer  for  closing  bottles  ;  Tar  varnish  ;  Polishing  of 
wood  ;  Elastic  Jacquer;  Black  harness  lacquer ;  Parchment  fluid  ;  To 
provide  bars  of  spring  steel  with  a  coating  not  acted  upon  by  acids, 
alkalis,  chlorine,  and  steam;  Aluminium  palmitate  and  its  uses  in 
different  branches  of  industry 211 

New  method  of  preparing  fat  lacquer  and  varnish,  patented  in  Germany 
by  Zimmermann  and  Holtzwich;  Light  copal  varnish  with  coal-tar 
varnish  oil ;  Light  Parisian  varnish  with  coal-tar  varnish  oil ;  Light 
varnish  for  lacquering  photographic  negatives ;  English  method  of 
varnishing  coaches ;  Pumicing 212 

Puttying,  saturating  the  panels  with  oil ;  Laying  on  the  ground ;  Pumicing 
the  ground  ;  Laying  on  the  paint;  First,  second,  and  third  pumicings 
of  the  paint ;  Laying  on  the  lac  varnish          ......  213 

.Polishing  the  lacquer;  Ordinary  body-carriage  lacquer;  Quick-drying 

body  copal  varnish  ;  Neil's  carriage  lacquers 214 

LEATHER,  TANNING  AND  DYEING,  INCLUDING  FURS,  ETC.  : 

New  tanning  process ;  Quick  tanning  process  ;  Manufacture  of  calf-kid  in 
Philadelphia  . 214 

To  depilate  hides  ;  Curriers'  black  gloss  ;  Heating  the  liquor  in  tanning; 
Heinzerling's  quick  method  of  tanning  .......  215 

Boegel's  process  of  quick  tanning ;  Jungschlager's  process  of  quick  tan- 
ning ;  New  process  of  depilating  hides ;  To  prepare  transparent  leather; 
To  preserve  and  water-proof  skins .  216 

To  prepare  calf  leather  with  a  white  flesh-side  smooth  as  a  mirror ;  To 
preserve  the  yelks  of  eggs  used  in  tawing  glove  leather ;  To  preserve 
hair  in  a  tannery  ;  To  improve  hides  and  skins  ;  Dyeing  leather;  Azure^ 
on  tawed  white  leather;  Black  on  leather;  Blue  on  leather;  Red  on 
morocco ;  Saffron-yellow  on  leather  ;  Dyeing  of  chamois  skins  ;  Black, 
green,  gray,  tan,  yellow,  and  yellowish-brown  ;  Dyes  for  ordinary 
tawed  leather ;  Blue,  camel-brown,  chestnut-brown  .  .  .  .217 

Coffee-brown,  flesh  color,  garnet,  green,  lilac,  olive-green,  orange,  rose 
color,  soarlet,  violet,  and  dark  and  pale  yellow ;  Dyes  for  kid  leather, 
azure,  black,  brown,  English  gray,  French  green 218 

Gray,  gray-brown,  gray-green,  gray  stone  color,  green  stone  color,  light 
and  dark  green,  olive  and  orange-brown,  orange-red,  pensee,  or  violet- 
blue,  silver  gray,  straw  color;  Apparatus  and  process  for  dyeing  and 
patterning  animal  skins ;  To  dye  rabbit  skins  black ;  To  dye  sheep  skins 
brown 219 

Process  of  dyeing  naturally  white  skins,  or  skins  with  naturally  white 
points,  various  shades  of  brown,  leaving  the  points  white ;  Imitation  of 
sable  skins;  To  protect  furs  against  moths;  To  tan  linen,  hempen,  and 
cotton  fabrics ;  To  give  leather  the  smell  of  Russia  leather  .  .  .  220 
LIQUORS  AND  BEVERAGES:  BEER,  BRANDY,  GIN,  WHISKEY,  WINES, 
ETC.  : 

Beer  brewing;  Fabrication  of  malt ;  Steeping ;  Germinating  (couching)  j 


CONTENTS.  xlx 

Kiln-drying ;  Preparation  of  the  liquor  containing  the  dextrine  and 
sugar  (mashing) .         .         .         .  221 

Boiling  the  wort  with  hops  ;  Cooling;  Fermentation  ;  Improved  brewing 
process;  New  brewing  process;  Clarifying  beer;  Flaxseed  pulp  for  clar- 
ifying beer  .  222 

Brewers'  pitch;  Brown  brewers' pitch ;  Hop  pitch;  Glaze  for  beer  bar- 
rels; Glaze  of  Prof.  Artetnus;  Testing  beer  for  foreign  bitter  sub- 
stances; Pure  beer 223 

Acid  mixtures;  Petroleum-ether;  Benzole;  Chloroform;  Ammoniacal 
shakings;  Beer  wort;  Wormwood;  Benzole  and  chloroform;  Marsh 
rosemary  (sedum  palustre) ;  Bog  beau;  Marsh  trefoil;  Quassia;  Col- 
chicum  seeds  ............  224 

Indian  berries  (cocculi  Indici),  petroleum  ether,  and  benzole ;  Colocynths ; 
Willow  bark;  Strychnine  ;  Atropin  ;  Hyoscyamin  ;  Aloes  .  .  .  225 

Gentian  root;  Determination  of  glycerine  in  dark  and  light  beers;  Al- 
cohol and  compressed  yeast  from  uncrushed  cereals  without  the  nse  of 
steam-pressure;  To  convert  alcohol  of  70  per  cent,  into  !)(»  per  cent,  in 
the  cold  way;  To  purify  alcohol  obtained  from  beets  and  molasses  .  226 

To  purify  alcohol ;  To  prepare  absolute  alcohol ;  Manufacture  of  cognac; 
Artificial  cognacs  ;  Du'ch  method  of  distilling  and  manufacture  of 
compressed  (dry)  yeast  ..........  227 

Mashing;  Setting  (Anstellen) 228 

Clarifying  the  wash ;  Receipt  for  Holland  gin;  Rum  (Fagon  rum);  To 
destroy  fusil  oil  (amyl  alcohol) 229 

To  purify  alcohol  and  liquors ;  To  remove  the  taste  of  the  barrel  from 
whiskey ;  Wines;  Bordeaux,  Burgundy,  Champagne;  Artificial  Cham- 
pagnes; Champagne  liqueur;  Chandon  et  Moet  (green  seal);  Louis' 
Roderer  (green  and  bronze  seal) ;  Heidesick  et  cie  (sealed  with  tinfoil) .  230 

LembergGeldermann  etDeittz  (sealed  with  tinfoil)  ;  Schneider;  Fleur  de 
Sillery ;  Jacquesson  et  fils;  Madeira;   Malaga;   Essence  de  Goudron; 
Port  wine ;  To  improve  wine  must ;  Remedy  for  ropiness  or  viscidity  of 
wines  ;  To  remove  the  taste  of  the  barrel  from  wine        ....  231 
LUBRICANTS  FOR  MACHINES,  WAGONS,  ETC.  : 

Adhesive  grease  for  machine  belts  ;  Grease  for  water-proofing  leather      .  231 

To  make  kid  leather  soft ;  Lubricant  for  industrial  purposes  ;  Pulverulent 
lubricant  for  axles,  etc. ;  Doulon's  caoutchouc  lubricant;  Patent  wagon- 
grease  from  rosin  oil  soap  ;  Blue  patent  grease;  Yellow  patent  grease; 
Black  patent  grease;  Patent  palm-oil  wagon  grease;  Lubricant  from 
paraffine  residues  ;  Consistent  machine  oil 232 

Lubricant  for  belts ;  French's  machine  grease;  Lubricant  for  car  axles  ; 
Belgian  wagon  grease ;  Excellent  carriage  grease  ;  Lubricant  from  oil 
residues;  Pyroleine  (lubricant  for  machinery) ;  Thinly  fluid  pyroleine ; 
Thickly  fluid  pyroleine '  .  .  .  .233 

Metalline  ;  New  lubricant  for  machines  from  sea-weed  (solid  and  liquid); 
Lubricating  oil  for  astronomical  instruments;  Vulcan  oil,  foi;  spindles, 
for  carding  machines,  for  hydraulic  motors;  Machine  oil  from  coal-tar 
varnish  oil ;  Lubricant  for  carriages  from  coal-tar  varnish  oil ;  Persoz's 
patent  wagon  grease 234 

Oil  for  watchmakers ;  Very  fine  lubricant  for  clocks  and  watches ;  To 

test  the  fitness  of  oils  for  lubricating  watches  and  clocks        .        .        .  235 
MARINE  GLUE  : 

Hard  marine  glue  ;  Elastic  marine  glue ;  Marine  glue  for  damp  walls      .  235 
MATCHES  : 

Swedish  matches  ;  Striking  surface  of  Swedish  matches  ;  Matches  with- 
out sulphur;  Inflammable  compounds  (Schwarz)  ;  Inflammable  com- 
pound without  phosphorus ;  Parlor  matches  ;  Colored  parlor  matches  .  23G 

Anti-phosphorus  matches;  Matches  inextinguishable  by  the  wind; 
Matches  without  phosphorus ;  Amorces  d'Allumettes  ;  Nickle's  process 
of  preparing  an  amorphous  phosphorus  from  the  ordinary  article  .  237 


xx  CONTENTS. 

METAL  INDUSTRY: 

To  harden  cast-iron  ;  To  give  iron  articles  a  brilliant  lustre  and  silvery 
appearance ;  To  restore  burnt  cast-steel ;  To  make  steel  so  soft  that  it 
can  be  worked  like  copper;  Welding  steel  to  cast-iron  ;  Hardening  and 
welding  compounds;  Hardening  compound;  Welding  compound  for 
welding  wrought-iron  to  wrought-iron  ;  Welding  compound  to  weld 
steel  to  wrought-iron  at  a  red  heat;  To  weld  wrought-iron  to  wrought- 
iron  at  a  white  heat 238 

Hardening  compound  to  make  wrought-iron  very  hard  ;  Welding  cast- 
steel  ;  To  harden  files  and  other  steel  instruments  ;  To  re-sharpen  files  .  239 

Dr.  Hartmann's  hardening  compound  for  thin  steel ;  New  process  of 
hardening  gun-barrels;  To  harden  steel  in  sealing-wax;  Hardening 
water;  Poncelet's  fluids  for  hardening  steel  articles  ;  New  case-harden- 
ing compound ;  To  obtain  smooth  castings ;  To  harden  saws  and 
springs  .............  240 

To  convert  iron  into  steel  (J.  H.  Wilson,  of  Liverpool) ;  Hard  silver  ;  Mal- 
leable brass ;  Very  tenacious  brass ;  Steel  wire  for  musical  instru- 
ments (Webster  &  Horsfall) ;  To  weld  copper;  New  process  of  pre- 
paring malleable  nickel  241 

To  obtain  dense  and  flexible  copper  castings  ;  To  obtain  copper  steel ;  Si- 
licium  ;  To  protect  lead  pipes;  To  protect  iron  from  rust ;  To  protect 
lightning-rods,  metal  roofs,  etc.,  from  rust;  To  protect  M7ire,  iron,  and 
steel  from  rust 242 

Cleaning  guns  with  petroleum  ;  To  protect  wrought-iron  bridges  from 
rust ;  Staining  metals  ;  Blue  stain  on  iron  and  steel ;  Gray  on  steel  and 
iron 243 

Black  ;  To  stain  iron,  gun-barrels,  etc.,  brown  ;  English  process  of 
staining  gun-barrels  brown,  light  brown,  and  light  yellowish-brown  ; 
Lacquering  of  sheet  metal;  Glazing 244 

Glazing:   Green,  yellow,  blue,  chamois,  red-brown;   White  lac  color; 

Lilac  or  violet;  Black  lacquer;  Blue  or  steel  glaze;  Red  glaze     .        .  245 
MUSTARDS  : 

To  prepare  ordinary  mustard ;  Frankfort  and  wine  mustards ;  Lenor- 
mand's  method  of  preparing  mustard 245 

Moutardede  Maille;  Moutarde  &  la  Ravigotte;  Sour  Diisseldorf  mustard; 
Soye's  method  of  preparing  mustard  ;  Aromatic  and  English  mustards  ; 
Black  and  compound  mustard  powders;  Compound  English  mustard 
powder;  Compound  black  mustard  powder;  Very  fine  table-mustard     .  246 
OILS  AND  FATS — ANIMAL,  VEGETABLE,  AND  MINERAL: 

Purification  of  mineral  oils;  Uses  of  the  residues  in  the  manufacture  of 
shale  oil ;  French  process  of  cleansing  vegetable  fat  oils ;  Manufacture 
of  castor  oil  (Brosius&  Co.);  Baeder,  Adamson  &  Co.'s  process  .  .  247 

Manufacture  of  neat's-footoil  ;  To  prepare  Chinese  drying  oil ;  To  solidify 
petroleum  and  other  mineral  oils ;  Rosin  oil  and  its  uses  .  .  .  248 

To  prepare  pure  naphthaline ;  Vaseline  or  cosmoline        ....  249 

New  process  of  purifying  paraffine ;  To  purify  and  bleach  fat  of  bones 
extracted  with  benzine,  and  make  it  available  for  the  manufacture  of 
soap  ;  Process  of  gaining  glycerine 250 

Corn  oil  from  corn  mash  ;  Oil  from  acid  tar  ;  To  refine  cotton-seed  oil ;  To 
purify  train  oil ;  To  purify  illuminating  oil ;  To  purify  turbid  or  impure 
poppy-seed  oil ;  To  purify  animal  oils  ...  ...  251 

Bottger's  simple  process  of  making  commercial  petroleum  clear  as  water 
without  distillation  ;  Oil  from  sunflower  seed  ;  Macassar  oil  ;  To  pre- 
pare oil  used  in  pumicing  wood  ;  Cowper's  process  of  deodorizing  coal- 
tar,  rosin  oil,  etc.;  To  detect  rape-seed  oil  and  all  oils  derived  from 
crucifera3 ;  To  detect  rape-seed  oil  in  other  fat  oils 252 

Preparation  and  uses  of  paraffine 253 

Belmontine  and  Sherwood  oil ;  A  new  oil  from  California;  To  distinguish 
light  oils  from  crude  petroleum  from  light  tar  oils 254 


CONTENTS.  xxi 

Practical  purification  of  crude,  heavy  wood-tar  oil  and  preparation  of 
crude  wood-tar  creosote ;  Separating  and  purifying  fats  ....  255 

To  remove  sulphuric  acid  and  sulphur  adhering  to  mineral  oils  after  re- 
fining (Perutz) ;  Coal-tar  varnish  oil;  Process  of  producing  heavy  coal- 
tar  oil  in  England 256 

Manufacture  of  yellow  shoemakers'  wax  from  purified  coal-tar  oils; 
Manufacture  of  blacksmiths'  pitch  from  coal-tar ;  Testing  oils  (Mau- 

mene) 257 

OIL-PAINTINGS  :  How  TO  CLEANSE,  PACK,  AND  VARNISH  THEM,  AND 
TO  RESTORE  GILT  WORK  : 

To  cleanse  oil-paintings         ...  257 

Action  of  water,  olive  oil,  or  butter:  Wood-ash,  potash,  soap,  spirit  of 
wine,  oil  of  turpentine,  oil  of  lemon,  and  oils  of  lavender  and  rose- 
mary, upon  paintings 258 

To  remove  a  painting  from  the  old  canvas  and  transfer  it  to  a  new;  How 
to  pack  oil-paintings  for  transportation ;  To  paste  an  oil-painting  on 
wood ;  To  cleanse  beef-gall  to  be  used  as  a  varnish  on  paintings ; 
Cleansing  and  lacquering  of  oil-paintings  .  ...  .  .  .  259 

To  cleanse  and  renovate  the  gold  and  framework  of  old  altars  ;  For  cleans- 
ing the  framework  from  dirt ;  To  repair  lustre  gilding  on  altars ;  To 

restore  silver  on  altars  and  tabernacles 260 

PAINTS  AND  PIGMENTS.  GRINDING  AND  MIXING  COLORS.  GRAINING. 
IMITATION  OF  MARBLES.  PAINTS  AND  WASHES  FOR  VARIOUS 
PURPOSES,  ETC. 

Grinding  colors  ;  Brushes 260 

Graining  oak,  mahogany,  and  rosewood 261 

Satinwood,  maple,  and  walnut;  Imitation  of  marble;  Green  marble; 
Dove-colored  marble ;  Receipts  for  colors,  American  green,  apple-green, 
aurora,  azure-blue,  blue  (cornflower),  bluish-white,  Bremen  green, 
chamois,  cherry-red,  chestnut-brown,  crimson,  enamel-white,  flax-gray, 
golden-yellow,  beautiful  golden-yellow,  grass-green,  hazel-yellow,  jon- 
quil, and  lemon  color 262 

Light-gray,  lilac,  mahogany,  oak,  olive-green,  sea-green,  silver-gray, 
straw,  sulphur,  violet — dark,  medium,  light,  very  light,  bluish — and 
walnut — dark,  light,  and  very  light — colors ;  Paints  for  various  pur- 
poses; Flexible  paint;  New  paint  for  floors,  stone,  wood,  and  brick 
work;  Water-proof  paint ;  Paint  suitable  for  vessels,  submarine  work, 
etc 263 

Cheap  and  durable  paint  for  brick  work  ;  To  prepare  a  zinc  wash  for 
rooms;  Durable  paint  for  tin  roofs;  White  paint  for  metallic  sur- 
faces: Green  paint  for  articles  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  weather, 
such  as  doors,  shutters,  etc.;  Universal  paint;  Paint  for  outside  walls  ; 
Paint  which  resists  all  moisture,  for  wood  or  stone;  Cheap  white  paint 
for  outside  work  ;  Red  wash  for  brick  floors  and  pavements ;  To  prevent 
disintegration  in  stone  work 264 

For  marble ;  For  sandstone ;  To  make  sail-cloth  pliable,  durable,  and 
water-proof;  Swedish  paint  for  wood  work;  Paint  for  constructions  of 
iron;  Parafline  paint ;  Quickly  drying  oil-paint;  Paint  for  roofs;  Paint 
on  wood  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  weather 265 

Water-proof  paint  for  metal ;  Coating  for  blackboards ;  To  protect  the 
bottoms  of  ships  and  other  articles  under  water ;  Dryer  for  oil  colors 
and  varnish ;  To  prepare  dryers ;  Patent  dryer ;  Dryer  for  zinc  paint ; 
Drying  oil ;  To  paint  tiles  red ;  Pigments ;  Black ;  Lampblack  .  .  266 

Frankfort  black;  Carbon  from  peach  stones;  Ivory  black;  Brunswick 
black  ;  Black  from  coal  ashes  and  blood ;  Berlin  blue ;  Mountain  blue; 
Ultramarine  (artificial) ;  Robiquet's  artificial  ultramarine  .  ,  .  267 

Carmine;  Carmine  lake;  Florentine  lake;  Green  borate  of  copper  for 
oil  and  porcelain  painting ;  Chrome-green ;  Chrome-green  for  painting ; 


xxii  CONTENTS. 

Innoxious  green  color ;  Mineral  green ;  Neuwied  green ;  Paris  green  or 
Scheele's  green;  Schweinfurth  green  as  made  in  Schweinfurth  .  .  268 

Verdigris;  Indigo  carmine;  Chrome-red;  Cassel  yellow;  American 
chrome-yellow 269 

Baltimore  chrome-yellow ;  French  chrome-yellow  (Spooner's) ;  Paris 
chrome-yellow  ;  Naples  yellow  (various  shades) ;  Patent  yellow ;  Van- 
dyke red  ;  Innoxious  colors  for  painting  toys  ......  270 

Colors  which,  on  account  of  the  poisonous  qualities,  should  not  be  used 
for  painting  toys  or  in  coloring  articles  of  food ;  Artists'  colors  and 
for  restoring  pictures ;  Kremnitz  or  Venetian  white ;  Light  and  dark 
ochres 271 

Light  and  dark  burnt  ochres ;  Sienna ;  Burnt  sienna ;  Umber ;  Cologne 
earth ;  Ivory  black ;  Parisian  blue ;  Cinnabar ;  Naples  yellow  ;  Fine 
Vienna  lake ;  Minium  ;  Ultramarine ;  Verona  earth  ;  Cobalt  blue  and 
brown  Munich  lake;  Water  colors;  Deep  black;  Blue;  Indigo  blue 


Green ;  Red  ;  Violet  blue ;  Yellow ;  White ;  Sap  red 
Painting    with    sympathetic  colors ;    Preparation  of  the  colors  used 
Purple  and  rose  red ;  Yellow,  Green,  and  blue  ;  Painters'  cream 


272 
273 


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PAPER  AND  PAPER  MATERIALS,  MANUFACTURE,  STAINING,  ETC.,  GLASS, 
SAND,  AND  EMERY  PAPER: 

Preparation  of  the  different  kinds  of  straw  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
paper 273 

Corn  leaves  and  stalks ;  Oats,  barley,  wheat,  and  rye  straws ;  Process  of 
gaining  fibrous  substances  from  different  plants;  Transformation  of 
woolly  fibre ;  Paper  for  documents,  checks,  etc. ;  Improved  cigarette 
paper ;  Safety  paper  (to  prevent  erasures) 274 

Cork  paper  (H.  Felt  &  Co.  patent) ;  Wrapping  paper  for  silverware :  Prep- 
aration of  parchment  paper;  Water-proof  paper;  Peterson's  water- 
proof paper ;  Carbolic  acid  paper 275 

Two  new  varieties  of  preserving  paper;  Plastic  pasteboard  for  surgical 
bandages;  Preparation  of  tracing  paper,  tracing  linen,  and  trans- 
parent packing  paper ;  Photo-lithographic  transfer  paper  and  transfer- 
color  belonging  to  it;  Writing,  copying,  and  drawing  paper  which  can 
be  washed ;  Tracing  paper ;  Transfer  paper ;  Tar  paper  .  .  .  276 

To  prepare  leather  waste  for  use  in  the  manufacture  of  paper ;  Iridescent 
paper ;  Colored  paper  for  tying  up  bottles ;  Pouget-Maisonneuve's 
electro-chemical  telegraph  paper ;  Amianthus  paper ;  To  water-proof 
cylinders  of  pasteboard;  To  produce  enamelled  writing  surfaces  on 
pasteboard  and  paper ;  Imitation  of  mother-of-pearl  on  paper  .  .  277 

To  make  paper  transparent;  Emery  paper  (Edwards'  apparatus);  Water- 
proof emery  paper 278 

Stains  in  coloring  paper  for  artificial  flowers ;  Stains  for  glazed  papers    .  279 

Stains  for  morocco  papers ;  Stains  for  satin  papers 280 

How  to  split  a  sheet  of  paper 281 

PERFUMERY,  AROMATIC  VINEGARS,  COSMETICS,  EXTRACTS,  HAIR  OILS, 
POMADES,  POWDERS,  WASHES,  FUMIGATING  ARTICLES,  ETC.  : 

Extraction  of  perfume  from  flowers;  Manufacture  of  perfumery;  Eau 
des  Alpes;  Eau  de  Cologne  (Otto's,  Thillaye's,  and  Wagner's);  Eau 
de  lavande  ambra  ;  Eau  de  Paris  ;  Empress  Eugenie's  nosegay ;  Esprit 
de  patchouli ;  Esprit  de  rose  triple ;  Esprit  de  toilet  Francaise  .  .  232 

Ess.  bouquet;  Extrait  violet;  Extract  of  iris ;  Jockey  club  ;  Heliotrope; 
Millefleur ;  Moss  rose  and  musk  extracts ;  New  garden  nosegay ;  New 
mown  hay,  Styrax,  Tonka  bean,  and  vanilla  extracts  ....  283 

Victoria  extract;  West  End  and  white  rose  bouquets;  Ylang-ylang;  Am- 
bergris, Aromatic,  Clover,  Jasmine,  Lavender,  Musk,  Orange-blossorn, 
Rose,  and  toilette  vinegars  .........  284 

Vanilla  vinegar;  Vinaigre  de  Beaute;  Vinaigre  des  Dames;  Vinaigre 
aromatique  de  J.  V.  Bully;  Vinaigre  d'Hebe  (to  remove  freckles); 


CONTENTS.  xxiii 

Cucumber  essence;   Cucumber  milk;  Lily  essence;  Narval  bouquet; 
Moss  rose  essence ;  Odeur  fin  national 285 

Tea  rose  essence;  Violettede  Bois;  White  rose  essence;  Hair  oils;  Flower 
oil ;  Good  and  cheap  hair  oils ;  Hamilton's  hair  oil ;  Huile  antique  a  la 
Bergamotte;  Huile  antique  a  1'Heliotrope  ;  Huile  a  la  1'Heliotrope  .  286 

Huile  a  1'Oeillet ;  Huile  antique  a  la  Vanille ;  Huile  de  Millefleurs  et  de 
Pot-pourri;  Pot-pourri  oil;  Macassar  oil ;  Sweet-scented  oil;  Lime-juice 
and  glycerine  h;iir  oil;  Pomades;  Creme  Celeste;  Creme  Cristallisee ; 
Glycerine  balsam ;  Ice  pomade;  Neroli  pomade 287 

Pomade  (Wagner);  Pomade  (Winterberg);  Pomade  a  la  Duchesse;  Po- 
made au  bouquet ;  Pomade  divine ;  Red  and  rose  pomades ;  Stick  and 
beard  pomatum;  Held's  beard  pomatums;  Hungarian  moustache 
pomatum;  Stick  pomades ;  Hair  restorers,  tonics,  washes,  etc,  .  .  288 

American  shampooing  liquid  to  promote  the  growth  of  hair;  Bandolines; 
Bay-rum  hair  tonic;  Buhlin^en's  hair  tonic;  Cheap  and  efficacious  hair 
tonic;  Cheap  hair  wash;  Eau  de  lustre  (for  dressing  the  hair);  Glycer- 
ine wash  ;  Rosemary  hair  wash ;  Wash  to  remove  dandruff;  Hair  dyes ; 
Brown  hair  dye;  Eau  de  Chine  pour  Noircir  les  Cheveux  .  .  .  289 

Eau  Lajeune ;  Hager's  innoxious  hair  dye  as  a  substitute  for  lead  prepa- 
rations ;  Innoxious  hair  dye ;  Turkish  hair  dye ;  Depilatory  compounds ; 
Sulphhydrate  of  sodium;  Cosmetic  and  medicated  waters;  Anhalt 
water ;  Barege  waters ;  Napoleon's  bath 290 

"  Bretfeld  water ; "  Cascarilla  water ;  Creole  water;  Eau  Athenienne ;  Eau 
de  1'Imperatrice ;  Eau  des  Odalisques;  Eau  des  Princesses;  English 
honey  water;  Florida  water;  Held's  cosmetic  washes  ....  29 J 

Kummerfehlt  water;  Cosmetic  powders,  rouges,  etc. ;  Bran  of  almonds; 
Cosmetic  wash  powder ;  Flour  of  almonds ;  Held's  washing  powder  for 
the  hands;  Oriental  rouge;  Paris  powder;  Rouge;  Vinaigre  rouge; 
White  or  pearl  powder;  Augustin's  cosmetic  wash;  Copland's  aqua 
cosmetica  ;  Flacon  Generateur  Universe!  des  Cheveux  de  Madame  S.  A. 
Allen;  Fumigating  articles ;  Black  fumigating  pastils  ....  292 

Fumigation  with  chlorine;  Fumigating  essence;  Fumigating  pastils; 
Fumigating  spirits ;  Imperial  fumigating  powder;  Medicated  fumigat- 
ing pastils;  Iodine  pastils;  Stramonium  pastils;  Tar  pastils;  Opium 
pastils ;  Oriental  fumigating  balsam 293 

Paris,  perfumed  and  white  fumigating  pastils 294 

PHARMACEUTICAL  PREPARATIONS  : 

Artificial  Karlsbad  water ;  Artificial  koumiss;  Balm  of  Gilead;  Balsam 
of  horehound  for  colds  and  asthma;  Bitter  elixir;  Eland's  female  pills; 
Blistering  ointment;  Blume's  remedy  for  spavin,  etc.;  Camphor  ice; 
Cheltenham  salts;  Cod-liver  oil  and  iodide  of  iron  .  .294 


form  (Vulpius  formula) ;  lodoform  pencils;  Aromatic  balsam        .        .  295 
Locatelli's  balsam   for  wounds  and  ulcers;   Soap  balsam   for  sprains; 
Gelatine  capsules  for  medicinal  purposes;  English  plaster;  Malt  ex- 
tract;  Malt  extract  with  iron,  with  lime,  with  quinine,  with  pepsin, 
and  with  iodide  of  iron;  Neutral  citrate  of  magnesium  (Cornelis);  Neu- 
tralizing the  taste  of  cod-liver  oil;  New  American  patent  medicines; 
Phosphorole       ............  296 

Fluid  hydrastis ;  Lacto-pepsin ;  Thermaline ;  Oleum  aromaticum  compos- 
tium  (spice  oil  for  kitchen  use);  Opodeldoc;  Pepsin  wine  with  malt 
(Ernst  Schmidt,  of  Lille);  Plastic  bandage;  Simple  and  compound 
lead  plasters;  Preparation  of  sticking  plaster;  New  sticking  plaster  by 
Dr.  A.  Hewson  ;  Galbanum  and  saffron  plaster;  Saffron  plaster  .  .  297 
Soap  plaster;  Powdered  camphor;  Buchner's  antarthritic  paper;  English 
autarthritic  paper 298 


xxiv  CONTENTS. 

PHOTOGRAPHY  : 

Alcoholic  solution  of  gelatine;  Alkaline  gelatine  developer;  Chloride  of 
silver  find  gelatine  emulsion ;  Claudet's  instantaneous  positive  paper; 
Cleansing  mixture  lor  glass  plates 298 

Cleansing  fluid  for  glass  plates;  Clear  caoutchouc  solutions;  Damson's 
tannin  plates;  Receipt  for  the  collodion  cotton  ;  Collodion  ;  Solution  of 
tannin;  Developer  for  gelatine  plates  (Mottu,  of  Amsterdam);  Davanne's 
intensifier ;  H.  W.  Vogel's  developing  solution  of  oxalate  of  iron ;  Direc- 
tion for  calculating  focus  distances  for  enlarging  pictures  .  .  .  299 

Email  photographs;  Gelatine  emulsions  (Abney);  Glace  or  enamelled 
photographs;  Gold  and  fixing  baths;  Toning  bath  ....  300 

New  intensifying  bath  for  gelatine  negatives;  New  developer  for  bromide 
of  silver  dry  plates;  New  method  of  preparing  emulsion  ;  New  photo- 
printing  receipts;  Preliminary  preparation;  Chrome-gelatine  layer; 
Fixing  solution  ;  Fluid  for  drawing  off  negatives ;  Painting  the  operat- 
ing-room .............  301 

Petschler's  new  dry  method  of  preparing  plates;  Photo-diaphanie,  or 
process  of  transferring  photographs  together  with  the  albumen  layer 
on  glass,  porcelain,  etc.;  Photo-emulsions;  Improvements  by  H.  W. 
Vogel;  Photo-printing  without  a  press 302 

Photographic  process  with  phosphorescent  substances;  Photographic  re- 
production .  303 

Platinotypy  ;  Precipitation  of  gold  from  old  toning  baths;  Rapid  method  ; 
Sensitive  collodion  ...........  304 

Developers  for  children  and  for  adults ;  Rapid  collodion  process  by  Bor- 
linetto;  Neutral  silver  bath;  Developing  bath  ;  Fixing  bath;  Regaining 
silver  from  residues  of  gelatine  emulsions;  Removing  the  negative  layer 
from  the  glass  plate ;  Reproduction  of  photo-negatives  ....  30o 

Sensitive  collodion  emulsion;  Sensitive  photo-paper;  Simple  and  quick 
process  of  preparing  pyrogallic  acid;  Sutton's  new  developer-;  Sui ton's 
weak  silver-bath  for  albuminized  paper;  Toning  bath  with  calcium 
chloride  and  sodium  acetate  by  Parkinson ;  Transfer  paper  with  col- 
lodio-chloride  of  silver;  Various  practical  receipts;  Collodion  for  hot 
weather .306 

Collodion  for  outside  work  ;  Developer ;  Silver  bath  ;  Developer  for  land- 
scapes; After  developer ;  Good  intensifying  bath  ;  Solution  for  prepar- 
ing paper;  Silver  bath;  Developer;  Fixing  bath;  Negative  lacquer 
with  castor  oil;  Various  receipts  for  the  gelatine  process;  Edwards' 
glycerine  developer;  Dr.  Eder's  oxalate  of  iron  developer;  Nelson's 
developer;  Bedford's  developer ;  Abney's  intensifying  bath;  Varnishes; 
Good  negative  lacquer ;  Retouching  varnish  ......  307 

Elastic  lacquer;  Excellent  lacquer  for  photographs;  Vibrotypes;  Photo- 
graphs on  wood;  Worthly's  negative  process,  without  intensifying 
bath  ;  Collodion:  Developer  for  negatives;  Varnish  for  negatives;  Pol- 
ishing glass  plates 308 

PLASTER  OF  PARIS  CASTS  WHICH  CAN  BE  WASHED  : 

Dr.  Reissig's  prize  process  of  preparing  plaster  casts 308 

Process  with  baryta  water;  With  silicate  of  potassium       ....  309 

Brethauer's  method  of  preparing  plaster  of  Paris  casts  resisting  the 
action  of  the  weather;  Jacobsen's  process;  Shell hass'  coating  for  plas- 
ter casts  310 

PRESERVING  MEAT,    MILK,  VEGETABLES,  VEGETABLE    SUBSTANCES, 
WOOD, "fere.,  AND  PRESERVATIVES: 

Boro-glycerine  for  preserving  organic  substances;  Boro-tartrate  for  pre- 
serving meat  and  other  food  ;  English  pickle  for  meat;  Fluids  for  pre- 
serving corpses,  anatomical  specimens,  plants,  etc.  ....  310 

Fluids  of  Struve,  and  Jacobsen  ;  Wickersheimer's  patent "  injecting"  and 
"immersing"  Iluids;  Improved  process  for  preserving  meat,  fish,  fruits, 


CONTENTS.  XTW 

liquids,  etc. ;  New  process  of  giving  preserved  vegetables  a  natural 
color;  New  process  of  preparing  preservative  salt;  New  method  of  pre- 
serving sugar  beets,  potatoes,  and  other  tubers  311 

Preserving  lemon  juice;  Process  of  preparing  preserved  cattle-feed  from 
agricultural  products  and  waste:  Sapid  process  of  corning  meat  on  a 
small  scale;  To  dry  fruit  by  means  of  a  cold  air  blast ;  To  pack  apples 
and  other  fruit  for  transportation;  To  preserve  the  blood  from  meat 
cattle;  To  preserve  burnt  lime ;  To  preserve  butter  and  egirs  .  .  312 

To  preserve  fish;  To  preserve  fluids  containing  nutritive  substances;  To 
preserve  hops 313 

To  preserve  meat;  Wickershemier's  patent  for  preserving  meat;  To  pre- 
serve meat  and  vegetables,  milk,  vegetables  and  fruits  ....  314 

To  prevent  the  formation  of  mould  on  fruit  jellies;  Two  new  kinds  of 
preservative  papers;  To  smoke  beef;  To  preserve  vine  props  and  wine 
barrels  by  impregnating  the  wood  ;  Impregnation  with  linseed  oil,  with 
preparations  of  lime,  with  common  salt,  with  solution  of  -sulphate  of 
copper,  with  coal-tar 315 

"With  rosin  ;  New  preservative  for  wood;  To  restore  the  original  natural 

color  of  old  parquet  floors •.         .  316 

SEALING-WAX  AND  WAFERS: 

Receipts  for  all  colors  of  sealing-wax    ........  316 

Transparent  sealing-wax  ;  Gold  or  silver  transparent  sealing-wax  ;  Aven- 
turine  sealing-wax  ;  Parcel  sealing-wax  of  a  great  variety  of  colors  .  317 

Cheap  Parcel  sealing-wax ;  Bottle  sealing-wax ;  Substitute  for  bottle 
sealing-wax;  Wafers;  White  and  colored  wafers 318 

Gelatine  or  French  wafers;  Light  red  wafers;  Transparent  red  wafers; 

For  yellow  and  blue  wafers;  English  metallic  wafers.     .         .         .        .319 
SHOE-BLACKING,  DRESSINGS,  ETC.  : 

Ingredients  of  good  blacking 319 

Mixing  the  ingredients;  Caoutchouc  blackings,  paste,  and  fluid;  Caont- 
chouc  oil ;  Cordova  blacking ;-  Dressing  for  dancing  shoes ;  Dressing  free 
from  sulphuric  acid  ;  Dressings  superior  to  Paris  dressing ;  English  water- 
proof blacking ;  Fluid  blacking,  a  substitute  for  ointment  and  lacquer  .  320 

French  paste  for  patent  leather;  Good  shoe-blackings;  Gutta-percha 
blacking;  Hardeg's  leather  ointments;  Konrad's  celebrated  blacking; 
Ointment  for  boots  used  by  the  Normandy  fishermen ;  Shoe-blacking 
from  potatoes;  Water- proof  blacking ;  Water-proof  ointments  for  shoes 
and  boots 321 

To  give  the  soles,  after  scraping,  a  smooth  and  beautiful  appearance ;  For 
hemlock  leather  soles ;  To  prevent  boots  and  shoes  from  squeaking ;  To 

make  water-proof  boots 322 

SIZING  AND  DRESSING  FOR  COTTON,  WOOL,  STRAW,  ETC.  : 

Back's  improved  size  and  dressing  for  linen,  cotton,  and  woollen  goods    .  322 

Dressing  and  size;  Eau  de  Crystal! ;  Glycerine,  and  its  use  in  sizing  and 
dressing;  New  preparation,  glutine,  used  for  giving  gloss  to  wall 
papers,  and  as  an  inspissation  for  dyeing  and  printing  purposes  .  .  323 

New  size ;  Preparation  of  artificial  gum  to  be  used  in  place  of  gum- Arabic ; 
Preparation  of  blood  albumen 324 

To  prepare  patent  albumen;  Preparation  of  dextrine;  Process  of  sizing 
all  kinds  of  tissues  with  alkaline  solutions  of  silk,  wool,  or  feathers; 
Size  for  bobbinet:  For  cotton  yarns;  For  cotton  and  woollen  yarns; 
Size  for  cotton ;  Dressing  cotton' prints 325 

Glaze  dressing  for  colored  cotton  goods;  Glaze  on  black  ;  Glaze  on  black 
goods  when  the  color  is  not  sufficiently  deep  and  dark;  Glaze  on  blue 
and  green ;  Glaze  on  crimson  paper  muslin  ;  Glaze  on  rose-colored  mus- 
lin ;  Size  for  laces;  For  linen  ;  For  half-bleached  linen  ;  For  fine  Hol- 
land linen;  For  table  linen  and  damask;  Dressing  for  Panama  hats; 
Size  for  petinet  and  marly 326 


xxvi  CONTENTS. 

Size  for  woollen  goods,  cloths,  and  flannels ;  Sulphate  of  barium ;  Gerard's 
apparatine  .............  327 

SOAP.    HARD  AND  SOFT  SOAPS,  MEDICATED  AND  TOILET  SOAPS,  ETC.  : 

American  rosin  soap 327 

American  soaps;  Superior  soaps  ;  Old  English  soap;  First  premium  soap; 
Brown  rosin  soap  in  the  cold  way ;  Cocoanut-oil  soap  in  the  cold  way  .  328 

Cold  water  soap ;  Elaine  soap ;  Floating  soap ;  Molasses  soap ;  Cocoanut- 
oil  and  molasses  soap 329 

Oranienburg  soap;  Process  of  preparing  all  kinds  of  perfectly  neutral 
soaps ;  Water-glass  soaps,  hard  and  soft ;  Sand  soap  ....  330 

Toilet  and  medicated  soaps;  Bitter  almond  soap  in  the  cold  way ;  Bouquet 
soap;  Camphor  soaps;  Camphor  and  sulphur  soap;  Eagle  soap 
(brown) ;  Family  soap ;  Gall  soap ;  Glycerine  soaps,  brilliant  and  trans- 
parent   331 

Substitute  filling  in  making  glycerine  soap;  Iodide  soap;  Kummerfeldt's 
soap  for  frosted  limbs ;  Lemon,  lily,  and  mignonette  soaps ;  Musk  soap 
in  the  cold  way ;  Orange  and  patchouli  soaps ;  Prime  pumice  soap  in 
the  cold  way ;  Eose  soap ;  Savon  de  Kiz  ;  Savon  ess.  bouquet ;  Savon 
orange ;  Soap  cremes 332 

Creme  d'Amandes  Ameres;  Creme  a  la  rose;  Sulphur  soap;  Swiss  herb 
soap ;  Tannin,  tar,  vaseline,  violet,  and  white  alabaster  soaps  .  .  333 

White  Windsor  soap ;  Shaving  soap  in  the  cold  way  ;  Soap  for  washing 
silk  goods;  To  give  a  gloss  to  the  surface  of  toilet  soaps;  New  process 
of  treating  fats 334 

Balling's  method  of  preparing  caustic  soda-lye;  Tunnermann's  tables  giv- 
ing the  percentage  of  soda  in  a  soda-lye  at  59°  F.,  and  percentage  of 
anhydrous  potash  in  potash-lye  at  59°  F. 335 

Prinz's  practical  soap-boiling  tables  for  hard  and  soft  soaps       .        .        .  336 
SOLDERING  AND  SOLDERS: 

Explanation  of  soldering 336 

Autogenous  soldering;  Ordinary  soft  solder;  Bismuth  solder;  Darcet's 
metal;  Hard  solders;  Copper  for  joining  iron  to  iron;  Brass  hard 
solder;  Hard  solder  containing  tin;  Solder  for  argentan  (German 
silver) 337 

Hard  silver  solders ;  Softer  hard  silver  solders ;  Hard  gold  solders ;  Easily 
liquefiable  solders  for  articles  less  than  14-carat  gold  ;  Refractory  solder 
for  articles  of  14-carat  gold  and  over ;  Solder  for  articles  of  20-carat  gold, 
which  are  to  be  enamelled;  Very  refractory  solders  for  articles  to  be 
enamelled;  Other  hard  gold  solders  for  articles  of  14-carat  gold  .  .  338 

Good  hard  solder  for  soldering  brass;  Excellent  soft  solder;  Table  of 
alloys  for  soft  solder  and  their  respective  melting  points ;  Silver  solder 
for  plated  ware ;  Soft  solder  for  cast  Britannia  metal;  Solder  for  pew- 
ter; Hard  white  solder;  Hard  yellow  solder;  Solder  for  gold  on  alu- 
minium bronze ;  Golden  yellow  hard  solder ;  Medium  light  hard  solder ; 
White  hard  solder ;  To  solder  brass,  sheet-tin,  iron,  and  steel  .  .  339 

To  solder  steel  on  sheet-iron ;  Soldering  without  a  soldering  iron ;  Solder- 
ing liquid  causing  110  rust;  Another  soldering  liquid  free  from  acid; 
Simple  method  of  soldering  small  articles;  To  solder  saws     .        .        .340 
SUGARS,  GLUCOSE,  ETC.  ; 

Preparation  of  milk-sugar 340 

Engling's  process  of  preparing  milk-sugar;  Improvement  in  refining  and 
crystallizing  of  starch  sugar  (glucose) ;   Refining  and  preparation  of 
anhydrous  glucose;  Apparatus  and  process  for  starch,  glucose,  and  hard 
grape  sugar  (dextrose),  by  Wm.  T.  Jepp,  of  Buffalo,  N.  Y.    .        .        .  341 
To  remove  gypsum  from  solutions  of  glucose;  Preparation  of  pure  leva- 
lose;  A  new  source  for  supplying  Mannite      ...  .        .342 
Purification  of  sugar-beet  juice  by  means  of  silica  hydrate;  To  prepare 
gtrontia  sugar  from  treacle  and  syrup       .......  344 


CONTENTS.  xxvii 

TEXTILE  FABRICS  AND  TISSUES- 

Coating  textile  fabrics  with  metallic  substances ;  Effect  of  heat  on  textile 
fabrics;  Feather  plush 344 

Down  cloth  ;  Improvement  in  the  treatment  of  vegetable  fibres;  Improve- 
ment in  the  preparation  of  surfaces  to  be  printed  on,  embossed,  etc. ; 
New  method  of  compressing  the  fibres  of  cotton  tissues,  and  giving  the 
colors  more  lustre ;  New  yarn,  called  pearl  yarn;  Oil-cloth  .  .  .  345 

Apparatus  and  process  for  scouring  and  removing  the  oil  from  fleece,  wool, 
and  silk,  and  woollen  fabrics  of  every  description;  Process  for  animal- 
izing  vegetable  fibres  with  nitro-glucose  (nitro-saccharose) ;  Patent 
process  to  give  to  colored  fabrics  a  metallic  lustre;  Preparation  of  fibres 
that  can  be  spun  from  nettles,  hemp,  jute,  etc. 346 

Shoddy:  how  it  is  made 347 

Silk  gauze;  Tinning  of  tissues;  To  produce  a  metallic  lustre  upon 
fabrics;  Utilization  of  short  hair;  Utilization  and  working  of  jute  .  348 

"Heckled  yarn,"  or  "jute  line  yarn;"  Utilization  of  hop-stalks;  A  new 

yarn  produced  in  France 349 

TOBACCO,  SMOKING  TOBACCO,  SNUFF,  STERNUTATIVE  POWDERS,  ETC.  : 

Smoking  tobaccos ;  Brazilian  tobacco ;  "Legitimo;"  Havana  leaf    .        .  349 

Ordinary  American  leaf  tobacco;  Chinese  or  star  tobacco;  Canaster; 
Half  canaster ;  Maracaibo  tobacco;  Ostend  tobacco;  Petit  canaster  .  350 

Petnm  optimum,  according  to  the  Dutch  process;  Portocarero  tobacco; 
Porto  Rico  tobacco,  according  to  the  Dutch  process ;  Porto  Rico  tobacco 
from  ordinary  leaf;  Swiceut  tobacco  (English  process);  Swicent  tobacco 
(ordinary);  Sweet-scented  tobacco 351 

Varinas  tobacco ;  Improvement  of  inferior  qualities  of  tobacco  .        .352 

To  remove  the  disagreeable  smell  and  taste  of  inferior  qualities  of  tobacco; 
Snuff  manufacture ;  Barenburg  snuff;  Bergamot  snuif ;  Dutch  Musino 
snuff;  Espaniol  or  Sevilla  snuff 353 

Frankfort  snuff;  Parisian  Rappee ;  Rappee  (genuine) ;  St.  Vincent  Rap- 
pee ;  Sternutative  (sneezing)  powders ;  Green  sternutatory ;  Variegated 
sternutatory;  White  sternutatory ;  Sternutatories  for  cold  in  the  head ; 
Corrizinio ;  Perfumes  for  cigars ;  Turkish  smoking  tobacco  .  .  .  354 

To  impart  to  common  American  tobacco  the  flavor  of  Havana;    New 

process  of  preparing  tobacco;  Preparation  of  leaf  for  cigars    .        .        .355 
VINEGAR  :  MANUFACTURE  OF  ORDINARY  AND  FINE  TABLE  VINEGARS  : 

Altvater's  process  of  manufacturing  vinegar;  The  factory ;  Utensils        ..  355 

Plunging  "vinegar  producers;"  Utilization  of  cork-waste  in  the  manu- 
facture of  vinegar ;  Concentration  of  vinegar ;  To  prepare  the  yellow 
color  for  coloring  vinegar;  To  prepare  acetic  ether;  Quick  vinegar 
process ;  Production  of  vinegar  by  means  of  bacteria  ....  358 

Investigations  of  Pasteur  and  Wurm 359 

White  wine  vinegar ;  To  prepare  acetic  acid ;  To  prepare  excellent  vin- 
egar ;  Vinegar  from  potatoes  or  rice ;  Fine  table  vinegars ;  Anise  vinegar ; 
Aromatic  vinegar 360 

Dragonswort  (Estragon)  vinegar ;  Compound  dragonswort,  or  herb  table- 
vinegar;  Spiced  dragonswort -vinegar ;  English  spiced  vinegar;  Effer- 
vescing vinegar;  Herb  vinegar  as  prepared  in  the  northern  part  of 
Germany ;  Herb  vinegar  as  prepared  on  the  Rhine ;  Lemon  vinegar  .  361 

Orange,  pine-apple,  raspberry,  strawberry,  and  vanilla  vinegars ;  Vinaigre 

a  la  Bordin  ;  Vinaigre  a  la  Ravigote 362 

WASHING  AND  SCOURING.    MANUFACTURE  OF  WASHING-BLUE,  ETC.  : 

To  wash  satin,  silk  ribbons,  brocade,  and  silk  damask  ;  To  wash  silk 
ribbons  mixed  with  gold  and  silver  threads,  silver  and  gold  lace  .  362 

To  wash  gold  laces ;  To  wash  white  silk  crape,  white  gauze,  fine  muslin, 
linen,  and  batiste  and  velvet;  To  wash  velvet  which  has  become  hard 
and  rough  by  rain  or  mud;  To  wash  veils,  silk,  and  silk  fabrics  .  .  363 

To  wash  embroidered  fabrics,  or  muslin,  linen,  etc.,  woven  with  gold ;  To 


xxviii  CONTENTS. 

wash  silk  stockings,  and  taffeta;  To  polish  gold  and  silver  lace;  To 
polish  silver  lace  or  embroidery ;  To  wash  laces 364 

To  wash  point  lace  ;  To  whiten  lace;  To  cleanse  feathers  :  Cleansing  and 
rosing  salt  for  red  cloths  stained  by  use  ;  To  wash  genuine  pearls  ;  Dye- 
starch,  and  crimson  dye-starch ;  Washing  with  -water-glass  .  .  .  365 

Palme's  process  of  washing;  New  wash  process;  To  wash  dresses  of  fast- 
colored  silk;  To  make  washed  silk  glossy;  To  restore  the  color  of 
fabrics;  To  wash  pearl  embroideries;  To  bleach  or  whiten  clothes; 
Clark's  wash  for  carpets;  To  wash  straw  and  chip  hats  .  .  .  366 

Experiments  in  washing  woollen  fabrics      .......  367 

To  wash  cotton  and  muslin  prints  without  injury  to  the  colors ;  Panama 
essence  for  cleansing  and  washing  clothes;  Cleansing  fluid  for  tissues, 
etc.;  Use  of  tin  salt  for  removing  rust-stains  from  clothes  (Hermann's 
experiments) ;  Manufacture  of  washing-blue 368 

Table  of  means  of  removing  stains       ........  V3G9 

Liquid  wash-blue;  Several  other  receipts  for  liquid  washing-blue;  Wash- 
ing powders ;  Washing  crystal ;  Lustrine  Alsacienne  (starch  gloss)       .  370 
WASTE  AND  OFFAL,  UTILIZATION  OF  : 

Fabrication  of  lampblack  from  waste  in  working  coal-tar          .        .         .  370 

Specially  constructed  furnace  for  manufacturing  lampblack  ;  Manufacture 
of  lampblack  from  asphaltum,  pitch,  or  blacksmiths'  pitch  .  .  .371 

Manufacture  of  various  kinds  of  lampblack  from  the  resinous  sodic  resi- 
dues in  the  working  of  coal-tar ;  Manufacture  of  artificial  manures  from 
residues  in  the  working  of  coal-tar 372 

Manure  for  meadows;  With  wood-ash;  With  peat-ash;  Utilization  of 
ammoniacal  liquor  from  coal-tar 373 

Ammonia,  tar,  and  other  products  of  distillation  from  the  gases  of  coke- 
ovens  374 

To  regain  hydrochloric  acid  used  in  the  manufacture  of  gelatine  from 
bones;  Tartrate  of  calcium  and  spirit  of  wine  from  wine  lees  .  .  375 

Process  of  producing  white  or  black  pigment  from  the  clarifying  slime 
in  sugar  houses;  Process  of  working  fecal  substances  in  a  rarefied 
space;  Sulphur,  sulphuric  acid,  etc.,  from  gas-lime;  Recovering  fat 
and  color  from  waste  wash  liquors 376 

Utilization  of  waste  wash  liquors  from  wool  manufactories;  To  cleanse 
woollen  waste;  Utilization  of  waste  of  sheep  wool;  To  regain  indigo 
from  old  colors  and  residues  of  colors;  Production  of  cyanide  of  potas- 
sium, ammonia,  tar,  and  gas  from  nitrogeneous  organic  substances;  To 
restore  rubber  corks;  Process  of  gaining  the  volatile  products  developed 

in  roasting  coffee  and  their  utilization 377 

WATER-GLASS  (SOLUBLE  GLASS)  AND  ITS  USES: 

Potash  water-glass;  Water-glass  from  infusorial  earth  ;  Soda  water-glass; 
Buchner's  process ;  Compound  water-glass  ......  378 

Preparation  of  fixing  water-glass;  Kuhlmann's  (of  Lille)  process;  Water- 
glass  as  a  substitute  for  cow-dung  for  fixing  alumina  and  iron  mordants 
on  cotton-prints,  linen,  etc.;  Use  of  soda  water-glass  for  protecting 
white  colors  in  printing  fabrics;  Water-glass  for  silicifying  stones; 
Water-glass  as  a  bleaching  agent  (H.  Grothe)  .  .  .  .  .  379 

Water-glass  for  finishing  linen  and  cotton  goods;  Potash  water-glass  as  a 
binding  and  fixing  medium  for  ground  colors  on  cotton  goods;  For 
light  blue  ultramarine  colors ;  Violet;  Different  green  tints;  Yellow; 
Orange  and  red;  Red-brown;  Copper-brown;  WThite;  Different  vegeta- 
ble lakes;  ;' Solid  blue;"  "Solid  green" .380 

Water-glass  in  painting  (Feichtinger);  Use  of  ^ater-glass  for  coating 
rough-cast  and  stone  walls ;  Water-glass  in  painting  metals  and  glass  ; 
Advantages  to  wood  painted  with  wrr.ter-glass ;  Creuzburg's  process  of 
painting  with  water-glass ;  Water-glass  as  a  substitute  for  borax  and 
poracic  acid  in  soldering  and  welding ;  Water-glass  cements  ,  .  .  381 


CONTENTS. 

To  cement  cracked  bottles  with  water-glass ;  To  prepare  hydraulic  Water- 
glass  cement;  Water-glass  cement  for  glass  and  porcelain;  Water-glass 
cement  with  zinc  and  pyrolusite;  Water-glass  and  lime  cement;  Bott- 
ger's  water-glass  and  lime  cement;  Water-glass  and  caseine  cement  for 
glass  and  porcelain  ;  Water-glass  and  powdered  chalk  mortar;  Water- 
glass  for  preserving  barrels  and  other  wooden  articles  .  .  •  .  382 
WATER-PROOFING  COMPOUNDS  : 

Preparations  for  water-proofing  tissues        .......  382 

To  m;ike  sacking  water-proof;  Soap  for  water-proofing  woollen  cloth  and 
other  fabrics ;  Various  processes  of  water-proofing  tissues ;  Preparation 
of  collodion  varnish  for  water-proofing  fabrics;  A  new  water-proofing 
compound;  To  manufacture  water-proof  cloth  which  is  not  impervious 
to  the  air;  Prepared  cloth  as  a  substitute  for  leather  .  .  .  .383 

To  water-proof  felt,  woollen,  and  half-woollen  fabrics,  and  to  give  them 
greater  consistence ;  To  water-proof  vegetable  fibres ;  To  water-proof 
textile  fabrics,  leather,  paper,  etc.;  To  water-proof  paper;  For  water- 
proofing woollen  fabrics  ..........  384 

Impregnation  with  caoutchouc;  Impenetrable  double  stuff';  Becker, 
Delivaire  &  Co.'s  process  of  water-proofing  fabrics;  New  process  of 
water-proofing  fabrics;  VaneFs  water-proof  composition;  Roelaudt's 
water-proofing  compounds;  French  preparation  to  make  boots  and 
shoes  water-proof;  To  water-proof  sugar-bags  for  transport  use  .  .  385 

English  patent  water-proofing  compound  ;  Water-proofing  felt  hats ;  Water- 
proof sail-cloth,  known  as  "Imperial  cloth;"  Zwilling's  water-proofing 
compound;  Dr.  Fouruaise's  water-proofing  compound;  Ruhr's  receipt 
for  water-proofing  linen ;  To  water-proof  textile  fabrics  and  paper,  and 
to  give  them  greater  consistence ;  Composition  for  water-proofing  textile 

fabrics,  and  protecting  them  against  moths 386 

WAX  AND  WAX  PREPARATIONS: 

Unadulterated  beeswax;  To  bleach  beeswax;  Green  wax;  Black  wax; 
Red  wax;  Polishing  wax;  Polishing  wax  for  furniture;  Wax  soap  .  387 

Waxed  paper;  Colors  for  wax-work ;  Gold  ground  upon  wax ;  Wax  for 
waxing  threads  to  be  woven;  Wax  tapers;  Wax  candles  .  .  .  388 

Floor   wax;    New    compound    for   waxing   floors;    Spirit    lacquer  for 

lacquering  wax  tapers;  Excellent  modelling  wax    .         .    •    .         .         .389 
WOOD.    GILDING,  POLISHING,  STAINING,  ETC.: 

Extraction  and  impregnation  of  sounding-board  wood  ;  To  prepare  sound- 
ing-board wood  ;  To  make  wood  flexible  and  fire-proof  ....  389 

To  render  wood  incombustible  and  impermeable  (Folbacci) ;  To  render 
wood  fire-proof;  To  render  wood  impermeable  to  water  ....  390 

How  osiers  can  be  peeled  in  winter ;  Staining  wood  for  fine  cabinet  work 
(Denninger,  of  Mayence);  Gallic  acid;  Sulphate  of  iron;  Logwood 
shavings;  Pulverized  sanderswood;  Saffron  and  annotto;  Shavings  of 
Brazil  wood  and  of  fustic;  Crushed  Persian  berries;  Pulverized 
cochineal;  Aqueous  decoction  of  logwood;  Pulverized  indigo;  Solution 
of  tin;  Denniuger's  process  of  producing  colors 391 

Other  stains  on  wood  (Thimm's  patent);  Black  ground  for  lacquering; 
To  stain  walking-canes;  To  stain  maple  wood  silver-gray  .  .  .392 

Ebony  stains ;  For  veneers ;  Stain  for  floors ;  Staining  wood  for  veneers, 
mosaics — various  colors 393 

Moiner's  method  of  staining  wood  rose  color  by  chemical  precipitation; 
New  polish  for  wood;  Moody's  new  polish ;  Gilding  on  wood  .  .  394 

American  process  of  preserving  wood;  Preparation  of  mine-timber;  Rela- 
tive durability  of  the  timbers 395 

Shrinking  of  wood  ;  Strength  of  some  American  woods  ;  Hard  coating  for 
wood;  Imitation  of  cedar  wood  ;  New  glaze  for  barrels,  vats,  etc.  .  .  396 

New  method  of  drying  wood;  New  paint  for  wooden  posts,  etc. ;-New 
process  of  preserving  wood  .........  397 


xxx  CONTENTS. 

Polishing  wax  for  wood;  Practical  experiments  in  producing  new  colors 
upon  wood  with  known  coloring  matters  ......  398 

Preparation  of  fire-proof  wood 399 

YEASTS.    MANUFACTURE  OF  PRESSED  YEAST,  BAKERS'  AND  BREWERS' 
YEAST,  ETC.  : 

Schubert's  method  of  manufacturing  pressed  yeast 399 

Ssiccharization  and  cooling;  Setting  the  mash;  Scooping  off  the  yeast 
and  freeing  it  from  husks;  Washing  and  pressing  the  yeast;  Moulding 
the  pressed  yeast;  Vienna  pressed  yeast;  Zettler's  process  of  manufact- 
uring Vienna  pressed  yeast 400 

Prof.  Otto's  directions  for  preparing  pressed  yeast;  Pressed  yeast  from 
potatoes;  American  dry  yeast;  Artificial  yeast 401 

Cramer's  process  of  preparing  pressed  yeast  from  beer-yeast;  Improve- 
ments in  treating  yeast ;  Pressed  yeast  from  beer-yeast  ....  402 


ADDENDA. 


ALLOYS : 

Alloy  of  copper,  platinum,  and  palladium;   Alloys  resembling  silver; 

Minargent;  Warne  metal;  Trabak  metal ;  Manganese  alloys        .        .  403 
New  alloy  for  silvering;  Aluminium  bronze;  Phosphor  bronze        .         .404 
Manganese  bronze  ;  Density  of  alloys  ;  Alloys  exhibiting  greater  density 
than  the  mean  of  their  constituents ;  Alloys  exhibiting  less  density  than 
the  mean  of  their  constituents ;  Fusibility  of  alloys ;  Spence's  metal ; 
Receipts  for  metal-workers  proved  in  practice;  Metal  for  brasses;  Ma- 
chinery metal  for  various  purposes 405 

ANTISEPTIC  AND  PRESERVATIVE  AGENTS  : 

Boroglyceride 405 

Calcium  and  sodium  glyceroborates,  two  new  antiseptics    ....  406 
Effective  power  of  different  antiseptic  agents ;  New  iron  fruit-drying  ap- 
paratus; New  process  of  greening  canned  vegetables;  For  peas;  For 
beans;  Novelties  in  preserving  organic  substances,  and  apparatus  used  .  407 
Preparation,  free  from  arsenic,  for  preserving  animal  skins;  Preservative 
packing-paper  to  protect  cloth,  furs,  etc.,  from  moths     ....  408 

ARTIFICIAL  EYES,  MANUFACTURE  OF 408 

ASBESTOS  AND  ITS  USES  : 

Asbestos  industry  in  England 409 

BLEACHING : 

Bleaching  of  fabrics  and  yarns  without  chlorine 409 

Bleaching  yarns  and  fabrics;  Novelties  in  bleaching         .        .        .        .410 
BOOKBINDING,  GILDING,  AND  ORNAMENTING: 

Folding  ;  Rolling  ;  Sewing  ;  Rounding 410 

Edge-cutting;  Binding;  Covering;  Tooling  and  lettering ;  Edge-gilding ; 

For  plain  edges;  Marbling;  Reichardt's  rosin  compound  for  gilding 

paper,  leather,  etc.;   Reber's  process  of  gilding  leather;  Parchment 

glue ;  White  of  egg;  Marbled  and  dark  leather  of  one  color   .        .        .  411 

Calfskin;  Dull  'gilding  on  calfskin;  To  gild  velvet;   Gilding  on  silk; 

Bookbinders'  lacquer ;  Improvement  in  book  covers       ....  412 
BRONZING,  GILDING,  SILVERING,  ETC.  : 

Apparatus  for  coating  tools 412 

Bronzing  copper;  Cold  black  stain  for  brass;  Galvanizing  and  nickelling 

of  iron  in  Cleveland,  Ohio;  Gilding  of  steel 413 

Gold  and  orange  stain  for  brass ;  Green  bronzing  ;  Liquid  cement  for 
coating  articles;  New  process  for  producing  a  bronze-colored  surface  on 
iron ;  Painting  on  zinc  .  . 414 


CONTENTS.  xxxi 

To  cleanse  brass ;  To  color  soft  solder  yellow 415 

BUILDING  MATERIALS  : 

Fire-resisting  properties  of  building  materials;  Cork  stone;  Enamelled 
bricks  .  ............  415 

Mass  for  roofing,  fire-proof  ceilings,  floors,  etc.;  Plaster  for  ceilings; 

Terra-cotta  lumber ;  Utilization  of  saw-dust 416 

CELLULOID.    IMITATIONS,  SUBSTITUTES,  ETC.  : 

Artificial  ivory  ;  Celluloid  printing  plates 416 

Elastic  mass  resembling  leather;  Flexible  insulating  mass;  Insulating 
material  for  electrical  conductors ;  Mass  for  plastic  models ;  New  imita- 
tion of  ivory  ;  New  substitute  for  caoutchouc  ......  417 

Substitute  for  gutta-percha;  Superior  modelling  wax;  Vegetable  leather  .  418 
CEMENT  WORK  : 

Water-proof  cement  work 418 

CLEANSING,  POLISHING,  AND  RENOVATING  AGENTS: 

Cleaning-powder  for  show-windows  ;  Clean  sing- rags  for  polishing  metal ; 
Cleansing  wash-leather;  Cloth-cleaning  compound;  Furniture  reno- 
vater;  Liquid  polish  for  silver-plated  ware;  New  polish  for  wood  .  419 

Polishing  soaps  and  pastes ;  Restoring  plush ;  To  clean  glass  and  silver- 
ware; To  clean  marble 420 

To  cleanse  silvered  dial  plates;  To  clean  smoky  walls       ....  421 
COLORS,  ENAMELS,  CEMENTS,  GLUE,    VARNISHES,   WATER-PROOFING 
SUBSTANCES,  ETC.  : 

American  wood-filler;  Cement  for  mend  ing  enamel  led  dial  plates;  Crystal- 
line coating  for  wood  or  paper;  Enamel  for  fine  cards  and  other  pur- 
poses ;  Imitation  of  cinnabar 421 

Enamel  free  from  lead  and  metallic  oxides  for  iron  and  sheet-iron,  and 
utensils  manufactured  from  them ;  New  method  for  the  production  of 
water-proof  and  incombustible  fabrics ;  Phosphorescent  enamel ;  Prep- 
aration of  lustre  colors  with  carbolic  acid;  Bismuth,  tin,  uranium,  and 
iron  lustres 422 

Soap  varnishes;  Johnson's  varnish  for  water-proofing  paper  or  cloth; 

Soap  varnish  for  gilding;  Water-proof  glue 423 

COPYING  : 

New  method  of  copying  drawings;  Phytochromotypy        .        .        .        .423 
EXPLOSIVE  AGENTS  : 

Blasting  cartridges ;  Blasting  paper;  Explosive  combination ;  Explosive 
substance;  Explosive  and  pyrotechnic  substances;  Method  of  blasting 
under  water  with  compressed  gun-cotton 424 

New  blasting  powder;  New  method  of  preparing  giant  powder;  Prepara- 
tion of  hypouitric  acid  and  its  use  for  explosive  and  illuminating  sub- 
stances   425 

GLASS  : 

Appert's  method  of  blowing  glass  by  means  of  compressed  air  .        .        .'426 

Cutting  glass  with  a  carbon  pencil ;  Receipts  for  making  carbon  pencils  .  430 

Etching  ink  for  glass ;  Glass  with  copper  lustre 431 

Lead-pencils  for  glass  and  porcelain  ;  Receipts  for  different  colored  pen- 
cils; Lithium  glass ;  Manufacture  of  plate  glass 432 

Ornamenting  frosted  glass;  To  transfer  photographs  to  glass;  Platinizing 

glass;  Toughened  glass 434 

HORN-COMBS,  MANUFACTURE  OF: 

Treatment  of  horn  for  manufacture  of  horn-combs 435 

LUBRICANTS,  BLACKING,  ETC.  : 

Belt  grease 435 

Caoutchouc  lubricant  for  driving  belts;  Harness  grease;  Harness  polish; 
Thurston's  machine  for  testing  lubricating  oils 436 

Lubricants;  Experiments  on  the  effect  of  admixture  of  mineral  oil  with 
animal  oil  in  lessening  the  liability  of  the  latter  to  spontaneous  com- 
bustion; Purification  of  lubricants  after  use;  New  receipts  for  blacking.  438 


xxxii  CONTENTS. 

METAL  INDUSTRY. 

Hardening  composition  for  steel ;  Indium,  its  preparation  and  use;  Mac- 
kinnon  stylographic  pen  as  made  by  John  Holland  (Cincinnati)  .  .  439 

Phosphor-indium  and  its  properties ;  Cowles'  electric  furnace  for  reducing 
refractory  ores  ............  440 

Fleetruan's  process  of  refining  nickel ;  Ostberg's  process  for  wrought-iron 
(or  mitis)  castings;  Mechanically  hardened  steel;  New  solder  for  metal, 
glass,  and  porcelain ;  Oxidized  silver 441 

Phosphorizing  bronze  or  brass      .........  442 

Prevention  of  rusting-in  of  screws ;  To  mark  tools  with  a  name ;  Utiliza- 
tion of  nickel  waste;  Zincing  screw  bolts 443 

MISCELLANEOUS  : 

Continuously-working  furnace  for  the  manufacture  of  animal  charcoal    .  444 

Gilding  and  silvering  leather;  Coating  leaden  water  pipes  to  prevent  con- 
tamination of  the  water  supply;  New  floor  covering;  New  process  of 
manufacturing  gold  wall  paper 445 

Phosphorescent  mixtures ;  Preparation  of  precipitated  chalk  for  tooth- 
powders  ;  Process  of  joining  two  pieces  of  horn ;  To  make  horn  combs 
elastic;  Roach  and  moth  exterminator;  Shaving  cream  .  .  .  440 

To  preserve  India  rubber  goods  from  becoming  hard  and  cracking;  To 
render   rubber   hose  odorless;    Washing  white  straw  hats;   Window 
panes  which  indicate  the  moisture  of  the  atmosphere     ....  447 
OILS  AND  FATS  : 

Bleaching  of  bone-fat;  Bleaching  of  paraffine  and  similar  substances  for 
the  manufacture  of  candles;  Bleaching  of  oils  and  fats  .  .  .  447 

Bleaching  tallow   .         . 448 

Clarifying  olive  oil;  Detection  of  water  in  essential  oils;  Manufacture  of 
cotum-seed  oil 449 

Fat  from  sheep's  wool;  "Suint,"  or  potassic  sudorate  in  .sheep's  wool       .  450 

Refining  of  cotton-seed  oil;  Production  of  light-colored  soap,  or  light- 
colored  sebacic  acids,  from  crude  cotton-seed  oil,  or  from  residues 
obtained  by  its  purification ;  To  remove  the  disagreeable  odor  of  soap 
made  from  cotton-seed  oil;  Utilizing  cotton-seed  hulls;  New  process  of 
extracting  fish  oil ;  Preparation  of  heavy  oils  and  paraffine  from  petro- 
leum residues 451 

Purification  of  oils;  Solidification  of  liquid  hydrocarbons;  Substitute  for 
linseed  oil;  To  purify  oils 452 

White  vaseline  oil ;  Solvent  power  of  glycerine;  Tables  showing  the  parts 

of  other  substances  dissolved  by  100  parts  (by  weight)  of  glycerine       .  453 
PAri-:u: 

Cupro-ammonimn  for  rendering  paper  and  textile  fabrics  water-,  rot-,  and 
insect-proof  (Wi  11  esdeni zing)  .........  453 

Fabrication  of  parchment;  Fire-proof  papers,  colors,  and  printed  matter; 
Gas-pipes  from  paper ;  Luminous  paper 454 

Manufacture  of  bottles,  etc.,  from  paper;  New  method  of  manufacturing 
paper  pulp  ;  Paper  for  covering  boilers;  Preparation  of  soap  paper;  To 
make  parchment  paper  impermeable  to  oil      ......  455 

STRAW,  BLEACHING  AND  DYEING  OF  : 

Bleaching  straw     ............  455 

Dyeing  straw  of  various  colors  • 456 

STRENGTH  OF  MATERIALS: 

Thurston's  autographic  torsion  testing  machine 456 

WILLOW- WARE  : 

Bleaching  willow-ware;  Stains  for  willow-ware;  Receipts  for  various 
colors 458 

Coloring  osiers  with  aniline  colors 459 

Varnishing,  gilding,  and  painting  willow-ware 460 

INDEX  461 


TECMO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


ADULTERATIONS,   IMITATIONS,    ETC. 
HOW  TO  DETECT  THEM. 

Olive  Oil.  The  following  process  of 
testing  olive  oil  for  cotton-seed  oil  has 
been  authorized  by  the  Italian  Govern- 
ment: Mix  1  part  of  pure  nitric  acid 
with  2£  parts  of  the  oil  to  be  tested. 
Place  a  clean  copper  wire  in  the  mix- 
ture, and  stir  thoroughly  with  a  glass 
rod.  The  oil,  if  it  contains  cotton-seed 
oil,  will  turn  red  in  the  course  of  half 
an  hour. 

Animal  Charcoal.  To  detect  adul- 
terations of  animal  charcoal  used  in 
the  manufacture  of  sugar,  place  a 
weighed  quantity  of  the  suspected  char- 
coal, previously  finely  powdered  and 
dried,  in  a  porcelain  crucible,  and  heat 
until  all  organic  substances,  have  been 
incinerated.  Not  more  than  one-tenth 
of  the  weight  should  be  lost  by  this 
operation.  To  determine  whether  the 
charcoal  has  been  used  before,  boil  the 
sample  several  times  with  pure  water, 
dry,  add  a  small  quantity  of  potassium 
hydrate  and  bring  again  to  the  boiling 
point.  After  a  few  minutes,  filter.  If 
the  filtrate  appears  colored,  the  char- 
coal has  already  been  used,  and  not 
thoroughly  revivified. 

Determination  of  Percentage  of  Oil 
in  Seeds.  The  apparatus,  Fig.  1,  con- 
sists of  the  vessel  «,  the  cylindrical 
vessel  b,  and  a  small  air  pump  c  on  the 
side  of  the  vessel  a.  Further,  of  a 
small  copper  still,  d  (Fig.  2),  and  a 
boiler  e  i ,  a  tinned  copper  saucer  g,  and 
the  water-bath  h.  The  lower  half  of 
this  is  perforated,  and  connected  with 
the  still  by  a  rubber  hose. 

A  convenient  quantity,  say  4  oz.,  of 
the  seed  to  be  tested  is  ground  as  fine 
as  possible.  One-half  of  it  is  placed 
in  the  cylindrical  vessel  b,  a  diaphragm 
placed  upon  it,  and  on  the  top  of  this, 
the  second  half  of  the  seed,  also  covered 


by  a  diaphragm.    A  sufficient  quantity 
of  bisulphide  of  carbon,  to  thoroughly 


Fig.  1. 

moisten  the  seed,  is  then  poured  ovei 
it.    After  a  few  minutes  the  vessel  a  is 


Fig.  2. 

emptied  by  means  of  the  air  pump 
the  oily  bisulphide  of  carbon  runs  o 
(l) 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


the  vessel  is  charged  anew  with  bisul- 
phide, and  the  pumping  and  charging 
repeated,  until  the  liquid  runs  off  quite 
colorless,  and  leaves  no  grease  stain 
upon  printing  paper  after  evaporation. 
Four  ounces  of  seed  will  usually  re- 
quire about  16  ounces  of  bisulphide  of 
carbon. 

To  separate  the  bisulphide  of  carbon 
from  the  oil,  the  still  is  filled  three 
quarters  full  with  water,  heated  by  a 
lamp  placed  under  it,  and  the  fluid  to  be 
evaporated  poured  into  the  saucer. 
When  the  bisulphide  of  carbon  has  been 
evaporated,  the  still  is  removed,  the 
saucer  placed  over  the  lamp,  and  re- 
moved the  moment  the  oil  commences  to 
boil.  It  is  then  allowed  to  cool  off, 
and  the  oil  contained  in  the  saucer  is 
weighed.  By  this  process  it  was  found 
that 


Rape  seed  .  . 
Flaxseed  .  . 
White  poppy 

seed  .  .  . 
Peanuts  .  .  . 
Water  melon 

seed  .  .  . 
White  mustard 

seed  .  .  . 
Black  mustard 

seed  .  .  . 
Hemp  seed 


yielded  40  to  50  per  cent,  of  oil. 
34        "      "     "  " 


36 


Vinegar  may  be  adulterated : 

a.  With  Sulphuric  Acid.    To  detect 
this  adulteration  mix  a  small  sample 
with  some  powdered  starch,  boil  it  for 
half  an  hour,  then  allow  it  to  become 
entirely  cold  (this  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary); and  add  a  few  drops  of  iodine 
solution.     The  vinegar,  in  case  it  is 
adulterated,  will  be  colored  blue. 

b.  With  Nitric  Acid.     Mix  a  sample 
with  solution  of  sulphate  of   indigo. 
The  fluid  becomes  discolored,   or  as- 
sumes a  yellowish  color,  if  adulterated. 

c.  Tar  tar  ic  Acid.     A  specimen  of  the 
vinegar    to    be    tested    is    evaporated 
nearly  to  dryness.        The    residue  is 
extracted  with    alcohol,   filtered    and 
treated  with  a  solution  of  potassium 
chloride.    A  white  precipitate  indicates 
adulteration. 

d.  Lead  is  present  when  a  sample  of 
vinegar  is  evaporated  to  one  quarter  of  its 
volume,  and  this,  being  treated  with  sul- 
phuric acid,  yields  a  white  precipitate,    j 


Saffron.  Concentrated  sulphuric  acid 
is  the  surest  means  of  testing  saffron. 
The  stigmas  of  the  genuine  article  will 
immediately  assume  an  indigo  color, 
which  changes  quickly  into  dark  red 
and  brown,  while  the  leaves  of  crocus 
vermts,  the  most  common  adulteration 
of  saffron,  are  colored  dark  green. 

Asphaltum.  To  detect  adulterations, 
dissolve  a  sample  in  bisulphide  of  car- 
bon, filter,  evaporate  to  dryness,  and 
heat  until  it  can  be  rubbed  to  a  fine 
powder  in  a  mortar.  One  part  by- 
weight  of  this  is  gently  digested  with 
50  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  and  then  gradually  with 
100  parts  of  water,  and  allowed  to 
cool  thoroughly.  This  mixture  is  fil- 
tered and  diluted  with  1,000  parts  of 
water.  The  unadulterated  asphaltum 
gives  a  colorless  or  pale-yellow  fluid, 
while,  if  pitch,  coal-tar,  etc.,  are  pres- 
ent, it  is  dark  brown  or  black. 

Simple  Process  of  Distinguishing 
Genuine  Gilding  and  Silvering  from 
Imitations,  a.  Gilding.  Diluted  so- 
lution of  chloride  of  copper  produces  a 
black  discoloration  on  imitation  gild- 
ing, but  has  no  effect  whatever  upon 
the  genuine,  b.  Silvering.  A  mixture 
of  equal  parts  of  bi-chromate  of  potas- 
sium and  nitric  acid  -produces  a  red 
coloration  on  genuine  silvering,  while 
it  has  no  effect  upon  the  imitation. 

Milk.  Besides  the  common  method 
of  diluting  milk  with  water,  another 
species  of  adulteration  has  recently 
been  detected.  It  is  now  frequently 
sophisticated  with  dextrine.  This 
fraud  can  easily  be  detected  by  means 
of  a  Solution  of  iodine ;  if  the  specimen 
contains  the  smallest  quantity  of  dex- 
trine, it  will  acquire  a  red  color. 

Adulteration  of  Wax  with  Tallow. 
Wax  floats  in  alcohol  of  29°.  By  ob- 
serving the  strength  of  the  alcohol  in 
which  the  sample  floats,  the  percentage 
of  wax  may  be  deduced  as  follows : 


If  the  alcoholometer 
shows : 


29° 

39.63° 

50.25° 

60.87° 

71.50° 


The  wax  contains 
wax  : 


100  per  cent. 
75   "      " 
50  "      " 
25   "      " 
0   "      " 


ADULTERATIONS,  IMITATIONS,  ETC. 


To  Test  Dyes  for  Adulteration.  Red 
dyes  must  neither  color  soap  solution 
nor  limewater,  nor  must  they  them- 
selves become  yellow  or  brown  after 
boiling.  This  test  shows  the  presence 
or  absence  of  Brazil-wood,  archil,  saf- 
flower,  sanders-wood  or  the  aniline 
colors.  Yellow  dyes  must  stand  being 
boiled  with  alcohol,  water  and  lime 
water.  The  most  stable  yellow  is 
madder  yellow ;  the  least  stable  are 
anotto  and  turmeric,  while  fustic  is 
rather  better.  Blue  dyes  must  not 
color  alcohol  red,  nor  must  they  de- 
compose on  boiling  with  hydrochloric 
acid.  The  best  purple  colors  are  com- 
posed of  indigo  and  cochineal  or  pur- 
purin.  The  test  for  blue  applies  also 
to  them.  Orange  dyes  must  not  color 
water,  boiling  water,  alcohol,  nor  hy- 
drochloric acid  green.  Brown  dyes 
must  not  lose  their  color  on  standing 
with  alcohol,  or  on  boiling  with  water. 
If  black  colors  have  a  basis  of  indigo, 
they  turn  green  or  blue  on  boiling  with 
sodium  carbonate ;  if  the  dye  be  pure 
gallnuts,  it  turns  brown.  If  the 
material  changes  to  red,  on  boiling 
with  hydrochloric  acid,  the  coloring 
substance  is  logwood  without  a  basis 
of  indigo,  and  is  not  durable.  If  it 
changes  to  blue,  indigo  is  present. 

To  Detect  Alum  in  Red  Wine.  Boil 
a  sample  of  the  wine  for  a  few  minutes. 
Pure  wine  remains  unchanged,  while 
the  adulterated  article  becomes  turbid. 

Simple  Method  for  Distinguishing 
Genuine  Butter  from  Artificial.  Heat 
the  suspected  butter  in  a  crucible  or 
test-tube,  to  about  300°  to  320°  F.  At 
this  temperature  artificial  butter  froths 
but  little,  and  the  mass  exhibits  irregu- 
lar movements  resembling  those  of  boil- 
ing, accompanied  by  sudden,  forcible 
shocks  which  frequently  throw  a  part 
of  the  fat  from  the  crucible.  Casein  at 
the  same  time  is  separated  and  forms 
on  the  edge  of  the  crucible  in  small 
balls,  which  assume  a  brown  tint,  while 
the  fat  retains  its  original  color.  Genu- 
ine butter,  under  these  circumstances, 
foams  copiously,  the  agitation  occa- 
sioned by  boiling  is  not  nearly  so  forci- 
ble, and  the  entire  mass  assumes  a  uni- 
form brown  color. 

W.  G.  Crock  melts  and  filters  the 
suspected  butter.  He  then  takes  10 
grains  of  this,  heats  it  in  a  test-glass, 


150.8  F,,  then  adds  30  minims  of  phe- 
nole,  shakes  the  mixture  and  heats  it 
in  a  water  bath  until  the  fluid  becomes 
transparent.  The  test-glass  is  then  al- 
lowed to  stand  quietly  for  some  time. 
Genuine  butter  will  give  a  clear  solu- 
tion, but  suet,  tallow  or  lard  forms  two 
separate  layers  of  fluid,  the  upper  of 
which  becomes  turbid  on  cooling. 


ALLOYS. 

Alloys  for  Tea  Pots.  88.55  parts  of 
tin,  9.53  of  antimony,  9.94  of  zinc,  0.88 
of  copper. 

Oroide.  This  alloy,  resembling  gold 
(specific  gravity  8.79),  consists  of  U8.21 
parts  of  copper,  13.52  of  zinc,  0.48  of 
tin  and  0.24  of  iron. 

Britannia  Metal.  Roller  prepares 
this  as  follows :  85.72  parts  of  tin,  10.34 
of  antimony,  2.91  of  zinc,  0.78  of 
copper. 

Alloys  for  Taking  Impressions  of 
Coins,  Medals,  Wood  Cuts,  etc.  Melt 
at  as  moderate  a  heat  as  possible,  4 
parts  of  bismuth,  2i  of  lead,  2  of  tin 
and  1  of  worn-out  metal  types. 

Chrysorine.  This  alloy,  in  color, 
closely  resembles  18  to  20  carat  gold. 
It  has  a  beautiful  lustre  and  does  not 
tarnish  when  exposed  to  the  air.  It 
consists  of  100  parts  of  copper  and  50 
of  zinc.  It  is  used,  like  Prince's  metal, 
for  watch  cases  and  parts  of  the  works. 

Prince's  metal  consists  of  6  parts  of 
copper  and  1  of  tin,  and  resembles  gold 
in  color. 

Pinchbeck.  This  alloy,  resembling 
gold  in  color,  derives  its  name  from  the 
English  town  Pinchbeck,  where  it  was 
first  manufactured,  and  consists  of  90 
parts  of  copper  and  30  of  zinc. 

Robertson's  Alloy  for  Filling  Teeth. 
1  part  of  gold,  3  of  silver  and  2  of  tin. 
First  melt  the  gold  and  silver  in  a  cru- 
cible, and  at  the  moment  of  fusion  add 
the  tin.  The  alloy,  when  cold,  may 
be  finely  pulverized.  Equal  quantities 
of  the  powder  and  mercury  are  kneaded 
together  in  the  palm  of  the  hand  to 
form  a  paste  for  filling  teeth. 

Aluminium  Alloys.  Aluminium 
forms  alloys  with  many  metals.  Those 
with  copper,  silver  and  tin  are  to  some 
extent  employed  for  technical  purposes, 
the  most  important  being  those  with 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


copper,  with  which  aluminium  can 
easily  be  alloyed.  Lange  &  Sons  have 
obtained  a  patent  in  the  United  States 
for  an  alloy  consisting  of  95  parts  of 
aluminium  and  5  of  copper,  which  is 
malleable,  and  used  for  clock  springs. 
Ten  parts  of  aluminium  and  90  of  copper 
give  a  hard  alloy,  but  nevertheless 
ductile.  It  takes  a  high  polish,  resem- 
bles gold  and  is  but  little  attacked  by 
ammonium  hydrosulphide. 

Aluminium  Jironses  contain  from  6 
to  10  per  cent,  of  aluminium.  They 
are  prepared  by  fusing  chemically  pure 
copper  with  aluminium.  Aluminium 
bronze,  consisting  of  90  parts  of  copper 
and  10  of  aluminium,  is  used  more  than 
any  other  composition.  It  gives  sharp 
castings,  is  more  easily  worked  than 
steel,  may  be  engraved,  rolled  in  sheets, 
and  when  exposed  to  the  air  suffers 
less  change  than  brass,  silver,  cast- 
iron  or  steel.  It  is  serviceable  for  orna- 
mental articles,  household  utensils, 
parts  of  geodetical  and  astronomical 
instruments,  pivots,  gun  and  cannon 
barrels.  Aluminium  bronze  can  only 
be  soldered  with  an  aluminium  alloy. 

Aluminium  Alloy  for  Soldering  Alu- 
minium. I.  Melt  20  parts  of  alumin- 
ium in  a  crucible.  Then  add  gradu- 
ally 80  part  of  zinc,  and  when  this  is 
melted  some  fat.  Stir  the  mass  with 
an  iron  rod  and  pour  into  moulds. 

II.  Take  15  parts  of  aluminium  and 
85  of  zinc. 

III.  Or,  12  parts  of  aluminium  and 
88  of  zinc. 

IV.  Or,  8  parts  of  aluminium  and 
92  of  zinc.     All  these  alloys  are  pre- 
pared as  indicated  above. 

The  flux  consists  of  a  mixture  of  3 
parts  of  copaiba  balsam,  1  of  Venetian 
turpentine  and  a  few  drops  of  Icrnon 
juice.  The  soldering  iron  is  dipped 
into  this  mixture. 

Silver  and  Aluminium,  are  very 
easily  alloyed.  The  alloys  are  harder 
than  aluminium,  but  more  easily 
worked. 

An  alloy  of  3  parts  of  silver  and  97 
of  aluminium  has  a  beautiful  color, 
and  is  not  affected  by  ammonium  hydro- 
sulphide. 

Equal  parts  by  weight  of  silver  and 
aluminium  give  an  alloy  as  hard  as 
bronze. 

An  alloy  of  5  parts  of  silver  and  100 


of  aluminium  can  be  worked  like  pure 
aluminium.  It  is  harder  than  the  lat- 
ter, and  takes  a  very  high  polish. 

An  alloy  with  one-tenth  per  cent,  of 
gold  is  as  ductile  as  pure  aluminium, 
but  harder,  although  not  as  hard  as 
that  with  5  parts  of  silver. 

An  alloy  of  95  per  cent,  of  aluminium 
and  5  of  silver  is  white,  elastic  and 
hard.  It  is  used  for  blades  of  dessert 
and  fruit  knives. 

Gold  and  A  luminium.  99  parts  of 
gold  and  1  of  aluminium  give  a  very 
hard  but  not  ductile  alloy,  possessing 
the  color  of  green  gold. 

An  alloy  of  90  parts  of  gold  and  10 
of  aluminium  is  white,  crystalline  and 
brittle. 

Ninety-five  parts  of  gold  and  5  of  alu- 
minium give  an  alloy  as  brittle  as 
glass. 

An  alloy,  the  color  of  which  re- 
sembles gold  so  closely  as  to  defy  de- 
tection, is  obtained  by  fusing  together 
90  to  100  parts  of  copper,  5  to  7i  of 
aluminium,  and  2^  of  gold.  The  re- 
sulting alloy  is  used  for  jewelry  as  a 
substitute  for  gold. 

Zinc  and  Aluminium.  These  alloys 
are  very  hard  and  take  a  beautiful 
polish.  3  parts  of  zinc  and  97  of  alu- 
minium give  an  alloy  as  white  as  the 
pure  metal,  very  ductile  and  harder 
than  aluminium.  It  is  the  best  of  all 
alloys  of  zinc  with  aluminium. 

An  alloy  of  30  parts  of  aluminium 
and  70  of  zinc  is  white,  very  brittle 
and  crystalline. 

Tin  and  aluminium  give  brittle  al- 
loys when  they  contain  little  tin  and 
much  aluminium,  but  those  with  a 
small  quantity  of  the  latter  are  very 
ductile,  and  may  be  used  as  substitutes 
for  tin.  They  are  harder  and  moro 
elastic. 

An  alloy  of  3  parts  of  aluminium 
and  100  of  tin  is  hard,  and  but  little 
affected  by  acids. 

Five  parts  of  aluminium  and  95  to 
100  of  tin  give  a  useful  alloy. 

With  bismuth  and  platinum  alu- 
minium gives  very  brittle  alloys. 

Lead  and  aluminium  do  not  alloy. 

With  iron  aluminium  alloys  so  easily 
that  the  iron  rods  used  in  preparing 
aluminium  become  coated  with  a  lus- 
trous covering,  giving  them  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  tinned. 


ALLOYS. 


According  to  Tissier,  a  slight  per- 
centage of  iron  exerts  an  injurious  in- 
fluence upon  aluminium.  He  claims 
that  5  per  cent,  makes  the  aluminium 
hard  and  biittle,  and  so  refractory  that 
the  pure  metal  can  be  fused  upon  the 
alloy.  Debray,  on  the  other  hand, 
asserts  that  7  to  9  per  cent,  of  iron  pro- 
duces no  perceptible  change  in  the 
properties  of  aluminium.  Iron  can  be 
easily  separated  from  aluminium  by 
fusing  the  alloy  with  saltpetre,  which 
oxidizes  the  iron. 

Royer  claims  that  the  presence  of 
aluminium  in  steel  makes  it  very 
hard,  and  gives  to  it  the  properties 
of  "wootz,"  or  Indian  steel.  When 
steel  contains  but  0.008  per  cent,  of 
aluminium,  the  articles  manufactured 
from  it,  when  etched  with  sulphuric 
acid,  will  show  wavy  lines  like  Da- 
mascus steel. 

A  mericu  n  Sleigh  Bells.  These  bells, 
excelling  in  beauty,  fine  tone  and  small 
specific  weight,  are  manufactured  by 
fusing  together  10  parts  of  nickel  and 
60  parts  of  copper.  When  this  alloy 
has  become  cold,  add  10  parts  of  zinc 
and  two-fifths  parts  of  aluminium,  fu.se 
the  mass  and  allow  it  to  cool ;  then 
remelt  it  with  the  addition  of  two- 
fifths  parts  of  mercury  and  60  parts 
of  melted  copper. 

Platinum  Bronze.  By  alloying  nickel 
with  a  small  quantity  of  platinum,  it 
loses  its  slight  tendency  to  oxidation, 
and  is  not  affected  by  acetic  acid.  To 
prepare  the  alloy,  the  nickel  is  fused 
with  the  platinum  and  definite  quan- 
tities of  tin,  without  the  aid  of  a  flux- 
ing agent.  The  following  alloys  may 
be  used: 

PARTS. 

Plati-          Sil^ 

Nickel,  num.  Tin.  ver. 

For  knives  and  forks    .     100         1  10 

"    bells 100         1  20       2 

"    fancy  articles    .     .     100         £  15 
"    telescopes  and  ope- 
ra glasses .     .     .    100       20  20 


The  following  alloy  will  not  oxidize : 
10  parts  of  brass,  60  of  ni< 


120, 

of  platinum. 
White  Metal. 


nickel,  5  to  10 


Fuse  together  750 
parts  of  copper,  140  of  nickel,  20  of 
black  cobaltic  oxide,  18  of  tin,  72  of 
zinc. 


Alloys  Resembling  Silver.  I.  25  per 
cent,  of  manganese,  55  of  copper,  and 
20  of  zinc. 

II.  5  per  cent,  of  manganese,  10  of 
nickel,  45  of  copper,  and  40  of  zinc. 

III.  5  per  cent,  of  iron,  20  of  man- 
ganese, 6.5  of  nickel,  and  57  of  copper. 

J\>K.'  Sic/eel  A  Hoy.  Fuse  together  in  a 
reverberatory  furnace  20  cwt.  of  finely 
powdered  nickel  sesquioxide  and  1  to  2 
cwt.  of  copper  with  2  cwt.  of  fluor- 
spar, or  1  cwt.  of  cryolite  and  2  cwt. 
of  anthracite  coal.  Purify  the  result- 
ing alloy  in  any  known  manner. 

A  nickel  alloy  in  great  demand  for 
technical  purposes  has  been  prepared 
by  Cliristoflc  and  Bowilhet.  It  consists 
of  50  per  cent,  of  nickel  and  50  of 
copper,  can  be  easily  remelted,  and  is 
especially  adapted  for  the  manufacture 
of  argetan  (German  silver).  An  alloy 
with  15  per  cent,  of  nickel  is  remark- 
able for  its  ductility,  homogeneity  and 
white  color.  It  can  be  rolled  out  into 
sheets  about  one-twentieth  millimetre 
(0.019  inch)  thick,  and  drawn  out  into 
wire  of  any  desired  diameter.  It  is 
used  for  ornaments  of  every  kind. 

Lntecine,  or  Paris  Metal.  Eight 
hundred  parts  of  copper,  160  of  nickel, 
20  of  tin,  10  of  cobalt,  5  of  iron,  and  5 
of  zinc. 

A  new  and  very  Fusible  Alloy.  Fuse 
a  mixture  of  79  per  cent,  of  cast-iron, 
19.50  of  tin,  and  1.50  of  lead.  This 
alloy  has  a  beautiful  appearance,  fills 
the  mould  completely,  and  is  therefore 
well  adapted  for  casting  small  articles. 
It  is  malleable  to  a  certain  extent. 

Wood's  metal,  fusing  below  158°  F., 
consists  of: 

PARTS. 


I.  II.  III.  IV. 

Bismuth     .     .     .     49.87  49.89  49.81  49.72 

Lead 26.81  26.73  26.80  26.'.)0 

Tin 13.25  13.36  13.53  13.41 

Cadmium    .     .     .     10.13  9.93  9.69  10.10 


According  to  Lipowits,  an  alloy  con- 
sisting of  3  parts  of  cadmium,  4  of  tin, 
8  of  lead,  and  15  of  bismuth,  becomes 
soft  between  122°  and  140°  F.,  and  en- 
tirely liquid  at  140°  F. ;  while  Wood 
found  that  the  mixture  most  easily 
fusible  became  sufficiently  liquid  for 
casting  purposes  at  159.8°  *F.  and  con- 
gealed at  150°  F.,  and  therefore  he  fixed 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


its  melting  point  as  between  150°  and 
159.8°  F.  The  following  proportions 
give  the  lowest  melting  points  in  both 
150°  F.  or  very  close  to  it : 

•  PARTS. 


Cadmium 
Tin  .  . 
Lead  .  . 
Bismuth . 


Type  Metal.  The  following  are 
some  of  the  principal  alloys  made  for 
this  purpose : 


PARTS. 

. 

! 

Type  Metal. 

. 

| 

i 

"£ 
^ 

~1 

1 

"c 

a 

1 

s  i? 

II 

Ordinary  . 
French     . 

75-80 
55 

20-25 
30 

15 

0.4 

English    . 

No.  I     . 

55 

22.7 

22.3 

English     . 

No.  2     . 

61.3 

18.5 

20.7 

English    . 

No.  3     . 

69.2 

19.5 

9.1 

1.7 

Ehrhardt's 

No.  1     . 

3 

4 

4 

80 

Ehrhardt's 

No.  2     . 

2 

3 

2    93 

Besley's    . 

100 

30 

20 

8 

8 

5    2 

Caiubrien's 

50 

Alloy  for  Music- Printing  Plates,  etc. 
Ten  parts  of  tin,  12  of  zinc,  3  of  anti- 
mony regulus,  1  of  copper,  and  74  of 
lead.  Jean,  who  introduced  this  corn- 
pound,  calls  it  "heterogeneous  al- 
loy." 

Spence's  Metal.  This  new  com- 
pound, discovered  by  Spence,  and  used 
in  England  for  manifold  purposes,  is 
obtained  by  melting  the  three  sulphides 
of  iron,  zinc  and  lead  Avith  sulphur. 
The  product  is  a  dark  gray  mass  of 
great  tenacity,  small  power  of  conduct- 
ing heat,  a  specific  gravity  of  3.4,  and 
melting  point  at  about  320°  F.  In 
congealing  it  expands  like  bismuth 
and  type  metal,  and  resists  in  a  remark- 
able degree  the  action  of  atmospheric 
influences,  alkalies  and  acids,  even  of 
aqua  regia ;  its  surface  being  scarcely 
affected  after  having  been  exposed  to 
the  action  of  the  latter  for  four  weeks. 
Its  property  of  expanding  in  congeal- 


ing, and  therefore  filling  completely  all 
depressions  of  the  mould,  makes  it  par- 
ticularly available  for  castings.  If  the 
compound  is  poured  upon  a  plate  on 
which  the  impression  of  the  hand  has 
been  made,  the  cast  will  show  all  the 
lines  and  pores  of  the  palm. 

In  England  it  has  been  lately  used 
for  jointing  gas  and  water  pipes. 

New  Alloys  for  Journal  Boxes. 

Babbitt's    English  White 

Metal.  Metal. 

,     .       5  per  cent.    33.0  per  cent. 
4 


Lead      .     .    . 

Copper  .  .  . 
Zinc  .  .  . 
Antimony .  . 
Tin  .... 
Specific  gravity 
Melting  point 


3 

19 

8.32 


170°  F. 


2.4 
1.0 
10.6 
53.0 
7.22 


290°  F. 


Alloys  for  Dental  Purjioses. 
PARTS. 


A.           B.  C. 

Tin 91.63  36.78  51.72 

Silver 3.82  48.32  34.35 

Copper 4.4 

Gold 14.72 

Mercury 8.52 

Manganese  Bronze.  Fifty  per  cent,  of 
sesquioxide  of  manganese,  35  of  cupric 
oxide,  15  of  coal,  all  finely  powdered. 
To  this  are  added  2i  to  10  parts  of 
organic  substance,  as  tar,  starch  (2 
parts  of  starch  and  3  of  water),  etc. 

Alloys  which  can  be  rolled  when  at 
a  red  heat  consist  of: 

PARTS. 

T.        ii.      in? 

Manganese     ....     2550      13.00      22.25 

Copper 54.50      55.50      52.25 

Zinc 20.00      31.50      25.50 

If  it  is  not  necessary  for  the  alloy  to  be 
rolled  while  red  hot,  iron  may  advan- 
tageously be  introduced.  The  follow- 
ing proportions  may  be  used : 

I.  II. 

Iron    .     .     .      5.88  per  cent.  5.00  per  cent. 

Manganese  .     26.35         "  20.00 

Copper     .     .     56.00         "  57.00 

Zinc     .     .     .     11.77         "  11.50        " 

Nickel      .     .  6.50 

The  alloys  are  very  white,  and,  when 
cast  and  worked,  give  a  very  clear  tone, 
making  them  available  for  spoons  and 
forks. 


ALLOYS. 


Unalterable  Alloy.  This  is  used  for 
objects  of  art,  imitation  jewelry,  etc.  It 
has  a  yellowish-red  tint,  and  when 
treated  with  polysulphides,  chloride  of 
antimony,  chloride  of  arsenic,  etc.,  it 
becomes  coated  with  a  black  patina, 
capable  of  being  polished.  It  consists 
of  70  to  73  per  cent,  of  copper,  2  to  11 
of  tin,  15  to  20  of  lead,  0.5  to  1  of  zinc. 

Chinese  and  Japanese  Bronzes.  Some 
bronzes  exhibited  at  the  last  Paris  Ex- 
hibition attracted  especial  attention, 
not  only  on  account  of  their  artistic 
beauty,  but  also  on  account  of  the  un- 
usually deep  bronze  color,  which  in 
many  specimens  presented  a  beautiful 
dead  black  appearance.  The  color, 
which  was  doubtless  intended  to  con- 
trast with  the  silver  of  the  filigree  work, 
was  proved  to  belong  to  the  substance 
proper  of  the  bronze,  and  not  to  have 
been  artificially  produced  by  an  ap- 
plication upon  its  surface.  Analysis 
of  the  different  specimens  of  the  bronze 
gave  the  following  results : 

PARTS. 


I.  II.  III. 

Tin         4.36  5.52  7.27 

Copper 82.72  72.09  72.32 

Lead 9.9  20.31  14  f>9 

Iron 0.55  1.73  0.28 

Zinc 1.86  0.67  6.00 

\rsenic traces 


99.39    100.32    100.46 

These  alloys  contain  a  much  larger 
proportion  of  lead  than  is  found  in 
ordinary  bronze;  and  it  is  noticeable 
that  the  quantity  of  lead  augments  pre- 
cisely with  the  intensity  of  the  bronze 
color,  proving,  as  before  stated,  that  the 
latter  is  due  to  the  special  composition 
of  the  bronze. 

Some  of  the  specimens  contain  a  con- 


siderable proportion  of  zinc,  but   the 
presence  of  this  metal,  i: 


instead  of  im- 


proving the  appearance,  seemed  rather 
to  counterbalance  the  effect  of  the  lead. 
In  imitation  of  the  Chinese  bronze, 
some  alloys  were  made  of  the  following 
composition : 

I.  II. 

Tin 5.5  parts.      5.0  parts. 

Copper 72.5      "  83.0      " 

Lead 20.0      "  10.0      " 

Iron 1.5      " 

Zinc 0.5     "          2.0      " 


No.  I.  produced  an  alloy  exceed- 
ingly difficult  to  work,  ana,  without 
giving  any  superior  results  as  regards 
color,  furnished  castings  which  were 
extremely  brittle. 

No.  II.,  on  the  contrary,  gave  an 
alloy  exactly  resembling  the  Chinese 
bronze.  Its  fracture  and  polish  Were 
identical,  and  when  heated  in  a  muffle 
it  quickly  assumed  the  peculiar  dead- 
black  appearance  so  greatly  admired 
in  the  Chinese  specimens. 

Hitherto  it  has  been  found  difficult, 
if  not  impossible,  to  obtain  this  depth 
of  color  with  bronzes  of  modern  art; 
since  the  surface  scales  off  when  heated 
under  similar  conditions. 

Bronze  for  Objects  of  Art.  The  pro- 
portions used  by  Keller  Bros.,  during 
the  time  of  Louis  XIV.,  are  generally 
employed  in  Paris  at  the  present  day. 
The  bronze  consists  of  91.60  per  cent,  of 
copper,  5.33  of  zinc,  1.70  of  tin,  and  1.37 
of  lead.  Somewhat  more  zinc  is  taken 
for  articles  to  be  gilded. 

Chinese  Silver.  2.05  parts  of  silver. 
65.24  of  copper,  19.52  of  zinc,  13  of 
nickel,  0.12  of  cobalt  and  iron.  Uten- 
sils of  every  kind  manufactured  from 
this  alloy  are,  it  is  claimed,  preferable 
to  silver,  as  they  are  not  affected  by 
boiling  vinegar,  as  is  the  case  with 
genuine  and  German  silver. 

Composition  for  Metal  Stop  Cocks 
which  deposits  no  Verdigris.  Seventy- 
two  parts  of  zinc,  21  of  tin,  and  7  of 
copper. 

Alloy  for  Anti-friction  Brasses. 
Eighty  parts  of  zinc,  14  of  tin,  5  of 
copper,  and  1  of  nickel. 

Fenton's  Alloy  for  Axle  Boxes  for  Lo- 
comotives and  Wagons.  Eighty  parts 
of  zinc,  5}  of  copper,  14V  of  tin.  This 
alloy  may  be  recommended  as  regards 
cheapness  and  lightness.  Experiments 
have  shown  that  boxes  of  this  alloy 
require  but  half  as  much  oil  for  lubri- 
cating as  others.  The  components  can 
be  melted  in  an  ordinary  iron  boiler, 
and  the  alloy  is  less  difficult  to  work 
than  brass. 

ENGLISH  COPPER  ALLOYS, 

Brass.  Thirty  parts  of  zinc  and  70 
of  copper,  in  small  pieces. 

Brass  for  Turned  Articles.  One 
hundred  parts  of  copper,  50  parts  of 
zinc,  and  i35  to  1^  parts  of  lead. 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Red  Bronze  for  Turned  Articles. 
One  hundred  and  twenty  parts  of  cop- 
per, 25  parts  of  zinc,  2£  parts  of  lead. 
The  lead  is  added  during  casting. 

Another  Receipt.  Eighty  parts  of 
copper,  25  of  zinc,  5  of  lead,  and  1.3  of 
antimony. 

First  Quality  of  Bronze  for  Castings. 
One  hundred  and  twenty  parts  of  cop- 
per, 25  of  zinc,  tu  of  bismuth. 

Ordinary  Bronze  for  Castings.  One 
hundred  parts  of  copper,  t>i  of  zinc, 
12*  of  tin. 

Bronze  for  Hard  Castings.  Twenty- 
five  parts  of  copper,  2  of  zinc,  4£  of 
tin, 

Bronze.  Seven  parts  of  copper,  3  of 
zinc,  and  2  of  tin ;  or,  1  part  of  copper, 
12  of  zinc,  and  8  of  tin. 

Coin  Metal.  Six  parts  of  copper 
and  4  of  tin.  This  alloy  can  be  rolled, 
and  is  treated  warm. 

Metal  for  Gongs  and  Bells.  One 
hundred  parts  of  copper  with  about 
25  of  tin.  To  give  this  alloy  a  very 
clear  tone,  the  castings  are  heated,  and 
then  dipped  in  cold  water. 

Another  Receipt.  A  composition  of 
78  parts  of  copper  and  22  of  tin  gives 
very  satisfactory  results,  and  can  be 
rolled. 

Bell  Metal  (Best  Quality).     Seventy- 
one  parts  of  copper,  26  of  tin,  2  of  zinc,  j 
and  1  of  iron. 

For  Large  Bells.    One  hundred  parts 
of  copper  and  20  to  25  of  tin. 
•   For  Small  Bells.     Three    parts  of 
copper  and  1  of  tin. 

Bronze  for  Cocks.  Twenty  parts  of 
copper,  8  of  lead, i  of  litharge,  li  of  an- 
timony. 

Statuary  Bronze.  91.4  parts  of  cop- 
per, 5.53  of  zinc,  1.7  of  tin,  1.37  of  lead ; 
or,  80  parts  of  copper  and  20  of  tin. 

Bronze  for  Medals.  Fifty  parts  of 
copper  and  4  of  tin. 

Jironzefor  Rivets.  Sixty-four  parts 
of  copper  and  1  of  tin. 

Bronze  for  Ornaments.  Eighty-two 
parts  of  copper,  3  of  tin,  18  of  zinc,  2 
of  lead ;  or,  83  parts  of  copper,  17  of 
zinc,  1  of  tin,  and  £  of  lead. 

New  Alloy  Resembling  Gold.  (Pat- 
ented by  Meiffren  of  Marseilles. )  Eight 
hundred  parts  of  copper,  25  of  plati- 
num, and  20  of  tungstic  acid  are  melted 


together  with  a  flux  in  a  crucible.  The 
mass,  when  melted,  is  granulated  by 
pouring  it  into  alkaline  water.  The 
alloy  is  then  melted  with  170  parts  of 
gold. 

To  Prepare  an  Alloy  Resembling 
Silver.  Sixty-five  parts  of  iron  are 
melted  with  4  of  tungstic  acid,  and 
granulated ;  and  also  23  parts  of  nickel, 
5  of  aluminium,  and  5  of  copper.  To 
avoid  oxidation,  a  piece  of  sodium  is 
placed  in  the  crucible.  The  granulated 
metals  are  then  melted  together.  This 
alloy  resists  the  action  of  hydrogen 
sulphide. 

Alloy  for  Imitation  Gold  and  Silver 
Wires.  In  place  of  copper,  generally 
used,  Helouis  of  Paris  employs  argen- 
tan,  composed  as  follows :  70  per  cent, 
of  copper,  15  of  nickel,  and  15  of  zinc. 
From  this  alloy  he  has  drawn  wire  as 
fine  as  0.01  inch  in  diameter. 

Min argent.  This  new  alloy  contains 
100  parts  of  copper,  70  of  nickel,  5  of 
tungsten,  and  1  of  aluminium. 


PAKTS. 

!  Composition  of  some 
Alloys. 

1 

c 

1 

I 

JL 

g 

s 

£ 

Ordinary  sheet  brass 

and  wire.  N<>.  1    . 

70 

30 

Ordinary  sheet  brass 
and  wire,  No.  2   . 

64.8 

0.4 

32.8 

2 

Brass  of  a  light  yel- 

low color     .     .     .     66.6 

33.3 

Tombac      .... 

83.4 

16.6 

Red  brass  .... 

91 

9 

Bell  metal      .     .     . 

80 

20 

Gun  metal  and  med- 

al bronze     .     .     . 

90 

10 

Alloy  for  journal 

boxes,  soft  . 

82 

16 

2 

Allov  for  journal 

boxes,  hard      .     .    122.2 

33.3 

44.4 

Alloy  for  valves  and 

piston  rings     .     . 

80 

60 

1.25 

Alloy  for  chilled 

work  No.  1 

5 

85 

10 

Alloy  for  chilled 

work  No.  2      .     . 

5.5 

14.5 

80 

Alloy  for  chilled 

work  No.  :i     .    . 

2 

80 

18 

Alloy  for  chilled 

work  white,  and 

I 

brittle     .     .     .    j 

13.3  73  3 

13.4 

Alloy  for  gongs  .     . 
Statuary  metal    .     . 

80      20 
91.4     1.7 

5.33 

1.37 

ARTIFICIAL  GEMS. 


9 


ARTIFICIAL  GEMS,  PEARLS,  AND 
TURKISH  BEADS. 

The  art  of  imitating  gems  consists 
simply  in  the  production  of  a  glass 
possessing  greater  hardness  and  density 
than  the  ordinary  product,  and  colored 
to  simulate  the  precious  stones.  These 
properties  are  imparted  to  the  flux, 
partly  by  special  treatment,  partly  by 
admixtures,  but  principally  by  the 
purity  of  the  substances  used.  Besides 
the  essential  components,  lead  oxide, 
minium,  etc.,  are  added  to  the  fluxes. 
These  impart  greater  density  to  the 
glass,  more  lustre  and  specific  gravity. 
But  too  much  lead  oxide  must  be 
avoided,  as  it  disintegrates  the  surface 
and  spoils  the  lustre.  A  great  degree 
of  hardness  can  be  obtained  by  using 
large  proportions  of  silica,  but  the  flux 
becomes  refractory,  to  prevent  which 
borax  is  added. 

The  following  requisites  will  be  neces- 
sary for  mixing  a  good  flux : 


1.  Pure  silica.     It  is  best  to  use  for  this  finely- 

powdered  r«ck  crystal. 

2.  Pure  potash  or  soda. 

3.  Borax. 

4.  Lead  oxide,  carbonate,  or  minium. 

5.  A   little  saltpetre,   partly  to  promote    the 

fusion,  but  especially  to  destroy  by  oxida- 
tion any  carbonaceous  impurities  which 
might  injure  the  color. 

6.  A  metallic  oxide  to  give  color  to  the  flux  ; 

but  of  this  usually  very  little  must  be 
taken. 

It  is  best  to  fuse  the  mass  in  a  new 
Hessian  crucible.  It  is  filled  about 
half  full  with  the  flux,  which  has  been 
finely  powdered  and  sifted  through  a 
fine  sieve,  and  is  then  covered  with  a 
clay  plate. 

The  glass-melting  furnace  manufac- 
tured by  Th.  Jesem,  of  Berlin,  is  de- 
cidedly the  best  to  use.  It  has  been 
introduced  almost  everywhere,  as  it 
excels  in  suitability  of  construction  and 
cheapness.  Fig.  3  represents  a  cross- 
section  of  this  furnace,  a  is  the  gas- 
conducting  pipe  from  which  the  pipes 
b  b  branch  oft*. 

The  upper  end  of  the  pipes  b  is  bent 
inward.  The  gas  flame  is  under  the 
fire-brick  furnace  k,  the  thick  walls  of 
which  form  the  hearth.  The  bottom 
is  provided  with  an  opening  through 
which  the  gases  enter  into  the  crucible 
A,  placed  exactly  over  it,  in  order  to 


circulate  around  the  actual  crucible/ 
containing  the  flux,  and  resting  upon  a 
support  of  fire-clay  e,  and  the  movable 
"  c.     The  gases,  after  playing  around 
"in  the  cover 


ffl 

/,  pass  out  through  a  hole 


Fig.  3. 

of  the  crucible  h  and  then  around  and 
down  the  walls  of  h  towards  the  escape 
pipe.  The  cover  i  moves  on  a  hinge 
joint. 

Schrader,  who  made  these  combina- 
tions a  special  study  for  many  years, 
uses  the  following  mixture  for  fluxes. 
Powder  and  mix : 

Rock  crystal 29.23  parts. 

Dry  sodium  carbonate    ....    14.61     " 

Calcined  borax 10.96     " 

Minium 7.20     " 

Saltpetre 1.21  to    3.65     ' 

The  mixture  is  fused  in  the  manner 
indicated  above. 

A  harder  flux  is  obtained  by  mixing 
the  following  proportions : 

Hock  crystal 43.84  parts. 

Powdered  dry  sodium  carbonate  .     14.61     ' 
Calcined  and  powdered  borax      .     10.96     " 

Minium 7.'20    •« 

Saltpetre 1,21    '* 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Pure  flint  finely  powdered  may  be 
used  instead  of  rock  crystal,  or  white 
powdered  glass,  but  in  the  latter  ca.se 
some  white  arsenic  must  be  added  to 
obtain  the  frit  entirely  colorless. 

A  flux  so  hard  that  it  will  emit  sparks 
when  struck  with  a  steel  can  be  pre- 
pared from  the  following  substances : 

Powdered  glass 29.23  parts. 

Rock  crystal 10.90 

Minium 10.96 

Calcined  borax 7.20 

Saltpetre 2.43 

Arsenic 0.60 

Donault-  Wieland  recommends  the 
following  proportions : 

PARTS. 


I.        II.      III.     IV. 
Bock  crystal      ...    300      300  HO 

Minium 470      462  1U) 

Potash    purified   with 

alcohol 163      163        96 

Borax 22        18        27        66 

Arsenious  acid   .     .     .        1        %          1          5 
Very  white  sand    .     .  300 

Very  pure  white  lead  .  514 

Saltpetre 22 


These  fluxes    furnish    the 
which  is  the  basis  for  the  manufacture 
of  artificial  gems. 

Ruby.  The  following  mixtures,  ac- 
cording to  Schrader,  are  the  best  for 
manufacturing  imitations  of  this  beau- 
tiful gem.  Powder  and  mix : 


PARTS. 


Bock  crystal  .  .  . 
Pry  sodium  carbonate 
Calcined  borax 
Saltpetre  .... 
Purple  of  Cassius  . 
Antimony  trisulphide 
Manganese  peroxide 

Minium 

Sal  ammoniac  . 


I. 

29.23 
14.61 
10.96 
5.47 
3.65 
0.48 
0.48 
10.96 


II. 

29.23 
14.61 

4.84 
2.43 
0.91 


3.65 

D.  (7.  Splittyerber  gives  the  following 
receipt  for  a  beautiful  ruby  glass : 

Fine  white  quartz  sand  ....  1650.0  parts. 

Dry  white  soda 966.6  " 

Chalk,  marble,  or  calcium  car- 
bonate    433.3  " 

White  arsenic 133.3  " 

Minium 150.0  " 

Antimony  bisulphide      ....  133.3  " 

Mix  the  sand  intimately  with  a  solu- 
tion of  a  ducat  (about  two  dollars  gold 
value)  and  then  add  the  other  ingre- 
dients. Expose  the  mixture  for  thirty 


hours  to  a  white  heat  in  a  plate-glass 
furnace.  When  poured  out  and  cold  it 
is  entirely  colorless  and  transparent, 
and  only  assumes  a  beautiful  ruby  color 
after  heating  to  a  moderate  red  heat, 
932°  F.  If  exposed  to  a  very  strong 
heat  it  acquires  a  liver  color.  Glass 
prepared  with  purple  of  Cassius  has  a 
more  violet  shade  of  color. 
Sapphire.  Powder  and  mix : 


PARTS. 


Bock  crystal 43.84 

Sodium  carbonate     ....  21.92 

Calcined  borax 7.20 

Minium 7.20 

Saltpetre 3.65 

Cobalt  carbonate 0.06 

Copper  carbonate 


II. 
2!i.23 
14.61 
10.96 
5.47 
1.82 

1.82 


Emerald.  This  is  prepared  with 
copper  and  iron.  Powder  and  mix : 

Bock  crystal 43.84  parts. 

Dry  sodium  carbonate    ....  21.92  •' 

Calcined  borax 7.20  " 

Minium 7.20  " 

Saltpetre -    .    .     .  3.65  " 

Red  ferric  oxide 1.21  ' 

Green  copper  carbonate  ....  0.60  " 

A  beautiful  green  is  obtained  by 
using  the  following  ingredients.  Pow- 
der and  mix : 

Bock  crystal 43.84paits. 

Dry  sodium  carbonate    ....  14.61  " 

Calcined  borax 7.20  " 

Minium 7.20  " 

Saltpetre 2.43  " 

Cobalt  carbonate 0.09  " 

Chrome  green 0.30  " 

Uranic  oxide,  which,  as  a  general 
rule,  gives  yellow  colors  shading  only 
slightly  into  green,  furnishes  an  emer- 
ald green  when  used  in  the  following 
proportions.  Powder  and  mix : 

Rock  crystal     .     . 36.  J  3  parts. 

Dry  sodium  carbonate    ....  1U.96  " 

Minium I.'M  " 

Saltpetre 3.65  " 

Uranic  oxide 2.43  " 

Green  copper  carbonate      .     .     .  0.18  " 

Stannic  oxide 0.18  " 

Calcined  bones 0.18  «' 

Chrysoprase.  The  following  mixture 
is  decidedly  the  best  for  imitating  the 
transparent,  apple-green  color  of  Jiis 
stone.  Powder  and  mix : 


ARTIFICIAL  GEMS. 


11 


Bock  crystal 43.84  parts. 

Dry  sodium  carbonate    ....  14. 01     " 

Calcined  borax 10.90     " 

Minium 7.20 

Saltpetre 1.21 

Calcined  bones 7.20 

Copper  carbonate 0.12 

Ferric  oxide 0.24 

Chrome  green 0.36 

This  mixture  gives  the  dark  chryso- 
prase. 

A  lighter  shade  is  obtained  by  taking 
one-quarter  of  the  three  metallic  oxides, 
but  retaining  the  same  proportions  of 
the  other  ingredients.  Several  differ- 
ent shades  can  be  produced  by  varying 
the  proportions  of  the  three  metallic 
oxides. 

Opal.    Powder  and  mix : 

Rock  crystal 32.29  parts. 

Sodium  carbonate 10.96     " 

Calcined  borax 7.20    " 

Minium 5.47 

Saltpetre 0.91 

Purple  of  Cassias 0.06 

Calcined  bones 0.09 

Silver  chloride 0.12 

Beryl,  or  Aqua  Marine.  Powder 
and  mix : 

Rock  crystal 43.84  parts. 

Sodium  carbonate 14.61 

Calcined  borax 10.9  > 

Minium 7.20 

Saltpetre 3.65 

Ferric  oxide 0.36 

Copper  carbonate 0.12 

Instead  of  the  last  two  ingredients 
the  following  may  be  used : 

Ferric  oxide 0.24  parts. 

Cobalt  carbonate 0.01     " 

Hyacinth.  Antimony  trioxide  and 
antimony  trisulphide  have  been  recom- 
mended for  this.  By  adding  to  this 
mixture  manganese,  or  manganese  with 
some  iron, 

Garnet  is  obtained  as  follows :  Pow- 
der and  mix : 

Rock  crystal 32.20  parts. 

Sodium  carbonate 10.!><>  " 

Calcined  borax 7.u:5  " 

Minium 5.47  " 

Saltpetre 2.43  " 

Pyrolusite 0.30  " 

Ferric  oxide 0.18  " 

If  a  brighter  color  is  desired  add  0.06 
parts  of  purple  of  Cassius  to  the  mix- 
ture. 


Tourmaline  of  a  reddis h  -  brown 
Color  is  obtained  by  using  nickel. 
Powder  and  mix : 

Rock  crystal 29.23  parts. 

Sodium  carbonate 14.61     " 

Calcined  borax 10.96    " 

Minium 5.47     " 

Saltpetre 5.47     " 

Nickel  sesquioxide 0.48     " 

Tourmaline  of  a  greenish-blue  Color. 
This  is  obtained  by  powdering  and 
mixing : 


Glass  .     .     .     . 
Rock  crystal 
Minium  .     .     . 
Calcined  borax 
Saltpetn 


....  58  44  parts. 

....  21.92      " 

....  21.92      " 

....  14.61      " 

....  2.43      " 

Cobalt  carbonate 0.09      " 

Topaz  and  Chrysolite  may  accident- 
ally be  obtained  if  iron  should  be 
present  in  the  mixture.  They  may  also 
be  produced  by  using  0.30  parts  of  yel- 
low uranic  oxide  in  the  above  mixture, 
instead  of  cobaltic  oxide. 

Chrysolite.  A  good  dark  chrysolite 
is  obtained  by  powdering  and  mixing : 

Rock  crystal 21.92  parts. 

Sodium  carbonate 7.20      " 

Calcined  borax 5.47      " 

Minium 3.65      " 

Saltpetre 0.60      " 

Pyrolusite 0.12      " 

Amethyst  is  prepared  by  using  radi- 
ated pyrplusite,  but  not  more  than  0.06 
parts  of  it  must  be  taken  for  a  frit  pro- 
ducing about  30  parts  of  flux.  Pow- 
dered glass  in  the  proportion  of  30  parts, 
3.65  of  saltpetre,  and  some  borax  and 
minium  gives  also  a  good  imitation  of 
the  amethyst. 

Lapis  Lazuli.  This  is  produced  by 
using  a  cobalt  flux,  to  which  is  added 
some  admixture  which  will  dim  the 
mass.  Powder  and  mix : 

Rock  crystal 21 .92  parts. 

Sodium  carbonate 7.20      " 

Calcined  borax 5.47 

Minium 3.65 

Saltpetre 1.00 

Calcined  bones 3.65 

Cobaltic  oxide 0.12 

Agate  can  be  imitated  by  allowing 
fragments  of  different  fluxes  to  run  to- 
gether, stirring  the  mass  in  the  mean- 
while. 


12 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Schroder  has  obtained  several  varie- 
ties of  agate  by  mixing  about  1.82  parts 
of  ferric  oxide  with  43.84  of  flux. 

R.  Wagner  suggests  the  following 
method  of  producing  artificial  gems: 
2  parts  of  pure  silica  (rock  crystal),  1 
of  calcined  soda,  J  of  anhydrous  borax, 
^s  of  lead  oxide  (massicot),  are  rubbed 
together  as  intimately  as  possible,  and 
heated  in  a  crucible  for  one  hour  with- 
out allowing  the  mass  to  become 
liquid.  It  is  then  brought  into  fusion 
and  kept  so  for  one  hour,  when  it  is 
allowed  to  congeal.  It  is  then  moder- 
ately heated  for  24  hours,  and  the  re- 
sulting flux  taken  from  the  crucible, 
cut  and  ground. 

This  forms  the  base  for  the  flux  of 
the  artificial  gems.  The  following 
minerals  'are  added  as  coloring  sub- 
stances : 

Blue:  Cobaltic  oxide. 
Yellow:  Antimony  pentoxide. 
Green:  Cupric  oxide. 
Red :  Purple  of  Cassius. 
Violet :  Black  oxide  of  manganese. 
A  rtificial  Pearls.  Geissler's  Process. 
The  principal  constituents  of  these 
pearls  are  hollow  glass  beads,  silver 
from  the  scales  of  Cymrinus  albuonus 
(a  species  of  carp),  fish  glue,  isinglass, 
and  wax.  The  so-called  silver  is  first 
obtained  from  the  scales  of  the  fish, 
cleansed,  mixed  with  the  dissolved 
isinglass,  and  blown  into  the  hollow 
beads  by  means  of  a  special  apparatus. 
While  doing  this  the  beads  must  be 
constantly  revolved  in  order  that  the 
color  may  be  uniformly  deposited  on 
the  sides.  They  are  then  allowed  to 
lie  quietly  for  a  few  days  to  allow  the 
color  to  become  dry  and  hard.  Filling 
the  beads  with  wax  gives  them  a  more 
beautiful  and  pellucid  lustre  and 
greater  durability.  The  manufacture 
of  artificial  pearls  is  tedious,  as  every 
pearl  must  be  handled  five  or  six  times, 
but  as  the  work  can  be  done  by  girls 
and  children,  it  is  possible  to  produce 
them  at  astonishing  low  prices. 

Turkish  Beads.  Dissolve  4  parts  of 
catechu  in  16  of  rose  water.  Strain 
and  reduce  the  solution  by  boiling  to  6 
parts.  Then  add  to  it :  1  part  of  pow- 
dered Florentine  orris  root,  ^0  of  musk, 
20  drops  of  oil  of  bergarnot  or  lavender, 
and  i  part  of  swelled  isinglass,  and 
knead  the  whole  to  a  paste.  Form  of 


this,  first,  round  sticks,  and  then  small 
balls,  either  in  the  hollow  of  the  hand 
or  by  a  special  machine.  Pierce  the 
balls  with  a  needle  dipped  in  oil  of 
almonds  or  of  jasmine.  Then  pour  oil 
of  alrnonda  or  of  jasmine  over  them  and 
allow  them  to  dry.  Different  colors 
and  perfumes  can  be  given  to  them  by 
adding  coloring  substances  and  sweet 
smelling  oils. 

BITTERS,  CORDIALS,  ELIXIRS,  LI- 
QUEURS, RATAFIAS  AND  ESSENCKS  ; 
EXTRACTS,  TINCTURES  AND  WA- 
TERS USED  IN  THEIR  MANUFAC- 
TURE, AND  THE  MANNER  OF  COLOR- 
ING THEM. 

Most  of  the  bitters,  cordials,  liqueurs, 
etc.,  are  produced  in  the  cold  way, 
either  by  mixing  a  solution  of  oil  in 
alcohol  with  a  warm  solution  of  sugar 
in  water,  or  by  adding  to  this  solution 
tinctures  or  essences,  and  diluting  the 
mixture  with  the  quantity  of  water 
required.  As  every  cordial  or  liqueur 
appears  turbid  after  mixing  it,  clarifi- 
cation becomes  necessary.  For  ordinary 
qualities  a  solution  of  one-half  ounce  of 
alum  in  a  pint  of  water  for  every  20 
gallons  of  cordial  can  be  recommended, 
and  if  this  has  not  the  desired  effect,  a 
solution  of  one  ounce  of  soda  in  a  pint 
of  water  may  be  added  to  the  same 
quantity  of  cordial.  But  for  the  finer 
brands  it  is  better  to  use  a  solution  of 
4  ounces  of  isinglass  to  a  pint  of  water. 

Mode  of  Coloring  Cordials,  Liqueurs, 
etc.  Cordials  and  liqueurs  should  be 
colored  after  they  have  been  filtered. 
A  large  number  of  cordials  are  not 
colored,  especially  anisette,  bergamot, 
calamus,  cardamon,  caraway,  fennel 
and  maraschino. 

Coffee,  chocolate,  cura9oa,  nut,  and 
most  bitters  are  colored  brown. 

Barbadoes  and  orange  blossoms 
cordials,  dark  yellow  or  orange. 

Anise,  lemon,  orange  and  peach, 
Dale  yellow. 

The  cordials  prepared  from  fresh 
icrbs,  green. 

Cherry,  gold  water,  raspberry,  straw- 
aerry,  rose  and  nutmeg,  red.  We  have 
added  the  color  required  to  most  of  our 
receipts. 

I.  COLORING  SUBSTANCES.  Blue. 
Dissolve  i  ounce  of  finely  powdered 


BITTERS,  CORDIALS,  ESSENCES,  ETC. 


13 


indigo  in  2  ounces  of  sulphuric  acid, 
and  add  6  ounces  of  water  to  the  solu- 
tion. 

Green.  I.  Boil  2  parts  of  liquid 
wash  blue,  1  of  powdered  turmeric; 
add  some  alum  to  the  mixture  and 
filter  it. 

II.  To  obtain  a  fine  green,  mix  the 
tinctures  of  yellow  and  blue  as  given 
under  their  respective  headings. 

Purple.  Boil  archil  in  water,  and 
add  some  alum. 

Red,  I.  Crush  i  ounce  of  cochineal 
and  15  grains  of  alum ;  pour  over  the 
powder  8  ounces  of  boiling  water  and 
filter  the  fluid.  The  color  is  made 
darker  or  lighter  according  to  the 
quantity  of  cochineal  used. 

II.  Macerate  1  Ib.  of  bilberries  in  2 
quarts  of  alcohol  for  2  days,  press  the 
mass  through  a  linen  cloth  and  filter 
the  fluid. 

III.  Macerate    3    ounces    of    finely 
powdered  cochineal  in  3  pints  of  alcohol 
for  2  days,  then  add  \  ounce  of  pow- 
dered alum,  and  filter  the  fluid. 

Yellow.  I.  Macerate  1  ounce  of  genu- 
ine saffron  in  3  pints  of  alcohol,  and 
then  filter  the  fluid. 

II.  Take  a  quantity  of  marigolds 
according  to  the  shade  of  color  to  be 
produced,  steep  them  in  alcohol,  and 
filter  the  fluid,  when  it  has  assumed 
the  desired  shade  of  color. 

II.  ESSENCES,  EXTRACTS,  TINCT- 
URES AND  WATERS.  Absinthe  Tinct- 
ure. Dissolve  2  fluid  drachms  of  oil 
of  wormwood,  1-V  fluid  drachms  of  oil 
of  badian  seed,  li  fluid  drachms  each 
of  oil  of  anise  seed,  oil  of*  fennel  and  oil 
of  coriander  seed  ;  |  fluid  drachm  each 
oil  of  Crete  marjoram  (origan)  and  of 
oil  of  angelica,  and  20  drops  of  oil  of 
cardamon,  2  gallons  of  rectified  spirits 
of  90  per  cent,  Tr. ;  dilute  the  solution 
with  2£  quarts  of  water,  and  color  it 
green. 

Ambergris  Essence.  Pour  12  fluid 
ounces  of  spirit  of  wine  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.  over  1  ounce  of  coarsely  powdered 
ambergris,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  few 
days.  Then  draw  off  the  liquid,  extract 
the  residue  with  spirit  of  wine,  filter 
the  extract,  and  add  it  to  the  other 
portion. 

Angelica  Essence.  Mix  by  shaking 
|  fluid  ounce  of  pure  angelica  oil  with 
1  quart  of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 


Anise-seed  Essence.  Distil  1  pound 
of  crushed  anise  seed,  li  gallons  of 
strong  rectified  spirit,  and  i  pint  of 
water.  Add  to  this  |  fluid  ounce  of 
anise  seed  oil  and  i  gallon  of  rectified 
spirit,  and  clarify  the  mixture  with  1 
ounce  of  alum. 

Anise-seed  Extract.  Dissolve  by 
shaking  40  drops  of  anise  seed  oil, 
4  drops  of  fennel  oil,  and  2  drops  of 
coriander  seed  oil  in  3  pints  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent,  Tr. 

Atiise-seed  Tincture.  Dissolve  2 
fluid  drachms  of  anise  seed  oil  and 
H  fluid  drachms  of  badian  seed  oil  in  2 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr. ;  dilute  the  solution  with  £  gallon 
of  water,  and  color  it  green,  as  above. 

Aromatic  Tincture.  Comminute  6 
ounces  of  zedvary,  4  ounces  each  of 
calamus  root,  galanga  and  angelica 
root,  2V  ounces  of  bay  leaves,  2  ounces 
each  of  cloves,  cinnamon  blossoms  and 
scraped  orange  peel,  3  ounces  of  Roman 
camomile,  i  ounce  of  ginger,  and  i 
ounce  of  mace.  Pour  If  gallons  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over 
the  ingredients,  and  let  them  macerate 
for  8  days,  then  filter,  and  add  40  drops 
of  oil  of  peppermint  and  2&  quarts  of 
water. 

Borbadoes.  Essence.  Mix  25  drops 
of  oil  of  lemon,  25  of  oil  of  bergamot,  6 
each  of  oil  of  cinnamon,  oil  of  cloves 
and  oil  of  nutmeg,  with  1  gallon  of  rec- 
tified spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  shake 
the  mixture  thoroughly,  and  filter  it. 

Berg<nnot  Essence.  Dissolve  i  fluid 
ounce  of  oil  of  bergamot  in  i  gallon  of 
spirit  of  wine  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 

Bitter  Almond  Essence.  Crush  9 
ounces  of  bitter  almonds,  place  them 
into  a  still  with  2|  gallons  of  water,  let 
them  macerate  for  12  hours;  then  add 
2J  gallons  of  spirit  of  wine  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr.,  and  distil  off  a  distillate  75 
per  cent,  strong. 

Or,  Pour  3|  quarts  of  strong  rye 
whiskey  over  1  pound  of  crushed  apri- 
cot kernels,  4  ounces  of  cherry  kernels. 
1  fluid  drachm  of  cloves,  and  i  fluia 
drachm  of  mace,  and  distil  off  3  quarts 
of  essence  of  bitter  almonds,  or  kernel 
extract. 

Or,  Dissolve  1  fluid  drachm  of  oil  of 
bitter  almonds  in  3  quarts  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and  store  the 
fluid  for  some  time  before  using  it. 


14 


TECHNO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Bitter  Essence  (Single}.  Macerate  4 
ounce  of  dried  orange  peel,  i  ounce  of 
calamus  root  cut  in  small  pieces  in  li 
quarts  of  spirit  of  wine  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.  Let  the  mass  stand  for  2  days  and 
then  filter  it. 

B 'ttter  Essence  (Double}.  Comminute 
2 2  ounces  of  leaves  of  common  buck 
bean,  li  ounces  each  of  germander 
water,  dried  orange  peel,  and  leaves  of 
wormwood,  and  \  ounce  each  of  cinna- 
mon and  gentian  root.  Pour  IB  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 
over  the  ingredients  and  let  them  digest 
for  2  days,  when  the  fluid  is  drawn  off 
and  filtered. 

Bitter  Extract  for  Grunewald  Bitters. 
Comminute  2  ounces  of  orange  peel,  i 
ounce  each  of  gentian  root,  leaves  of 
common  buck  bean,  and  galanga,  i 
ounce  of  leaves  of  blessed  thistle,  and  1 
drachm  of  leaves  of  wormwood.  Put 
the  ingredients  in  a  suitable  flask,  pour 
li  gallons  of  spirit  of  wine  90  per  cent, 
strong  over  them,  place  them  in  a  warm 
place  and  let  them  digest.  Then  draw 
off  the  fluid,  press  out  the  residue,  add 
the  extract  to  the  first  fluid,  and  filter 
it  through  porous  paper. 

Calamus  Tincture.  Dissolve  1  fluid 
ounce  of  oil  of  calamus  in  2  quarts  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 

Or,  Comminute  15  ounces  of  calamus 
root  and  1  ounce  of  angelica  root.  Pour 
5  gallons  of  whiskey,  45  per  cent,  strong, 
over  the  roots,  let  them  macerate  for  2 
days,  and  then  distil  off  3  gallons  of 
essence  75  per  cent,  strong. 

Caraway  Essence  (Cumin  Essence}. 
Pour  5  gallons  of  spirits  of  wine,  50  per 
cent,  strong,  over : 

Crushed  caraway  seed 2  Ibs. 

Crushed  anise  seed 1  oz 

Crushed  fennel  seed 1  07. 

Orris  root  cut  in  pieces 1%  oz. 

Powdered  cinnamon %  oz 

Let  the  mass  digest  for  24  hours,  and 
then  distil  off  a  distillate  85  per  cent, 
strong. 

Cardamon  Extract.  Peel  and  com- 
minute 4i  ounces  of  cardamons,  pour  2i 
pints  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.  over  them,  add  and  mix  thoroughly 
with  it  li  fluid  drachms  of  oil  of  carda- 
mon,  and  let  the  entire  mass  digest  for 
2  days,  when  the  fluid  is  drawn  off  and 
filtered. 

Or,  Mix  li  fluid  drachms  of  oil  of 


cardamon  with  li  quarts  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  and  filter  the 
fluid  through  porous  paper. 

Cherry  Extract.  Press  out  the  flesh 
of  ripe  cherries,  let  the  mass  stand 
quietly  in  a  moderately  warm  room 
until  the  pure  juice  has  separated  from 
the  pulp.  Then  place  the  mass  in  a 
bag,  press  the  juice  out,  let  it  stand  for 
a  few  hours  longer,  and  add  an  equal 
quantity  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr. 

Cherry  Water.  Distil  5i  pounds  of 
crushed  cherry  stones  with  7|  gallons 
of  water,  add  4i  to  5  gallons  of  cherries, 
and  distil  off  3  to  4i  gallons  of  cherry 
water. 

Chocolate  Essence.  Pour  2i  quarts 
of  spirit  of  wine  over  12J  ounces  of 
roasted  and  ground  cocoa  beans,  i  ounce 
of  powdered  cinnamon,  and  i  ounce  of 
powdered  cloves;  let  the  ingredients 
digest  and  filter  the  fluid. 

Cinnamon  Essence.  Dissolve  i  fluid 
ounce  of  oil  of  cinnamon  in  li  quarts 
of  rectified  spirit  of  85  per  cent.  Tr.,  and 
filter  the  solution. 

Clove.  Essence.  Comminute  9  ounces 
of  cloves,  pour  li  quarts  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over  them,  let 
them  digest  for  a  few  days,  and  then 
filter  the  fluid. 

Coffee  Essence.  Pour  li  quarts  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over 
5i  ounces  of  finely-roasted  and  ground 
coffee,  let  it  digest  for  some  time,  draw 
off  the  fluid  and  filter  it. 

Cognac  Essence.  Dissolve  3i  fluid 
ounces  of  sulphuric  ether  in  &  gallon  of 
alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 

English  Bitters  Essence.  Comminute 
5  ounce  each  of  leaves  of  wormwood, 
leaves  of  centaury,  and  leaves  of  blessed 
thistle ;  i  ounce  each  of  gentian  root, 
china  root,  and  orange  peel ;  k  ounce  or 
orris  root,  and  1  ounce  of  grains  of  Par- 
adise. Pour  li  quarts  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over  these  in- 
gredients, let  them  digest  for  some  time, 
then  pour  the  fluid  off  and  filter  it. 

fennel  Essence.  Dissolve  1  fluid 
drachm  of  oil  of  fennel,  i  drachm  each 
of  anise  seed  oil  and  oil  of  lemon,  and 
10  drops  of  cumin  oil  in  li  quarts  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 

Gold  Water  Essence.  Dissolve  4 
fluid  drachms  of  oil  of  lemon,  2  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  orange,  1  fluid  drachm 


BITTERS,  CORDIALS,  ESSENCES,  ETC, 


15 


each  of  rose  oil,  oil  of  nutmeg,  and  oil 
of  cinnamon,  i  fluid  drachm  each  of 
oil  of  calamus,  oil  of  lavender,  and  oil 
of  juniper,  and  i  fluid  drachm  of  oil  of 
cloves  in  i  gallon  of  rectified  spirit  of 
90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and  filter  the  solution. 
Herb  Cordial  Essence.  Comminute 

1  ounce  each  of  orange  peel  and  lemon 
peel,  i  ounce  of  calamus  root,  i  ounce 
each  of  juniper  berries,  ginger,   orris 
root,  angelica  root,  and  coriander  seed, 
and  1  ounce  each  of  galauga,  leaves  of 
marjoram,    and    leaves    of    rosemary. 
Pour  1  gallon  of  rectified  spirit  of  90 
per  cent.  Tr.  over  these  ingredients,  let 
them  digest  for  some  time,  then  press 
out  the  fluid  and  filter  it. 

Juniper  Berry  Essence.  Dissolve  1 
to  li  fluid  ounces  of  oil  of  juniper  in  li 
quarts  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.  and  filter  the  solution. 

Or,  Distil  H  pounds  of  crushed  juni- 
per berries,  li  ounces  of  bruised  anise 
seed,  and  3  ounces  of  powdered  cinna- 
mon, with  whiskey  sufficient  to  give  a 
distillate  of  3  gallons  75  per  cent, 
strong. 

Lavender  Essence.  Dissolve  i  fluid 
ounce  of  oil  of  lavender  in  3-i  quarts  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and 
filter  the  solution. 

Lemon  Essence.  Dissolve  2  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  lemon  in  1 J  quarts  of 
rectified  spirit  of  85  per  cent.  Tr.,  and 
shake  the  solution  thoroughly. 

Mace  Extract.  Pour  3i  quarts  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over 

2  ounces  of  mace,  let  it  digest  for  a  few 
days,  and  then  filter  the  fluid. 

Marjoram  Essence.  Dissolve  \  ounce 
of  oil  of  marjoram  in  3£  quarts  of  recti- 
fied spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and  filter 
the  solution. 

Musk  Essence.  Pour  li  pints  of  rec- 
tified spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over  1 
drachm  of  powdered  musk  and  £  drachm 
of  pulverized  gray  ambergris.  Let  the 
ingredients  macerate  for  a  few  days  and 
then  draw  off  the  clear  fluid.  Extract 
the  residue  with  spirit  of  wrine,  filter 
the  extract  and  add  it  to  the  first  por- 
tion. 

Nut  Essence.  Crush  50  large  green 
walnuts,  pour  li  gallons  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over  them,  let 
them  digest  for  a  few  days  and  press 
out  the  fluid.  Distil  the  residue  with 
sufficient  whiskey  to  give  a  distillate  80 


per  cent,  strong,  and  add  this  to  the 
first  essence. 

Nutmeg  Essence.  Comminute  85 
ounces  of  nutmegs,  pour  6  gallons  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over 
them,  let  them  digest  for  a  few  days 
and  then  filter  the  fluid. 

Orange  Blossom  Extract.  Pour  li 
pints  of  boiling  milk  over  10i  ounces 
of  fresh  orange  blossoms;  place  the 
game  on  the  fire  and  let  it  boil  up ;  then 
add  and  thoroughly  mix  with  it  3 
quarts  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.,  and  add  li  quarts  of  champagne 
to  the  filtrate. 

Orange  Blossom  Water.  Distil  11 
pounds  of  preserved  orange  blossoms 
in  6  gallons  of  water,  so  that  the  distil- 
late will  amount  to  3  to  3i  gallons  of 
aromatic  water. 

Orange  blossoms  are  preserved  in  the 
following  manner:  Put  a  handful  of 
salt  on  the  bottom  of  an  earthen  jar, 
place  upon  this  a  layer  of  orange  blos- 
soms, and  repeat  this  alternately  until 
the  jar  is  filled.  By  keeping  the  jar  in 
a  cool  place  the  orange  blossoms  will 
remain  fresh  for  a  long  time.  Rose 
leaves  are  preserved  in  the  same  manner. 

Orange  Juice.  Mix  the  juice  of  12 
or  more  oranges  with  12  fluid  ounces 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 
When  the  sediment  has  all  settled  to 
the  bottom,  draw  the  fluid  off  and  fil- 
ter it. 

Orange  Peel  Extract.  Crush  in  a 
stone  mortar  the  rinds  of  12  oranges 
with  some  sugar,  and  let  the  mass  digest 
for  a  few  days  by  placing  it  in  i  gallon 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 
Then  decant  the  clear  fluid  and  fil- 
ter it. 

Parfait  D*  Amour  Essence.  Dissolve 
£  fluid  ounce  of  oil  of  cinnamon,  6 
fluid  drachms  each  of  oil  of  cardamon, 
oil  of  rosemarj',  and  anise  seed  oil,  and 
20  minims  each  of  oil  of  lemon,  oil  of 
orange,  oil  of  cloves,  oil  of  camomile, 
and  oil  of  lavender  in  li  quarts  of  rec- 
tified spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  Shake 
the  solution  thoroughly  and  filter  it. 

Peach  Essence.  Dissolve  1  fluid 
drachm  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds  in  3£ 
quarts  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.,  allow  the  solution  to  stand  for  a 
few  days,  and  then  filter  it. 

Or,  Crush  8f  ounces  bitter  almonds, 
put  them  in  a  still,  pour  2i  gallons  of 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


water  over  them,  and  let  them  digest 
for  12  hours.  Then  add  2J  gallons  of 
Epirit  of  wine,  and  distil  oft'  a  distillate 
75  per  cent,  strong. 

Peppermint  Essence.  Dissolve  £  to 
1  ounce  of  oil  of  peppermint  in  2£ 
quarts  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr. 

Peppermint  Essence  may  also  be  pre- 
pared by  steeping  1  part  of  the  leaves 
of  the  plant  in  3  of  spirit  of  wine  90  per 
cent,  strong.  After  remaining  in  the 
spirit  for  5  or  6  days,  the  clear  fluid  is 
poured  off,  the  residue  pressed,  and  the 
extract  filtered  and  added  to  the  clear 
fluid. 

Quince  Essence.  Grate  the  quinces, 
press  the  juice  out,  add  equal  parts  by 
weight  of  rectified  spirit  of  85  per  cent. 
Tr. ;  let  the  mass  stand  until  it  settles 
and  then  filter. 

Raspberry  Extract.  Crush  2  pounds 
of  ripe  raspberries,  press  them  out  and 
add  2  quarts  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr. 

Or,  Take  freshly  picked  raspberries, 
place  them  in  an  earthen  dish,  crush 
them  to  a  pulp  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
and  let  this  stand  quietly  in  a  moder- 
ately warm  room  until  the  pure  juice 
has  separated.  Then  place  the  pulp  in 
a  bag,  press  it  out,  let  the  juice  stand 
for  a  few  hours  longer,  and  add  the 
same  quantity  of  rectified  spirit  of  90 
per  cent.  Tr. 

Raspberry  Water.  This  is  prepared 
from  the  residue  left  in  preparing  the 
extract  by  stirring  it  into  a  mash  with 
water  and  distilling. 

Rose  Essence.  Dissolve  2  fluid 
drachms  of  rose  oil  in  H  quarts  of  rec- 
tified spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and 
filter  the  solution. 

Rose  Water.  Preserved  rose  leaves 
are  distilled  in  the  same  manner  as 
given  under  Orange  Blossom  Water. 

Rosemary  Essence.  Mix  6  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  rosemary  with  li 
quarts  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr. ;  let  the  mixture  stand  for  a  few 
days  and  then  filter  it. 

Sage  Essence.  Dissolve  1  fluid  ounce 
of  oil  of  garden  sage  in  1J  pints  of  rec- 
tified spirit  of  85  per  cent.  Tr. 

Spanish  Bitters  Essence.  Commin- 
ute 6  parts  of  calamus  root,  3i  each  of 
centaury  and  polypody  root,  3  of  orris 
coot,  2  each  of  galanga,  leaves  of 


blessed  thistle,  elecampane  root,  and 
gentian  root,  and  1  each  of  leaves  of 
wormwood,  angelica  root,  and  mas- 
terwort  root.  Pour  400  parts  of  rec- 
tified spirit,  90  per  cent,  strong,  over 
the  ingredients,  let  them  digest  for  48 
hours,  then  press  the  fluid  out  and 
filter  it 

Strawberry  Extract.  Bruise  4£ 
pounds  of  wild  strawberries;  pour  3 
quarts  of  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over 
the  mass ;  let  it  stand  for  some  time  and 
filter.  The  product  will  be  about  1 
gallon  of  strawberry  essence. 

Strengthening  Tincture.  Comminute 
4i  ounces  each  of  gentian  root,  calamus 
root,  and  oak  bark,  2  ounces  each  of 
orange  peel  and  angelica  root,  1  ounce 
of  cinnamon,  and  i  ounce  each  of 
cloves  and  ginger.  Pour  1J  gallons  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and 
1|  quarts  of  water  over  the  ingredients, 
and  let  them  digest  for  eight  days. 
Then  filter  the  mass,  add  40  minims  of 
oil  of  wormwood,  and  a  like  quantity 
of  oil  of  peppermint  and  oil  of  Tbalm  to 
the  filtrate. 

Vanilla  Essence.  Cut  2£  ounces  of 
vanilla  beans,  pour  li  quarts  of  recti- 
fied spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over  them ; 
let  them  digest  for  some  time,  and  filter 
the  fluid.  This  essence  should  be  kept 
in  hermetically  closed  flasks. 

Vanilla  water  may  be  made  by  pour- 
ing 1  gallon  of  water  over  the  extracted 
residue. 

Vanilla  Tincture.  Macerate  £  ounce 
of  vanilla  beans  for  8  days  in  2  fluid 
ounces  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.,  and  filter  the  fluid. 

Wormwood  Essence.  Comminute  £ 
ounce  each  of  leaves  of  wormwood, 
leaves  of  centaury,  and  leaves  of  blessed 
thistle,  J  ounce  each  of  gentian  root, 
china  root,  and  orange  peel,  J  ounce  of 
orris  root,  and  1  ounce  of  grains  of 
Paradise.  Pour  2£  pints  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over  the  in- 
gredients, let  them  digest  for  some 
time,  and  filter  the  fluid  off. 

III.  ELIXIRS.  Abbe  Elixir.  Com- 
minute 3J  pounds  of  lemon  peel,  6| 
ounces  of  nutmeg,  and  a  like  quantity 
of  cloves.  Place  the  ingredients  in  a 
wickered  demijohn,  and  pour  20  gal- 
lons of  33  per  cent,  alcohol  over  them, 
and  let  them  digest  for  3  to  4  weeks, 
placing  the  demijohn  in  a  warm  place. 


BITTERS,  CORDIALS,  ESSENCES,  ETC. 


17 


The  mass  is  then  strained  through  a 
cloth,  the  residue  pressed  out,  the  fluid 
filtered,  and  the  nitrate  compounded 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  white  sugar 
syrup. 

Angel  Elixir,  Comminute  and  mix 
4V  ounces  of  cinnamon,  2  ounces  of 
galanga,  li  ounces  of  cloves,  1  ounce 
each  of  nutmeg,  orange  peel,  and  lemon 
peel,  f  ounce  of  ginger,  i  ounce  each 
of  orris  root,  zedvary,  cubebs,  and  car- 
damons.  Pour  3  pints  of  alcohol 
over  the  ingredients,  and  let  them  digest 
for  8  days.  Then  filter  and  add  2V 
gallons  of  double  distilled  rose  water, 
and  13  pounds  of  sugar  syrup. 

Elixir  de  St.  Aur.  Distil  9  ounces 
each  of  lavender  blossoms,  orange  peel 
and  rose  leaves,  5i  ounces  of  lemon 
peel,  1  ounce  each  of  cinnamon,  cloves 
and  nutmegs,  with  5  gallons  of  alcohol 
and  4  gallons  of  water.  Add  2V  quarts 
each  of  rose  water,  orange  blossom 
water,  balm  water,  and  cinnamon  water, 
and  30  pounds  of  sugar  syrup  to  the 
distillate,  and  color  it  rose-red. 

Elixir-Colombat.  Dissolve.120  drops 
of  oil  of  juniper,  40  each  of  oil  of  an- 
gelica, oil  of  wormwood,  and  oil  lemon, 
and  20  of  oil  of  cinnamon  in  IV  gallons 
of  alcohol;  add  2J  pounds  of  sugar  dis- 
solved in  1^  gallons  of  water  to  the 
solution,  and  color  it  pale  red. 

Elixir  of  Life.  Dissolve  2  fluid 
ounces  of  oil  of  wormwood  and  1  fluid 
ounce  each  of  oil  of  cardamon,  oil  of 
calamus,  oil  of  nutmeg,  and  oil  of 
orange  peel,  in  3£  gallons  of  alcohol  90 
per  cent,  strong,  and  add  |  of  a  gallon 
of  water  to  the  solution.  Color  the 
fluid  brown  with  burned  sugar. 

Elixir  Jfonpou.  Dissolve  120  drops 
of  oil  of  peppermint,  40  each  of  oil  of 
balm,  oil  of  orange  peel,  rose  essence, 
and  orange  blossom  essence;  32  each 
of  oil  of  mace  and  oil  of  cloves,  and  60 
of  vanilla  tincture,  in  1£  gallons  of  rec- 
tified spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten 
the  solution  with  a  syrup  made  of  7 
pounds  of  sugar  and  li  gallons  of  water. 
Color  it  rose-red. 

Elixir  des  Troubadours.  Macerate 
2  pounds  of  musk  roses,  \\  pounds  of 
jasmine  blossoms,  9  ounces  of  orange 
blossoms,  2V  drachms  of  mace  in  3£ 
gallons  of  whiskey,  22  per  cent,  strong. 
Let  the  mass  stand  for  14  days;  distil 
on  the  water  bath,  and  add  a  syrup 
2 


made  of  11  pounds  of  sugar  and  3  quarts 
of  water.  Color  rose-red. 

Elixir  Vital.  Dissolve  120  drops  of 
oil  of  bergamot,  32  each  of  oil  of  mace, 
oil  of  coriander  seed,  and  oil  of  cloves ; 
24  each  of  cumin  oil  and  oil  of  cinna- 
mon, and  60  of  vanilla  tincture  in  li 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution  with  a  syrup 
made  of  6£  pounds  of  sugar  and  li 
gallons  of  water.  Color  green. 

Juniper  Elixir.  Crush  4i  ounces  of 
juniper  berries,  pour  1  gallon  of  spirit 
22  per  cent,  strong  over  them,  and  let 
them  digest  for  4  weeks.  Then  strain  the 
fluid  off,  and  add  a  syrup  made  of  9 
pounds  of  sugar  and  1|  quarts  of  water. 

Taboiirey  Elixir.  Comminute  i 
ounce  of  aloes,  2  ounces  each  of  cinna- 
mon and  walnuts,  4i  ounces  each  of 
orange  peel  and  lemon  peel,  and  1 
ounce  of  cloves.  Pour  2J  gallons  of 
spirit  of  wine  33  per  cent,  strong  over 
the  ingredients,  and  let  them  digest  for 
some  time ;  then  distil  in  a  water  bath, 
and  add  a  syrup  made  of  13  pounds  of 
pulverized  sugar,  and  1J  quarts  each 
of  orange  blossom  water  and  rose  water. 
This  elixir  is  colored  rose-red. 

IV.  BITTERS,  CORDIALS,  LIQUEURS 
AND  RATAFIAS.  Anise-seed  Cordial. 
Dissolve  2  fluid  drachms  of  anise-seed 
oil  and  20  drops  of  badian  seed  oil  in 
H  gallons  of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 
Compound  this  solution  with  6V  pounds 
of  sugar  in  1£  gallons  of  water,  and 
filter. 

Another  Recipe.  Dissolve  2  fluid 
drachms  of  anise  seed  oil,  40  drops  of 
fennel  oil,  32  drops  of  cummin  oil,  and 
30  drops  of  oil  of  lemon,  in  2J  gallons 
of  spirit  of  wine.  Mix  with  this  a 
solution  of  8J  pounds  of  sugar  in  2i 
gallons  of  water,  and  store  it  away  for 
3  to  4  weeks.  Then  draw  off  the  clear 
fluid,  filter  the  sediment  and  color  yel- 
low. 

Anisette  Cordial.  Dissolve  2  fluid 
drachms  of  anise  seed  oil  and  18 
drops  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds  in  1^  gal- 
lons of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ;  add 
a  solution  of  5&  pounds  of  sugar  in  1J 
gallons  of  water,  and  filter. 

French  Anisette.  Dissolve  2  fluid 
drachms  of  anise  oil,  20  drops  of  oil  of 
bitter  almonds,  and  2£  fluid  ounces  of 
cognac  essence  (see  Essences)  in  1£  gal- 
lons of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  Mix 


18 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


this  solution  with  one  of  54  pounds  of 
sugar  in  14  gallons  of  water,  and  filter. 

Holland  Anisette.  Dissolve  1  fluid 
drachm  of  anise  oil,  4  fluid  drachm 
of  cognac  essence,  i  fluid  drachm  each 
of  badian  seed  oil,  oil  of  bitter  almonds, 
and  vanilla  essence  (see  Essences),  14 
gallons  of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 
Mix  the  solution  with  one  of  6  pounds 
of  sugar  in  14  gallons  of  water,  and 
filter. 

Angelica,  Cordial.  Macerate  the  fol- 
lowing ingredients  in  4  gallons  of  alco- 
hol of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and  expose  them 
to  a  moderate  heat  for  4  days : 

Lemon  peel 8\t  ounces. 

Orange  peel 5J4 

Mace \4 

Nutmeg % 

Cassia 2J4 

Cloves 2 

Orris  root 1 

Rosemary  leaves' 2 

Lavender  flowers 1^ 

Marjoram % 

Orange  flowers 2*4 

Vanilla ^ 

Crushed  juniper  berries      .     .     .  2^ 

Filter  the  mixture  and  compound  the 
filtrate  with  a  solution  of  26  pounds  of 
sugar  in  2J  gallons  of  water. 

Aqua,  Bianca.  Dissolve  30  drops  of 
oil  of  lemon,  27  drops  of  cedar  oil,  33 
drops  of  oil  of  balm,  30  drops  of  oil  of 
peppermint,  4  fluid  drachm  of  vanilla 
essence,  and  4  fluid  drachm  of  amber- 
gris essence  (see  Essences),  in  14  gallons 
of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  Com- 
pound the  fluid  with  a  solution  of  64 
pounds  of  sugar  in  14  gallons  of  water, 
and  filter. 

AquaReale.  Dissolve  1  fluid  drachm 
of  oil  of  lemon,  |  fluid  drachm  of  oil  of 
orange  peel,  27  drops  of  oil  of  cinna- 
mon, 30  drops  of  oil  of  cloves,  30  drops 
of  oil  of  mace,  2  fluid  drachms  of  van- 
illa essence,  and  £  fluid  drachm  of  am- 
bergris essence.  Add  to  this  solution 
one  of  64  pounds  of  sugar  in  1  gallon 
of  water,  and  filter. 

A  qua-  Turco  Liqueur.  Pour  24  quarts 
of  boiling  water  over  4£  ounces  of  im- 
perial tea,  4  ounce  of  green  tea,  1  ounce 
of  black  gunpowder  tea,  14  ounces  of 
strong  infusion  of  lime  blossoms,  and  4 
ounce  of  angelica  seed.  Close  the  ves- 
sel tightly  to  prevent  the  vapors  from 
escaping,  until  the  infusion  has  become 
cold.  Then  draw  off  the  clear  fluid 


and  pour  24  quarts  of  boiling  water 
over  the  residue.  Filter  this  infusion 
when  cold  and  add  it  to  the  first  in- 
fusion. Then  add  284  pounds  of  sugar 
and  2^  gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  wine. 
Clarify  the  fluid  with  the  whites  of  3 
eggs  and  \i  pints  of  sweet  cream,  and 
perfume  it  with  some  musk  and  spirit 
of  ambergris.  Finally,  add  84  fluid 
ounces  of  vanilla  essence  and  let  the 
fluid  rest  quietly  for  24  hours.  Then 
filter  the  liquor  through  a  bag  filled 
with  animal  or  wood  charcoal  in  order 
to  obtain  it  entirely  colorless. 

Aromatic  Cordial.  Mix  30  drops  of 
oil  of  lemon,  24  of  oil  of  rosemary,  27 
of  oil  of  lavender,  30  of  oil  of  pepper- 
mint, 27  of  oil  of  angelica,  27  of  oil  of 
marjoram,  and  33  of  oil  of  cardamon 
with  14  gallons  of  alcohol  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr.  Shake  thoroughly  and  then 
compound  the  solution  with  one  of  54 
pounds  of  sugar  in  14  gallons  of  water, 
and  filter. 

Ambergris  Water.  Macerate  2 
drachms  of  powdered  gray  ambergris, 
30  grains  of  powdered  musk,  80  grains 
of  civet  in  U  pints  of  spirit  of  wine  40 
per  cent,  strong,  add  4  ounce  of  refined 
sugar.  Let  the  mixture  stand  for  14 
days  and  then  filter. 

Berlin  Bitters.  Dissolve  80  drops  of 
oil  of  juniper,  80  of  oil  of  coriander,  40 
each  of  oil  of  angelica  and  badian  seed 
oil,  and  44  drops  of  oil  of  ginger  in  14 
gallons  of  alcohol  of  80  per  cent.  Tr. 
To  this  solution  add  14  gallons  of  water 
and  1  pound  of  sugar.  Filter  and  color 
brown. 

Bitter-Rossoli.  Comminute  84  ounces 
of  oranges  and  4£  ounces  of  sandal  wood. 
Add  2i  pounds  of  orange  peel  and  12 
gallons  of  good  rye  whiskey.  Let  the 
mass  digest  for  14  days,  then  press,  filter, 
and  sweeten  it  with  a  solution  of  34 
pounds  of  sugar  in  1  pint  of  water. 

Breslau  Bitter  Cordial. 

Cassia 1V4  pounds. 

Cloves 5%  ounces. 

Mint  leaves 4} 

Caraway  seed 

Fennel  seed 4} 

Anise  seed 

Coriander  seed 2 

Ginger 2% 

Cubebs    2 

Rosemary  leaves 1% 

Cardamons 4% 

-Juniper  berries 5)4 


BITTERS,  COEDIALS,  ESSENCES,  ETC. 


19 


Lavender  blossoms 1%  ounces. 

Nutmegs 434  " 

Eom an  camomile 3  " 

Orris  root 3  " 

Angelica 6%  " 

Oranges 6l£  " 

Orange  peel 7%  " 

Lemon  peel 10%  " 

Gentian  root 434  " 

Oalanga 5>|  " 

Calamus  root 3  " 

Wormwood 5%  " 

Alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.    .     .  8  gallons. 

Is  sweetened  with  a  solution  of  58 
pounds  of  brown  sugar  in  10  gallons  of 
water  and  allowed  to  digest  for  8  to  10 
days,  when  it  is  filtered.  This  cordial 
is  coloied  either  dark  yellow  or  dark 
red. 

Calamus  Liqueur.  Macerate  9  pounds 
each  of  calamus  root  and  of  angelica 
root  in  4J  gallons  of  alcohol  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr.,  and  let  it  stand  for  6  days. 
Then  filter  the  fluid,  sweeten  it  with  a 
solution  of  22  pounds  of  sugar  in  li  gal- 
lons of  water,  and  color  it  red; 

Cardinal  Water.    Distil: 

Fresh  lemon  peel 3.3  pounds. 

Balm 5J/<  ounces. 

Anise  seed 4)4       " 

Coriander  seed 4V£       " 

Cinnamon 8%       " 

Mace 2%        " 

Nutmeg 1  " 

Alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.     .     .     4%  gallons. 
Water 4  « 

Dissolve  26i  pounds  of  syrup  in  5i 
gallons  of  water;  add  the  solution  to 
the  distillate.  Color  sky  blue. 

Cardinal  de  Rome.  Dissolve  2  fhiid 
drachms  of  oil  of  lemon,  1  fluid  drachm 
of  oil  of  cloves,  40  drops  of  oil  of  nut- 
nii-g,  20  drops  of  oil  of  cinnamon,  and  4 
grains  of  gray  ambergris  in  3  gallons 
of  spirit  of  wine,  sweeten  the  fluid  with 
a  solution  of  11  pounds  of  sugar  in  2i 
gallons  of  water  and  filter. 

Carminative  Cordial.    Distil: 

Pried  green  orange  peel    .     .     .  6^  ounces. 

Dried  green  lemon  peel     .     .     .  6%       " 

Caraway  seed 41^       " 

Juniper  berries ?>%       " 

Anise  seed ?>%       " 

Camomile 314;       " 

Mint       2*4       " 

Nutmeg 1  " 

Alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.    .     .  4%  gallons. 

Water 4  " 

Add  27i  pounds  of  syrup  and  3J  gal- 
lons of  water  to  the  distillate. 


Capuchin  Cordial.  Dissolve  1£  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  parsley,  1  fluid  drachm 
of  oil  of  orange  blossoms,  24  drops  of  oil 
of  cinnamon,  1±  fluid  drachms  of  cumin 
oil,  and  20  drops  each  of  anise  seed  oil, 
oil  of  mace,  and  fennel  seed  oil  in  2 
gallons  of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ; 
sweeten  the  solution  with  a  syrup  made 
of  5}  pounds  of  sugar  and  li  gallons  of 
water.  Color  brown. 

Chartreuse.  Three  varieties  of  this 
liqueur,  differently  colored,  are  found  in 
commerce.  The  following  receipts  can 
be  highly  recommended  for  manufac- 
turing this  liqueur. 


Green. 
Ozs. 


Yellow.  White. 
O/s.       Ozs. 


A 

10  grains. 
l£oz. 

I     & 


10^ 

35  grains. 

.*      g»' 

*    «:• 

%      ««• 


- 
11  Ib. 


Mountain  wormwood   . 

Aloes      

Angelica  seed .... 
Angelica  root  .... 
Arnica  blossoms  .  .  . 
Buds  of  poplars  .  .  . 
Calamus  root  .... 

Cassia 

Cardamons  .... 
Coriander  seeds  .  .  . 
Tonka  beans  .... 

Cloves 

Hyssop  in  bloom .     .     . 

Nutmeg 

Mace 

Balm 

Peppermint     .... 

Thyme 

Spirit  of  wine  of  85  per 

cent.  Tr.      .     .     . 
Sugar     

Macerate  the  herbs  in  the  alcohol  for 
about  36  to  48  hours,  add  a  quantity  of 
alcohol  equal  to  that  of  the  distillate, 
and  rectify  the  resulting  product  with 
the  addition  of  an  equal  quantity  of 
water.  Then  mix  the  distillate  with 
the  cold  solution  of  the  sugar,  and  add 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  water,  so  that 
the  entire  product  will  amount  to  4i 
gallons;  then  color  the  liqueur  green 
or  yellow. 

Cherry  Liqueur.  Mix  If  gallons  of 
cherry  juice  and  2±  gallons  of  pure  alco- 
hol, and  dissolve  in  the  mixture  {  ounce 
of  Indian  balsam,  1  drachm  each  of  oil 
of  cinnamon  and  oil  of  bitter  almonds, 
and  35  drops  of  oil  of  cloves.  Sweeten 
the  solution  with  13±  pounds  of  syrup 
and  4i  pounds  of  white  sugar  dissolved 
in  4|  gallons  of  water,  and  after  shaking 
the  fluid  thoroughly  store  it  away  until 
it  becomes  clear. 

Cherry  Cordial.    To  a  mixture  of  4i 


20 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


pounds  of  cherry  juice  and  3  quarts 
of  alcohol  of  80  per  cent,  add  16  drops 
of  oil  of  cloves,  1  pound  of  sugar,  and 
3i  quarts  of  water,  and  filter  the  cordial. 

Chocolate  Liqueur. 

Cocoa  beans  moderately  roasted 

and  crushed 3%  pounds. 

Finest  cassia 3li  ounces. 

Cloves \y.       » 

Vanilla %       " 

Cardamons %       " 

Saffron %       •« 

Cinnamon  flowers 1J4       " 

Alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.     .     .  5ft2  gallons. 

Water b%       " 

White  sugar 28^  pounds. 

Color  dark  red  with  cochineal. 

Christofle.  Dissolve  80  drops  of  oil 
of  orange  peel,  60  of  oil  of  lemon,  40  of 
oil  of  cinnamon,  40  of  oil  of  balm,  32  of 
oil  of  cloves,  and  24  of  oil  of  mace  in  13 
pounds  of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr., 
add  a  solution  of  5i  pounds  of  sugar  in 
li  gallons  of  water  and  filter. 

Citronelle.  Comminute  8i  ounces  of 
lemon  peel,  3i  ounces  of  orange  peel,  i 
ounce  of  nutmegs,  and  A  ounce  of  cloves. 
Pour  If  gallons  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr.  over  these  ingredients  and 
allow  them  to  digest  for  8  days,  when 
they  are  pressed  out  and  the  fluid  is  fil- 
tered and  compounded  with  a  solution 
of  6i  pounds  of  sugar  in  li  gallons  of 
water  and  the  liqueur  colored  yellow. 

Crambambuli.  Mix  1  fluid  drachm 
each  of  oil  of  cloves  and  oil  of  mace,  i 
fluid  drachm  of  oil  of  cinnamon,  and  20 
drops  of  oil  of  cardamon  with  1J 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.  Sweeten  the  solution  with  a  syrup 
made  of  5J  pounds  of  sugar  and  1J  gal- 
lons of  water,  and  filter. 

Danzig  Crambambuli.  Comminute 
4}  ounces  of  cinnamon,  1  ounce  of 
cloves,  i  ounce  of  ginger,  1  ounce  of 
mace,  "and  i  ounce  of  anise  seed.  Pour 
2f  gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr.  over  these  ingredients,  let  them 
digest  for  14  days,  then  press  them  out, 
filter  the  fluid,  and  sweeten  it  with  a 
solution  of  8f  pounds  of  sugar  in  2i 
gallons  of  water. 

Cumin  Cordial  (Kummel}.  I.  Dis- 
solve 2  fluid  drachms  of  cumin  oil  and 
4  fluid  drachms  of  anise  seed  oil  in  li 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.,  and  sweeten  the  solution  with  a 
syrup  made  of  6i  pounds  of  sugar  and 
li  gallons  of  water. 


II.  li  fluid  drachms  of  cumin  oil,  24 
drops  of  oil  of  coriander  seed,  24  drops 
of  oil  of  orange  peel,  24  drops  of  cognac 
essence.    Treat  and  sweeten  in  the  same 
manner  as  No.  I. 

III.  Dissolve  li  fluid  drachms  of 
cumin  oil,  24  drops  of  fennel  oil,  12 
drops  of  oil  of  cinnamon,  in  li  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 
Sweeten  the  solution  with  a  syrup  made 
of  li  pounds  of  sugar  and  li  gallons 
of  water,  and  filter. 

Cumin  Liqueur.  Macerate  for  6 
days  1  pound  of  caraway  seed,  1  ounce 
of  anise  seed,  i  ounce  of  orris  root,  i 
ounce  of  cinnamon,  i  ounce  of  angelica 
root,  i  ounce  of  cloves,  in  2£  gallons  of 
alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  Sweeten  the 
solution  with  a  syrup  made  of  1 1  pounds 
of  sugar  and  2  gallons  of  water,  and 
filter. 

Curagoa.  Comminute  1  pound  of 
fresh  orange  peel,  i  ounce  of  nutmegs, 
2  ounces  of  cinnamon.  Pour  2  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 
over  them,  allow  them  to  digest  for  8  to 

10  days,   and   compound    the  filtered 
fluid  with  a  solution  of  6i  pounds  of 
sugar  in  li  gallons  of  water. 

French  Curagoa.  Dissolve  li  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  orange  peel,  20  drops 
of  oil  of  cinnamon,  12  drops  of  oil  of 
mace,  30  drops  of  vanilla  essence,  30 
drops  of  raspberry  essence,  and  4i  fluid 
ounces  of  Jamaica  rum  in  1}  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and 
add  a  solution  of  6i  pounds  of  sugar  in 

11  gallons  of  water. 

Holland  Curagoa.  Dissolve  li  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  orange  peel,  20  drops 
of  cognac  essence,  8  drops  of  oil  of 
lemon,  10  drops  of  oil  of  mace,  and  1 
fluid  drachm  of  vanilla  essence  in  If 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.,  and  compound  the  fluid  with  a 
solution  of  6i  pounds  of  sugar  in  li 
gallons  of  water.  Color  the  liquor 
light  brown. 

Eau  Americaine. 

Orange  peel 1      pound, 

Rosemary  leaves 4V£  fluid  oz. 

Lavender  blossoms 4%       " 

Cinnamon 3*4        " 

Cloves 2*|        " 

Nutmegs 1  " 

Alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.     .     .  4%  gallons. 

Water 4  « 

Add  to  the  distilled  fluid  3  gallons  of 


BITTERS,  CORDIALS,  ESSENCES,  ETC. 


water  and  26  pounds  of  syrup,  and  color 
the  distillate  green. 
Eau  jy Amour.    Distil : 

Bitter  almonds 13l/£  ounces. 

Fresh  lemon  peel    .... 

Cinnamon 

Mace 

Cloves 

Lavender  blossoms .... 
Alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  . 
Water  . 


4%  gallons. 


Then  add  1J  gallons  of  Muscatel  wine, 
37  drops  of  ambergris  essence,  22  pounds 
of  syrup,  and  14  gallons  of  water,  and 
color  the  fluid  rose-red. 
Eau  D' Argent.    Distil : 

Fresh  lemon  peel 1      pound. 

Cl'ves 2V^  ounces. 

Angelica  seed 1%        " 

Badian  seed 1% 

Fl..n-ntine  orris  root      ....  1% 

Cinnamon 2'/£        " 

Alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.     .     .  4%  gallons. 

Add  to  the  distillate  1J  quarts  of  balm 
water,  264  pounds  of  sugar  syrup,  and 
2.i  gallons  of  water.  Color  the  fluid 
red,  and  mix  some  silver  leaf  macerated 
with  honey  with  it. 

Eau  U'Ardelle.  Distil  44  ounces 
each  of  mace  and  of  cloves,  4f  gallons 
of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and  4 
gallons  of  water.  Mix  with  the  distil- 
late 34  gallons  of  syrup  and  2J  gallons 
of  water,  and  color  violet. 

Eau  IJ'Absynth  Citronne.  I.  Distil 
44  pounds  of  wormwood  leaves,  |  ounce 
of  lemon  peel,  4J  gallons  of  alcohol  of 
90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and  4  gallons  of 
*  water.  Add  to  the  distillate  H  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  peppermint,  264 
pounds  of  syrup,  and  34  gallons  of 
water. 

II.  Dissolve  li  fluid  drachms  of  oil 
of  lemon,  f  fluid  drachm  of  oil  of  worm- 
wood, 24  drops  of  oil  of  peppermint,  15 
drops  of  anise  seed  oil,  li  fluid  drachms 
of  oil  of  cardamon  in  1J  gallons  of  rec- 
tified spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten 
with  a  solution  of  5V  pounds  of  sugar  in 
14  gallons  of  water,  and  color  green. 
The  same  quantity  of  oil  of  orange 
blossoms  may  be  used  instead  of  carda- 
mon oil. 

Eau  De  Cypre.  Dissolve  H  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  lemon,  30  drops  of  oil 
of  bergamot,  20  drops  each  of  oil  of  cin- 


namon, oil  of  orange  blossoms  and  of 
vanilla  essence,  and  24  drops  of  oil  of 
cardamon  in  1}  gallons  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and  sweeten 
with  a  solution  of  64  pounds  of  sugar 
in  14  gallons  of  water.  The  liquor  ia 
left  either  colorless  or  colored  pale  yel- 
low. 

Eau  de  Dauphin.  Dissolve  5  drops 
of  oil  of  juniper,  20  drops  each  of  an- 
gelica oil,  coriander  oil,  and  oil  of  gin- 
ger, 10  drops  of  oil  of  cardamon,  and  a 
like  quantity  of  badian  seed  oil  in  1 J 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr. ;  sweeten  by  adding  a  solution  of  3J 
pounds  of  sugar  in  14  gallons  of  water, 
and  filter. 

Eau  de  Napoleon.    Distil : 

Fresh  jasmine  blossoms    ...       ?>%  ounces. 

Fresh  lemon  peel 11  " 

Cloves 3»4 

Cinnamon 3^?       " 

Nutmegs 2J4       " 

Alcohol 6     gallons. 

Then  add  to  the  distillate:  2  fluid 
drachms  of  vanilla  essence,  34  quarts 
of  double  distilled  rose  water,  34  quarts 
of  orange  flower  water,  1J  quarts  of 
peppermint  water,  3  pounds  of  sugar 
syrup,  34  quarts  of  water,  and  color 
blue. 
Eau  D'  Orient.  Distil : 


Dates  .     .     .     -     - 

2      ou 

p 

4%  gal 

ces. 
ona. 

Lemon  peel 
Orange  peel 
Pine  apples 
Grains  of  Para 
Calamus  . 
Allspice  .     . 
Alcohol  of  90  p 
Water     .     . 



dise    .... 

er  cent.  Tr.     . 

Add  to  the  distillate  24  gallons  of 
sugar  syrup  and  5i  gallons  of  water,  and 
color  blue. 

Eau  D'Or  (Gold  water).  Dissolve  | 
fluid  drachm  of  oil  of  lemon,  24  drops 
of  oil  of  cinnamon,  24  drops  of  oil  of 
coriander,  20  drops  of  oil  of  mace,  15 
drops  of  oil  of  orange  blossoms  in  If 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr.,  and  sweeten  by  adding  a  solution 
of  7  pounds  of  sugar  in  if  gallons  of 
water.  Color  the  fluid  pale  yellow, 
filter,  and  add  a  small  quantity  of  finely 
macerated  gold  leaf. 


22 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Eau  de  Paradise  (Paradise  Water}. 
Distil : 

Fresh  lemon  peel 2^  pounds. 

Angelica  root 3%  ounces. 

Orris  root 2 

Calamus 2% 

Anise  seed 2% 

Kosewood 2 

Ciirdamons   . 1 

Alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.      .     .  4%  gallons. 

Add  to  the  distillate  26$  pounds  of 
sugar  syrup  and  3  gallons  of  water. 
Color  green  and  add  some  silver  leaf 
'  rubbed  fine. 

Eau  des  Princesses.  Dissolve  80  drops 
of  oil  of  lemon,  80  of  oil  of  bergamot, 
40  of  oil  of  cloves,  40  of  oil  of  balm,  20 
each  of  oil  of  cinnamon,  oil  of  bitter 
almonds,  and  oil  of  peppermint,  GO  of 
vanilla  essence,  and  40  each  of  rose 
essence  and  orange  blossom  essence  in 
2  gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr.,  sweeten  with  a  solution  of  7J 
pounds  of  sugar  in  li  gallons  of  water, 
and  filter. 

Eau  Precieuse.  Comminute  4}  ounces 
of  rosewood  and  a  like  quantity  of  bit- 
ter almonds,  and  let  the  mass  d'igest  for 
6  to  10  days  in  3  gallons  of  rectified 
spirit.  Then  press  out,  filter,  and  add 
to  the  filtrate  20  drops  of  oil  of  cloves, 
12  of  oil  of  lemon,  and  12  of  oil  of  nut- 
meg, and  also  a  solution  of  8|  pounds 
of  sugar  in  2i  gallons  of  water.  This 
liquor  is  colored  green,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  silver  leaf  macerated  in  al- 
cohol is  added. 

Eau  Eoyale.    Distil : 

Lemon  peel 11      cmnces. 

Orange  peel     .......  11  " 

Jasmine  blossoms 8%       " 

Mace 4k       " 

Cinnamon 4%       " 

Cloves 2i|       " 

Nutmeg 1  " 

Alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.    .     .  4%  gallons. 

Water 1%       " 

Add  to  the  distillate  20  drops  of  am- 
bergris essence,  2  fluid  ounces  of  vanilla 
essence,  a  like  quantity  of  orange  flower 
water,  2i  gallons  of  water,  264  pounds 
of  sugar  syrup,  and  color  the  fluid  red. 
Eau  de  'Sante.  Mix  4  fluid  drachms 
of  oil  of  lemon,  f  fluid  drachm  each  of 
oil  of  rosemary,  oil  of  lavender,  oil  of 
peppermint,  oil  of  angelica,  oil  of  mar- 
joram, and  oil  of  cubebs,  and  13| 
pounds  of  sugar  in  3  gallons  of  rectified 


spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  Color  the 
solution  green  and  filter. 

Eau  de  Sept  Graincs  ( Water  of 
Seven  Seeds).  Comminute  i  ounce  each 
of  anise  seed,  fennel  seed,  caraway  seed, 
and  coriander  seed,  and  6  grains  each 
of  dill  seed  and  of  wild  thyme  seed. 
Macerate  the  seeds  for  about  14  days  in 
3i  quarts  of  French  brandy,  then  filter, 
and  sweeten  with  a  solution  of  2| 
pounds  of  sugar  in  f  of  a  pint  of  water. 

English  Hitters.  I.  Compound  4£ 
ounces  of  English  Bitters  essence  (see 
Essences)  and  f  fluid  drachm  of  cognac 
essence ;  sweeten  the  liquid  with  a  solu- 
tion of  4i  pounds  of  sugar  in  1^  gallons 
of  water,  filter,  and  color  brown. 

II.  Compound  80  drops  of  oil  of 
orange  peel,  60  of  oil  of  angelica,  40  of 
oil  of  wormwood,  24  of  oil  of  marjoram, 
and  16  of  oil  of  cardamon  with  If  gal- 
lons rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ; 
sweeten  the  solution  with  5&  pounds  of 
sugar  in  H  gallons  of  water,  filter,  and 
color  brown. 

Greek  Sitters.  Dissolve  80  drops  of 
oil  of  lemon,  48  of  oil  of  wormwood,  40 
each  of  oil  of  angelica  and  oil  of  cala- 
mus, 24  each  of  oil  of  rnace,  oil  of  cloves, 
oil  of  bitter  almonds,  and  12  of  carda- 
mon oil,  in  If  gallons  of  rectified  spirit 
of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten  this  solu- 
tion with  a  syrup  of  6  pounds  of  sugar 
and  1  •!  gallons  of  water,  filter,  and  color 
reddish  brown. 

Hamburg  Bitters.  Dissolve  120  drops 
of  oil  of  cinnamon  blossoms,  40  each  of 
oil  of  cloves,  oil  of  calamus,  and  oil  of 
wormwood,  24  of  oil  of  mace,  and  20 
of  oil  of  cardamon,  in  If  gallons  of  rec- 
tified spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and  add 
a  solution  of  5£  pounds  of  sugar  in  1J 
gallons  of  water;  filter  the  fluid  and 
color  it  brown. 

Juniper  Liqueur.  I.  Compound  2 
fluid  drachms  of  oil  of  juniper  and  24 
drops  of  oil  of  cardamon  with  If  gallons 
of  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten  the 
mixture  with  a  solution  of  5i  pounds 
of  sugar  in  H  gallons  of  water,  and  fil- 
ter the  fluid. 

II.  Dissolve  2  fluid  drachms  of  oil  of 
juniper,  24  drops  of  oil  of  ginger,  24 
drops  of  oil  of  coriander,  and  H  fluid 
drachms  of  cognac  essence  in  2  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr., 
and  sweeten  the  solution  with  5£  pounds 
of  sugar  dissolved  in  li  gallons  or  water. 


BTTTEKS,  CORDIALS,  ESSENCES,  ETC. 


Koch's  Herb  Extract.    Macerate  : 


Lemon  peel  ........  4U 

Calamus   .........  V& 

Cinnamon     ........  2!4 

White  ginger    .......  2^ 

Peruvian  bark  .......  2^£ 

Orris  root      ........  ^A 

Juniper  berries      ......  &A 

Bay  leaves    ........  "<% 

Cnbcbs     .........  2*4 

Orange  peel  ........  2^ 

Roman  camomile  .     .          .     .     .  ll/a 

Elder  flowers     .......  l>t»' 


in  2i  gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent,  Tr.  Then  press  out  and  filter  the 
fluid. 

Maraschino.  Compound  1  pound  of 
maraschino  essence  with  4i  gallons  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per. cent.  Tr.  and  9 
gallons  of  water ;  sweeten  the  mixture 
with  a  solution  of  44  pounds  of  sugar, 
and  filter. 

Mogador.  Dissolve  40  drops  each  of 
oil  of  wormwood,  oil  of  calamus,  oil  of 
peppermint,  and  oil  of  orange  peel,  and 
20  drops  each  of  oil  of  cinnamon,  oil  of 
cloves,  oil  of  ginger,  and  oil  of  balm  in 
1 J  gallons  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution  with  <3  pounds 
of  sugar  dissolved  in  7  pints  of  water, 
color  it  red  with  bilberry  juice,  and 
filter. 

Nectar.  Dissolve  120  drops  of  oil  of 
lemon,  80  of  fennel  oil,  40  each  of  oil 
of  calamus,  oil  of  cinnamon,  oil  of  car- 
dainoii,  and  oil  of  orange  blossoms  in 
1J  gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution  with  6\ 
pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  1;\  gallons 
of  water,  color  it  blue,  and  filter. 

Orange  Ped  Cordial.  I.  Dissolve  2 
fluid  drachms  of  oil  of  orange  peel  in  1  j 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr. ;  add  6£  pounds  of  sugar  in  1$  gal- 
lons of  water,  color  the  fluid  yellow, 
and  filter. 

II.  Comminute  £  pound  of  fresh 
orange  peel,  pour  1 J  gallons  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  over  them ; 
sweeten  with  6V  pounds  of  sugar  dis- 
solved in  IV  gallons  of  water,  and  filter. 

Pa rfait  jy  A  mo u r.  Dissolve  80  drops 
of  oil  of  lemon,  40  of  oil  of  cinnamon, 
30  of  oil  of  bergamot,  20  of  oil  of  cloves, 
16  of  oil  of  nutmegs,  and  10  each  of  oil 
of  lavender  blossoms  and  oil  of  rose- 
mary in  2J  gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of 
90  per  cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution 


with  8|  pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  2i 
gallons  of  water,  color  the  fluid  pale 
red,  and  filter. 

Peach  Cordial.  Cut  1  pound  of 
peaches  in  slices,  then  pour  1J  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. 
over  them,  and  allow  the  mass  to  digest 
for  8  to  10  days.  Then  filter  and  mix 
the  filtrate  with  1£  gallons  of  good 
white  wine  and  7J  pounds  of  sugar  dis- 
solved in  1J  quarts  of  water. 

Peppermint  Cordial.  Dissolve  2 
fluid  drachms  of  oil  of  peppermint  in 
1J  gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent,  Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution  with  6£ 
pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  li  gallons 
of  water,  and  filter. 

Or,  Dissolve  2  fluid  drachms  of  oil  of 
peppermint  and  1  fluid  drachm  of  cog- 
nac essence  in  If  gallons  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten  the 
solution  with  6V  pounds  of  sugar  dis- 
solved in  1  i  gallons  of  water,  and  filter. 

Polish  Water.  Comminute  6 i  ounces 
of  dried  currants,  1  ounce  each  of  anise 
seed,  cinnamon,  cloves,  fennel  seed, 
mint,  rosemary,  marjoram,  and  galanga. 
Pour  4  gallons  of  alcohol  and  3  gallons 
of  rose-water  over  them,  and  let  the 
mass  digest  for  14  days.  Then  add  44 
pounds  of  sugar  syrup,  and  filter. 

Polish  Whiskey.  Comminute  i  pound 
of  large  raisins,  i  ounce  of  licorice  root, 
I  ounce  each  of  cinnamon  and  carda- 
mons,  i  ounce  each  of  cloves,  galanga, 
gum  ammoniac,  anise  seed,  and  corian- 
der seed,  and  £  ounce  of  saffron.  Pour 
If  quarts  of  whiskey  over  these  ingre- 
dients, let  the  mass  digest  for  a  few 
days,  then  press  the  liquor  out,  filter  it, 
and  sweeten  it  to  the  taste  with  sugar 
dissolved  in  rose-water. 

Quince  Cordial  (Quittico}.  Powder 
coarsely  2  ounces  of  cinnamon,  i  ounce 
of  coriander  seed,  £  ounce  of  white 
ginger,  and  i  ounce  of  nutmeg.  Macer- 
ate these  ingredients  for  8  days  in  1 
pint  of  spirit  of  wine  85  per  cent, 
strong,  then  strain  and  press  out  the 
liquid  and  add  7  pounds  of  fresh  quince 
juice  in  which  6  pounds  of  white  sugar 
have  been  dissolved,  and  add  3  quarts 
of  spirit  of  wine  85  per  cent,  strong. 
Mix  the  mass  thoroughly  and  filter 
through  felt  or  blotting  paper. 

Rosemary  Cordial.  Dissolve  2  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  rosemary  and  24 
drops  of  oil  of  lemon  in  li  pints  of  rec- 


24 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


tified  spirit  of  80  per  cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten 
the  solution  with  1  pound  of  sugar  dis- 
solved in  li  gallons  of  water,  and  filter. 

Rossolio  de  Turin.  Comminute  1 
pound  of  fresh  rose  leaves,  i  pound 
each  Of  jasmine  blossoms  and  orange 
blossoms,  1  ounce  each  of  orris  root  and 
cinnamon,  i  ounce  each  of  cloves  and 
vanilla.  Pour  If  gallons  of  spirit  of 
wine  over  these  ingredients  and  let 
them  macerate  for  8  to  12  days,  placing 
them  in  a  warm  place.  Then  pour  off 
the  fluid,  press  out  the  residue,  sweeten 
the  liquor  with  7i  pounds  of  sugar,  and 
let  it  stand  for  3  to  4  weeks.  Then 
pour  off  the  clear  liquor,  filter  the  sedi- 
ment, and  color  red  with  cochineal  or 
cherry  juice. 

Rostopschin.  Dissolve  li  fluid 
drachms  of  anise  seed  oil,  i  fluid  drachm 
of  oil  of  cardamons,  40  drops  of  oil  of 
lemon,  and  20  drops  each  of  oil  of  cin- 
namon and  oil  of  coriander  seed  in  If 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution  with  6'i 
pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  li  gallons 
of  water,  and  filter. 

Scubac.  Comminute  4J  ounces  of 
juniper  berries,  2  ounces  of  coriander 
seed,  1  ounce  each  of  saffron  and  cinna- 
mon, i  ounce  each  of  angelica  seed  and 
anise  seed,  i  ounce  each  of  mace  and 
cloves,  and  the  fresh  peel  of  4  lemons. 
Pour  2  gallons  spirit  of  wine  over  these 
ingredients  and  let  them  macerate  for 
2  to  3  weeks.  Then  boil  li  ounces  of 
raisins  or  dates  in  If  gallons  of  water, 
pour  off  the  liquor,  press  out  the  residue, 
and  sweeten  with  6i  pounds  of  sugar, 
and  add  this  to  the  liquor  pressed  out 
of  the  macerated  mass.  Let  the  whole 
stand  for  3  or  4  weeks,  then  pour  off  the 
clear  liquor  and  filter  the  sediment. 

Soya  Aqua  Vitae.  Comminute  3 
ounces  of  anise  seed,  1  ounce  each  of 
coriander  seed,  elecampane  root,  nut- 
meg, and  cloves,  i  ounce  each  of  cara- 
way seed  and  elderberry  blossoms,  i 
ounce  of  Roman  camomile,  4i  ounces 
each  of  lemon  peel  and  orange  peel,  and 
1  i  ounces  of  cinnamon.  Macerate  these 
ingredients  in  alcohol  for  2  or  3  weeks, 
then  distil  them  with  5i  gallons  of 
rectified  spirit,  add  the  necessary  quan- 
tity of  sugar,  and  compound  the  distil- 
late with  If  pints  of  rose-water  and  as 
much  water  as  may  be  required. 

Spanish  Bitters.    Dissolve  80  drops 


of  oil  of  Crete  marjoram  (origan),  40 
each  of  oil  of  bitter  oranges  and  oil  of 
wormwood,  and  20  each  of  oil  of  angel- 
ica, oil  of  cardamon,  oil  of  calamus,  oil 
of  marjoram,  and  oil  of  thyme  in  If 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent. 
Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution  with  6i  pounds 
of  sugar  dissolved  in  li  gallons  of  water, 
color  it  brown,  and  filter. 

Stettin  Bitters.  Macerate  1  pound  of 
gentian  root,  8f  ounces  of  wormwood, 
1  pound  of  cloves,  4i  ounces  each  of 
coriander  seed,  cinnamon,  and  orange 
peel,  2i  ounces  each  of  green  oranges 
and  quassia  in  9i  gallons  of  spirit  of 
wine  40  per  cent,  strong.  Pour  off  the 
fluid,  strain  the  residue,  add  11  pounds 
brown  sugar,  filter  the  liquor,  and  color 
it  brown. 

Stomach  Bitters.  I.  Comminute  2 
ounces  each  of  calamus,  anise  seed,  car- 
away seed,  and  fennel,  li  ounces  each 
of  ginger  and  cinnamon,  i  ounce  of 
mace,  1  ounce  of  cloves,  4f  ounces  of 
lemon  peel,  1  ounce  each  of  galanga, 
zedoary,  and  cubebs,  i  ounce  of  pepper, 
f  ounce  of  sassafras  bark,  li  ounces 
each  of  rose  leaves,  myrrh,  and  laven- 
der blossoms,  and  2  ounces  of  orris  root. 
Pour  2  gallons  of  whiskey  and  If  pints 
of  water  over  the  ingredients,  let  them 
macerate  for  8  days,  then  press  them 
out,  filter  the  liquor,  and  add  some 
common  salt  and  4i  pounds  of  crushed 
sugar. 

II.  Comminute  i  ounce  each  of  speed- 
well,   mint,    balm,   wormwood,    arum 
root,  zedoary,  calamus  root,  small  pome- 
granates, caraway  seed,  and  cinnamon. 
Pour  over    them   If    quarts    of  good 
whiskey  and  let  them  macerate  for  14 
days  in  a  warm  place,  with  frequent 
shaking  in  the  meanwhile.    Then  press 
the  liquor  out,  filter,   and    put  it  in 
bottles. 

III.  Dissolve  40  drops  each  of  oil  of 
orange  peel,  oil  of  wormwood,  oil  of 
mint,  and  oil  of  calamus,  20  drops  each 
of  oil  of  marjoram,  oil  of  cinnamon,  oil  of 
cloves,  and  oil  of  cardamon,  and  li  fluid 
drachms  of  cognac  essence  in  If  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ; 
sweeten  the  solution  with  6i  pounds  of 
sugar  dissolved  in  li  gallons  of  water, 
color  the  liquor  brown,  and  filter. 

IV.  Dissolve  60  drops  of  oil  of  orange 
peel,  40  each  of  oil  of  calamus,  oil  of 
angelica,  oil  of  cardamon,  oil  of  worm- 


BITTERS,  CORDIALS,  ESSENCES,  ETC. 


25 


wood,  oil  of  ginger,  and  oil  of  mar- 
joram, and  2  fluid  drachms  of  cognac 
essence  in  If  gallons  of  rectified  spirit 
of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution 
with  5h  pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  1  i 
gallons  of  water,  and  filter. 

V.  Vienna  Stomach  Bitters.  Dis- 
solve 40  drops  each  of  oil  of  balm,  oil 
of  orange  peel,  and  oil  of  angelica,  24 
drops  each  of  oil  of  marjoram,  oil  of 
wormwood,  oil  of  cinnamon,  oil  of  cori- 
ander seed,  and  oil  of  mace,  and  i  fluid 
ounce  of  cognac  essence  in  1|  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ; 
sweeten  the  solution  with  75  pounds  of 
sugar  dissolved  in  2i  quarts  of  water. 
Color  red  and  filter. 

Sirix*  Cordial.  Dissolve  40  drops 
each  of  oil  of  wormwood,  oil  of  calamus, 
and  oil  of  peppermint,  24  drops  each  of 
oil  of  bitter  oranges,  oil  of  marjoram, 
oil  of  cinnamon,  oil  of  cloves,  and  oil 
of  cardamons  in  1J  gallons  of  rectified 
spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten  the 
solution  with  4}  pounds  of  sugar  dis- 
solved in  Ik  gallons  of  water,  color  the 
fluid  green,  and  filter. 

T/iie in's  Hitters.  1  pound  of  peeled 
calamus  root,  2i  pounds  of  orange  peel, 
i  pound  of  galanga,  5  pound  of  white 
cinnamon,  of  ounces  of  cardamons,  42 
ounces  each  of  cloves  and  allspice,  2i 
ounces  each  of  anise  seed  and  fennel, 
5|  ounces  of  nutmeg,  1.  ounce  of  Roman 
camomile,  and  2\  ounces  of  elecampane 
root  are  digested  in  17  gallons  of  spirit 
of  wine  50  per  cent,  strong  for  24  hours 
in  a  still,  and  then  8*  gallons  of  liquor 
are  distilled  off,  55  pounds  of  sugar  are 
dissolved  in  the  distillate,  and  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  water  is  added  to  give 
a  volume  of  26i  gallons  of  liqueur  30 
per  cent,  strong. 

Tivoli  Cordial.  Dissolve  80  drops 
each  of  oil  of  coriander  seed  and  oil  of 
mace,  and  40  drops  each  of  oil  of  lemon, 
tincture  of  vanilla,  oil  of  cinnamon, 
and  tincture  of  orris  root  in  If  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr. ; 
sweeten  the  solution  with  5J  pounds  of 
sugar  dissolved  in  1£  gallons  of  water, 
and  color  the  cordial  brown. 

Trappistine.  3i  ounces  each  of 
wormwood  and  angelica  root,  If  ounces 
each  of  myrtle  leaves  and  calamus  root, 
4  ounce  of  cloves,  3£  ounces  of  carda- 
mons, 7  ounces  of  peppermint,  24  ounces 
of  common  balin  leaves,  J  ounce  of  cin- 


namon, and  J  ounce  of  nutmeg  are 
macerated  for  48  hours  in  2i  gallons  of 
rectified  spirit  85  per  cent,  strong;  2i 
gallons  of  water  are  then  added  and  the 
macerated  mass  isdistilled.  One  gallon 
of  water  is  then  added  to  the  distillate, 
and  this  is  compounded  with  a  cold 
syrup  of  17i  pounds  of  sugar  in  1  gallon 
of  water,  and  finally  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  water  is  added  to  give  an  entire 
product  of  5i  gallons.  This  liqueur  is 
colored  green. 

}  'a  )>  if /a  Cordial.  Macerate  2£  ounces 
of  vanilla  beans  for  a  few  days  in  1^ 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  and  3  gallons 
of  water,  and  then  distil  the  mass.  Add 
22  pounds  of  dissolved  sugar  to  the  dis- 
tillate, color  it  with  cochineal,  and 
filter. 

Veritable  Portrait  d' Absinthe.  Five 
pounds  of  anise  seed,  a  like  quantity 
of  fennel,  li  pounds  of  elecampane 
root,  2  pounds  of  calamus,  2  ounces  of 
wormwood,  2i  ounces  of  leaves  and 
stalks  of  wild  basil,  6£  ounces  of  bitter 
almonds,  2  ounces  each  of  hyssop,  mint, 
and  gnaphalium  flowers  are  commi- 
nuted and  digested  in  3  gallons  of  recti- 
fied spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  The 
macerated  mass  is  then  pressed  out,  the 
liquor  filtered,  and  2  gallons  of  rum  are 
added,  and  the  fluid  sweetened  with  5 
pounds  of  brown  sugar  dissolved  in  2£ 
gallons  of  water. 

Vienna  Hitters.  Dissolve  40  drops 
each  of  oil  of  bitter  oranges,  oil  of 
wormwood,  and  oil  of  Crete  marjoram 
(origan),  32  of  oil  of  calamus,  20  each 
of  oil  of  peppermint,  oil  of  marjoram, 
oil  of  anise  seed,  oil  of  thyme,  and  oil 
of  cinnamon,  24  of  oil  of  coriander  seed, 
and  12  of  oil  of  cloves  in  2  gallons  of 
rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.  Add 
3  quarts  of  good  red  wine  to  the  solu- 
tion, sweeten  it  with  6i  pounds  of  sugar 
dissolved  in  3i  quarts  of  water,  color  it 
red,  and  filter. 

Wormwood  Cordial.  Dissolve  1£ 
fluid  drachms  of  oil  of  wormwood,  32 
drops  of  oil  of  lemon,  and  20  drops  each 
of  oil  of  cinnamon  and  oil  of  cardamon 
in  li  gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution  with  5£ 
pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  1£  gallons 
of  water,  and  filter. 

VI.  RATAFIAS.  Barbadoes  Rata- 
fia. Dissolve  80  drops  of  oil  of  lemon, 
a  like  quantity  of  oil  of  bergamot,  40 


26 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


each  of  oil  of  cinnamon,  oil  of  cloves, 
and  oil  of  mace,  and  H  fluid  drachms 
of  vanilla  tincture  in  1J  gallons  of  rec- 
tified spirit  of  90  per  cent,  Tr.,  and  add 
11  pounds  of  sugar,  dissolved  in  1^  gal- 
lons of  water. 

Cocoa  Ratafia.  Seven  pounds  of 
roasted  cocoa  are  digested  for  14  days 
in  1  gallon  of  alcohol  35  per  cent, 
strong.  Sweeten  the  mixture  with  18| 
pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  2£  quarts 
of  water,  filter  and  add  90  drops  of  van- 
illa tincture. 

Oitronat-Ratafia.  Dissolve  2i  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  lemon  and  1  fluid 
drachm  each  of  oil  of  bergamot,  vanilla 
tincture,  and  essence  of  roses  in  2  gal- 
lons of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr., 
and  sweeten  the  solution  with  13  pounds 
of  sugar  dissolved  in  1£  gallons  of 
water. 

Claret  Ratafia.  Comminute  2  ounces 
each  of  anise  seed,  dill,  fennel,  and 
coriander  seed,  and  4|  ounces  of  cara- 
way seed;  macerate  these  ingredients 
for  14  days  in  2  gallons  of  whiskey  22 
per  cent,  strong,  then  strain  the  macer- 
ated mass  through  a  linen  cloth ;  add 
5i  pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  $  pint 
of  water,  and  filter. 

English  Bitters  Ratafia.  Dissolve 
80  drops  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds,  a  like 
quantity  of  oil  of  angelica,  40  of  oil  of 
marjoram,  32  of  oil  of  balm,  20  each  of 
oil  'of  wormwood  and  oil  of  carda- 
mons,  120  of  cognac  essence,  and  80  of 
vanilla  tincture  in  If  gallons  of  recti- 
fied spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and 
sweeten  the  solution  with  a  syrup  made 
of  10  pounds  of  sugar  and  1£  gallons  of 
water. 

Fennel  Ratafia.  Dissolve  2  fluid 
drachms  of  fennel  oil,  f  fluid  drachm 
of  oil  of  coriander  seed,  a  like  quantity 
of  oil  of  anise  seed,  and  1}  fluid  drachms 
of  orange  blossom  essence  in  1 J  gallons 
of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per  cent.  Tr.,  and 
sweeten  the  solution  with  a  syrup  made 
of  10  pounds  of  sugar  and  1J  gallons 
of  water. 

Ginger  Ratafia.  Comminute  \  pound 
of  ginger  and  i  ounce  of  vanilla  beans. 
Pour  12  gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90 
per  cent.  Tr.  over  these  ingredients,  let 
them  stand  for  some  time,  draw  oif  the 
fluid,  and  sweeten  it  with  a  solution  of 
10  pounds  of  sugar  in  1J  gallons  of 
water. 


Ratafia  Chinoise  (Chinese  Liqueur). 
Comminute  1£  pounds  of  green  oranges 
and  5i  ounces  of  fresh  stems  of  an- 
gelica; pour  2£  gallons  of  spirit  of 
wine  over  these  ingredients,  and  let 
them  macerate  for  10  to  15  days.  Then 
press  the  macerated  mass  out,  filter 
the  liquid,  and  sweeten  it  with  9 
pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  1  gallon 
of  water. 

Ratafia,  de  Grenoble.  Comminute  1 
drachm  of  cinnamon,  J  ounce  of  cloves, 
8£  ounces  of  peach  leaves,  and  a  like 
quantity  of  cherry  stones.  Pour  1  gal- 
lon of  whiskey  over  these  ingredients, 
and  let  them  digest  for  2  to  3  weeks, 
when  they  are  distilled.  Add  to  the 
distillate  1  gallon  of  cherry  juice,  in 
which  2i  pounds  of  sugar  have  been 
dissolved. 

Mulberry  Ratafia.  Pour  22  pounds 
of  spirit  of  wine  over  26i  pounds  of 
mulberries,  1  pound  of  orris  root,  the 
juice  of  4  lemons  and  of  4  oranges,  and 
the  peel  of  these  fruits.  Let  them  ma- 
cerate for  4  to  6  weeks,  then  filter  and 
compound  the  filtrate  with  6^  to  9 
pounds  of  sugar  syrup. 

Orange  Ratafia.  Slice  20  oranges, 
pour  13i  pounds  of  rectified  spirit  of  90 
per  cent.  Tr.  over  them,  and  let  them 
stand  for  8  days.  Then  press  out  the 
fluid,  filter  it,  and  add  a  solution  of 
10  pounds  of  sugar  in  14  gallons  of 
water. 

Apple  Ratafia.  26}  pounds  of  apple 
juice,  i  ounce  each  of  cloves  and  mace, 
7J  pounds  of  sugar,  and  22  pounds  of 
spirit  of  wine  are  alloAved  to  digest  for 
4  to  6  weeks,  then  add  some  ambergris, 
filter,  and  color  the  fluid  yellow. 

Pear  Ratafia.  26i  pounds  of  pear 
juice,  i  ounce  each  of  mace  and  cloves, 
7J  pounds  of  sugar,  and  22  pounds  of 
spirit  of  wine.  Treat  in  the  same 
manner  as  apple  ratafia. 

Stomachic  Ratafia.  Comminute  ?i 
ounces  of  pomegranates,  1  ounce  of 
calamus  root,  £  ounce  of  cloves,  2 
ounces  of  caraway  seed,  I  ounce  of 
cinnamon,  and  i  ounce  of  mace.  Pour 
1  gallon  of  spirit  of  wine  over  the 
ingredients,  and  allow  them  to  digest 
for  16  or  20  days.  Then  pour  off 
the  liquid,  and  press  out  the  residue. 
Pour  3  quarts  of  boiling  water  over  1 
ounce  of  peppermint,  drain  offthe  fluid, 
dissolve  in  it  3i  pounds  of  sugar,  and 


BLASTING  COMPOUNDS,  ETC. 


27 


add  this  to  the  above  fluid.  Then  let  it 
stand  quietly  for  3  or  4  weeks,  when 
the  clear  fluid  is  poured  off,  and  the 
sediment  filtered. 

Celery  Ratafia.  4}  ounces  of  celery 
seed,  5  drachms  of  coriander  seed,  and 
3  drachms  of  cardamons  are  commi- 
nuted and  digested  for  3  weeks  in  2i 
quarts  of  whiskey  24  per  cent,  strong, 
when  they  are  distilled  on  a  water  bath. 
The  distillate  is  sweetened  with  2£ 
pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  li  pints 
of  water. 

Scotch  Ratafia.  Mix  5£  ounces  of 
jujube  berries,  2i  ounces  of  saffron,  li 
ounces  of  dates,  li  ounces  of  grapes,  I 
drachm  of  coriander  seed,  f  drachm  of 
cinnamon,  and  pour  J  gallon  of  whiskey 
of  24  per  cent,  over  the  mixture.  After 
allowing  it  to  digest  for  14  days,  pour 
off  the  fluid,  and  add  to  it  the  fluid 
pressed  from  the  residue.  Sweeten  with 
2|  pounds  of  sugar  dissolved  in  li  pints 
of  water. 

Vanilla  Ratafia.  Cut  1  ounce  of 
vanilla  beans  in  small  pieces.  Pour 
13i  pounds  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  per 
cent.  Tr.  over  them,  add  i  fluid  drachm 
of  oil  of  orange  blossoms,  let  them  stand 
for  8  days,  then  filter,  add  11  pounds 
of  sugar  dissolved  in  1J  gallons  of 
water,  and  color  pale  red. 

Wormwood  Ratafia.  Dissolve  2  fluid 
drachms  of  oil  of  wormwood,  32  drops 
of  oil  of  cinnamon,  20  drops  each  of  oil 
of  cloves  and  oil  of  cardamons  in  1J 
gallons  of  rectified  spirit  of  90  percent. 
Tr. ;  sweeten  the  solution  with  a  syrup 
of  8J  pounds  of  sugar,  add  1  gallon  of 
water,  and  color  green. 


BLASTING  COMPOUNDS,  BLASTING 
POWDER,  DYNAMITE,  GUN-COTTON, 
GUNPOWDER,  NITRO-GLYCERINE, 
FULMINATES,  ETC. 

Among  the  blasting  compounds  nitro- 
glycerine and  the  explosive  substances, 
dynamite,  etc.,  derived  from  it,  occupy 
the  foremost  place. 

Nitro-glycerine  is  obtained  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner :  Fuming  nitric  acid  of 
49°  to  50°  Beaume  is  mixed  with  twice 
its  weight  of  highly  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid  in  a  vessel  kept  cool  by 
being  surrounded  with  cold  water. 
Ordinary  «ommercial  glycerine,  free 


from  lime  and  lead,  is  evaporated  to  30° 
or  31°  Beaume.  When  entirely  cold, 
it  should  be  of  a  syrupy  consistency.  7i 
pounds  of  the  cold  acid  mixture  are 
brought  into  a  glass  flask  or  earthen 
vessel ;  this  is  place'"1  in  cold  water,  and 
I  pound  of  glycerine  is  slowly  poured 
into  it ;  constant  stirring  being  kept  up 
during  the  addition  of  the  glycerine. 
Great  care  must  be  observed  to  avoid 
any  heating  of  the  mixture,  as  the  con- 
sequence of  this  would  be  an  oxidation 
of  the  glycerine  with  development  of 
carbonic  acid.  When  the  mixture  is 
complete,  it  is  allowed  to  stand  quietly 
for  5  or  10  minutes,  when  it  is  poured 
into  5  or  6  times  its  volume  of  cold 
water,  to  which  a  rotary  motion  has 
previously  been  imparted.  The  nitro- 
glvcerine  subsides  quickly  as  a  heavy 
oil,  which,  by  decantation,  is  brought 
into  a  vessel  of  greater  height  than 
width.  It  is  now  washed  with  water, 
until  not  a  trace  of  acid  reaction  is  in- 
dicated by  blue  litmus  paper,  when  it 
is  put  in  flasks  ready  for  use.  It  is  a 
yellow  or  brown  oil,  heavier  than 
water,  and  practically  insoluble  in  it, 
but  soluble  in  alcohol  and  ether.  When 
impure  or  acid,  it  decomposes  spon- 
taneously in  a  short  time,  with  develop- 
ment of  gas,  and  formation  of  oxalic 
and  glyceric  acids. 

Moivbray's  Process  of  Mawufactnri*g 
Nitro-glycerine.  This  product  is  pre- 
eminent because  of  its  stable  character. 
It  freezes  at  45°  F.,  is  clear  as  water, 
and  never  of  an  orange  color.  When 
detonated  it  does  not  produce  what 
is  known  as  glycerine  headache  and 
is  non-explosive  when  frozen.  These 
excellent  qualities  are  imparted  to 
it  by  the  care  taken  in  its  preparation. 
The  nitrifying  acid  is  made  in  a  well- 
ventilated  building,  in  which  are 
placed  five  retorts  each  of  \\  pounds' 
capacity  and  charged  with  10i  ounces 
of  sodium  nitrate  and  13i  ounces 
of  sulphuric  acid.  Terra-cotta  pipes 
conduct  the  vapors  from  each  retort 
into  a  row  of  four  earthenware  receivers 
standing  upon  a  trestle  raised  slightly 
above  the  floor.  165  pounds  of  sul- 
phuric acid  are  poured  into  the  first  two 
receivers  and  110  pounds  into  the  third, 
while  the  fourth  remains  empty.  The 
nitric  acid  vapors  are  condensed  in  the 
receivers,  whereby  the  mixture  of  acids 


28 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


required  for  nitrating  is  at  once  ob- 
tained. When  the  distillation,  which 
requires  24  hours,  is  finished,  the  acid 
mixture  (about  660  pounds)  is  drawn 
off  and  emptied  into  a  large  trough  of 
soapstone.  To  remove  the  hyponitric 
acid,  as  well  as  to  obtain  a  homogeneous 
mixture,  Mowbray  passes  a  current  of 
air  into  the  trough  through  an  iron 
pipe,  which  answers  the  purpose  per- 
fectly. This  operation  is  of  great  im- 
portance, as  the  presence  of  hyponitric 
acid  and  nitrous  acid  probably  causes 
the  spontaneous  decomposition  and  con- 
sequent explosion  of  this  substance. 
The  room  in  which  the  nitrating  pro- 
cess is  carried  on  is  about  103  feet  long 
and  contains  116  jars  of  earthenware  in 
9  wooden  troughs.  18f  pounds  of  acid 
are  poured  into  each  of  the  jars  and  the 
troughs  are  filled  with  ice  water,  or 
with  a  mixture  of  ice  and  salt,  to  within 
\  inch  of  the  edge  of  the  jars  containing 
the  acid.  Upon  a  shelf  above  the 
troughs  are  placed  glass  vessels,  one 
for  each  jar.  Each  contains  2k  pounds 
of  pure  glycerine  (not  crude  glycerine), 
which  is  conveyed  drop  by  drop  into 
the  acid  mixture  by  means  of  a  siphon 
and  rubber  hose.  Beneath  the  shelf 
upon  which  the  glycerine  vessels  stand 
runs  an  iron  pipe  2£  inches  in  diameter, 
through  which  passes  a  current  of  cold 
and  dry  air,  which  is  introduced  into 
the  jars,  while  the  acid  and  glycerine 
intermingle,  through  glass  tubes  16i 
inches  long  and  i  inch  in  diameter, 
li  hours  are  required  for  the  glycerine 
to  run  off,  and  the  greatest  attention 
and  care  are  necessary  during  this 
time.  The  three  workmen  overseeing 
the  mixing  process  walk  constantly  up 
and  down  with  a  thermometer  in  hand, 
and  should  they  find  the  temperature 
rising  in  one  of  the  jars,  or  that  red 
vapors  are  emitted,  they  stir  the  mix- 
ture with  a  glass  rod.  It  happens  some- 
times that  the  glycerine  runs  too  rap- 
idly, when  the  flow  must  be  diminished, 
and  in  case  the  engine  should  cease 
working  must  be  entirely  stopped  and 
the  mixture  stirred. 

When  the  conversion  of  glycerine  into 
nitro-glycerine  is  completed,  and  no 
more  red  vapors  escape,  the  jars  are 
emptied  into  a  vat  containing  cold 
water  (42.8°  F.).  The  quantity  pro- 
duced amounts  at  each  operation  to 


495  pounds.  In  this  vat  the  oil  sub- 
sides to  the  bottom,  being  covered  with 
water  about  6  feet  deep.  It  remains 
here  for  15  minutes,  when,  after  the 
water  has  been  run  off,  it  is  drawn  off 
into  another  vat  resembling  an  old- 
fashioned  churn,  but  much  larger. 
Here  it  is  washed  5  times — three  times 
with  pure  water  and  twice  with  a  solu- 
tion of  soda,  a  current  of  air  being 
passed  through  it  at  the  same  time. 
The  water  from  the  washing  apparatus 
is  allowed  to  run  into  a  vat,  and  from 
this  through  two  barrels  buried  in  the 
ground,  whence  it  finds  its  way  to  the 
outside.  If  any  of  the  oil  should  have 
been  carried  off  with  the  wash-water,  it 
is  regained  in  one  of  the  barrels.  The 
nitro-glycerine  is  then  transported  in 
copper  vessels  to  a  magazine  about  300 
feet  distant  from  the  work-room  and 
emptied  into  crocks  each  having  a  capa- 
city of  66  pounds.  These  are  placed  on 
wooden  shelves,  each  holding  about  20 
crocks,  which  are  immersed  in  water  of 
about  70°  F.,  reaching  to  within  6 
inches  of  the  edge  of  the  crocks.  Here 
they  remain  for  72  hours,  during  which 
time  the  impurities  that  may  be  con- 
tained in  the  oil  rise  to  the  surface  in 
the  form  of  a  scum,  which  is  removed 
with  a  spoon.  The  nitro-glycerine  is 
then  chemically  pure,  transparent  as 
water,  and  strongly  refracts  light.  In 
this  condition  it  is  ready  for  packing. 
The  tin  cans  used  for  this  purpose  are 
coated  inside  with  paraffine,  and  have 
a  capacity  of  61V  pounds  each.  When 
they  are  to  be  filled  they  are  placed  in 
a  shallow  wooden  vat ;  the  oil  is  first 
poured  into  copper  cans  and  then 
through  a  rubber  funnel  into  the  tin 
cans.  To  render  any  oil  which  may  be 
spilled  harmless  the  precaution  is  used 
to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  vat  with  a 
thick  layer  of  plaster  of  Paris,  which 
quickly  absorbs  the  fluid.  When  the 
cans  have  been  filled  they  are  placed 
in  a  wooden  vat  filled  with  ice  water, 
or  ice  and  salt,  until  their  contents  are 
frozen,  and  30  to  40  of  them  are  stored 
away  together  in  smaller  magazines  at 
a  distance  of  about  325  feet  from  the 
factory.  For  transporting  the  nitro- 
glycerine the  tin  cans  are  packed  in 
open  wooden  boxes,  the  bottom  of 
which  is  covered  with  several  inches  of 
sponge.  Around  the  cans  themselves 


BLASTING   COMPOUNDS,  ETC. 


29 


are  fastened  two  gutta-percha  tubes 
crossing  each  other  on  the  bottom  of 
the  can.  To  thaw  the  nitro-glyeerine 
each  can  is  provided  with  a  tube  about 
10  inches  long  and  1£  inches  in  diame- 
ter, passing  through  the  centre  from  top 
to  bottom,  into  which  water  of  from  70  to 
90°  F.  is  poured.  The  cans  are  closed 
by  a  cork  covered  with  a  piece  of  blad- 
der. Sleighs  are  used  in  winter  for 
transporting  the  cans,  and  in  summer 
wagons  covered  with  a  layer  of  ice  and 
this  with  a  blanket. 

R.  Bdttger  recommends  the  following 
process  as  free  from  risk  for  preparing 
small  quantities  of  nitro-glyeerine  :  A 
few  grammes  of  anhydrous  and  entirely 
pure  glycerine  are  poured  into  a  test- 
glass  kept  cool  by  being  surrounded 
with  a  freezing  mixture,  and  containing 
1  part  by  volume  of  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid  of  1.52  gravity,  and  2  parts 
by  volume  of  stronger  sulphuric  acid 
of  1.83  gravity.  The  mixture  is  poured 
as  quickly  as  possible  into  a  larger  vol- 
ume of  water.  In  this  the  nitro-glyeer- 
ine, resembling  drops  of  oil,  subsides  to 
the  bottom ;  it  is  then  washed  and  re- 
washed,  first  with  water,  and  finally 
with  a  weak  solution  of  soda.  It  is 
freed  from  water  by  means  of  a  few 
small  pieces  of  chloride  of  calcium, 
when  a  product  will  be  obtained  of 
such  purity  that  it  may  be  kept  with- 
out risk  for  an  indefinite  time  and  with- 
out suffering  decomposition. 

Dynamite  possesses  all  the  properties 
of  nitro-glyeerine  for  blasting  purposes, 
and  is  less  dangerous.  Explosion  is 
accomplished  by  means  of  a  percussion 
cap  in  the  same  manner  as  with  nitro- 
glycerine. The  most  common  mode  of 
milking  dynamite  is  by  mixing  75  per 
cent,  of  nitre-glycerine  with  25  per 
cent,  of  powdered  sand. 

Dynamite,  according  to  77.  Champion 
and  H.  Pellet,  may  be  divided  into,  a, 
dynamite  with  an  inert  absorbent  (in- 
fusorial earth,  ashes,  tripoli,  etc.),  and 
b,  dynamite  with  an  active  absorbent. 
In  the  latter  variety  rosin,  finely-pow- 
dered coal,  or  saltpetre  are  used  as 
absorbents.  To  this  class  belong  dualin, 
lithofracteur,  etc. 

To  make  the  manufacture  of  dyna- 
mite less  dangerous,  A.  Sohrero  suggests 
to  stir  infusorial  earth  with  water  into 
a  dough,  form  it  into  shapes  of  suitable 


size,  dry  them  at  212°  F.,  and  finally 
dip  them  into  nitro-glyeerine.  Dyna- 
mite with  75  per  cent,  of  effective  ex- 
plosive can  be  prepared  in  this  manner. 

Cellulose  Dynamite.  Fra  nzl  has  suc- 
ceeded in  producing  a  nitro-glyeerine 
powder  which,  while  it  possesses  all 
the  properties  of  dynamite  prepared 
with  infusorial  earth,  has  the  advan- 
tage of  being  unaffected  by  water.  He 
found  that  certain  organic  absorbents 
possessed  the  property  of  retaining  ab- 
sorbed nitro-glyceriue,even  when  placed 
under  water,  and  did  not  lose  their  ex- 
plosive power.  The  nitrogenized  ab- 
sorbents— wood  fibre  and  gun-cotton — 
were  found  to  be  too  dangerous  for 
manufacturing  large  quantities.  But 
Franzl  has  now  succeeded  in  preparing 
a  wood  fibre  which  absorbs  from  70  to 
75  per  cent,  of  nitro-glyceriue,  which 
retains  these  proportions  unchanged 
when  in  contact  with  water,  and  which 
retains  also  its  explosive  power  after 
being  pressed  out  and  dried. 

Norbin  &  Ohlsson's  Patent  Dynamite 
consists  of  a  mixture  of  ammonium 
nitrate,  with  8  to  10  per  cent,  of  pulver- 
ized charcoal  or  coal,  and  10  to  30  per 
cent,  of  uitro-glycerine.  The  compound, 
which,  on  account  of  the  hygroscopic 
property  of  the  ammonium  nitrate,  must 
be  kept  in  metallic  cases  or  glass 
vessels,  is  exploded  by  means  of  a  per- 
cussion cap. 

A.  Nobel's  Dynamite  is  a  mixture  of 
69  parts  of  saltpetre,  7  of  paraffine  or 
naphthaline,  7  of  coal  dust,  and  20  of 
nitro-glyeerine.  It  is  claimed  that  the 
addition  of  paraffine  or  naphthaline 
renders  the  mixture  less  hygroscopic. 

Lithofracteur,  as  manufactured  by 
Krcbs  &  Co.  of  Deutz,  is  composed  of 
52  parts  of  nitro-glyeerine,  30  of  infusor- 
ial earth,  12  of  coal,  4  of  saltpetre,  and 
2  of  sulphur. 

Diftmar's  Dualin  consists  of  50  parts 
of  nitro-glyeerine,  50  of  nitrated  saw- 
dust, and  20  of  saltpetre. 

New  Dynamite  by  Anthoine  &  Gen- 
aud.  In  this  preparation  unsized  paper 
takes  the  place  of  silica.  The  paper  is 
not  only  saturated  with  nitro-glycerine, 
but  dipped  in  succession  into  solutions 
of  saltpetre,  potassium  chlorate,  and 
potassium  picrate. 

Carbodzotine.  This  explosive  mix- 
ture, patented  in  France  by  de  Soulagea 


30 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


and  Cahuc,  is  composed  of  50  to  64 
parts  of  saltpetre,  13  to  16  of  sulphur, 
14  to  16  of  spent  tan,  or  very  fine  saw- 
dust, 9  to  18  of  lampblack,  and  4  to  5 
of  ferrous  sulphate.  The  mixture  is 
heated  with  a  suitable  quantity  of  water 
to  230°  to  248°  F.,  then  allowed  to  cool, 
and  the  solid  mass  dried  and  shaped 
into  bricks. 

JS  rise-rocs,  an  explosive  agent  patent- 
ed by  Hobauai,  consists  of  40  parts  of 
saltpetre,  20  of  soda  saltpetre,  15  of 
sulphur,  1  of  rock  salt,  and  J  5  of  woody 
substance,  spent  tan,  sawdust,  etc. 

Pudrolitli.  Pocli's  blasting  powder, 
known  under  this  name,  consists  of  3 
parts  by  weight  of  spent  tan,  5  of  saw- 
dust, 3  of  soda  saltpetre,  3  of  barium 
nitrate,  6  of  wood  charcoal,  12  of 
sulphur,  and  68  of  saltpetre.  The 
barium  and  sodium  salts  are  dissolved 
in  hot  water,  the  tan  and  sawdust 
stirred  into  the  solution,  and  the  mix- 
ture is  evaporated  to  dryness.  The 
other  ingredients,  previously  pulver- 
ized, are  intimately  mixed  with  the 
powdered  residue  in  a  revolving  cylin- 
der. 

Pyrolith.  This  blasting  powder, 
patented  by  Wattlen,  and  used  for 
blasting  hard  rocks,  such  as  granite,  etc., 
consists  of  12.5  parts  by  weight  of  saw- 
dust, 67.5  of  saltpetre,  and  20  of  flowers 
of  sulphur. 

For  blasting  softer  rocks,  such  as 
limestone,  coal,  etc.,  Wattlen  recom- 
mends the  following  composition:  11 
parts  by  weight  of  sawdust,  50.5  of  salt- 
petre, 16  of  soda  saltpetre,  1.5  of  pow- 
dered charcoal,  and  20  of  flowers  of 
sulphur. 

Trets'  Blasting  Powder,  patented  in 
England,  consists  of  52.5  per  cent,  of 
Chili  soda  saltpetre,  20  per  cent,  of 
sulphur,  and  27.5  per  cent,  of  spent 
tan. 

Frozen  Dynamite.  Dynamite,  when 
frozen  solid,  is  comparatively  valueless,^ 
as  in  thawing  for  use  it  becomes  injured 
and  sometimes  ignites ;  but  by  granulat- 
ing it,  as  freezing  takes  place,  and  keep- 
ing it  in  this  condition,  it  may  be  trans- 
ported, handled,  or  poured  and  rammed 
into  bore  holes  with  entire  safety  and 
convenience.  Freezing  the  dynamite 
in  grains  may  be  readily  accomplished 
by  passing  it  through  a  coarse  sieve 
after  it  is  manufactured,  but  just  before 


it  congeals,  and  allowing  it  to  fall 
loosely  and  lie  undisturbed  during  its 
exposure  to  a  freezing  temperature. 
The  particles  will  slightly  adhere,  but 
may  be  readily  separated  by  stirring. 
:  Dynamite  so  frozen  will  readily  explode 
by  the  ordinary  means,  but  the  cap 
should  have  about  three  times  the  usual 
quantity  of  fulminate. 

Augendre's  White  Powder.  This 
powder  may  be  advantageously  used 
for  blasting  very  hard  rock,  although 
it  is  somewhat  expensive.  Considerable 
care  and  caution  are  required  in  ram- 
ming it  into  the  drill  holes,  and  for  this 
reason  the  work  should  be  only  in- 
trusted to  experienced  workmen.  By 
the  following  process  Augendre's  gun- 
powder can  be  produced  as  a  very  ho- 
mogeneous mixture  and  of  great  explo- 
sive energy.  The  three  ingredients  of 
white  gunpowder,  potassium  ferrocy- 
anide,  sugar,  and  potassium  chlorate, 
are  pulverized,  each  by  itself,  in  a  mor- 
tar, and  then  thoroughly  dried.  Each 
of  the  ingredients,  when  dry,  is  again 
pulverized  as  finely  as  possible,  and 
passed  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  The 
respective  quantities  of  the  ingredients 
are  then  weighed  oft',  poured  upon  a 
sheet  of  paper,  and  intimately  mixed 
with  the  fingers  or  with  a  feather.  The 
powder  is  then  placed  in  a  capacious 
porcelain  mortar,  moistened  with  abso- 
lute alcohol,  and  an  intimate  mixture 
is  produced  by  continued  rubbing  with 
a  pestle,  the  process  being  entirely  free 
from  danger  if  done  in  this  manner. 
The  powder,  which  is  now  in  the  form 
of  a  stiff  dough,  is  spread  upon  a  smooth 
board  and  dried  in  a  warm  room.  The 
alcohol  evaporates  quickly,  when  the 
thin,  dry  cakes  of  powder  are  crushed 
between  two  smooth  boards,  and  the 
powder  passed  through  a  fine  sieve.  In 
this  manner  it  is  obtained  in  the  form 
of  very  fine,  intimately  mixed  dust, 
possessing  excellent  explosive  proper- 
ties. 

Jfafenegger's  Gun  and  Blasting  Pow- 
der, several  varieties  of  which  have 
been  patented  in  England,  resembles 
Aiigendre's  white  powder.  Their  com- 
position is  as  follows : 

I.  Nine    parts  of  potassium    chlor- 
ate, i  of  sulphur,  and  £  of  wood  char- 
coal. 

II.  Two  parts  of  potassium  chlorate, 


BLASTING   COMPOUNDS,  ETC. 


31 


1  of  refined  sugar,  and  1  of  potassium 
-ferrocyanide. 

III.  Four  parts  of  potassium  chlorate, 
1  of  sulphur  or  sugar,  i  of  wood  char- 
coal, and  1  of  potassium  ferrocyaiiide. 

IV.  Four  parts  of  potassium  chlorate, 
4  of  sugar,  i  of  wood  charcoal,  and  i  of 
sulphur. 

V.  One  part  of  potassium  chlorate 
and  1  of  sugar. 

VI.  Eleven  parts  of  potassium  chlor- 
ate, i  of  sulphur,  and  i  of  wood  char- 
coal. 

Dr.  Borlinetto's  Gunpoivder.  Mix 
very  intimately  10  parts  of  Chili  salt- 
petre, 10  of  picric  acid,  and  8}  of  potas- 
sium bichromate. 

Sharp  &  Smith's  Patent  Gunpoicder 
consists  of  2  parts  of  saltpetre,  2  of  po- 
tassium chlorate,  1  of  potassium  ferro- 
cyanide, 1  of  potassium  tartrate,  and  2 
of  sulphur. 

Spence's  Powder  for  Cannon  of  Large 
Calibre.  Two  parts  by  weight  of  finely- 
pulverized  charcoal  are  boiled  with  38 
parts  by  weight  of  water.  The  boiling 
is  interrupted  after  a  short  time,  and, 
with  constant  stirring,  20  parts  by 
weight  of  potassium  chlorate,  2  of  pul- 
verized coal,  and  4  of  sodium  bicarbon- 
ate are  added  to  the  mixture  of  charcoal 
and  water.  The  mass  is  again  brought 
to  the  boiling  point,  7  parts  by  weight 
of  fine  sawdust  are  added,  and  the  boil- 
ing continued  until  the  woody  mass  has 
formed  a  magma  with  the  water.  When 
this  is  done  the  mass  is  evaporated  in 
open  pans  until  it  is  of  a  consistency  to 
be  granulated  in  the  usual  manner  in 
the  powder-mill. 

Non-explosive  Powder.  When  this 
powder  is  ignited  it  does  not  explode, 
but  burns  slowly  with  a  hissing  noise. 
It  loosens  and  raises  stones  without 
blasting  them.  It  is  cheaper  than  the 
ordinary  powder,  of  quite  a  coarse 
grain,  and  contains  3  parts  of  potassium 
nitrate  to  1  of  sodium  nitrate.  The 
powder  is  mixed  in  the  following  pro- 
portions: 56.22  to  56.23  per  cent,  of 
potassium  nitrate,  18.33  to  18.39  per 
cent,  of  sodium  nitrate,  9.68  per  cent, 
of  sulphur,  and  14,14  to  15.01  per  cent, 
of  charcoal. 

Green's  .Blasting  Powder  consists 
principally  of  barium  nitrate,  contains 
but  little  saltpetre  and  no  sulphur. 
There  is  less  danger  in  manufacturing 


it  than  gunpowder,  but  it  is  not  fit  for 
firearms.  It  possesses  the  great  advan- 
tage of  not  emitting  thick  smoke  or 
choking  gases,  and  therefore  does  not 
interrupt  the  work  in  mines;  and  fur- 
ther, that  it  takes  up  less  room  than 
gunpowder  and  is  much  cheaper.  Its 
e  fleet  as  compared  with  gunpowder  is 
as  18  to  11. 

Giant  Dynamite  is  a  mixture  of  18 
to  28  parts  by  weight  of  pyroxyline,  55 
to  44  of  nitro-glycerine,  5  to  10  of  pyro- 
paper,  20  to  16  of  nitro-starch,  1  to  1  of 
nitromannite,  and  I  to  2  of  water-glass. 
The  materials,  which  should  be  free 
from  acid,  are  carefully  mixed  and 
brought  under  a  cartridge  press,  in  the 
stamp  of  which  is  fastened  a  needle 
which  makes  a  hole  in  the  cartridge  for 
the  reception  of  the  fuse.  The  cartridge 
thus  prepared  is  hermetically  closed 
with  collodion,  and  packed  in  the  same 
manner  as  lithofracteur.  Shortly  be- 
fore the  cartridge  is  to  be  used  the 
coating  of  collodion  is  broken  on  those 
places  where  the  holes  are  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  fuse.  This  consists  of 
soft  gun-cotton  impregnated  with  potas- 
sium chlorate  and  plumbic  ferrocyan- 
ide, and  is  }>revented  from  dropping 
through  by  a  knot  on  one  end.  It  is 
drawn  through  the  holes  and  a  Bick- 
ford's  fuse  fastened  to  the  other  end. 

Blasting  Compound  from  Pot -i to- 
Starch.  The  process  is  similar  to  that 
of  manufacturing  nitro-glycerine.  The 
potato-starch  is  shaken  with  concen- 
trated nitric  acid  until  it  is  dissolved, 
and  then,  with  vigorous  stirring,  poured 
into  sulphuric  acid,  whereby  the  prep- 
aration  is  separated  in  a  finely-divided 
condition.  All  traces  of  acid  are  then 
removed  by  washing  and  rewashing, 
and  treating  the  preparation  with  so- 
dium carbonate.  The  explosive  starch 
flour,  Avhen  dry,  forms  a  tender  white 
powder.  When  touched  with  a  glowing 
piece  of  wood  it  is  quickly  consumed 
with  a  yellow  flame  without  leaving  a 
residue.  A  great  advantage  of  the  ex- 
plosive starch  flour  is  that  it  explodes 
only  after  having  been  repeatedly 
struck  with  a  hammer  upon  an  anvil. 
Its  ignition  temperature  is  between 
356°  and  374°  F.  In  external  appear- 
ance this  explosive  agent  does  not  differ 
from  ordinary  starch  flour.  It  remains 
entirely  unchanged  when,  boiled  in 


32 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


water,  but  loses  the  property  of  being 
colored  blue  by  iodine.  If  examined 
with  the  microscope  the  well-known 
starch  globules  cannot  be  detected. 

A  Ne^v  Blasting  Powder,  patented  in 
Germany  by  Th.  Martinsen,  consists  of: 

PARTS. 

I.  II.  III. 

Saltpetre .70  64  56 

Sulphur 12  12  22 

Lampblack 5  3  3 

Sawdust  or  tan 13  21  29 

Ferrous  sulphate 2  3  5 

The  ferrous  sulphate  is  completely 
dissolved  in  a  little  water,  and  the  other 
components  are  mixed  with  it  at  248° 
to  266°  F.  The  mixture  is  cooled  off 
by  constantly  stirring  it  and  then  dried. 
This  powder  can  be  stored,  transported, 
and  used  without  danger,  and  develops 
no  smoke  in  the  mine.  The  first  mix- 
ture is  intended  for  dense  rocks,  the 
second  for  anthracite,  and  the  third  for 
bituminous  coal. 

To  protect  blasting  agents  containing 
nitro-glycerine  and  ammonium  nitrate 
from  moisture,  and  to  prevent  the  ex- 
udation of  the  nitro-glycerine,  Nobel 
adds  paraffine  to  them.  He  recom- 
mends the  following  proportions:  69 
per  cent,  of  sodium  nitrate,  7  per  cent, 
of  paraffine,  and  4  per  cent,  of  charcoal. 
These  ingredients  are  carefully  mixed, 
and  20  per  cent,  of  nitro-glycerine  is 
added  to  the  mixture.  Or,  75  per  cent, 
of  ammonium  nitrate,  3  per  cent,  of 
charcoal,  4  per  cent,  of  paraffine,  and 
18  per  cent,  of  nitro-glycerine. 

Giant  Powder.  Forty  parts  of  nitro- 
glycerine are  mixed  with  60  parts  of  a 
dry  mixture,  consisting  of  40  parts  of 
sodium  nitrate,  6  of  rosin,  6  of  sulphur, 
and  8  of  infusorial  earth  or  other  anal- 
ogous absorbent  substance.  This  forms 
a  powerful  blasting  compound,  which 
will  not  ignite  from  contact  with  flame 
nor  from  a  blow,  but  may  be  readily 
exploded  by  the  shock  given  by  dis- 
charging a  cap  containing  fulminate. 

Faure  &  French's  Blasting  Com- 
pound is  a  mixture  of  1  part  of  char- 
coal, 16  of  barium  nitrate,  and  1  of 
nitro-cellulose  stirred  into  a  dough  with 
some  water  and  then  formed  into  disks 
and  dried. 

Gun- Cotton.  Cotton-wool  is  im- 
mersed in  a  boiling  dilute  solution  of 


potassium  carbonate,  then  washed  with 
water  and  well  dried.  It  is  now  steeped  , 
for  a  few  minutes  in  a  cold  mixture  of 
1  part  of  concentrated  nitric  acid  and  3 
of  oil  of  vitriol,  then  squeezed,  and 
again  placed  in  a  fresh  acid  mixture 
and  left  there  for  48  hours.  It  is  then, 
again  well  squeezed  and  washed  for  a 
long  time  with  running  water,  and  fin- 
ally steeped  in  a  solution  of  potassium 
carbonate. 

Gun-cotton  thus  manufactured  will 
keep  without  change  indefinitely,  and 
may  be  kept  under  water  for  safety's 
sake,  and  possesses,  after  drying,  all  its 
original  properties. 

It  is  insoluble  in  water,  alcohol,  and 
ether.  It  takes  fire  at  300°  F.,  burning 
away  rapidly  but  without  explosion; 
but  when  ignited  in  a  confined  space, 
or  by  percussion,  it  decomposes  with  a 
violent  detonation,  the  energy  of  which 
equals  that  of  five  times  its  weight  of 
gunpowder. 

New  Blasting  Compounds. 

1.  Peralite  is  a  coarse-grained  pow- 
der consisting  of  64  per  cent,  of  salt- 
petre, 30  per  cent,  of  charcoal,  and  6 
per  cent,  of  sulphide  of  antimony. 

2.  J aline  contains  05  to  75  per  cent, 
of  saltpetre,  10  per  cent,  of  sulphur,  10 
to  15  per  cent,  of  lignite,  3  to  8  per  cent, 
of  sodium  pit-rate,  and  2  per  cent,  of 
potassium  chlorate. 

New  Blasting  Compound  from  a 
Combination  of  Honey  and.  Glycerine. 
The  following  proportions  by  weight 
are  used : 

No.  I.  Fifty  parts  of  combination  of 
honey  and  glycerine,  12  of  potassium 
chlorate,  16  of  potassium  nitrate,  17  of 
prepared  sawdust,  and  5  of  prepared 
chalk. 

No.  II.  Thirty-eight  parts  of  com- 
bination of  honey  and  glycerine,  19  of 
potassium  chlorate,  24  of  potassium 
nitrate,  10  of  prepared  sawdust,  and  9 
of  prepared  chalk. 

The  combination  of  honey  and  gly- 
cerine is  prepared  as  follows :  Mix  1 
part  of  nitric  acid  of  1.50  specific  grav- 
ity and  2  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  of  1.84 
specific  gravity,  and  let  the  mixture 
cool  off  to  62°  F.  Eight  parts  of  this 
mixture  are  placed  in  a  wooden  vessel 
lined  with  lead,  and  to  this  is  added, 
with  slow  and  constant  stirring,  1  part 


BLASTING  COMPOUNDS,  ETC. 


33 


of  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  honey  and 
glycerine,  keeping  the  temperature  of 
the  compound  between  59°  and  68°  F. 
After  stirring  for  about  5  minutes  the 
combination  of  honey  and  glycerine 
settles  on  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  It 
is  then  separated  from  the  supernatant 
acid  and  washed  first  with  water  and 
next  with  a  solution  of  soda  to  remove 
the  last  traces  of  acid.  It  is  now  ready 
for  mixing  with  the  other  ingredients, 
which  must  have  been  previously  pul- 
verized and  intimately  mixed.  The 
sawdust  flour  is  prepared  by  passing 
ordinary  sawdust  through  a  fine  sieve 
and  boiling  it  in  a  solution  of  soda  until 
all  resinous  and  coloring  substances 
have  been  extracted,  when  it  is  washed 
in  cold  water  and  dried. 

Preparation  of  Blasting  Compounds 
by  directly  Nitrating  Crude  Tar  Oils. 
The  crude  tar  oils  are  gradually  com- 
pounded by  constant  stirring  with  nitric 
acid  of  a  high  grade.  The  clear  oil 
standing  over  the  precipitate  is  poured 
off  into  another  vessel,  nitric  acid  added 
to  the  residue,  and  the  process  repeated. 

The  iiitrogenized  substances  obtained 
in  this  manner  are  washed,  dried,  and 
mixed  with  substances  yielding  oxygen. 
The  nitrates  of  alkalies,  potassium 
chlorate,  and  the  strongest  nitric  acid 
(1.5  specific  gravity)  are  principally 
used  for  the  purpose. 

Gelatinous  Nitro-glycerine.  Cotton 
carefully  cleansed  aiid  comminuted  is 
boiled  in  a  closed  boiler  with  5  parts  by 
weight  of  dextrine  and  some  acetate  of 
ammonium ;  the  resulting  jelly,  of  which 
as  much  as  7  per  cent,  may  be  dissolved 
in  nitro-glycerine,  forms  with  it  a  mass 
from  which  no  nitro-glycerine  can  es- 
cape. 

To  prepare  the  blasting  compound 
"Forcite  "  76  parts  of  the  above  gelat- 
inous nitro-glycerine  are  mixed  with 
15  parts  of  saltpetre  and  9  of  sawdust. 

Cartridge  Shells  of  Easily  Comb)'  fi- 
ble  Subs' ances.  The  material  consists 
of  very  loosely  woven  cotton  or  silk 
tissue,  which  is  impregnated  with  nitro- 
glycerine, or  with  a  mixture  of  sulphur 
and  saltpetre.  When  the  tissue  is  dry, 
collodion,  to  which  a  small  quantity  of 
castor  oil  has  been  added,  is  poured 
over  it  and  it  is  then  smoothed  between 
rollers. 

fulminate  of  Mercury  is  used  for 
3 


filling  percussion  caps.  It  is  prepared 
on  a  large  scale  by  dissolving  I  part  of 
mercury  in  12  of  pure  nitric  acid  of  1.36 
specific  gravity,  and  adding  12  of  spirit 
of  wine,  when  a  violent  reaction  takes 
place,  which  is  kept  in  check  by  adding 
gradually  more  alcohol.  First,  the 
liquid  becomes  black  by  the  separation 
of  metallic  mercury,  which,  however, 
soon  disappears.  When  the  liquid  be- 
comes cool  the  fulminate  of  mercury 
separates  as  a  crystalline  powder.  It 
is  nearly  insoluble  in  cold  water :  from 
a  boiling  solution  it  is  obtained  in  white 
prismatic  crystals.  When  kindled  in 
the  open  air  it  burns  away  like  gun- 
powder, but  by  percussion  it  is  decom- 
posed with  a  violent  detonation.  The 
explosion  of  the  fulminate  is  so  violent 
and  rapid  that  it  is  necessary  to  moder- 
ate it  for  percussion  caps.  For  this 
purpose  it  is  mixed  with  potassium 
nitrate  or  chlorate.  For  gun  caps 
potassium  chlorate  is  generally  mixed 
with  the  fulminate,  and  powdered  glass 
is  sometimes  added  to  increase  the  sen- 
sibility of  the  mixture  to  explosion  by 
percussion.  After  a  little  of  the  com' 
position  has  been  introduced  into  the 
rap,  it  is  made  to  adhere  by  a  drop  of 
solution  of  shellac  in  spirit  of  wine, 
which  renders  it  also  water-proof. 

Fulminate  of  Silver.  Ten  grains  of 
pure  silver  are  dissolved,  at  a  gentle 
heat,  in  70  drops  of  concentrated  nitric 
acid  of  1.42  specific  gravity  and  50 
drops  of  water.  As  soon  as  the  silver 
is  dissolved  the  heat  is  removed  and 
2,000  drops  of  alcohol  are  added.  If 
the  action  does  not  commence  after  a 
short  time,  a  very  gentle  heat  may  be 
applied  until  effervescence  begins,  when 
the  fulminate  of  silver  will  be  deposited 
in  minute  needles,  and  may  be  further 
treated  as  in  the  case  of  fulminate  of 
mercury.  When  dry  the  fulminate  of 
silver  must  be  handled  with  the  greatest 
caution,  since  it  is  exploded  far  more 
easily  than  the  fulminate  of  mercury. 
It  should  be  kept  in  small  quantities, 
wrapped  up  separately  in  paper,  and 
placed  in  a  pasteboard  box.  The  vio- 
lence of  its  explosion  renders  it  useless 
for  percussion  caps,  but  it  is  employed 
in  detonating  crackers. 

Fulminating  Platinum  is  obtained 
by  dissolving  bin  oxide  of  platinum  iu 
diluted  sulphuric  acid  and  mixing  the 


34 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT   BOOK. 


solution  with  an  excess  of  ammonia, 
when  a  black  precipitate  will  result 
which  detonates  violently  at  about 
400°  F. 

Fulminating  Gold  is  obtained  as  a 
buff-colored  precipitate  when  ammonia 
is  added  to  a  solution  of  terchloride  of 
gold.  It  explodes  violently  when 
gently  heated. 


BLEACHING. 

Neiv  Method  of  Bleaching  Cotton 
Yarns,  Tissues,  etc.  This  new  method 
of  bleaching,  invented  by  Banes  and 
Grisdales,  is  based  upon  rendering  the 
goods  more  porous  and  receptive  of  the 
bleaching  agent  of  any  kind  by  treating 
them  in  a  vacuum  boiler  from  which 
the  air  is  removed  by  an  air-pump. 

Cleansing  of  Cotton  and  other  Vege- 
table Fibres.  Mix  8  parts  of  soda  with 
1  part  of  unslaked  lime,  and  stir  the 
mixture  with  a  quantity  of  water  suffi- 
cient to  dissolve  the  soda.  Then  allow 
the  fluid  to  clear  by  standing,  and  pour 
it  off  from  the  residue.  The  clear  fluid, 
according  to  circumstances,  should  show 
1.5°  to  2.5°  of  Twaddle:  1.5°  is  suffi- 
cient for  fine,  light  goods,  while  a 
stronger  fluid  is  required  for  coarse, 
heavy  materials.  The  yarns  or  tissues 
are  dipped  for  30  to  50  minutes  in  the 
fluid,  and  then  bleached  in  the  usual 
manner. 

To  Bleach  Cotton  Goods  with  Woven 
Borders.  1.  Soak  in  alkaline  lye.  2. 
Rinse  thoroughly,  using  a  centrifugal. 
3.  Boil  with  solution  of  soap  in  a  high- 
pressure  boiler.  4.  Place  them  for  6  to 
8  hours  in  Javelle's  lye.  5.  Rinse 
thoroughly  with  water.  6.  Pass  them 
through  a  hydrochloric  acid  bath.  7. 
Rinse  in  ammoniacal  water.  8.  Pass 
them  through  a  centrifugal,  and  dry. 

To  Bleach  Muslin.  For  100  pounds. 
Boil  the  muslin  for  4  to  6  hours  in  a 
lye  consisting  of  4V  pounds  of  caustic 
soda,  then  rinse  it  out  and  winch.  Now 
place  the  muslin  in  a  bleaching  bath 
composed  of  5£  pounds  of  chloride  of 
lime  of  100°  and  water ;  allow  it  to  re- 
main in  this  for  8  to  12  hours  and  then 
place  it  in  fresh  water  to  which  1  pound 
of  sulphuric  acid  has  been  added. 
Here  it  remains  for  1  hour,  when  it  is 
rinsed  and  dried. 


Frohnheiser's  Method  of  Bleaching 
Cotton.  Five  pounds  of  calcined  soda 
and  3  pounds  of  chloride  of  lime  are 
mixed,  each  by  itself,  with  water,  and 
then  poured  together.  The  mixture  is 
allowed  to  settle  and  the  clear  fluid 
poured  off.  In  it  200  pounds  of  cotton 
yarn  are  boiled  for  8  hours  and  then 
rinsed  in  water.  Now  10  pounds  of 
chloride  of  lime  are  stirred  with  water 
and  li  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid  added 
to  it.  In  this  the  yarn  is  placed  for  6 
to  8  hours,  when  it  is  brought  into  a 
cold-water  bath  to  which  5  pounds  of 
sulphuric  acid  have  been  added.  It 
remains  here  for  6  hours,  when  it  is 
rinsed  in  warm  water  and  is  then 
brought  into  a  solution  of  3  pounds  of 
potash  or  4  pounds  of  calcined  soda, 
where  it  remains  for  3  to  4  hours,  when 
it  is  thoroughly  washed,  passed  through 
a  centrifugal,  and  then  completely 
dried. 

To  Bleach  Cotton  Piece  Goods.  1. 
Wash  the  pieces  thoroughly  in  a  wash- 
ing machine.  2.  Boil  for  6  hours  in  a 
high-pressure  boiler  with  an  addition 
of  milk  of  lime.  3.  Place  them  over 
night  in  a  hydrochloric  acid  bath  of  3° 
Beaume.  4.  Rinse  them  thoroughly  to 
remove  all  traces  of  acid.  5.  Boil  for  4 
hours  in  a  solution  of  soda  of  5°  Beaume. 
6.  Remove  all  traces  of  the  solution  of 
soda  by  rinsing.  7.  Place  them  for  6 
hours  in  a  perfectly  clear  bath  of  chlo- 
ride of  lime  of  4°  Beaume.  8.  Place 
them  for  half  an  hour  in  the  hydro- 
chloric acid  bath.  9.  Remove  all  traces 
of  acid  by  rinsing. 

In  place  of  the  hydrochloric  acid 
bath  a  sulphuric  acid  bath  may  be  used. 
The  lime  separated  by  this  has  the 
effect  of  loading  the  fibre. 

Cotton,  as  it  comes  from  the  spinning 
machine,  can  be  bleached  by  placing  it 
in  a  hermetically  closed  box  and  passing 
through  a  current  of  freshly  developed 
chloroform.  The  chloroform  is  devel- 
oped in  an  alembic  from  equal  parts  of 
chloride  of  lime, 'caustic  time,  and  alco- 
hol, and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water 
to  form  a  thin  paste,  and  enters  the  box 
in  the  form  of  vapor.  Towards  the  end 
of  the  operation  sulphuric  acid  is  slowly 
added  to  the  chloroform  mixture,  where- 
by the  development  of  vapor  is  pro- 
moted. After  the  vapor  has  acted  upon 
the  cotton  for  1  hour  the  alembic  is  re- 


BLEACHING. 


moved  and  a  strong  current  of  a  mix- 
ture of  carbonic  acid,  vapor  of  ether, 
and  hydrogen  gas  is  passed  into  the  box 
for  10  to  12  hours,  when  the  cotton  will 
be  thoroughly  bleached  and  is  dried  in 
the  drying  room. 

Bleaching  of  Woollen  Tissues.  The 
process  of  bleaching  woollen  tissues 
may  be  divided  into  Cleansing  and 
Bleaching  the  goods. 

1.  Cleansing.    This  is  done  with  soap 
and  soda  in  a  special  apparatus.   Woven 
woollen  goods  should  not  be  brought 
into  the  apparatus  in  loose  folds  like 
cotton,  but  must  be  kept  stretched,  or 
else  they  lose  much  of  their  beauty. 
The  temperature  of  the  bath  must  not 
be  raised  too  high.     If  the  goods  are  to 
be  bleached  entirely  white  the  treat- 
ment with  soda  and  soap  must  be  re- 
peated several  times.    Clauzon  cleanses 
the  wool  without  employing  heat,  and 
uses  for  this  purpose  a  weak  solution  of 
ordinary  soda,  brings  it  then  into  very 
dilute  sulphuric  acid,  and  finally  into 
water.     For  very  fine  goods  he  uses 
ammonium  carbonate  instead  of  soda. 
In  bleaching  he  first  dips  the  wool  in  a 
solution  of  soda,  then  exposes  it  to  the 
fumes  of  burning  sulphur,  and  finally 
washes  it. 

The  use  of  caustic  soda  is  not  without 
danger,  as,  besides  the  fatty  substances, 
the  wool  itself  may  be  decomposed. 
The  operation  must  be  carefully  and 
constantly  watched  to  prevent  the  pres- 
ence of  an  excess  of  caustic  soda  in  the 
bath.  When  the  cloths  have  been 
thoroughly  cleansed  the  next  opera- 
tion is 

2.  Bleaching.    This  is  accomplished 
by  means  of  sulphurous  acid.      This 
gas  has  an  entirely  different  effect  from 
that  of  chlorine,  as,  instead  of  destroy- 
ing the  coloring  matter,  or  of  transform- 
ing it  so  that  it  can  be  removed  from 
the  goods  by  washing,  it  forms  a  per- 
manent   combination    which    remains 
fastened  upon  the  fibre.     The  sulphur- 
ing; is  done  either  with  gaseous  or  with 
fluid  sulphurous    acid.      In  the    first 
process,  which  is  generally  employed, 
large  chambers  which  can  be  hermeti- 
cally closed  are  used.     These  are  pro- 
vided with  valves,  opening  inward,  for 
the  admittance  of  air  during  the  time 
the  gaseous  acid  is  absorbed  by  the 
cloth.      After    the    goods    hflve    been 


stretched  over  frames  in  the  chamber, 
an  iron  pot  containing  sulphur  is  placed 
in  the  room,  which  is  then  hermetically 
closed.  The  developed  sulphurous  acid 
is  absorbed  by  the  wet  goods  and  comes 
in  contact  with  the  coloring  matter  and 
bleaches  it.  A  rarefied  space  is  formed 
by  the  absorption,  but  this  is  immedi- 
ately equalized  by  the  air  entering 
through  the  above-mentioned  valves, 
which  supply  the  oxygen  necessary 
for  the  combustion  of  the  sulphur. 
The  goods  remain  for  24  hours  ex- 
posed to  the  action  of  the  sulphur- 
ous acid,  although  sometimes  this  is 
not  sufficient.  If  this  should  be  the 
case,  a  fresh  quantity  of  sulphur  is 
placed  in  the  room  and  the  operation 
repeated. 

Forty  pieces  of  goods  from  20  to  30 
yards  long  are  arranged  together,  singed 
like  cotton  goods,  and  then  treated  as 
follows :  1.  Bring  them  3  times  into  a 
bath  composed  of  25  pounds  of  crystal- 
lized soda  and  12  pounds  of  soap  to  125 
to  150  gallons  of  water,  and  heated  to 
about  100°  F.  Add  i  to  J  of  a  pound 
of  soap  to  the  bath  every  time  after  the 
goods  nave  been  passed  through  it.  2. 
Rinse  them  twice  in  clean  water  of  the 
same  temperature.  3.  Bring  them  3 
times  into  a  similar  bath  as  No.  1,  but 
containing  no  soap.  After  having  been 
passed  through  for  the  first  time  add  k 
pound  of  fresh  soda  to  the  bath.  4.  Sul- 
phur them  for  12  hours  in  the  apparatus 
mentioned  above.  Twenty -five  pounds 
of  sulphur  are  burned  for  the  40  pieces. 
5.  Bring  them  3  times  into  a  bath  con- 
taining 30  pounds  of  soda  to  125  to  150 
gallons  of  water,  and  heated  to  120°  F. 
Add  i  pound  of  soda  to  the  bath  each 
time  after  the  goods  have  been  passed 
through  it.  6.  Second  sulphuring  like 
No.  4.  7.  Repeat  the  bath  as  in  No.  5. 

8.  Wash  them  twice  in  water  of  85°  F. 

9.  Sulphur  them  for  12  hours.   10.  Wash 
them  twice  in  lukewarm  and  once  in 
cold  water.     11.   Blue  then*  with  in- 
digo. 

These  operations  generally  suffice  for 
ordinary  woollen  goods,  but  not  if  they 
contain  much  coloring  matter,  or  if  they 
are  intended  for  fine  dyes.  All  traces 
of  fatty  matter  must  be  removed,  a^ 
they  exert  an  injurious  effect  upon  the 
dyestuffs.  In  these  cases  the  following 
process  is  employed ;  After  singeing  and 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


washing  the  goods  in  water  pass  them, 
1.  Through  an  alkaline  soap  bath  con- 
sisting of  50  pounds  of  crystallized  soda 
and  10  pounds  of  soap  to  125  to  150  gal- 
lons of  water,  and  heated  to  140°  to  150° 
F.  2.  Rinse  them  in  warm  water.  3. 
Pass  them  twice  through  a  bath  consist- 
ing of  25  pounds  of  soda  to  the  same 
quantity  of  water  as  No.  1  and  of  the 
same  temperature.  4.  Wash  them  in 
warm  water.  5.  Sulphur  them  for  10 
hours  with  25  pounds  of  sulphur  for 
250  pieces.  6.  Wash  them.  7.  Pass 
them  twice  through  a  bath  of  16£ 
pounds  of  soda  to  the  same  quantity  of 
water  as  No.  1,  but  heated  to  140°  to 
150°  F.  8.  Pass  them  twice  through  a 
bath  of  13  pounds  of  soda  to  the  same 
quantity  of  water  as  No.  1,  but  heated  i 
to  140°  to  150°  F.  9.  Wash  them  in 
warm  water.  10.  Sulphur  with  17 
pounds  of  sulphur  to  the  same  number 
of  pieces.  11.  Wash,  and,  12.  Blue 
them. 

To  Keep  Woollen  Goods  White.  The 
goods,  after  bleaching  by  sulphuring, 
are  placed  in  a  bath  of  10  gallons  of 
water,  3  pounds  of  castile  soap,  and  1 
to  li  pounds  of  spirit  of  sal  ammoniac. 
The  addition  of  sal  ammoniac  prevents 
the  goods  from  turning  yellow  when 
stored,  and  that  of  soap  from  feeling 
rough  to  the  touch. 

To  Bleach  Wool  without  Sulphur. 
The  loose  wool,  or  yarn,  is  thoroughly 
washed  with  soda  and  soap  in  the  ordi- 
nary manner.  It  is  then  brought  into 
a  cold  bath  of  2  pounds  of  hyposulphite 
of  sodium  to  11  gallons  of  water,  where 
it  remains  for  1  hour,  when  it  is  taken 
out.  6^  pounds  of  hydrochloric  acid 
are  then  added  to  the  same  bath,  the 
wool  is  replaced  in  it,  and  allowed  to 
remain  for  1  hour.  The  vessel  con- 
taining the  wool  must  be  well  covered 
during  the  last  treatment,  and  the  bath 
must  be  large  enough  to  conveniently 
handle  the  wool  in  it.  The  loose  wool, 
or  yarn,  acquires,  by  this  operation, 
a  much  better  appearance  than  that 
bleached  with  sulphur,  and  keeps  white 
for  a  longer  time. 

To  make  Wool  bleached  without  Sul- 
pJnir  beautifully  White.  Take  to  1 
part  of  spun  wool  2  of  chalk,  scrape 
this  fine  arid  stir  it  into  a  thin  paste 
with  soft  water.  The  wool  is  thoroughly 
rubbed  with  this  paste,  as  if  it  were  to 


be  washed  with  soap,  and  is  thus  left 
for  24  hours.  It  is  then  rinsed  in  soft 
water  until  all  traces  of  the  chalk 
are  removed.  By  repeating  the  oper- 
ation the  white  becomes  more  bril- 
liant. 

Bleaching  of  Silk.  Raw  silk ,  accord- 
ing to  R.  Wagner,  can  be  bleached  en- 
tirely white  without  previously  remov- 
ing the  gum  by  boiling,  and  with  but 
a  small  loss  of  weight.  This  is  done  by 
digesting  the  raw  silk  in  a  mixture  of  1 
part  of  hydrochloric  acid  and  23  of 
alcohol.  The  fluid  assumes  a  green 
color,  and  the  silk,  after  it  has  been 
washed  and  dried  will  be  perfectly 
white.  One  hundred  parts  by  weight 
of  raw  silk  give  by  this  process  97.19 
parts  by  weight  of  bleached  silk.  The 
loss  in  weight,  therefore,  amounts  to 
but  2.91  per  cent. 

Quick  Method  of  Bleaching  Flax 
Yarn,  according  to  C.  Hartmann. 
The  yarns  are  soaked  for  48  hours  in 
water  at  110  to  122°  F.,  to  dissolve  the 
dirt  accumulated  in  spinning.  The 
water  is  then  drawn  off  and  fresh  water 
poured  over  them  until  it  runs  oft'  quite 
clear.  The  yarns  are  then  dried  and 
boiled  2  to  3  hours  in  a  soda  lye  of 
2i°  to  3°  Twaddle.  Fresh  water  is 
again  poured  over  them  until  it  runs 
off  clear.  The  yarns  are  dried,  and 
again  boiled  in  equally  strong  lye,  and 
soaked  in  water.  They  are  then  dried 
and  winched  in  a  solution  of  sodium 
chloride  |°  to  1°  Twaddle  strong,  or  in 
a  solution  of  chlorine.  They  are  then 
thoroughly  washed  and  laid  upon  the 
bleaching  ground,  where  they  remain 
for  8  days,  are  then  turned  and  allowed 
to  remain  for  3  days  longer.  They  are 
then  again  boiled,  treated  as  above, 
dried,  brought  into  a  weak  chlorine 
bath,  dried,  and  placed  upon  the  bleach- 
ing ground.  If  the  yarns  are  to  be  only 
f  bleached,  they  are  placed  in  a  1° 
strong  solution  of  sulphuric  acid.  If 
they  are  to  be  bleached  entirely  white, 
they  are  boiled  a  fourth  time  in  the 
same  manner  as  above,  and,  after  hav- 
ing been  dried,  are  brought  into  a  weak 
chlorine  bath,  and  finally  in  a  sulphuric 
acid  bath  as  above. 

For  a  better  comparative  view,  Hart- 
mann recapitulates  the  process  for  en- 
tirely bleached  and  £  bleached  yarns 
as  follows : 


BLEACHING. 


37 


Entirely  Bleached. 

I  Bleached. 

Soaking  48  hours. 

Soaking  48  hours. 

Rinsing  with  water. 

Rinsing  with  water. 

Drying. 

Boiling  with  soda  4 

Drying. 
Boiling  with  soda  4 

hours. 

hours. 

Rinsing  with  water. 

Rinsing  with  water. 

Drying. 

Drying. 

Boiling  with  soda. 

foiling  with  soda. 

Rinsing  with  water. 

Rinsing  with  water. 

Drying. 
Chlorine     bath     or 

Drying. 
Chlorine     bath     or 

winching. 

winching. 

Washing. 

Washing. 

Eight  days  upon  the 
bleaching  ground. 

Eight  days  upon  the 
bleaching  ground. 

Turning    upon    the 

Turning    upon    the 

bleaching  ground. 

bleaching  ground. 

Boiling  with  soda. 

Boiling  with  soda. 

Rinsing  with  water. 

Rinsing  with  water. 

Drying. 

Drying. 

Chlorine  bath. 

Chlorine  bath. 

Washing. 

Washing. 

Four  to  6  days  upon 

Sulphuric  acid  bath. 

the  bleaching  ground. 

Drying. 

Boiling  with  soda. 

Rinsing  in  water. 

Drying. 
Chlorine  bath. 

Washing. 

Sulphuric  acid  bath 

and  washing. 

Drying. 

Harfmann  remarks  that  the  yarns 
should  be  washed  as  little  as  possible, 
or  else  they  will  lose  too  much  weight, 
which  should  never  amount  to  more 
than  18  to  '20  per  cent.  After  each  boil- 
ing, rinsing  the  yarns  in  water  is  suf- 
ficient, but  washing  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary, after  treating  them  in  the  chlorine 
bath,  and  with  sulphuric  acid. 

To  Bleach  S/toncjf's.  Beat  the  sponges 
carefully,  and  then  place  them  in  a 
mixture  of  1  part  of  hydrochloric  acid 
and  20  of  water.  They  are  then  boiled 
in  water  and  thoroughly  washed,  after 
which  they  are  placed  in  a  water  bath 
to  which  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sul- 
phuric acid  has  been  added  to  bring  it 
to  4°  Beaume.  This  bath  is  com- 
pounded with  bleaching  liquor,  until 
it  is  entirely  saturated  with  gas.  The 
sponges  remain  in  this  for  half  an  hour, 
when  they  are  taken  out,  rinsed  off  in 
soft  water,  and  passed  through  an  acid 
bath.  They  are  placed  several  times 
in  succession  in  a  bath  acidulated  with 
sulphuric  acid  to  4°  Beaume,  and  to 
which  a  sufficient  quantity  of  potassium 
hydrate  or  of  sodium  hydrate  has  been 
added  to  impregnate  it  with  gas.  The 
sponges  remain  here  for  some  time, 


when  they  are  taken  out,  rinsed  in  soft 
water,  squeezed  out  and  dried. 

To  Bleach  and  Harden  Tallow. 
Place  100  pounds  of  the  brownish  tal- 
low in  a  copper  boiler,  and  add  -i  gal- 
lon of  clean  water.  Then  melt  the  tal- 
Jow  at  a  moderate  heat,  and  add,  with 
constant  stirring,  a  mixture  of  1  pound 
of  sulphuric  acid  in  H  gallons  of  water. 
Next  add  i  pound  of  finely  powdered 
potassium  bichromate,  and  finally  1-i 
gallons  of  pure  water.  The  fire  is  now 
allowed  to  go  out,  and  the  tallow,  which 
will  be  as  clear  as  water,  and  of  slightly 
greenish  tint,  is  left  to  congeal,  when  it 
is  skimmed  from  the  dark  green  fluid 
on  the  bottom  of  the  boiler. 

To  Bleach  Bristles.  Wash  the  bris- 
tles thoroughly  in  a  solution  of  soft  soap 
in  tepid  water ;  then  rinse  them  in  cold 
water.  Now  place  them  for  2  or  3  days 
in  a  saturated  aqueous  solution  of  sul- 
phurous acid,  wash  them  in  clean  water 
and  dry  them. 

To  Bleach  Copper  Plate  Engravings, 
Woodcuts,  etc.  Place  a  quantity  of 
phosphorus  in  glass  carboy  with  a  wide 
mouth,  such  as  is  used  for  storing  sul- 
phuric acid  will  answer  the  purpose. 
Pour  into  the  carboy  sufficient  water  at 
85°  F.  to  half  cover  the  phosphorus 
fragments.  Close  the  carboy  loosely 
with  a  cork,  and  let  it  stand  for  12  or 
18  hours  in  a  moderately  warm  place. 
The  paper,  print,  etc.,  to  be  bleached, 
is  moistened  with  distilled  water,  then 
fastened  to  a  platinum  wire,  and  sus- 
pended in  the  carboy,  where  it  will  be- 
come entirely  white  in  a  short  time. 
But  as  there  will  be  some  acid  reaction 
after  the  paper  has  been  taken  from  the 
carboy,  it  must  be  rinsed  with  water 
until  the  latter  does  not  turn  blue  lit- 
mus paper  red.  The  paper  is  then 
passed  through  a  weak  solution  of  soda, 
next  through  clean  water,  and  finally 
dried  upon  a  glass  plate. 

To  Bleach  Shellac.  Rub  2  pounds  of 
chloride  of  lime  to  a  paste  with  water, 
strain  this  through  linen,  and  wash  out 
the  residue  with  2  pounds  of  water. 
A  solution  of  1  part  of  potash  in  3  of 
water  is  added  to  the  filtrate  until  no 
more  precipitate  is  formed,  when  the 
precipitate  is  filtered  off.  Generally 
4  ounces  of  potash  or  1  pound  of  the 
solution  of  potash  is  allowed  for 
pound  of  chloride  of  lime. 


38 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Two  pounds  of  the  shellac  to  be 
bleached  are  digested  for  a  few  days  in  1 
gallon  of  highly-rectified  spirit  of  wine. 
To  this  is  added,  with  constant  stirring, 
the  above  fluid,  and,  in  the  course  of 
half  an  hour,  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
hydrochloric  acid  is  added  to  produce 
an  acid  reaction. 

The  shellac  will  assume  the  appear- 
ance of  a  white,  tough  mass.  This  is 
freed  from  the  acid  by  rinsing,  and 
washed  with  boiling  water  until  this 
has  no  longer  a  milky  appearance. 
The  shellac  is  then  placed  upon  a  moist 
board,  formed  into  strips,  and  dried  in 
the  air. 

The  fluid,  which  is  first  poured  off,  is 
saturated  with  hydrate  of  lime,  and  the 
spirit  of  wine  contained  in  it  can  then 
be  recovered  by  distillation. 

To  Bleach  Straw.  There  is  no  better 
process  than  treatment  with  sulphur  in 
connection  with  very  weak  chlorine,  as 
by  this  the  straw  will  lose  nothing  of 
its  lustre  and  durability.  Bleaching 
by  natural  means  does  not  suffice,  as 
the  coloring  matter  is  not  sufficiently 
destroyed,  and,  moreover,  the  straw  will 
lose  its  durability  by  having  to  remain 
for  a  long  time  upon  the  bleaching 
ground.  Bleaching  by  chlorine  alone 
cannot  be  recommended ;  for  although 
it  exerts  a  powerful  bleaching  effect 
upon  straw,  as  it  must  be  used  very 
strong,  it  makes  the  straw  brittle  and 
destroys  its  lustre.  In  using  sulphur 
in  combination  with  chlorine,  the  straw 
is  first  soaked  for  24  hours  in  hot  water, 
and  then  boiled  for  3  hours  in  water 
containing  1  pound  of  potash  to  9  gal- 
lons of  water.  The  straw  is  then  soaked 
in  cold  water,  this  being  repeated  until 
the  water  runs  off  entirely  colorless. 
The  straw  is  now  boiled  in  a  lye  half  as 
strong  as  the  first  and  then  soaked  in 
cold  water  for  '3  days.  This  finishes 
the  cleansing  operation.  The  straw  is 
now  subjected  to  the  actual  bleaching 
process.  For  this  purpose  it  is  brought 
into  a  hermetically  closed  chamber  and 
exposed,  while  still  moist,  for  12  to  16 
hours  to  the  action  of  sulphurous  vapors 

? reduced  by  the  combustion  of  sulphur, 
fc  is  washed  in  water  and  soaked  for 
about  30  hours  in  a  very  dilute  solution 
of  chloride  of  lime,  which  should  be  as 
clear  as  water.  It  is  then  rinsed  off 
with  pure  water,  and  finally,  to  free  it 


from  the  odor  of  chlorine,  a  very  weak 
solution  of  sodium  hyposulphite  is 
poured  over  it  and  allowed  to  act  upon 
it  for  several  hours.  When  the  odor 
of  chlorine  has  disappeared  the  straw 
is  washed  with  pure  water  and 
dried. 

David's  New  Process  of  Bleaching. 
Gaseous  chlorine  is  generated  in  a  closed 
receptacle  by  one  of  the  ordinary  meth- 
ods (as  by  the  action  of  an  acid  on 
chloride  of  lime  diluted  with  water), 
and  is  conveyed  by  a  pipe  into  a  cham- 
ber containing  the  articles  to  be 
bleached.  The  sides  of  the  chamber 
are  constructed  of  a  transparent  mate- 
rial in  order  to  admit  the  entrance  of 
light,  which  assists  considerably  in  the 
process  of  decolorization.  After  some 
length  of  time,  varying  with  the  nature 
of  the  articles  to  be  bleached,  a  rapid 
current  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  obtained 
by  any  of  the  well-known  methods,  is 
sent  into  the  chamber.  The  apparatus 
in  which  the  carbonic  acid  is  generated 
communicates  with  a  vessel  containing 
liquid  ammonia,  the  fumes  of  which 
combine  with  the  carbonic  acid  and  are 
conveyed  into  the  chamber,  where  the 
two  gases  neutralize  the  hydrochloric 
acid  and  accelerate  the  decolorization 
of  the  materials  contained  therein.  The 
ammonia  should  be  contained  in  a  ves- 
sel of  such  a  shape  that  the  evaporating 
surface  of  the  liquid  can  be  augmented 
or  diminished  according  to  the  quantity 
of  chlorine  employed. 

In  the  second  process,  permanganate 
of  lime  is  obtained  by  the  action  of  per- 
oxide or  binoxide  of  manganese  on  lime 
aided  by  heat  in  the  following  manner : 
One  part  by  weight  of  peroxide  of  man- 
ganese and  3  parts  by  weight  of  quick- 
lime in  powder  are  mixed  together  and 
submitted  to  a  red  heat  for  about  3 
hours.  When  the  heat  has  been  con- 
tinued for  1  hour  a  rapid  current  of 
carbonic  acid  is  passed  through  the 
mixture  and  continued  until  the  pro- 
cess is  completed ;  the  object  of  this 
being  to  peroxidize  the  compound.  The 
permanganate  of  lime  thus  prepared  is 
placed  in  a  closed  receptacle  which 
communicates  by  a  pipe  with  the 
bleaching  chamber,  ordinary  sulphuric 
acid  is  gradually  added,  and  "ozonized 
oxygen"  is  evolved.  In  order  to  accel- 
erate the  evolution  of  this  gas  a  vegeta- 


BOILER  INCRUSTATIONS. 


ble  acid  in  quantity  equal  to  the  sul- 
phuric acid  is  added. 

lu  the  third  process  phosphorus  and 
acetic  acid  are  employed.  The  produc- 
tion of  ozone  by  means  of  phosphorus 
in  a  moist  atmosphere  is  well  known, 
but  the  quantity  thus  obtained  is  very 
small.  By  causing  air  which  has  been 
previously  forced  through  acetic  acid 
to  bubble  through  the  water  containing 
the  phosphorus,  the  quantity  of  ozone 
is  considerably  increased.  The  ozone 
is  conveyed  to  the  bleaching  chamber 
in  the  same  manner  as  before  de- 
scribed, the  air  being  forced  through 
the  liquids  by  means  of  a  fan. 

When  the  materials  are  removed 
from  the  bleaching  chamber  it  is  de- 
sirable to  expose  them  for  a  time  to  the 
action  of  the  atmosphere  in  order  to 
remove  the  odor  of  ozone.  This  pro-  j 
cess  is  adapted  to  the  bleaching  of  raw 
or  worked  materials,  especially  those 
which  from  their  shape  or  nature  can- 
not be  immersed  in  a  liquid,  and  also 
to  books,  papers,  and  engravings. 

To  Bleach  Stained  Marble,  Soap 
the  stained  marble  with  a  fine  piece  of 
linen.  Then  cover  it  with  a  cloth  and 
pour  upon  this  a  solution  of  1  ounce  of 
cream  of  tartar  in  2V  gallons  of  water. 
Repeat  the  moistening  6  to  8  times  a 
day  for  6  weeks,  and  expose  the  marble 
to  the  action  of  the  sun,  when  the 
stains  will  be  removed  and  the  marble 
become  entirely  wbite.  Cracks  in 
white  marble  are  filled  with  a  paste  of 
powdered  alabaster  with  glue  water; 
for  gray  marble  a  paste  of  powdered 
slate  and  glue  water  is  used;  for  red 
marble,  ochre,  etc. 


BOILER  INCRUSTATIONS. 

The  following  remedies  are  recom- 
mended to  remove  and  prevent  boiler 
incrustations : 

Saillard's  Receipt. 

Catechu 100  parts. 

Potash 50  " 

Soda 50  " 

Common  rosin 10  " 

Lime 20  " 

Water 200  " 

The  lime,  rosin,  soda,  and  water  are 
boileu  for  30  minutes  and  then  allowed 


to  settle.  A  decoction  of  the  catechu 
in  100  parts  of  water  is  prepared  in  an- 
other boiler,  strained,  aud  mixed  with 
the  other  solution.  The  fluid  is  then 
stored  for  future  use.  Every  6  weeks  1 
pint  of  the  liquor  for  each  horse-power 
is  introduced  into  a  boiler  by  means  of 
the  feed-pump. 

For  a  10  horse-power  boiler,  fed  with 
water  containing  calcic  sulphate,  take : 

Catechu 4  pounds. 

Dextrine 2 

Crystallized  soda 4 

Potash 1  pound. 

Cane  sugar 1 

Alum 1 

Gum  Arabic 1 

For  a  boiler  of  the  same  size,  fed  with 
water  containing  lime,  take : 

Turmeric 4  pounds. 

Dextrine 2       " 

Sodium  bicarbonate 4       " 

Potash      I 

Molasses  >• each  1  pound. 

Alum      J 

For  a  boiler  of  the  same  size,  fed  with 
water  containing  iron,  take : 

Gamboge     .  ....    4  pounds. 

Soda 4       " 

Dextrine 2 

Potash 
Sugar 
Alum 
Gi 


Dextrine      .     . 

Potash  "j 

Sugar 

Unm 

Sum  Arabic  J 


each    1  pound. 


For  a  boiler  of  the  same  size,  fed  with 
sea  water,  take : 

Catechu 4  pounds. 

Glauber's  salt 4       " 

Dextrine 4       " 

Alum 1  pound. 

Gum  Arabic 1       " 

When  one  of  the  above  preparations 
is  to  be  used  i  gallon  of  water  is  added 
to  it,  and,  in  ordinary  incrustation,  the 
boiler  is  charged  with  it  every  month; 
but,  if  the  incrustation  is  strong,  every 
2  weeks. 

For  boilers  of  30  horse-power,  fed 
with  river  water,  the  following  mixture 
is  used,  which  should  be  renewed  every 
time  the  boiler  is  emptied : 

Crystallized  soda 6  pounds. 

Dextrine 6       " 

Alum 2       " 


Potash 1  pound. 


40 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


For  the  same  sized  boiler,  fed  with  sea 
water : 

Soda 8  pounds. 

Dextrine 8       " 

Sugar 4       " 

Alum 1  pound. 

Potash 1       " 

Alfieri's  Receipt.  A  mixture  of  250 
parts  of  carbonate  of  baryta,  325  of  am- 
monium nitrate,  225  of  sodium  chloride, 
and  200  of  animal  charcoal,  prevents  in- 
crustations, and  dissolves  those  already 
formed. 

BaudeCs  Preventive  consists  of  15 
parts  of  sodium  hyposulphite,  10  of  rain 
water,  and  10  of  glycerine.  It  aug- 
ments the  solubility  of  gypsum  (calcic 
sulphate),  and  separates  the  carbonates 
and  phosphates  in  the  form  of  powder, 
and  the  other  salt  forms  a  jelly  with  the 
glycerine. 

Itogers'  Preventives.  Dr.  Joseph  G. 
Rogers  has  proposed  two  methods  for 
preventing  boiler  incrustation  :  one  con- 
sists in  introducing  into  the  boiler  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  sodium  oxalate, 
which  converts  the  scale-forming  im- 
purities of  the  feed  water  into  insoluble 
oxalates  as  soon  as  they  enter  the  boiler. 
These  oxalates  are  precipitated  as  a 
mushy  sediment,  which  has  no  tendency 
to  form  scale,  and  which  may  be  blown 
out  from  the  mud  drum  from  time  to 
time:  another  consists  in  the  use  of 
sodium  tannate,  which  is  kept  con- 
stantly present  in  the  boiler  in  solution ; 
it  decomposes  the  calcium  and  mag- 
nesium carbonates  as  they  enter,  tan- 
nates  being  precipitated  in  a  light, 
flocculent,  amorphous  form,  which 
gradually  accumulate  in  the  mud 
drum,  from  which  they  may  be  readily 
blown  out  from  time  to  time.  The  so- 
dium carbonate  formed  in  the  reaction 
remains  in  solution,  becoming  bicar- 
bonate by  appropriation  of  the  free  car- 
bonic acid  in  the  water.  This  reacts 
upon  the  calcium  sulphate,  forming 
sodium  sulphate  and  calcium  carbon- 
ate, which  latter  in  turn  is  acted  on  as 
above  by  fresh  portions  of  the  sodjum 
tannate.  The  constant  presence  of  the 
alkali  protects  the  iron  from  any  in- 
jurious action  of  the  tannic  acid'.  A 
similar  reaction  will  take  place  be- 
tween the  tannate  and  the  already 
formed  scale,  though  the  action  Avill  be 
a  gradual  one. 


Rogers'  processes  are  based  on  sound 
chemical  principles,  and  can  be  com- 
mended. (W.) 


BONE,HORN,  AND  IVORY— TO  BLEACH 
AND  DYE  THEM,  AND  MAKE  IMITA- 
TIONS AND  COMPOSITIONS. 

To  Bleach  Bone  and  Ivory.  Prepare 
a  solution  of  1  part  of  fresh  chloride  of 
lime  in  4  of  water.  Place  in  it  the  dis- 
colored articles  of  bone  or  ivory,  and 
allow  them  to  remain  for  a  few  days. 
Then  take  them  out,  wash,  and  dry 
them  in  the  open  air.  Articles  of  ivory 
must  remain  somewhat  longer  in  the 
solution. 

To  Bleach  Bones.  Place  the  bones 
in  a  mixture  of  unslacked  lime,  bran 
and  water,  and  boil  them  until  they  are 
entirely  free  from  fatty  substances,  and 
are  white. 

JJedinger's  Method  of  Bleaching 
Bones  for  Turners'  Use.  Pour  oil  of 
turpentine  over  the  bones  in  tin  boxes 
which  can  be  hermetically  closed,  let 
them  remain  for  10  hours,  remove,  and 
boil  them  for  3  hours  in  water  contain- 
ing soft  soap.  Skim  oft'  the  impurities 
floating  on  the  surface,  cool  the  hot 
water  with  cold,  and  dry  the  bones  upon 
pine  boards  in  the  open  air  protected 
from  the  sun. 

Peineman's  Process  of  Bleaching 
Ivory  turned  Yellow.  According  to  one 
receipt,  the  ivory  is  placed  in  a  satur- 
ated solution  of  alum,  and  allowed  to 
soak  in  it  for  1  hour.  It  is  then  rubbed 
with  a  woollen  cloth,  next  wrapped  in 
linen,  and  allowed  to  dry. 

The  other  process  Avhich,  according 
to  experiments  we  have  made,  is  to  be 
preferred,  is  as  follows :  Prepare  a  thin 
lime  paste,  heat  it  over  a  fire,  place  the 
ivory  in  it,  and  allow  it  to  remain  until 
it  has  become  white.  Then  take  it  out, 
dry,  and  polish. 

To  Make  Ivory  Soft  and  flexible. 
Place  the  ivory  articles  in  a  solution  of 
phosphoric  acid  of  1.1 30  specific  gravity, 
and  allow  them  to  remain  in  it  until 
they  have  assumed  a  transparent  ap- 
pearance. Then  take  them  out  of  the 
acid,  wash  them  carefully  in  water,  and 
dry  them  between  soft  linen.  They  are 
now  as  soft  as  thick  leather,  become 
hard  on  exposure  to  the  air,  but  regain 


BONE,  HORN,  IVORY,  ETC. 


41 


their  plasticity  in  warm  water.  Weaker 
phosphoric  acid  than  the  above  has  no 
effect. 

New  Process  of  Bleaching  Ivory  and 
Bones.  The  following  is  a  very  effi- 
cacious means  of  removing  the  dis- 
agreeable odor  and  fatty  emanations  of 
bones  or  ivory,  while  it  leaves  them 
beautifully  bleached.  The  articles  are 
placed  in  a  glass  vessel  with  oil  of 
turpentine,  and  exposed  to  the  sun  for 
3  or  4  days ;  a  little  longer  in  the  shade. 
The  turpentine  acts  as  an  oxidizing 
agent,  and  forms  an  acid  liquor  which 
sinks  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  and 
strongly  attacks  the  bones  if  they  are 
allowed  to  touch  it.  To  prevent  this 
they  should  rest  upon  strips  of  zinc,  so 
as  to  be  a  fraction  of  an  inch  above  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel.  The  action  of  the 
turpentine  is  not  confined  to  bones  and 
ivorv,  but  extends  to  wood  of  various 
kinds,  especially  beech,  maple,  elm, 
and  cork. 

Dyeing  of  Bone  and  Ivory.  Bone 
and  ivory  are  dyed  either  without  any 
preliminary  preparation,  or  are  first 
treated  for  3  to  4  days  with  a  mixture 
of  sulphuric  acid  and  water,  with  an 
addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  tartaric 
acid,  until  they  are  rough  and  can  be 
pressed  with  the  fingers. 

The  articles  may  also  be  placed  in 
boiling  vinegar  instead  of  the  diluted 
mineral  acid.  After  the  ivory  has  been 
softened  in  this  manner  it  can  be  dyed 
by  placing  it  in  the  alcoholic  solution 
of  any  coloring  substance,  and  then 
worked  into  the  article  for  which  it  is 
intended.  The  original  hardness  is  re- 
stored by  wrapping  it  in  a  sheet  of 
white  paper  covered  with  dry,  decrep- 
itated common  salt,  and  allowed  to 
remain  for  24  hours. 

If  alcoholic  solutions  are  not  used, 
the  ivory  must  first  be  placed  in  a  mor- 
dant. This,  for  most  colors,  consists  of 
tin  salt  or  a  solution  of  stannous  sul- 

Ehide,  obtained  from  4  parts  of  tin,  6  of 
ydrochloric  acid,  8  of  sulphuric  acid, 
and  6  of  water. 

Receipts  for  Different  Colors. 
Yellow.  I.  Prepare  a  decoction  of 
rasped  fustic  in  water,  place  the  ivory 
in  a  solution  of  tin  in  aqua  regia,  and 
then  in  the  decoction  of  fustic,  which 
should  be  previously  strained. 


II.  An  orange  color  is  obtained  by 
adding  shavings  of  Brazil  wood. 

III.  Or,  place  the  ivory  in  a  concen- 
trated solution,  of  potassium  chromate 
and  then  in  a  boiling  hot  solution  of 
sugar  of  lead  in  water. 

IV.  Mordant  the  ivory  in  a  solution 
of  stannous  sulphide  or  of  alum  and 
then  place  it  in  a  hot  decoction  of  weld. 

V.  Place  the  ivory  in  a  solution  of 
yellow   orpiment    saturated   with   am- 
monia. 

Jit ne.  I.  Prepare  a  highly  diluted 
solution  of  sulphindigotic  acid,  which 
must  be  partly  saturated  with  potash. 
Allow  the  ivory  to  remain  in  this  for  a 
longer  or  shorter  time,  according  to  the 
intensity  of  the  color  desired. 

II.  Dissolved  precipitated  indigo 
(blue  carmine)  may  also  be  used  for 
dyeing  ivory  blue.  Hydrochloric  acid 
should  be  used  as  a  mordant  instead  of 
nitric  acid,  as  the  latter  colors  the  car- 
tilage yellow  and  therefore  produces  a 
green  color  with  the  indigo. 

Green..  I.  Dip  the  articles  already 
dyed  blue  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  solu- 
tion of  tin  in  aqua  regia,  and  finish 
dyeing  in  a  hot  decoction  of  fustic  in 
water. 

II.  Dip  tbe  ivory  in  a  solution  of 
verdigris  in  vinegar. 

III.  Place  the  ivory  for  a  few  hours 
in  a  partly  saturated  solution  of  potas- 
sium chromate,  and  expose  it  for  some 
time  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun.     It 
will  acquire  a  dark  bhiish-gveen  color. 

IV.  It  has  been    recommended    to 
treat  the  articles  to  be  dyed  green,  first 
with  nitric  acid,  then  with  a  solution 
of  yellow  prussiate  of  potash  (potassium 
ferrocyanide)    and  an    iron  salt,   and 
finally  with  a  solution  of  picric  acid. 

Red.  I.  Place  the  articles  for  a  few 
minutes  in  a  solution  of  tin  in  aqua, 
regia  and  then  in  a  hot  decoction  of 
Brazil  wood,  cochineal,  etcv  which 
should  first  be  strained. 

II.  Boil  the  ivory  with  f  pound  of 
Brazil  wood  and  1  gallon  of  water,  then 
add  i  pound  of  alum,  and  boil  once 
more. 

III.  Dip  the  ivory  in  a  weak  solution 
of  aqua  fortis  and  then  place  it  in  a 
solution  of  carmine. 

IV.  A  more  beautiful  red  is  obtained 
by  finishing  the  dyeing  in  a  decoction 
of  cochineal,  or  dissolving  the  carmiue 


42 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


in  ammonia.  When  cochineal  is  used 
add  alum  and  a  small  quantity  of  tar- 
taric  acid  to  the  bath. 

Crimson,  a.  Preparation  of  the  Mor- 
dant. Place  the  prepared  and  polished 
ivory  in  a  solution  of  i  pound  of  chlo- 
ride of  zinc  in  i  pint  of  rain  or  distilled 
water ;  allow  it  to  remain  1  hour,  though 
a  longer  time  does  no  harm. 

b.  Preparation  of  the  Dye.     Boil  for 

5  minutes  in  a  porcelain  saucer  1  ounce 
of  cochineal  and  2  pinches  of  purified 
tartar  in  1  pint  of  water.     Then, 

I.  Place  the  mordanted  ivory  in  the 
fluid  and  boil  until  it  has  acquired  a 
beautiful  crimson  color.     If  a  darker 
tint  is  desired,  repeat  the  process,  rinse 
the  ivory  off  with  clean  water,  dry,  and 
lacquer  it  with  bookbinders'  lacquer. 

II.  A  carmine  color  is  also  produced 
by  rubbing  2  drachms  of  carmine  with 

6  drachms  of  crystallized  soda  and  com- 
pounding them  with  li  pints  of  water. 
To  the  solution  add  acetic  acid  slightly 
in  excess.     Boil  the  ivory  in  this  bath 
until  it  has  acquired  the  desired  color. 

III.  The  articles  are  first  dyed  in  a 
decoction  of  weld  and  then  in  a  solu- 
tion of  carmine.     To  prepare  the  latter, 
dissolve  a  pinch  (as  much  as  will  lay 
upon  the  point  of  a  knife)  of  carmine 
in  4i  fluid  ounces  of  spirit  of  sal  am- 
moniac, dilute  the  solution  with  1  pint 
of N  water  and   heat  the  bath.      Then 
place  the  articles  in  it  and  allow  them 
to  remain  until  they  are  sufficiently 
dyed.     A  still  more  brilliant  color  will 
be  produced  by  mordanting  the  articles 
with  a  solution  of  phosphate  of  tin  in- 
stead of  with  stannous  sulphide. 

Cherry-Red.  This  is  obtained  by 
placing  the  articles  which  have  been 
dyed  crimson  in  an  aqueous  solution  of 
potash. 

Purple.  Boil  the  ivory  in  a  decoction 
of  logwood,  then  add  for  every  pint  of 
the  decoction  i  ounce  of  alum  and  boil 
the  articles  in  this. 

Violet.  I.  The  articles  are  mordanted 
with  the  solution  of  tin,  as  given  under 
carmine,  and  then  brought  into  a  de- 
coction of  logwood  in  water. 

II.  Dye  the  ivory  red  and  then  dip 
for  a  moment  in  a  solution  of  indigo. 

Lilac  is  obtained  by  placing  the  mor- 
danted ivory  in  a  nearly  exhausted  bath 
of  logwood. 

I,  Place  the  ivory  for  some 


time  in  a  diluted  solution  of  nitrate  of 
silver  and  then  expose  it  to  the  sun. 
But  as  the  color  has  frequently  a  green- 
ish shade  it  will  be  necessary  to  repeat 
the  operation  several  times  to  deepen 
the  black. 

II.  A  beautiful   black  color  is  ob- 
tained by  boiling  the  ivory  in  a  strained 
decoction  of  rasped  logwood,  then  tak- 
ing it  out  and  placing  it  in  a  solution 
of  sulphate  or  acetate  of  iron. 

III.  Boil  the  articles  first  in  a  de- 
coction of  gall-nuts  and  logwood  and 
then  in  a  solution  of  sulphate  or  acetate 
of  iron.     If,  as  for  instance  in  billiard 
balls,  white  stripes  are  desired  on  a 
black  ground,  lay  a  ribbon  saturated 
with  wax  around  the  ball  and  wrap 
some  cord  around  it.     The  places  thus 
covered  will  remain  white  in  dyeing. 
We  will  remark  here  that  all  colors 
adhere  better  to  unpolished    than  to 
polished  ivory,  and  it  is  therefore  bet- 
ter to  polish  the  articles  after  they  have 
been  dyed.     This  is  done  by  rubbing 
with  soap  and  Vienna  lime  with  the 
naked   hand.     In  dyeing  the  boiling 
should  not  be  continued  too  long  or  else 
the  ivory  will  become  full  of  cracks, 
and  the  pieces  should  be  cooled   off 
quickly  by  being  placed  in  cold  water 
when  taken  out  of  the  dye. 

To  Produce  Black  and  Colored 
Drawings  upon  Ivory.  Rub  1  ounce 
of  tears  or  drops  of  mastic  to  a  fine 
powder  and  gradually  pour  into  it  the 
same  quantity  of  melted  wax,  to  which 
add  9  drachms  of  powdered  asphaltum, 
and  stir  them  into  a  homogeneous  mass 
which  should  be  placed  in  tepid  water, 
and,  after  cooling,  rolled  into  balls 
about  1  inch  in  diameter,  and  when 
entirely  cold  wrapped  in  taffeta.  AVhite 
wax  is  cheaper  and  can  be  substituted 
for  mastic  by  using  the  following  pro- 
portions: 2£  ounces  of  asphaltum,  1 
ounce  of  rosin,  and  9  drachms  of  wax. 
The  warmed  and  polished  surface  of 
the  ivory  is  covered  with  this  and  the 
drawing  scratched  into  the  ivory  sur- 
face. Concentrated  sulphuric  acid  is 
poured  over  the  wax  enamel  and  forms 
a  black  deposit  upon  the  surface  of  the 
ivory  exposed  by  the  etching.  Warm- 
ing the  ivory  or  acid  facilitates  the 
operation.  Immersion  in  a  solution  of 
nitrate  of  silver,  and>  subsequent  ex- 
posure to  the  sun,  gives  also  a  very 


BONE,  HORN,  IVORY,  ETC. 


durable  black  etching.  Solution  of 
gold  gives  purple.  The  etching  ground 
is  removed  with  oil  of  turpentine. 

Artificial  Ivory.  I.  Comminute  the 
waste  of  ivory,  bones,  horn,  etc.,  by 
rasping,  and  immerse  the  shavings  in  a 
somewhat  diluted  solution  of  a  mineral 
or  vegetable  acid.  The  maceration  of 
the 'material  may  be  accelerated  by 
heating  in  a  water  bath  to  95°  or  100° 
F.  Strain  and  compound  the  shavings 
with  |  of  their  volume  of  ivory  glue, 
and  free  them  from  excessive  moisture 
by  means  of  an  air-pump.  The  mass  is 
then  mixed  with  a  solution  of  copal  in 
alcohol  and  poured  into  sulphur  moulds, 
where  it  soon  becomes  hard.  This  arti- 
ficial ivory  has  the  appearance  of  genu- 
ine ;  thin  plates  of  it  are  as  translucent 
and  can  be  dyed  in  the  same  manner. 

Artificial  Ivory  for  Photographic 
Purposes.  Allow  glue  or  gelatine  to 
remain  in  a  bath  of  acetate  or  sulphate 
of  alumina  until  it  combines  with  the 
alumina.  The  mass  is  dried  until  it 
becomes  hard  and  is  polished  in  the 
same  manner  as  genuine  ivory.  A 
mixture  of  equal  parts  of  bone  dust, 
glue,  and  albumen,  brought  into  a 
suitable  form  by  rolling  and  pressing, 
is  also  used  as  a  substitute  for  ivory.* 

New  Artificial  Ivory.  Mix  10  parts 
by  weight  of  white  shellac,  8  of  ivory 
dust,  4£  of  acetate  of  lead,  and  5  of 
camphor.  Heat  the  mixture,  dry,  pow- 
der, and  press  it. 

To  Bleach  Ivory  Articles  fastened 
upon  Leather,  etc.  Add  hydrochloric 
acid  to  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime, 
apply  the  mixture  to  the  ivory  by 
means  of  a  brush,  and  then  expose  it  to 
the  action  of  the  sun.  To  prevent  the 
leather,  etc.,  from  being  attacked  by  the 
bleaching  agent,  it  is  best  to  cut  the 
pattern  of  the  ivory  ornament  out  of 
strong  paper,  lay  this  over  the  leather, 
and  if  necessary  fill  up  the  joint  with 
wax.  When  the  ornament  is  bleached, 
wash  off  the  particles  of  lime  with  a 
brush  and  water  and  polish  with  chalk. 
For  ornaments  of  horn  the  bleaching 
agent  must  be  applied  several  times; 
the  acid  used  may  also  be  more  con- 
centrated, and  a  paste  consisting  of  1 
part  of  water  and  1  of  chloride  of  lime 


*  For   this   purpose    nothing  equals    cellu- 
loid.    (W.) 


may  be  employed  instead  of  the  solu- 
tion of  chloride  of  lime. 

Artificial  Ivory.  Two  pounds  of  pure 
India  rubber  are  dissolved  in  32  pounds 
of  chloroform  and  the  solution  saturated 
with  purified  ammoniacal  gas.  The 
chloroform  is  then  distilled  off.  The 
residue  is  mixed  with  pulverized  phos- 
phate of  lime  or  carbonate  of  zinc, 
pressed  into  moulds,  and  cooled.  When 
the  phosphate  of  lime  is  used  the  result- 
ing compound  partakes  in  a  great  de- 
gree of  the  nature  and  composition  of 
genuine  ivory. 

Compound  for  Buttons,  Dice,  Dpm- 
inos,  etc.  The  powder  or  other  filings 
of  soapstone  (steatite),  obtained  in  the 
manufacture  of  gas  burners,  is  saturated 
with  water-glass,  dried,  and  ground. 
Buttons  and  similar  articles  are  pressed 
from  this  powder,  burned  in  ovens, 
dipped  again  in  water-glass,  and  once 
more  burned.  They  are  then  placed  in 
a  tumbling  box  with  some  water  and 
polished  by  tumbling,  dried,  and  again 
polished  in  a  similar  box  with  soap- 
stone  powder.  Dominos  and  dice  are 
pressed  in  a  similar  manner  in  dies  of 
brass  or  steel  and  then  polished. 

A  New  Method  of  Treating  Horn. 
By  this  process  horn  is  converted  into 
a  substance  resembling  whalebone.  It 
consists  in  first  cutting  the  horn  into 
strips,  then  softening  and  pressing  flat, 
and  next  boiling  in  a  closed  boiler  in  a 
decoction  of  sage  leaves  to  which  has 
been  added  a  little  potash.  Horn,  so 
treated  can  be  rolled  into  long  strips  by 
passing  through  rollers,  and  the  ends 
of  the  strips  can  be  joined  together  by 
the  pressure  of  the.  rollers;  or  large 
sheets  may  be  made  by  joining  the 
strips  at  the  sides,  the  rolling  firmly  unit- 
ing the  edges  so  as  to  form  one  piece. 

To  Dye  Morn  so  as  to  Resemble  Tor- 
toise Shell.  I.  Make  a  dough  of  2  parts 
of  unslacked  lime,  and  1  of  litharge,  by 
adding  a  sufficient  quantity  of  soap 
boiler's  lye.  Cover  with  this  all  parts 
of  the  horn  which  are  to  be  dyed.  By 
placing  a  brass  plate  under  the  horn  so 
treated,  the  imitation  will  be  still  more 
perfect. 

II.  To  produce  semi-transparent 
spaces  upon  horn,  mix  with  the  above 
dough  a  substance,  for  instance  chalk 
or  fine  sand,  which  will  decrease  the 
caustic  power  of  the  dough.  This  treat* 


44 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


merit  produces  red  stains  upon  the  sur- 
face of  the  horn,  which  enhances  the 
beauty  of  the  article,  and  its  resemblance 
to  genuine  tortoise-shell. 

III.  Mix  orpiment  with  filtered  lime- 
water,  and  apply  the  solution  with  a 
brush.    Repeat  the  application  if  neces- 
sary. 

IV.  Mix  1  ounce  of  litharge  and  9 
drachms  of  uuslacked  lime  to  a  paste 
with    a   sufficient    quantity   of  wine. 
This  composition  is  applied  to  the  horn, 
and  removed  in  3  or  4  hours. 

V.  By  using  a  solution  of  gold  for 
dyeing  the  horn,  red  stains  are  produced 
upon  it. 

VI.  A  solution  of  silver  in  nitric  acid 
dyes  horn  black. 

VII.  A  brown  color  is  obtained-  by 
brushing  the  horn  over  with  a  solution 
of  nitrate  of  mercury. 

Buttons  from  Waste  of  Horn.  The 
waste  is  pulverized  by  cylindrical 
graters,  and  the  powder  brought  into 
cylindrical  moulds,  and  subjected  to 
high  pressure,  the  temperature  being  in- 
creased at  the  same  time.  The  cylin- 
ders of  horn  thus  obtained,  as  soon  as 
they  come  from  the  moulds,  and  while 
still  hot,  are  cut  into  disks  of  the  de- 
sired thickness. 


BRONZING  AND  COLORING  OF 
METALS. 

Green  Bronze  for  Brass.  No.  1  .  Mix 
80  parts  of  strong  vinegar,  1  of  min- 
eral green,  1  of  red  umber,  1  of  sal-am- 
moniac, 1  of  gtim  Arabic,  and  1  of  green 
vitriol,  and  add  4  of  Avignon  berries 
(fruit  of  Rhanmus  infectorius).  Boil 
the  mixture,  and  strain  when  cold. 
The  articles  to  be  bronzed  should  be 
cleansed  with  weak  aquafortis,  then 
rinsed,  and  the  fluid  applied  with  a 
brush.  Should  the  color  not  be  dark 
enough,  heat  the  article  until  it  cannot 
be  held  in  the  hand,  and  then  give  a 
coat  of  spirit  of  wine  mixed  with  a  little 
lamp-black.  Finally  apply  a  coat  of 
spirit  varnish. 

No.  2.  Add  to  a  solution  of  8\  drachms 
of  copper  in  1  ounce  of  strong  nitric 
acid  10J  fluid  ounces  of  vinegar,  3i 
drachms  of  sal-ammoniac,  and  6J 
drachms  of  aqua-ammonia.  Put  the 
liquid  in  a  loosely  corked  bottle,  and 
allow  it  to  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  a 


few  days,  when  it  may  be  used.  After 
applying  it  to  the  articles,  dry  them, 
by  exposure  to  heat,  and,  when  dry,  ap- 
ply a  coat  of  linseed  oil  varnish,  which 
is  also  dried  by  heat. 

Chinese  "Bronze.  Small  articles  bron- 
zed by  this  process  possess  a  peculiar 
beauty,  and  lose  none  of  their  lustre, 
even  when  exposed  to  atmospheric  in- 
fluences and  rain. 

Powder  and  mix  thoroughly  2  parts 
of  crystallized  verdigris,  2  of  cinnabar, 

2  of  sal-ammoniac,  2  of  bills  and  livers 
of  ducks,  and  5  of  alum.    Moisten  the 
mixture  with  water  or  spirit  of  wine, 
and  rub  it  into  a  paste.    Cleanse  the 
article  to  be  bronzed  thoroughly,  and 
polish  it  with  ashes  and  vinegar.    Then 
apply  the  paste  with  a  brush.    Heat 
the  article  over  a  coal  fire,  and  wash 
the  coating  off'.    Repeat  this  operation 
until  the  desired   brown  color  is  ob- 
tained.    By  adding  blue  vitriol  to  the 
mixture,  a  chestnut  brown  color  is  pro- 
duced, while  an  addition  of  borax  gives 
a  yellowish  shade. 

Bronzing  Process  used  in  the  Paris 
Mint.  Powder  and  mix  1  pound  each 
of  verdigris  and  sal-ammoniac. 

Take  a  quantity  of  this  mixture,  as 
large  as  a  hen's  egg,  and  mix  into  a 
dough  with  vinegar.  Place  this  in  a 
copper  pan  (not  tinned),  boil  in  about 
5  pints  of  water  for  20  minutes,  and  then 
pour  off  the  water. 

For  bronzing,  pour  part  of  this  fluid 
into  a  copper  pan,  place  the  medals  sepa- 
rately in  it  upon  pieces  of  wood  or  glass, 
so  that  they  do  not  touch  each  other,  or 
come  in  contact  with  the  copper  pan, 
and  then  boil  them  in  the  liquid  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour. 

Oxidized  Silver.  (Argent  oxyde.) 
Place  the  silver,  or  plated,  articles  in  u 
solution  of  liver  of  sulphur  diluted  with 
spirit  of  sal-ammoniac.  They  are  then 
taken  out,  washed,  dried,  and  polished. 

The  above  process  produces  a  blue 
black  tint,  while  a  solution  of  equal 
quantities  of  sal-ammoniac  and  blue 
vitriol  in  vinegar  gives  a  brown  shade. 

Antique  Green.  This  can  be  imitated 
upon  new  articles  by  the  following  pro- 
cess: Dissolve  1  part  of  sal-ammoniac, 

3  of  powdered  tartar,  and  3  of  common 
salt  in  12  of  boiling  water.     Tl-en  add 
8  parts  of  a  solution  of  cuprie  nitrate, 
and  coat  the  articles  with  the  l»«|uicU 


B110N2ING  AND  COLORING  OF  METALS. 


45 


Fire-proof  Bronze  npon  Copper  and 
Brass.  Dissolve  1  drachm  of  crystal- 
lized verdigris  and  a  like  quantity  of 
finely-powdered  sal-ammoniac  in  14 
ounces  of  rain-water.  Cover  the  vessel 
containing  the  solution,  and  allow  it  to 
stand  quietly  for  3  to  4  hours,  and  then 
add  li  pints  of  water. 

In  bronzing,  hold  the  copper  or  brass 
article  over  a  coal  fire  and  heat  to  a 
uniform  heat  and  color.  Then  brush 
it  over  with  the  above  mixture  and  dry 
carefully.  In  case  the  article  is  tinned 
it  must  not  be  heated  enough  to  melt 
the  tin.  By  thus  heating  copper  5  or  6 
times  it  acquires  a  brassy  color,  and 
after  6"  to  10  applications  a  beautiful 
yellow  tint.  If  it  is  desired  to  give  a 
copper  article  a  color  shading  from  yel- 
low into  brown,  it  must  be  very  "hot 
when  the  mixture  is  applied  ;  for' light 
brown  the  operation  must  be  repeated 
20  to  25  times.  When  the  copper  has 
acquired  the  desired  color  place  it  at 
once  into  clean  water,  but  do  not  cleanse 
or  dry  it  immediately  after  taking  it 
out.  In  fact  the  greatest  care  is  here 
required.  It  is  best  to  dry  the  article 
over  a  moderate  coal  fire,  when  the 
bronze  will  become  durable  and  fire- 
proof. 

Commercial  Bronzes.  The  colors  are 
prepared  by  beating  bronze  to  thin 
leaves  similar  to  those  of  gold.  They 
are  then  rubbed  upon  a  stone  with  a 
pestle,  an  inspissating  agent  being 
added  during  the  process. 

Samples  analyzed  by  Koenig  con- 
tained : 


COLORS. 

PARTS. 

i 

a 

a 

s 

| 

B 

H 

Pule  yellow     . 
Bright  yellow 
Orange  . 
Green     .     .     . 
Copper  red 
Reddish  yellow 
Violet    .     .     . 
White    .... 

82.33 
84.5(i 
98.93 
84.32 
99.90 
90.00 
8.22 

1(1.69 
1530 
0.73 
15.02 

9.f>6 
0.50 
2.39 

0.16 
0.07 
0.08 
0  03 
trace. 
0.20 
0.3'  i 
0.5G 

trace. 

trace. 
9G.46 

The  permanent  tone  is  produced  by 
heating.  All  bronzes  contain  a  small 
percentage  of  fat,  the  English  more 
than  the  German.  The  object  of  the 


fat  is  to  obtain  a  uniformly  low  tem- 
perature during  the  superficial  oxida- 
tion of  the  bronzes.  One-half  per  cent, 
of  wax  or  paraftine  is,  for  this  reason, 
frequently  added  to  bronzes. 

Bmnzc  for  Piasters/*  Paris  Figures. 
The  mass  used  in  France  for  this  pur- 
pose is  prepared  as  follows :  Linseed  oil 
is  boiled  to  a  soap  with  soda  lye,  com- 
mon salt  being  added  until  the  soap 
separates.  This  soap  is  then  dissolved 
in  rain-water  and  compounded  with  a 
solution  of  4  parts  of  blue  and  1  of  green 
vitriol  until  a  precipitate  is  no  longer 
formed.  The  soap  is  washed  out  and 
used  for  preparing  the  antique  green  in 
connection  with  a  varnish  prepared 
from  12J  ounces  of  litharge  and  3£ 
pounds  of  linseed  oil  and  wax.  Now 
melt  together  1  pound  of  varnish,  8J 
ounces  of  bronze  soap,  and  5k  ounces 
of  white  wax.  Apply  this  to  the  fig- 
ure, previously  heated  to  190°  F.,  by 
means  of  a  brush.  If  necessary  place 
the  figure  in  a  heated  box  until  it  is 
thoroughly  permeated  with  the  color. 
The  raised  parts  are  rubbed  with  bronze 
powder. 

Bronze  Powders.  Melt  together  in  a 
crucible  over  a  bright  fire  equal  parts 
of  sulphur  and  the  white  oxide  of  tin. 
Stir  them  continually  with  a  glass  rod 
until  they  acquire  the  appearance  of  a 
yellow  flaky  powder.  An  iron  rod 
must  not  be  used  in  stirring  any  mix- 
ture of  sulphur  when  melted,  as  the 
sulphur  and  iron  will  unite. 

Another  way  to  prepare  it  is  to  take 
equal  parts  of  mercury,  tin,  sulphur, 
and  sal-ammoniac.  First  melt  the  tin, 
then  pour  the  quicksilver  into  it.  When 
the  amalgam  thus  formed  has  become 
cold  rub  it  together  with  the  sulphur 
and  sal-ammoniac.  Place  the  mixture 
in  a  crucible  and  heat  until  the  powder 
in  the  crucible  becomes  gold  colored 
and  fumes  of  mercury  cease  to  arise. 

Copper-colored  Bronze  Powder.  This 
is  prepared  by  dissolving  copper  in 
aquafortis  until  it  is  saturated  and 
then  placing  in  the  solution  some 
small  pieces  of  iron,  when  the  copper 
will  be  precipitated  in  a  metallic  state. 
The  fluid  is  then  poured  off  and  the 
impalpable  powder  carefully  washed, 
dried,  and  put  away  for  use. 

Moire  Metallique.  Cleanse  sheet  iroK 
with  diluted  sulphuric  acid,  riase  In 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


water,  and  dip  it  several  times  in  melted 
tin,  covered  with  melted  tallow.  Now 
heat  the  iron  and  cool  it  off  quickly  in 
water,  and  pour  over  it  a  mixture  of  1  j 
part  of  nitric  acid,  2  of  hydrochloric 
acid,  and  3  of  water.  Then  cleanse  it 
with  water,  dry,  and  coat  it  with  lac- 
quer. The  tinned  sheet  iron  prepared 
in  this  manner  has  the  appearance  of 
mother  of  pearl.  [The  surface  of  com- 
mercial tin  plate  may  be  given  this 
spangled  appearance  by  the  use  of  the 
same  acid  liquor.  The  acid  may  be 
applied  with  the  end  of  a  sponge  or 
pad  of  tow,  and  followed  always  by  a 
thorough  rinsing  in  water.  The  span- 
gled appearance  is  produced  by  the 
solution  of  the  smooth  surface  of  the 
tin  and  the  exposure  of  the  crystalline 
structure  of  the  underlying  metal.  The 
beauty  of  the  moire  may  be  enhanced 
by  covering  the  surface  with  transparent 
colored  varnish.  W.] 

Black  Bronze  for  Brass  (R.Wagner). 
Brush  the  brass  with  a  diluted  solution 
of  nitrate  of  mercury  and  then  several 
times  with  a  solution  of  liver  of  sulphur. 

Walker's  Chemical  Bronze.  Boil  1 
ounce  of  ammonium  carbonate  and  a 
like  quantity  of  blue  vitriol  in  li  pints 
of  vinegar  until  the  latter  is  nearly 
evaporated.  Then  add  li  pints  of  vin- 
egar in  which  has  been  dissolved  i 
drachm  of  oxalic  acid  and  a  like  quan- 
tity of  sal-ammoniac.  Place  the  mix- 
ture over  the  fire  until  it  commences  to 
boil,  then  allow  it  to  cool,  filter,  and 
put  by  in  well-closed  bottles. 

If  a  medal,  etc.,  is  to  be  bronzed,  it 
is  first  thoroughly  cleansed,  then  heated, 
and  the  liquid  applied  by  means  of  a 
badger's  hair  brush.  In  a  short  time 
boiling  water  is  poured  over  the  medal, 
and,  when  dry,  it  is  rubbed  with  a  cot- 
ton rag  dipped  in  oil  and  then  with  dry 
cotton. 

Bine  Bronze.  Prepare  a  sand  bath 
as  large  as  the  article  to  be  bronzed. 
Cleanse  the  metal  from  all  grease  by 
dipping  in  boiling  potash  lye,  and  treat 
it  with  white  wine  vinegar.  Wipe  and 
dry  the  surface  thoroughly  and  rub  it 
with  a  linen  rag  moistened  with  hydro- 
chloric acid.  Allow  the  coating  to 
dry  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  and  then 
heat  the  article  on  the  sand  bath  until 
it  has  assumed  the  desired  color,  when 
it  should  be  removed. 


Brown  Bronze.  Observe  the  same 
process  as  in  the  foregoing.  The  blue 
bronze  is  finally  rubbed  over  with  a 
linen  rag  saturated  with  olive  oil,  which 
will  change  the  blue  color  into  brown. 

Gold  Bronze  of  Great  Lustre  on 
Iron.  Dissolve  3  ounces  of  finely- 
powdered  shellac  in  If  pints  of  spirit 
of  wine.  Filter  the  varnish  through 
linen  and  rub  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
Dutch  gold  with  the  filtrate  to  give  a 
lustrous  color  to  it. 

The  iron,  previously  polished  and 
heated,  is  brushed  over  with  vinegar 
and  the  color  applied  with  a  brush. 
When  dry  the  article  may  be  coated 
with  copal  lacquer  to  which  some  am- 
ber lacquer  has  been  added. 

Steel-blue  on  Brass.  Dissolve  1£ 
drachms  of  antimony  sulphide  and  2 
ounces  of  calcined  soda  in  f  pint  of 
water.  Add  2J  drachms  of  kermes, 
filter,  and  mix  this  solution  with  an- 
other of  2f  drachms  of  tartar,  5i 
drachms  of  sodium  hyposulphite,  and 
S  pint  of  water.  Polished  sheet  brass 
placed  in  the  warm  mixture  assumes  a 
beautiful  steel-blue. 

Black  on  Brass.  Dissolve,  with  con- 
stant stirring,  1  ounce  of  copper  carbon- 
ate in  8J  fluid  ounces  of  spirit  of  sal- 
ammoniac  and  add  1  pint  of  water  to 
the  solution.  Suspend  the  articles  by 
brass  or  copper  wires  in  the  solution  for 
a  short  time.  It  is  recommended  not 
to  polish  the  articles  with  very  fine 
emery  paper,  as  the  coating  adheres 
much  better  if  coarser  paper  has  been 
used.  The  coating  is  very  durable  in 
the  open  air. 

Red  Copper-bronze  on  WJiite  Sheet 
Tin  and  Tinned  Articles.  Dissolve  9 
drachms  of  copper  sulphate  in  rain 
water  until  this  is  saturated ;  then  add 
40  to  80  drops  of  sulphuric  acid  and 
brush  the  tin,  previously  cleansed  with 
onion  juice,  with  the  fluid.  When  dry 
rub  the  article  with  chalk  and  rinse 
with  water. 

To  Give  Copper  a  Durable  Lustre. 
Place  the  copper  articles  in  a  boiling 
solution  of  tartar  and  water  for  15  min- 
utes. Remove,  rinse  off  with  cold  water, 
and  dry. 

New  Method  of  Coloring  Metals. 
Metals  may  be  colored  quickly  and 
cheaply  by  forming  on  their  surface  a 
coating  of  a  thin  film  of  a  sulphide. 


BRONZING  AND  COLORING  OF  METALS. 


47 


By  an  immersion  of  5  minutes  brass  ar- 
ticles may  be  coated  with  colors  varying 
from  gold  to  copper-red,  then  to  car- 
mine, dark  red,  and  from  light  blue 
to  a  blue-white,  and  at  last  a  red- 
dish-white, according  to  the  thick- 
ness of  the  coat,  which  depends  on  the 
length  of  time  the  metal  remains  in  the 
solution  "used.  The  colors  possess  a 
very  good  lustre,  and  if  the  articles  to 
be  colored  have  been  previously  well 
cleansed  by  means  of  acids  and  alkalies, 
they  adhere  so  firmly  that  they  may  be 
operated  upon  by  the  burnisher.  To 
prepare  the  solutions  dissolve  li  ounces 
of  sodium  hyposulphite  in  1  pint  of 
water  and  H  ounces  of  acetate  of  lead 
previously  dissolved  in  1  pint  of  water. 
When  this  clear  solution  is  heated  to 
about  190°  to  200°  F.  it  decomposes 
slowly  and  precipitates  sulphide  of  lead 
in  brown  flakes.  If  metal  is  present,  a 
part  of  the  sulphide  of  lead  is  deposited 
thereon,  and,  according  to  the  thick- 
ness of  the  deposit,  the  above  colors  are 
produced.  To  produce  an  even  color- 
ing the  article  must  be  evenly  heated. 


Iron  treated  with  this  solution  takes  a 
steel-blue  color,  zinc  a  brown  color. 
In  the  case  of  copper  objects  the  first 
gold  color  does  not  appear. 

If,  instead  of  the  acetate  of  lead,  an 
equal  weight  of  sulphuric  acid  is  added 
to  the  sodium  hyposulphite,  and  the 
process  carried  on  as  before,  the  brass 
becomes  coated,  first,  with  a  very  beau- 
tiful red,  which  is  followed  by  a  green, 
and  changes  finally  to  a  splendid 
brown,  with  green  and  red  iridescence. 
This  last  is  a  very  durable  coating  and 
may  be  especially  recommended. 

[It  will  be  found  very  difficult  to  ob- 
tain by  this  process  the'precise  shade  of 
color  desired,  unless  the  operator  has 
had  much  experience  in  its  use.  The 
thorough  cleansing  of  the  articles  from 
grease  by  immersion  in  boiling  potash 
lye  and  rinsing  is  absolutely  necessary 
to  success.  W.] 

Graham's  Bronzing  Liquids.  These 
are  used  by  simple  immersions  and 
have  a  wide  range  of  application,  as 
will  appear  from  the  three  following 
tables : 


I.  FOR  BRASS  (BY  SIMPLE  IMMERSION). 


j 

)  of  Iron. 

I'UO. 

.,0  ,,puoj 

of  Copper. 

phide  of 
?enic. 

c 
.=  - 

u 

i  solution. 

II 

vanidc  of 
11  soliilion. 

"o 

11 

F-| 

Iphito  of 

.da. 

c  Acid. 

1 

!* 

I 

r 

"3 

l< 

I* 

a«H 

1 

II 

|| 

£   £ 

"^•pH 

1" 

^ 

1 

REMARKS. 

£ 

OH 

^ 

H 

1° 

| 

s 

>> 

° 

»Xo. 

'ft 

£H 

0U 

pt. 

dr. 

dr. 

oz. 

OZ. 

dr. 

dr. 

oz. 

pt. 

dr. 

dr. 

dr. 

OZ. 

1 

1 

6 

to  black. 

? 

1 

C 

Brown    and  every  shade 

to  black. 

3 

1 

16 

16 

to  red. 

4 

1 

16 

1 

to  red. 

5 

1 

1 

1 

Bro  w  n  i  sh  -red  . 

•i 

3 

7 

1 

1 

4 

8 

1 

^ 

6 

Yellow  to  red. 

1 

1 

10 

9 

11 

1 

5 

2 

Slate 

1 

20* 

Blue 

13 

1 

1 

14 

1 

4 

10 

Black. 

[*Liquid  No.  6  must  be  boiled  and  cooled.  No.  13  must  be  used  at  180°  F.  or  over.  No.  6  is 
slow  in  action,  sometimes  taking  an  hour  to  give  good  results.  The  action  of  the  others  is 
usually  immediate.  W.] 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


II.   FOR  COPPER  (TJY  SIMPLE  IMMERSION). 


c" 

| 

'S 

'S 

o 

s 

a  A 

*  V 

g 

|g 

2 

•3 

3 

X 

"o 

0>  8 
IS   ° 

3 
^ 

< 

•R 

1 

M 

%4 

<3 
_o 

£ 

1 

2 

d 

*S*3 
IS 

QQ 

0) 

1 

1 

II 

"3 

I, 

S 

REMARKS. 

No. 

OB 

s 

CO 

pt. 

dr. 

OZ. 

dr. 

dr. 

dr. 

oz. 

dr. 

02. 

dr. 

i 

5 

Brown,  and  every  shade  to  black. 

16 

i 

5 

2 

Dark-brown  drab 

17 

i 

1 

1 

2 

Dark  -brown  drab. 

18 

i 

2 

1 

Bright  red. 

19 

i 

1 

1 

Red,  and  every  shade  to  black. 

20 

i 

.   . 

.  . 

1 

Steel-gray  (at  180°  F.) 

III.   FOR  ZINC  (AS  ABOVE). 


CJ 

s 

i 

g 

•o 

fc 

| 

| 

« 

g 

'S 

1" 

3 

. 

|d 

"o 

£ 

S 

1 

•s 

2 

•s 

"3 

•s 

J 

11 

S 

£ 

1 

1 

"o 

5 

Jj 

1 

1 

1 

II 

e., 

S 
1 

1 

REMARKS. 

£ 

a 

P 

A 

S 

3 

S 

i 

I 

1 

1 

No. 

A 

O2 

6 

O 

pt. 

dr. 

dr. 

dr. 

dr. 

oz. 

oz. 

dr. 

dr. 

21 

I 

5 

Black. 

§2 

1 

1 

Black 

23 

T 

. 

Dai  k  gray 

?4 

2 

1 

1 

* 

85 

2(5 

9 

1 

27 

* 

lied  (buil) 

?8 

1 

4 

4 

9q 

1 

8 

g 

30 

* 

I'm  pie  (boil). 

*  Made  to  the  consistency  of  cream.     (W.) 


Dead-black  on  Brass  Instruments. 
Place  about  a  thimbleful  of  lampblack 
on  a  smooth  surface  of  glass  or  porce- 
lain, drop  4  or  5  drops  of  gold  size  on  it, 
and  thoroughly  incorporate  the  same 
with  a  spatula.  It  should  form  a  stiff 
paste.  Use  as  little  of  the  size  as  pos- 
sible, as  an  excess  will  give  the  coating 
a  glossy,  instead  of  the  desired  dead  fin- 
ish. Add  about  double  the  volume  of 
turpentine;  mix  with  a  camel's  hair 
brush,  and  apply  to  the  surface  to  be 
coated,  (W.) 

Substitute  for  Gum  Arabic  in  Manu- 
facturing Bronze,  Colors.  The  coarsely- 
powdered  metallic  dust  used  in  manu- 


facturing bronze  colors  was  formerly 
rubbed  fine  with  a  concentrated  solu- 
tion of  gum  Arabic.  By  using  a  con- 
centrated aqueous  solution  of  5  parts  of 
dextrine  and  1  of  alum,  instead  of  solu- 
tion of  gum,  a  f;;r  more  beautiful  and 
cheaper  article  is  '  btained. 

Preservation  of  Bronze  Monuments. 
The  unsightly,  dark  coating  with  which 
most  new  monuments  of  bronze  become 
covered,  giving  them  the  appearance 
of  cast  iron,  does  not  consist,  as  has  been 
frequently  assumed,  of  sulphide  of  cop- 
per, but  of  a  mixture  of  soot  and  at- 
mospheric dust  with  the  oxides  of  the 
bronze  metals.  It  is  impossible  to  re- 


BUILDING  MATERIALS,  ETC. 


49 


move  this  coating  by  mechanical  means, 
or  by  diluted  sulphuric  acid,  but  it  can 
be  done  very  quickly  and  efficaciously 
by  washing  the  surface  with  a  con- 
centrated solution  of  carbonate  of  am- 
monium. By  this  means  a  layer  of 
patina  is  formed,  which  protects  the  sur- 
face of  the  monument  against  a  renewal 
of  the  formation  of  the  black  coating. 
But  as  this  operation  requires  skilled 
and  experienced  workmen,  Magnus  has 
devised  the  following  treatment  for  at- 
taining the  same  object.  The  surface 
of  the  monument  is  brushed  over,  at 
intervals  of  a  few  weeks,  with  a  mixture 
of  20  parts  of  acetic  acid  in  100  of  neat's- 
foot  oil.  The  acetate  and  oleate  of  cop- 
per produced  thereby  form  a  thin  green 
layer,  which  prevents  an  accumulation 
of  dirt  and  dust,  and  also  causes  the  for- 
mation of  a  patina. 


BUILDING  MATERIALS,  ARTIFICIAL 
BUILDING  STONE,  MORTARS,  ETC. 

Various  Formulce  for  Artificial  Stone. 

Artificial  Building  Stone.  No.  1. 
Mix  100  parts  of  hydraulic  lime,  which 
has  fallen  to  a  powder,  with  water  to 
form  a  paste.  To  this  add  250  parts 
of  gravel  and  50  of  coal  ashes,  or 
lixiviated  wood  ashes.  The  mass  is 
then  thoroughly  mixed,  and  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  water  added  to  make  the 
volume  of  the  mass  equal  to  500  parts. 
It  is  then  poured  into  moulds  made  of 
pine  boards,  where  it  is  allowed  to  re- 
main until  set. 

No.  2.  One  hundred  and  twenty -five 
parts  of  hydraulic  lime,  which  has  fall- 
en to  a  powder,  are  mixed  with  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  water  to  form  a  paste. 
To  this  are  added  250  parts  of  ground 
oyster  shells  and  150  of  ground  peat 
ashes,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water 
to  make  the  bulk  of  the  mass  equal  to 
500  parts.  It  is  then  poured  into  moulds 
as  above  and  dried. 

Artificial  Building  Stone,  Prepared 
with  Cork.  A  very  light  building  stone 
which  does  not  absorb  moisture,  and 
does  not  rot,  is  prepared  according  to 
the  following  process: 

Comminuted  cork,  or  cork  waste,  is 
mixed  with  cement,  sand,  clay,  lime, 
and  solution  of  water-glass,  by  adding 


sufficient  water  to  form  a  plastic  mass, 
which  is  pressed  in  moulds  and  dried 
in  the  air. 

The  most  advantageous  plan  is  to 
combine  the  comminuted  cork  with  a- 
mixture  of  clay,  lime,  solution  of  water- 
glass,  and  a  small  quantity  of  hair. 

The  addition  of  clay  is  necessary  to 
prevent  the  calcium  carbonate  whicf. 
is  formed  from  becoming  detached  from 
the  surface  of  the  comminuted  cork 
wood.  The  water  glass  is  added  in  or- 
der to  form  calcium  silicate,  which 
contributes  to  the  solidity  of  the  stone. 
The  hair  is  added  to  keep  the  forineo. 
stones  together  while  drying. 

Artificial  Stone  from,  Quartz  Sand 
and  Plumbic  Oxide.  Ground  quartz 
sand  is  mixed  with  2  to  10  per  cent,  of 
finely-ground  plumbic  oxide.  The 
harder  the  stones  are  to  be  the  more 
plumbic  oxide  must  be  used.  The  mix- 
ture is  moistened  with  water-glass, 
again  thoroughly  mixed,  and  then 
pressed  firmly  into  moulds.  The  re- 
sulting stone  is  dried  and  then  burned. 

E.  Schajf'er's  Artificial  Stone  (Eliza- 
beth, N.  J.).  A  mixture  of  1  part  of 
cement  and  3  of  sand  is  made  into  a 
dough  with  diluted  sulphuric  acid  (100 
parts  of  water  to  2  of  the  acid)  and  sub- 
jected to  a  strong  pressure.  The  stones 
are  then  dried  in  the  air  for  2  days, 
when  they  are  again  placed  for  12 
hours  in  diluted  sulphuric  acid  (100 
parts  of  water  to  3  of  acid),  and  finally 
dried. 

E.  Westermeyer's    Artificial    Stone 
(Chicago).    Two  parts  of  Portland  ce- 
ment, 1  of  sand,  and  1  of  cinders  are 
mixed  together  dry  and  then  moistened 
with  an  aqueous  solution  of  sulphate  of 
iron.     The  resulting  mortar  is  pressed 
in  moulds,  dried  for  2  weeks  in  a  warm 
place,   then  placed    for    24    hours   in 
water,  and  finally  dried  for  4  weeks. 

F.  Coignet's  (Paris).    Ten  parts  of 
unslaked  lime    are    carefully  ground 
with  3  to  4  parts  of  water  and  then 
mixed  with  40  to  60  parts  of  dry  sand 
and  2i  to  10  parts  of  hydraulic  cement. 
The    mixture    is    again    ground    and 
pressed  into  moulds. 

A.  Quesnot's  (Bloomington,  III.). 
Dissolve  1  part  of  alum  in  15  parts 
of  water,  and  add  2  parts  of  hydraulic 
lime,  10  of  sand,  and  1  of  cement  to  the 
required  consistency ;  press  into  moulds 


50 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


and  allow  to  remain  24  hours.  The 
blocks  are  fit  for  use  in  14  days,  but 
only  become  thoroughly  hard  after 
longer  drying. 

J.  Skellinger,  of  New  York,  mixes  4 
parts  of -coarse  sand,  1  of  cement,  with 
gravel,  pebbles,  etc.,  in  lime-water  to  a 
paste,  which  is  pressed  in  moulds  and 
the  surface  covered  with  a  composition 
of  2  parts  of  fine  sand,  1  of  cement,  and 
1  of  dry  metallic  coloring  matter.  If 
the  surface  of  the  stone  is  to  be  orna- 
mented the  design  is  laid  upon  the  bot- 
tom of  the  mould,  and  on  the  top  of 
this  is  placed  the  layer  of  the  last-men- 
tioned mixture.  When  the  stone  is 
nearly  dry  its  surface  is  brushed  over 
with  a  thin  solution  of  water-glass. 
Sidewalks  of  such  flags  have  been  laid 
in  several  streets  of  New  York,  and 
found  to  do  excellent  service. 

J.  Ordway,  of  Jamaica  Plains,  N.  Y. 
Thirty  parts  of  quartz  sand  and  1  of 
plumbic  oxide  are  mixed  to  a  dough 
with  10  of  water-glass.  Suitable  color- 
ing substances,  if  necessary,  are  added 
to  the  mass,  which  is  then  pressed  into 
moulds  and  exposed  for  2  hours  to  a 
red  heat. 

S.  Sorel,  of  Paris.  Natural  carbonate 
of  magnesia  is  heated  in  a  furnace  to  a 
red  heat  for  24  hours;  it  is  then 
powdered,  mixed  with  sand,  gravel, 
marble  waste,  etc.,  or  with  cotton, 
wool,  and  other  fibrous  substances,  in 
the  proportion  of  i  to  20  and  more  to  1, 
according  to  the  results  to  be  obtained. 
The  mass  is  moistened  with  solution 
of  chloride  of  magnesium,  pressed  into 
moulds,  or  worked  and  rolled  into 
slabs. 

Adolph  Ott,  New  York.  A  mixture  of 
hydraulic  cement  with  lime,  soluble 
siliceous  earth,  or  water-glass  is  stirred 
into  a  stiff  dough  with  a  mixture  of 
hydraulic  cement  and  heated  dolomite. 
The  mass  is  pressed  into  moulds  and 
dried  without  the  use  of  heat.  The 
dolomite  should  only  be  heated  to 
about  750°  F.,  to  prevent  the  carbonate 
of  lime  from  losing  its  carbonic  acid, 
and  then  powdered.  Stones  manufact- 
ured in  this  manner  resemble  the 
Portland  stones,  and,  it  is  claimed,  are 
harder. 

"Victoria"  Stone  (Highton's  Pro- 
cess). The  refuse  of  the  granite  quarries 
is  broken  up  into  pieces  of  suitable  size, 


and  4  parts  of  the  fragments  thus  ob- 
tained are  mixed  with  1  part  of  Portland 
cement,  with  the  addition  of  sufficient 
water  to  bring  the  mass  to  the  consist- 
ency of  dough.  The  mass  is  run  into 
moulds,  in  which  it  is  allowed  to  re- 
main for  several  days,  or  until  it  has 
set  solid.  The  blocks  are  then  im- 
mersed in  a  solution  of  silicate  of 
soda.  (W.) 

Ransome's  Artificial  Stone.  Clean 
and  dry  sand  and  other  suitable  sili- 
ceous and  earthy  ingredients  are  thor- 
oughly incorporated  in  a  mixing  mill 
with  silicate  of  soda.  The  resulting 
pasty  mass  is  then  pressed  into  moulds 
of  any  required  pattern  or  size,  and  when 
set  sufficiently,  immersed  in  a  solution 
of  chloride  of  calcium.  In  the  case  of 
large  pieces  the  saturation  with  chloride 
of  calcium  is  facilitated  by  the  use 
of  the  air-pump.  The  resulting  re- 
action is  the  formation,  by  double 
decomposition  of  the  ingredients,  of 
an  insoluble  calcium  silicate  and  of 
sodium  chloride.  The  first  named 
forms  a  solid  and  indurate  binding 
material  for  the  stone,  and  the  sodium 
chloride  is  removed  by  a  subsequent 
thorough  washing  with  water.  This 
last  operation  is  important,  since  if 
not  completely  removed  from  the 
stone  it  will  make  its  appearance  sub- 
sequently in  the  form  of  a  white  efflor- 
escence on  its  surface.  (W.) 

Apcenite  (Ransome's  Patent).  To 
avoid  the  difficulty  encountered  in 
washing  out  the  soluble  sodium  chloride 
in  the  process  just  described,  Mr.  Ran- 
some  devised  a  process  whereby  the 
insoluble  calcium  silicate  should  be 
formed  without  the  simultaneous  pro- 
duction of  a  soluble  salt — thus  dispens- 
ing with  the  washing  process.  This  he 
accomplishes  by  incorporating  with 
the  foregoing  mixture  a  material  capa- 
ble of  yielding  silica  in  form  suscepti- 
ble of  dissolving  freely  in  the  presence 
of  free  alkali.  Such  a  material  is 
found  in  the  earth  known  variously  as 
infusorial  earth,  diatomaceous  earth, 
fossil  meal,  etc.,  and  which  is  made  up 
largely  of  the  siliceous  coverings  of 
microscopic  plants  which  are  readily 
soluble  in  caustic  soda  or  potassa. 

Mr.  Ransome  introduces  some  of  this 
earth  into  his  mixture  of  lime,  sand, 
and  silicate  of  soda  solution.  When 


BUILDING  MATERIALS,  ETC. 


51 


intimately  mixed,  the  mass  is  intro- 
duced into  moulds  and  allowed  to 
harden  gradually.  Calcium  silicate  is 
formed  by  the  interaction  of  the  in- 
gredients present,  and  the  mass  gradu- 
ally becomes  indurated,  forming  a 
compact  stone,  which  improves  in 
strength  and  hardness  as  it  ages.  The 
action  of  the  siliceous  earth  introduced 
is  as  follows:  The  free  lime  and 
alumina  of  the  mixture  seize  on  the 
silica  of  the  sodium  silicate,  forming 
calcium  and  aluminum  silicate  and  free 
soda.  This  last  reacts  promptly  on 
the  silica  of  the  infusorial  earth  to  form 
a  fresh  portion  of  sodium  silicate,  and 
so  on,  the  soda  acting  as  the  carrier  of 
silica  to  the  lime,  until  it  is  all  com- 
bined. A  portion  of  the  soda  appears 
also  to  combine  at  each-  operation,  so 
that  this  is  gradually  united  with  the 
lime  as  a  double  silicate,  leaving  noth- 
ing to  be  removed  by  washing.  (W.) 

Frear's  Artificial  Stone.  A  mixture 
of  Portland  cement  and  sand  is  moist- 
ened with  a  solution  of  shellac,  then 
reduced  to  the  consistence  of  dough  by 
the  addition  of  water,  and  formed  by 
pressure  into  moulds  of  any  desired 
shape.  After  a  short  time  the  mass 
acquires  considerable  tenacity,  and 
may  be  removed  from  the  moulds  with- 
out injury.  The  "Frear"  stone  was 
at  one  time  quite  largely  used  in 
Chicago  and  other  cities  of  the  West 
and  Northwest.  (W.) 

Building  Stones,  Pipes,  etc. 

Sand 4000  parts. 

Limestone 528      " 

Burned  clay  (brickdust) ....         GO      " 
Water-glass 130  to  250      " 

are  mixed  together. 

Artificial  Millstones. 
Coarsely-broken  quartz  or  flint    .     4000  parts. 

Chalk  or  limestone 500  " 

Calcium  phosphate 45  " 

Ft-ldspar 60  " 

Fluorspar 10  " 

Water-glass 250  " 

Grindstones. 

Quartz  sand  or  emery      ....  235  parts. 

Limestone 75      " 

Calamine        30      " 

Calcium  phosphate      ...'..  30      " 

Feldspar 4      " 

Fluorspar 1  part. 

Water-glass 75  parts. 

are  mixed  and  the  mass  treated  in  the 


same  manner  as  indicated  for  artificial 
marble. 

New  Plastic  Water-proof  Grind- 
stones. Melt  100  parts  of  caoutchouc 
and  add  to  this  '25  parts  of  sulphur 
mixed  with  450  to  1050  parts  of  emery 
or  some  other  abrading  substance. 
Knead  the  mass  thoroughly,  press  it 
into  moulds,  and  subject  it  first  in  the 
moulds,  and  then  after  it  has  been 
taken  out,  to  a  temperature  of  572°  F. 

To  Imitate  Variegated  Marble.  Mix 
hydraulic  lime  and  ground  marble,  and 
incorporate  with  the  mixture  a  solu- 
tion of  alum  and  suitable  coloring  sub- 
stances. Differently  colored  masses  are 
then  mixed  together  and  cut  into  slabs. 

A.  Garvey,  of  Memphis,  Term.,  pre- 
pares "  lithomarlite  "  by  adding  to  3 
gallons  of  water,  £  pint  of  glue  water, 
and  4V  ounces  of  powdered  borax,  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  plaster  of  Paris  to 
form  a  dough.  An  imitation  of  marble 
is  produced  by  stirring  the  coloring 
substances  into  the  mass. 

Artificial  Marble.  The  following 
mixtures  have  been  recommended  for 
making  artificial  marble.  Grind  and 
thoroughly  mix : 

PARTS. 

Comminuted  stone 280  280 

Limestone  or  chalk 140  140 

Burned  calamine 5         6 

Calcined  feldspar 3         3 

Fluorspar 2         1.5 

Calcium  phosphate 2 

Water-glass 40       40 

On  the  addition  of  the  water-glass 
the  ingredients  are  quickly  mixed  and 
thereupon  pressed  into  moulds.  The 
finished  pieces  are  dried  at  a  tempera- 
ture gradually  rising  to  125°  F. 

Cement  from  Blast-furnace  Slag. 
Mr.  Ransome  has  lately  wrought  out 
an  important  invention  by  which  he  is 
enabled  to  convert  blast-furnace  slag 
into  a  hydraulic  cement  having  even 
greater  strength  than  Portland,  and  be- 
sides being  much  lighter  in  color. 

In  this  process  granulated  slag  is 
mixed  and  ground  with  chalk  or  lime, 
or,  in  his  latest  practice,  with  the 
spent  lime  of  the  gas  works.  The 
resulting  mixture  is  then  calcined  and 
again  ground.  The  resulting  cement  is 
found  to  possess  high  qualities  both  as 
regards  quick  setting  and  strength. 

When  spent  gas  lime  is  used,  Mr, 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Rz.asome  gets  rid  of  the  sulphur  with 
which  it  is  saturated  by  mixing  a  cer- 
tain proportion  of  powdered  coke  with 
the  slag  and  lime,  which,  in  the  furnace, 
reduces  tiie  sulphate  of  lime  present  to 
sulphide,  and  passing  a  jet  of  steam 
through  the  mass,  by  which  the  sulphur 
is  carried  off  as  sulphuretted  hydrogen, 
leaving  pure  lime  behind.  He  ^ias 
also  devised  a  revolving  retort  for  the 
calcination  of  his  materials,  by  which 
they  are  prevented  from  caking,  and  a 
subsequent  grinding  rendered  unneces- 
sary. This  cement  exhibited  con- 
siderably greater  strength  than  Port- 
land. (W.) 

Very  Hard  and  Durable  Cement, 
The  following  mixtures  give  three 
qualities  of  a  very  hard  and  durable 
cement  capable  of  resisting  the  action 
of  the  weather.  It  is  very  suitable  for 
cementing  fractures  in  marble  or  stone 
statues,  monuments,  or  ornamental 
work  which  are  exposed  to  atmospheric 
influences : 

PARTS. 


I.  II.  III. 

Portland  cement 12  6  9 

Chalk  paste 6  12  6 

Fine  sand 6  6  6 

Siliceous  earth 1  1  1 

The  above  ingredients  are  made  into 
a  thick  paste  with  soda  water-glass. 
No.  II.  gives  the  hardest  cement. 

To  Manufacture  Cement  from  Blast- 
furnace Slag. 

Blast-furnace  slag 2  parts. 

Lirne 5      " 

Clay 2      " 

are  mixed,  calcined,  and  ground. 

To  Prepare  White  Cement,  which 
hardens  under  water,  stir  25  parts  of 
fossil  meal  (infusorial  earth),  free  from 
iron,  and  75  of  chalk,  free  from  iron, 
into  a  solution  of  2.5  parts  of  potash 
or  soda,  and  form  the  mass  into  bricks, 
which  are  dried,  burned  in  a  white 
heat,  and  then  ground. 

To  Prepare  Artificial  Cement.  Schott- 
ler's  artificial  cement  consists  of: 

Plaster  of  Paris  (best  freshly  ground) 

6  parts  by  weight. 

Brickdust 3        " 

Finery  cinders      ....    4        "  " 

The     substances     are     ground     or 


pounded  fine,  then  sifted  through  a 
wire  sieve  (so  tine  as  not  to  allow  mus- 
tard seed  to  pass  through),  mixed  with 
water,  and,  shortly  before  the  cement 
is  to  be  used,  mixed  thoroughly  with  2 
parts  of  sifted  iron  filings.  The  mix- 
ture should  be  used  as  thin  and  soft  as 
possible — in  all  other  respects  like 
ordinary  mortar. 

To  Harden  Cement,  Lime,  and  Sim- 
ilar Materials.  Solutions  of  sulphate 
of  zinc,  sulphate  of  iron,  or  sulphate  of 
copper  are  used  for  this  purpose.  The 
plastering  of  cement  or  lime  mortar 
may  be  brushed  over  with  these  solu- 
tions or  the  mortar  mixtures  may  be 
stirred  together  with  them.  In  the  lat- 
ter case  the  percentage  of  lime  or  cement 
in  the  mortar  can  be  considerably  de- 
creased. 

Oil  Cement  Paint  for  Felt  Hoofing. 
Washed  graphite     ...       2  parts  by  weight. 

Rod  ochre 2 

Cement 16          "          " 

Barium  sulphate    ...     16         "          " 
Plumbic  oxide    ....      6         " 

are  ground  in  an  oil  varnish  prepared 
in  the  following  manner :  One  hundred 
parts  by  weight  of  good  linseed  oil  are 
boiled  for  8  hours  in  a  copper  boiler 
with  5  per  cent,  of  pyrolusite.  Ten 
parts  by  weight  of  flowers  of  sulphur 
and  20  parts  by  weight  of  French  pitch 
are  then  dissolved  in  the  mixture  and 
the  mass  filtered  before  it  becomes  cold. 
Twenty -five  pounds  of  oil  cement  color 
and  1A  gallons  of  linseed-oil  varnish  or 
linseed  oil  for  reducing  the  paint  are 
sufficient  to  give  2  coats  to  1000  square 
feet  of  roof  surface.  The  first  coat, 
while  still  wet,  is  uniformly  covered 
with  fine  dry  sand  by  means  of  a  sieve. 
The  sanding  should  be  done  during  the 
progress  of  the  painting,  so  that  the 
workman  is  not  obliged  to  step  into  the 
wet  paint.  The  free  sand  is  removed 
with  a  broom  before  the  second  coat  is 
given,  and  it  is  best  to  apply  this  8  days 
after  the  first.  The  second  coat  need 
not  be  sanded ;  its  purpose  being  to 
combine  with  the  first  to  an  insoluble 
mass  hard  as  stone  and  to  give  to  the 
roof  a  neat,  finished  appearance. 

Requisites  for  Good  Mortar.  To  ob- 
tain a  good  mortar  as  much  depends  on 
the  character  of  the  ingredients  and  the 
manner  of  mixing  them  as  on  the  qual- 


BUILDING  MATERIALS,  ETC. 


ity  of  the  lime.  It  does  not  necessarily 
follow  that  because  a  lime  is  good  the 
quality  of  the  mortar  will  be  good  also. 
The  best  lime  ever  burned  would  be 
spoiled  by  the  custom,  common  among 
some  builders,  of  mixing  with  it  earth 
and  rubbish  taken  from  the  foundations 
of  intended  buildings.  The  sand  should 
be  hard,  sharp,  gritty,  and,  for  purposes 
of  construction,  not  too  fine ;  it  should 
be  free  from  all  organic  matter.  Good 
sand  for  mortar  may  be  rubbed  between 
the  hands  without  soiling  them.  The 
water  should  also  be  free  from  organic 
matter,  and,  on  this  account,  should 
never  be  taken  from  stagnant  ponds. 
The  presence  of  salt  in  sand  and  water 
is  not  found  to  impair  the  ultimate 
strength  of  most  mortars ;  nevertheless 
it  causes  an  efflorescence  of  white,  frothy 
blotches  on  the  face  of  the  structure. 
It  also  renders  the  mortar  liable  to  re- 
tain moisture,  and  for  these  reasons 
should  never  be  present  in  mortar  in- 
tended for  architectural  purposes,  al- 
though for  dock  and  sea  walls  it  may 
generally  be  used  with  advantage  and 
economy. 

Sand  is  used  to  increase  the  resistance 
of  mortar  to  crushing,  to  lessen  the 
amount  of  shrinking,  and  to  reduce  the 
bulk  of  the  more  costly  material,  lime. 
Water  is  the  agent  by  which  a  combi- 
nation is  effected,  and,  as  sand  does  not 
increase  in  volume  by  moisture,  it  neces- 
sarily follows  that  no  more  of  the  dilut- 
ing element  should  be  employed  than 
is  absolutely  necessary  to  fill  the  inter- 
stices between  the  sand  and  render  the 
whole  into  a  paste  convenient  for  use, 
and  the  greater  strictness  with  which 
this  is  adhered  to  the  more  compact 
and  durable  will  be  the  mortar. 

Hydraulic  Mortar  from  Lime  and 
Alum  Shale.  Alum  shale,  which  is 
very  abundant  and  cheap  in  some  local- 
ities, mixed  with  lime,  gives  to  the  latter 
all  the  properties  of  hydraulic  mortar. 
It  dries  quickly,  becomes  very  hard  and 
impermeable.  To  prepare  it  add  J  to  i 
part  of  alum  shale  to  the  lime. 

To  Prepare  Bitumen  Mortar.  One 
part  of  bitumen,  gained  as  a  by-prod- 
uct in  the  manufacture  of  parafiine 
oil  and  mineral  oil,  and  thoroughly 
cleansed  by  means  of  acids  and  alkalies, 
is  mixed  with  2  to  6  parts  of  lime  mor- 
tar. The  latter  is  prepared  from  1 


part  of  good  slaked  lime  and  2  parts 
of  sharp  quartz  sand.  After  it  is 
mixed  and  has  become  hard  it  is 
brought  into  the  bitumen,  which  has 
been  previously  melted  and  heated  to 
140°  F. 

To  Prepare  Hydraulic  Mortar.  Burn- 
ed lime  is  changed  into  dry  calcium 
hydrate  as  fine  as  dust  by  moistening  it 
with  water  and  allowing  it  to  decompose. 
It  is  then  mixed  with  infusorial  earth, 
which  has  al.so  been  reduced  to  an  im- 
palpable powder  by  washing,  drying, 
gentle  heating,  and  pulverizing  the 
Jumps  which  may  have  been  formed. 
For  mortar  to  be  used  for  work  under 
water,  equal  parts  by  weight  of  the 
two  powders  are  mixed  together ;  while 
for  work  not  so  much  exposed  to  the 
action  of  water,  1  part  by  weight  of 
infusorial  earth  to  2  parts  by  weight  of 
calcium  hydrate  is  sufficient. 

Water-proof  Mortar.  The  lime  is 
slaked  with  a  solution  of  green  vitriol 
instead  of  ordinary  water.  The  neces- 
sary quantity  of  green  vitriol  is  dis- 
solved in  wa'rm  water,  the  lime  slaked 
in  the  usual  manner,  and  then  mixed 
with  fine  quartz  sand. 

To  Prepare  Clay  Plaster.  Stir 
gradually  1  part  of  rye  flour  into  26 
parts  of  water.  Boil  and  the  mixture 
will  give  24  parts  of  paste.  Take  1 
part  of  this  to  8  parts  of  dry  clay,  and 
mix  with  as  much  water  as  necessary 
to  apply  it. 

Plaster  for  Damp  Walls.  Two  coats 
of  ordinary  lime  mortar  are  applied  to 
the  wall.  The  last  coat  is  smoothed 
with  a  steel  float.  Upon  this  is  applied 
a  third  coat  of  very  fat  lime,  and  this  is 
glazed  with  pure  lime  compounded 
with  some  alumina  and  ?V  part  of  alum. 

Treatment  of  Asphaltum  for  Paving 
Purposes.  The  asphaltum  should  not 
be  softened  by  heat,  but,  in  a  powdered 
state,  partly  dissolved  by  impregnating 
it  with  bisulphide  of  carbon,  naphtha, 
or  benzine. 

Marbleizing  Sandstone.  By  impreg- 
nating sandstone  with  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  alumina  and  next  with  one 
of  water-glass,  it  acquires  a  marble-like 
appearance  and  can  be  polished.  It 
resists  the  action  of  fire  and  atmospheric 
influences  and  is  especially  adapted  for 
hydraulic  works.  By  treating  the  im- 
pregnated sandstone  at  a  very  high  tern- 


54 


TECHNO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


perature  it  acquires  a  kind  of  vitrifica- 
tion, to  which  any  desired  color  can  be 
given. 

To  Make  Sandstone  and  other  Porous 
Stones  Tough  and  Impermeable.  The 
stones  are  dried  at  350°  F.  and  then 
immersed  for  8  hours  in  coal  tar  heated 
to  350°  F.  Stones  treated  in  this  man- 
ner become  so  tough  that  they  can 
scarcely  be  broken  with  a  hammer. 
Bricks  become  hard  and  impermeable 
by  allowing  them  to  lie  for  4  hours  in 
tar  heated  to  235°  F. 

To  Repair  Worn-down  Sandstone 
Steps.  This  can  be  very  well  accom- 
plished with  good  cement  mortar.  The 
steps  are  first  thoroughly  moistened 
with  water  before  applying  the  mortar, 
consisting  of  1  part  of  cement  and  1  of 
fine  quartz  sand.  The  cement  and 
sand  must  be  mixed  dry,  some  water 
is  then  gradually  added,  while  the  mass 
is  constantly  stirred,  so  that  the  result 
will  be  as  plastic  a  mortar  as  possible, 
in  which  every  grain  of  sand  is  en- 
veloped in  a  coating  of  cement. 

For  repairing  broken  sandstone  steps, 
the  fracture  should  first  be  cut  as  rag- 
ged as  possible  and  soaked  with  water. 
Finely-sifted  cement  and  sand  should 
be  used,  or,  instead  of  the  latter,  finely- 
powdered  and  washed  sandstone  as 
near  the  color  of  the  steps  as  possible. 
The  mortar  is  prepared  from  1  part  of 
cement  and  2  of  sand. 

Concrete  Marble.  Mix  milk  of  lime 
with  finely-powdered  marble  or  lime- 
stone, or,  what  is  still  better,  with 
chalk,  until  the  mixture  acquires  the 
consistency  of  paste.  A  certain  quan- 
tity of  coarsely-powdered  limestone  may 
be  added  to  the  mixture  to  give  it  more 
cohesion.  The  mortar  should  be  ap- 
plied at  once,  as  it  dries  very  quickly 
and  becomes  hard. 

To  Make  Wood  A  Imost  Incombustible. 
Well-seasoned  wood  is  steeped  for  24 
hours  in  a  solution  of  water-glass  in 
three  times  its  volume  of  water.  It  is 
then  dried  in  the  air  for  a  few  days,  and 
the  soaking  for  24  hours  in  the  same 
solution  and  drying  repeated  several 
times.  It  is  finally  thoroughly  dried 
and  given  a  coat  of  a  mixture  of  1  part 
of  fresh  cement  and  4  parts  of  the  above 
solution  of  water-glass.  Not  too  much 
of  this  last  mixture  must  be  prepared 
at  one  time,  as  it  would  become  solid 


and  therefore  useless.  The  first  coat  is 
allowed  to  dry  for  24  hours.  The  wood 
receives  then  a  second  but  somewhat 
thicker  coat  of  cement  and  water-glass, 
and,  when  dry,  a  final  coat  of  ordinary 
water-glass,  which  gives  a  smooth,  glassy 
appearance  to  it.  Wood  treated  in  the 
above  manner  will  not  ignite  even  in  a 
strong  fire,  as  has  been  proved  by  ex- 
periments on  a  large  scale.  This  treat- 
ment protects  it  also  against  the  attacks 
of  insects  and  rotting. 

To  Dry  Damp  Walls.  The  old  plas- 
ter is  first  removed  from  the  walls  and 
the  joints.  Slabs  consisting  of: 

Rosin 3  parts. 

Tar 2      " 

Asphaltum 5      " 

Quartz  sand 6      " 

are  then  prepared.  The  smooth  sur- 
faces of  these  slabs  are  coated  with  a 
lacquer  consisting  of: 

Oil  of  turpentine 2  parts. 

Shellac 1  part. 

Spirit  of  wine 4  parts. 

and  then  strewed  with  sharp  sand,  while 
the  rough  surface  of  the  plates  is  fast- 
ened to  the  wall  with  a  mortar  consist- 
ing of: 

Sand 4  parts. 

Hydraulic  lime 2      " 

Portland  cement 1  part. 

The  joints  are  filled  in  with  a  putty, 
consisting  of: 

Rosin 6  parts. 

Asphaltum 1  part. 

Powdered  lime 2  parts. 

They  receive  then  a  coat  of  the  above- 
mentioned  varnish  and  are  also  strewn 
with  sharp  sand.  The  wall  is  then 
plastered. 

Lyons  Asphaltum. 

Bitumen 15  parts  by  weight. 

Coal  cinders 35 

Powdered  coke  ....     10          "          " 

Lime 130 

Fine  gravel 160          "          " 

The  bitumen  and  coal  cinders  are 
mixed  in  a  boiler,  heated,  and  skimmed 
until  the  formation  of  froth  has  ceased. 
The  powdered  coke  and  lime  are  then 
intimately  mixed  and  heated  to  575° 


COCOA  AND  CHOCOLATE. 


F.  in  order  to  dry  them,  when  they  are 
mixed  with  the  ingredients  in  the 
boiler,  and  finally  the  gravel  is  added. 

To  Make  Glass  Roofs  Water-tight. 
It  is  very  difficult  to  keep  glass  roofs 
with  iron  frames  water-tight,  as  the 
iron  contracts  by  cold  and  expands  by 
heat  more  than  the  glass.  To  remedy 
this  it  is  necessary  to  use  an  elastic 
putty  which  will  follow  the  variations 
in  the  iron.  This  is  prepared  in  the 
following  manner :  Two  parts  of  rosin 
and  1  of  tallow  are  melted  together  and 
intimately  mixed  with  some  red  lead. 
This  putty,  while  hot,  is  spread  upon 
both  sides  of  strips  of  linen  or  cotton 
cloth,  and  these,  while  the  putty  is  still 
warm,  are  pasted,  one-half  upon  the 
iron  riles  and  the  other  upon  the  glass. 
The  strips  should  be  about  i  inch  wide. 

To  Preserve  Wood.  The  following  is 
a  new  process  to  protect  wood  from 
rotting :  Boil  in  an  iron  boiler  4  to  8 
parts  of  linseed  oil  with  50  parts  of 
rosin,  40  parts  of  pulverized  chalk 
(whiting),  and  2000  to  3000  parts  of 
sharp  white  sand.  When  the  paste  is 
thoroughly  boiled  add  1  part  of  cuprous 
oxide  and  finally  1  part  of  sulphuric 
acid.  The  mass  is  then  thoroughly 
stirred  together  and  applied,  while  hot, 
to  the  wood  with  a  stiff  brush.  If  the 
mass  is  too  thick  it  should  be  thinned 
with  linseed  oil. 

Bricks  (Size  and  Weight}.  Traut- 
wine  gives  the  usual  size  of  bricks  in 
Eastern  cities  as  8i  by  4 2  inches,  equiva- 
lent to  66  cubic  inches,  or  26. '2  bricks 
to  the  cubic  foot,  or  707  to  the  cubic 
yard. 

The  weight  of  a  good  common  brick 
of  the  above  dimensions  will  average 
about  4i  pounds,  or  118  pounds  to  the 
cubic  foot,  or  3186  pounds  (nearly  H 
tons)  to  the  cubic  yard. 

A  good  pressed  brick  of  the  same  size 
will  average  about  5  pounds,  or  131 
pounds  to  the  cubic  foot,  or  3537  pounds 
(somewhat  over  H  tons)  to  the  cubic 
yard.  (W.) 

Making  Brick  Masonry  Impervious 
to  Water.  Sylvester's  process,  used 
with  success  on  the  Croton  Reservoir  in 
Central  Pai-k,  consists  in  the  successive 
application  to  the  walls  of  two  washes, 
one  composed  of  Castile  soap  and  water 
and  the  other  of  alum  and  water.  The 


proportions  are  f  of  a  pound  of  soap  to 
1  gallon  of  water,  and  i  pound  of  alum 
to  4  gallons  of  water.  The  walls  should 
be  quite  dry  and  clean  and  the  temper- 
ature of  the  air  should  not  be  below 
50°  F.  The  soap  wash  should  be  laid 
on  first :  it  should  be  laid  on  with  a  flat 
brush  and  at  a  boiling  heat.  After  24 
hours  the  wash  will  be  dry  and  hard, 
and  the  alum  wash  should  be  applied 
at  a  temperature  of  60°  to  70°  F.  This 
is  allowed  to  remain  for  24  hours,  when 
the  whole  operation  is  repeated  until 
the  wall  has  become  impervious  to 
water.  The  number  of  applications 
required  will  depend  on  trie  water 
pressure  to  which  the  wall  will  be  sub- 
jected. In  the  case  of  the  Croton 
Reservoir  above  named  4  coatings  were 
found  to  render  the  reservoir  free  from 
leakage  under  40  feet  head.  (W.) 


COCOA  AND  CHOCOLATE. 

Cocoa  and  chocolate  are  prepared 
from  the  cocoa  bean.  This  is  character- 
ized by  the  presence  of  more  than  hal  f 
of  its  weight  of  a  fatty  substance,  known 
as  cocoa  butter,  consisting  of  oleine  and 
stearine,  and  does  not  become  rancid 
like  the  natural  fats  generally. 

The  beans,  carefully  cleansed  and 
selected,  partly  by  sifting,  and  partly 
by  picking  out  the  injured  and  unripe 
ones,  are  alLowed  to  ferment  in  heaps 
for  a  short  time  (which  improves  their 
flavor),  and  then  roasted  like  coffee. 
The  drums  used  for  this  purpose  should 
be  of  such  a  size  that  about  450  pounds 
of  the  seeds  will  fill  them  about  §  full. 
Inside  of  the  drum  are  4  blades,  the 
object  of  which  is  to  stir  and  mix  the 
seeds  while  roasting.  The  beans  should 
be  roasted  not  quite  as  much  as  coffee ; 
they  must  not  have  an  empyreumatic 
odor,  but  a  peculiar,  agreeable  aroma. 
The  roasted  beans  having  been  crushed 
and  winnowed,  are  ground  in  warm 
mills,  in  which  the  fatty  matter  melts 
and  unites  with  the  ground  beans  to  a 
paste.  The  mill  for  grinding  (Fig.  4) 
consists  of  3  large  granite  rollers,  A,  B, 
C,  the  surfaces  of  which  must  be  smooth. 
The  centre  roller  B  runs  in  brasses, 
while  A  and  C  rest  upon  the  blocks  r, 
r,  and  ?•',  r'.  Each  of  these  can  be  uni- 


TECIINO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


formly  pushed  forward  upon  the  iron 
rails  x  x  by  the  action  of  an  endless 


Fig.  4. 

screw  v,  t/,  and  thus  are  brought  nearer 
to,  or  removed  from,  the  centre  roller 
B.  The  rollers  are  geared  to  turn  at 
different  speeds.  The  centre  roller  B 
generally  makes  2  revolutions,  while 
C  makes  6,  and  A  1.  The  effect  of  this 
is  that  every  roller  grinds  upon  the  sur- 
face lying  behind  it,  and  that  the  cocoa 
between  the  first  pair  is  transferred 
from  one  roller  to  the  other.  The  paste 
Is  scraped  from  the  roller  C  by  a  blade 
of  hardened  steel,  and  conveyed  into  a 
tin  mould  placed  under  the  machine. 
To  keep  the  fatty  matter  in  a  melted 
state,  a  copper  box,  into  which  steam  is 
introduced,  is  placed  under  the  rollers. 
When  the  machine  has  worked  for  some 
time,  sufficient  heat  is  generated  by  fric- 
tion to  allow  of  the  steam  being  shut 
off. 

For  the  manufacture  of  chocolate  3 
machines  are  required :  The  mixing 
boiler,  roller,  and  moulding  tables. 
The  mixing  boiler  consists  of  a  round 
trough  of  granite  provided  with  a  mix- 
ing apparatus.  The  cocoa  is  intimately 
mixed  with  a  corresponding  quantity 
of  sugar  and  other  ingredients,  the  warm, 
soft  mixture  divided  into  lumps  of  a 
determined  weight,  and  placed  in  tin 
moulds  upon  a  shaking  table.  The 
soft  mass,  by  this  motion,  spreads  out 
uniformly  in  the  moulds,  and  the  air 
bubbles  enclosed  in  it  escape.  The 


chocolate  in  cooling  off  contracts  and 
detaches  itself  from  the  sides  of  the 
mould.  Good  chocolate  forms  a  brown 
homogeneous  mass  of  great  density. 
The  surface  of  the  cake  should  have  a 
dull  lustre,  and,  when  broken,  the  frac- 
ture, in  cool  weather,  must  be  sharp 
and  show  no  lustrous  or  white  gran- 
ules. 

Starch,  either  2  to  3  per  cent,  of  arrow- 
root or  other  starch,  or  4  to  6  per  cent, 
of  kiln-dried  wheat  or  barley  flour  is 
added  to  almost  every  kind  of  chocolate. 
(This  adulterant  is  frequently  added  in 
much  larger  proportion.  W.)  Va- 
nilla, spices,  and  other  flavoring  sub- 
stances are  also  added. 

We  give  in  the  following  a  number 
of  receipts  for  manufacturing  dif- 
ferent varieties  and  qualities  of  choco- 
late: 

Ordinary  Chocolate.  I.  Mix  2  pounds 
each  of  roasted  and  ground  cocoa 
and  pulverized  sugar,  and  i  ounce  of 
powdered  cinnamon. 

II.  Mix  6i  pounds  of  roasted  and 
ground  cocoa,  a  like  quantity  of  sugar, 
1  ounce  of  powdered  cinnamon,  a  like 
quantity  of  rice  roasted  light  brown,  i 
ounce  of  cardamons,  and  i  ounce  of 
cubebs. 

Spiced  Chocolate.  Twelve  hundred 
and  fifty  parts  of  roasted  cocoa  and  a 
like  quantity  of  sugar. 

The  cocoa  is  ground  very  fine,  at  a 
moderate  heat,  until  it  forms  a  thin 
paste.  It  is  then  mixed  with  the  sugar 
and  the  following  ingredients,  all  finely 
powdered : 

Fine  cinnamon 18  parts, 

Cloves 9      ' 

Cardamon 4      ' 

The  mass  is  then  pressed  in  moulds. 

Other  Receipts  for  Spiced  Chocolate. 
PARTS. 


I. 

2000 
1750 
50 


Roasted  cocoa  . 
Sugar  ..... 
Ceylon  cinnamon 

Cloves 1; 

Vanilla    ground  with 

sugar 50 

Cardamon      ....         1 

Mace 

Coriander      .... 
Sugar  ground  with 
Oil  of  lemon .... 


II. 

5000 
50<X) 

'3* 


8 
133 


III. 

5000 
6000 
200 
66^ 


COCOA  AND  CHOCOLATE. 


Fine  Spanish  Spiced  Chocolate. 

Cocoa 1500     parts. 

Fine  white  sugar     .     .     . 
Ground  vanilla     .... 

Cloves     

Cardamon 

Cinnamon , 

Mace 


1500 
10} 
MJ 

33 
50 
16 


Cedratoil 30      drops 


Vienna  Chocolate.    Mix : 


PARTS. 


Cocoa  mass    . 

I.          II. 

5000         loi  0 

Powdered  sugar 

5000         750 

Powdered  cinnamon    .     . 

Powdered  chives 

.     .     200 
100 

Powdered  cardamon    . 
Peruvian  balsam  ground 
sugar 

.     .       25 
with 
25 

Vanilla       
Ambergris      

.     .                     25 

Paris  Chocolate. 
Cocoa  mass        1000  parts. 
Sugar    .     .        1000     " 
Vanilla      .            33     " 
Ambergris              1  part. 
Peruvian  bal 
sam    .     .     . 
Fine      cinna- 
mon .     .     . 

Milan  Chocolate. 

1500      parts. 
1500 
16 

33         " 

Hygienic  Chocolate.  This  consists 
either  of  cocoa  formed  into  cakes,  or 
equal  quantities  of  cocoa  and  white 
sugar,  or  1  part  cocoa  to  V,  parts  sugar, 
but  contains  no  spices  whatever. 

Iceland  Moss  Chocolate  consists  of: 

Cocoa 250  parts. 

Sugar 250      " 

Finely-powdered  Iceland  moss  .     .    125     " 
Finely-powdered  salep       ....       10      " 

Other  Receipts  for  Iceland  Moss  Choc- 
olate. One  quart  of  hot  water  in  which 
&  ounce  of  potash  has  been  dissolved  is 
poured  over  5|  ounces  of  selected  Ice- 
land moss.  This  is  allowed  to  stand 
quietly  for  1  hour;  the  fluid  is  then 
strained  off  through  a  cloth,  the  moss 
squeezed  out  with  the  hands,  and  thor- 
oughly washed  3  or  4  times  with  fresh 
water.  It  is  again  squeezed,  dried  in  a 
warm  place,  powdered,  and  sifted. 
Four  and  three-quarter  ounces  of  this 
powder  are  mixed  with  i  ounce  of  pow- 
dered salep  root  and  H  pounds  of  pow- 
dered sugar.  One  and  one-half  pounds 
of  cocoa  mass  are  added  and  the  whole 
thoroughly  mixed. 


Doliar's  Moss  Chocolate. 
Roasted  and  finely-ground  cocoa  .     1      pound. 
Finely-powdered  white  sugar  .     .  13^  ounces. 
Dried  and  finely-powdered  moss  .        %  ounce. 
Powdered  salep  root ,  JZ      " 

Chocolate  with  Meat  Extract.  One- 
half  ounce  of  meat  extract  is  dissolved 
in  the  same  quantity  of  lukewarm  dis- 
tilled water  and  mixed,  while  still 
warm,  with  8}  ounces  of  cocoa.  The 
ingredients  must  be  very  intimately 
mixed.  The  mass  is  then  formed  into 
cakes  like  ordinary  chocolate. 

Iron  Chocolate.    Mix  : 

Chocolate 1000     parts. 

Cloves 5          " 

Cardamon 2%      " 

Ethereal  oil  of  cinnamon  ...        1      part. 

Peruvian  balsam 2      pints. 

Iron  in  an  impalpable  powder     .10         " 

Chocolate  with  Carbonate  of  Iron. 
Mix: 

Chocolate 1000  parts. 

Carbonate  of  iron 10      " 

Vanilla 4      " 

Chocolate  Lozenges  with  Carbonate 
of  Iron.  Five  ounces  of  pure  crystal- 
lized ferrous  sulphate,  or,  what  is  still 
better,  freshly  precipitated  with  alco- 
hol, are  dried  at  a  .moderate  heat  until 
the  residue  weighs  4i  ounces.  Add  to 
this  4i  ounces  of  dried  and  powdered 
sodium  bicarbonate  and  4  ounces  of 
powdered  sugar.  Four  ounces  of  co- 
coa, melted  at  a  moderate  tempera- 
ture, are  then  gradually  incorporated 
with  the  mixture  and  60  lozenges 
formed  from  the  resulting  mass. 

Racahout  des  Arabes.    Mix : 

PARTS. 


I. 

500 
500 
125 


II. 

500 

250 
250 
125 


Fine  oatmeal  .... 
Powdered  chocolate  .  . 
Powdered  vanilla  sugar  . 
Powdered  starch  .  .  . 
Fine  wheat  flour  .  .  . 
Powdered  sugar  .  .  . 
Powdered  cinnamon  . 


Dr.  Koeben's  Nourishing  and 

Healing  Powder. 
I.  II. 

Parts.  Parts. 

White  Sugar.  .  65  Chocolate  .  .  60 
Prepared  cocoa  .  30  Sugar  ...  35 
Finest  flour  .  .  25  Finest  flour  .  25 
Roasted  acorns  .  10  Roasted  acorns  10 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Vakaka  Indorum.    This  consists  of: 

Roasted  cocoa 117     parts. 

Sugar 320 

Cinnamon 14         " 

Vanilla 3.5      " 

Gray  ambergris &      part. 

Musk J* 


Palamaud  or  Palmgr&ne,  or  A  llataim 
du  Harem.  This  consists  of: 

Roasted  cocoa 8  parts. 

Finest  starch 32      " 

Bice 32      " 

Powdered  red  sandal  wood      ...      1  part. 

According  to  other  formulae  ground 
acorns  are  substituted  for  starch. 

White  Chocolate.  The  following 
mixture  is  kneaded  into  a  dough  by 
adding  a  sufficient  quantity  of  boiling 
water.  The  resulting  paste  is  then 
formed  into  small  cakes  or  lozenges : 

Wh  jte  sugar S]4  pounds. 

Powdered  rice      ........  Ug       " 

Arrowroot       5%  ounces. 

Tincture  of  vanilla b%  drachms. 

Cocoa  butter 5%  ounces. 

Gum  Arabic    .  .  232       " 


CELLULOID,  CAOUTCHOUC,  GUTTA- 
PERCHA,  AND  SIMILAR  COMPOSI- 
TIONS. 


Preparation  of  Celluloid.  Any  sub- 
jitance  containing  cellulose,  or  vegetable 
fibre  free  from  incrusting  components, 
as  unsized  paper,  cotton,  wool,  linen, 
hemp,  white  rags  cut  fine  and  perfectly 
clean,  certain  varieties  of  white  wood, 
may  be  used  as  material  in  the  manu- 
facture of  celluloid.  They  are  dried  at 
212°  F.,  ground  up,  and  stored  in  a 
place  free  from  moisture.  Three  ves- 
sels of  glass,  or  any  other  material  not 
liable  to  be  attacked  by  acids,  are  re- 
quired for  converting  the  cellulose  into 
pyroxyline.  The  cellulose  is  first  soaked 
iii  one  of  the  vessels  for  10  to  15  minutes 
in  acid;  it  is  then  pressed  out,  trans- 
ferred to  the  second  vessel  containing 
fresh  acid,  consisting  of  a  mixture  of  3 
parts  of  sulphuric  acid  of  1.834  specific 
gravity  and  2  of  concentrated  com- 
mercial nitric  acid.  The  acids  in  the 
first  and  second  vessels  may  be  used  in 
subsequent  operations  by  raising  the 
temperature  to  about  86°  to  95°  F.,  and 
keeping  the  material  in  the  bath  for  a 


few  hours.  When  the  conversion  is 
complete,  the  pyroxyline  is  pressed  out 
and  freed  from  adhering  acid  by  wash- 
ing it  in  the  third  vessel.  It  is  again 
pressed  out  and  further  washed  in  tanks 
resting  on  an  inclined  plane  and  fed 
with  running  water.  To  convert  the 
pyroxyline  into  celluloid,  42  to  50  parts 
of  camphor  are  intimately  mixed  with 
100  of  pyroxyline,  wrapped  in  a  strong 
tissue  capable  of  great  resistance,  then 
enclosed  in  bags  made  of  horse-hair 
cloth,  and  placed  between  the  plates  of 
a  warm  press,  and  subjected  to  pressure 
for  1  hour  or  longer.  The  cakes  re- 
maining in  the  bags  can  then  be  brought 
into  a  heated  cylinder  press,  and  next 
into  an  apparatus  in  which  a  vacuum 
prevails,  while  the  cylinder  iacket  con- 
tains such  substances  as  chloride  of 
calcium,  concentrated  sulphuric  acid, 
etc.,  for  the  absorption  of  moisture. 
Resinous  or  other  substances  and  color- 
ing matter  may  be  incorporated  with 
this  product,  to  obtain  uniform  1  y  colored 
or  marbled  masses.  Celluloid  made 
by  this  and  similar  processes  becomes 
plastic  when  heated,  and  may  be  cast. 
The  celluloid  is  made  incombustible  by 
washing  the  pyroxyline  in  a  solution 
of  silicate  of  soda,  and  incorporating 
with  it  phosphate  of  ammonia  or  soda, 
borate  of  lead,  or  fluxes  used  in  porce- 
lain and  glass  painting. 

G.  Mag  mis  &  Co.,  oj  Berlin,  dissolve 
50  parts  of  gun-cotton  in  a  mixture  of 
100  parts  of  ether  and  25  of  camphor, 
and  evaporate  the  solvent  from  the  re- 
sulting transparent,  jelly-like  mass  un- 
til it  is  plastic.  It  is  then  exposed  in 
thin  plates  to  the  air  until  it  is  hard  and 
capable  of  taking  a  polish.  Billiard 
balls,  etc.,  are  prepared  by  rolling 
several  plates  together,  and  rasping  the 
new-formed  plate  into  a  coarse  powder. 
This  is  dried  at  222.8°  F.,  pressed  in 
metallic  moulds,  and  heated  for  li  or, 
at  the  utmost,  If  hours  at  248°  F. 

Treatment  of  Pyroxyline  in  the  Manu- 
facture of  Plastic  Masses.  Pyroxyline 
is  prepared  by  saturating  some  form  of 
cellulose,  linen,  cotton,  starch,  dex- 
trine, etc.,  in  a  mixture  of  nitric  and 
sulphuric  acids. 

After  a  sufficient  soaking  the  acid  is 
drawn  off,  the  material  thoroughly 
washed  and  allowed  to  diy  for  12  to  24 
hours.  The  resulting  product,  while 


CELLULOID,  CAOUTCHOUC,  ETC. 


still  moist,  is  treated  with  a  solvent,  as 
methyl  alcohol,  ethyl  alcohol,  sul- 
phuric ether,  etc.,  to  which  gum,  bal- 
sam, resins,  coloring  matter,  etc.,  have 
been  added.  The  solvent  may  be  used 
in  the  proportion  of  i  gallon  to  2  2  pounds 
of  pyroxyline,  but  may  vary  according 
to  circumstances.  The  proportion  of 
gums  and  pigments  depends  on  the 
color,  tenacity,  and  degree  of  hardness 
desired.  The  mass  is  now  heated  in  a  suit- 
able vessel  from  150°  to  220°  F.,  whereby 
it  becomes  plastic ;  it  is  then  ground, 
thoroughly  mixed,  and  dried  at  a  tem- 
perature not  exceeding  150°  F.,  when 
it  is  brought,  while  still  plastic,  into 
the  desired  moulds. 

How  to  Work  and  Treat  Celluloid. 
Celluloid  is  worked  and  treated  in  the 
same  manner  as  all  other  horn-like 
substances.  The  same  instruments 
may  be  used  for  turning,  boring,  and 
planing  it.  By  heating  it  to  165°  F.  it 
becomes  sufficiently  plastic  to  assume 
all  desired  forms  by  pressing.  It  is 
necessary  to  heat  the  mould,  which 
should  be  of  brass,  before  pressing,  and 
the  article  of  celluloid  should  be  cooled 
off  in  the  mould  by  means  of  cold  water. 
If  the  heat  is  raised  above  165°  F.  the 
material  should  remain  in  the  mould 
only  a  few  minutes.  For  polishing,  it 
is  best  to  use  very  fine  pumice  stone 
and  powdered  emery  mixed  in  equal 
parts,  and  kneaded  into  a  dough  with 
hot  soap,  which  must  be  free  from  rosin. 
The  mixture  is  then  dried  and  spread 
upon  the  polishing  instrument.  To 
cement  celluloid  upon  wood,  leather, 
etc.,  a  solution  of  1  part  of  shellac  in 
1  part  of  spirit  of  camphor  and  3  to  4 
parts  of  alcohol  90  per  cent,  strong  is 
required.  The  best  cement  is  pure, 
very  finely-scraped  celluloid  dissolved 
in  spirit  of  wine  90  per  cent,  strong. 
When  the  material  is  cut  with  iron  in- 
struments, moving  quickly  to  and  fro, 
creating  considerable  heat,  it  is  recom- 
mended to  allow  water  to  trickle  upon 
the  cutting  or  sawing  tool.  When 
articles  are  to  be  punched  or  pressed 
from  the  material,  it  should  be  heated 
in  lukewarm  water  to  100°  F.,  as  this 
will  prevent  it  from  tearing  and  splinter- 
ing. In  case  it  has  become  brittle,  it  is 
dipped  into  spirit  of  camphor,  but  must 
not  remain  in  it  too  long.  Finished 
articles  should  not  be  kept  in  air-tight 


boxes,  since  these  will  prevent  the  evap- 
oration of  the  camphor. 

New  Celluloid.  Pared  potatoes  are 
treated  for  36  hours  with  a  mixture  of 
8  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  and  100  parts 
of  water.  The  mass  is  then  washed  and 
dried  between  sheets  of  blotting-paper 
and  pressed.  Tobacco  pipes,  closely 
resembling  meerschaum,  are  manu- 
factured from  this  mass  in  France,  and 
it  is  claimed  that  a  strong  pressure  im- 
parts sufficient  hardness  to  it  so  that  it 
can  be  used  as  a  substitute  for  ivory 
and  for  the  manufacture  of  billiard 
balls,  etc.  By  using  sodium  hydrate 
3  per  cent,  strong  instead  of  sulphuric 
acid,  the  mass  becomes  more  elastic, 
but  acquires  a  dirty  white  color.  By 
using  soda  lye  19  per  cent,  strong  a 
horn-like  mass  is  obtained  which  can 
be  worked  in  the  same  manner  as  horn. 
The  action  is  far  more  energetic  if  white 
turnips  are  treated  in  the  same  manner. 
To  obtain  a  mass  closely  resembling 
buck's  horn,  the  turnip  is  bored  through 
in  the  centre  of  the  conical  end,  but  the 
upper,  larger  end  is  left  uninjured.  It 
is  then  stuck  upon  a  stick,  dipped  in 
hot  tallow,  and  placed  near  a  warm 
stove,  when,  in  a  few  days,  it  will  as- 
sume a  form  closely  resem  bl  ing  a  buck's- 
horn  handle,  which  requires  only  to  be 
colored  by  coating  it  with  Paris  polish- 
ing lacquer.  A  variety  of  articles  can 
be  manufactured  in  the  same  manner. 
The  mass  is  princi 


ipally  used  for 
olored  in  an 


or  veneer- 

ng. It  can  be  colored  in  any  manner 
desired,  and  by  moistening  with  diluted 
glycerine  water  it  becomes  as  pliable 
as"  leather  and  well  suited  for  coating 
various  articles.  By  using  yellow  tur- 
nips instead  of  white,  forms  resembling 
buck's  horn,  but  of  the  color  of  coral, 
are  obtained.  They  are  used  for  knife, 
umbrella,  and  whip-handles,  and  walk- 
ing-sticks. This  substance  has  been 
called  coral  celluloid,  or  corallin. 

Manufacture  of  Rubber  Stamps. 
For  this  a  vulcanizing  apparatus  with 
lamp  and  thermometer,  as  used  by 
dentists,  is  required,  and  an  iron 
chase,  in  which  the  types  are  firmly 
held.  The  types  are  o'iled  in  the  usual 
manner,  and  'the  vulcanite  poured  over 
them.  The  matrix  is  not  allowed  to 
become  dry,  but  a  plate  of  vulcan-. 
ized  caoutchouc  is  laid  upon  it.  The 
caoutchouc  is  forced  into  the  matrix  by 


60 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


pressing  between  two  iron  plates;  a 
few  sheets  of  paper  beiug  placed  be- 
tween them  to  prevent  the  caoutchouc 
from  sticking  to  the  matrix.  The  whole 
is  then  placed  in  the  water  of  the  vul- 
canizing apparatus,  and  heated  to  305° 
F.  After  it  has  become  cold  the  mould 
is  taken  out  and  the  caoutchouc  de- 
tached. 

To  Soften  Rubber  Hose  after  it  has 
become  Hard.  Dip  the  hose  in  petro- 
leum, and  hang  it  up  for  2  days  to  al- 
low the  oil  to  drip  off,  and  repeat  the 
operation  once  or  twice. 

Metallized  Caoutchouc.  Mix  non- 
vulcanized  caoutchouc  with  powdered 
lead,  zinc,  or  antimony,  and  vulcanize 
the  product  in  the  usual  manner. 

To  Jtemove  all  Stickiness  from  the 
Surface  of  Dried  Caoutchouc.  Pour 
11  parts  of  oil  of  turpentine  overl  part 
of  caoutchouc.  This  will  give  a  tliiu 
paste.  Stir  into  this  a  small  quantity, 
about  i  part,  of  hot,  concentrated  liver 
of  sulphur.  This  gives  a  yellow  emul- 
sion, which,  in  drying,  leaves  the  caout- 
chouc entirely  elastic  and  without  the 
slightest  stickiness. 

Cement  for  Vulcanized  Caoutchouc : 

Stockholm  pitch 3  parts. 

American  rosin 3     " 

Crude  caoutchouc 6     " 

Oil  of  turpentine 12     " 

are  heated  and  stirred  together.  Should 
the  mass  be  too  thick  for  desired  pur- 
poses, add  some  more  oil  of  turpentine. 
The  surfaces  to  be  cemented  should  be 
roughened  with  pumice-stone  or  emery 
before  the  cement  is  applied. 

Utilization  of  Vulcanized  Caoutchouc 
Waste.  The  waste  is  comminuted  as 
much  as  possible  and  exposed  to  a  tem- 
perature of  570°  F.  until  a  plastic  mass 
is  formed.  The  heating  is  done  by 
passing  steam  through  a  cylinder  con- 
taining the  comminuted  waste.  Ten 
pounds  of  the  mass  are  then  mixed  with 

Palm  oil 2     ounces. 

Sulphur 5%      " 

White  lead    or    magnesia,   lime, 

zinc  oxide,  or  clay 3    pounds. 

If  necessary  the  articles  manufactured 
from  this  mass  are  exposed  to  heat. 

Gutta-percha  Composition.     The  fol- 
lowing compositions  are  suitable    for 


i  ornaments,  mouldings,  tea-traya,  pict« 
ure  frames,  etc.  : 

I.  II. 

PartB.  Parts. 

Gutta-percha   .     .     4    Gutta-percha  .     .     4 
Bone-black  ...     2    Powdered   whale- 
White  arsenic  .     .   ^       bone    or    horn 

shavings  ...     2 

A  hard  composition  of  a  light  color 
consists  of: 

Gutta-percha    ........     3    parts. 

Ivory  or  bone  dust     ......     1    part 

Pipe-clay       .........    %      " 

To  Color  C'oittc'iouc  and  Gutta- 
percha  BlacJ-.  Boil  the  material  in  a 
solution  of  1  part  of  blue  vitriol  in  10 
parts  of  water,  and  compounded  with 
1  part  of  caustic  ammonia,  or  in  a  solu- 
tion of  1  part  of  potassium  bisulphate 
and  i  part  of  blue  vitriol  in  10  parts 
of  water. 

Green.    Boil  : 

Sal-ammoniac  ........     1  part. 

Blue  vitriol        ........    %      " 

Burned  lime      ........     2  parts. 

Water       ..........  10       " 

The  dark  or  light  shade  of  the  color 
can  be  regulated  by  adding  more  or  less 
of  the  substances. 

Solution  of  Gutta-percha  for  the  Use 
of  Shoemakers.  Waste  of  gutta-percha 
is  soaked  in  boiling  water  and  cut  into 
small  pieces.  The  pieces  are  placed  in 
a  tin  or  sheet-iron  vessel  with  a  close- 
fitting  cover,  and  covered  with  coal-tar 
oil,  and  allowed  to  stand  quietly  from 
12  to  18  hours.  They  are  then  heated 
in  hot  water  until  they  melt,  and  the 
mass  is  thoroughly  stirred  for  some 
time.  As  the  solution  congeals  on  be- 
coming cold,  it  must  be  placed  in  boil- 
ing water  until  it  is  to  be  used. 

Caoutchouc  Compositions  for  Sharp' 
ening  and  Polishing  Knives,  etc.  Mix  : 


PARTS  BY  WEIGHT. 


I. 

Caoutchouc  .  .  280 
Powdered  emery  1120 
Graphite  .  . 
Zinc  white  . 
Yellow  ochre 
Sulphur  .  . 
Lampblack  . 


II. 

280 


III. 

280 


512      488 


6% 


IV. 

280 


1120 
56 


V. 

280 
1120 


Nos.  I.  and  V.,   containing  emery, 
are    the    hardest   and   best  suited  for 


CELLULOID,  CAOUTCHOUC,  ETC. 


61 


grinding  compositions,  while  Nos.  II.,  i 
111.,  and  IV.  are  used  for  polishing! 
purposes. 

Caoutchouc  Cements.    For  Glass. 
PARTS. 


I.  II. 

Caoutchouc 1  12 

Mastic 12  120 

Diunmur 4 

Chloroform 50  600 

Beu/iue 10 

The  cement,  on  being  applied  to  the 
glass,  adheres  at  once,  and  when  dry 
possesses  a  high  degree  of  elasticity. 

Transparent  Caoutchouc  Cement 
J'or  Glass. 

Caoutchouc 2  parts 

Mastic 6     " 

Chloroform 100     " 

The  solution  is  effected  by  allowing 
the  ingredients  to  stand  for  a  few  days 
in  a  cold  place.  The  cement,  which  is 
quite  transparent,  must  be  applied  at 
once,  as  it  becomes  viscid  in  a  very 
short  time. 

Cement  for  Rubber  Shoes  and  Boots. 
To  repair  holes  in  rubber  shoes  the  fol- 
lowing cement  is  used : 

A.  Caoutchouc     .......  10  parts. 

Chloroform 280 

B.  Caoutchouc 10 

Hosin 4 

Gum  turpentine 2 

Oil  of  turpentine 40 

The  solution  A  is  prepared  by  allow- 
ing the  caoutchouc  to  dissolve  in  the 
chloroform.  For  the  solution  B  the 
caoutchouc  is  cut  into  small  pieces  and 
melted  with  the  rosin.  The  turpentine 
is  then  added,  and  the  mass  is  finally 
dissolved  in  the  oil  of  turpentine. 
Both  solutions  are  then  mixed  together. 

To  repair  a  hole  in  a  rubber  shoe  or 
water-proof  garment  a  piece  of  close 
linen  is  dipped  in  the  cement  and  laid 
upon  the  place  to  be  repaired,  which 
has  been  previously  brushed  over  with 
the  cement.  As  soon  as  the  linen 
adheres  the  cement  is  applied  and 
smoothed.  With  some  skill  the  shoe 
can  be  repaired  so  that  it  cannot  be 
detected. 

Gutta-percha  Cements.     For  Glass. 

Gutta-percha 100  parts. 

Pluck  pitch  or  asphaltum       ...     100     " 
Oil  of  turpentine 15     " 


This  cement,  which  should  be  used 
hot,  is  well  suited  for  every  purpose, 
but  adheres  particularly  well  to  leather. 

For  Leather.  A  solution  of  gutta- 
percha  in  bisulphide  of  carbon  of  the 
consistency  of  syrup,  and  sufficiently 
diluted  with  petroleum,  does  excellent 
service.  A  thin  layer  of  the  cement  is 
applied  and  the  pieces  of  leather  are 
tightly  pressed  together. 

Cement  for  Rubber  Combs.  A.  A  very 
thick  solution  of  gutta-percha  in  bi- 
sulphide of  carbon  is  prepared. 

B.  Dissolve  sulphur  in  bisulphide  of 
carbon. 

The  parts  to  be  cemented  are  brushed 
over  with  the  solution  A  and  pressed 
together.  When  dry  the  solution  B  is 
applied. 

Elastic  Gutta-percha  and  Linseed-oil 
Cement. 

Gutta-percha 10  parts. 

Benzine 100     " 

Linseed-oil  varnish 100     " 

Dissolve  the  gutta-percha  in  the  ben- 
zine, and  when  the  solution  is  clear 
mix  it  with  the  varnish.  This  cement 
is  very  elastic,  serviceable  for  making 
tissues  water-proof  and  for  cementing 
shoe  soles  to  uppers,  as  it  does  not 
break  when  bent. 

Gutta-percha  Cement  for  Horses' 
Hoofs.  To  fill  cracks  and  fissures  in 
the  hoofs  of  horses  a  cement  is  required 
which  resists  the  action  of  water  and 
possesses  great  elasticity  combined  with 
solidity.  The  following  compound  an- 
swers all  demands : 

Gum  ammoniac       .     .     .     10  parts  by  weight. 
Purified  gutta-percha  .  20  to  25 

The  gutta-percha  is  heated  from  195°  to 
212°  F.,  and  the  powdered  gum  kneaded 
into  it  until  a  homogeneous  mass  is 
formed.  The  place  to  be  cemented 
should  be  thoroughly  cleansed.  The 
cement  is  heated  until  it  becomes  soft, 
and  the  crack  in  the  hoof  filled  with  it 
by  means  of  a  heated  knife.  It  be- 
comes hard  when  cooled  off  to  the  ordi- 
nary temperature,  and  acquires  in  a 
short  time  such  a  degree  of  solidity 
that  nails  mav  be  driven  into  it. 

Substitute  for  Caoutchouc.  Chloride 
of  sulphur  is  mixed  with  bisulphide  of 
carbon  and  naphtha,  or  any  suitable 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


volatile  solvent.  Some  fat  oil,  for  in- 
stance rape-seed  oil,  is  added  to  the 
mixture,  which  is  allowed  to  stand 
quietly  until  the  greater  part  of  the 
volatile  materials  has  evaporated.  The 
vapors  are  condensed  for  future  use. 
The  color  of  this  substitute  for  caout- 
chouc is  yci'owish-brown,  and  can  be 
colored  by  adding  suitable  pigments. 

Substitute  for  Gutta-percha.  This  is 
prepared  by  boiling  the  external  part 
of  the  bark  of  the  birch  tree  in  water 
over  an  open  fire.  A  black  fluid  sub- 
stance remains  in  the  evaporating  ves- 
sel, which,  when  exposed  to  the  air, 
becomes  hard  and  very  compact.  The 
mass  possesses  all  the  properties  of 
gutta-percha  and  may  be  used  for  the 
same  purposes. 

Composition  for  Ornaments,  Busts, 
Toys,  etc.  The  mass  consists  of  isin- 
glass or  any  other  animal  glue,  vegeta- 
ble or  beeswax  or  rosin,  and  glycerine. 
The  proportions  depend  on  the  degree 
of  hardness  the  composition  is  to  have. 
Fifty  of  glue,  35  of  wax  or  rosin,  15  of 
glycerine,  and  the  necessary  quantity 
of  a  metallic  oxide  as  a  coloring  sub- 
stance, give  a  composition  as  hard  as 
horn.  For  a  soft  composition  50  parts 
of  glue,  25  of  wax  or  rosin,  and  25  of 
glycerine  are  required.  The  glue  is 
dissolved  in  the  glycerine  by  means  of 
steam,  and  the  wax  or  rosin  added  to 
the  solution.  When  this  is  melted  and 
mixed  with  the  ingredients,  the  mineral 
color  is  added,  and  the  mass,  while  in 
a  liquid  state,  poured  into  moulds  of 
plaster  of  Paris,  wood,  or  metal.  By 
adding  30  to  35  per  cent,  of  zinc  white, 
or  another  mineral  pigment  according 
to  the  color  the  article  is  to  have,  the 
hardness  of  the  composition  can  be 
much  increased. 

Composition  for  Rollers  of  Wringers 
arnl  Wash  Machines.  This  consists  of 
a  mixture  of  sulphured  linseed  oil  or 
other  oil,  fibrous  materials  (comminuted 
linen  or  cotton  rags),  and  rosin  or  pitch. 
The  materials  are  kneaded  or  passed 
between  hot  rollers  until  all  parts  are 
intimately  mixed  together.  The  mass 
is  then  poured  around  the  spindle  of 
the  roller,  which  has  been  placed  in  a 
suitable  mould. 

A sbestos  and  Rubber  Packing.  Equal 
parts  by  weight  of  asbestos  and  caout- 
chouc are  mixed  together,  forming  an 


elastic  mass  capable  of  resisting  heat. 
As  it  contains  no  metallic  oxides  or 
foreign  substances,  it  does  not  attack 
the  piston-rods,  and  as  it  resists  even 
caustic  agents,  it  is  very  useful  in  chem- 
ical manufactories,  etc. 

Composition  for  Billiard  Balls. 
Allow  80  parts  of  Russian  glue  and  10 
of  ordinary  glue  to  swell  up  in  10  parts 
of  water.  Heat  the  mass  in  a  water 
bath  and  add  5  parts  of  heavy  spar,  4 
of  chalk,  and  1  of  boiled  linseed  oil. 
Take  out  part  of  the  mass  and  when 
sufficiently  cool  form  it  into  small 
sticks.  Dip  these  sticks  into  the  re- 
maining mass,  allow  what  adheres  to 
them  to  dry,  and  repeat  the  dipping 
and  drying  until  a  crude  ball  has  been 
formed.  When  this  has  become  quite 
dry,  which  will  require  from  3  to  4 
months,  it  is  turned  in  the  usual  man- 
ner, then  placed  for  1  hour  in  a  bath  of 
acetate  of  alumina,  dried,  and  polished 
in  the  same  manner  as  an  ivory  ball. 

Picture-frame  Composition.     Mix: 

Glue  previously  soaked  and  melted 

in  \v;iter 13  parts. 

Pulverized  litharge 4     " 

White  lead 8     " 

Plaster  of  Paris 1  part. 

Very  fine  sawdust 10  parts. 

The  mixture  is  poured  into  moulds 
consisting  of  2  parts,  which  should  be 
first  brushed  over  with  oil. 

A  Mass  for  Toys,  Vessels,  etc.,  con- 
sists of  a  mixture  of  clay  and  absorbent 
substances  such  as  infusorial  earth,  cel- 
lulose, fibrous  substances,  etc.,  stirred 
into  a  paste  with  water  and  cast  in 
plaster-of-Paris  moulds.  When  hard 
the  mass  is  taken  out  and  dipped  into 
a  solution  of  water-glass,  which  is  en- 
tirely absorbed  by  the  composition. 
The  articles  are  then  dried  at  212°  F. 
If  they  are  to  be  colored  outside  a  thin 
layer  of  colored  clay  is  first  placed  in 
the  mould  and  on  top  of  this  the  above- 
mentioned  mass ;  the  further  treatment 
being  the  same  as  above.  Dolls'  heads, 
boxes,  etc.,  are  manufactured  in  this 
manner.  By  using  metallic  moulds, 
instead  of  those  of  plaster  of  Paris,  the 
ingredient^  may  be  mixed  with  solution 
of  water-glass  before  they  are  brought 
into  the  moulds. 

Mass  for  Dolls1  Heads.  Clay  slate 
is  ground  fine  and  50  per  cent,  of  it 


CEMENTS,  PASTES,  AND  PUTTIES. 


stirred  into  a  fluid  paste  with  20  per 
cent,  of  paper  pulp  and  30  per  cent,  of 
plaster  of  Paris  and  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  water.  The  mass  is  then  cast  in  moulds. 

Marmorin.  Heat,  grind,  and  wash 
some  magnesite  and  mix  it  intimately 
with  an  equal  amount  of  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  magnesia,  1.190  specific  gravity. 
The  mass  is  cast  in  oiled  moulds.  When 
hard  it  can  be  washed  with  soapsuds. 

New  Mass  for  Hollow  Articles.  These 
articles  are  manufactured  by  bringing 
a  frame  of  the  article,  made  of  fibrous 
substance  or  paper,  into  a  mould  with  a 
composition,  and  pressing  both  together. 

The  best  composition  consists  of  32 
parts  of  solid  (oxidized)  oil,  a  like 
quantity  of  finely-ground  cork,  2  parts 
each  of  minium  and  unslaked  lime,  and 
3  of  paratfine  wax. 

Papier  Mache  from  Flour.  The 
mass  is  prepared  by  stirring  either 
wheat,  oat,  rye,  barley,  or  bean  flour 
into  a  thick  paste  with  linseed-oil  var- 
nish. It  is  then  pressed  in  moulds  or 
rolled  out  in  plates  and  dried  in  the 
usual  manner.  The  articles,  Avhen  en- 
tirely dry,  are  saturated  with  linseed 
oil,  then  treated  with  colored  lacquers, 
and  finally  polished. 

Fine  Pasteboard  Mass  for  Moulding 
Large  Figures.  Boil  4  parts  of  waste 
paper  in  water  and  mix  them  thor- 
oughly with  6  of  whiting.  The  mass 
is  then  kneaded,  rolled  out  upon  a 
board,  and  cut  in  pieces,  which  are 
pressed  into  the  separate  parts  of  the 
mould  and  then  taken  out  and  dried. 
The  pieces  are  then  joined  together 
with  the  same  mass  and  glue  water,  and  I 
when  they  are  dry  the  uneven  places 
are  smoothed  by  means  of  a  knife,  file,  i 
and  shave-grass,  and  finally  the  figure  j 
is  coated  with  a  composition  consisting 
of  French  chalk  and  decoction  of  Bra- 
zil wood,  and  when  dry  is  painted, 
gilded,  etc. 

Composition  for  Razor  Strops.  Mix 
18  parts  of  fine  paper  pulp  with  3  of 
powdered  emery  and  2  of  starch.  Fer- 
ric oxide  or  stannic  oxide  can  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  emery. 

CEMENTS,  PASTES,  AND  PUTTIES. 

To  Cement  Iron  to  Iron.     Mix  : 
Powdered  cast  iron  bore  chips  ...  60  parts. 

Sal-ammoniac 2      " 

Flowers  of  sulphur 1  part. 


and  stir  the  mixture  into  a  stiff  paste  by 
adding  water.  The  cement  must  be 
used  while  fresh. 

Mastic  Cement.    Powder: 

Slaked  lime 60  parts. 

Sand 36      " 

Litharge 3      " 

and  knead  them  to  a  stiff  mass  with  7 
to  10  parts  of  old  linseed  oil,  or  linseed- 
oil  varnish.  It  is  best  to  do  this  in  a 
mortar  with  a  pestle,  and  the  mass 
should  be  thoroughly  worked. 

Cement  for  Steam-pipes.  Rub  as  fine 
as  possible : 

Litharge 2  parts. 

Powdered  slaked  lime 1  part. 

Sand 1      " 

and  mix  the  mass  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  hot  linseed-oil  varnish  to 
form  a  stiff  paste.  This  cement  must 
be  used  while  fresh  and  warm. 

Cement  for  Glass  Retorts.     Mix : 

Iron  filings 13V£  pounds. 

Cement 2J4       " 

Plaster  of  Paris 1     pound. 

Sal-ammoniac 2%  ounces. 

Powdered  sulphur 1%       " 

Vinegar 1%  pints. 

and  stir  the  mass  into  a  paste  with  water. 
The  cemented  articles  must  not  be  ex- 
posed to  moisture. 

English  Cement  for  Porcelain.  Soak 
1  drachm  of  isinglass  in  water;  pour 
upon  this  a  sufficient  quantity  of  alcohol 
to  cover  the  isinglass,  and  allow  it  to 
dissolve,  placing  it  in  a  warm  room. 
Next  dissolve  A  drachm  of  mastic  in  1 
fluid  drachm  of  rectified  spirit  of  wine  ; 
mix  both  solutions  together,  add  | 
drachm  of  powdered  gum  ammoniac, 
and  evaporate  the  mixture  in  a  water- 
bath  until  it  has  acquired  the  requisite 
consistency.  Keep  the  cement  in  a 
glass  bottle,  and  when  it  is  to  be  used 
place  the  bottle  in  hot  water,  when  the 
cement  will  become  soft  so  that  it  can 
be  conveniently  applied  to  the  frag- 
ments of  porcelain  to  be  cemented, 
which  should  be  previously  heated. 

Water  and  Fire-proof  Cement,  avail- 
able for  Metal,  Porcelain,  and  Earthen- 
ware.  One  and  three-quarter  pints  of 
sweet  milk  are  curdled  with  the  addition 
of  some  wine  vinegar.  The  whey  is 
taken  and  the  whites  of  4  to  5  egga 
stirred  into  it.  Finely-pulverized  quick- 
lime is  added,  and  the  mass  thoroughly 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


mixed  together  with  a  spatula.  This 
cement  will  stand  fire  and  water  if  it  is 
first  dried  in  the  air  and  then  over  a 
fire. 

Cements  for  Fastening  Metal  Letters 
upon  Glass,  Marble,  Wood,  etc.    No.  1. 


Copal  varnish 15  parts. 

Linseed-oil  varnish 5     " 

Oil  of  turpentine 5      " 

Glue 5     " 

The  glue  is  dissolved  by  placing  the 
mixture  in  a  water-bath.  When  the 
solution  is  complete,  10  parts  of  slaked 
lime  are  added  to  it. 

No.  2.  Fifteen  parts  of  a  varnish  pre- 
pared from  sandaraeh  and  white  pine 
rosin  are  mixed  with  5  parts  of  linseed 
oil  boiled  with  litharge,  and  5  parts  of 
oil  of  turpentine.  To  this  add  5  parts 
of  marine  glue,  and,  after  this  mixture 
has  been  dissolved  by  placing  it  in  a 
water-bath,  add  10  parts  of  flake  white 
and  white  lead. 

No.  3.  Mix  15  parts  of  copal  var- 
nish prepared  with  an  addition  of  rosin, 
and  5  parts  of  oil  of  turpentine,  with : 

Powdered  isinglass       .     .     .     .     .     .2  parts. 

Silted  iron  filings 5      " 

Washed  clay  or  ochre 10     " 

No.  4.  Mix  15  parts  of  copal  var- 
nish prepared  with  gum-lac,  5  of  lin- 
seed oil  boiled  with  litharge,  8  of  solu- 
tion of  caoutchouc  in  tar  oil,  7  of  tar 
oil  with  10  of  Roman  cement  and  plas- 
ter of  Paris, 

Cement  for  Fastening  Iron  A  Hides  in 
Stone.  Mix : 

Good  plaster  of  Paris 7  parts. 

Iron  filings 1  part. 

and  stir  the  mixture  into  a  paste  with 
water.  This  cement  dries  very  quickly. 

Cement  for  Stone  Troughs  and  Wooden 
Vats.  Melt : 

Rosin 2  parts. 

Yellow  wax 2      " 

in  an  iron  ladle.  Then  add  2  parts  of 
very  finely-pulverized  and  calcined 
ochre,  and  keep  the  mass  for  a  short 
time  in  a  fluid  state.  By  pouring  the 
mass  into  the  joints  and  cracks  of  the 
stone  or  wood,  it  forms  a  cement  as  hard 
us  stone. 


Cement  for  Repairing  Articles  of 
Sandstone.  Mix : 

Dry,  clean,  fine  sand 20  parts. 

Pulverized  plumbic  oxide    ....     2      " 
Pulverized  lime 1  part. 

and  form  a  thick  paste  by  adding  lin- 
seed oil  or  linseed-oil  varnish. 

Davy's  Universal  Cement.    Melt: 

Common  pitch 4  parts. 

Gutta-percha 4     " 

in  an  iron  vessel,  mix  intimately  to- 
gether, and  keep  the  resulting  cement 
either  fluid  under  water,  or  in  a  dried 
and  hard  condition. 

This  cement  holds  equally  well  upon 
wood,  stone,  glass,  porcelain,  ivory, 
leather,  parchment,  paper,  feathers, 
wool,  cotton,  linen,  etc. 

Cement  for  Joining  Leather  Driving 
Belts.  Mix  10  parts  of  bisulphide  of 
carbon  and  1  of  oil  of  turpentine,  and 
dissolve  in  it  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
gutta-percha  to  form  a  paste.  The 
pieces  of  leather  to  be  joined  are  cleansed 
from  oil  and  grease  by  laying  a  rag  up- 
on their  surfaces  and  placing  a  hot  iron 
upon  it.  Both  pieces  are  then  spread 
with  the  cement  and  subjected  to  press- 
ure until  the  cement  has  become  dry. 

Cement  for  Fastening  Rubber  upon 
Metal.  This  cement  is  prepared  by 
soaking  pulverized  shellac  in  ten  times 
its  weight  of  strong  ammonia.  The  re- 
sult will  be  a  transparent  mass  which 
becomes  fluid  in  3  to  4  weeks  without 
the  use  of  water.  This  fluid  makes  the 
rubber  soft,  but  after  the  evaporation 
of  the  ammonia  it  becomes  hard  and 
impermeable  to  gases  and  fluids. 

Cement  for  Aquaria,  etc.  Two  and 
one-quarter  pounds  each  of  litharge, 
fine  white  sand,  plaster  of  Paris,  and  1 
pound  of  boiled  linseed  oil  are  mixed 
to  a  paste  and  drying  oil  added.  This 
cement  can  only  be  used  after  it  has 
stood  for  a  few  hours,  but  then  does  ex- 
cellent service  for  salt  and  fresh-water 
aquaria,  reservoirs,  etc.  It  becomes 
very  hard,  but  acquires  its  greatest  de- 
gree of  hardness  when  in  salt  water. 

Cement  for  Repairing  Defective 
Places  in  Castings.  One  part  of  black 
pitch  and  1  of  rosin  are  melted  in  a 
crucible  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
fine  iron  filings  added  to  form  a  stiff 
mass,  and  allowed  to  become  cold. 
The  defective  place  is  heated,  a  piece 


CEMENTS,  PASTES,  AND  PUTTIES. 


65 


of  t'ne  cement  laid  upon  it  and  pressed 
into  the  defective  place  with  a  hot 
iron. 

Cement  for  Leather.  Ordinary  glue 
and  isinglass  are  soaked  for  10  hours  in 
sufficient  water  to  cover  them.  It  is 
then  brought  to  the  boiling  point  and 
pure  tannin  added  until  the  solution  be- 
comes sticky  and  has  the  appearance 
of  white  of  egg. 

(.rli/cerine  Cement.  This  cement  is 
prepared  by  moistening  litharge  with 
glycerine.  It  forms  a  cement  w;  ieli  be- 
comes very  hard  in  10  minutes.  The 
cement  is  well  suited  for  vessels  con- 
taining benzole,  ether,  oils,  acids,  etc., 
and  also  for  iron  and  stone. 

Cement  for  Petroleum  Lamps. 

Rosin 12  parts. 

Strong  lye 1C     " 

Water 20     " 

Plaster  of  Paris 20     " 

The  rosin  is  boiled  with  the  lye  until 
it  is  entirely  dissolved  and,  when  cold, 
forms  a  tenacious  solid  mass.  This  is 
sufficiently  diluted  by  adding  the  water, 
and  the  plaster  of  Paris  is  then  can> 
fully  worked  in.  This  cement  is  in- 
soluble in  petroleum,  and  can  be  recom- 
mended for  fastening  the  metal  pares 
upon  glass  lamps. 

Best  Cement  for  Tortoise  Shell. 

Mastic 30  pails. 

Shellac 90     " 

Turpentine 6     " 

Spirit  of  wine  90  per  cent,  strong    .  350     " 

Cement  for  Ivory  and  Bone,  White 
wax,  rosin,  and  oil  of  turpentine  are 
melted  together  at  a  moderate  heat  so 
as  to  form  a  thick  fluid  mass.  If  the 
cement  is  to  be  colored,  finely-powdered 
coloring  substances,  as  red  lead,  ultra- 
marine, etc.,  are  added  to  the  mass. 

Casein c  Cements.  Caseine  can  be  r.sed 
for  preparing  a  number  of  cements.  It 
is  best  i>  prepare  an  entirely  pure 
case i ne,  although  that  found  in  old 
cheese  may  be  used;  but  this  always 
contains  some  fat,  salt,  and  free  acids, 
which  exert  an  injurious  effect  upon 
the  hardness  and  solidity  of  the  cement. 
Pure  caseine  is  prepared  in  the  follow- 
ing manner:  Milk,  carefully  skimmed 
so  that  not  a  trace  of  cream  'remains,  is 
allowed  to  curdle  by  letting  it  stand  in 
5 


a  warm  place.  The  curdled  milk  is 
then  poured  through  a  paper  filter,  and 
the  caseine  remaining  upon  the  filter  is 
washed  with  rain  water  until  the  latter 
shows  no  trace  of  free  acid.  To  remove 
the  last  traces  of  fat  the  caseine  is  tied 
in  a  cloth  and  boiled  in  water.  It  is 
then  spread  out  upon  blotting-pa;>er 
and  allowed  to  dry  in  a  moderately 
warm  place,  when  it  will  shrivel  u|»  to 
a  horn-like  mass.  This  pure  caseins, 
when  properly  dried,  can  be  kept  for  a 
long  time  without  injury. 

Cn seine  Cement  for  Metals.     Mix  : 

Washed  quartz  sund 10  parts. 

('asriiic 8      " 

Slaked  lime 10    " 

Caseine  Cement  for  Meerschaum.  Dis- 
solve caseine  in  water-glass,  stir  quickly 
finely-powdered  burned  magnesia  into 
the  solution  and  use  at  once,  as  the 
cement  rapidly  becomes  hard.  By 
mixing  genuine  meerschaum  powder 
with  the  magnesia,  a  mass  closely  re- 
sembling genuine  meerschaum  is  ob- 
tained. 

Ordinary  Caseine  Cement. 

rWh-.e 12  parts. 

Slaked  lime 50     " 

Fine  sand      . 50     " 

This  cheap  cement  is  well  adapted 
for  filling  large  holes  in  freestone  and 
joints  between  building  stones. 

Best  Caseiti  e  Cemen  t.  Fresh  cheese  is 
boiled  in  water  until  it  has  been  dis- 
solved to  a  mass  which  will  draw  into 
threads  between  the  fingers.  Slaked 
lime  and  very  finely-sifted  wood  ashes 
are  then  stirred  into  the  solution.  Take : 

Cheese 100  parts. 

Wat'-r 200     " 

Slaked  lime 25     " 

Wood  ashes 2:>     " 

Chinese  Blood  Cement.  This  cement 
is  in  general  use  in  China  to  make 
wooden  and  pasteboard  vessels,  willow- 
ware,  etc.,  water-proof.  Mix : 

Slaked  lime 100  parts. 

Beaten  bullocks'  blood 75     " 

Alum 2    " 

Blood  and  Ash  Cement. 

Flaked  lime •  .     .  100  parts. 

Sifted  coal  ashes .     50     " 

Beaten  bullocks'  biood 15     " 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


This  cement  is  used  for  filling  joints 
between  bricks  and  building  stones. 

Jewellers'  Cement. 

Isinglass 100  parts. 

JIastic  varnish 50    " 

The  isinglass  is  dissolved  in  as  small 
a  quantity  of  water  as  possible,  with 
the  addition  of  some  strong  spirit  of 
wine.  The  mastic  varnish  is  prepared 
by  pouring  highly-rectified  spirit  of 
wine  and  benzine  over  finely-powdered 
mastic  and  dissolving  this  in  a^  small  a 
quantity  of  the  solvent  as  possible. 
The  two  solutions  are  then  poured  into 
a  porcelain  dish  and  intimately  worked 
together. 

Armenian  Glue.  This  preparation 
possesses  about  the  same  properties  as 
the  diamond  glue  and  is  used  for  the 
same  purposes : 


.     .     .     600  parts. 


Isinglass 

Gum  ammoniac 

Mastic    .     .     . 


The  isinglass  is  allowed  to  swell  up 
in  water  to  which  some  spirit  of  wine 
has  been  added.  The  gum  ammoniac 
and  mastic  are  dissolved  in  as  little 
spirit  of  wine  as  possible',  and  both  solu- 
tions are  then  intimately  mixed  to- 
gether. 

Cement  for  Quickly  Closing  Leaky 
Places  in  Barrels, 

Tallow 25  parts. 

Wax 20     " 

Lard 40     " 

Sifted  wood  ashes 25    " 

are  mixed  together  by  heating  and  ap- 
plied to  the  defective  place  by  means 
of  a  heated  knife  blade. 

Cement  for  Iron  Stoves. 

Wood  ashes 10  parts. 

Clay 10     " 

Burned  lime 4    " 

are  mixed  with  sufficient  water  to  form 
<a  stiff'  paste. 

To  Prepare  Liquid  Glue.  Dissolve 
'3J  ounces  of  ordinary  gelatine  in  a  mixt- 
ure of  1  pint  of  water  and  \  ounce  of 
crude  oxalic  acid,  and  keep  the  solu- 
tion 5  or  6  hours  in  a  flask  on  a  water- 
bath.  It  is  then  poured  in  a  porcelain 
dish,  diluted,  neutralized  with  calcium 


carbonate,  filtered,  and  evaporated  at  a 
moderate  temperature.  The  quantity 
of  glue  obtained  by  this  process  will  be 
about  double  the  quantity  of  the  gela- 
tine used.  It  is  very  clear,  slightly 
colored,  and  very  tenacious. 

Liquid  Glue.  Soak  the  glue  in  water, 
then  melt  it  at  a  moderate  heat,  and  add 
strong  vinegar  until  the  solution  re- 
mains a  thick  fluid  when  cool.  Add  a 
small  quantity  of  acetic  or  nitric  acid, 
which  will  keep  it  fluid  at  an  ordinary 
temperature  until  the  acid  evaporates. 

Glue  for  Labels,  etc.  Dissolve  at  a 
moderate  heat  2  parts  of  white  gelatine 
and  1  of  rock  candy  in  3  of  water.  Or, 
dissolve  at  a  moderate  heat  9  ounces  of 
ordinary  glue,  4£  ounces  of  rock  candy, 
and  1J  ounces  of  gum  Arabic  in  1  part 
of  rain,  or  distilled,  water. 

Glue  for  Fancy  Articles,  Fine  Leather 
Goods,  etc.  Compound  1  pint  of  rye 
whiskey  with  the  same  quantity  of 
water.  Add  to  this  4£  ounces  of  pow- 
dered starch,  and  stir  the  mass  into  a 
paste.  Then  dissolve  li  ounces  of  good 
glue  in  the  same  quantity  of  water,  add 
li  ounces  of  thick  turpentine,  mix 
thoroughly,  and  finally  combine  this 
mixture,  constantly  stirring,  with  the 
above  paste. 

Water-proof  Glue  for  Wooden  Uten- 
sils. Boil  for  10  minutes  a  mixture  of: 

Thick  solution  of  glue 10  parts. 

Linseed-oil  varnish 5     " 

Litharge 1  part. 

and  use  the  compound  while  hot. 

Glue  for  Ivory  and  Bone.  Colorless 
isinglass  is  boiled  with  water  until  a 
thick  solution  has  been  formed.  Add 
to  this  a  sufficient  quantity  of  washed 
zinc  white  to  form  a  liquid  of  the  con- 
sistency of  honey. 

Glue  for  Joining  Glass  to  Wood.  A 
solution  of  ordinary  glue  is  made  very 
fluid  by  bringing  it  to  the  boiling 
point.  Acid  to  it,  with  constant  stir- 
ring, a  sufficient  quantity  of  very  finely- 
sifted  wood  ashes  to  form  a  mass  of  the 
consistency  of  syrup.  It  should  be 
used  while  hot.  This  cement,  which 
resists  the  action  of  water,  adheres  re- 
markably well  and  can  also  be  used  for 
joining  stone  and  wood. 

Diamond  Glue  of  the  Best  Qualfti/. 
The  following  preparation  is  highly 
valued  by  jewellers  for  cementing  gems 
and  corals  and  can  also  be  advanta- 


CEMENTS,  PASTES,  AND  PUTTIES. 


geously    used    for    fastening    colored 
pastes  upon  white  glass.     It  can  be  ex- 
posed for  some  time  to  the  action  of 
water  without  becoming  soft.    It  ad- 1 
heres  most  tenaciously  to  glass  or  gems : 

Isinglass 8  parts. 

Gum  ammoniac 1  part. 

Galbanum 1     ' 

Spirit  of  wine 4  parts. 

The  isinglass  is  allowed  to  swell  up 
in  water  to  which  some  of  the  spirit  of 
wine  has  been  added.  The  resins  are 
dissolved  in  the  remaining  spirit  of 
wine  and  added  to  the  isinglass.  The 
cement,  before  it  is  used,  should  be 
sufficiently  heated  to  make  it  soft. 

Chromium  Glue.  Glue,  when  com- 
bined with  chromates  and  exposed  to 
the  light,  loses  its  solubility  in  water, 
and  can  therefore  be  used  for  repairing 
valuable  glass  or  porcelain  articles.  It 
is  prepared  in  the  following  manner: 
Pure  white  glue  is  dissolved  in  boiling 
water,  potassium  bichromate  is  added  to 
the  solution  and  intimately  mixed  with 
it  by  stirring,  and  immediately  poured 
into  tin  boxes,  where  it  is  allowed  to 
congeal.  The  following  proportions 
are  used : 

White  glue 5  to  10  parts. 

Water 90    " 

Potassium  bichromate .     .     .     .  1  to    2    " 

Dissolved  in  water 10    " 

When  the  glue  is  to  be  used  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  it  is  melted,  spread 
uniformly  upon  the  fractured  surfaces 
of  the  glass,  and  the  article  exposed  for 
a  few  hours  to  the  sun. 

Good  Mouth  Glue.  No.  I.  Pieces  of 
ordinary  glue  are  soaked  for  2  days.  The 
water  is  then  poured  off  and  the  glue 
melted  over  a  moderate  fire.  To  1 
pound  of  glue  add  J  pound  of  white 
sugar,  mix  thoroughly,  and  then  pour 
the  mass  into  suitable  moulds  and 
allow  it  to  stand  quietly  for  a  few  days. 
In  using  the  glue  it  is  moistened  with 
the  tongue. 

No.  II.  Soak  for  2  or  3  days  1  part 
of  isinglass,  i  of  parchment  shavings,  i 
of  rock  candy.  Then  boil  the  whole  in 
an  earthen  pot,  stirring  constantly  to 
prevent  the  mass  from  burning.  When 
it  is  boiled  down  to  about  one-half  the 
quantity,  strain  the  fluid  through  a 
coarse  cloth,  and  when  about  half  cold 


pour  a  thin  layer  of  it  upon  a  stone 
slab. 

Excellent  Mouth  Glue.  Isinglass,  to 
which  some  sugar  has  been  added,  is 
boiled  until  it  forms  a  yellow  trans- 
parent mass.  This  glue  may  also  be 
used  for  joining  torn  pieces  of  paper, 

Lime  Putty  for  Wood. 

Powdered  slaked  lime 1  part, 

Rye  flour 2  parts, 

Linseed-oil  varnish 1  part, 

and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  umber  to 
color  it. 


French  Putty  for  Wood. 

Gum  Arabic 1  part. 

Water 2  parts. 

Potato  starch 3  to  5     " 


Powdered  Wood  and  Oil  Putty.  Very- 
fine  sawdust  is  formed  into  a  dough  by 
moistening  it  with  linseed-oil  varnish 
and  continued  kneading.  This  very 
plastic  mass  forms  an  excellent  putty. 

Powdered  Wood  and  Glue  Putty. 

Water 20  parts. 

Glue 1  part. 

Finest  sawdust  as  much  as  may  be  required. 

The  glue  is  first  entirely  dissolved  by 
boiling  it  in  the  water,  and  the  sawdust 
is  then  gradually  stirred  in. 


Putty  for  Floors  of  Soft  Wood. 
No.  I.    For   Floors  which   are   to 


be 


For   Floors  which   are 
Scrubbed. 

Caseine 1  pail. 

Water 7  parts. 

Spirit  of  ammonia 3£  part. 

Burned  lime A     " 

No.  II. 

Glue ..2  parts. 

Water 14     " 

Cement 7     " 

Sawdust 3  to  4    " 

Both  putties  should  be  prepared  im- 
mediately before  they  are  to  be  used. 

Putty  for  Floors  which  are  to  be 
Lacquered. 

Glue 2  parts- 

Water 14     " 

Plaster  of  Paris 4     " 

Litharge 2  to  4    " 


68 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Paste  for  Wall  Paper. 

Flour  paste 100  parts. 

Alum  water  .     .     .     .  - 3     " 

Solution  of  dextrine 5     " 

The  object  of  adding  solution  of  dex- 
trine is  to  give  more  adhesive  power  to 
the  paste ;  that  of  alum  water  to  pre- 
vent the  paste  from  spoiling  and  the 
wall  paper  from  becoming  mouldy  in 
case  the  wall  is  not  entirely  dry. 

Paste  for  Microscopic  Objects.  A 
thick  fluid  paste  which  dries  quickly, 
does  not  crack,  and  adheres  tenaciously 
to  the  glass,  is  required  for  fastening 
the  glasses  covering  microscopic  objects. 
A  paste  or  cement  prepared  from  solu- 
tions of  dammar  resin,  asphaltum,  or 
caoutchouc,  or  a  mixture  of  the  last  two 
in  very  volatile  solvents,  is  best  adapted 
for  the  purpose.  After  the  object  to  be 
preserved  has  been  placed  in  the  right 
position  upon  the  glass,  a  ring  of  the 
paste  is  formed  around  it  and  the  cover 
pressed  down  and  held  there  until  the 
paste  has  become  hard. 

Benzine,  petroleum,  or  bisulphide  of 
carbon  may  be  used  as  a  solvent  for  dam- 
mar resin,  caoutchouc,  or  asphaltum. 
If  the  enclosure  is  to  contain  a  fluid  be- 
sides the  microscopic  preparation  it  is 
best  to  prepare  the  paste  from  a  mix- 
ture of  caoutchouc  and  asphaltum,  as 
this  resists  fluids  far  better  than  a  solu- 
tion of  dammar  resin. 

The  paste  prepared  from  dammar 
resin  has  a  yellow  color;  that  from 
caoutchouc  and  asphaltum  is  black. 
A  white  paste  is  made  by  rubbing  Can- 
ada balsam  with  zinc  white,  and  adding 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  benzine  to  give 
a  syrupy  consistency  to  the  mass. 

Glycerine  Glue  for  Enclosing  Micro- 
scopic Preparations.  One  part  by 
weight  of  white  glue  (gelatine)  is  placed 
in  a  porcelain  vessel,  6  parts  by  weight 
of  water  are  poured  over  it,  and  it  is 
allowed  to  swell  up  for  24  hours.  It  is 
then  heated  at  175°  to  200°  F.  until  it 
is  entirely  dissolved.  Seven  parts  of 
concentrated,  colorless  glycerine  are 
added  to  the  solution  and  intimately 
mixed  with  it  by  stirring.  The  mixt- 
ure is  then  heated  for  10  to  15  minutes  and 
liltered,  while  warm,  through  cotton. 

Paste  for  Postage  /Stamps,  etc. 

Dextrine '.2  parts. 

Acetic  acid 1  part. 

Water 5  parts. 

Aleohol 1  part. 


The  foregoing  mixture  is  used  for 
United  States  postage  stamps. 

Sugar  and  Lime  Paste. 

White  cane  sugar 12  parts. 

Water       . 3G     " 

Slaked  lime 3     " 

The  sugar  is  dissolved  in  water,  the 
solution  heated  to  the  boiling  point,  the 
lime  poured  in,  and  the  fluid  allowed 
to  stand  for  several  days  in  a  covered 
vessel  and  stirred  once  in  a  while. 
When  it  has  settled  the  thick  fluid  is 
poured  off  from  the  excess  of  lime. 

The  solution  obtained  in  this  manner 
has  all  the  properties  of  a  solution  of 
gum  Arabic,  possesses  great  adhesive 
power,  and  dries  to  a  lustrous  mass. 

fluid  Paste.  I.  Ten  pounds  of  po- 
tato starch  are  placed  in  a  porcelain 
vessel  and  5  quarts  of  water  and  i 
pound  of  nitric  acid  poured  over  it. 
The  mixture  is  allowed  to  stand  for  24 
hours  in  a  warm  place,  being  several 
times  stirred,  and  is  then  boiled  until  it 
becomes  thickly  fluid  and  very  trans- 
parent. If  necessary  it  is  diluted  with 
water  and  filtered  through  a  close  cloth. 

II.  Dissolve  10  pounds  of  gum  Arabic 
and  2  pounds  of  sugar  in  1  gallon  of 
water;  add  If  ounces  of  nitric  acid,  heat 
to  the  boiling  point  and  mix  both  fluids 
I.  and  II.  The  resulting  paste  is  liquid, 
does  not  mould,  and  dries  to  a  trans- 
parent layer  upon  paper.  It  is  espe- 
cially well  adapted  for  flaps  of  envel- 
opes, flue  bookbinders'  work,  etc. 


Glue  . 
Sugar 


Dry  Pocket  Paste. 


6     parts- 


The  glue  is  dissolved  by  boiling  in 
water,  the  sugar  added  to  the  hot  so- 
lution, and  the  mass  evaporated  until  a 
test  sample  congeals  on  becoming  cold. 
The  hard  mass  dissolves  quickly  in 
lukewarm  water,  and  furnishes  a  paste 
adapted  especially  for  paper. 

Good  Cement  for  Filling  Teeth.  The 
following  preparations  furnish  cements 
for  filling  teeth : 

I.  II. 

Parts.  Tarts. 

Z5nc  oxide  .     .     .  200    Zinc  oxido     .     .  500 
Silica      ....      8    Powdered  amber      1.5 
Borax     ....      4    Yellow  ochre    .      1.5 
Powdered  glass    .      5     Borax  ....     10 
Powdered  glass .  100 


CEMENTS,  PASTES,  AND  PUTTIES. 


in.  iv. 

Parts.  Parts. 

Zinc  oxide    .     .  500  Zinc  oxide    .     .  500 

Powdered  pyro-  Powdered  pyro- 

lusite     ...       1.5  lusite     ...       1.5 

Yellow  ochre     .      3.5  Yellow  ochre    .      4 

Powdered  glass .  100  Powdered  glass  .  100 

Borax  ....     10  Borax  ....     10 

The  ingredients  are  well  mixed,  sifted 
through  a  hair  sieve,  and  preserved  in 
well-corked  bottles. 

When  any  of  the  cement  is  to  be  used, 
it  is  mixed  with  concentrated  solution 
of  zinc  chloride  to  form  a  paste,  and 
the  hollow  tooth  filled  with  it.  In  ten 
minutes  the  paste  becomes  hard,  and 
remains  unchanged  for  years. 

Nos.  I.  and  II.  furnish  the  lightest 
colored  cement,  and  No.  IV.  the  dark- 
est. 

Cement  for  Injured  Trees.    Mix  : 

Sifted  wood-ashes 5  parts, 

Yellow  ochre 10     " 

Ordinary  white  lead 50      " 

Venetian  turpentine 10      " 

with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  linseed  oil 
to  ,'^ive  to  the  mixture  the  consistency 
of  an  electuary.  It  should  be  applied 
twice  to  the  injured  part  of  the  tree. 

German  Tree  Wax.    Mix: 

Finely  powdered  lime 3  parts. 

Finely  powdered  charcoal     .     .     .     .     1  part, 

with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  linseed  oil 
to  form  a  homogeneous  dough.  It  should 
be  kept  in  a  pot  hermetically  closed. 
It  is  applied  to  the  injured  parts  of  the 
tree  by  means  of  a  large  brush. 
Grafting  Wax. 

Pine  rosin 50  parts. 

Tallow 10      " 

Oil  of  turpentine 5      " 

Spirit  of  wine 5      " 

The  resin  is  melted  in  an  iron  vessel, 
the  turpentine  added,  next  the  tallow, 
and  finally  the  spirit  of  wine,  and  the 
ingredients  are  thoroughly  stirred  to- 
gether. 

Durable  Paste.  Four  parts  by  weight 
>  of  glue  are  allowed  to  soften  in  15  parts 
of  cold  water  for  some  hours,  and  then 
moderately  heated  until  the  solution 
becomes  quite  clear.  Sixty-five  parts 
of  water  are  now  added,  Avith  constant 
stirring.  In  another  vessel  30  parts  of 
gtarch  paste  are  stirred  in  20  of  cold 


water,  so  that  a  thin  milky  fluid  is  ob- 
tained without  lumps.  Into  this  the 
boiling  solution  of  glue  is  poured,  with 
constant  stirring,  and  the  whole  kept  at 
the  boiling  temperature.  After  cooling, 
10  drops  of  carbolic  acid  are  added  to 
the  paste.  This  paste  is  of  extraordi- 
nary adhesive  power,  and  may  be  used 
for  leather,  paper,  or  card-board  with 
great  success.  It  must  be  preserved  in 
closed  bottles  to  prevent  evaporation 
of  the  water,  and  will  in  this  way  keep 
good  for  years. 

Paste  for  Fixing  Printed  Labels  on 
Machines.  Labels  are  often  required 
to  be  affixed  to  parts  of  machines ;  but 
the  paste,  etc.,  used  for  this  purpose 
often  becomes  damp,  and  the  label  falls 
off.  A  paste  to  resist  damp  is  made  as 
follows :  Prepare  a  paste  of  good  rye 
flour  and  glue,  to  which  linseed  oil 
varnish  and  turpentine  have  been  added 
in  the  proportion  of  i  ounce  ©f  each  to 
the  pound. 

Safety  Paste  for  Post-Office  Packages. 
The  postal  ^  wrappers  and  envelopes 
in  common  'use  can  be  easily  opened 
by  loosening  the  gum  with  mois- 
ture. Postage  stamps  can,  in  the 
same  way,  be  dishonestly  detached. 
The  following  compositions  will  meet 
this  evil :  Two  adhesive  compounds  are 
used — one  is  applied  to  the  flap  of  the 
envelope,  the  other  to  the  part  against 
which  it  is  pressed,  or  the  first  to  the 
stamp,  and  the  other  to  the  place  on  the 
envelope  where  it  is  to  be  affixed  : 

I.  Upon  the  Letter. 

Chromic  acid 2.5  parts. 

Caustic  ammonia 15        " 

Water .15         " 

Sulphuric  acid ]4  part. 

rnpro-ammonium  solution  ...  30  "parts. 
Fine  white  paper 4  " 

II.  Upon  the  Flap  or  Stamp.  Dis- 
solve isinglass  or  glue  in  a  mix- 
ture of  7  parts  of  water  and  1  of  acetic 
acid. 

The  chromic  acid  forms  with  glue  a 
combination  insoluble  in  water.  When 
the  parts  of  the  wrapper,  envelope,  etc., 
are  fastened  together,  the  union  is  so 
firm  as  to  resist  all  loosening  influences, 
acids,  alkalies,  hot  or  cold  water,  or 
steam.  The  wrapper  can  only  be  opened, 
by  tearing  or  cutting. 


70 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


CHEMICAL  AND  TECHNO-CHEMICAL 
EXPEDIENTS,  PEEPARATIONS. 

Johnson's  Process  and  Apparatus  for 
Manufacturing  Potassium  Ferrocyan- 
ide.  Potassium  carbonate  65  parts, 
wood  charcoal,  or  coke,  115  parts, 
water  65  parts,  are  heated  until  the 
coal  is  entirely  dry.  It  now  contains 
in  its  pores  the  decomposed  potassium 
carbonate,  which,  together  with  5  parts 
of  iron  filings,  are  placed  in  cylindrical 
cast-iron  retorts.  Fig.  5  represents  the 
vertical  section  of  the  furnace  and  re- 
torts, and  Fig.  6  the  horizontal  section 
in  the  direction  of  1  .  .  2.  In 


Fig.  6. 

Johnson's  Apparatus  for  Manufacturing 
Potassium  Ferrocyauide, 

Fig.  5  a  b  are  the    retorts    standing 
alongside  each  other  in  the  furnace  x. 


They  are  connected  by  the  pipe  c,  which 
passes  from  the  upper  part  of  the  retort 
a  to  the  lower  part  of  6.  The  mass  in 
the  retorts  is  heated  to  a  white  heat  to 
expel  all  moisture;  aminoiiiacal  gas  is 
then  passed  through  it.  This  is  pro- 
duced by  heating  equal  parts  of  am- 
monium sulphate  and  burned  lime  in 
the  cast-iron  retort  d.  As  less  heat  is 
required  for  developing  the  gas,  the  re- 
tort d  is  provided  with  a  special  fire- 
place g,  while  the  other  two  retorts  are 
heated  from  e.  The  retort  d  is  separated 
by  a  brick  wall  from  a  and  b.  h  is  the 
chimney  for  both  fire-places.  The  am- 
moniacal  gas  passes  from  the  retort  d 
through  the  pipe  /  into  the  lower  part 
of  the  retort  b,  and  the  part  not  fixed 
here  escapes  through  m  into  the  chim- 
ney. When  the  mass  in  d  ceases  to 
generate  gas,  the  residue  is  removed 
through  s,  falls  into  the  wagon  p,  and 
is  carted  away.  The  retort  d  is  then 
charged  anew.  The  retorts  a  and  b  are 
emptied  in  the  same  manner,  after  the 
gas  has  sufficiently  acted  upon  the  mass. 
This  falls  into  sheet-iron  boxes  standing 
upon  the  wagon  q,  which,  like  the  wagon 
p,  runs  upon  rails.  The  retorts  are 
opened  and  shut  by  the  valves  s  and  t. 
The  mass  taken  from  the  retorts  a  and 
b  is  treated  with  water  in  the  usual 
manner,  and  lixiviated,  and  the  potas- 
sium ferrocyanide  allowed  to  crystallize 
from  the  fluid.  The  grate  bars  in  the 
retorts  a  and  b  must  be  so  arranged  that 
they  can  be  easily  removed.  By  omit- 
ting the  iron,  potassium  cyanide  can 
also  be  prepared  with  this  apparatus. 

Phosphorescent  (Illuminating)  Pow- 
der. Mix  100  parts  each  of  calcium 
carbonate  and  phosphate  (obtained  by 
burning  shells,  especially  those  of 
tridama  and  sepia),  add  unslaked  lime 
100  parts,  calcined  salt  25  parts,  and  25 
to  50  per  cent,  of  the  entire  mass  of 
sulphur.  This  powder  illuminates 
barometers,  compasses,  etc.,  and  be- 
comes especially  phosphorescent  when 
acted  upon  by  an  electric  current. 
[The  well-known  "  luminous  paint "  is 
composed  of  substantially  the  same  ma- 
terials. It  remains  faintly  luminous 
for  some  time  after  being  exposed  to  the 
light,  and  is  used  for  match-safes,  etc. 
(W.)] 

To  Thaw  Frozen  Ground.  If  there 
is  snow  on  the  ground,  place  alternate 


CHEMICAL  AND  TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EXPEDIENTS,  ETC.      71 


layers  of  unslaked  lime  and  snow  over 
the  spot  to  be  thawed.  Slaking  of  the 
lime  generates  heat,  and  in  a  few  hours 
will  soften  the  ground  so  that  it  can 
easily  be  dug  up  even  at  a  temperature 
of  zero  F. 

Artificial  Sandstone  for  Filtering. 
Mix: 

PARTS. 


Clay 

I. 

.  10 

II. 

10 

III. 
15 

Chalk      .... 

.     .    I 

1 

Glass-sand,  coarse 
fine   . 
Flint 

.     .  55 

25 
30 

65 
5 

The  mixture  is  kneaded  with  water, 
shaped  into  the  desired  form  and 
strongly  burned. 


mus,  which  is  nearly  insoluble  in  water 
free  from  alkali.  In  the  usual  manner 
of  preparing  tincture  of  litmus,  the 
substances  passing  into  the  filter  remain 
in  it,  and  this  frequently  injures  the 
sharpness  of  the  reaction. 

When  a  solution  is  to  be  prepared 
from  the  powder  obtained  in  the  above 
manner,  place  the  necessary  quantity 
of  it  upon  a  filter,  pour  hot  water  and  a 
few  drops  of  ammonia  upon  it,  and 
wash  out  until  the  sand  is  exhausted, 
which  can  be  accomplished  in  a  few 
minutes.  The  filtrate  is  then  acidulated 
with  a  few  drops  of  sulphuric  acid,  and 
again  neutralized. 

New  Method  of  Extracting  Tannin. 
With  this  new  apparatus  the  lixiviation 


Fig.  7. 


To  Prepare  Tincture  of  Litmus.  A 
quantity  of  commercial  litmus  is  pow- 
dered as  fine  as  possible  and  extracted 
with  cold  water  until  exhaustion  just 
commences;  fine  sand  is  then  added 
and  the  solution  evaporated.  During 
evaporation  a  sufficient  quantity  of  hy- 
drochloric acid  is  added,  that  the  fluid, 
after  the  evaporation  of  the  carbonic 
acid,  may  have  a  deep  *ed  color.  The 
brown-red  and  perfectly  dry  powder  ob- 
tained in  this  manner  is  rubbed  as  fine 
as  possible,  washed  upon  large,  smooth 
filters,  first  with  hot  and  then  with  cold 
water,  and  the  residue  dried  on  the  water- 
bath.  This  contains,  precipitated  upon 
the  sand,  the  actual  constituent  of  lit- 


of  the  materials  containing  tannin  is 
carried  on  systematically.  The  first  vat 
A  (Fig.  7)  of  a  battery  of  five  lixiviat- 
ing vessels  is  filled  with  the  wood,  the 
alkaline  sulphite  (1  of  the  latter  to 
250  of  the  former),  and  water.  This  is 
boiled  by  steam  and  the  fluid  allowed 
to  pass  through  the  pipe  a  into  the 
reservoir  M.  From  here  it  is  brought 
by  the  pump  P  into  the  vat  N,  and 
then  drawn  oflf  into  the  reservoirs  R 
and  R'.  The  contents  of  the  vat  A  are 
once  more  lixiviated,  and  the  entire 
process  is  repeated.  The  third  time  the 
fluid  from  A  through  N  does  not  pass 
into  R,  but  into  the  vat  B,  which  has 
in  the  meanwhile  been  filled  with  fresh 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


material.  The  lixiviating  water  trav- 
erses the  same  course  as  before  for  the 
fourth  time.  The  same  process  is  gone 
through  with  the  vats  C,  D,  and  E,  so 
that  every  vat  participates  in  two  opera- 
tion. In  the  vats  E  and  11'  the  decoc- 
tion is  slightly  acidulated  with  sul- 
phuric acid.  From  here  it  is  brought 
into  the  clarifying  vat  II.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  cover  is  lowered  to  about 
100°  F.  by  cold  water  passing  through 
the  coil  pipe  S.  Albumen  (blood)  is 
then  added,  which  is  coagulated  by 
steam  passing  through  the  pipe  S'. 
The  precipitate  settles  and  the  fluid 
passes  through  the  perforated  float  F, 
and  the  filter  /  filled  with  lixiviated 
wood-shavings,  into  the  cistern  X. 

The  solution  of  tannin  obtained  in 
this  manner  shows  2°  B.  It  can  be 
used  for  tanning  without  further  prep- 
aration. For  transportatioji  the  ex- 
tract is  still  further  concentrated. 

Process  and  Apparatus  for  Purifying 
Water  itrith  a  Mixture  of  Caustic  Mag- 
nesia or  Carbonate  of  Magnesia  and 
Sawdust.  The  purifying  battery  con- 
sists of  several"  cylinders  containing 
boxes  e  (Fig.  8)  with  perforated  bottoms. 


Fig.  8. 

Upon  these  are  placed  an  intimate 
mixture  of  equal  parts  of  magnesia  and 
sawdust.  The  water  to  be  purified  enters 
through  the  cock  »;,  the  cataract  w,  and 
the  cock  h  from  below  into  the  first 
cylinder.  From  here  it  is  convoyed 
through  the  pipe  r  into  the  second 


cylinder  and  so  on.  The  finely  pow- 
dered magnesia  absorbs  the  carbonic 
acid  of  the  water,  and,  in  consequence, 
precipitates  the  calcium  carbonate  of  the 
water  in  crystalline  form  upon  the  mass. 
From  the  last  cylinder  the  purified 
water  reaches  the  discharge  pipe.  The 
apparatus  works  continuously. 

Caustic  Potash.  Take  1  part  of  po- 
tassium carbonate  and  4  of  water,  add  1 
part  of  fresh-slaked  powdered  lime, 
boil  for  a  few  minutes  and  add  gradually 
6  parts  of  water. 

Caustic  Soda,  (Soda  Lye).  Fill  a  vat 
of  a  capacity  of  555  gallons  half-full 
of  water,  r.nd  bring  this  to  the  boiling 
point  by  introducing  steam.  Dissolve 
in  this  120  pounds  of  the  best  calcined 
soda.  Have  ready  165  pounds  of 
freshly  burned  lime.  Add  this  gradu- 
ally to  the  soda  lye,  and  as  soon  as  one 
portion  is  dissolved  add  another.  As  a 
strong  effervescence  takes  place,  water 
must  be  kept  ready  to  prevent  the 
fluid  from  running  over.  When  all  the 
soda  has  been  added  the  boiling  is  con- 
tinued until  everything  has  been  dis- 
solved. The  clear  liquor,  when  the  lye 
has  settled,  is  brought  into  an  iron 
boiler  at  least  half  as  large  as  the  vat, 
and  heated  over  a  fire.  Water  is 
poured  upon  the  residue  rtf  soda  and 
lime  in  the  vat,  steam  introduced  and 
it  is  boiled  once  more.  The  clear 
liquor  is  added  to  that  in  the  boiler. 
Water  is  again  poured  upon  the  sedi- 
ment in  the  vat  in  order  to  lixiviate  it 
entirely,  and  this  liquor  also  added  to 
that  in  the  boiler.  This  liquor  is  then 
evaporated  until  the  desired  degree, 
30°  to  35°  B.,  has  been  obtained. 

To  Prepare  Pure  Chlorine  Gas. 
Put  1  part  by  weight  of  powdered  potas- 
sium bichromate  in  a  retort  or  matrass, 
compound  it  with  6  parts  by  weight  of 
hydrochloric  acid,  and  heat  gently  over 
a  spirit  lamp  until  a  vigorous  reaction 
takes  place.  The  chlorine  gas  will 
now  develop  itself  continually  and 
quickly  without  the  necessity  of  con- 
tinuing to  heat  the  mixture. 

Chloride  of  Zinc.  Heat  in  a  glass 
vessel  6  ounces  of  hydrochloric  acid, 
and  compound  this  with  2J  ounces  of 
carbonate  of  zinc.  The  fluid,  when 
cold,  is  filtered  through  powdered  glass, 
and  finally  evaporated  to  dryness  over 
a  moderate  fire,  with  constant  stirring, 


CHEMICAL  AND  TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EXPEDIENTS,  ETC.      73 


The  mass,  while  still  warm,  is  powdered, 
and  placed  immediately  in  heated  ves- 
sels, which  should  be  tightly  closed. 
By  this  process  a  white  powder  is  ob- 
tained which  deliquesces  easily  on  ex- 
posure to  the  air. 

Chloride  of  Gold.  This  is  prepared 
by  dissolving  small  pieces  of  gold  free 
from  copper  in  aqua  regia  (formed  of  2 
parts  of  pure  hydrochloric  acid  and  1 
part  of  pure  nitric  acid)  until,  even 
when  the  acid  is  boiling,  no  more  gold 
is  dissolved.  As  some  gold  always  re- 
mains undissolved,  the  solution  is 
filtered  from  the  residue,  and  gradually 
evaporated  to  dryness,  in  order  to  ex- 
pel the  excess  of  acid,  The  residue  is 
dissolved  in  distilled  water,  and  the 
solution  of  gold  obtained  in  this  man- 
ner kept  for  future  use. 

To  Prepare  Pure  Oxalic  Acid.  Pot- 
ash lye  of  36°  Baume  is  brought  to  the 
boiling  point  in  a  strmg  iron  boiler, 
and  sawdust  of  pine  wood  added  until 
the  mass  becomes  thick.  By  continu- 
ing the  heating,  and  after  the  water  has 
evaporated,  the  mass,  while  being  con- 
stantly stirred,  becomes  again  thiniy 
fluid,  homogeneous,  and  assumes  a  tur- 
meric-yellow color.  The  heat  is  kept 
up  for  2  to  2V  hours;  the  fire  is  then 
drawn,  and  the  mass  allowed  to  cool 
off.  Water  is  now  slowly  poured  into 
the  mass  while  still  hot,  until  the  so- 
lution shows  40°  Baume  when,  after 
stirring  thoroughly,  it  is  allowed  to 
cool  off.  The  yield  of  oxalate  of  po- 
tassium, which  is  entirely  insoluble  in 
the  lye  of  40°  Baume,  is  considerable. 
This  method  of  preparing  oxalate  of 
potassium  is  not  new,  though  consider- 
ably improved,  but  the  following  pro- 
cess of  preparing  pure  oxalic  acid  from 
this  oxalate  of  potassium  is  entirely 
new  : 

The  non-crystallized  oxalate  of  po- 
tassium is  washed  and  dissolved,  while 
hot,  in  a  large  quantity  of  water  and, 
after  clarifying,  is  precipitated  with  a 
solution  of  chloride  of  magnesium  or  a 
solution  of  sulphate  of  magnesia.  The 
resulting  magnesium  oxalate  is  thor- 
oughly washed,  heated  in  a  wooden  vat 
by  introducing  steam,  and  concentrated 
hydrochloric  acid  added  until  it  is  com- 
pletely dissolved.  The  clarified  so- 
lution is  drawn  hot  into  a  clay  vessel, 
and,  when  cold,  the  oxalic  acid  separates 


in  fine  white  crystals.  These  should 
be  dried  by  placing  between  the  ibid.: 
of  absorbent  paper. 

To  Prepare  Purified  Oleic  Acid. 
Dissolve  t»U  parts  of  oil-soap  in  240 
parts  of  water,  compound  the  solution 
with  10  parts  of  sulphuric  acid,  let  it 
come  to  a  boil,  wash  the  oleic  acid  with 
60  parts  of  hot  water,  and  then  intro- 
duce 4  parts  of  plumbic  oxide.  The 
lead  soap,  while  still  hot,  is  mixed  with 
60  parts  of  spirit  of  wine  of  0.52  specific 
gravity,  heated  to  1.30°  F.,  and  the 
oleate  of  lead,  after  settling,  is  decom- 
posed with  hydrochloric  acid,  when  the 
oleic  acid,  which  separates,  is  repeatedly 
washed  with  water. 

Cream  of  Tartar.  Digest  for  several 
hours  10  parts  of  purified  powdered 
tartar  with  10  of  water  and  1  of  crude 
hydrochloric  acid.  Stir  the  solution 
frequently,  and  allow  it  to  stand  for  one 
day.  Then  filter  through  linen,  and 
wash  first  with  ordinary  and  then  with 
distilled  water,  to  free  the  fluid  from 
the  hydrochloric  acid.  The  residue  is 
dried  and  forms  the  cream  of  tartar  of 
commerce. 

Lunar  Caustic.  Dissolve  6  parts  of 
pure  silver  in  14  of  nitric  acid,  evapor- 
ate the  fluid  to  dryness  at  a  moderate 
heat,  and  melt  the  residue  in  a  porce- 
lain vessel.  The  mass,  when  cooled  off, 
is  dissolved  in  water  and  evaporated  to 
dryness  with  the  addition  of  a  drop  of 
nitric  acid.  The  residue  is  melted  and 
;  run  into  moulds. 

Pure  Acetic  Acid.  Distil  5  parts  of 
I  anhydrous  fused  sodium  acetate  with 
I  6  of  pure  concentrated  sulphuric  acid. 
The  distillate  is  a  colorless  fluid,  boil- 
ing at  244.4°  F.,  and  solidifying,  on 
cooling,  into  large  transparent  plate* 
(glacial  acetic  acid). 

Sitlphocyanic  Acid  is  prepared  for 
analytical  purposes  by  precipitating  2 
parts  of  sugar  of  lead  with  1  of  am- 
monium cyanide,  washing  the  precipi- 
tate with  water,  decomposing  with  sul- 
phide of  hydrogen  and  filtering.  The 
resulting  sulphocyanic  acid  is  freed 
from  the  sulphide  of  hydrogen  by  in- 
troducing a  current  of  air,  and  then  di- 
luted to  1.01  specific  gravity. 

Molybdic  Acrid  from  Molybdenum  Df- 
sulphide.  Melt  in  a  Hessian,  crucible 
4  parts  of  potassium  nitrate,  and  add. 
gradually  1  of  molybdenum  disulphidu 


74 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


finely  powdered.  The  fused  mass  with 
the  residue  remaining  in  the  crucible  is 
dissolved  in  water,  the  solution  filtered, 
evaporated  to  one-tenth  of  its  volume 
and  allowed  to  crystallize.  Crystals 
of  potassium  nitrate  and  sulphate  form 
in  a  short  time,  which  are  removed  from 
the  fluid.  This  is  again  filtered  and 
compounded  with  pure  nitric  acid  as 
long  as  a  snow-white  precipitate  is  ob- 
tained, but  in  doing  this  any  excess  of 
nitric  acid  must  be  avoided.  This  pre- 
cipitate forms  the  molybdic  acid,  which 
is  collected  upon  a  filter  and  dried  in 
the  open  air.  Eight  parts  of  molybde- 
num disulphide  give  about  5  parts  of 
molybdic  acid. 

Potassium  Acetate.  Compound  7 
ounces  of  pure  potassium  carbonate 
with  1  pint  of  concentrated  vinegar,  or 
add  such  a  quantity  of  vinegar  as  is 
necessary  for  complete  saturation.  The 
fluid  is  filtered,  brought  into  a  porcelain 
vessel  and  evaporated  to  dryness  over  a 
steam-bath.  The  salt,  while  still  warm, 
is  placed  in  a  glass  vessel,  and  this  is 
kept  closed  hermetically. 

To  Prepare  Sulphate  of  Copper.  The 
solution  much  used  in  electrotyping  is 
prepared  by  making  a  saturated  solu- 
tion of  blue  vitriol  in  water,  and  adding 
8  to  10  per  cent,  of  sulphuric  acid  to  the 
solution.  (W.) 

Liver  of  Sulphur.  Mix  1  pound  of 
purified  sulphur  with  2  pounds  of  pure 
potassium  carbonate.  Place  the  mixt- 
ure in  a  melting  pot,  cover  it  and  ap- 
ply a  moderate  neat  until  all  effer- 
vescence ceases,  and  the  mass  is  changed 
into  a  homogeneous  fluid.  Then  pour 
it  upon  a  sheet-iron  plate  or  marble 
slab,  and,  when  cool,  pulverize  it. 
This  has  a  yellowish  green  color,  and 
can  be  completely  dissolved  in  2  parts 
of  water. 

Schiel's  Apparatus  for  Testing  the 
Percentage  oj  Nicotine  in  Tobacco.  The 
apparatus,  Fig.  9,  consists  of  two  glass 
flasks  with  narrow  necks  connected  by 
a  glass  tube  bent  at  right  angles. 

The  tobacco,  cut  in  pieces,  is  placed 
in  the  flask  A,  standing  in  a  saucer 
containing  cold  water,  and  extracted 
with  ammoniacal  ether.  By  taking 
after  a  short  time  the  flask  A  out  of  the 
cold  water,  placing  B  in  its  place,  and 
putting  A  in  a  saucer  with  warm  water, 
the  ether  vapor  which  is  formed  forces 


the  solution  of  nicotine  through  the 
tube  reaching  to  the  bottom  of  the  flask, 
and  over  the  end  of  which  is  tied  a 


Fig.  9. 

small,  fine  woollen  rag,  into  B.  By 
changing  the  position  of  the  flasks,  so 
that  A  stands  again  in  the  cold  water 
and  B  in  the  warm,  the  ether  is  redis- 
tilled into  A,  the  nicotine  remaining  in 
B.  By  repeating  this  operation  — 
changing  the  position  of  the  flasks — 
several  times  the  tobacco  will  be  ex- 
hausted, and  the  nicotine  can  be  deter- 
mined by  volumetric  analysis.  Before 
connecting  the  tube  with  the  flask  B  it 
is  advisable  to  put  some  ether  into  the 
flask  and  expel  the  air  by  the  vapor  of 
the  ether.  The  corks  are  tied  in  the 
same  manner  as  champagne  corks. 
Other  substances  may  be  also  extracted 
by  this  simple  apparatus. 

Wilson's  Process  of  Preparing  Glyc- 
erine. Palm-oil  is  placed  in  a  distilling 
apparatus  and  high- pressure  steam  of 
500°  to  600°  F.  introduced.  The  palm- 
oil  is  decomposed  and  two  layers  are 
obtained  in  the  receiver;  one  watery, 
containing  the  glycerine,  and  one  upon 
which  float  the  fatty  acids.  Care  must 
be  exercised  during  this  operation  that 
there  is  a  constant  supply  of  steam  and 
that  the  temperature  does  not  rise  too 
high,  as,  if  this  is  the  case,  acrolein  may 
be  formed.  By  concentrating,  and, 
should  the  product  not  be  entirely  col- 
orless, repeated  distillation,  the  glycer- 
ine can  be  obtained  pure  of  1.26  specific 
gravity. 

To  Restore  Faded  Manuscripts.  I. 
Prepare  a  moderately  concentrated 
watery  solution  of  tannin  (gallotannie 
acid) ;  apply  the  solution  with  a  brush, 
remove  the  excess  by  a  current  of  water, 
and  dry  the  document  at  a  temperature 
of  150°  to  165°  F.  The  writing  devel- 
oped in  this  manner  is  clear  and  very 


CLEANSING,  POLISHING,  AND  RENOVATING  AGENTS.         75- 


black,  remaining  so  after  the  lapse  of 
many  months. 

II.  Add  a  few  drops  of  ammonium 
sulphide  to  clear  water  and  apply  the 
solution  to  the  manuscript,  proceeding 
as  above.  Both  of  these  formulae  are 
based  on  the  supposition  that  the  ink 
used  on  the  faded  characters  was  an 
iron  ink,  which  will  commonly  be  the 
case.  (W.) 


CLEANSING,  POLISHING,  AND  RENO- 
VATING AGENTS. 

To  Remove  Ink  Stains  from  Wood. 
Prepare  a  mixture  of  8  ounces  of  con- 
centrated sulphuric  acid  and  If  pints 
of  water.  Scour  the  stain  thoroughly 
with  water  and  sand,  then  pour  some 
of  the  mixture  upon  it  and  rub  until  the 
stain  has  disappeared. 

To  Remove  Ink  and  Rust  Stains  from 
Clothes.  Instead  of  using  oxalic  acid, 
which  attacks  the  fibre  of  the  texture, 
prepare  a  mixture  of  2  parts  of  tartar 
and  1  of  powdered  alum.  This  does 
not  injure  the  clothes;  it  may  also  be 
used  for  removing  other  stains. 

To  Remove  Mildew,  Wine,  or  Fruit 
Stains  from  Silk  or  Linen.  Cut  1 
pound  of  ordinary  good  soap  into  shav- 
ings and  boil  them  into  a  stiff  paste 
with  rain  water.  Apply  this  to  the 
stain  and  scatter  upon  it  some  finely- 
powdered  potash.  Then  spread  the 
goods  upon  a  grass  plat  and  allow  them 
to  remain  there  for  24  hours.  When 
dry  sprinkle  some  rain  water  upon  the 
stain  and  wash,  when  the  stain  will 
have  disappeared. 

To  Remove  Tar,  Grease,  Oil,  and 
Varnish  from  Silk.  Rub  the  stain  with 
a  white  cloth  moistened  with  a  mixture 
of  equal  parts  of  oil  of  turpentine  and 
ether,  until  no  impure  matter  adheres 
to  it.  Cover  the  stain  about  the  thick- 
ness of  a  knife  blade  with  pulverized 
white  bole,  upon  which  place  blotting- 
paper  and  press  a  hot  iron.  Repeat 
until  the  stain  has  disappeared. 

To  Remove  Ink  Stains  from  Silk. 
Moisten  the  stain  with  strong  white 
wine  vinegar  and  rub  some  warm  beech- 
wood  ashes  upon  it,  and  finally  wash 
with  soap  water.  Should  'the  color 
suffer  from  the  vinegar,  mix  some  beef 
gall  and  water  and  wash  the  stain  with  it. 


To  Remove  Wax  from  Velvet.  Lay 
the  velvet  upon  a  table,  coyer  the  stain 
with  a  linen  cloth  soaked  in  soft  water 
and  rub  several  times  with  a  medium 
lot  iron.  The  stain  will  disappear. 

To  Remove  Grease  Stains  from  Paper. 
Warm  the  stained  paper,  lay  blotting- 
paper  upon  the  grease  spot,  and  press 
it  gently  with  a  hot  iron.  Or,  heat 
rectified  oil  of  turpentine  to  the  boiling 
point  and  cover  both  sides  of  the  stain 
until  it  can  no  longer  be  seen.  Then 
dip  a  small  brush  in  strong  spirit  of 
wine  and  brush  the  spot  several  times 
where  the  stain  has  been.  This  restores 
the  original  whiteness  of  the  paper, 
and,  when  ironed,  gives  it  smoothness 
and  lustre. 

Scouring  Water  for  Removing  Grease 
Stains.  Put  4  parts  by  weight  of  recti- 
fied oil  of  turpentine,  1  part  by  weight 
of  anhydrous  spirit  of  wine,  and  1  part 
by  weight  of  ether,  free  from  acid,  into 
a  clean,  dry  bottle ;  shake  thoroughly 
and  close  the  bottle  hermetically. 
When  the  water  is  to  be  used,  place 
blotting-paper  under  the  stained  places, 
moisten  a  cotton  rag  with  the  fluid,  and 
rub  until  the  stains  have  disappeared. 
Dry  the  goods  in  the  shade,  but  exposed 
to  the  air. 

One  application  will  be  sufficient  for 
fresh  stains,  but  old  spots  require  sev- 
eral. 

Le  Francois'  Scouring  Fluid,  This 
is  prepared  from  the  root  and  dried 
leaves  of  soap- wort,  of  each  64  parts,  clar- 
ified juice  of  lemons  45  parts,  spirit  of 
wine  185  parts,  soft  water  1700  parts. 
The  root  is  coarsely  powdered,  boiled  in 
the  water  for  i  of  an  hour,  the  leaves 
cut  fine  are  added,  and  the  boiling  is 
continued  for  24  hours.  It  is  then 
strained,  filtered,  and  allowed  to  be- 
come cold,  when  the  spirit  of  wine  is 
added. 

The  fluid  is  used  either  cold  or  luke- 
warm by  dipping  the  stained  place 
into  it,  rubbing  it  with  the  hand  to  a 
lather  when  silk  goods  are  to  be 
cleansed,  or  with  a  brush  for  linen  or 
cotton  goods.  Rinse  in  clean  water  and 
iron  nearly  dry. 

"  Gantein"  for  Cleansing  Gloves. 
The  preparation  sold  under  this  name 
is  prepared  in  the  following  manner: 
Dissolve  6  parts  of  soap  in  2  of  water. 
Add  4  parts  of  bleaching  liquor  aud  i 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


of  aqua  ammonia.    Rub  the  gloves  with    the  articles  with  this  and  finally  rub 

with  soft  blotting-paper. 

2.  If  the  iron  is  very  rusty  pour  a 
mixture  of  1  part  of  diluted  hydrochlo- 


this  fluid  until  they  are  clean. 

To    Cleanse    Glasses    and    Saucers. 
Moisten  the  places  to  be  cleansed  with 

concentrated    sulphuric    acid,    scatter  j  ric  acid  and  1  of  water  over  it,"  rub  with 
finely-powdered  potassium  bichromate    it,  wash, .  dry,  brush  it  with  oil,  and 

.1  tijji  i      ,          i   •          _n .±    j.  _     -|._     j* _     j* -i  '  j .     . 


upon  them,  and  let  the  vessel  stand  in 
a  warm  place  for  several  hours.  All 
vessels  to  which  organic  substances  ad- 
here can  be  cleansed  in  this  manner. 

L«»/g<'t's  Polishing  Powder  for  Gold 
Workers.  This  powder,  used  by  Bel- 
gian gold  and  silversmiths,  gives  an 
excellent  lustre  to  the  articles.  It  con- 
sists of: 


White  lead      . 

Chalk    .     .     . 

Carbunate    of 

magnesia    . 


Parts. 


Alumina  . 
Silica  .  . 
Ferric  oxide 


Parts. 


allow  it  to  lie  for  a  few  days. 

then  cleansed  in  the  manner  indicated 

in  No.  1. 

To  Cleanse  Barrels.  Bring  a  few 
pounds  of  unslaked  lime  into  the  bar- 
rel, add  water  and  close  it.  After  a 
little  while  add  more  water  and  roll 
the  barrel.  Then  rinse  out  with  clean 
water. 

Polishing  Powder  for  Glass  and 
Jfctaf.  Ferric  oxide  obtained  from  fer- 
|  rous  oxalate  by  heating  can  be  recom- 
mended as  an  excellent  polishing  agent 
for  lenses  of  optical  instruments,  metals, 
etc. 

To  Cleanse  Straw  Hats.  Straw  hats, 
not  very  yellow,  are  first  rubbed  with 

glass  vessels  from  rosins  and  ethereal  flowers  of  sulphur  and  a  cloth  moist- 
oils.  Pour  a  small  quantity  of  alcohol  ened  with  whiskey.  When  dry  they 
into  the  vessel,  swing  it  to  and  fro  to  ;  are  brushed  and  coated  on  the  wrong 
moisten  the  inner  surfaces,  put  in  the  side  with  gum  water, 
animal  charcoal,  add  water,  and  shake 
thoroughly. 

To  Cleanse  Manilla  Indigo. 


To   Cleanse  Glass    Vessels.    Animal 
charcoal  is  the  best  agent  for  cleansing 


Pulver- 
ize the  indigo  and  make  it  into  a  paste 
with  water,  upon  which  gradually 
pour  hydrochloric  acid  until  the  effer- 
vescence ceases.  Allow  the  mass  to 
settle,  filter,  and  wash  the  precipitate 
several  times  with  pure  or  alkaline  hot 
water ;  then  press  and  dry. 

To  Cleanse  Files.  Pour  a  few  drops 
of  benzole  upon  a  scratch  brush,  or 
upon  the  file,  and  remove  the  accumu- 
lated impurities  by  brushing. 

To  Cleanse  Paint  Brushes  front 
Dried'in  Paint.  Suspend  the  brush  in 
a  tumbler  containing  a  solution  of  1 
part  of  crystallized  sodium  carbonate  in 
3  of  water,  in  such  a  manner  that  it 
hangs  several  inches  from  the  bottom 
of  the  tumbler.  Let  it  stand  from  12  to 
24  hours  in  a  moderately  warm  place 
(140°  to  150°  P.).  The  dried  paint  will 
be  softened  so  much  that  it  can  be  I 


Very  yellow  straw  hats  are  cleansed 
by  making  a  lather  of  fine  French  snap 
upon  a  flannel  rag  moistened  with  luke- 
warm water.  This  is  applied  to  the  hat, 
and  the  latter  rubbed  with  it  until  all 
dirt  has  been  removed.  The  hat  is  then 
rinsed  off'  with  clean  water,  wiped  off 
with  a  clean  cloth,  and  sulphured, 
which  can  generally  be  done  in  a  quarter 
of  an  hour.  It  is  then  covered  with  a 
sheet  of  fine  paper  and  pressed. 

Excellent  Semiring  Soap.  Dissolve 
4J  ounces  of  Castile  soap  in  spirit  of 
wine,  add  the  yolks  of  4  eggs  and  4 
fluid  drachms  of  oil  of  turpentine. 

Scouring  Soap  for  Winecvd  Vinegar 
Stains,  Mix  2£  ounces  of  white  soap, 
1  fluid  drachm  of  oil  of  turpentine,  and 
25  grains  of  sal-ammoniac. 

Scouring  Soap  for  Cotton  and  Silk 
Goods.  Mix  1  pound  of  ordinary  soap, 
Jr  pound  of  beef-gall,  and  12  ounces 
Venetian  turpentine. 

Jj/ftck  Scouring  Soap  for  Removing 


easily  washed  out  with  soap  and  water.  I  Stains  from  Silk,  Cloth,  and  Hats.  Cut 
Brushes  which  have  become  as  hard  as  ;  ^  ounce  of  Venetian  soap  into  fine 
stone  can  be  restored  by  this  process. 

To  Cleanse  Fine  Steel  and  Iron  A  rti- 
cles  from  Rust.  1.  Mix  10  parts  of  tin 
putty,  8  of  prepared  buck's  horn,  and 


25  oi  spirit  of  wine  to  a  paste.    Cleanse  ! 


soap 

shavings,  moisten  them  with  fresh  rain 
water,  and  add  10  to  12  drops  of  oil  of 
tartar.  The  mass  is  intimately  kneaded 
together  and  formed  into  balls. 

Green   Scouring   Soap.    Knead    2$ 


CLEANSING,  POLISHING,  AND  RENOVATING  AGENTS.        77 


ounces  of  Venetian  soap  into  a  dough 
with  the  hand,  add  20  grains  of  pow- 
dered verdigris,  the  same  quantity  of 
cream  of  tartar,  and  finally  15  drops  of 
filtered  lemon  juice.  Mix  the  ingredi- 
ents intimately  together,  form  balls 
from  the  mass,  and  allow  them  to  dry 
at  a  moderate  temperature. 

The  stains  are  moistened  with  water, 
rubbed  with  the  soap-ball,  and  when 
the  spots  are  again  dry  are  washed  with 
soft  water.  The  process  must  be  re- 
peated twice  or  three  times,  and  the 
goods  rubbed  with  the  nap  with  a  linen 
cloth. 

Brown  Scouring  Soap.  Cut  2£  ounces 
of  Venetian  soap  into  shavings,  moisten 
them  with  a  little  water,  and  work  the 
mass  into  a  dough  with  the  hand.  Then 
add  20  grains  of  powdered  white  vitriol, 
the  same  quantity  of  powdered  red 
bole,  7  grains  of  lampblick,  and  10 
drops  of  spirit  of  sal-ammoniac.  Form 
the  mass  in  balls  of  the  desired  size, 
and  dry  them  at  a  moderate  heat. 

To  remove  stains  the  soap  is  used  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  foregoing. 

To  Purify  Bisulphide  of  C'-irbon. 
This  can  be  conveniently  and  quickly 
done  by  the  following  process :  Cover 
the  bisulphide  of  carbon  with  water 
and  add  gradually  small  quantities  of 
concentrated  solution  of  potassium  per- 
manganate. Shake  every  time  after 
adding  the  solution.  If  the  water  j 
standing  over  the  bisulphide  of  carbon 
retains  a  violet  color,  no  more  potassium 
permanganate  is  added.  Wash  now 
with  water  until  the  potassium  salt  has 
been  removed,  separate  the  bisulphide 
of  carbon  from  .the  water  by  decanta- 
tiou  or  other  means,  and  filter  it. 

/'  'i.<'iiitff    Powder   for    Plate-glass, 
jfi>      •-.    etc.      Calcined  magnesia    is 
moistened  with  pure  benzine,  so  as  to 
form  a  paste  sufficiently  wet,  that,  when 
pressed,   a   drop  will   exude   from   it. 
Pure  benzine  being  very  volatile   (it  j 
boils  at  177.8°  F.)  the  mixture  must  be  i 
kept  in  glass  bottles  with  ground  stop- 1 
pers.     The  articles  are  cleansed  by  tak- 
ing some  of  the  mixture  upon  raw  cot- 
ton and  rubbing. 

PnlixhiiKj    Runs  for  Metals   (called 
"Serviette  Magiqn.e").     These  consist  | 
of  calico  prepared  with  Castile  soap  and 
rotten  stone  and  dyed  with  a  solution 
of  coralline  in  alcohol. 


English  Polishing  Paste  far  Metals. 
Take  finely-powdered  rotten  stone,  sift 
it  through  muslin  or  a  hair  sieve,  and 
knead  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  soft 
soap  to  form  a  stiff  paste.  To  i  pound 
of  this  mass  add  1$  fluid  ounces  of  oil 
of  turpentine.  Put  in  boxes  or  form 
into  balls,  which  soon  become  hard. 

The  articles  to  be  polished  must  be 
entirely  free  from  grease  and  dirt. 
Moisten  some  of  the  paste  with  water, 
apply  it  to  the  metal,  and  rub  with  a 
dry  rag,  when  a  beautiful  lustre  will  be 
the  result.  This  is  well  adapted  for 
household  purposes. 

French  Polishing  for  Metals.  Mix  1 
part  of  washed  ferric  oxide  with  50 
parts  of  magnesium  carbonate.  Moisten 
a  rag  with  water  or  alcohol,  dip  it  into 
the  powder,  rub  the  articles  thoroughly, 
and  dry  them  with  soft  leather. 

Polishing  Paste  for  Metal,  Glass,  etc. 
Mix  1  part  of  olive  oil,  1  of  spirit  of  sal- 
ammoniac,  2  of  lime,  and  1  of  water  to 
a  thick  paste. 

Wabeck's  Polishing  Wax.  Melt  4 
parts  of  yellow  wax  and  1  of  rosin  ; 
stir  the  mass  vigorously,  and  when 
taken  from  the  fire  stir  in  2  parts  of  the 
best  oil  of  turpentine.  Pour  the  mass 
into  moulds.  Apply  a  little  of  it  on  a 
woollen  rag  and  rub  the  wood,  furni- 
ture, etc. 

Fine  Jewellers'  Rouge.  Saturate  a 
solution  of  sulphate  of  iron  (green 
vitriol)  with  a  solution  of  oxalic  acid. 
Filter  and  dry  the  resulting  precipitate 
of  pale-yellow  oxalate  of  iron;  place  it 
in  an  iron  dish  and  expose  it  to  a 
moderate  heat,  whereby  the  oxalic  acid 
will  be  decomposed  and  expelled,  and 
a  pure  sesquioxide  of  iron  will  be  left. 
This  is  very  fine  and  can  be  used  for 
producing  a  very  brilliant  polish  upon 
the  finest  jewellers'  work. 

To  Remove  Stains  from  Books.  A 
solution  of  oxalic  acid,  citric  acid,  or 
tartaric  acid  may  be  used  without 
danger,  as  these  acids  do  not  attack 
printing  ink,  but  will  remove  marginal 
notes  in  writing  ink,  stains,  etc. 

To  Free  Paper  from  Fatty  Substances. 
Photographic  paper  can  be  cleansed 
from  all  impurities  by  the  following 
treatment:  Dissolve  1  part  of  nitric 
acid  in  20  of  distilled  water,  pour  the 
solution  into  an  earthen  dish,  and  soak 
the  sheets  of  paper  for  1  hour  in  the 


78 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


fluid,  when  they  are  placed  in  water 
made  alkaline  with  5  per  cent,  of  am- 
monia, and  are  finally  washed  in  pure 
water  and  dried. 

To  Cleanse  Gloves  without  Wetting 
Them.  Put  the  gloves  upon  a  clean 
board,  make  a  mixture  of  dried  fuller's 
earth  and  pulverized  alum,  and  apply 
the  powder  to  both  sides  of  the  glove 
with  an  ordinary  stiff  brush.  Then 
wipe  the  powder  off,  cover  the  glove 
with  dry  bran  and  brush  this  off.  The 

gloves,  if  not  very  badly  soiled,  will, 
y  this  process,  become  entirely  clean. 
•  Should  there  be  grease  stains,  remove 
them  with  crumbs  of  toasted  bread  and 
powdered  animal  charcoal,  and  then 
rub  the  glove  with  a  clean  woollen  rag 
dipped  into  the  powder  of  fuller's  earth 
and  alum. 

To  Cleanse  Tea  and  Coffee  Trays. 
Do  not  pour  hot  water  upon  them, 
especially  if  they  are  lacquered,  but 
wipe  them  with  a  sponge  dipped  into 
tepid  water,  and  then  rub  with  a  cloth. 
Should  they  have  a  smeary  appearance 
dust  a  little  flour  over  them,  and  then 
rub  them  with  a  dry  cloth. 

To  Cleanse  Marble  Jlusts.  First 
free  them  from  all  dust,  and  then 
wash  them  with  very  weak  hydro- 
chloric acid.  Soap  injures  the  color  of 
the  marble. 

To  Cleanse  Alabaster.  Rub  the  ala- 
baster carefully  with  shave-grass,  and 
then  with  Venetian  soap  and  chalk, 
stirred  into  a  paste  with  water. 

To  Cleanse  Precious  Stones.  Apply 
precipitated  sulphur  moistened  with 
spirit  of  wine,  and  rub  with  a  very  soft 
brush. 

To  Cleanse  and  Beautify  Old  Oak 
Furniture.  I.  Wash  the  furniture,  in 
case  it  has  any  grease  stains,  with  warm 
beer. 

II.  Boil  wax  and  sugar  in  beer  and 
rub  the  furniture  with  this  by  means  of 
a  brush.  When  dry  rub  until  the 
article  shows  the  desired  lustre. 

J3rass  is  cleansed  by  rubbing  it  with 
spirits  of  ammonia  and  vinegar,  and 
then  with  blotting-paper  soaked  in  spirit 
of  wine. 

Silver  is  cleansed  by  placing  the  arti- 
cles for  a  few  minutes  in  a  boiling  hot 
solution  of  tartar,  and  then  rubbing 
them  with  soft  leather. 

Polishing  Powder  Jor  /Silver-ware,  etc. 


Mix  intimately  4  parts  of  washed  pipe- 
clay, and  1  of  purified  tartar. 

Gold  is  cleansed  with  Paris  red  and 
soft  leather. 

To  Polish  Slate  (Magnus'  Patent). 
Mix  intimately  7  parts  of  linseed  oil,  1 
of  ground  ochre,  3  of  tar  oil,  and  1  of 
asphaltum.  Apply  the  mixture  to  the 
surface  of  the  slate  by  means  of  a  brush, 
then  submit  the  article  to  a  heat  of 
about  200°  F.,  when  it  is  cooled  off 
and  polished  with  pumice  stone  and 
tripoli. 


COLORED  CHALKS  (CRAYONS),  PEN- 
CILS, AND  INKS  FOR  MARKING 
LINEN,  ETC. 

Colored  chalks  (crayons),  besides 
beauty  of  color,  must  possess  a  certain 
degree  of  solidity,  i.  e.,  they  must  be 
neither  too  hard  nor  too  soft. 

In  choosing  the  white  or  ground  body 
the  chemical  nature  of  the  coloring  sub- 
stances to  be  mixed  with  it  must  be 
taken  into  consideration.  For  instance, 
Paris  and  Berlin  blue,  lakes,  chrome 
yellow,  etc.,  must  not  be  mixed  with 
chalk,  as  this  would  injure  the  color. 

Plaster  of  Paris,  alabaster,  alumina, 
and  chalk  are  most  suitable  for  the 
white  ground  mass.  White  lead,  zinc 
white,  bones  burned  white,  and  pearl 
white  may  also  be  used,  but  as  a  general 
rule  are  too  expensive. 

Oil,  wax.  and  fats  serve  as  agglu- 
tinants.  The  finished  and  dried  chalks 
are  dipped  in  oil,  by  which  they  become 
softer  and  color  better. 

Gum  tragacanth  is  much  used  as  an 
agglutinant.  Soap  water  is  used  for 
many  colors,  as  also  yeast  from  beer 
which  has  not  been  hopped.  Glue  and 
gum  are  best  for  cinnabar ;  and,  for  pig- 
ments which  become  hard  in  drying, 
oatmeal  gruel. 

The  pigments  are  made  into  a  paste 
with  water  and  divided  into  three  equal 
portions.  The  first  portion  is  mixed 
with  agglutmants  for  finest  crayons. 
The  second  portion  is  mixed  with  white 
substances  for  lighter  colors,  and  the 
third  mixed  with  other  desired  pig- 
ments. 

Small  boards  covered  with  5  or  6 
sheets  of  waste  paper,  and  on  the  top 
of  this  a  sheet  of  white  printing  paper, 


COLORED  CHALKS,  PENCILS,  ETC. 


we  used  in  making  chalks  from  the 
first  portion  of  the  pigment.  The  pro- 
cess is  as  follows :  The  ground  pigment 
is  spread  upon  the  board,  and,  as  the 
paper  with  which  this  is  covered  ab- 
sorbs much  of  the  moisture,  it  will 
acquire  considerable  consistency.  When 
it  has  become  sufficiently  dry  to  allow 
of  it  being  treated  with  the  hand  with- 
out sticking,  a  piece  of  the  size  of  a 
hazel-nut  is  formed  into  a  ball  and 
rolled  out  between  the  hands  into  a 
cylinder  pointed  on  both  ends.  The 
cylinder  is  then  rolled  between  smooth 
boards  to  make  the  surface  smooth  and 
even.  It  is  then  laid  upon  another 
board,  covered  with  paper,  and  dried  in 
the  shade. 

The  second  portion  is  nibbed  with 
half  the  quantity  of  a  white  body  and 
formed  into  cylinders  of  a  lighter  color. 

The  last  part  of  the  pigment  is  used 
for  mixing  with  other  colors. 

Blue  Chalks.  Paris  blue  gives  the 
dark  shades.  To  prevent  the  chalks 
from  becoming  too  hard  the  following 
process  is  used :  Paris  blue,  finely  pul- 
verized, is  treated  with  concentrated 
sulphuric  acid,  which  decolorizes  it. 
Washing  it  in  water  restores  the  color 
and  deposits  a  fine  sediment,  which  is 
mixed  with  equal  parts  of  alumina  and 
calcareous  earth. 

Cobalt  Blue  and  Nurnberg  Ultra- 
marine give  excellent  crayons. 

Brown  Crayons.  Brown  ochre  with 
lampblack,  terra  japonica,  umber  with 
chalk,  liquid  gum  and  beer  yeast,  etc. 

Crimson  Crayons.  1.  These  are  pre- 
pared from  madder  lake,  round  lake, 
and  alumina,  with  beer  yeast,  oatmeal 
gruel,  milk,  or  gum  water  as  agglu- 
tinants.  2.  Mix  4  parts  of  chalk  with 
1  of  calcareous  earth,  and  color  with  a 
decoction  of  cochineal  and  alum.  Very 
beautiful  crayons  are  manufactured 
from  2  parts  of  scarlet  ochre  and  1  of 
carmine  mixed  together  with  milk,  oat- 
meal gruel,  and  gum  tragacanth.  Car- 
mine and  pearl  white  also  furnish  very 
fine  crayons.  Ordinary  crayons  are 
prepared  from  red  chalk,  red  bole,  col- 
cothar,  etc. 

Yellow  Crayons.  Yellow  ochre, 
chrome  yellow,  or  turpeth  mineral  are 
used,  either  by  themselves  or  rubbed 
with  chalk  and  mixed  with  gum  water 
or  beer  yeast. 


Green  Crayons  are  prepared  from 
green  earth  (mountain  green)  with 
chalk  and  beer  yeast;  or  mixtures  of 
Berlin  blue  and  chrome  yellow,  or  yel- 
low lake  and  Sehvveiniurt  green,  or 
green  ultramarine. 

Red  Crayons.  Red  crayons  are  made 
from  cinnabar,  red  lead,  and  beer  yeast. 
The  ingredients  are  boiled  until  a  vis- 
cous mass  has  been  formed;  then  add 
gum  tragacauth. 

Black  Crayons.  These  are  prepared 
from  willow-wood  charcoal,  finest  qual- 
ity of  lampblack  or  boneblack,  with  an 
addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  Paris 
blue  and  an  agglutinant. 

White  Crayons.  Pure  white  chalk 
is  cut  into  crayons,  or  they  are  made 
from  white  lead,  zinc  white,  or  zinc 
oxide  stirred  into  a  dough  with  milk. 

Pencils  for  Writing  Upon  Glass. 
Melt  in  a  saucer: 

Spermaceti 4  parts. 

Tallow 3    " 

Wax 2     " 

Add  to  this,  with  constant  stirring-: 

Red  lead 6  parts. 

Potash Ipart. 

Continue  to  heat  the  mass  for  half  an 
hour  and  then  pour  it  into  small  glass 
tubes  the  size  of  a  lead-pencil.  When 
the  compound  has  become  cold  it  is 
forced  into  small  wooden  tubes  and 
sharpened  with  a  knife. 

Pencils  for  Marking  lAnen.  Eight 
parts  of  alumina  are  thoroughly  dried 
and  mixed  with  2  parts  of  very  finely 
powdered  pyrolusite.  Add  to  these  a 
solution  of  3  parts  of  nitrate  of  silver  in 
5  of  distilled  water,  and  mix  the  mass 
intimately  bv  rubbing  and  kneading. 
Pencils  are  formed  from  this  mass  and 
dried,  and  used  for  marking  linen, 
either  in  this  form  or  enclosed  in  wood 
like  a  pencil. 

The  alumina  is  prepared  by  precip- 
itating a  solution  of  alum  with  ammo- 
nia. But  pure  clay  may  also  be  used 
instead  of  alumina. 

Marking  Ink  for  Linen.  To  use  this 
ink  it  is  necessary  to  soak  the  linen 
with  a  fluid  consisting  of  1  part  of 
sodium  hypophosphite,  2  of  gum  Arabic, 
and  16  of  distilled  water.  When  the 
linen  is  dry  it  is  smoothed  and  marked 
with  an  ink  consisting  of  1  part  of  silver 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


nitrate,  6  of  gum  mucilage,  and  6  of 
distilled  water. 

J\Tew  Marking  Ink.  An  excellent 
marking  ink  can  be  obtained  from  the 
anacardium  nut  (Anacurdium  orient- 
ale).  The  juice  contains  an  oily  matter 
which  becomes  black  on  exposure  to 
the  air,  is  proof  against  all  known  de- 
tergents; decolorizes  acids,  alkalies, 
cyanide  of  potassium,  and  chlorine. 
If  linen  is  marked  with  this  natural 
ink  and  then  moistened  with  a  little 
ammonia,  the  black  becomes  very  in- 
tense and  is  perfectly  permanent. 

Red  Indelible  Marking  Ink.  Equal 
parts  of  green  vitriol  and  cinnabar  are 
powdered  as  fine  as  possible,  bolted, 
carefully  mixed  with  good  linseed  oil, 
and  finally  strained  through  a  cloth. 
The  resulting  thickish  fluid  is  used  for 
marking.  It  is  best  to  do  this  with  a 
quill. 

Brown  Indelible  Ink.  Brush  the 
linen  with  a  solution  of  2  parts  of  yel- 
low prussiate  of  potash  and  3  of  gum 
Arabic  in  12  parts  of  water.  When  dry 
mark  it  with  a  mixture  of  equal  parts 
of  mangauous  hydrate  and  water. 

Blue  Indelible  Ink.     Mix  together: 

Sesquioxide  of  molybdenum      .     .  5  parts. 

Oxalic  acid 6     " 

Gum  Arabic 6     " 

Powdered  licorice 2     " 

"Water 9  ounces. 

Mark  the  linen  with  this  and  moisten 
the  writing  with  solution  of  tin  salt. 

Black  Indelible  Ink.  Mix  together 
2.5  parts  of  lunar  caustic  and  a  like 
quantity  of  tartar  with  10  parts  ofj 
spirits  of  sal-ammoniac,  and  add  to  the 
mixture  a  solution  of  0.6  part  of  sugar, 
1  of  gum  Arabic,  and  0.1  of  lampblack 
in  10  of  water. 

No.  2.  Dissolve  5  parts  of  lunar 
caustic  in  10  of  spirit  of  sal-ammoniac. 
Add  to  the  solution  7  parts  of  pure  soda, 
5  of  gum  Arabic,  and  12  of  water. 

No.  3.  Dissolve  1.7  parts  of  chloride 
of  copper,  2.1  of  sodium  chlorate,  and 
1.1  of  sal-ammoniac  in  12  of  water. 
Next  dissolve  24  parts  of  aniline  hydro- 
chlorate  in  40  of  water,  and  add  to  this 
24  parts  of  gum  mucilage  and  12  of 
glycerine.  When  the  ink  is  to  be  used 
1  part  of  the  first  solution  is  mixed 
with  4  of  the  second. 

Blue  Stamp  Color.    Bleu  de  Lyons ) 


is  dissolved  with  the  aid  of  gentle  heat 
1  in  concentrated  glycerine,  some  of 
Theuard's  blue  added,  and  the  liquid 
thickened  with  finely -powdered  gum 
Arabic. 

CONFECTIONERY. 

The  sugar  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  all  kinds  of  confectionery  must  be 
boiled  until  it  "breaks;"  that  mesins 
until  a  sample,  when  taken  from  the 
boiler  and  dropped  on  a  plate  of  glass, 
breaks  off  when  cold. 

To  Prepare  Elaeosaccftarum,  or  Oil 
Sugar.  This  is  generally  prepared  by 
thoroughly  mixing  in  a  porcelain  nicr- 
tar  i  ounce  of  sugar  with  12  drops  of 
any  ethereal  oil ;  for  instance,  the  oil 
of  anise  seed,  lemon,  fennel,  pepper- 
mint, etc. 

Malt  Sugar.  Boil  for  half  an  hour 
over  a  moderate  fire,  2  pounds  of  brown 
sugar  and  2  pounds  of  sugar-house  mo- 
lasses; then  add  If  ounces  of  extract  of 
malt  and  60  drops  of  tincture  of  vanilla. 
Allow  the  mixture  to  boil  up  once  more, 
and  then  pour  it,  while  in  a  liquid 
state,  upon  a  marble  slab,  mixed  with 
a  moderate  quantity  of  oil  of  almonds. 
When  half  cold  the  sugar  is  cut  into 
strips  and  these  twisted  into  spirals. 

Orange  Sugar.  Dissolve  2  ounces  of 
tartaric  acid  or  citric  acid  in  12J  ounces 
of  fresh  orange  iuice,  and  drop  the  so- 
lution upon  a  sugar-loaf  weighing  10 
pounds  placed  with  the  pointed  end 
downward.  The  sugar-loaf  is  left  in 
this  position  until  the  solution  has 
soaked  through  to  the  pointed  end, 
which  can  be  easily  recognized  by  the 
darker  color  of  the  moistened  places. 
This  simple  method  of  impregnation 
can  of  course  be  also  used  for  the  prep- 
aration of  many  varieties  of  finely 
flavored  sugars,  for  instance  vanilla, 
rose,  strawberry  sugar,  etc.,  by  employ- 
ing either  waterv  or  alcoholic  extracts 
of  spicy  substances  or  solutions  of 
ethereal  oils  in  spirit  of  wine. 

Pectoral  Troche?,  prepared  according 
to  the  following  receipt,  can  be  highly 
recommended :  Mix  J  ounce  of  sal-am- 
moniac, 80  grammes  (2f  ounces)  of  pul- 
verized licorice,  1  ounce  of  sugar,  30 
grains  of  gum  tragacanth,  and  li  fluid 
drachms  of  glycerine,  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  water  to  form  a  paste.  Eoll 


SWEETMEATS   (CONSERVES). 


81 


this  upon  a  marble  slab  rubbed  with 
oil  into  tablets  i  to  i  inch  thick,  cut 
tiiesa  into  rhombic  troches  froin  i  to  i 
inch  square,  and  allow  them  to  dry. 
If  desired  the  troches  can  be  wrapped 
in  silver  foil.  Confections  are  now 
wrapped  in  a  glycerine  paper  or  paraf- 
fined paper.  They  should  be  kept  in 
tin  boxes. 

Pectoral  Bon-bons.  Take  2  parts  of 
Iceland  moss,  2  of  common  red  poppy 
flowers,  2  of  endive,  and  1  of  marsh 
mallow,  and  boil  them  once  up  in  water. 
Let  the  decoction  stand  for  half  an  hour ; 
then  press  it  out,  and  boil  it  to  a  cara- 
mel with  90  parts  of  sugar ;  then  it  is 
treated  in  the  same  manner  as  other 
bon-bons. 

Raspberry  Bon-bons.  Take  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  juice  of  preserved  rasp- 
berries, then  boil  about  2  pounds  of 
sugar  until  it  "  breaks,"  pour  the  juice 
and  4  drops  of  essence  of  raspberry  into 
it,  and  let  it  boil  up  once  more. 

Carrot  Bon-bons.  Scrape  4  large 
carrots,  grate  them,  and  strain  through 
a  cloth.  The  juice  pressed  out  is  added 
to  2  pounds  of  sugar  and  boiled  to  cara- 
mel. 

Cream  Bon-bons.  Boil  3  pounds  of 
sugar  until  it  "breaks,"  and  then  add  1 
cupful  of  good  cream.  Let  the  sugar 
boil  up  repeatedly,  and  add  2  drops  of 
fine  oil  of  cinnamon. 

31  dt  Bon-bons.  Boil  1  pound  of 
roasted  barley  malt  with  1£  pounds  of 
water  until  it  is  reduced  to  half  the 
quantity  ;  strain  the  infusion,  andclarify 
with  it  1  pound  of  sugar  boiled  until  it 
"  breaks."  Then  pour  it  upon  a  mar- 
ble slab  rubbed  with  olive  oil  or  un- 
salted  butter,  and,  before  it  becomes 
cold,  cut  it  with  a  knife  into  square 
pieces. 

Cream  Walnuts.  Take  the  white  of 
1  egg,  stir  into  it  powdered  sugar  to 
make  it  stiff  enough  to  handle,  and 
flavor  with  vanilla.  Dip  the  walnuts 
into  a  syrup  made  of  two  tablespoon- 
fills  of  sugar  and  1  of  water,  boiled  for 
3  or  4  minutes.  The  cream  must  be 
moulded  between  the  fingers,  and  then 
placed  between  the  two  halves  of  a  wal- 
nut. To  make  chocolate  cream  walnuts, 
stir  2  tablespoonfuls  of  dissolved  choco- 
late into  the  cream. 

To  Prepare  Bon-bons  of  Caramel 
Sugar  with  Soft  Filling.  Pour  the 
6 


melted  caramel  sugar  upon  a  marble 
slab  and  place  the  filling  upon  it. 
Then  fold  the  sugar  over  the  filling  and 
join  the  two  sides  by  pressi ng.  A  pack- 
age is  formed  which,  by  drawing  out,  i.v- 
made  into  a  roll.  This  is  placed  at  oner 
upon  the  board  A  (Fig.  10),  covered 


tttt 


n~D 


Fig.  10. 

with  steel  plates  e.  Then  the  board  B, 
covered  with  steel  plates  e'  analogous 
to  e,  is  vigorously  pressed  against  A,  by 
which  the  roll  is  divided  into  bon-bons, 
which,  shortly  after  the  pressing,  are 
broken  apart. 


SWEETMEATS  (CONSERVES). 

Chocolate  Sweetmeat.  Boil  2  pounds 
of  sugar.  Then  rub  4i  ounces  of  va- 
nilla chocolate,  put  it  into  a  small  ves- 
sel, sprinkle  some  of  the  boiled  sugar 
over  it,  stir  them  thoroughly  together, 
and  add  to  the  other  sugar,  mixing 
thoroughly  with  it.  The  mass  is  done 
as  soon  as  a  crust  is  formed  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  sugar,  or  when  no  bubbles 
arise ;  a  ladleful  of  sugar  is  then  taket 
from  the  boiler  and  allowed  to  flow 
back  into  the  mass.  It  is  then  poured 
into  capsules  about  £  of  an  inch  deep. 
The  mass  after  having  been  allowed 
to  cool  for  a  short  time  is  marked  off 
with  a  knife  into  sticks  about  A  inch 
wide,  and  when  entirely  cold  the  cap- 
sules are  turned  over  and  moistened 
with  a  sponge,  when  the  paper  will  be 
easily  detached. 

Orange  Sweetmeat.  Two  pounds  of 
sugar  and  2  oranges.  Treat  in  the 
same  manner  as  above. 

Another  Receipt.  Bring  2  pounds  of 
pulverized  loaf-sugar  into  a  scoop,  pour 
orange-blossom  water  over  it,  and  stir 


82 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


to  a  thick  paste.  Place  this  over  a 
moderate  coal-fire  and,  with  constant 
stirring,  make  it  quite  hot,  but  do  not 
allow  it  to  boil.  Then  pour  the  mass 
into  paper  capsules  and  mark  it  into 
square  or  oblong  pieces. 

Orange- Jf/ossotii  Sweetmeat.  Clear 
and  boil  3  pounds  of  loaf-sugar,  add  a 
good  handful  of  selected  orange  blos- 
soms somewhat  cut  up,  and  let  it  boil 
up  once.  When  the  sugar  has  settled, 
rub  it  with  the  ladle  on  the  edge  of  the 
boiler  until  it  becomes  white;  scrape 
this  white  sugar  from  the  edge,  stir  it 
up  with  the  rest  of  the  sugar,  and  con- 
tinue this  operation  until  all  the  sugar 
is  white  and  thickish,  but  not  more  so 
than  that  it  can  be  conveniently  poured 
out.  It  is  then  poured  into  capsules  of 
paper  and  treated  as  above. 

llose  Sweetmeat.  Convert  powdered 
sugar  into  a  thick  mass  by  adding  rose- 
water;  dilute  a  little  carmine  or  cochi- 
neal with  rose-water,  and  add  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  it  to  give  a  rose-eolor  to  the 
mass.  The  further  treatment  is  the 
same  as  above. 

Jasmine  Sweetmeat  is  prepared  in  the 
same  manner  as  rose  sweetmeat,  with 
the  exception  that  no  color  is  used,  and 
distilled  jasmine  water  instead  of  rose- 
water. 

Carnation  Sweetmeat.  Take  the  flow- 
ers of  dark  red  carnation,  which  gener- 
ally have  a  strong  odor,  and  place  them 
with  a  few  cloves  or  some  essence  of 
cloves  in  a  tin  box.  Pour  sufficient 
hot  water  over  them  to  cover  the  leaves, 
close  the  box  with  a  cover,  and  let  it 
stand  on  a  warm  stove  for  6  to  8  hours. 
Then  press  the  contents  through  a  nap- 
kin, and  proceed  in  the  same  manner 
as  given  for  orange-blossom  sweetmeat. 
If  essence  of  cloves  is  used  it  is  added 
after  the  carnations  have  been  pressed. 

Vanilla  Sweetmea t.  Pound  2  vanilla 
beans  into  small  pieces  and  place  them 
in  a  tin  box  or  earthen  pot.  Now  pour 
I  pint  of  hot  water  over  them,  close 
the  box  as  tight  as  possible,  and  let  it 
stand  over  night.  Then  strain  the  con- 
tents through  a  napkin,  add  2  pounds 
of  loaf-sugar,  and  proceed  as  above. 

Filbert  Sweetmeat.  Pound  4£  ounces 
of  peeled  filbert  kernels  with  sufficient 
water  to  prevent  them  from  becoming 
oily ;  boil  1  pound  of  sugar,  stir  the 
nuts  into  it  gradually,  so  as  to  prevent 


their  lumping  together,  and  pour  the 
mass  into  paper  capsules ;  after  cooling 
make  it  into  strips  and  remove  the 
paper. 

Heliotrope  Sweetmeat.  Pottr  a  cup 
of  boiling  water  over  a  handful  of 
rinsed  heliotrope  blossoms  placed  in  an 
earthen  pot.  Close  the  pot  tight,  and 
let  it  stand  for  2  hours  in  a  moderately 
warm  place.  Strain  the  liquor  of  the 
heliotrope  blossoms  over  pulverized 
sugar,  and  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon 
juice  and  enough  water  to  make  a 
medium  thick  paste,  and  proceed  as 
above. 

Angelica  Sweetmeat.  Cut  the  young 
stems  and  shoots  of  angelica  into  finger- 
lengths  and  powder  them  in  a  mortar, 
and  pass  through  a  fine  sieve.  Flavor 
pulverized  sugar  with  the  angelica  pow- 
der, and  add  water  to  make  a  medium 
thick  paste,  and  treat  as  above. 

Another  Receipt.  Put  pulverized 
loaf-sugar  in  a  pan,  add  a  few  table- 
spoonfuls  of  angelica  seeds  and  form  the 
mixture  into  a  thin  paste.  For  the  rest 
proceed  as  above. 

Lemon  Sweetmeat.  Mix  pulverized 
loaf-sugar  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
lemon  juice  to  form  a  stiff  paste,  and 
proceed  as  above. 

Another  Receipt.  Rub  2  to  3  lemons 
with  2  pounds  of  sugar,  boil  this,  and 
treat  the  mass  as  above. 

Cinnamon  Sweetmeat.  Boil  2  pounds 
of  sugar,  add  powdered  cinnamon;  stir 
in  the  sugar  uniformly  in  the  manner 
indicated  above,  until  *it  forms  a  quite 
thick  mass,  and  then  pour  it  out. 

Cherry  Sweetmeat.  Pulverize  2 
pounds  of  sugar,  add  sufficient  fresh 
cherry  juice  to  form  a  thick  mass,  and 
make  it  hot  without  allowing  it  to  boil, 
stirring  constantly  in  the  meanwhile ; 
then  pour  the  mass  out,  and,  when 
cooled  off  somewhat,  mark  it  with  a 
pointed  knife  into  sticks  about  half  an 
inch  wide. 

Peppermint  Sweetmeat.  Pulverize  2 
pounds  of  loaf-sugar,  stir  it  with  water 
to  a  thick  paste,  and  heat  this  over  a 
gentle  coal  fire,  stirring  it  constantly. 
When  hot,  take  it  from  the  fire,  add  6 
drops  of  oil  of  peppermint,  stir  it  up 
several  times,  then  pour  it  out  and 
mark  it  into  oblong  sticks. 

Love  Sweetmeat.  Pulverize  3  pounds 
of  loaf-sugar,  2  ounces  of  ginger,  |  ounce 


MEDICINAL  SWEETMEATS. 


83 


of  oriental  saffron,  4J  grains  of  musk, 
H  grains  of  ambergris,  7J  grains  of 
cloves,  and  a  like  quantity  of  cubebs. 
Then  put  1  ounce  of  apricots  in  a  glass, 
pour  boiling  water  over  them  and  let 
it  stand  for  3  hours,  then  strain  it  through 
a  cloth,  and  add  to  the  liquor  3  grains 
of  tincture  of  mastic.  With  this  mix- 
ture stir  the  ingredients  given  above 
into  a  thick  paste. 

Sweet-Smelling  Sweetmeat.  Mix  2 
pounds  of  pulverized  sugar  with  10 
drops  of  essence  of  mignonette,  10  drops 
of  essence  of  tuberose,  10  drops  of 
essence  of  jasmine,  4  drops  of  essence 
of  ambergris,  and  4  drops  of  essence  of 
musk.  Stir  this  mixture  into  a  paste 
with  orange-blossom  water  and  pour  it 
out. 

Violet  Sweetmeat.  Pour  1  pound  of 
boiling  water  over  a  handful  of  cleansed 
violet  leaves  in  a  porcelain  pot,  which 
close  tight  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm 
place  over  night.  Then  filter  and  pour 
the  filtrate  upon  2  pounds  of  pulverized 
sugar,  and  proceed  as  above. 

All  these  sweetmeats  are  poured  into 
paper  capsules  and  marked  in  sticks 
with  a  pointed  knife,  as  indicated 
above,  or  are  dropped  in  round  drops 
upon  metal  plates. 


MEDICINAL  SWEETMEATS. 

Spoonwort  (Scurvy  Grass)  Sweetmeat. 
Convert  1  part  of  fresh  spoonwort  into 
paste  by  rubbing  it  with  a  wooden 
pestle  in  a  marble  mortar,  and  then 
work  2  parts  of  sugar  into  it. 

Water  Cress  Sweetmeat.  1  part  of 
fresh  leaves  of  water  cress  and  2  parts 
of  white  sugar.  The  manner  of  prep- 
aration is  the  same  as  above. 

Antiscorbutic  Sweetmettf.  Take  equal 
parts  of  spoonwort,  water  cress,  leaves 
of  feverfew,  juice  of  Spanish  radish, 
juice  of  oranges,  add  the  necessary 
quantity  of  pulverized  sugar,  and  pro- 
ceed as  above. 

Crdme  du  Caf6.  One  ounce  of 
roasted  Mocha  coffee  is  made  into  cof- 
fee in  the  ordinary  manner  with  £  pint 
of  boiling  water,  and  poured  upon  3 
pounds  of  boiling  sugar.  Then  add  2 
cupfuls  of  rich  cream,  and  boil  the 
sugar  to  caramel.  Now  add  2  ounces 
of  fresh  butter,  let  the  mass  boil  up 


several  times,  and  then  treat  it  in  the 
same  manner  as  other  bon-bons. 

Ore-me  du  Chocolade.  Boil  3  pounds 
of  sugar  and  add  1  cupful  of  ordinary 
boiled  chocolate.  Then  add  1  cup- 
ful of  rich  cream,  boil  the  sugar  to 
caramel,  and  add  2  ounces  of  fresh 
butter.  Let  the  mass  boil  up  several 
times,  and  then  treat  it  in  the  same 
manner  as  other  bon-bons. 

Coated  Filberts.  Remove  carefully 
the  kernels  of  large  filberts  from  the  -, 
shells,  put  them  on  small  wooden  sticks, 
dip  them  into  caramel  sugar,  and  then 
treat  them  in  the  same  manner  as  other 
filled  bon-bons. 

Roasted  Almonds.  Boil  1J  pounds 
of  sugar  with  £  pint  of  water  until  it 
draws  threads.  Then  add  1  pound  of 
selected  almonds,  and  stir  the  mixture 
over  the  fire  until  the  almonds  begin 
to  crack.  Now  take  the  boiler  from 
the  fire,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  becomes 
white  and  mealy,  then  pour  it  out  upon 
a  metal  plate  and  pick  out  the  almonds. 
The  remaining  sugar  is  put  back  into 
the  boiler,  stirred  with  water  into  a  thin 
paste,  and  a  trifle  of  cinnamon  and  a 
few  drops  of  cochineal  are  added. 
Then  boil  the  sugar,  pour  the  almonds 
into  it  and  stir  them  quickly,  so  that  all 
become  coated  with  the  sugar,  when 
they  are  poured  out  upon  a  metal  plate 
and  allowed  to  cool. 

Jtwisted  Filberts.  The  kernels  of 
large  filberts  are  carefully  taken  from 
the  shell.  Two  pounds  of  sugar  are 
added  to  2  pounds  of  kernels,  and  they 
are  then  treated  in  the  same  manner  as 
given  for  roasted  almonds. 

Coated  Chestnuts.  Make  an  incision 
with  a  penknife  into  the  shell  of  the 
chestnuts,  and  roast  them  in  an  oven 
until  they  begin  to  crack  and  the  shell 
becomes  detached.  The  chestnuts  are 
then  taken  out,  shelled,  put  on  small 
wooden  sticks,  and  dipped  into  hot 
sugar,  and  turned  around  in  the  hand 
for  a  few  minutes  until  they  are  entirely 
cold.  They  are  then  placed  upon  a 
clean  metal  plate,  the  sticks  are  taken 
out  and  the  chestnuts  wrapped  in 
paper. 

Candied  Cherries.  Brain  preserved 
cherries  through  a  strainer,  and  place 
them  for  2  days  in  a  drying  oven,  when 
two  of  them  are  placed  on  a  wooden 
stick  and  dipped  in  hot  sugar  caramel. 


84 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


and  worked  for  a  few  minutes  in  the 
hand  and  laid  upon  metal  plates.  The 
sticks  are  removed  and  the  candied  cher- 
ries wrapped  in  white  paper.  The  same 
directions  hold  good  for  all  other  fruits, 
such  as  apricots,  nuts,  peaches,  etc., 
with  the  exception  that  these  are  put 
singly  on  the  wooden  sticks. 

Glazed  Almonds.  Boil  1  pound  of 
sugar.  Then  place  1  pound  of  small 
selected  almonds  in  the  sugar,  and  boil 
until  the  latter  is  mealy,  when  the 
boiler  is  taken  from  the  tire,  its  contents 
poured  upon  a  metallic  sheet,  and  the 
almonds  are  picked  out.  The  remain- 
ing sugar  is  brought  back  into  the 
boiler,  stirred  into  a  thin  paste  with 
water,  and  boiled  until  it  draws  threads, 
when  the  boiler  is  taken  from  the  fire. 
Now  pour  the  almonds  into  the  sugar, 
stir  them  quickly,  and,  before  the  sugar 
congeals,  pour  them  back  upon  the 
metal  plate,  so  that  they  lie  flat  and  at 
some  distance  from  each  other.  Put 
the  plate  for  a  few  minutes  into  a  hot 
oven,  and  then  for  C  hours  in  the  dry- 
ing oven. 

Coated  Orange  Blossoms.  Place  8| 
ounces  of  dried  orange  blossoms,  4 
pounds  of  sugar,  and  i  pint  of  water  on 
the  fire,  and  for  the  rest  treat  in  the 
same  manner  as  given  for  roasted  al- 
monds. 

Candied  Oranges.  Peel  the  oranges 
down  to  the  fine  white  skin  and  then 
divide  them  carefully  in  8  or  more 
parts,  so  that  the  separate  parts  remain 
uninjured  and  the  juice  does  not  escape. 
Then  put  them  on  small  wooden  sticks, 
dip  into  caramel  sugar,  place  them 
upon  a  metal  plate,  and  when  cold  re- 
move the  sticks. 

Peppermint  Drops.  Stir  2  pounds 
of  pulverized  sugar  into  a  stiff  paste, 
with  very  little  water,  and  then  dis- 
solve it  in  a  well-tinned  copper  pan  pro- 
vided with  a  spout  and  a  handle.  Stir 
constantly,  and  let  it  become  hot  with- 
out boiling.  Then  add  a  few  drops  of 
oil  of  peppermint  and  pour  small  drops 
from  the  spout  of  the  pan  upon  a  well- 
oiled  metal  plate.  Should  the  mass  in 
pouring  out  prove  too  liquid,  place  it 
again  on  the  fire  and  add  more  sugar. 
If  it  is  desired  to  have  the  drops  very 
strong,  they  are  placed  in  a  box,  sprink- 
led with  oil  of  peppermint,  and  the  box 
closed  as  tightly  as  possible. 


Punch  Drops.  The  sugar  is  stirred 
into  a  thin  paste  with  equal  parts  of 
rum  and  lemon  juice,  so  that  the  mass 
need  not  be  heated  as  much,  or  else 
the  rum  would  evaporate.  They  are 
dropped  in  the  same  manner  as  pe'pper- 
mint  drops. 

LOZENGES.  Spice  for  Lozenges. 
Comminute  to  a  coarse  powder  1£ 
ounces  of  cinnamon,  1J  ounces  of  gin- 
ger root,  1J  ounces  of  cloves,  and  \ 
ounce  each  of  galanga,  mace,  and  nut- 
meg, and  sift  the  fine  powder  out. 
Keep  this  spice  in  well-closed  bottles. 

Chinese  Lozenges.  Make  a  syrup  of 
1  pound  of  white  sugar  with  i  pint  of 
water,  and  then  stir  quickly  into  it, 
while  hot,  3£  ounces  of  powdered  China 
root,  1  ounce  of  comminuted  preserved 
orange  peel,  and  £  ounce  of  lozenge 
spice.  Pour  out  and  cut  into  lozenges. 

Lemon  Lozevges.  Boil  1  pound  of 
white  sugar  with  4J  ounces  of  water; 
then  stir  into  it  1  ounce  of  comminuted 
preserved  lemon  peel,  1  ounce  of  the 
yellow  part  of  the  peel  of  fresh  lemons, 
20  drops  of  oil  of  lemon,  and  1  fluid 
ounce  of  lemon  juice.  Pour  the  mass 
out  and  cut  it  into  lozenges.  They 
have  a  very  agreeable  and  refreshing 
taste  and  quench  thirst. 

Peppermint  Lozenges.  Make  a  syrup 
of  1  pound  of  fine  white  sugar  with  i 
pint  of  peppermint  water ;  stir  into  it 
while  hot  li  ounces  of  finely  powdered 
peppermint,  £  ounce  of  lozenge  spice, 
1  ounce  of  peeled  sweet  almonds  cut  in 
thin  pieces,  and  1  fluid  drachm  of  oil 
of  peppermint,  and  form  the  mass  into 
lozenges. 

Ginger  Lozenges.  Make  a  syrup  of 
1  pound  of  fine  white  sugar  with  1  gill 
of  water,  then  stir  into  it  i  ounce  of 
powdered  cinnamon,  1  drachm  of  pow- 
dered nutmeg,  $  drachm  of  powdered 
mace,  and  7  drachms  of  powdered  gin- 
ger root,  and  cut  lozenges  from  the 


Stomachic  Lozenges.  Make  a  syrup 
of  1  pound  of  white' sugar  with  1  gill  of* 
best  rose-water.  Then  stir  into  it  1 
ounce  of  preserved  orange  peel  cut  in 
pieces,  a  like  quantity  each  of  lemon 
peel  and  candied  lemon  peel  cut  in 
small  pieces,  and  If  ounces  each  of 
peeled  sweet  almonds  and  lozenge 
spice,  and  cut  the  mass  into  lozenges. 

Cherry  Marmalade.    Boil,  with  fre- 


MEDICINAL  SWEETMEATS. 


85 


quent  stirring,  for  8  hours  20  pounds  of 
white  cherries,  4  pounds  of  black  cher- 
ries, and  8  to  12  pounds  of  sugar  syrup. 
This  will  give  a  marmalade  of  excellent 
taste  and  preferable  to  the  best  jelly. 

Iceland  Moss  Jelly.  Soak  and  wash 
2  ounces  of  Iceland  moss  and  dissolve 
it  in  a  like  quantity  of  water  in  order 
to  obtain  a  strong  solution.  Boil  this 
for  1  hour,  then  strain,  add  1  drachm 
of  isinglass,  and  boil  the  whole  until  it 
has  the  proper  consistency,  and  flavor 
with  sugar  and  lemon  juice.  This  jelly 
is  used  for  coughs  and  asthma. 

Isinglass  Jelly.  Soak  i  ounce  of 
isinglass  in  1J  pints  of  cold  water  for  12 
hours;  then  add  a  like  quantity  of 
water  and  heat  the  mass  gently,  con- 
stantly stirring  it,  until  all  the  isinglass 
is  dissolved.  If  it  is  desired  to  obtain 
an  entirely  clear  jelly,  add  the  white 
of  1  egg  before  removing  it  from  the 
fire. 

Gelatine  Jelly.  Soak  1  ounce  of  gel- 
atine in  \  pint  of  cold  water  for  12 
hours;  then  add  a  like  quantity  of 
water,  and  boil,  while  constantly  stir- 
ring, until  all  is  dissolved.  Flavor 
with  2  cut  lemons  and  sugar  and  wine. 

Buck-horn  Jelly.  Wash  thoroughly 
8J  ounces  of  rasped  buck's  horn,  then 
boil  it  in  2-i  quarts  of  water  until  but 
lj  quarts  remain,  and  strain  it.  Then 
add  2  ounces  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  1 
lemon,  and  the  white  of  1  egg  beaten 
previously  to  a  froth,  with  some  water. 
The  mixture  is  then  boiled  until  it  has 
the  proper  consistency,  when  the  yel- 
low part  of  the  peel  of  1  lemon  is  ad.led. 

Sago  Jelly.  Soak  1  ounce  of  sago  for 
1  hour  in  water;  then  boil  it  in  If 
pints  of  fresh  water  until  a  clear  solu- 
tion has  been  obtained.  Flavor  with 
wine,  sugar,  lemon  peel,  and  spices. 
The  sago  may  also  be  boiled  in  milk 
instead  of  water. 

.  Tapioca  Jelly.  Wash  thoroughly 
10'  ounces  of  tapioca  and  then  soak  it 
for  ">  to  6  hours  in  If  pints  of  fresh 
>wator;  add  the  peel  of  1  lemon  and 
place  the  whole  on  the  fire.  Boil 
slowly  until  a  clear  solution  is  obtained, 
and  then  flavor  it  with  lemon  juice, 
wine,  and  su^ar. 

Iri#h  JfoNS  Jelly.  Wash  the  moss 
thoroughly  and  soak  it  in  a  su Stable 
quantity  of  water.  Then  boil  and 
strain  it,  and  flavor  with  licorice,  rock 


candy,  and  lemon  juice.     It  is  used  as 
a  remedy  in  coughs  and  asthma. 

Ground  Mass  for  Cretne  ((Jr  erne  Fon- 
dant). To  a  solution  of  2  pounds  of 
grape  sugar  add  f  drachm  of  tartaric 
acid  and  a  like  quantity  of  bicarbonate 
of  soda.  The  solubility  and  lightness 
of  the  mass  is  increased  by  an  addition 
of  some  cream  of  tartar,  but  this  is  not 
absolutely  necessary.  The  resulting 
thickly-fluid  mass  is  worked  in  the 
usual  manner  for  confectionery  pur- 
poses. 

Red  Color  for  Coloring  Sweetmeats, 
Jellies,  etc.    Syrup  of  cochineal  is  gen- 
erally used.     But  a  far  more  beautiful       /    ., 
color,  which  is  not  affected   by  acids      ir 
and  alkalies,  is  obtained  by  preparing 
a  syrup   from   kerrues   berries   (Pltyto- 
lacca  dccandra).     It  may  also  be  used 
for  coloring  table  vinegar,  wine,  liq- 
uors, etc. 

Innoxious  Green  Color  for  Candies, 
etc.  Digest  7J  grains  of  saffron  for  24 
hours  in  i  ounce  of  distilled  water. 
Dissolve,  on  the  other  hand,  3J  grains 
of  indigo  carmine  in  j  ounce  of  dis- 
tilled water.  By  mixing  the  2  solu- 
tions together  an  intensely  green  color 
will  be  obtained.  By  boiling  the  col- 
oring matter,  compounded  with  sugar, 
to  a  syrup,  it  can  be  kept  for  months, 
or  it  may  be  evaporated  to  dry  ness  in  a 
porcelain  or  glass  vessel. 

Receipts  for  Preparing  Bandoline  or 
Fi.ro teur.  I.  Boil  Iceland  or  Irish 
moss  in  water,  strain,  and  perfume  the 
fluid. 

II.  Boil    i    teaspoonful    of   quince 
seed,  1  tablespoonful  of  flaxseed,  and 
a  pinch  of  white  mustard  seed   in  1 
pound  of  water  until  it  is  reduced  to 
half  the  quantity,  and  perfume  with  oil 
of  almonds. 

III.  Boil  for  5  minutes  1  tablespoon- 
ful of  flaxseed  in  1J  pints  of  water. 

IV.  Dissolve  by  heating  li  ounces  of 
isinsrlass  in  1  pound  of  water.     Then 
add  2  ounces  of  proof  spirit  of  wine  and 
perfume  with  oil  of  almonds. 

V.  Digest  1  part  of  powdered  gum 
tragacanth  for  3  days  in  30  parts  of 
rose-water,    then   strain,   and  perfume 
the  fluid  with  essential  oil  of  rose  or  oil 
of  almonds. 

The  above  mixtures,  if  necessary,  can 
be  dyed  with  cochineal. 

Baking  Powders.    I.  Mix  9  parts  of 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


bicarbonate  of  soda,  8  of  tartaric  acid, 
and  10  of  pulverized  orris  root  or  rice 
flour. 

II.  Mix  2f  parts  of  bicarbonate  of 
soda,  i  of  bicarbonate  of  ammonia,  5  of 
alum,  and  4  of  arrowroot. 

III.  Mix  56  parts  of  carbonate  of 
soda,  28  of  tartaric  acid,  112  of  potato 
flour,  and  £  of  turmeric. 

A  New  Baking  Powder  consists  of 
180  parts  of  crude  alum,  75  of  bicarbon- 
ate of  soda,  and  50  of  less  basic  phos- 
phate of  lime. 

By  less  basic  phosphate  of  lime  is 
meant  a  product  obtained  by  pouring 
an  equal  quantity  by  weight  of  hydro- 
chloric acid  of  10  per  cent,  over  bones 
calcined  white  and  ground  to  flour. 
By  pouring  water  over  this  baking 
powder,  carbonic  acid  and  sulphate  of 
potash  and  of  soda  are  formed,  while 
alumina  is  separated.  As  the  alum  is 
entirely  decomposed  the  inventor  of  the 
powder  considers  it  innoxious.  Three- 
quarters  of  an  ounce  of  )  'owder  suffice 
for  1  pound  of  flour.  It  is  added  dry 
to  the  ready  dough. 


COPYING  AND  PRINTING. 

New  Method  of  Copying  Engravings, 
Drawings,  and  Designs.  Place  the 
sheet  of  paper  on  which  the  drawing  is 
made  on  the  top  of  a  sheet  of  cardboard 
which  has  previously  been  exposed  to 
vapor  of  hydrochloric  acid,  and  on  the 
top  of  the  drawing  spread  a  sheet  of 
paper  sensitized  with  an  oxygen  salt  of 
silver.  The  double  nitrate  of  iron  and 
silver  is  one  of  the  best  for  this  purpose. 
The  vapors  of  the  hydrochloric  acic1 
rising  from  the  pasteboard  beneath  pass 
through  the  paper  at  all  points,  except 
those  at  which  the  lines  of  the  picture 
are  found.  The  oxy-salt  in  the  sensi 
tized  paper  quickly  becomes  converted 
into  chloride  of  silver  ;  but  those  points 
at  which  the  hydrochloric  acid  has  not 
penetrated  remain  in  their  first  con- 
dition. When  the  paper,  treated  in  this 
manner,  is  laid  on  a  plate  of  copper,  or 
exposed  to  hydrogen,  or  vapor  of  phos- 
phorus, the  unchloridized  parts  blacken, 
and  a  perfect  copy  of  the  design  is  ob- 
tained, which  may  be  afterwards  fixed 
in  the  regular  way. 

Gelatinoyraphy.     A   Cheap,   Quick, 


and  Simple  Process  of  Duplicating 
Drawings  by  means  of  the  Printing- 
press.  Cleanse  the  surface  of  a  smooth 
zinc  plate,  and  coat  it  with  a  paste  of 
plaster  of  Paris  and  water,  using  a 
camel's-hair  brush.  When  the  coating 
is  nearly  dry,  scratch  the  drawing  upon 
it  with  a  sharp-pointed  instrument,  cut- 
ting down  through  the  plaster  to  the 
metal,  so  that  all  the  lines  and  points 
shall  show  clear  and  sharp  on  the  zinc 
plate.  A  rim  of  ordinary  glazier's  putty 
is  then  made  around  the  zinc  plate,  and 
a  gently  heated  mass  prepared  from 
bone  glue  arid  glycerine,  such  as  is  u:<ed 
for  printers'  rollers,  is  poured  to  about  a 
thickness  of  4  to  i  of  an  inch  upon  the 
matrix  of  gypsum.  When  entirely  cold 
it  is  removed  from  the  matrix,  which  is 
readily  accomplished. 

This  gelatine  plate  reproduces  the 
entire  drawing  in  relief,  like  a  wood- 
cut or  zinc  etching.  It  is  attached  to  a 
smooth  surface  of  glass  or  metal,  placed 
in  a  frame  with  raised  rim,  and  a  plas- 
ter cast  is  made  of  it,  from  which  a  stereo- 
type plate  or  an  electrotype  may  be  made 
in  the  usual  way,  and  made  ready  for 
the  press.  (W.) 

Autographic  Method  of  Printing, 
The  writing  in  autographic  ink  is  trans- 
ferred in  the  usual  manner  on  a  cop- 
per plate,  and  this  is  treated  with  a 
solution  of  salts  of  mercury,  and  then 
with  metallic  mercury.  By  this  all  the 
points  left  free  by  the  automatic  ink 
receive  an  amalgamated  surface  which 
does  not  take  printing  ink. 

To  Duplicate  Writings  and  Draw- 
inr;s.  A  mass  consisting  of  gelatine, 
glycerine,  and  water  is  spread  upon 
water-proof  paper.  The  original  writ- 
ing or  drawing  is  executed  with  a  solu- 
tion of  100  parts  of  water,  10  of  chrome 
alum,  5  of  sulphuric  acid,  and  10  of 
gum  Arabic,  and  transferred  by  placing 
it  upon  the  water-proof  paper.  Solu- 
tion of  aniline  color  is  then  poured  over 
this,  and  the  excess  removed  with  tissue 
paper.  By  placing  clean  paper  upon 
the  prepared  paper,  negative  impres- 
sions of  the  original  are  obtained. 

Solution  of  water-glass,  or  of  astrin- 
gent salts,  may  be  used  in  place  of  the 
above  ink. 

Printing  in  Colors.  In  ordinary 
color  printing  as  many  plates  or  stones 
have  to  be  used  as  there  are  varieties 


COPYING  AND  PRINTING. 


87 


of  color.  Mr.  Goeth,  of  Zurich,  has 
recently  invented  a  process  in  which 
all  the  colors  are  printed  at  once  with 
one  stone.  The  colors  used  are  fusible 
by  heat.  The  most  prominent  color  is 
first  poured  on  a  perfectly  smooth  mar- 
ble slab,  and  the  parts  not  to  be  covered 
with  this  color  are  cut  out  with  a  knife 
down  to  the  surface  of  the  marble.  A 
second  color  is  now  poured  in,  and  the 
parts  not  to  be  covered  with  it  are  cut 
out,  and  so  on  until  the  colors  required 
are  complete.  The  thickness  of  the 
coloring  matter  is  determined  by  the 
number  of  impressions,  and  after  each 
impression  the  plate  is  very  slightly 
raised.  The  paper  is  moistened  with 
turpentine,  and  the  impressions  may  be 
made  with  nearly  the  same  rapidity  as 
those  with  one  color  only.  The  num- 
ber of  colors  has  a  quite  insignificant 
influence  on  the  price  of  the  prints, 
whereas  the  number  of  stones  in  the 
ordinary  method  raises  the  price  enor- 
mously. 

To  Copy  Drawings  in  Black  Lines  on 
White,  Ground.  The  following  pro- 
cess has  recently  been  patented  by  A. 
Colas,  of  Nev/Uly^  France.  Paper  is 
prepared  with  the  following  solution: 
i  ounce  each  of  sulphate  of  iron,  sesqui- 
chloride  of  iron,  gelatine,  and  tartiiric 
acid  in  10^  ounces  of  distilled  water. 
The  paper,  kept  flat,  is  stored  in  a  dark 
closet.  When  exposed  to  the  light 
beneath  a  transparent  drawing,  the 
parts  influenced  by  the  light  lose  their 
greenish-yellow  color.  It  is  afterward 
dipped  into  a  bath  made  of  7  ounces 
of  gallic  acid,  |  fluid  ounce  of  alcohol, 
and  1  quart  of  water.  The  greenish- 
yellow  lines  turn  black  at  once,  and 
the  sheet  requires  only  to  be  rinsed  in 
water. 

Cyanotype  (Bine  Prints).  In  a  man- 
ual distributed  by  the  Department  of 
Public  Work*,  of  France,  among  the  offi- 
cials occupied  with  producing  and  copy- 
ing plans  and  drawings,  the  following 
cyanotype  processes  are  recommended : 

I.  Dissolve  in  100  parts  of  water,  10 
of  sesqui-chloride  of  iron,  and  5  of  citric 
or  tartaric  acid.     Paper  dipped  in  this 
bath  and  exposed,  after  drying,  under 
a  transparent  dra  wing  gives,  on  develop- 
ment with  yellow  prussiate  of  potash,  a  . 
blue  negative. 

II.  Dissolve   10  parts   of  ferric-am-  I 


monium  citrate  in  100  of  water,  and  10 
parts  of  red  prussiate  of  potash  in  60  of 
water,  and  mix  the  two  solutions.  Pa- 
per dipped  in  this  and,  after  drying, 
exposed  to  the  light,  gives  a  blue  nega- 
tive, which  is  fixed  by  simply  washing 
it.  The  prepared  paper  should  be  kepi 
in  a  dry  place. 

Ahiioyraphy.  Gamier  coats  a  pol- 
ished copper  plate  with  solution  of 
sugar  and  bichromate  of  ammonium, 
and,  when  dry,  exposes  it  to  the  light 
under  a  diapositive  and  powders  the 
plate  with  the  finest  dust  of  albumen. 
The  plate  is  then  exposed  to  vapors  of 
fluoric  acid,  which  are  absorbed  by  the 
albumen,  adhering  only  to  the  points 
of  the  copper  plate  which  have  not 
been  exposed  to  the  light.  The  plate 
treated  in  this  manner  is  then  quickly 
laid,  with  the  picture  side  down,  upon 
a  glass  plate  which  has  been  previously 
coated  with  solution  of  sugar  and  borax 
in  water,  and  dried.  The  coating  on  the 
points  touched  by  the  absorbed  fluoric 
acid  becomes  fluid  and  is  dusted  over 
with  fusible  color.  The  action  is  al- 
most instantaneous,  and  the  operation 
can  be  repeated  several  times  with  the 
same  copper  plate  without  subjecting  it 
again  to  vapors  of  fluoric  acid.  Mag- 
lifieent  burned-in  pictures  are  obtained 
in  this  manner. 

Polygraphic  Method.  A  solution  of 
ounce  of  aniline  color  and  8  drops  of 
glacial  acetic  acid  in  3£  fluid  ounces  of 
water  is  used  as  an  ink  in  this  process. 
Japanese  paper,  a  copying  press,  and 
a  smooth,  polished  zinc  plate  are  used 
fur  producing  copies.  The  paper,  after 
the  corners  have  been  moistened,  is 
spread  out  upon  the  zinc  plate.  On  the 
;op  of  the  paper  is  placed  a  linen  cloth 
first  soaked  in  water  and  then  wrung 
out,  and  on  the  top  of  this  a  sheet  of 
water-proof  paper.  A  cushion  formed 
of  ordinary  paper  by  folding  it  several 
times  together  is  pressed  upon  the  zinc  . 
late  thus  prepared.  The  side  of  the 
sheet  written  on  is  placed  upon  the 
sheet  fastened  on  the  zinc  plate,  and  on 
;he  top  of  this  a  sheet  of  paper  of  the 
same  .size.  The  sheets  of  paper  which 
are  to  receive  the  copy  must  be  damp- 
ened. It  is  now  pressed  ;  in  a  few  min- 
utes the  impression  will  be  ready,  which 
can  be  used  at  once  for  20  to  25  copies. 
Ai'U-T  the  impression  is  drawn  oft'  the 


88 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Japanese  paper  is  removed  and  the 
zinc  plate  washed  and  cleansed.  If  4 
pages  of  a  sheet  have  to  be  copied  the 
pages  must  be  enveloped  in  sheets  of 
paper,  which  will  prevent  the  ink  from 
one  page  depositing  itself  on  the  other. 
The  Ca/lograp/i,  an  instrument  in- 
vented by  Jacobsen-,  ofJBer/iti,  for  dupli- 
cating manuscripts,  supplies  a  greater 
number  of  copies  than  by  any  other 
process,  and  in  printers'  ink,  which 
makes  them  accepted  by  the  Post  Office, 
as  printed  matter,  at  cheaper  postage 
than  when  written.  The  callograph 
printing  plates  are  composed  of  gela- 
tine, glycerine,  and  soap,  and  before 
using  are  washed  with  a  mixture  of 
tannin  and  glycerine,  leaving  a  kind  of 
tanning  on  the  surface. 

The  manuscript  is  written  with  a 
fluid  ink  prepared  from  salt  of  alumina, 
which  forms  upon  the  plate  a  sebate  of 
aluminous  substance  similar  to  that  in 
lithography,  capable  of  taking  print- 
ers' ink.  The  plate  should  be  moist- 
ened like  a  lithograph  stone. 

The  Hektograph.  A  composition  is 
made  as  follows :  Best  gelatine  or  glue, 
1  part,  is  soaked  over  night  in  cold 
water  and  the  excess  of  water  poured 
off.  The  glue  is  then  warmed  in  a 
water-bath  with  the  addition  of  from  10 
to  12  parts  of  glycerine,  to  which  may 
be  added  4  to  0  parts  of  finely-ground 
heavy  spar  and  1  part  dextrine,  thor- 
oughly mixed  with  constant  stirring. 
(In  summer  less  glycerine  should  be 
used.) 

This  melted  mixture  is  poured  into  a 
shallow  metal  pan  or  box  of  tin  or 
zinc  and  allowed  to  cool,  when  it  should 
have  the  tough,  elastic  consistency  of  a 
printers'  roller. 

The  letter  or  sketch  to  be  duplicated 
is  then  written  or  traced  on  a  sheet  of 
heavy  paper  with  an  aniline  ink  (which 
has  great  tinctorial  qualities).  When 
dry  this  is  laid,  inked  side  down,  on  the 
gelatine  plate  above  described  and  sub- 
jected to  moderate  and  uniform  press- 
ure for  a  few  minutes.  It  may  then  be 
removed,  when  a  copy  of  the  original 
will  be  found  on  the  gelatine  plate, 
which  has  absorbed  a  large  quantity  of 
the  ink. 

The  blank  sheets  to  receive  the  copies 
are  now  laid  one  by  one  on  the  gelatine  ! 
plate,  subjected  to  moderate  pressure  I 


over  the  whole  surface  with  a  wooden 
or  rubber  roller,  or  with  ihe  hand,  and 
lifted  off  by  taking  hold  of  the  corners 
and  stripping  it  gently  with  an  even 
]  movement.  If  this  is  done  too  quick iy 
|  or  roughly  the  composition  may  be 
torn.  Each  succeeding  copy  thus  made 
will  be  a  little  fainter  than  its  prede- 
cessor. From  40  to  60  legible  copies 
may  be  made  in  this  manner.  When 
the  operation  is  finished  the  plate 
should  be  gone  over  gently  with  a  wet 
sponge  and  the  ink  remaining  on  its 
surface  soaked  out.  The  superfluous 
moisture  is  then  carefully  wiped  off, 
when  the  plate  will  be  ready  for  another 
operation.  A  good  purple  hektograph 
ink  is  made  as  follows :  Dissolve  1  part 
methyl-violet  in  8  parts  water  and  add 
1  part  glycerine.  Gently  warm  the 
:  solution  for  an  hour,  and  add,  when 
cool,  i  part  alcohol.  Or,  take  methyl- 
violet  1  part,  water  7  parts,  glycerine  2 
parts.  (W.) 

J'Jdison's  Electric  Pen.  This  ingen- 
ious method  of  duplicating  written 
copy  is  the  invention  of  Mr.  Thos.  A. 
Edison.  The  pen  is  a  slender  tube  of 
metal  within  which  is  a  steel  needle 
which  is  slightly  driven  forward  out  of 
the  tube  many  times  per  second  by 
means  of  a  small  electro-magnetic  en- 
!  gine  carried  at  the  other  extremity, 
i  which  engine  is  actuated  by  a  voltaic 
I  battery.  The  operator  slowly  directs 
the  pen  by  hand  over  a  sheet  of  pre- 
pared paper  laid  on  a  smooth  metal 
plate.  At  every  blow  of  the  armature 
the  needle  punctures  the  paper,  and 
the  result  is,  finally,  the  production  of 
a  stencil  of  the  letter,  design,  etc.,  in 
which  the  words  or  lines  are  made  up 
of  dots  so  close  together  that  at  a  little 
distance  they  appear  to  the  eye  as  con- 
tinuous lines.  The  sheets  to  be  printed 
are  overlaid  by  this  stencil  and  an 
inked  roller  passed  over  it — the  result 
being  an  impression  of  the  letter,  de- 
sign, etc.  A  great  number  of  copies 
may  thus  be  produced  from  a  single 
stencil.  The  apparatus  comprises  a 
compact  and  convenient  printing 
frame.  (W.) 

The  Cyclostyle.  This  new  duplicat- 
ing process  is  a  substitute  for  the  "  Edi- 
son Pen,"  and  does  away  with  the  use 
of  a  battery  and  other  electrical  appli- 
ances. The  process  is  purely  -  median- 


DECORATION,  ORNAMENTATION,  ETC. 


ical  one.  The  essential  feature  of  this 
invention  is  the  pen.  This  consists  of 
a  suitable  holder,  carrying  at  one  ex- 
tremity a  very  small  disk  of  hardened 
steel  (or  other  suitable  metal),  with  ser- 
rated edge  and  so  mounted  as  to  revolve 
freely.  A  sheet  of  prepared  paper  is 
laid  on  a  smooth  metal  surface,  and  the 
letter,  design,  etc.,  to  be  duplicated  is 
traced  thereon  with  the  cyclostyle. 
The  fine  serrations  of  the  wheel,  pac- 
ing over  the  paper,  produce  an  infinite 
number  of  minute  punctures,  identical 
with  those  produced  with  the  "  Edison 
Ekvtric  Pen."  A  stencil  is  thus  pro- 
duced from  which  any  desired  number 
of  copies  can  be  made  by  placing  sheet 
after  sheet  beneath  it  and  going  over 
the  stencil  with  an  inked  roller.  Sev- 
eral thousand  duplicates,  it  is  claimed, 
may  thus  be  obtained  from  a  single 
stencil.  This  apparatus  comprises  a 
convenient  printing  frame.  (W.) 


DAMASKEENING  STEEL. 

Genuine  D'im'tsk.  Cut  8  sheets  of 
steel  12  inches  long,  1  inch  wide,  and 
T'5  inch  thick.  Now  prepare  5  sheets 
of  soft  iron  an  1  4  of  brittle  iron,  of  equal 
dimensions  with  the  steel  sheets.  These 
are  then  joined  together  in  the  follow- 
ing manner:  A  sheet  of  steel  is  laid 
upon  one  of  soft  iron,  upon  this  one  of 
brittle  iron,  then  one  of  steel,  and  so  on 
to  the  seventh  sheet,  which  should  be 
one  of  soft  iron.  This  bundle  is  placed 
in  the  fire  and,  without  heating  it  over 
much,  weld  3d  together.  It  is  then 
squared  an  1  worked  smooth  under  the 
hammer  and  brought  to  a  white  heat. 
One  end  is  then  placed  in  a  vise,  the 
other  is  grasped  with  a  pair  of  tongs 
and  the  mass  strongly  twisted  into  the 
shape  of  a  screw.  It  is  then  smoothed 
and  wrought  into  a  Jbar  i  to  f  inch 
wide  and  ^  to  i  inch  thick.  This  is  cut 
into  2  equal  parts.  A  sheet  of  steel  & 
inch  thick  and  as  long  and  as  wide  as 
1  of  the  2  parts  of  the  prepared  bar  is 
cut  and  placed  between  the  2  parts. 
The  mass  is  placed  in  the  fire  and  then 
beaten  under  the  hammer  to  the  thick- 
ness required  for  the  articles  to  be  man- 
ufactured. A  pickle  consisting  of  H 
pints  of  water,  1  ounce  of  aqua-fort  is,  1 
ounce  of  sal-ammoniac,  and  4A-  drachms 


of  blue  vitriol  is  now  prepared  in  a 
copper  vessel.  Paint  the  places  which 
are  not  to  be  damaskeened  with  some 
kind  of  varnish,  and  place  the  articles 
manufactured  from  the  prepared  bar 
into  the  bath.  When  the  pickle  has 
taken  effect  they  are  taken  out,  rinsed 
off  with  cold  water,  and  dried. 

Imitation  of  Damask.  Prepare  a 
mixture  of  equal  parts  of  good  linseed- 
oil  varnish,  white  rosin,  and  wax.  Coat 
with  this  the  iron,  which  should  have 
been  previously  cleansed  and  polished, 
and  dfraw  with  a  pen  the  pattern  usually 
used  in  damaskeening.  Make  a  rim  of 
wax  around  the  pattern  and  pour  nitric 
acid  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of 
lemon  juice  upon  the  pattern.  As  soon 
as  the  nitric  acid  assumes  a  brownish 
color  pour  it  off,  wash  the  iron  thor- 
oughly with  water,  and  remove  the  var- 
nish by  melting.  If  the  article  is  small, 
round,"  or  has  an  uneven  surface,  place 
it  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  mixture  of  8 
parts  of  water,  1  of  nitric  acid,  and  1  of 
lemon  juice,  and  allow  it  to  remain  un- 
til the  fluid  assumes  a  brownish  color, 
when  it  is  taken  out  and  cleansed. 

Damaskeervmg  with.  Gold  or  Silver. 
There  are  two  methods  of  practising 
this  process.  By  one  method  the  sur- 
face of  the  metal  to  be  damaskeened  is 
roughened  with  a  file;  the  artist,  by  his 
skill,  causes  to  adhere  to  the  roughened 
surface  threads  of  gold  or  silver,  which 
are  applied  and  burnished  down.  Broad 
surfaces  are  produced  by  working  the 
threads  or  wires  side  by  side.  Heat  is 
applied,  but  the  necessary  degree  re- 
quires great  judgment.  In  the  other 
method  the  surface  to  be  damaskeened 
is  incised  or  cut  into,  the  incision  at  the 
bottom  being  expanded.  Into  this 
channel  gold  or  silver  is  introduced  and 
beaten  down. 


DECORATION,  ORNAMENTATION,  ETC. 

To  Gild  Glass.  Make  a  paste  of  fine 
bole,  burned  ochre,  umber,  and  copal 
varnish,  and,  to  make  the  mass  as  fine 
as  possible,  strain  it  through  a  cloth. 

Cleanse  the  glass  to  be  gilded  by  rub- 
bing it  with  pulverized  chalk  and  a 
rag,  and,  when  clean,  avoid  touching  it 
with  the  naked  hand.  Then  by  means 
of  a  brush  draw  or  paint  the  desired 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


decoration  upon  the  glass  with  the 
above  mass,  fill  it  with  water  to  prevent 
it  from  cracking,  and  expose  it  to  a 
moderate  heat.  Protect  the  glass  from 
dust  and  other  contaminations.  When 
it  is  sufficiently  dry  to  allow  of  the  gold 
leaf  being  applied,  cut  this  with  a  finely- 
polished  knife  into  the  necessary  shape 
and  press  it  gently  upon  the  glass.  The 
glass  is  then  protected  against  dust  in 
the  same  manner  as  before,  but  heated 
somewhat  stronger  to  burn  the  gold  in. 
-This  gilding  will  adhere  as  well  as  fire 
gilding. 

Gold  for  Illuminating.  Procure  a 
book  of  leaf  gold ;  gently  take  out  some 
of  the  leaves  and  grind  them  in  a  mor- 
tar with  a  little  honey  until  it  is  thor- 
oughly intermixed  with  the  gold,  then 
add  a  little  water  and  work  it  again. 
Put  the  whole  into  a  vial  and  shake  it 
well.  Let  it  stand  quietly  for  an  hour 
or  two  and  the  gold  will  deposit  at  the 
bottom  of  the  vial.  Pour  oft'  the  liquid 
standing  over  the  gold  and  add  weak 
prepared  gum  in  its  stead,  sufficient  to 
make  it  flow  freely  from  the  pen  or 
camel's-hair  pencil.  When  required 
for  use  shake  it  occasionally. 

To  Gild  Porcelain.  Dissolve  1  ounce 
of  gold  in  a  mixture  of  4i  ounces  each 
of  nitric  acid  and  hydrochloric  acid; 
then  add  18£  grains  each  of  tin  and 
butter  of  antimony,  and  when  the  whole 
is  dissolved  dilute  the  fluid  with  1  pint 
of  water. 

The  solution  of  gold  is  decomposed 
by  a  peculiar  balsam  prepared  in  the 
foil  /wing  manner :  Dissolve  at  a  mod- 
erate heat  i  ounce  each  of  sulphur  and 
Venetian  turpentine  in  2f  fluid  ounces 
of  oil  of  turpentine,  until  the  solution 
has  acquired  a  thick  consistency  and  a 
dark-brown  color,  and,  when  cold,  add 
IS  ounces  of  oil  of  lavender.  Pour  the 
solution  of  gold  upon  this  balsam,  heat 
it  moderately,  and  stir.  The  solution  of 
gold  will  be  decolorized,  and  the  gold, 
entirely  dissolved,  passes  into  the  oily 
fluid,  which,  when  cold,  resembles 
rosin.  The  liquid  standing  over  it, 
which  contains  the  acid,  is  poured  off, 
the  oily  fluid  washed  with  warm  water, 
and  when  the  last  traces  of  moisture 
have  been  removed,  2i  ounces  of  oil  of 
lavender  and  31  ounces  of  oil  of  turpen- 
tine are  added,  and  the  mixture  is 
heated  until  the  whole  is  dissolved, 


when  it  is  poured  over  1J  drachms  of 
subuitrate  of  bismuth  and  allowed  to 
settle.  The  clear  portion  is  poured  oif 
and  concentrated.  An  auriferous  bal- 
sam consisting  of  a  thickish  fluid  with 
a  light  greenish  lustre  is  obtained  in 
this  manner. 

The  Venetian  turpentine  is  added  as 
a  drier.  The  auriferous  resins  remain- 
ing after  the  evaporation  of  the  volatile 
oils  become  decomposed  when  exposed 
to  heat,  and,  without  melting,  produce 
at  a  low  temperature  a  residue  of  car- 
bon and  gold  having  the  appearance  of 
a  very  thin  leaf. 

To  Gild  an  Ornamental  Frame. 
Cleanse  the  frame  from  all  impurities. 
Then  boil  4£  ounces  of  fine  glue  with 
1^  pints  of  water.  Saturate  the  cleansed 
frame  with  this  by  means  of  a  brush 
until  the  wood  is  thoroughly  permeated 
and  has  acquired  some  lustre. 

Applying  the  First  Coat.  Take  8| 
ounces  of  Spanish  chalk  and  4^  ounces 
of  French  chalk  and  triturate  both 
with  the  glue  water;  bring  the  mass 
into  a  pot,  heat  it  somewhat,  and  dilute 
it  to  the  consistency  of  syrup,  but  avoid 
making  it  too  thinly  fluid.  Now  spat- 
ter the  mass  upon  the  frame  with  a 
brush  so  that  it  assumes  a  rough  ap- 
pearance, and  as  soon  as  the  coat  is  dry 
repeat  the  application  5  or  6  times; 
but  the  mass,  after  the  second  applica- 
tion, should  be  spread  instead  of  being 
spattered.  When  the  frame  thus  pre- 
pared is  dry,  the  surface  is  first  rubbed 
with  pumice  stone  and  then  finished 
with  shave-grass  (horse-tail),  when  it  is 
set  aside  in  a  clean,  dry  place  to  receive 
later  on  the  gilding  size. 

Preparation  of  Gilding  Size.  Melt  i 
ounce  of  beeswax  and  1  ounce  of  Vene- 
tian soap,  then  add  8|  ounces  of  Arme- 
nian bole,  and  roast  the  whole  thor- 
oughly. When  this  has  been  done  add 
the  whites  of  16  eggs,  rub  the  whole 
together  upon  a  rubbing  stone,  and 
from  the  resulting  mass  form  balls  of 
the  size  of  a  hazel-nut ;  dry  these  upon 
a  glass  plate  and  put  them  by  in  a  dry 
place. 

Applying  the  Gilding  Size.  Take  a 
piece  of  gilding  size,  triturate  it  with 
water,  place  it  in  a  clean  glass,  and 
dilute  with  water.  Brush  the  frame 
slightly  with  the  dissolved  gilding  si/c 
5  or  G  times,  allowing  one  application 


DECORATION,  ORNAMENTATION,  ETC. 


01 


to  dry  before  laying  on  the  next.  If 
the  frame  is  to  be  gilded  with  a  bright 
lustre  a  stiff"  brushing  is  required  to  re- 
move the  dust  which  may  have  settled 
upon  the  gilding  size;  but  if  a  dead 
lustre  is  wanted,  the  gilding  size  is 
coated  with  a  very  thin  parchment  size ; 
and  if  the  dead  lustre  is  to  be  very 
characteristic  it  is  first  smoothed  with 
a  burnisher. 

Bright  Lustre.  A  palette  is  required 
for  this.  The  gold  sizing  is  moistened 
with  very  pure  white  fruit  brandy  by 
means  of  a  caineFs-hair  pencil,  the  gold 
leaf  cut  with  a  knife  and  placed  upon 
the  moistened  spot  with  the  palette. 
It  is  then  allowed  to  dry,  and  those 
places  intended  to  show  a  bright  lustre 
are  smoothed  with  the  burnisher.  By 
this  a  gilding  is  produced  which  closely 
resembles  fire-gilt  work.  All  dust 
should  be  avoided  during  the  work. 

Dead  Lustre.  After  the  gold  leaf  has 
been  applied  to  those  places  which  are 
to  show  a  dead  lustre,  apply  lukewarm 
fruit  brandy  and  parchment  size.  Then 
take  some  dragon's  blood  and  orpiment, 
rub  them  very  fine,  and  make  a  simple 
gold  glazing  with  water  and  a  little 
parchment  size,  and  apply  this  2  or  3 
times.  For  lemon-colored  gold  take 
saflron  instead  of  dragon's  blood. 

/Silvering.  Preparation  of  the  Silver 
Size.  Thoroughly  roast  in  a  pan  4i 
ounces  of  finely-pulverized  fat  pipe- 
clay, 2^  ounces  of  Spanish  chalk,  i 
ounce  each  of  Venetian  soap  and  bees- 
wax. Rub  these  fine  with  the  whites 
of  20  eggs,  and  apply  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  gold  sizing. 

Silvering  with  a  Dead  Lustre.  Rub 
3£  ounces  of  white  lead  and  i  ounce  of 
white  litharge  with  linseed-oil  varnish ; 
mix  the  mass  with  an  oil  varnish  and 
apply  in  the  same  manner  as  indicated 
above  under  gilding. 

To  Silver  Wooden  Figures  with 
Jiismut't.  Paint  the  figure  over  with 
light  glue,  make  a  fine  white  chalk 
priming  of  glue  and  chalk,  and  apply 
this  two  or  three  times.  Melt  the  bis- 
muth in  a  crucible,  and  pour  it  out  care- 
fully so  that  the  impurities  remain  be- 
hind. Triturate  the  melted  bismuth 
upon  a  hard  stone,  and  stir  it  into  a 
paste  with  light-colored  glue.  Lay  this 
on  the  chalk  priming,  and,  when  dry, 
polish  with  a  burnisher. 


To  Gild  and  Silver  Visiting  Cards. 
Make  a  small  matrice  of  pasteboard, 
and  surround  this  with  a  low  edge  of 
the  same  material,  so  that  the  cards  can 
be  firmly  held  during  the  printing. 
Then  coat  the  plate  twice  with  thick 
white  of  egg,  and  dry  the  coating  until 
it  shows  not  the  slightest  trace  of  moist- 
ure. Now  place  the  gold  or  silver  leaf 
upon  the  plate,  and  press.  The  plate 
should  not  be  too  hot ;  it  is  better  to  use 
it  almost  cold.  The  gold  or  silver  in 
excess  is  removed  with  cotton. 

To  Gild  or  Silver  Morocco  Paper. 
Wash  the  paper  with  urine,  and  paint 
it  over  but  once  with  white  of  egg.  A 
moderate  heat  only  should  be  used. 

To  Gild  Cotton.  Spread  the  cotton 
over  with  glue,  dry  it,  and  then  apply 
a  thick  solution  of  parchment  size  and 
dry  it  again  entirely.  The  gilding  will 
adhere  to  this  very  well. 

Gilding  and  Silvering  on  Parchment 
and  Paper.    Triturate  Venice  glass  up- 
on a  hard  stone  with  gum  water,  write 
or  paint  with  this  upon  the  parchment 
or  paper  and  allow  it  to  dry.     Then  rub 
:  the  places  written  over  or  painted  with 
'  a  gold  coin,  which  will  gild  them,  or 
|  if  they  are  to  be  silvered,  with  a  piece 
of  fine  silver,  and  burnish  them. 

Italian  Method  of  Gilding  Wood. 
Paint  the  wood  over  several  times  with 
hot,  but  not  too  strong,  glue  water,  so 
that  the  pores  of  the  wood  become  thor- 
oughly permeated.  If  the  surface  of 
the  wood  is  fiat,  apply  the  glue  water 
with  a  flat  brush.  When  the  glue  water 
is  dry,  a  priming  of  chalk  is  laid  on  the 
wood.  For  this  as  much  whiting  as 
necessary  is  rubbed  very  fine  upon  a 
stone  with  glue  water.  This  is  laid  on 
the  wood  twice  or  three  times,  allowing 
:  each  application  to  dry  before  applying 
'  the  next.  The  ground  is  then  smoothed 
I  with  shave-grass  (horse-tail)  until  the 
I  surface  is  entirely  even.  It  is  then 
polished  with  a  coarse  cloth  wrapped 
around  a  piece  of  soft  wood,  square  on 
one  end  and  pointed  on  the  other. 
During  the  polishing,  which  is  con- 
tinued until  the  ground  shows  some 
lustre,  the  work  must  be  frequently 
dampened  with  a  moist  brush. 

The  gilding  size  is  prepared  as  fol- 
lows :  ij  ounces  of  graphite,  1  pound  of 
!  French  white  bole,  and  3^  pounds  of 
|  Armenian  bole  are  pulverized  as  finely 


92 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


as  possible  in  a  mortar,  then  passed 
through  a  sieve,  intimately  mixed  to- 
gether, and  brought  into  a  well-lined 
crucible.  Eight  and  three-fourth  ounces 
of  shavings  of  white  beeswax  are  then 
added ;  the  mixture  is  placed  over  a 
moderate  fire,  and  allowed  to  remain 
there  until  the  mass  has  become  en- 
tirely homogeneous.  It  is  then  poured 
upon  a  stone  slab,  and  allowed  to  cool, 
when  the  whites  of  24  to  28  eggs  are 
added,  and  the  whole  rubbed  to  an  im- 
palpable powder  upon  a  hard  stone. 
This  powder  is  placed  upon  paper  aad 
dried,  when  it  is  stored  away  for  future 
use.  Every  time  it  is  to  be  used  it  is 
triturated  with  water. 

The  gilding  is  done  in  the  following 
manner :  Take  a  vessel  filled  with  ordi- 
nary whiskey,  and  a  few  brushes  of 
different  sizes;  also  a  cushion  stuffed 
with  cotton  and  edged  with  parchment, 
which  is  placed  upon  a  board  covered 
with  leather.  The  gold  leaves  are 
placed  upon  the  cushion,  and  cut  into 
the  required  size  with  a  knife.  A  broad, 
flat  camel's-hair  pencil  is  used  for  ap- 
plying and  fastening  the  gold  leaf. 
The  parts  to  be  gilded  are  first  moistened 
with  whiskey  by  means  of  the  brush, 
and  the  gold  leaf  is  then  laid  on.  When 
the  work  is  finished,  it  is  alloAved  to 
dry  for  a  few  days,  and  the  parts  which 
are  to  be  polished  are  then  rubbed  with 
the  burnisher  until  the  required  lustre 
is  produced.  Those  parts  which  are  to 
have  a  dead  lustre  are  brushed  over 
with  a  solution  of  saffron  in  spirit  of 
wine. 

Burofs  Process  of  Silvering  and  Gild- 
ing Silk,  Cotton,  and  Woollen  Yarns. 
Arrange  the  cords  to  be  silvered  in 
proper  order,  and  immerse  them  for  2 
hours  in  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver 
mixed  with  caustic  ammonia  until  it  is 
clear.  Dry  the  cords  and  expose  them 
to  a  current  of  pure  hydrogen.  As  the 
threads,  by  this  process  of  silvering, 
have  become  good  conductors,  they  can 
be  easily  electroplated  with  gold. 

To  Make  Glass  Opaque  or  Frosted. 
First  cleanse  the  glass.  If  only  por- 
tions of  it  are  to  be  frosted,  leave  those 
bare  and  protect  the  others  by  a  coat- 
ing of  wax  or  other  impermeable  sub- 
stance. Then  rub  some  fluorspar  to  a 
fine  powder,  and  mix  it  with  concen- 
trated sulphuric  acid,  so  as  to  make  a 


I  thin  paste.  Rub  this  by  means  of  a 
piece  of  lead  upon  those  parts  of  the 

!  glass  which  are  to  be  rendered  opaque. 
A  fine  frosted  outline  of  the  design  may 
thus  be  produced  upon  a  sheet  of  smooth, 
transparent  glass.  To  finish  the  oper- 
ation tne  glass  is  gently  heated  in  an 
iron  vessel  placed  beneath  a  chimney 
flue,  to  carry  off  the  noxious  fumes  that 
are  thrown  off.  The  plate,  when  cool, 
is  washed  with  a  diluted  solution  of 
soda  or  potash,  to  remove  the  last  traces 
of  acid,  and  is  then  rinsed  in  water. 
Focusing-  glasses  for  the  photo-camera, 
and  development-glasses  for  pigment 
printing,  can  be  prepared  in  this  way 
at  very  little  expense. 

Ornamenting  Metal  Surfaces.  A 
new  process  for  ornamenting  metal 
surfaces  consists  in  plating,  electro- 
plating, or  othewise  covering  a  plate, 
bar,  or  ingot  of  soft  metal  witli  a  thin 
film  of  harder  metal,  and  then  rolling 
out  or  pressing  the  ingot  or  bar  into  a 
sheet;  whereby  the  coating  is  broken 
into  irregular  forms,  and  a  marbleized 
appearance  produced  on  the  surface  of 
the  sheet. 

Aubriut's  New  Process  of  Decorating 
Glass.  The  present  methods  employed 
to  render  glass  opaque  are  likely  to  fall 
into  disuse  when  this  new  process  be- 
comes better  known,  for  muslin  glass, 
as  it  is  termed,  can  be  produced  in  a 
variety  of  colors  and  in  a  number  of 
pleasing  designs  which  will  compare 
favorably  with  the  dull  monotony  of 
the  present  ground  glass,  and  even 
with  etched  or  embossed  glass.  A 
sheet  of  the  material  to  be  covered  is 
floated  with  a  vitrifiable  pigment  dis- 
solved in  gum  water,  and,  when  dry, 
the  stencil  pattern  is  laid  on,  and  the 
exposed  parts  are  cleaned  with  a  stiff 
brush.  The  sheet  of  glass  is  then 
placed  in  a  furnace  and  the  remain- 
ing color  burned  in.  When  simple 
opaque  glass  is  desired,  a  plate  is  cov- 
ered with  gum  water  and  dried ;  it  is 
then  placed  in  a  frame,  and  a  piece  of 
tulle,  muslin,  or  other  suitable  mate- 
rial stretched  over  it  inclose  proximity 

•  to  the  gummed  surface.  The  frame  is 
then  placed  in  a  box  containing  a 
quantity  of  the  powdered  pigment, 
which  is  forced  against  the  muslin  by 
an  air-blast,  and,  passing  through  the 
interstices,  adheres  to  the  gummed 


DECORATION,  ORNAMENTATION,  ETC. 


93 


glass.  In  this  way  the  patterns  of  the  j 
lace  or  muslin  are  reproduced,  and  the  i 
powder  heing  first  caused  to  adhere 
tinniy  by  placing  the  plate  in  a  steam 
chamber  for  a  few  moments,  is  burned 
in,  as  before  described,  in  a  special  fur- 
nace. I>y  means  of  stencil  plates  of 
different  designs,  and  muslin  and  lace 
of  different  patterns,  together  with  pig- 
ments of  various  hues,  very  beauti- 
ful glass  screens  can  be  produced, 
which  for  many  purposes  will  be  pre- 
ferred to  the  plain  opaque  glass  at 
present  manufactured. 

Artijicinl  Wood  for  Ornamental  Pur- 
poses.  Mix  very  fine  sawdust  with  bul- 
locks' blood  and  subject  the  paste  to 
hydraulic  pressure.  Great  varieties  of 
articles,  having  the  appearance  of  the 
most  beautiful  ebony  carvings,  can  be 
thus  pressed  in  strong,  suitable  moulds. 
This  process  may  also  be  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  brushes.  The  horse- 
hair is  set  into  the  paste  while  it  is  still 
soft.  This  is  then  covered  with  a  per- 
forated plate  to  allow  the  passage  of  the 
hair.  Pressure  is  now  applied  whereby 
brushes  of  one  piece  are  produced 
which  are  more  durable  and  cheaper 
than  those  manufactured  by  the  old 
process.  [A  composition  of  this  char- 
acter, called  by  its  inventor  "  hseniosite," 
is  largely  utilized  in  this  country  for 
the  production  of  door-knobs  and  other 
articles.  W.] 

Use  of  Wood  Tar  for  Architect i/ r>tf 
Decorations.  Prepare  a  mass  by  melt- 
ing together  80  parts  of  wood  tar,  20  of 
pine  rosin,  and  5  of  caoutchouc.  Add 
to  this  a  sufficient  quantity  of  chalk, 
marl,  burned  clay,  or  a  mixture  of  these 
earths,  to  give  it  the  necessary  consist- 
ency. The  moulds  employed  for  shap- 
ing the  mass  into  such  'architectural 
ornaments  for  which  formerly  plaster 
of  Paris  and  stone  were  used,  must  be 
oiled  or  greased  before  the  mass,  which 
should  be  somewhat  heated,  is  pressed 
into  them.  Ffags  for  sidewalks  or 
tiles  for  roofs  may  also  be  produced 
from  this  mass.  It  can  be  readily 
painted  with  any  desired  color. 

To  Produce  Vmuments  from  Wood 
Mass.  A  cheap  composition  for  mould- 
ing mirror  and  picture-frames,  rosettes, 
arabesques,  etc.,  is  made  of  sawdust 
and  glue  with  the  addition  of  other 
suitable  substances.  The  sawdust 


should  be  sifted  to  remove  coarse  parti- 
cles. Boil  5  parts  of  good  furniture 
glue  and  1  of  isinglass  in  such  a 
quantity  of  water  that  the  fluid  in  cool- 
ing does  not  form  an  actual  jelly. 
Strain  it  through  a  cloth  and,  while 
hot,  mix  it  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
sawdust  to  form  a  quite  stiff  paste. 
Press  this  carefully  with  the  fingers 
into  the  moulds,  "which  should  be 
greased  with  oil,  place  an  oiled  plate 
or  plunger  over  it,  load  this  down  with 
weights,  or  place  the  whole  under  a 
press.  "When  the  mass  in  the  moulds 
is  about  half  dry,  remove  the  moisture 
which  has  been  pressed  out,  take  the 
ornaments  out  by  inverting  the  moulds 
upon  a  board,  and  allow  them  to  be- 
come entirely  dry,  when  they  may  be 
gilded  or  bronzed.  If  the  ornaments 
are  to  be  fastened  upon  oblique  surfaces 
they  must  be  bent  and  laid  on  before 
they  are  entirely  dry. 

The  mass  may  be  made  of  various 
components.  Gum  tragacanth  may  be 
added  to  the  glue,  and  pulverized  chalk 
and  similar  substances  to  the  sawdust. 
Mixtures  containing  very  little  or  no 
sawdust  are  also  used  for  the  same 
purpose.  We  give  in  the  following  a 
few  receipts  for  such  compositions : 

I.  Dissolve  13  parts  of  glue  in  the 
necessary  quantity  of  water ;   then  stir 
into  it  4  parts  of  pulverized  litharge,  8 
of  white  lead,  1  of  fine  sawdust,  and  10 
of  plaster  of  Paris. 

II.  Mix  plaster  of  Paris  and  sawdust 
and  form  a  paste  of  the  required  con- 
sistency by  adding  glue  water. 

III.  Liquefy  2  parts  of  glue  in  2  of 
linseed-oil ;  then  melt  1  part  of  black 
pitch  in  2  of  oil  of  turpentine  ;  mix  the 
two  solutions  together  and  add  2  parts 
of  sawdust,  2  of  whiting,  and  2  of  colco- 
thar. 

IV.  Mix  8  parts  of  whiting,  4  of  fine 
sifted  sawdust  and  1  of  pulverized  lin- 
seed-oil  cake,  and  knead  the  mixture 
into  a  paste  with  a  strong  solution  of 
glue. 

V.  Melt  together  4  parts  of  turpen- 
tine and  1  of  white  pitch,  and  mix  it, 
while  hot,  with  4  parts  of  glue  boiled 
thick.     To  this  mixture  add  gradually 
8  parts  of  whiting,  4  of  fine  shavings  or 
sanders  wood,  and  1  of  copal  varnish, 
and  knead  the  whole  thoroughly.     A 
thick  solution  of  asphaltuni  in  turpen- 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


tine  may  be  used  instead  of  the  copal 
varnish. 

The  two  masses  given  under  III.  and 
V.  must  be  kneaded  before  they  are 
pressed. 

VI.  Knead  5  parts  of  chalk  with  1 
of  glue,  and  add  oil  of  turpentine  to  the 
mixture.     In  working  the  mass  a  suffi- 
cient quantify  of  linseed-oil  varnish  is 
add..jd  to  prevent  it  from  sticking  to  the 
hands. 

VII.  The   potato    paste   consists   of 
potatoes  boiled  in  water  or  by  steam 
until  done.     They  are  then  mashed  fine 
and  mixed  with  sawdust,  peat  dust,  or 
pulverized    tan,   and    worked    into    a 
pliant  dough. 

To  Fasten  Leather  Ornaments,  etc., 
upon  Metal.  Digest  1  part  of  crushed 
nut-galls  for  6  hours  with  8  of  distilled 
water  and  strain  the  mass.  Soak  glue 
in  its  own  weight  of  water  for  24  hours 
and  then  dissolve  it.  The  warm  infu- 
sion of  galls  is  spread  upon  the  leather 
and  the  glue  solution  on  the  roughened 
surface  of  the  warm  metal ;  the  moist 
leather  is  pressed  upon  it  and  then 
dried,  when  it  adheres  so  that  it  cannot 
be  removed  without  tearing. 

To  Decorate  Tin  with  Copper  Plates 
and  Lithographs.  Prepare  a  printing- 
ink  of  linseed  oil  and  lampblack  and 
apply  it  to  the  etched  parts  of  the 
plate  after  it  has  been  heated.  The 
superfluous  ink  is  wiped  off  and  the 
plate  cleaned  with  lye.  Dampened 
paper  is  laid  upon  the  plate  and  cov- 
ered with  a  cloth  folded  several  times 
and  pressed.  The  paper  is  carefully 
removed,  moistened,  and  laid  upon  the 
tin,  upon  which  the  picture  is  imprinted 
by  means  of  a  small  cloth-covered  roller, 
and  the  paper  removed.  The  same 
process  is  used  for  lithographs.  The 
decorated  plates  are  heated  in  an  oven 
to  18-;0  F.,  and  remain  from  12  to  18 
hours,  when  they  are  coated  with  a 
solution  of  copal  lacquer,  varnish,  oil 
of  turpentine,  and  alkanet  (coloring 
matter  obtained  from  the  roots  of  An- 
chusa  Tinctoria],  and  placed  in  an  oven 
(280.4°  F.)  and  kept  for  12  hours. 

By  properly  regulating  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  oven,  every  desired  color  of 
silver-white,  brass,  gold,  tombac,  etc., 
can  be  obtained  by  the  use  of  alkanet. 

Impressions  of  Flowers  on  Glass. 
Gurn  the  articles  and  fasten  them  on 


the  glass.  The  glass  is  then  coated 
with  a  warm  mixture  of  oil,  tallow,  and 
wax,  and  when  this  is  dry  the  articles 
are  removed  and  the  glass  exposed  to 
the  action  of  hydrofluoric  gas.  Solution 
of  hydrofluoric  acid  in  water  may  also 
be  poured  over  the  glass,  or  the  plate 
may  be  covered  with  a  paste  of  fluor- 
spar and  sulphuric  acid.  The  designs 
may  then  be  colored  by  burning  the 
colors  in  in  a,  furnace. 


DENTIFRICES  AND  MOUTH  WASHES. 

American  Tooth  Powder.  Mix  the 
following  ingredients,  which  should  be 
finely  powdered : 

Coral 250  parts. 

Cuttle  bone  (ossa  sepia)      ....  250  ' ' 

Dragon  blood i!50  " 

Burnt  alum 120  " 

Red  sanders  wood 120  " 

Orris  root 250  " 

Cloves 15  ' 

Cinnamon 15  ' 

Vanilla  rubbed  with  sugar    ...  4  " 

Rosewood 15  " 

Piuks 250  " 

Asiatic  Dentifrice.    Powder  and  mix : 

I.  II. 

Parts. 

Prepared  corals     120  Bole  .     .     . 

Venetian  red             9  Chalk     .     . 

Ochre    ...          15  Ochre      .     . 

Pumice  stone          15  Pumice  stone 

Musk    ...        Tgj5  Musk 


Parts. 

3 

2 

1 

1 
trace. 


Cartwright's  Tooth  Powder.  Powder 
and  mix : 

Prepared  chalk 30  parts. 

Orris  root 20     " 

Castile  soap 2     " 

Deschamp's  Alkaline  Tooth  Poirder. 
Powder  as  fine  as  possible  and  mix : 

Sugar 30  parta 

"Arood  charcoal 30    " 

Prtrnv'aH  bark 15     " 

(/••earn  of  tartar 5     " 

Cinnamon 1.5  " 

Desch amp's  Acid  Tooth  Powder.  Pow- 
der and  mix : 

Venetian  talc 120  parts. 

Sodium  bicarbonate 30     « 

Carmine T%  part. 


And  add : 
Oil  of  mint 


15  drops 


DYEING  WOOLLEN  AND  COTTON  GOODS,  ETC. 


95 


Tooth    Powder.      Powder 


Charcoal 
and  mix : 

"Willow-wood  charcoal 120  parts. 

Peruvian  bark 120     " 

Cloves 2     " 

Circassian  Tooth  Powder.  Powder 
and  mix : 

Prepared  buck's  horn 60  parts. 

Potassium  sulphate 00 

"White  cuttle  bone 250 

Orris  root 2f»0 

Yellow  sanders  wood 30 

Florentine  lac 90 

And  add : 

Oil  of  rosewood 1  part. 

Red  Tooth  Powder.  Powder  and 
mix: 

Round  lake 5  parts. 

Onlinary  alum 24  " 

Pumice  stone 33  " 

Pre-pared  cuttle  bone 33  " 

Magnesia  alba .  16  " 

Hufeland's  Tooth  Powder,  which  may 
be  especially  recommended  for  diseased 
gums,  is  prepared  by  mixing  and  pow- 
dering : 

Sanders  wood 200  parts. 

Peruvian  bark 25     " 

Oil  of  cloves 1  part. 

Paris  Tooth  Powder.  Convert  the 
following  ingredients  into  an  impalpa- 
ble powder  and  mix : 

Dragon  blood 16. 5  parts. 

Cuttle  bone 125 

Cream  of  tartar 6^.5     " 

Orris  root 125 

Prepared  buck's  horn     ....      66.5     " 

And  add : 

Oil  of  clores 15  drops. 

Mouth  Wash  for  Strengthening  the 
Teeth  and  Hardening  the  Gums.  Pow- 
der and  mix  myrrh,  camphor,  Peruvian 
bark,  each  1  ounce,  and  digest  them  for 
a  few  days  in  1  pound  of  spirit  of  wine. 
Then  strain  through  a  cloth  and  filter. 
Use  a  teaspoonful  daily  for  rinsing  the 
mouth. 

Month  Wash  a  gainst  Toothache.  Cut 
in  pieces  and  rub  fine  4  J  drachms  of  the 
root  of  Spanish  camomile  (ant hem  is 
pyrethrum)  and  2J  drachms  of  sal- 
ammoniac.  Pour  2J  ounces  each  of 
vinegar  and  lavender  water  over  the 
above  mixture,  in  a  glass  flask,  and  let 
it  digest  for  12  hours,  and  filter.  Hold 


a  teaspoonful  in  the  mouth  as  long  as 
possible. 

Antiseptic  Mouth  Paste.  Salicylic 
acid*  30  grains,  purified  honey  1  ounce. 

Kolbe's  Mouth  Wash. 

Salicylic  acid 12  parta, 

Alcohol  (96  per  cent.) 315     " 

Distilled  water 60     " 

Oil  of  wintei  green  (ol.  gmtUheriie)  10  to  15  dropg. 
Essence  of  orange  flowers      ...       15    " 

Color  with  tincture  of  cochineal. 

Hager'sRed  Tooth  Powder.  Sodium 
sal  icy  late  2|  drachms,  sugar  of  milk, 
sodium  bicarbonate,  orris  root,  red  san- 
ders  wood,  each  Hi  drachms,  and  oil 
of  peppermint  15  drops. 

1  lager's  Tooth  Paste.  Two  and  three- 
quarter  drachms  sodium  salicylate,  30 
grains  sodium  bicarbonate,  H  ounces 
each  of  powdered  talc  and  powdered 
Castile  soap,  carmine  4^  grains,  20  drops 
peppermint,  5i  drachms  glycerine,  and 
5i  drachms  diluted  spirit  of  wine  are 
made  into  a  paste. 

Quillaya  Dentifrice.  The  following 
is  one  of  the  best  of  modern  dentifrices, 
as  it  not  only  cleanses  the  teeth  thor- 
oughly, but  also  refreshes  the  mouth  : 

Quillaya  saponaria 4  ounces. 

Glycerine 3      " 

Diluted  alcohol 33      " 

Oil  of  wintergreen  (ol.  ganMterix)  .  20  drops. 

Oil  of  peppermint 20      ' 

The  quillaya  saponaria  is  macerated 
in  a  mixture  of  the  glycerine  and  alco- 
hol, and  then  filtered  over  a  small 
quantity  of  magnesia  which  has  been 
mixed  with  the  oils.  A  finer  prepara- 
tion is  obtained  in  this  manner  than  by 
macerating  the  quillaya  in  alcohol  and 
then  adding  the  glycerine. 


DYEING  WOOLLEN  AND  COTTON 
GOODS  AND  YARNS,  SILK,  STRAW 
HATS,  FELT  HATS,  KID  GLOVES, 
HORSEHAIR,  ETC.,  ETC.  MORDANTS. 

SILK.  Cleansing  of  Old  Silk  to  be 
Dyed.  Boil  2  pounds  of  the  silk  in  3i 
ounces  of  crystallized  soda  dissolved  in 

*  Benzoic  or  boracic  acid,  bei?)g  more  soluble 
in  water  than  salicylic  acid,  is  preferred  by 
many  as  a  substitute  in  all  tooth  powders  and 
pastes  in  which  salicylic  acid  is  prescribed. 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


a  sufficient  quantity  of  water,  aud  iiext 
in  soap  aud  water. 

Black.  Let  the  material  remain  in 
a  mordant  of  solution  of  nitrate  of 
iron  of  40°  Beaume  for  •}  hour ;  then 
rinse  and  dye  it  in  a  decoction  of  31 
pounds  of  logwood  and  1  pound  of  fus- 
tic. It  remains  in  the  dye-bath  for 
i  hour. 

Blue  (Raymond's).  Mordant  with 
solution  of  nitrate  of  iron  of  1°  to  2° 
Beaume,  rinse  the  material,  place  it  in  a 
hot  soap  bath,  and  rinse  again ;  then  it 
is  dyed  with  prussiate  of  potasli  and 
sulphuric  acid.  It  is  then  rinsed, 
brightened  in  cold  water  containing 
some  spirit  of  sal-ammoniac,  and  finally 
rinsed, 

Brown  (Fast  with  Madder).  Mor- 
dant in  a  mixture  of  3  parts  of  acetate 
of  alumina  and  2  of  acetate  of  iron, 
each  5°  Beaume.  Then  rinse  and  dry 
the  material  and  dye  with  madder. 

Crimson,  (Dark,  with  Cochineal  and 
Brazil  Wood).  Mordant  with  acetate 
of  alumina  of  6°  Beaume,  to  which  1  to 
1J  ounces  of  blue  vitriol  dissolved  in 
water  have  been  added ;  then  winch 
and  dry  the  material,  cleanse  it  in  a 
bath  of  bran  and  chalk,  and  dye  it  in  a 
hot,  but  not  boiling,  decoction  of  31 
pounds  of  Brazil  wood,  13  ounces  of 
cochineal,  and  1  pound  of  wheat  bran. 
It  remains  in  the  bath  for  1  hour,  when 
it  is  rinsed  in  a  bath  of  spirit  of  sal- 
ammoniac. 

Drab  (Fast).  Mordant  with  a  cold 
decoction  of  3J  pounds  of  sulphuric 
acid,  8J  ounces  of  blue  vitriol,  a  like 
quantity  of  common  salt,  and  4V  ounces 
of  purified  tartar.  Squeeze  and  rinse 
and  then  dye  in  water  not  hotter  than 
the  hand  can  bear,  which  contains  a 
decoction  of  fustic  (for  yellowish  gray), 
or  decoction  of  gall-nuts  ( for  dark  gray), 
or  of  bablah  (for  greenish  gray). 

Gray.  Place  the  silk  in  a*  solution 
of  2  pounds  of  alum,  and  let  it  remain 
in  it  for  6  to  8  hours.  Then  rinse  it, 
and  dye  in  a  bath  containing  indigo  ex- 
tract and  decoction  of  logwood,  allowing 
it  to  remain  for  1  hour. 

Red  (Fast  ivith  Madder).  Mordant 
with  acetate  of  alumina  of  5°  Beau  me. 
Winch,  dry,  and  cleanse  the  silk  with 
bran  and  chalk.  Then  dye  in  a  bath 
of  6^  pounds  of  madder,  8J  ounces  of 
sumach,  and  1£  pounds  of  bran,  allow- 


ing it  to  remain  for  li  hours,  when  it 
is  brightened  by  boiling  gently  for  i 
hour  with  31  pounds  of  Castile  soap, 
1  pound  of  bran,  raid  2  ounces  of  solu- 
tion of  nitro-muriate  of  tin. 

Rose-red  (with  (Jarthainiwe).  Tru- 
rate  1  drachm  of  carthamine  with  1J 
ounces  of  alum  free  from  iron,  and  dye 
with  the  mixture  dissolved  in  water. 
The  silk  is  worked  for  15  minutes  in 
the  bath,  and  then  in  a  bath  acidulated 
with  wine  vinegar. 

Rose-red  (with  Cochineal).  Prepare 
a  mordant  of  2  pounds  of  alum,  let  the 
silk  remain  in  this  for  6  to  8  hours,  then 
rinse  it  and  dye  (as  hot  as  the  hand  can 
bear)  with  1  ounce  of  cochineal,  and 
rinse. 

Scarlet'(with  Cochineal  and  Brazil 
Wood).  Mordant  with  acetate  of  alu- 
mina of  6°  Beaume ;  winch  and  dry. 
Then  work  the  silk  in  a  hot,  but  not 
boiling,  decoction  of  31  pounds  of  bran 
and  8i  ounces  of  chalk ;  rinse,  and  dye 
with  31  pounds  of  Brazil  wood  and  8J 
ounces  of  cochineal.  An  addition  of  1 
pound  of  bran  makes  the  dye  more 
brilliant,  but  somewhat  lighter. 

Violet  (Fast).  Mordant  with  a  cold 
solution  of  31  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid, 
8%  ounces  of  blue  vitriol,  a  like  quantity 
of  common  salt,  and  4i  ounces  of  puri- 
fied tartar.  Winch,  dry,  and  cleanse 
with  bran  and  chalk.  Then  dye  in  a 
nearly  hot  bath  of  6£  pounds  of  madder 
and  U  pounds  of  bran,  allowing  the 
silk  to  remain  for  1  hour. 


WOOLLEN  GOODS  AND  YARNS. 

Blue  (Dark).  Boil  the  material  for 
1  hour  in  a  solution  of  21  ounces  of 
alum  in  hot  water,  then  take  it  out  and 
throw  away  the  bath.  Now  boil  in  the 
same  boiler  5|  ounces  of  logwood 
in  pure  water  for  •£  hour;  then  lift 
the  bag  which  contained  the  logwood 
out,  and  place  the  material,  which  has 
been  previously  washed,  into  the  de- 
coction, work  it  for  £  hour,  and  then 
let  it  boil  for  *  hour  longer.  The 
bath  is  now  cooled  off  by  adding  cold 
water,  the  material  lifted  out,  and  21 
ounces  of  potash  are  dissolved  in  the 
bath,  when  the  material  is  worked  in  it 
until  it  has  assumed  a  beautiful  blue 
color. 


DYEING  WOOLLEN  AND  COTTON  GOODS,  ETC. 


97 


Bine  (Dark  Fugitive  Color}.  The 
goods  are  mordanted  pale  blue  and 
washed.  Boil  clear  water,  and  add  5* 
ounces  of  blue  vitriol,  U  ounces  of  green 
vitriol,  1  pound  of  alum,  13i  ounces  of 
crude  tartar,  2.}  ounces  of  tin  salt,  and 
1  ounce  of  crude  nitric  acid.  Boil  the 
goods  in  the  mixture  for  1  hour.  They 
are  then  lifted  out,  allowed  to  stand  for 

I  day,  and  washed.      Clean   water  is 
then  heated  in  a  boiler,  2  /  pints  of  ex- 
tract of  logwood  added,  and  the  goods 
worked  in  this  for  i  hour,  during  which 
the  heat  is  raised  to  the  boiling  point. 
From  27£  to  33    pounds   of   woollen 
goods  can  be  dyed  by  the  above  pro- 
cess. 

Gens  d'Armes  Blue  on  loose  Wool, 
Yarns,  and  Piece  Goods.  Boil  for  li 
hours  440  pounds  of  wool  with  88 
pounds  of  alum,  8*  pounds  of  chromate 
of  potash,  8*  pounds  of  tin  salt,  and  (5V 
pounds  of  sulphuric  acid.  The  next 
day  dye  with  65  pounds  of  indigo-car- 
mine/22  to  26  pounds  of  logwood,  and 
13  pounds  of  common  salt.  Let  the 
wool  boil  for  IV  hours  in  the  bath. 

Brown  (Chestnut).  Boil  in  pure 
water  for  5  minutes  £  ounce  of  madder, 
a  like  quantity  of  sumach  or  i  ounce  of 
gall-nuts,  i  ounce  of  tartar,  and  1J  to 
2{  ounces  of  sanders  wood.  Place  the 
goods  in  the  bath,  and  let  them  boil  for 

I 1  hours.    Then  lift  them  out,  cool  the 
bath  by  adding  cold  water;  then  dis- 
solve i-  ounce  of  green   vitriol  in   it, 
and  work  the  wool  in  this  for  £  hour 
longer. 

Brown  (Coffee}.  Boil  in  pure  water 
for  5  minutes  4  >  ounces  of  sanders  wood 
2|  ounces  of  sumach  or  gall-nuts,  and  1 
ounce  of  green  vitriol.  The  bath  is 
cooled  off  by  adding  cold  water,  when 
the  goods  are  placed  in  it  and  boiled 
slowly  for  half  an  hour,  when  they  are 
taken  out  and  the  fire  is  extinguished  ; 
2\  ounces  of  green  vitriol  are  then 
dissolved  in  the  bath,  in  which  the 
goods  aro  worked  for  J  of  an  hour, 
when  they  are  cooled  off  and  rinsed. 

Brown  (Dark).  Boil  in  water  4J 
ounces  of  sanders  wood  and  2i  ounces 
of  logwood,  add  2i  ounces  of  sumach  or 
gall-nuts,  and  1  ounce  of  green  vitriol. 
Cool  the  mixture  by  adding  cold  water, 
then  place  the  goods  in  it  and  let  them 
boil  slowly  for  •£  hour,  when  they 
are  taken  out.  Should  the  dye  not 


be  dark  enough,  add  1  ounce  more  of 

i  green  vitriol,   and  repeat    the  opera- 

I  tion. 

Jjrmcn  (Grayish).  Boil  1  ounce  of 
sanders  wood,  a  like  quantity  of  mad- 

|  der,  and  li  ounces  of  gall-nuts,  or  3 
ounces  of  sumach.  Place  the  goods  in 
the  decoction  and  boil  them  for  1  hour. 
Then  lift  them  out,  dissolve  1  ounce  of 
green  vitriol  in  the  bath,  replace  the 
goods  in  it,  and  work  them,  without 
allowing  them  to  boil,  until  they  are 
dyed  sufficiently  dark. 

Brown  (A'nt).  Fill  a  small  bag  with 
4J  ounces  of  fustic  and  li  ounces  of  log- 
wood, and  boil  them.  When  the  color- 
ing matter  has  been  extracted  lift  the 
bag  out  and  add  li  ounces  of  madder 
and  a  like  quantity  of  sanders  wood; 
then  place  the  goods  m  the  bath  and 
let  them  boil  for  14  hours,  when  they 
are  lifted  out.  The  bath  is  now  cooled 
off  with  cold  water  and  \  ounce  of  green 
vitriol  is  added.  The  wool  is  worked 
in  it  until  it  is  sufficiently  dyed. 

Brown  (Olive).  Treat  the  following 
ingredients  in  the  same  manner  as  for 
nut  brown  :  Seven  ounces  of  fustic,  21 
ounces  of  logwood,  1  ounce  of  gall-nuts, 
2i  ounces  of  madder,  and  3->  ounces  of 
tartar.  As  soon  as  the  tartar  is  dis- 
solved place  the  goods  in  the  bath,  and, 
later  on,  when  it  is  somewhat  cooled 
off,  add  1J  ounces  of  green  vitriol  and 
work  the  wool  in  the  vat  until  it  has 
assumed  the  desired  shade. 

Brown  (Sanders  Wood,  Fast).  Thor- 
oughly extract  4£  pounds  of  rasped 
sanders  wood  i  n  water.  Place  the  wood, 
together  with  the  extract,  in  a  boiler, 
add  2i  pounds  of  sumach  and  2i  pounds 
of  fustic  liquor,  and  let  the  bath  boil 
for  i  hour.  Then  place  the  wool  in 
the  bath,  work  it  thoroughly,  and  let 
it  boil  for  1A  hours.  The  wool  is  then 
lifted  out,  the  bath  cooled  off  by  adding 
cold  water,  and  1  pound  of  green  vitriol 
added,  wrhen  the  wool  is  placed  back 
into  the  bath,  thoroughly  worked  in 
it,  and  boiled  for  £  hour  more.  It 
is  then  lifted  out,  4i  ounces  more  of 
green  vitriol  and  a  bucketful  of  urine 
are  added,  and  the  wool  worked  in  this 
without  allowing  it  to  boil. 

Chamois.  Triturate  i  ounce  of  an- 
notto  with  water  and  add  to  this  fluid 
\  ounce  of  potash.  Let  the  bath  boii 

i  for  5  minutes  and  then  work  the  wool 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


in  it.  Now  dissolve  in  warm  water  If 
ounces  of  alum,  and  work  the  wool  for 
a  few  minutes  in  this  solution. 

Gray  (Ash).  Boil  f  ounce  of  gall- 
nuts  in  a  suitable  quantity  of  water  for 
J  of  an  hour.  Then  dissolve  in  it  i 
ounce  of  tartar,  place  the  wool  in  the 
bath  and  let  it  boil  for  1  hour,  fre- 
quently stirring  it  in  the  meanwhile, 
when  it  is  lifted  out.  The  bath  is  then 
thoroughly  cooled,  1£  ounces  of  green 
vitriol  are  added,  and  the  wool  worked 
in  it  until  it  has  assumed  the  desired 
shade  of  color. 

Gray  (Bluish).  Boil  12  ounces  of 
gall-nuts,  4£  ounces  of  tartar,  and  i 
fluid  drachm  of  indigo  tincture.  Place 
the  cloth,  previously  moistened,  in  this 
mixture  and  let  it  boil  for  H  hours, 
with  frequent  working.  It  is  then  lifted 
out  and  the  bath  compounded  with  4V 
ounces  of  green  vitriol  and  the  cloth 
worked  in  it  for  i  hour  longer. 

Gray  (Dark).  Put  1  pound  of  log- 
wood and  13i  ounces  of  sumac  in  a 
small  bag  and  boil  them  for  i  hour  in 
a  boiler  full  of  water.  Then  take  the 
bag  out,  place  13  pounds  of  cloth,  pre- 
viously moistened  with  hot  water,  in 
the  bath,  and  let  it  boil  for  1  hour, 
when  it  is  lifted  out.  The  bath  is  then 
cooled  by  adding  cold  water ;  8i  ounces 
of  greeu  vitriol  are  added,  and  the 
goods  worked  in  it  for  £  hour,  and  then 
boiled  until  they  have  acquired  the  de- 
sired shade. 

Gray  (Fast  Dark).  The  cloth  is  first 
grounded  blue  with  indigo  and  then 
boiled  in  a  solution  of  85  ounces  of  blue 
vitriol,  4fc  ounces  of  tartar,  and  some 
indigo  tincture. 

Gray  (Light).  Rub  1  ounce  of  ver- 
digris as  fine  as  possible  with  3i  pounds 
of  good  vinegar;  let  the  fluid  stand 
over  night  and  boil  it  the  next  day  with 
water.  Add  to  the  solution  1  ounce  of 
gum  Arabic  and  work  the  goods  in  it  un- 
til they  have  acquired  the  desired  shade. 

Gray  (Silver).  Boil  for  10  minutes 
i  ounce  of  tartar,  J  ounee  of  gall-nuts, 
and  1  drachm  of  blue  vitriol.  Work 
the  wool  in  this  bath  and  then  let  it 
boil  until  the  desired  color  has  been 
obtained. 

Green  (Olive).  The  goods  are  first 
grounded  light  blue.  One  pound  of 
fustic  is  then  tied  in  a  small  bag,  placed 
iu  a  boiler,  and  boiled  for  1  hour,  when 


it  is  taken  out  and  3i  ounces  of  bin* 
vitriol,  2i  ounces  of  tartar,  3i  ounces  of 
madder,  and  1|  ounces  of  logwood 
liquor  are  dissolved  in  the  bath.  The 
goods  are  then  placed  in  the  bath  and 
boiled  for  1  hour,  when  they  are  lifted 
out.  Four  and  one-half  ounces  of 
crushed  gall-nuts  are  now  added  to  the 
liquor  and  the  goods  boiled  in  this  for 
i  hour  more,  when  they  are  taken  out. 
The  bath  is  now  compounded  with  If 
ounces  of  green  vitriol  and  some  urine, 
and  the  goods  are  worked  in  this  until 
they  are  sufficiently  dyed. 

Green  (Brownish-olive).  Boil  2J 
ounces  of  fustic  and  1  ounce  of  madder, 
then  add  to  the  fluid  2i  ounces  of  tar- 
tar and  1  drachm  of  gall-nuts.  Place 
the  goods  in  the  bath,  let  them  boil  for 
li  hours,  take  them  out  and  cool  them 
off  in  the  open  air.  The  bath  is  cooled 
by  adding  cold  water,  and  compounded 
with  i  ounce  of  green  vitriol,  when  the 
goods  are  placed  back  in  it,  worked  for 
I  hour,  cooled  off,  and  rinsed. 

Lilac.  Dissolve  3  ounce  of  crystal- 
lized tartar  and  2J  ounces  of  alum  in 
hot  water,  add  i  ounce  of  pulverized 
cochineal  to  the  solution,  work  the 
goods  in  the  bath  for  £  hour,  and  then 
boil  them  for  i  hour. 

Orange.  Put  1  pound  of  quercitron 
bark  in  a  small  bag  and  boil  it  for 
i  hour  in  a  boilerful  of  water.  Then 
add  to  the  fluid  1  pound  of  alum,  £ 
ounce  of  tartar,  and  2|  ounces  of  tin 
salt.  Boil  the  cloth  in  the  bath  for  i 
hour ;  cool  the  bath  off,  work  the  cloth 
once  more,  let  it  again  boil  for  half  an 
hour,  and  then  wash  it  out.  Now  boil 
S.T  ounces  of  madder  with  water,  and 
work  the  cloth  in  the  bath  with  con- 
stantly increasing  temperature. 

Yellow  (Dark).  Place  3i  pounds  of 
quercitron  bark  in  a  bag,  boil  it  in  a 
tin  boilerful  of  water  for  i  hour.  Then 
add  2  pounds  of  alum,  1  ounce  of  tartar, 
and  8S  ounces  of  tin  salt.  Now  boil 
the  goods  in  the  bath  for  8  to  10  min- 
utes, when  they  are  taken  out.  Cool 
:the  bath  by  adding  cold  water,  work 
the  wool  once  more  in  it,  and  then  let 
it  boil  for  i  hour. 

Yellow  (Sulphur).  Go  through  the 
same  process  as  for  dark  yellow,  but 
add,  when  that  is  finished,  quercitron 
bark  and  solution  of  tin  to  the  bath  ami 
let  the  wool  boil  in  it  for  i  hour. 


DYEING  WOOLLEN  AND  COTTON  GOODS,  ETC. 


Yellow  (with  Weld).  Dissolve  5i 
pounds  of  alum  in  a  corresponding 
quantity  of  water  and  boil  the  woollen 
goods  in  this  for  2  hours,  when  they  are 
put  in  a  cool  place,  where  they  remain 
for  1  day  and  are  then  washed.  Now 
sew  31  pounds  of  good  French  weld  in 
a  bag,  boil  it  in  a  boilerful  of  water, 
cool  the  liquor,  and  work  the  wool 
thoroughly  in  this,  without  allowing  it 
to  boil. 

COTTON  GOODS  AND  YARNS. 

Black.  For  10  pounds  of  yarn.  Pre- 
pare a  lukewarm  bath  of  1  pound  of 
dry  extract  of  logwood  and  12  quarts  of 
water.  Dissolve  further  2  pounds  of 
dry  extract  of  logwood  in  2  gallons  of 
water.  Now  dye  2  pounds  of  the  yarn 
in  this  dye-bath,  take  it  out,  wring  it, 
and  let  it  dry  in  the  open  air.  One- 
quarter  of  the  first  solution  is  then 
added  to  the  bath,  and  the  second  £  of 
the  yarn  treated  therein.  The  same 
process  is  repeated  with  the  remaining 
yarn  until  all  the  solution  has  been 
used. 

No.  II.  Prepare  a  bath  by  dissolving 
8|  ounces  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  2£ 
ounces  of  crystallized  soda  in  2  gallons 
of  water.  After  the  first  £  part  of  the 
yarn  has  been  taken  from  the  dye-bath, 
1  of  the  solution  is  added  to  it ;  the  next 
portion  of  the  yarn  is  dyed,  and  so  on. 

Brwon  (Chocolate).  For  10  pounds. 
Boil  the  material  for  1  hour  with  li 
pounds  of  sanders  wood,  8J  ounces  of 
gall-nuts,  1J  ounces  of  extract  of  log- 
wood, 51  ounces  of  prepared  catechu, 
and  3i  ounces  of  tartar.  After  boiling 
let  it  remain  in  the  bath  for  1  hour, 
then  add  a  solution  of  8f  ounces  of 
green  vitriol  and  If  ounces  of  blue  vit- 
riol ;  mix  them  intimately  with  the 
bath  and  place  the  material  in  it  for  1 
hour  longer,  when  it  is  taken  out  and 
rinsed. 

Chamois.  For  10  pounds.  Treat  the 
materials,  after  they  have  been  pre- 
pared for  dyeing,  in  a  warm  decoction 
of  4V  ounces  of  annotto  and  11  ounces  of 
potash  *  lift  them  out,  rinse,  and  then 
work  them  in  fresh  water  mixed  with 
sulphuric  acid,  and  rinse. 

Crimson.  For  10  pounds.  Eed  yarns 
are  boiled  in  clean  water.  Place  them 
in  a  bath  of  2  pounds  of  sumac.  Let 


them  remain  for  12  hours,  then  place 
them  in  a  bath  of  tin  salt  of  3°  Beaume. 
Allow  them  to  remain  for  1  hour,  when 
they  are  winched  and  brought  into  a 
bath  of  31  pounds  of  Brazil  wood.  Here 
they  remain  for  several  hours,  when 
they  are  winched  and  dried. 

Gold  Color  (Cotton  for  Fringes,  etc.). 
Boil,  with  constant  stirring,  8}  ounces 
of  sugar  of  lead  and  1  pound  of  litharge 
in  3  gallons  of  water.  After  the  fluid 
has  boiled  for  5  to  10  minutes  allow  it 
to  stand  quietly  until  a  precipitate  is 
deposited,  then  pour  the  fluid  off"  and 
mordant  the  yarn  in  this.  When  thor- 
oughly permeated  it  is  dried  at  a  uni- 
form heat,  and  then,  without  being 
washed,  dyed  in  a  bath  of  bichromate 
of  potash.  For  the  above-mentioned 
quantities  a  bath  is  used  of  8}  ounces 
of  bichromate  of  potash,  to  which  41 
ounces  of  nitric  acid  have  been  added. 
To  produce  a  perfectly  pure  chrome 
yellow  the  bath  must  be  entirely  clear. 
If  it  has  been  used  the  clear  liquor  must 
be  drawn  off  from  the  sediment.  As" 
soon  as  the  yarn  is  taken  from  the  bath 
it  is  washed  for  1  hour  in  a  stream  of 
running  water  to  remove  all  traces  of 
chrome  yellow  adhering  mechanically 
to  it.  To  produce  a  beautiful  golden 
lustre  dissolve  1  ounce  of  saffron  in  2 
pounds  of  spirit  of  wine  of  20°  Beaume^ 
and  add  to  the  solution  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  fruit  brandy  to  produce  the 
desired  shade.  As  a  general  rule  2 
minutes  are  sufficient  for  the  yarn  to 
remain  in  this  solution.  The  excessive 
moisture  is  wrung  out  and  the  yarn 
dried  in  the  shade  at  a  moderate  heat. 
The  yarn,  as  it  comes  from  the  safl'ron 
bath,  must  not  be  washed,  as  the  color 
becomes  dull  in  hard  water  containing 
lime  and  the  yarn  rough. 

Gray  (Silver).  Boil  the  yarn  in 
clean  water  and  bring  it  into  a  wooden 
vat  containing  hot  water  and  8|  ounces 
of  catechu  boiled  in  3V  quarts  of  clean 
water.  Work  the  yarn  in  this  bath 
for  i  hour  and  wring  it.  Now  fill 
a  vat  with  clean  cold  water;  add  to 
this  2  ounces  of  green  vitriol  dissolved 
in  hot  water.  Work  the  yarn  in  this 
until  it  has  acquired  the  desired  color, 
then  rinse  and  dry  it. 

Green  (Dark).  Boil  5£  pounds  of 
fustic  in  pure  water  for  f  of  an  hour,  and 
add  51  ounces  of  verdigris  dissolved  in 


too 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


water.  Treat  the  material  in  a  bath 
of  11  pounds  of  sumac,  and  place  it 
for  J  hour  in  the  liquor  heated  to 
190°  F.  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes ; 
then  lift  out  and  wring.  The  dyed 
material  is  brought  into  a  vat  contain- 
ing hot  water  and  extract  of  logwood 
and  worked  for  £  hour  at  190°  F.  and 
rinsed. 

Mineral  Green.  Prepare  a  lye  of 
caustic  potash  by  dissolving  in  a 
wooden  vat  1£  parts  of  potash  in  water 
and  gradually  adding  2J  parts  of 
feurned  lime  to  the  solution.  The 
liquor  is  then  thoroughly  stirred,  and 
allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  12  hours, 
when  the  clear  fluid  is  drawn  oiF  into  a 
vat  filled  with  cold  water.  Twenty-five 
parts  of  the  material  to  be  dyed  are 
worked  in  the  liquor  for  i  hour,  when 
it  is  winched,  and  dyed  in  a  hot  bath  to 
which  have  been  added  1£  parts  of  sul- 
phate of  copper  dissolved  in  hot  water ; 
here  it  remains  for  £  hour,  when  it 
is  winched  and  dried. 

Yellow.  Dissolve  1  ounce  of  sugar 
of  lead  and  £  ounce  of  alum  in  warm 
water ;  place  1  pound  of  material  in 
this  bath,  work  it  for  some  time,  and 
finish  the  dyeing  process  in  a  solution 
of  chromate  of  potash. 

Yellow  ( Chrome).  For  15  pounds  of 
yarn  or  cloth.  I.  Slack  6  pounds  of 
freshly  burned  lime  in  50  gallons  of 
water,  and  then  dissolve  3  pounds  of 
sugar  of  lead  in  the  liquor. 

II.  Stir  3  pounds  of  acetate  of  lead 
into  2  gallons  of  water  and  slake  6 
pounds  of  freshly  burned  lime  in  the 
liquor.  The  plumbiferous  lime  formed 
in  this  manner  is  brought  into  50  gal- 
lons of  water  and  the  fluid  allowed  to 
become  clear  by  standing,  when  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

The  cotton  material  is  then  moistened 
twice  in  succession  with  one  of  the 
above  fluids,  and,  while  still  moist, 
brought  into  a  bath  of  chromate  of 
potash.  This  gives  a  beautiful  chrome 
yellow  color. 

A  beautiful  green  is  obtained  by  dye- 
ing indigo-blue  cotton  goods  in  the 
above  manner. 

To  DYE  WOOL,  SILK,  AND  COTTON 
WITH  ANILINE  COLORS. 

Fuchsine  on  Wool.    In  using  aniline 


colors  it  is  of  the  greatest  advantage  to 
transform  them  by  dissolution  into  a 
very  much  diluted  fluid.  For  instance 
fuchsine,  soluble  in  water,  is  dissolved 
with  gradual  stirring  in  boiling  water 
in  the  proportion  of  2  pounds  of  crys- 
tallized fuchsine  in  60  gallons  of  water. 
The  resulting  solution  is  filtered  and 
used  for  dyeing.  The  wool,  uniformly 
moistened,  is  dyed  without  any  further 
preparation  in  a  very  clean,  tepid 
bath  of  85°  F.  to  which  some  solution 
of  fuchsine  is  added  from  time  to  time, 
and  the  temperature  raised  to  120°  F. 
Two  pounds  of  fuchsine,  soluble  in  alco- 
hol, is  gradually  dissolved  in  4  to  4£  gal- 
lons of  good  spirit  of  wine  of  90  per  cent., 
previously  heated  to  100°  to  120°  F., 
and  the  solution  used  for  printing  and 
dyeing.  For  printing  on  silk  and  wool 
the  ordinary  inspissations  are  used, 
such  as  gum,  etc.,  but  on  cotton  it  is 
necessary  to  use  albumen,  which  should 
always  be  preferred  to  its  substitutes. 

Fuchsine  on  Silk,  Bluish  Shade, 
One  of  the  above-mentioned  solutions 
of  fuchsine  is  added  to  a  cold  bath 
acidulated  with  acetic  or  tartaric  acid, 
and  the  silk  dyed  in  this,  with  slow 
addition  of  color,  until  the  desired 
shade  has  been  obtained.  If  less  bluish 
shades  are  desired,  no  acid  is  added  to 
the  bath. 

Fuchsine  on  Cotton.  Only  thorough- 
ly mordanted  cotton  can  be  well  and 
uniformly  dyed  with  fuchsine.  An  oil 
mordant,  as  for  Turkish  red,  is  excel- 
lent, but,  instead  of  this,  an  acid  mor- 
dant consisting  of  1  part  of  sulphuric 
acid  and  about  3  parts  of  olive  oil  may 
be  advantageously  used.  A  tannic 
acid  mordant  can  also  be  recommended. 
The  yarn  is  then  brought  into  a  solu- 
tion of  sumac  of  120°  F.,  then  into  a 
bath  of  stanuate  of  soda,  and  finally 
into  a  bath  containing  sulphuric  acid, 
when  it  is  washed  and  dyed  as  given 
above. 

Eosine  on  Woo/.  Eosine,  soluble  in 
water,  is  dissolved  in  hot  water,  and 
that,  soluble  in  alcohol,  in  spirit  of 
wine,  in  the  same  manner  as  fuchsine. 

Prepare  a  water  bath  of  85°  F.,  add 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  cosine  dis- 
solved in  water,  place  the  thoroughly 
moistened  wool  in  it  and  heat  to 
105°  F.  Then  add  alum  in  the  pro- 
portion of  1J  to  2|  ounces  to  2  pounds 


DYEING  WOOLLEN  AND  COTTON  GOODS,  ETC. 


101 


»f  wool,  bring  the  bath  slowly  to  the 
boiling  point  and  let  it  boil  for  about 
£  hour.  The  wool  is  then  finished  by 
thorough  washing. 

The  following  receipt  has  been 
thoroughly  tried  and  found  to  be  excel- 
lent :  For  80  pounds  of  wool  take  3 
pounds  of  tartar  and  2  pounds  of  cosine 
dissolved  and  filtered  through  a  cloth. 
Enter  the  moist  wool  and  let  it  boil 
slowly  for  f  hour.  The  wool  is  then 
lifted'  out,  2  pounds  of  chloride  of 
tin  is  dissolved  in  the  same  bath  and 
•  thoroughly  stirred.  The  wool  is  again 
placed  in  the  bath,  and  slowly  boiled 
for  i  hour  longer.  It  is  best  to  allow 
the  wool  to  cool  in  the  boiler. 

Eosine  on  tii/k.  Dye  in  a  boiling  soap 
bath  with  an  addition  of  an  organic 
acid. 

Eosineon  Cotton.  For  bluish  shades, 
the  cotton  is  placed  in  a  bath  of  cas- 
tile  soapsuds  of  120°  F.  and  allowed 
to  remain  in  it  for  i  hour.  It  is 
then  mordanted  for  \  hour  with  ni- 
trate of  lead  of  3°  Beaume,  then  thor- 
oughly washed,  and  finally  dyed  in 
a  bath  of  cosine  of  120°  F.  For  a 
yclloirish  shade  more  or  less  alum, 
according  to  the  tint  desired,  is  added 
to  the  bath  of  nitrate  of  lead.  Very  pure, 
soft  water  should  be  used  for  all  ball  is. 

Scarlet  and  Erythronint  on  \Yool. 
Dissolve  the  color  in  hot  water.  Then  | 
prepare  a  bath  of  120°  F.,  which  con- 
tains 10  pounds  of  alum  to  100  pounds 
of  wool,  and  place  the  wool  in  it.  After 
the  lapse  of  i  hour  add  the  color- 
ing matter,  bring  the  bath  slowly  to 
the  boiling  point,  and  let  the  wool  boil 
for  i  hour,  when  it  is  taken  out  and 
thoroughly  washed. 

Violet  on  Wool.  Two  pounds  of  ani- 
line violet  is  dissolved  with  slow  stir- 
ring in  6  to  8  gallons  of  spirit  of  wine, 
90  per  cent,  strong,  the  solution  heated 
to  105°  F.,  and  then  filtered.  The  wool 
is  dyed  in  a  weak  sulphuric  acid  bath 
of  105°  to  125°  F.,  to  which  the  dye- 
stuff  is  added.  The  bath  is  slowly 
brought  to  the  boiling  point.  A  more 
or  less  reddish  tint  can  be  given  by  an 
addition  of  sulphuric  acid. 

Violet  on  Silk.  The  silk  is  placed  in 
a  bath  of  105°  to  125°  F.,  slightly  acid- 
ulated with  sulphuric  acid,  and  the 
desired  shade  is  obtained  by  slowly 
adding  the  dye-stuff. 


Aniline  Blue  (Blue,  Light  Blue,  and 
Soluble  Blue).  The  color  is  dissolved 
in  the  same  manner  as  violet,  but  it  is 
advisable  to  take  more  spirit  of  wine. 
The  soluble  blue  is  dissolved  in  boiling 
water. 

On  Wool  and  Silk.  The  same  direc- 
tions hold  good  as  for  violet,  but  more 
alum  is  added  and  generally  more  sul- 
phuric acid.  A  clearerand  more  beauti- 
ful color  on  wool  is  obtained  by  boiling 
the  wool  first  with  chloride  of  tin  and 
alum.  Of  all  the  colors  mentioned 
here,  blue  is  the  most  difficult  to  dis- 
solve in  water,  and  as  the  fibres  do  not 
absorb  it  uniformly  it  is  requisite  that 
the  coloring  matter  should  be  added 
very  gradually. 

Cotton  is  dyed  in  a  bath  to  which 
acetate  of  alumina  has  been  added  as  a 
mordant.  The  acetate  of  alumina  is 
obtained  by  boiling  15  parts  of  sugar 
of  lead  and  20  of  sulphate  of  alumina 
with  100  of  water.  The  resulting  clear 
solution  is  used  as  a  mordant. 

Alkali  Blue.  Two  pounds  of  this  is 
dissolved  in  at  least  4  gallons  of  boiling 
water,  and  when  the  solution  is  com- 
plete 15  gallons  more  of  hot  water  are 
added  to  it. 

For  100  pounds  of  Wool.  Prepare 
a  bath  with  8i  pounds  of  borax,  heat  it 
to  105°  F.,  then  add  the  solution  of 
coloring  matter,  and  gradually  heat  to 
the  boiling  point.  The  wool  is  then 
washed  in  cold  water,  placed  in  a  luke- 
warm bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric 
acid,  and  heated  to  the  boiling  point. 
To  dye  according  to  sample,  dissolved 
coloring  matter  is  added  to  the  first 
bath  until  a  sample  of  the  wool,  taken 
from  this  bath  and  worked  in  a  boiling 
hot  acid  bath,  has  assumed  the  desired 
color. 

A  bath  of  waterglass  is  now  generally 
preferred  to  that  of  borax,  15  pounds 
of  it  being  required  for  100  pounds  of 
wool.  The  further  treatment  is  the 
same  as  with  borax. 

Light  Blue  on  Cotton.  For  100 
pounds.  The  cotton  is  soaped  and 
dried.  A  solution  of  2  pounds  of  alum, 
2  pounds  of  tartar  emetic,  and  6  pounds 
of  dissolved  calcined  soda  is  used  as  a 
mordant.  After  mordanting  the  cotton 
it  is  dyed  in  a  fresh  bath,  to  which 
diluted  sulphuric  acid  has  been  added 
the  temperature  being  gradually 


102 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


from  75°  F.  to  140°  F.  The  cotton 
should  be  cooled  off  in  the  bath. 

China-blue  on  Cotton.  The  color  is 
dissolved  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
blue  soluble  in  water.  Some  alum  is 
added  to  the  tepid  water-bath,  and  the 
cotton  dyed  by  heating  the  bath  to  the 
boiling  point  and  allowing  it  to  cool 
in  it. 

Dahlia  and  Primula.  These  colors 
are  soluble  in  water  and  in  alcohol. 
Those  soluble  in  water  are  dissolved  in 
the  same  manner  as  fuchsine,  but  those 
soluble  in  alcohol,  like  the  aniline 
violet.  The  wool  is  dyed  with  these 
solutions,  without  any  further  prepa- 
ration, at  85°  to  105°  F.,  and,  when 
finished,  worked  several  times  in  the 
boiling  bath.  Silk  is  dyed  with  the 
dissolved  and  filtered  coloring  matter 
in  a  bath  heated  to  85°  to  105°  F.,  to 
which  a  very  small  quantity  of  tartaric 
acid  or  some  sulphuric  acid  has  been 
added,  until  it  has  acquired  the  desired 
shade,  and  is  then  frequently  turned 
over  in  the  boiling  bath.  For  dyeing 
cotton,  acetate  of  alumina  is  added,  and 
the  goods  treated  in  the  same  manner  as 
given  for  blue. 

Methyl-violet.  This  is  soluble  in 
water.  The  dyeing  is  accomplished  by 
adding  acetic  acid,  or  some  other  or- 
ganic acid. 

Methyl  and  Emerald-green.  Dis- 
solve 2  pounds  of  green  powder  in  7  to 
8  gallons  of  lukewarm  water ;  add,  with 
constant  stirring,  some  acetic  acid,  and 
heat  the  solution  to  140°  F.  Boiling 
must  be  strictly  avoided.  Then  dis- 
solve 2  pounds  of  concentrated  green 
paste  in  3  gallons  of  alcohol  of  90  per 
cent.,  and,  with  constant  stirring,  add 
water  and  some  acetic  acid,  noting  that 
the  temperature  must  not  be  allowed  to 
rise  above  95°  F.  This  solution,  as 
well  as  that  of  green  powder,  is  filtered 
and  then  used  for  dyeing. 

For  20  pounds  of  Wool  (Dyed  in  the 
Wooden  Vat).  Dissolve  6  pounds  of 
hyposulphite  of  sodium,  and  add  3 
pounds  of  hydrochloric  acid.  Heat  the 
liquor  to  105°  F.,  place  the  wool  in  the 
bath,  and,  with  vigorous  stirring,  heat 
it  to  the  boiling  point.  The  wool  is 
then  lifted  out  and  washed  in  a  fresh, 
cold  bath.  Now  prepare  a  fresh,  luke- 
warm bath,  and  add  to  it  10  ounces  of 
aoetic  acid  and  2  pounds  of  oil  soap 


dissolved  at  85°  F.  The  wool  is  placed 
in  this  bath,  dyed  with  the  above  solu- 
tions at  120°  to  140°  F.,  and  then  thor- 
oughly washed. 

For  dyeing  silk,  a  little  acetic  acid  is 
added  to  the  bath,  and  the  dyeing  ac- 
complished at  a  temperature  of  110°  F. 

Cotton  is  first  brought  into  a  sumach 
bath,  wrung  out,  and  then  into  a  bath 
of  stannate  of  sodium.  It  is  then  placed 
in  the  dye-bath  heated  to  105°  F.  and 
weakly  acidulated  with  acetic  acid. 
To  obtain  yellowish  tints  on  cotton,  add 
picric  acid  to  the  bath,  or,  what  is  still 
better,  it  is  dyed  with  picric  acid  in  a 
special  bath,  which  can  be  used  again. 

The  following  receipt  for  35  to  45 
pounds  of  woollen  yarn  has  been  thor- 
oughly tried  and  found  to  be  excellent : 
Add  10  pounds  of  hyposulphite  of  so- 
dium and  5  pounds  of  hydrochloric  acid 
to  a  lukewarm  bath,  enter  the  wool  at 
120°  F.,  and  raise  the  heat  to  160°  F. ; 
then  let  the  yarn  stand  in  the  bath  for  1 
hour,  when  it  is  thoroughly  rinsed. 
In  the  wooden  vat,  the  feed  pipe  of 
which  should  be  if  possible  of  rubber 
or  glass,  as  metal  must  be  avoided 
wherever  possible,  95  ounces  of  methyl- 
green  dissolved  and  filtered  are  added, 
and  according  to  requirement  from  3i 
to  7  ounces  of  picric  acid,  and  the  dye- 
ing is  finished  at  105°  to  120°  F. 

Malachite-green.  Dissolve  2  pounds 
of  malachite-green  (la.)  in  about  35  gal- 
lons of  water ;  heat,  with  constant  stir- 
ring, to  the  boiling  point,  and,  after 
boiling,  filter  for  15  minutes. 

Malachite-green  on  wool  is  treated  in 
the  same  manner  as  given  for  methyl- 
green,  namely,  with  hyposulphite  of 
sodium  and  hydrochloric  or  sulphuric 
acid. 

Silk  is  also  dyed  in  the  same  manner 
as  given  for  methyl-green ;  but  as  mala- 
chite-green is  of  a  more  yellowish  tint, 
considerable  picric  acid  may  be  saved. 
If  that  shade  is  desired,  but  a  very 
small  quantity  of  the  acid  need  be  ad- 
ded. 

Cotton  is  mordanted  with  sumach, 
then  placed  in  the  dye-bath  containing 
tartaric  or  acetic  acid,  and  dyed  at  a 
lukewarm  temperature. 

Malachite-green  may  be  highly  rec- 
ommended for  printing  on  cottons,  the 
more  so  as  this  color  can  stand  any  de- 
gree of  heat  and  the  hottest  steam  with- 


DYEING  WOOLLEN  AND  COTTON  GOODS,  ETC. 


103 


out  changing  or  losing  its  shade.  To 
10  pounds  of  solution  of  coloring  mat- 
ter add  3£  ounces  of  tannin,  and  heat 
to  140°  F. 

The  same  remarks  hold  good  for 
printing  on  woollens.  Two  pounds  of 
malachite-green  (la.)  dissolved  in  7  gal- 
lons of  boiling  water  are  generally  used. 
The  solution  is  filtered,  and  7  gallons 
of  gum-water  and  about  6£  pounds  of 
glycerine  are  added  to  it. 

Naphthaline  Colors.  Ponceau, 
Orange,  and  Bordeaux.  These  colors 
are  dissolved  in  boiling  water. 

For  100  pounds  of  Woollen  Yarn. 
Prepare  a  bath  containing  2£  pounds  of 
tartar,  heat  to  105°  F.,  place  the  yarn 
in  it,  turn  it  5  times,  and  then  add  the 
quantity  of  coloring  matter  required. 
After  turn-ing  it  several  times  add  very 
slowly  5i  pounds  of  the  composition  of 
tin  given  below,  bring  the  yarn  to  a 
;boil,  and  let  it  boil  for  i  hour,  when 
it  is  taken  out,  cooled  off,  and  thorough- 
ly washed.  The  color  takes  quickly 
after  the  composition  of  zinc  is  added 
and  becomes  very  brilliant. 

For  100  pounds  of  Piece  Goods. 
The  goods  are  placed  in  the  vat  at  105° 
F.  The  bath  should  contain  from  2  to 
3  per  cent,  of  tannin.  The  coloring 
matter  and  2£  per  cent,  of  composition 
of  tin  are  then  added ;  then  the  goods 
are  strongly  boiled  for  £  hour, 
allowed  to  cool,  and  thoroughly  washed. 
Even  the  thickest  goods  are  thor- 
oughly dyed  in  this  manner. 

Composition  of  tin  is  prepared  in  the 
following  manner:  Mix  3  parts  of  hy- 
drochloric  acid,  1  of  nitric  acid,  and'l 
of  water.  The  mixture  is  moderately 
heated  and  1  pound  of  English  granu- 
lated tin  is  then  added  for  every  6^ 
pounds  of  the  mixture. 

Silk  is  dyed  with  these  magnificent 
colors  in  the  soap  bath,  with  an  addi- 
tion of  some  acetic  acid  and  the 
quantity  of  coloring  matter  required. 

Cotton  is  first  soaped  and  then  dried. 
It  is  then  strongly  mordanted  for  1 
hour  in  acetate  of  alumina  which  must 
be  "free  from  lead,"  wrung  out,  and 
directly  dyed  in  a  fresh  water-bath  to 
which  the  dissolved  coloring  matter  has 
been  added.  The  temperature  is  raised 
to  the  boiling  point,  and  the  cotton 
allowed  tocool  in  the  bath.  The  baths, 
once  prepared,  can  be  used  again. 


Acetate  of  alumina  free  from  lead  is 
prepared  as  follows :  Dissolve  4  parts 
of  sulphate  of  alumina  and  3i  of  crystal- 
lized soda  in  7  parts  of  water.  Then 
dissolve  5  parts  of  sugar  of  lead  in  3J 
of  water.  Boil  each  solution  by  itself, 
mix  them  slowly  while  lukewarm,  and 
filter  this  mixture ;  then  the  alumina  is 
ready  for  use. 

The  naphthaline  colors,  ponceau, 
Bordeaux,  and  orange,  should  be  used  in 
a  wooden  vat  or  in  a  well-tinned  boiler, 
and  this  especially  for  wool  and  woollen 
goods,  as  unsatisfactory  results  are 
obtained  by  using  a  copper  boiler,  as  is 
evident  to  every  practical  dyer.  The 
colors  will  wash  and  are  not  changed 
by  atmospheric  influences  or  light. 

To  Dye  Felt  Hats  with  Aniline 
Colors.  For  the  dyeing  of  felt  hats 
aniline  colors  can  be  used  in  every  case. 
The  coloring  matter  is  used  repeatedly 
to  make  the  shade  satisfactory.  If  the 
dyeing  follows  the  fulling,  the  felt  is 
not  penetrated  so  easily,  but  the  hair 
cart  be  directly  dyed,  and  the  dyed  hair 
fulled.  For  this  purpose  a  solution  of 
the  dye  is  made  in  boiling  water,  then 
allowed  to  cool,  and  filtered.  A  pan 
with  water  heated  to  85°  F.  is  prepared, 
the  necessary  quantity  of  coloring  mat- 
ter added;  the  mixture  thoroughly 
stirred  up,  and  the  hair,  moistened  and 
ei? closed  in  a  basket,  is  placed  in  the 
bath.  The  bath  is  heated  to  140°  F. 
and  the  basket  agitated  continually. 
Fresh  coloring  matter  is  introduced 
when  the  hair  has  absorbed  a  certain 
amount,  the  basket  being  for  the  time 
removed. 

When  the  hair  is  fully  dyed,  the 
basket  is  lifted  out  and  the  hair 
allowed  to  cool  and  well  rinsed.  Mixt- 
ures of  aniline  colors  may  be  used  for 
particular  tints.  For  brown,  cerise, 
merron,  etc.,  are  used.  These  give  with 
indigo-carmine  and  picric  acid,  with 
addition  of  a  little  sulphuric  acid,  beau- 
tiful brown  shades.  For  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  favorite  "Bismarck"  a  solu- 
tion of  Manchester  brown  can  be  used, 
which  is  toned  down  by  addition  of 
indigo-carmine,  picric  acid,  and  fuch- 
sine. 

To  Dye  Felted  Fabrics  with  Ani- 
line Colors.  In  making  felted  fabrics 
of  a  mixture  of  animal  and  vegetable 
fibres,  it  is  found  difficult  to  dye  them 


104 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK, 


evenly,  as  the  vegetable  fibre  does  not 
take  the  dye  equally  with  the  animal. 
To  overcome  this  difficulty  the  vege- 
table matter  is  neutralized  by  subject- 
ing the  felted  fabric  to  an  acid  bath  of 
from  6°  to  12°  Beaume,  and  then  wash- 
ing to  remove  the  acid,  after  which  the 
fabric  will  dye  an  even  tint. 

To  Dye  Mot  her- of -Pear  I  with  Aniline 
Colors.  Wash  the  thin  plates  with 
lukewarm  solution  of  potash,  then 
place  them  in  a  concentrated  aqueous 
solution  of  the  coloring  matter,  and  let 
them  stand  in  a  warm  place,  frequently 
stirring  them.  If  the  dye  is  to  pene- 
trate to  some  depth  the  plates  must  re- 
main in  the  coloring  matter  for  two 
weeks,  then  be  rinsed  and  dried. 

To  Dye  Straw  and  Straw  Hats. 
Black.  For  25  Straw  Hats.  Prepare 
a  boiling  bath,  and  add  to  it  4V  pounds 
of  logwood,  1  pound  of  gall-nuts  or 
sumach,  and  4J  ounces  of  turmeric,  or 
fustic.  Let  the  hats  boil  in  this  bath 
for  2  hours.  Then  place  them  in  a 
bath  of  ferric  nitrate  of  4°  Beaume  and 
rinse  them  carefully  in  water,  and  dry 
and  brush  them. 

Chestnut-brown.  For,  25  Straw 
Hats.  One  and  one-half  pounds  of 
ground  red  sanders  wood,  '2  pounds  of 
ground  turmeric,  61  ounces  of  gall-nuts 
or  sumach,  and  £  ounce  of  rasped  log- 
wood are  boiled  for  at  least  2  hours  in  a 
boiler  of  sufficient  capacity  to  hold  the 
hats  without  being  pressed  against  each 
other.  The  hats,  after  being  boiled  for 
2  hours  in  this  bath,  are  rinsed  out  and 
allowed  to  remain  over  night  in  a  bath 
of  ferric  nitrate  of  40°  Beaume,  when 
they  are  carefully  rinsed  out  several 
times  to  remove  the  acid.  For  a  darker 
chestnut-brown  the  quantity  of  sanders 
wood  is  increased.  When  the  straw  is 
dry  the  hats  are  brushed  with  a  brush 
of  dog's  (or  couch)  grass  to  give  them 
lustre. 

,  Silver-gray.  For  25  Straw  Hats. 
The  whitest  straw  should  be  selected 
for  this  color.  The  hats  are  first 
soaked  in  a  bath  of  crystallized  soda  to 
which  a  little  of  a  clear  solution  of  lime 
and  4£  pounds  of  alum  and  3}  ounces 
of  tartaric  acid  have  been  added.  The 
hats  are  then  allowed  to  boil  in  this 
bath  for  2  hours,  when  they  are 
rinsed  with  slightly  acidulated  wntor. 

Violet.    For  25' /Straw  Hats.     Two 


pounds  of  alum,  1  portnd  of  tartaric 
acid,  and  a  Iik6  quantity  of  chloride  of 
tin.  Let  the  hats  boil  in  this  bath  for 
2  hours  and  then  add,  according  to  the 
shade  to  be  produced,  decoction  of  log- 
wood and  indigo-carmine,  and  rinse 
them  with  water  with  a  slight  addition 
of  alum. 

To  Dye  Kid  Gloves.  The  dye  solu- 
tions are  brushed  over  a  glove  drawn 
smoothly  over  a  wooden  hand.  In 
order  to  dye  black,  the  glove  is  first 
washed  with  alcohol  and  dried,  and 
then  brushed  with  a  decoction  of  log- 
wood, left  for  10  minutes,  and  then 
brushed  over  once  more  with  logwood. 
After  10  minutes,  the  glove  is  dipped 
into  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron,  and 
brushed  afterward  with  warm  water. 
If  the  color  is  not  dark  enough,  add  a 
little  fustic  or  decoction  of  quercitron 
in  the  logwood  bath.  In  place  of  the 
sulphate  of  iron,  the  nitrate  may  be  ad- 
vantageously employed.  When  the 
glove  begins  to  dry,  it  is  rubbed  with 
a  little  Provence  oil  and  talc,  laid  be- 
tween flannel,  and  pressed.  It  is  again. 
rubbed  with  oil  and  talc,  and  drawn  oa 
a  wooden  hand.  The  glove  must  not  get 
black  on  the  inside,  consequently  none 
of  the  coloring  matter  should  reach  the 
inside  of  the  glove.  Thrown  is  dyed  by 
brushing  the  glove  with  a  decoction  of 
fustic  red  and  logwood  with  a  little 
alum.  The  quantities  of  the  dyestuff 
to  be  used  are  regulated  according  to 
the  shades  desired.  For  darkening  the 
color  a  small  quantity  of  solution  of 
sulphate  of  iron  is  used. 

Morocco-red  is  produced  by  brushing 
the  glove  with  a  decoction  of  cochineal, 
to  which  a  little  tin  salt  and  oxalic  acid 
are  added.  The  shade  is  easily  made 
darker  by  adding  a  little  logwood. 
Gray  is  produced  by  brushing  the  glove 
with  a  decoction  of  sumach,  and  then 
treating  it  with  a  weak  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  iron ;  a  greenish-gray  shade  is 
obtained  by  the  addition  of  fustic  and 
logwood,  or  fustic  and  indigo-carmine, 
to  the  decoction  of  sumach. 

The  aniline  colors  all  fix  themselves 
without  any  further  addition  by  brush- 
ing their  solutions  on  the  gloves.  In 
place  of  the  brush  a  sponge  may  be 
used  where  it  seems  suitable.  In  order 
to  give  black  a  pleasing  bluish  appear- 
ance, after  the  dyeing,  it  may  be  washed 


DYEING  WOOLLEN  AND  COTTON  GOODS,  ETC. 


105 


with  a  little  sal-ammoniac.  Should 
the  seams  in  the  gloves  remain  white 
after  dyeing,  they  are  coated  with  a 
paste  to  which  a  little  fat  is  added. 

To  Dye  Kid  Gloves  Orange-yellow. 
Take  a  good  pinch  of  saffron,  1  drachm 
of  auiiotto,  and  a  like  quantity  of  isin- 
glass; pour  li  pints  of  boiling  water 
over  these  ingredients,  and  let  them 
stand  over  night.  Cleanse  the  gloves 
with  alcohol,,  draw  them  over  wooden 
hands,  and  apply  the  solution  with  a 
brush.  The  isinglass  gives  durability 
and  a  beautiful  lustre  to  the  color. 

To  Dye  Horsehair.  The  hair  is  kept 
in  a  soap  bath  of  120°  F.  for  I'-i  hours, 
and  frequently  stirred,  taken  out  and 
washed,  and  is  then  ready  for  the  dye. 

Jilack.  Boil  the  hair  with  milk  of 
lime,  then  place  it  for  several  hours  in 
a  decoction  of  logwood,  and  finally  treat 
it  with  acetate  of  iron. 

Blue.  Mordant  the  hair  in  a  warm 
solution  of  alum  and  tartar,  and  then 
dye  it  in  a  bath  of  indigo-carmine  com- 
pounded with  alum,  or  in  a  solution  of 
indigo  in  sulphuric  acid. 

Jfro-wn.  Place  the  hair  in  a  decoc- 
tion of  logwood  prepared  with  lime- 
water,  raise  the  temperature  of  the  bath 
to  120°  F.,  allow  the  hair  to  remain  in 
it  for  12  hours,  and  then  wash  it  in 
water. 

Red.  Place  the  hair  for  £  hour  in 
a  solution  of  tin  salt  to  which  some 
warm  water  has  been  added.  Then 
wring  it  out  and  bring  it  into  a  decoc- 
tion oflogwood  compounded  with  alum. 
Allow  it  to  remain  in  this  for  24  hours, 
and  then  rinse  and  dry  it. 

To  Dye  Imitation  Corals.  Alabaster 
is  generally  used  for  making  imitation 
corals.  For  the  purpose  of  dyeing  them, 
prepare  a  bath  of  1  part  of  tartar,  i  part 
of  composition  of  tin,  and  70  of  water. 
The  composition  of  tin  is  prepared  from 
8  parts  of  nitric  acid,  1  of  sal-ammoniac, 
1  of  tin,  and  25  of  water. 

Saturate  this  bath  with  cochineal  and 
bring  it  to  the  boiling  point.  Then 
allow  it  to  cool  and  decant  it.  The 
alabaster  is  placed  in  this  clear  fluid, 
boiled  for  1  hour  in  it,  then  dried  in  the 
open  air,  and  finally  put  for  2  or  3 
hours  in  a  bath  composed  of  equal 
parts  of  stearic  acid  and  wax.  When 
the  articles  are  taken  from  this  bath 
they  are  wiped  off  with  paper  and  pol- 


ished with  a  substance  which  should 
not  be  too  hard. 

AiiiiHiiliziny  of  Hemp,  Jute,  etc. 
Every  dyer  who  handles  these  articles 
knows  how  difficult  it  is  to  mordant 
and  dye  hemp  and  jute.  To  overcome 
this  difficulty  place  these  fibrous  sub- 
stances in  a  steam  boiler,  and  let  them 
boil  for  1  hour  in  a  suflicient  quantity 
of  soda;  then  rinse  and  subject  them  in 
a  well-closed  vessel  to  the  action  of 
chloride  of  lime.  The  substances  ani- 
mal ized  in  this  manner  can  be  easily 
bleached  or  dyed. 

MOKDANTS.  Olivier9*  Mixtures  as 
Substitute*  for  Tartar  in  Dyeing  Wool. 
I.  Dissolve  100  parts  of  common  salt  in 
300  parts  of  water ;  add  to  the  solution 

1  part  of  white  arsenic,  10  of  sulphuric 
acid,  and  3  of  nitric  acid. 

II.  Mix  100  parts  of  Glauber's  salt 
with  1  of  sulphuric  acid,  3  of  »itrie 
acid,  and  6  of  vinegar. 

III.  Mix  100  parts  of  Glauber's  salt 
with  G  of  sulphuric  acid  and  2  of  nitric 
acid. 

IV.  Mix  100  parts  of  Glauber's  salt 
and  3  of  powdered  tartar  with  6  of  sul- 
phuric acid. 

Uuilard's  Substitute  for  Tartar  in 
Dyeing  Wool  Slack,  without  an  addi- 
tion of  alum,  is  composed  of  16.5  gal- 
lons of  water,  55  pounds  of  common 
salt,  and  11  pounds  of  nitric  acid  of  36° 
Beaume.  The  common  salt  is  dissolved 
in  the  water,  the  nitric  acid  is  tlu'n 
added,  and  the  solution  filtered.  If 
tartar  and  alum  have  been  used  as  a 
mordant,  33  pounds  of  sulphate  of  alu- 
mina are  gradually  added  in  small  por- 
tions to  the  solution  of  common  salt 
with  nitric  acid.  It  is  necessary  to  add 
some  tartar  and  alum  to  the  bath  to  be 
used  for  the  first  piece  of  goods,  or 
a  little  tartar  is  added  to  the  dye- 
bath. 

Mordant  for  Dark  Red  on  Cottons. 
One  and  three-quarter  gallons  of  soft 
water,  2  pounds  of  cream  of  tartar,  11 
pounds  of  good  alum,  1  pound  of  sal- 
ammoniac,  81  ounces  of  solution  of  tin, 
3i  pounds  of  crystallized  soda,  and  2 
pounds  of  spirit  of  wine. 

Mordant  for  Light  Red  on  Cottons. 
One  and  one-half  gallons  of  water,  2£ 
ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  73  pounds  of 
good  alum,  13i  ounces  of  sal-ammoniac, 

2  pounds  of  crystallized  soda,  8i  ounces 


108 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK, 


of  solution  of  tin,  and  2  pounds  of  spirit 
of  wine. 

Mordant  for  Scarlet  on  Cottons.  One 
and  three-quarter  gallons  of  soft  water, 
11  pounds  of  alum,  li  pounds  of  sal- 
ammoniac,  3i  pounds  of  crystallized 
soda,  8f  ounces  of  solution  of  tin,  1 
quart  of  spirit  of  wine,  and  1  pound  of 
sugar  of  tin. 

Mordant  for  Light  Scarlet  on  Cottons. 
One  and  one-half  gallons  of  soft  water, 
51  pounds  of  alum,  Sf  ounces  of  sal- 
ammoniac,  1  pound  of  crystallized  soda, 
13£  ounces  of  solution  of  tin,  1  quart  of 
spirit  of  wine,  and  1  pound  of  sugar  of 
tin. 

Mordant  for  Crimson  on  Cottons. 
One  and  one-half  gallons  of  soft  water, 
2  pounds  of  lime,  51  pounds  of  alum,  1 
pound  of  sal-amrnoniac,  41  ounces  of 
potash,  8}  ounces  of  liver  of  sulphur,  1 
quart  of  spirit  of  wine,  1  pound  of  sugar 
of  tin,  and  1  pound  of  spirit  of  sal- 
ammoniac. 

Mordant  for  Rose-red  on  Cottons. 
One  and  one-half  gallons  of  soft  water, 
If  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  3i  pounds 
of  alum,  8|  ounces  of  sal-ammoniac,  8| 
ounces  of  solution  of  tin,  41  ounces  of 
liver  of  sulphur,  8J  ounces  of  sugar  of 
tin,  and  2  pounds  of  spirit  of  sal-am- 
moniac. 

Mordant  for  Fiery  Red  on  Cottons. 
One  and  one-half  gallons  of  soft  water, 
11  pounds  of  verdigris,  41  pounds  of 
alum,  3i  pounds  of  blue  vitriol,  and  1 
quart  of  spirit  of  wine. 

Mordant  for  Purple  on  Cottons.  One 
and  one-half  gallons  of  soft  water,  8| 
ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  8J  pounds  of 
alum,  41  pounds  of  lime,  8§  ounces  of 
potash,  li  pounds  of  solution  of  tin,  4i 
pounds  of  sugar  of  tin,  and  2  pounds  of 
iron  liquor. 

Mordant  for  Violet  on  Cottons.  One 
and  one-half  gallons  of  soft  water,  8i 
ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  2i  pounds  of 
alum,  41  pounds  of  crystallized  soda, 
61  pounds  of  sugar  of  tin,  and  3i  pounds 
of  spirit  of  sal-ammoniac. 

Manner  of  Preparing  the  Mordants. 
First  dissolve  the  alum  in  hot  water, 
then  add  the  coloring  matter,  for  in- 
stance cochineal  and  solution  of  tin, 
etc.;  next  the  sal-ammoniac  and  the 
alkalies,  as  soda,  potash,  liver  of  sul- 
phur, and  finally  the  spirit  of  wine  and 
$  urn  Arabic, 


Use  of  Metallic  Sulphides  as  Mor- 
dants in  Dyeing  Cottons  with  Aniline 
Colors.  For  the  purpose  of  mordanting 
with  sulphide  of  zinc  the  cottons  are 
dipped  for  a  short  time  into  a  solution 
of  15  parts  of  sulphate  of  zinc  in  10 
parts  of  water.  They  are  then  dried 
and  placed  for  2  minutes  in  a  solution 
of  sulphite  of  soda  of  15°  Beaume.  To 
mordant  with  sulphide  of  tin  the  cot- 
tons are  immersed  for  a  short  time  in  a 
bath  containing  1  pint  of  stannate  of 
soda,  of  20°  Beaume,  and  1  pint  of 
sulphide  of  ammonium .  They  are  then 
placed,  while  still  moist,  in  sulphuric 
acid  of  2°  Beauae'.  In  both  cases  the 
mordanted  cottons  are  dyed  hot  in  a 
watery  solution  of  aniline  colors.  The 
coloring  matter  forms  a  combination 
with  the  metallic  sulphide  which  can- 
not be  wrashed  out  with  hot  water. 

Pra ctica I  Direction sfor  Dyeing  Cotton 
Yarn  Turkey-red  with  Alizarine.  Six 
hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  yarn  are 
boiled  with  18i  pounds  of  calcined  borax, 
in  a  high-pressure  boiler,  for  10  to  12 
hours,  at  a  pressure  of  1.5  atmosphere. 
It  is  then  passed  through  a  mixture  of  45 
pounds  of  sheep  or  cow  dung  and  10 
gallons  of  solution  of  potash  of  1.1598 
specific  gravity  and  the  necessary  quan- 
tity of  water.  After  it  has  been  dried 
at  130°  to  145°  F.  it  receives  the  first 
oil  mordant.  This  is  composed  of  55 
pounds  of  oil,  7|  gallons  of  the  above 
solution  of  potash,  and  the  residue  of  a 
former  lot.  It  is  first  dried  in  the  air 
and  then  thoroughly  in  the  drying 
room  at  145°  F.  It  now  receives  the 
second  oil  mordant,  composed  as  the 
first.  This  is  succeeded  by  a  clear 
mordant  containing  4|  gallons  of  solu- 
tion of  potash,  40  gallons  of  the  rinsing 
water,  and  the  residue  of  both  oil  mor- 
dants. The  yarn  is  then  immediately 
dried  in  the  drying  room  at  130°  F. 
When  dry  the  second  clear  mordant, 
composed  like  the  first,  is  applied  and 
the  yarn  again  dried.  It  is  then  placed 
over  night  in  a  solution  of  2  to  3  pounds 
of  tannin,  and  galled.  After  it  has 
been  wrung  out  it  is  placed  in  the  alum 
mordant,  which  contains  either  165 
pounds  of  sulphate  of  magnesia  dulled 
with  22  pounds  of  calcined  soda,  or  165 
pounds  of  alum  dulled  with  23  pounds 
of  chalk.  The  yarn  is  then  again  dried, 
mordanted  with  soda,  and  washed.  In 


ELECTRO-PLATING,  GALVANOPLASTY,  ETC. 


107 


dyeing,  8J  pounds  of  alizarine,  42  gal- 
lons of  blood,  and,  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  water,  IS  ounces  of  tannin 
and  chalk  are  used  for  88  pounds  of 
yarn.  After  the  yarn  is  dyed  it  is 
brightened  for  10  hours  in  the  high- 
pressure  boiler  with  25  pounds  of  cal- 
cined soda;  then  acidulated  with  3i 
pounds  of  tin  salt,  1  pound  of  nitric 
acid,  and  8|  ounces  of  alum;  next 
soaped  with  22  pounds  of  soap,  5£ 
pounds  of  soda,  2  pounds  of  tin  salt,  llf 
ounces  of  nitric  acid,  and  1  pound  of 
annotto,  and  finally  washed,  oiled, 
loaded,  and  soaked. 

To  Prepare  the  so-called  Turkey-red 
Oil.  The  following  process  furnishes 
a  Turkey-red  oil  which,  when  dissolved 
in  water,  gives  a  clear  fluid  well  adapted 
for  dyeing  and  printing  with  alizarine. 
Add  in  a  thin  stream  and  with  constant 
stirring  1£  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid  of 
66°  Beaume  to  6J  pounds  of  castor-oil. 
Heating  during  the  process  should  be 
carefully  avoided,  but  should  it  occur, 
the  adding  of  sulphuric  acid  must  be 
interrupted  until  the  mass  has  entirely 
cooled  off.  The  greater  the  quantity 
worked  at  one  time  the  greater  is  the 
danger  of  heating  and  the  consequent 
spoiling  of  the  product.  If  the  work  is 
carried  on  on  a  large  scale  it  is  best  to 
use  vats  lined  with  lead.  The  mixing 
of  the  sulphuric  acid  with  the  oil  re- 
quires from  2  to  4  hours ;  3  hours  suffice 
for  the  above-mentioned  quantity.  The 
mass  is  now  allowed  to  stand  quietly  for 
12  hours,  when  it  is  diluted  with  1  gal- 
lon of  water.  Calcined  soda  in  small 
portions  is  now  added  until  litmus 
paper  is  no  longer  colored  red.  About 
li  pounds  of  pure  soda  will  be  required. 
This  operation  must  be  carried  on  very 
slowly,  as,  on  account  of  the  escape  of 
carbonic  acid,  a  strong  foaming  will 
take  place.  The  mass  gives  now  a 
white  emulsion  with  water.  To  obtain 
a  clear  solution  ammonia  is  added  until 
a  sample  gives  a  clear  solution  with 
water.  It  is  then  allowed  to  settle  for 
about  12  hours,  when  the  now  finished 
Turkey-red  oil  is  drawn  off  by  means 
of  a  siphon.  The  sodium  sulphate 
which  has  been  formed  by  the  re-neu- 
tralization will  be  found  as  a  crystallized 
residue  on  the  bottom  of  the  vessel. 

English  Alizarinoil  (Patent  Oil)  is 
composed  of  48,69  per  cent,  of  water, 


4.67  per  cent,  of  castor-oil,  43.90  per 
cent,  of  ricinoleic  acid,  and  3.685  per 
cent,  of  ash.  Such  oil  is  prepared  by  a 
complete  saponification  of  castor-oil 
with  caustic  soda.  The  resulting  soap 
is  decomposed  with  diluted  acid.  The 
separated  fatty  acids  are  removed  by 
water  and  then  compounded  with  a  like 
quantity  of  water  and  a  sufficient 
amount  of  caustic  soda,  that  about  &  of 
the  castor-oil  used  is  again  saponified. 
After  boiling  the  mixture  it  is  allowed 
to  cool  and  is  then  converted  into  an 
emulsion  by  stirring. 

A  New  Dye.  The  young  shoots  of 
the  poplar  tree  yield  a  dye  which  can 
be  extracted  as  follows:  The  young 
twigs  and  branches  are  bruised  and 
boiled  for  20  minutes  with  a  solution  of 
alum — 10  pounds  of  wood  requiring  1 
pound  of  alum — in  3.^  gallons  of  water. 
The  solution  is  filtered  hot  and  allowed 
to  cool,  and  after  standing  some  time  is 
again  filtered  from  a  resinous  deposit. 
On  exposure  to  air  and  light  it  develops 
a  rich  gold  color  and  may  be  used 
directly  for  dyeing  orange  and  yellow 
shades  upon  all  classes  of  goods. 

ELECTEO-PLATING,  GALVANOPLASTY, 
GILDING,  NICKELLING,  SILVERING, 
TINNING,  ETC. 

Nickel  Plating.  The  double  sul- 
phate of  nickel  and  ammonium,  which 
is  the  salt  that  is  generally  used,  may 
now  be  had  in  commerce  almost  pure. 
The  anodes  should  considerably  exceed 
in  size  the  articles  to  be  covered  with 
nickel.  Any  common  form  of  battery 
may  be  used.  Three  Darnell's  cells,  or 
two  Bunsen's,  connected  for  intensity, 
will  be  found  to  be  sufficient.  The  bat- 
tery power  must  not  be  too  strong,  or 
the  deposited  nickel  will  be  black.  A 
strong  solution  of  the  sulphate  is  made, 
and  placed  in  any  suitable  vessel;  a 
glazed  stoneware  pot  answers  very  well 
if  the  articles  to  be  covered  are  small. 
Across  the  top  of  this  are  placed  two 
heavy  copper  wires,  to  one  of  which  the 
articles  to  be  covered  are  suspended,  to 
the  other  the  anode.  The  wire  leading 
from  the  zinc  of  the  battery  must  then 
be  connected  with  the  wire  from  which 
the  articles  are  suspended,  the  other 
battery-wire  being  connected  with  the 
anode. 


108 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


To  prepare  the  articles  for  coating,  i  Ammonium  chloride  or  ammo- 

they  must  be  well  cleansed  by  scrub-  |  .  nium  "«W>"*« 

bing  them,  immersing  in  boiling  pot-    Ammonium  Ultrj 


ash,  to  remove  any  grease,  then  dipping 
them  for  an  instant  in  muriatic  acid, 
and  afterwards  washing  thoroughly  in 
water,  taking  care  that  the  hand  does 
not  come  in  contact  with  any  part  of 
them.  This  is  accomplished  by  fasten- 
ing a  flexible  copper  wire  around  them 
and  handling  them  by  means  of  it. 
The  wire  serves  afterwards  to  suspend 
them  in  the  bath. 

If  the  articles  are  made  of  iron  or 
steel,  they  may  be  first  covered  with  a 
thin  coat'of  copper.  This  is  best  done 
by  the  cyanide  bath,  which  is  prepared 
by  dissolving  precipitated  oxide  of  cop- 
per in  cyanide  of  potassium.  A  copper 
plate  is  used  as  an  anode.  After  they 
are  removed  from  the  copper  bath,  they 
must  be  washed  quickly  with  water 
and  placed  in  the  nickel  bath.  If  al- 
lowed to  become  dry,  or  to  tarnish,  the 
nickel  will  not  adhere.  Great  care 
must  be  observed  during  the  whole  pro- 
cess to  keep  ail  grease,  dust,  or  other 
dirt  from  tho  articles  to  be  coated,  or 
else  the  result  will  be  unsatisfactory. 
The  whole  process  is  one  of  the  most 


pound. 


The  bath  is  heated  to  175°  F.,  and 
gradually  saturated  with  freshly  pre- 
cipitated nickel  hydrate.  It  is  then 
removed  from  the  'fire,  saturated  with 
i  gallon  of  ammonia,  and  diluted  with 
water  to  a  bulk  of  5 '  gallons.  It  is  now 
allowed  to  become  cold.  One  pound  of 
ammonium  carbonate  is  then  added, 
the  fluid  is  allowed  to  settle,  and  is 
finally  filtered. 

It  is  blackish-blue,  and  shows  11°  B. 
A  white  layer  of  nickel  of  great  density 
and  brilliancy  is  deposited  by  electrol- 
ysis. The  temperature  of  the  bath, 
when  used,  should  be  about  120°  F. 
A  thicker  coating  can  be  obtained  by 
adding  hydrate  of  potassium  or  of  so- 
dium. 

Latest  Improvements  in  Nickel  Plat* 
ing.  The  double  salts  of  nickel  and 
ammonia,  generally  used  in  nickel 
plating,  have  not  given  entirely  satis- 
factory results.  After  many  experi- 
ments Powell,  of  Cincinnati,  has  found 
that  an  addition  of  benzoic  acid  to  1 
of  the  nickel  salts  (especially  when  a 
decidedly  alkaline  solution  is  used) 


difficult  that  is  used  in  the  arts,  it  being  suffices  to  produce  a  beautiful  silver 

far  easier  to  gild  plate  or  copper  an  white  C0ating,  which  is  very  hard,  uni- 

article  than  to  nickel  it ;  but  if  due  care  forin  and  adhesive.     The  solution  is  at 
is  taken  the  results  will  amply  pay  for 


the  trouble. 

Improvement  in  Nickel  Plating.  E. 
Weston,  of  Newark,  N.  «/.,  has  found 
that  an  addition  of  boracic  acid  adapts 
the  different  salts  of  nickel  better  for 
electrolytic  separation  than  any  other 
substance,  and  especially  prevents  the 
formation  of  sub-salts  of  nickel  on 
the  cathode.  The  following  mixtures 


the  same  time  more  durable,  the  anodes 
dissolve  freely,  and  the  specific  gravity 
of  the  fluid  remains  unchanged.  The 
addition  of  benzoic  acid  may  vary  from 
i  ounce  to  1}  ounces  to  the  gallon,  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  solution. 
Instead  of  benzoic  acid  one  of  its  salts, 
for  instance  benzoate  of  nickel,  may 
be  used,  and  such  addition  may  also  be 
advantageously  employed  for  solutions 
The  in- 


can  be  especially  recommended:    Five  |  of  cobajt  and  other  metals.     _  ,„. 
parts  of  nickel  chloride  and  2  of  boracic  I  ventor  recommends  the  following  pro- 
acid  ;  or  2  of  nickel  su  phate  and  1  of    portions  for  a  bath  of  1  gallon  : 
boracic  acid.    The  nickel  precipitated 
from  these  solutions  adheres  very  tena- 
ciously. 

Sheet  metal  plated  by  this  process 
can  be  polished,  stamped,  and  fashioned 
into  various  shapes  without  injury  to 
the  coating. 

Martin  and  Dclamotte's  Process  of 
Nickel  Plating.  Prepare  a  bath  of: 


Water 3.3  gallons. 

Citric  acid 2%  pounds. 


I. 

Nickel  sulphate 4\£  ounces, 

Nickel  citrate 3J4      " 

Benzoic  acid  .  1      ounce 


II. 


Nickel  chloride 2 

Nickel  citrate 2 

Nickel  acetate 2 

Nickel  phosphate 2 

Benzoic  acid      .......  1 


ELECT IIO-PLATING,  GALVANOPLASTY,  ETC. 


109 


in. 

Nickel  sulphate      ......  3V£  ounces. 

Nickel  citr.ite    .......  3^      " 

Nickel  bdizuate     ......  1      ounce. 

Benzoic  acid      .......  " 


IV. 

Nickel  acetate 

Nickel  phosphate  ... 

Nickel  citrate    .... 

Sodium  pyrophosphate   . 

Sodium  bisulphide 

Ammonia 


3J4  ounces. 

1  ounce. 
3l/£  ounces. 

2  " 

1      ounce. 
5}^  ounces. 


As  benzole  acid  is  difficult  to  dissolve 
in  water  it  is  best  to  heat  the  nickel 
salts  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water, 
and  to  add  the  benzoic  acid  during  the 
boiling.  It  will  thus  dissolve  much 
easier  with  the  nickel  salts  than  in 
pure  water 

The  great  advantage  of  these  solu- 
tions is  that  the  manufacturer  is  no 
longer  restricted  to  the  use  of  certain 
chemically  pure  salts.  For  preparing 
the  acetate,  citrate,  and  sulphate  of 
nickel,  respectively,  the  ordinary  acids 
of  commerce  can  be  used,  as  the  inju- 
rious influences  of  the  impurities, 
always  present  in  these  salts  or  acids, 
are  entirely  neutralized  by  the  benxoic 
acid.  These  solutions  are  also  adapted 
for  electrotyping  purposes,  where  the 
metal  is  deposited  upon  surfaces  ren- 
dered conductive  by  a  thin  coating  of 
graphite,  bronze  powder,  etc.  The  de- 
posit, as  soon  as  the  desired  thickness 
has  been  obtained,  can  also  be  de- 
tached in  the  same  manner  from  the 
surface  or  the  metal.  In  case  the  solu- 
tions to  be  used  contain  alkaline  salts, 
it  is  best  to  prevent  a  possible  incom- 
plete decomposition  of  the  fluid  by  an 
addition  of  sodium  pyrophospliate. 
Finally  salicylic,  gallic,  or  pyrogallic 
acid  may  be  'substituted  for  a  part  or 
the  whole  of  benzoic  acid. 

liccc  //>/••>•  for  Onl  iiKirij  Xickel  F>dtli$. 
I.  Boil,  with  constant  stirring,  for 
\  hour,  1  pound  of  the  double  sul- 
phate of  nickel  and  ammonium  and  V 
pound  of  hydrochlorate  of  ammonia  in 
1?  gallons  of  water,  and  let  the  fluid 
cool  over  night. 

II.  Boil  for  i  hour  1  pound  of  the 
double  sulphate  of  nickel  and  am- 
monium and  If  ounces  of  citric  acid 
in  2  gallons  of  water.  Then  allow  it 
to  cool  and  add  from  i  to  f  ounces  of 


carbonate  ot  ammonia  in  small  pieces 
until  the  fluid  is  neutralized. 

III.  Boil  for  i  hour  10V  ounces  of 
the  double  sulphate  of  nickel  and  am- 
monium, a  like  quantity  of  sulphate 
of  ammonia,  and    H  gallons  of  water, 
and  let  the  fluid  cool. 

IV.  Dissolve  10i  ounces  of  the  double 
sulphate  of  nickel  and  ammonium  by 
boiling  in  3i  quarts  of  water,  and  allow 
the  fluid  to  cool.     The  solution  is  neu- 
tralized  with  spirit  of  sal-ammoniac, 
and  diluted  with  water,  until  it  is  con- 
centrated to  20°  to  25°  B. 

V.  Dissolve  2i  pounds  of  the  double 
sulphate  of  nickel  and  ammonium,  li 
pounds  of  hydrochlorate  of  ammonia 
by  boiling  in  8J  gallons  of  water,  and 
make  the  fluid  slightly  alkaline  so  that 
it  shows  3°  to  4°  by  the  hydrometer,  by 
adding  3$  pounds  of  caustic  ammonia. 

VI.  Dissolve  1  pound  of  the  double 
sulphate  of  nickel  and  ammonium,  10i 
ounces  of  hydrochlorate  of  ammonium, 
and  7  ounces  of  sulphate  of  ammonium 
by  boiling  in  12  gallons  of  water,  and 
allow  the  fluid  to  cool. 

American  JSickeiling.  The  following 
baths  are  in  use  in  a  number  of  large 
American  manufactories : 

I.  Bath    for    Iron,    Cast-iron,  and 
Steel.     Dissolve  2  pounds  of  the  double 
sulphate  of  nickel  and  ammonium  and 
5i  ounces  of  sulphate  of  ammonia  by 
boiling  in  5i  gallons  of  water. 

II.  Bath    for  Brass,    Copper,    Tin, 
Britannia    Metal,    Lead,    Zinc,   and 
Tinned  8heet  Metal.    Dissolve  2  pounds 
of  the  double  sulphate  of  nickel  and 
ammonium  and  7  ounces  of  sulphate 
of  ammonium  by  boiling  in  6i  gallons 
of  water,  and  let  the   fluid  cool.     In 
case  any  acid  should  still  be  present  a 
little  hydrochlorate  of  ammonia  must 
be  added,  so  that  red  or  blue  litmus 
paper  remains  unchanged. 

Latest   Anglo-American   Nicktllifig. 

'  The  best  nickel-plating,  for  the  ex- 
cellence of  which  we  can  vouch,  is  ac- 

I  complished  by  using  the  following 
bath  :  Two  pounds  of  the  double  sul- 
phate of  nickel  and  ammonium  and  1 
pound  of  refined  boracic  acid  are  boiled 

j  for  i  hour,  when  the  fluid  is  allowed 

!  to  cool.  This  bath  gives  a  silver- 
white  plating,  and  all  parts  of  the 
article  receive  a  uniform  nickelling 

.  and  remain   unchanged  even  if  con- 


110 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


tinuously  used,  which  is  not  the  case 
with  other  nickel  baths.  In  nickelling 
large  articles,  several  nickel  anodes 
Hi ust  be  suspended  on  each  of  the  four 
sides.  In  nickelling  plates,  cups,  etc., 
a  plate  of  nickel  must  be  suspended  in 
the  centre  of  the  hollow,  but  should  be, 
if  possible,  kept  at  a  distance  of  2  to  4 
inches  from  the  article  to  be  nickelled. 
A  strong  Bunsen  battery  of  4  to  8 
elements,  or,  what  is  still  better,  a 
dynamo-electric  machine,  is  used. 

Preparation  of  the  Metals  to  be  Nick- 
elled. The  treatment  of  iron  and  steel 
requires  no  further  explanation.  We 
advise  to  first  immerse  the  articles  for 
some  time  in  a  boiling  hot  solution  of 
caustic  soda  or  potash,  next  to  rub  them 
thoroughly  with  a  brush,  then  to  rinse 
with  cold  water,  and  finally  to  dip 
them  into  an  acid  pickle  consisting  of 
1  part  of  sulphuric  acid  and  2  of  hydro- 
chloric acid  to  10  of  water,  after  which 
they  are  again  rinsed,thoroughly  rubbed 
with  fine,  washed  pumice-stone  or  Vi- 
enna lime,  rinsed  off,  and  at  once  brought 
into  the  bath.  Fine  polished  instru- 
ments of  iron  and  steel  for  surgical, 
dental,  and  other  purposes,  scissors, 
knives,  and  telegraphic  instruments  are 
treated  in  the  same  manner,  but  in 
place  of  the  washed  pumice-stone  they 
should  be  brushed  with  whiting  or  trip- 
oli,  or,  what  is  still  better,  with  infu- 
sorial earth.  Brass,  bronze,  Britannia 
metal,  etc.,  are  also  treated  with  a  hot 
solution  of  caustic  soda  or  potash,  then 
rubbed  and  brushed,  rinsed  with  water, 
and  at  once  placed  in  a  solution  of  cy- 
anide of  potassium.  They  are  then 
cleansed  with  a  bristle  brush  kept  for 
that  purpose,  carefully  rinsed  in  water, 
and  at  once  brought  into  the  bath.  The 
variegated  colors  produced  upon  brass 
by  the  action  of  the  solution  of  caustic 
soda  disappear  almost  instantaneously 
in  the  solution  of  cyanide,  and  a  bright 
surface  of  the  metal  is  sure  to  be  ob- 
tained. Special  attention  must  be  paid 
to  the  careful  rinsing  of  the  articles, 
especially  if  they  have  hollow  places 
and  depressions,  after  they  have  been 
treated  in  the  solution  of  cyanide  of 
potassium,  to  prevent  the  nickelling 
bath  from  being  contaminated  by  the 
cyanide.  For  many  articles  of  brass 
having  more  or  less  matt  and  polished 
places,  it  is  sufficient  to  dip  them  (after 


having  been  freed  from  all  fatty  sub- 
stances  by  boiling  potash  and  subse- 
quently rinsing  in  water)  into  the  mixt- 
ure of  acids,  then  to  rinse  them  again,  and 
to  bring  them  at  once  into  the  bath. 
For  iron  articles  the  use  of  finely  sifted 
pumice-stone  or  chalk  is  absolutely 
necessary.  Copper  wire  should  be 
tightly  wound  around  all  articles  of 
metal,  and  two  or  more  wires  around 
large  articles.  In  articles  consisting  of 
two  metals,  for  instance  iron  with  steel 
or  with  brass,  the  wire  must  be  wound 
around  both  metals.  Smaller  articles 
are  suspended  from  copper  hooks.  The 
articles  should  not  be  immersed  in  the 
nickelling  bath  until  the  battery  or 
machine  is  in  action.  The  suspended 
articles  remain  in  the  bath  until  they 
have  acquired  a  white  color,  which, 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  electric 
current  and  the  number  and  size  of  the 
articles  suspended,  will  require  from  5 
to  30  minutes.  Large  articles  of  steel 
or  iron  require  longer  than  brass,  cop- 
per, etc.,  and,  if  they  fill  the  entire  bath, 
must  remain  in  it,  according  to  circum- 
stances, for  several  hours  or  an  entire 
night.  In  case  the  article  to  be  nick- 
elled assumes  a  gray  or  black  color,  or 
feels  gritty  or  rough,  the  current  is  too 
strong.  The  article,  after  its  removal 
from  the  bath,  should  immediately  be 
dipped  for  a  few  seconds  in  boiling  hot 
water,  then  allowed  to  drain  off,  dried 
in  warm  sawdust  free  from  rosin,  and, 
if  necessary,  polished.  Fine  articles  are 
rubbed  with  a  polishing  brush  or  with 
soft  leather  and  whiting.  Polishing 
the  articles  with  a  burnishing  steel  after 
they  have  been  nickelled  is  not  admis- 
sible, as  the  coating  is  too  hard  and 
brittle  for  such  usage.  The  better  they 
have  been  polished  before  plating,  the 
more  beautiful  will  be  the  nickelling. 

To  Nickel  Iron  without  the  Use  of 
Electricity.  To  a  solution  of  chloride 
of  zinc  5  to  10  per  cent,  strong  add 
enough  nickel  salt  to  give  the  usual 
color  of  nickel  baths.  Cleanse  the  arti- 
cles and  put  them  in  the  solution  for  i 
to  1  hour. 

Doumesnil's  Process  of  Platinizing 
Metal.  The  preci  pitate  obtained  by  treat- 
ing a  solution  of  platinum  chloride  with 
sal-ammoniac  is  intimately  mixed  with 
finely  pulverized  borate  of  lead  by  add- 
ing water.  The  articles,  which  should 


ELECTRO-PLATING,  GALVANOPLASTY,  ETC. 


Ill 


first  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  are  coated 
with  this  mixture  and  then  subjected  to 
a  strong  heat  in  a  sheet-iron  muffle. 

Platinizing  of  Metals.  Optical  in- 
struments, etc.,  are  platinized  by  boil- 
ing them  in  a  solution  of  J  ounce  of 
ammonio-chloride  of  platinum  and  3 
ounces  of  sal-ammoniac  in  14  ounces  of 
water.  This  solution  may  also  be  used 
for  copper  and  brass  articles.  Platinum 
plating  is  a  subject  about  which  very 
little  has  been  said  or  written,  as  elec- 
tro-platers who  have  actually  obtained 
good  results  have"  kept  the  process  a 
profound  secret.  We  give  below  re- 
ceipts received  from  acknowledged  au- 
thorities and  from  private  sources. 
There  are  two  methods  of  platinum 
plating :  bv  dipping  without  the  use  of 
a  battery  (boiling),  and  by  electrolysis. 
Copper  and  its  alloys  are  best  adapted 
for  platinizing,  as  the  platinum  adheres 
well  to  them,  but  not  very  well  to  iron, 
zinc,  tin,  and  lead.  The  following 
solution  is  recommended  for  platinizing 
by  boiling :  One  part  of  pure  chloride 
of  platinum  in  solid  form  and  as  neu- 
tral as  possible  and  10  of  entirely  pure 
sodium  hydrate  are  separately  dissolved, 
each  in  50  parts  of  water,  and  the  pla- 
tinum solution  is  then  carefully  poured 
into  the  sodium  lye.  When  the  two 
solutions  have  been  thoroughly  mixed 
add  ammonia  until  the  mixture  shows 
a  perceptible  odor  of  it.  The  bath  is 
heated  to  the  boiling  point,  the  arti- 
cles, which  should  first  be  thoroughly 
cleansed,  are  dipped  into  it,  and,  as 
soon  as  they  have  acquired  a  white, 
brilliant  coating,  rinsed  in  hot  water, 
dried  in  sawdust,  and,  if  necessary, 
again  dipped.  This  coating,  no  matter 
how  well  it  may  look,  will  necessarily 
be  very  thin  and  not  capable  of  resist- 
ing acids,  scouring,  etc.  Electroplating 
is  necessary  for  most  purposes.  A 
skilled  and  experienced  operator,  by 
accurately  observing  the  following  di- 
rections, can  obtain  a  deposit  of  any 
desired  thickness  and  showing  the  same 
lustre  as  pure  platinum :  Dissolve  10 
drachms  of  pure  chloride  of  platinum  ' 
in  7  ounces  of  water.  Then  dissolve  1 J 
ounces  of  ammonium  phosphate  in  7 
ounces  of  water.  Mix  this  with  the 
solution  of  platinum,  disregarding  the 
precipitate  which  is  formed.  In  the  I 
meanwhile  bring  10£  ounces  of  water  ' 


and  3£  ounces  of  sodium  phosphate  to 
the  boiling  point,  and  add,  while  this 
is  boiling,  the  thoroughly  shaken  solu- 
tion above  described.  Continue  to  boil 
the  mixture  until  the  fluid  has  become 
entirely  clear  and  the  odor  of  ammonia 
entirely  disappears,  and  the  solution,  at 
first  alkaline,  ceases  to  impart  a  blue 
color  to  reddened  litmus  paper.  When 
this  bath  is  cold  and  has  been  filtered 
it  is  ready  for  use.  It  requires  a  strong, 
constant  current  and  a  large  anode. 

According  to  Jeivreinqff',  copper  and 
brass  can  be  electroplated  with  platinum 
to  any  desired  thickness  by  taking  the 
articles  from  time  to  time  from  the  solu- 
tion of  platinum  and  scouring  them 
with  whiting.  The  salt  of  platinum 
used  is  prepared  in  the  following  man- 
ner: One  hundred  parts  of  potassium 
hydrate  dissolved  in  water  are  added  to 
a  solution  in  water  of  the  chloride  of 
platinum  obtained  from  100  parts  of 
metallic  platinum.  The  minute  yellow 
crystals  of  platino-chloride  of  potas- 
sium which  are  formed  are  heated  with 
20  parts  of  oxalic  acid  in  a  porcelain 
vessel  until  they  disappear,  and,  when 
the  solution  is  complete,  300  parts  more 
of  potassium  hydrate,  dissolved  in 
water,  are  added. 

To  Electroplate  Metals  with  Cobalt. 
The  same  formulae  as  have  been  de- 
scribed under  nickel  plating  will  be 
found  to  answer  also  for  cobalt  by  sim- 
ply substituting  cobalt-  salts  for  those 
of  nickel  where  these  are  named.  The 
deposit  is  even  more  brilliant  than  that 
of  nickel.  (W.) 

Plating  with  Aluminium.  Dissolve 
any  desired  quantity  of  salt  of  alumin- 
ium, such  as  the  sulphate,  muriate, 
nitrate,  acetate,  cyanide,  etc.,  in  distilled 
water,  and  concentrate  the  solution  to 
20°  Beaume  in  a  suitable  vessel  to  hold 
the  articles  to  be  plated.  The  battery 
to  be  used  should  be  3  pairs  of  Bunsen's 
zinco-carbon,  with  the  elements  con- 
nected for  intensity,  and  an  anode  of 
aluminium  attached  to  the  negative 
wire.  The  solution  should  be  slightly 
acidulated  with  its  appropriate  acid, 
heated  to  140°  F.  and  kept  at  that  tem- 
perature during  the  operation. 

(Hiding  Copper  by  Boiling.  Take  a 
liquid  amalgam  consisting  of  4  parts  of 
mercury,  2  of  zinc,  and  1  of  gold.  Mix 
this  amalgam  with  8  parts  of  hydro- 


TECHNO-CH3EMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


chloric  acid  and  add  1  of  salt  of  tartar. 
Cleanse  the  copper  thoroughly  with 
aq lid-fords,  and  then  boil  it  in  the 
fluid  until  it  has  assumed  a  bright  gold 
color, 

To  Impart  a  'more  Brilliant  Gold 
Golor  to  Gilded  or  Gold-plated  Articles. 
Heduce  the  Following  ingredients  into 
an  impalpable  powder  ; 

(Sulphur     .     ,    » 5  parts. 

Alum -."  2     " 

Arsenic 2     " 

Turmeric 1  part. 

Native  antimony 1    " 

Boil  and  skim  urine,  put  the  powder 
in  this,  and  boil  for  £  hour.  Then 
place  the  articles  in  the  fluid  and  boil 
until  the  color  is  sufficiently  brilliant. 

Instead  of  urine  the  following  fluid 
may  be  used : 

Sal -ammoniac 3  parts. 

Common  salt 1  part. 

Vinegar 6  parts. 

Water 23    " 

To  Silver  Articles  of  Bessemer  Steel. 
Bessemer  sheet  steel  is  now  much  used, 
instead  of  brass  or  German  silver,  for 
manufacturing  all  kinds  of  utensils — 
soup  tureens,  tea  and  coffee-pots,  spoons, 
knives  and  forks,  etc.  C.  Safari,  of 
Vienna,  has  obtained  a  patent  for  coat- 
ing these  articles  with  silver  by  the 
following  process :  The  articles  are  first 
cleansed  from  all  adhering  grease  by 
washing  them  in  hot  lye.  They  are 
then  pickled  with  diluted  hydrochloric 
acid  and  scoured  with  sand.  Solution 
of  mercury  in  nitric  acid  is  dropped 
into  water  slightly  acidulated  with  hy- 
drochloric acid  until  e-  cleansed  strip 
of  copper  dipped  into  the  fluid  becomes 
covered  with  a  white  coating.  But  as 
iron  does  not  amalgamate,  like  other 
metals,  by  dipping  it  simply  into  the 
fluid,  it  is  connected  with  the  zinc  pole 
of  a  Bunsen  cell  and  submerged  in  the 
solution  of  mercury.  The  Bessemer 
steel  will  thus  accept  a  coating  of  mer- 
cury, when  it  is  taken  out,  thoroughly 
washed,  and  silvered  in  the  usual  silver 
bath.  The  articles  are  taken  from  the 
silver  b?th,  thoroughly  washed,  and 
heated  upon  a  coal  fire  until  they  hiss 
Avhen  touched  with  the  wet  finger. 
They  are  then  allowed  to  cool  off, 
scratch-brushed,  and,  if  necessary,  pol- 
ished. 


I  A  drietle's  Process  of  Silvering  Met  a  Is. 
\  Dissolve  35  ounces  of  silver  in  double 
!  that  quantity  of  nitric  acid.  Next  dis- 
solve 2  pounds  of  cyanide  of  potassium 
in  2$  gallons  of  water.  Filter  and  mix 
the  2  solutions.  Then  add  6i  ounces 
of  whiting,  and  put  the  fluid  in  given 
bottles.  When  articles  are  to  be  sil- 
vered, prepare  a  bath  of  1  part  of  the 
fluid  and  3  of  water.  Shake  the  bottle 
and  pour  the  fluid  into  the  bath.  The 
article,  after  it  has  been  silvered,  is 
polished  with  chalk. 

Pijfard's  Galvano-plostic  Silvering. 
The  cleansed  surfaces  of  the  articles  to 
be  silvered  are  first  washed  with  a  so- 
lution of  nitrate  of  silver,  so  that  a  thin 
film  is  formed.  When  dry,  the  article 
is  exposed  to  a  current  of  sulphide  of 
hydrogen.  The  coating  thus  produced 
is  very  conductive,  and  a  deposit  of 
silver  adheres  very  firmly  to  it  when 
the  article  is  brought  into  the  electro- 
plating bath. 

Silvering  Tincture.  Experiments 
have  shown  the  following  receipt  for  a 
silvering  tincture  to  be  excellent.  Pre- 
pare the  following  solutions : 

A.  2  parts  of  burned  lime,  5  of  grape 
sugar,  2  of  tartaric  acid,  650  of  water. 

The  solution  is  filtered  and  put  in 
bottles  which  should  be  filled  entirely 
full  and  well  corked. 

B.  Dissolve   20  parts  of  nitrate  of 
silver  in  20  of  aqua-ammonia,  and  then 
add  650  of  water. 

Just  before  the  tincture  is  to  be  used 
mix  solutions  A  and  B  together,  shake 
well  and  filter.  Metals  and  dry  vege- 
table substances,  such  as  wood  tissues, 
horn-buttons,  ivory,  etc.,  can  be  sil- 
vered with  this  fluid. 

Cold  Silvering  of  Copper.  The  amal- 
gam consists  of  1  part  of  the  finest  tin 
filings  and  2  of  mercury,  which  are  in- 
timately rubbed  together  in  a  porcelain 
mortar.  When  a  semi-' 


a  semi-liquid  amalgam 
(d,  add  1  part  of  silver 


has  been  obtained,  add  1  part  of  silver 
precipitated  from  a  nitric  suul  solu- 
tion by  metallic  z;nc  and  thoroughly 
washed.  When  ti.e  mixture  has  been 
made  homogeneous  by  rubbing,  mix  it 
thoroughly  with  about  8  parts  ot  bone- 
dust.  The  process  of  silvering  is  car- 
ried on  by  means  of  a  moist  cloth.  The 
silvering  is  accomplished  at  once,  and 
I  is  both  beautiful  and  durable.  The 
i  article  should  finally  be  rubbed  with  a 


ELECTRO-PLATING,  GALVANOPLASTY,  ETC. 


113 


dry  cloth.  If  many  and  large  pieces 
are  to  be  silvered,  it  is  better  to  amal- 
gamate the  surfaces  first  by  an  instan- 
taneous dip  into  a  saturated  solution  of 
mercury  in  nitric  acid.  This  process 
is  technically  called  "  quicking." 

New  Process  for  Making  Silvered 
Telescopic  Mirrors,  Telescopic  reflect- 
ing mirrors  can  be  cheaply  and  easily 
produced  by  the  electroplating  process. 
Take  a  mould  of  a  convex  surface 
made  of  a  mixture  which  is  either  an 
electrical  conductor  itself  or  else  a  non- 
conductor metallized  by  the  aid  of  ni- 
trate of  silver  and  phosphorus  dissolved 
in  sulphide  of  carbon.  la  either  case  the 
mould  is  plunged  in  an  electroplating 
bath  of  silver,  where  the  current  con- 
ducted very  slowly  to  the  mould  de- 
termines a  deposit  of  excellent  quality. 

When  the  silver  has  the  thickness  of 
an  ordinary  sheet  of  paper,  the  bath  of 
that  metal  is  replaced  by  one  of  copper 
to  obtain  a  solid  backing.  The  mould 
is  then  dissolved  or  melted,  and  the 
mirror  removed,  nothing  further  being 
necessary  than  a  light  polishing.  Per- 
fect mirrors  4  inches  in  diameter  have 
been  produced  in  this  manner. 

New  Process  for  Silvering  Iron  and 
Steel.  Pierre  dt  Villiers,  of  St.  Leonards, 
in  England,  has  devised  the  following 
process  of  silvering :  he  uses  an  alloy 
of  80  parts  of  tin,  18  of  lead,  and  2  of 
silver;  or  90  parts  of  tin,  9  of  lead,  and 
1  of  silver.  The  tin  is  first  melted,  and 
when  the  bath  has  acquired  a  white 
lustre  the  granular  lead  is  added,  and 
the  mixture  thoroughly  stirred  with  a 
pine  stick.  The  partly  melted  silver  is 
then  added,  and  again  stirred.  The 
fire  is  now  urged  until  the  surface  of 
the  bath  assumes  a  light  yellow  color, 
when  it  is  vigorously  stirred,  and  the 
al  loy  poured  out  in  ingots.  The  process 
of  silvering  steel  is  carried  on  in  the 
following  manner:  The  article,  for  in- 
stance a  knife-blade,  is  dipped  in  a  so- 
lution of  hydrochloric  or  sulphuric  acid 
consisting  of  1  to  10  parts  of  acid  in  100 
parts  of  distilled  or  rain  water.  When 
taken  from  this  acid  bath  it  is  at  once 
rinsed  off  in  clean  water,  then  dried  and 
rubbed  with  a  piece  of  soft  leather  or  a 
dry  sponge.  It  is  then  placed  in  a  muf- 
fle and  exposed  for  five  minutes  to  a 
temperature  of  150°  to  175°  F.  The 
object  of  this  operation  is  to  prepare 


the  steel  for  the  reception  of  the  alloy, 
making  it,  so  to  speak,  porous.  The 
article,  while  still  retaining  a  heat  of 
120°  to  140°  F.,  is  dipped  in  the  above- 
mentioned  alloy,  which  has  been  melted 
in  a  crucible  of  graphite  or  refractory 
clay  over  a  moderate  fire.  The  bath 
must  be  entirely  liquid,  and  stirred  with 
a  stick  of  pine  or  poplar  wood.  The 
surface  of  the  bath  should  have  a  beauti- 
ful white  silver-color.  To  coat  a  knife- 
blade  2  minutes  suffice  for  dipping. 
Larger  articles  must  be  immersed  up  to 
5  minutes. 

After  the  article  has  been  taken  from 
the  bath  it  is  dipped  in  cold  water,  or 
treated  otherwise  as  may  be  necessary 
for  hardening  it,  if  required,  but  it  must 
not  be  left  too  long  in  the  water  as  this 
frequently  renders  it  brittle.  Nothing 
further  is  now  necessary  than  drying 
the  article,  without  the  aid  of  heat,  by 
rubbing,  and  subsequently  polishing. 

The  articles  thus  treated  have  an 
appearance  resembling  silver  and  a 
similar  ring,  and  resist  oxidation  when 
exposed  to  the  air.  To  protect  them 
against  acids  they  are  dipped  into  a  bath 
of  60  parts  of  mercury,  39  of  tin,  and  1 
of  silver.  While  warm  they  are  then 
dipped  in  melted  silver,  or  plated  by 
the  electrolytic  process. 

The  silvering  is  extraordinarily  du- 
rable. It  is  claimed  that  this  process 
is  comparatively  cheap.  Should  this 
be  the  case,  this  process  of  silvering 
might  frequently  be  preferable  to 
nickelliug,  as  a  coating  of  nickel  is  apt 
to  flake  and  nickelled  articles  soon  lose 
their  lustre  by  handling. 

Tinning  of  Cast-iron.  Dissolve  1 
part  of  chloride  of  tin  in  10  of  water, 
and  2  parts  of  caustic  soda  in  20  of 
water,  and  mix  the  two  solutions.  The 
fluid  will  become  turbid,  but  this  exerts 
no  influence  whatever  upon  the  process 
of  tinning.  The  articles  to  be  tinned 
are  heated  before  they  are  dipped  into 
the  fluid.  A  fragment  of  metallic  tin 
should  be  placed  in  the  bath  during  the 
process,  and  the  liquid  must  be  fre- 
quently stirred.  • 

Another  Receipt.  Boil  three  parts 
by  weight  of  rye  flour  in  100  of  water 
for  30  minutes,  and  strain.  Add  to  the 
resulting  fluid,  which  should  be  clear 
but  thickly  fluid,  106  parts  of  sodium 
phosphate,  17  of  crystallized  stannous 


114 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


chloride,  67  of  solution  of  stannous 
chloride,  and  25  of  sulphuric  acid. 
The  articles  are  first  thoroughly 
cleansed  and  then  dipped  into  the  bath, 
where  they  remain  for  a  short  time. 

To  Tin  Cooking  Utensils.  The 
articles  are  placed  in  a  bath  of  8  parts 
of  stannous  chloride,  16  of  tartar,  and  2 
of  stannic  chloride,  the  presence  of  the 
latter  accelerating  the  process.  The 
articles  are  connected  by  a  wire  with 
the  positive  pole  of  a  Bunsen's  battery, 
while  the  negative  pole  communicates 
with  a  piece  of  tin  dipping  into  the 
fluid. 

Cold  Tinning.  The  articles  are 
freed  from  adhering  grease  by  im- 
mersion in  boiling  potash  lye,  then 
pickled  in  an  acid  bath  (15  to  20  per 
cent,  of  sulphuric  acid),  carefully 
scoured  with  sand,  and  brought  into  the 
tinning  bath.  This  consists  of  7  to  10£ 
ounces  of  tin  salt,  10i  ounces  of  alum, 
7  ounces  of  tartar,  in  22  gallons  of 
water.  A  strip  of  tin  is  wrapped 
around  the  different  articles  before  dip- 
ping them  into  the  bath,  where  they 
remain  for  8  or  10  hours  or  longer, 
according  to  the  thickness  of  the  coating 
they  are  to  receive.  The  articles  are 
taken  from  the  bath,  rinsed  off,  and 
placed  in  water  in  which  from  i  to  £ 
ounce  of  carbonate  of  magnesia  per 
quart  has  been  dissolved. 

New  Process  of  Galvanizing  Iron. 
The  article  to  be  galvanized  is  first 
cleansed  with  diluted  acid,  next  rinsed 
off,  then  placed  in  a  solution  of  zinc 
salt,  and  connected  with  the  positive 
pole  of  a  dynamo-machine.  Zinc  plates 
connected  with  the  negative  pole  are 
suspended  in  the  fluid,  and  the  machine 
is  set  to  work.  The  surface  of  zinc  pro- 
duced in  this  manner  is  provided  with 
a  metallic  lustre  by  quickly  moving 
the  articles  over  a  fire,  or  placing  them 
in  a  chamber  sufficiently  hot  to  melt 
the  zinc.  If  at  the  instant  that  this 
takes  place  a  shock  is  given  to  the  ar- 
ticles, the  coating  will  assume  the  span- 
gled appearance  so  much  sought  after. 

Gourlier's  Salt  Mixtures  for  Gal- 
vanic Coppering,  Bronzing,  etc.  The 
following  bath  is  used  for  coppering  : 
One  thousand  parts  of  distilled  water, 
40  of  yellow  prussiate  of  potash,  20  of 
subsulphide  of  copper,  and  20  of  potas- 
sium carbonate. 


For  a  Coating  of  Brass  add  25  part* 
of  sulphate  of  zinc  to  the  coppering 
fluid,  and  filter  the  solution. 

The  bath  for  Bronzing  Wrouglit  and 
Cast-iron  consists  of  1000  parts  of 
distilled  water,  58  of  yellow  prussiate 
of  potash,  15  of  chloride  of  copper,  40 
of  tin  salt,  and  40  of  sodium  hyposul- 
phite. Pour  the  above-mentioned  bath 
in  a  cast-iron  boiler  and  heat  over  a 
moderate  fire.  The  metal  to  be  coated 
with  copper,  brass,  or  bronze  is  con- 
nected with  the  cathode  of  the  galvanic 
battery  and  submerged  in  the  bath, 
using  as  an  anode  a  piece  of  the  metal 
that  is  to  be  deposited.  The  metals  to 
be  coated  must  first  be  thoroughly 
cleansed  or  polished. 

To  Coat  Wire  with  Brass.  A  warm 
bath  contained  in  an  oval  iron  boiler 
lined  with  sheet  brass  is  used  for  deposit- 
ing a  coat  of  brass  upon  wire  by  galvanic 
means.  The  sheets  of  brass  are  con- 
nected with  the  copper  pole  of  the 
battery  and  dipped  into  the  fluid.  The 
bundles  of  iron  wire  are  first  opened, 
dipped  into  sulphuric  acid,  then  sus- 
pended to  a  strong  wooden  peg,  and 
scoured  with  a  brush  and  sharp  sand. 
They  are  next  placed  over  a  strong 
copper  or  brass  rod  resting  upon  the  edge 
of  the  boiler  and  insulated  therefrom 
by  means  of  rubber  tubes,  and  con- 
nected with  the  zinc  pole  of  the  battery. 
The  wires  now  receive  a  coating  of  cop- 
per, and  then  the  deposit  of  brass.  As 
they  are  only  partly  submerged  in  the 
bath,  they  must  be  turned  from  time 
to  time.  They  are  finished  by  washing, 
and  drying  in  sawdust.  For  other 
articles  a  cold  bath  is  prepared  in  a  box 
lined  with  gutta-percha. 

The  baths  are  prepared  in  the  follow- 
ing manner : 

Warm  Bath.  Four  and  three-quarter 
ounces  of  blue  vitriol,  4£  to  5£  ounces 
of  sulphate  of  zinc  are  dissolved  in  1 
gallon  of  water.  The  solution  is  pre- 
cipitated with  2  pounds  of  crystallized 
soda,  decanted  and  washed.  A  solution 
of  1  pound  of  soda  and  8i  ounces  of 
sodium  bisulphate  in  1  gallon  of  water 
is  poured  over  the  precipitate.  The 
mixture  is  stirred  and  commercial  po- 
tassium cyanide  added  until  the  fluid 
becomes  clear.  The  fluid  is  then 
filtered  off  from  the  suspended  ferric 
oxide. 


ENAMELS  AND  ENAMELLING. 


115 


For  the  cold  bath  mix  : 

Calcium  carbonate,  freshly  pre- 
pared     2J4  ounces. 

Carbonate  of  zinc 2J4      " 

Sodium  carbonate 4J^       " 

Monosodium  hydrogen  sulphite  .  4}xj       " 

Potassium  cyanide 9  " 

Arsenious  acid 1^  drachm. 

Water 1     gallon. 

Coppering  Bath  for  Wrought  and 
Cast-iron  or  Steel  Articles.  Melt  in  a 
crucible  1  part  of  dry  chloride  of  cop- 
per and  5  or  6  parts  of  cryolite,  com- 
bined with  chloride  of  barium  to  make 
it  more  fusible.  This  mixture  will 
give  a  permanent  coating  of  any  desired 
thickness  to  the  articles,  according  to 
duration  of  their  immersion. 

Simple  Fire-plating  for  Iron.  A  me- 
tallic surface  washed  with  sodium  amal- 
gam will  take  up  a  concentrated  solution 
of  gold  poured  upon  it,  and  after  driv- 
ijlg  off  the  mercury  by  the  heat  of  a 
lamp  will  present  a  gilded  surface 
capable  of  being  polished,  and  will  also 
show  any  design  drawn  upon  the  first 
metal. 

Method  and  Apparatus  for  Preparing 
Paper  Matrices  for  Stereotype  Plates. 
The  separate  layers  of  the  matrix  are 
pasted  together  with  a  paste  of  starch, 
glue,  glycerine,  turpentine,  and  water. 
The  matrix,  while  still  moist,  is  taken 
from  the  types,  and  dried  in  a  wire  frame 
by  hot  air. 

The  wire  frame  b  (Fig.  11)  is  placed 
in  the  muffle  c,  which  is  provided  on 


Fig.  11. 

the  top  with  holes  d  for  the  escape  of 
the  moisture,  and  heated  by  the  furnace 
gases  conveyed  to  it  through  the  flue  g. 
In  the  muffle  is  another  heating  pipe 


mx  provided  with  openings  through 
which  the  air  heated  in  the  flue  g  is 
conveyed  into  the  interior  of  the  muffle. 

Composition  fur  Moulds  for  Ga/vano- 
plastic  Deposits.  Melt  together  6  parts 
of  white  wax,  2  of  asphaltum,  2  of  stea- 
rine,  and  1  of  lard,  and  add  sufficient 
lampblack  to  color  the  massdeep  black. 
To  give  more  body  to  the  mixture,  and 
to  prevent  it  from  sticking  to  the  model, 
add  some  plaster  of  Paris.  The  model 
is  then  oiled,  and  the  melted  composi- 
tion poured  over  it  at  as  low  a  temper- 
ature as  possible.  When  cold  it  will 
form  a  durable  mould. 

Elastic  Moulds  for  Galvanoplastic 
Copies  in  very  high  relief  can  be  pre- 
pared from  20  parts  of  glue  and  2  of 
brown  rock-candy.  Both  substances 
are  dissolved  in  sufficient  hot  water  to 
form,  on  cooling,  a  stiff"  jelly.  After 
the  elastic  moulds  have  been  prepared, 
they  are  used  as  a  matrix  for  the  stiff* 
moulds  by  pouring  into  them  a  tepid 
mixture  of  12  parts  of  yellow  wax,  12 
of  mutton  suet,  and  4  of  rosin.  This 
mass,  on  cooling,  becomes  very  solid. 


ENAMELS  AND  ENAMELLING. 

To  Enamel  Cast-iron  Utensils.  This 
is  done  in  Lower  Silesia  by  means  of 
two  masses,  one  for  a  ground,  and  the 
other  for  a  surface  coat.  For  the^round 
mass  110  pounds  of  quartz,  50  pounds 
of  borax,  and  16£  pounds  of  fluorspar 
are  ground  as  fine  as  possible,  and  fused 
together  in  clay  crucibles.  Thirty-five 
pounds  of  the  resulting  mass  are  then 
mixed  with  14  to  27  i  pounds  of  quartz, 
9  to  14  pounds  of  gray  clay  and  1  pound 
of  borax.  This  mixture  is  ground,  and 
during  the  grinding  there  should  be 
added  5  j  pounds  of  clay  and  H  pounds 
of  borax.  The  composition  is  then 
formed  into  a  paste  with  water,  applied 
to  the  vessels  and  burned  in. 

For  the  surface  coat  the  following 
ingredients  are  mixed  together: 

Fluorspar 5^  pounds. 

Xinc  oxide 214       " 

Stannic  oxide 10%      " 

Bone  flour 1  V(>  pound. 

Snmltine        1  to  \%  ounces, 

To  this  are  added : 

Fluorspar 35l/4  pounds. 

Borax 20  to  21^      «« 


116 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Sodium  carbonate 7      pounds 

Nitre 2%  to  3# 

and  the  mixture  fused  in  refractory 
crucibles  with  a  hole  in  the  bottom 
through  which  the  liquid  mass  escapes 
into  a  vessel  placed  beneath  the  fur- 
nace. The  mass,  when  cold,  is  pounded 
and  ground,  and  4  ounces  of  washed 
white  clay  and  i  pound  of  zinc  oxide 
added,  daring  the  grinding  process,  to 
every  66  pounds  of  the  mass.  The  com- 
position is  then  applied  like  the  first, 
and  burned  in. 

Enamel  for  Sheet-iron  Vessels. 
Cleanse  the  vessels  by  "  pickling "  in 
diluted  sulphuric  acid,  rinse  off  with 
water,  and  scour  with  hne  sand.  Then 
apply  a  solution  of  gum  Arabic  in 
water ;  dust  upon  this,  while  still  moist, 
the  enamelling  powder,  and  dry  at  212° 
F.  When  the  vessel  is  dry,  knock  the 
excess  of  powder  gently  off  with  the 
hand,  and  observe  whether  there  are 
any  places  which  have  not  been  dusted. 
Should  this  be  the  case,  they  must  be 
again  treated  in  the  same  manner. 
The  enamel  is  prepared  in  the  follow- 
ing manner :  Sixty-five  parts  of  pow- 
dered crystal  glass,  10  of  calcined  soda, 
and  6  of  boracic  acid  are  mixed,  ground 
and  sifted  several  times  to  make  them 
homogeneous.  This  powder,  after  be- 
ing liquefied  upon  the  sheet-iron  vessel 
in  a  red  hot  muffle,  forms  the  ground 
for  the  actual  enamelling,  which  is  not 
quite  so  refractory.  This  consists  of  65 
parts  of  crystal  glass,  10  of  calcined 
soda,  2  of  boracic  acid,  and  4  of  litharge. 

To  Enamel  Iron.  Powder  and  mix 
3V  ounces  of  crystal  glass,  1  ounce  of 
purified  potash,  1  ounce  of  saltpetre,  i 
ounce  of  borax,  and  5i  ounces  of  minium. 
Heat  the  ingredients  in  a  clean  covered 
crucible,  whereby  a  strong  effervescence 
will  at  first  take  place,  and  the  mass 
will  finally  fuse  to  clear  liquid  glass. 
This  is  poured  upon  an  iron  plate 
previously  moistened,  cooled  off  with 
water,  and  rubbed  to  a  thin  paste  iipon 
a  glass  plate.  Pour  this  paste  over  the 
article  to  be  enamelled,  allow  it  to  dry 
very  slowly,  and  then  place  the  article 
in  a  hot  muffle  furnace.  The  enamel 
will  in  a  few  minutes  fuse  very  uni- 
formly without  bubbles  and  form  a 
lustrous,  transparent  surface. 

To  impart  an  agreeable  tint  to  this 


enamel,  mix  with  the  above  1£  drachms 
of  a  preparation  of  cobalt  obtained  by 
saturating  nitric  acid  with  cobalt,  de- 
composing this  with  common  salt  and 
evaporating  the  mixture  to  dryness. 
This  gives  a  pale  blue  color  to  the 
enamel. 

To  Enamel  Copper  Cooking  Utensils. 
Powder  and  mix  12  parts  of  white  fluor- 
spar, 12  of  uuburned  gypsum,  and  1  of 
borax,  and  fuse  the  mixture  in  a  cru- 
cible. Pour  the  mass  out  and  when 
cold  rub  it  into  a  paste  with  water. 
Apply  this  with  a  brush  to  the  inside 
of  the  vessel,  and  place  this  in  a 
moderately  warm  place,  so  that  the 
paste  will  dry  uniformly.  When  dry, 
heat  the  vessel  to  such  a  degree  in  a 
muffle  furnace  that  the  paste,  which 
has  been  applied,  liquefies.  When  cold, 
the  result  will  be  a  white,  opaque 
enamel. 

A  tiother  Process  of  Enamelling  Cast- 
iron.  Keep  the  articles  at  a  red  heat 
in  sand  for  i  hour,  cool  off  slowly,  and 
cleanse  them  with  hot  diluted  sul- 
phuric or  hydrochloric  acid ;  then 
rinse  with  water,  and  dry.  Coat  them 
with  a  mixture  composed  of  6  parts  of 
flint  glass,  3  of  borax,  1  of  minium,  1 
of  oxide  of  zinc,  finely  powdered  and 
roasted  for  4  hours  at  a  red  heat,  then 
rendered  semi-fluid  by  increased  tem- 
perature, then  cooled  in  cold  water,  and 
1  part  of  it  mixed  with  2  parts  of  bone 
meal  and  made  into  a  paste  Ayith  water. 
When  the  coating  on  the  article  is  dry, 
apply  a  mixture  composed  of  32  parts 
of  calcined  bones,  16  of  kaolin,  14  of 
feldspar,  4  of  potash,  mixed  with  water, 
dried,  cooled,  and,  when  powdered, 
made  into  a  paste  with  16  parts  of  flint 
glass,  5i  parts  of  calcined  bones,  and  3 
of  calcined  quartz  with  sufficient  water. 
When  this  second  coat  is  dry,  apply  a 
mixture  composed  of  4  parts  of  feldspar, 
4  of  pure  sand,  4  of  potash,  6  of  borax, 
1  of  oxide  of  zinc,  1  of  saltpetre,  1  of 
white  arsenic,  and  1  of  pure  chalk, 
mixed,  calcined  and  cooled,  and  rubbed 
to  a  fine  powder  with  3|  parts  of  cal- 
cined bones  and  3  of  quartz.  The 
coated  articles  are  heated  in  a  muffle  in 
a  furnace,  which  fuses  the  last  two  coat- 
ings, and  forms  an  adhesive  and  bril- 
liant white  enamel. 

To  Enamel  and  Cement  Metals  and 
Other  Substances.  Cleanse  the  surface. 


ENAMELS  AND  ENAMELLING. 


117 


of  the  metal  and  coat  it  with  water- 
glass.  Then  treat  it  with  a  mixture  of 
waterglass  and  pulverized  asbestos,  to 
which  lime  or  gypsum  can  be  added, 
and  heat  it  strongly. 

This  mixture  may  also  be  used  to 
join  metallic  and  other  substances. 

Enamel  for  Watch  Dials.  The  dials 
are  prepared  with  a  backing  of  sheet- 
iron  having  raised  edges  to  receive  the 
enamel  in  powder,  which  is  fused.  After 
cooling,  the  lettering  and  figuring  are 
printed  on  the  plate  with  soft  black 
enamel  by  transferring.  The  dial  is 
again  placed  in  a  muffle  to  fuse  the 
enamel  of  the  lettering  or  figuring. 
The  enamel  used  is  composed  of  white 
lead,  arsenic,  flint  glass,  saltpetre, 
borax,  and  ground  flint,  reduced  to 
powder,  fused,  and  formed  into  cakes. 

Colored  Enamels.  The  ingredients  are 
pounded  to  a  fine  powder  in  a  stone  mor- 
tar and  then  placed  in  a  heated  crucible. 

To  prepare  the  fluxes  a  suitable  fur- 
nace is  used,  which  must  be  entirely  free 
from  rust  and  lined  up  to  the  cover 
with  fire-bricks  set  in  clay  so  that  only 
the  opening  for  the  door  remains  free. 
Through  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the 
cover,  which  is  also  provided  with  a 
cover,  the  ingredients  in  the  crucible 
are  stirred  with  an  iron  rod. 

To  secure  the  crucible  a  piece  of 
brick  is  laid  upon  the  grate.  The  firing 
is  done  either  with  charcoal  alone  or 
with  charcoal  mixed  with  coke. 

Preparation  of  Fluxes.  I.  Fuse: 
Eight  parts  of  minium,  1-1  of  borax, 

2  of   ground    flint,    and    6    of   flint 
glass. 

II.  Fuse:  Ten  parts  of  flint  glass,  1 
of  white  arsenic,  and  1  of  saltpetre. 

III.  Fuse:  One  part  of  minium  and 

3  of  flint  glass. 

IV.  Fuse :   Nine  and  one-half  parts 
of  minium,  5\  of  borax,  and  8  of  flint 
glass. 

V.  Fuse :   Six  parts  of  flint  glass,  7 
of  the  flux  prepared  according  to  No. 
II.,  and  8  of  minium. 

VI.  Fuse  :  Six  parts  of  the  flux  pre- 
pared according  to  No.  IV.,  with  1  of 
colcothar. 

VII.  Fuse:   Six  parts  of  minium,  4 
of  borax,  and  2  of  powdered  flint. 

The  fluxes  prepared  as  above  are 
cooled  off'  in  water,  then  dried  and  finally 
powdered  in  a  stone  mortar. 


Blue  Enamel.  Powder  and  mix  4 
parts  of  black  oxide  of  cobalt,  9  of  flint, 
and  13  of  saltpetre.  Fuse  them  thor- 
oughly over  a  charcoal  or  coke  fire, 
pulverize,  wash  in  cold  water,  and 
triturate  1  part  of  this  powder  with  1  of 
flux  No.  V. 

Another  Receipt.  Fuse  together  1 
part  of  black  oxide  of  cobalt  and  1  of 
borax.  Then  mix  by  melting  over  a 
good  fire  2  parts  of  this,  10  of  blue 
pot  metal  glass,  and  £  of  minium. 

Brown  Enamel.  Fuse  together  2£ 
parts  of  pyrolusite,  8£  of  minium,  and 

4  of  pulverized  flint.    Take  1£  parts  of 
this  mixture   and  triturate  it  with   1 
part  of  flux   No.  IV.,  and   li  of  iron 
filings. 

Reddish-Brown  Enamel.  Triturate 
in  water  1  part  of  brown  sulphate  of 
iron  and  3  of  flux  No.  I. 

Vandyke-Brown  Enamel.  Fuse  to- 
gether in  a  crucible  3  parts  of  flux 
No.  IV.,  and  1  of  iron  filings,  and  lift 
it  out  by  the  tongs.  Take  5  parts  of 
this  and  1  of  black  oxide  of  cobalt, 
and  rub  to  a  paste  with  water. 

Yellow  Enamel.  Mix  in  a  stone 
mortar  8  parts  of  minium,  1  of  anti- 
mony oxide,  and  1  of  white  oxide  of 
tin.  Place  the  mixture  in  a  crucible, 
bring  it  to  a  red  heat,  then  cool  it  off, 
and  rub  1  part  of  this  and  4i  of  flux 
No.  IV.  to  a  paste  with  water. 

Orange  Enamel.  Mix  and  heat 
without  fusing  12  parts  of  minium,  1 
of  red  sulphate  of  iron,  4  of  antimony 
oxide,  and  3  of  pulverized  flint.  Tritu- 
rate with  water  1  part  of  this  and  2£ 
of  flux  No.  VII. 

Green  Enamel.  Triturate  with  water 

5  parts  of  green  frit,  £  of  flux  No.  II., 
and   24  of  flux   No.   VI.     The  green 
frit  is  prepared  by  fusing  together  3 
parts  of  pulverized  flint,  3  of  flux  No. 
[.,  li  of  green  pot  metal  glass,  1\  of 
minium,  7i  of  borax,  and  l£  of  green 
oxide  of  copper.     Pound  the  mixture 
to  a  fine  powder  in  a  stone  mortar. 

Dark  Red  Enamel.  Triturate  with 
water  1  part  of  brown  sulphate  of  iron 
and  2.V  of  flux  No.  VII. 

Pale  Red  Enamel.  Triturate  with 
water  1  part  of  red  sulphate  of  iron,  3 
of  flux  No.  I.,  and  H  of  white  lead. 

Black  Enamel.  Triturate  with  water 
L  part  of  black  calcined  umber,  1>  of 
oxide  of  cobalt,  1^  of  black  oxide 


118 


TECHNO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


of  copper,  and  3  of  flux  No.  IV.  Allow 
it  to  dry  thoroughly,  then  heat  it  in 
a  fire  upon  a  brick  covered  with  pul- 
verized flint,  and  add  i  part  of  flux 
No.  III. 

Very  Beautiful  Black  Enamel  for 
Inlaying  and  Ground.  Mix  and  tritu- 
rate with  sufficient  water  1  part  of 
black  oxide  of  copper  and  2  of  flux 
No.  IV. 

Black  Enamel  for  Painting  and 
Mixing  with  Other  Colors.  Heat  small 
pieces  of  umber  in  a  crucible  until 
they  become  black ;  then  wash  in  boil- 
ing water  and  dry. 

Fuse  together  10  parts  of  this  pre- 
pared umber,  10  of  black  oxide  of 
cobalt,  10\  of  blue  flint  glass,  7i  of 
borax,  and  12  of  minium.  For  use, 
triturate  2  parts  of  this  mixture  and  1 
of  flux  No.  IV. 

Opaque  White  Enamel.  Calcine  in 
a  cruciole  1  part  of  buck's-horn  shav- 
ings until  they  are  entirely  white,  and 
rub  them  to  a  paste  with  1  part  of  flux 
No.  I.  Then  triturate  with  water  1 
part  of  Venetian  white  enamel  in 
cakes,  and  1  of  flux  No.  VIII.,  and 
fuse  the  two  mixtures  together. 

Glass  Enamel  for  Iron.  The  articles, 
kitchen  utensils,  signs,  etc.,  coated 
with  this  enamel,  are  not  affected  by 
atmospheric  influences,  nor  destroyed 
by  an  ordinary  fire,  and  do  not  rust. 

Intimately  mix  4  parts  of  powdered 
glass,  2  of  spar,  1  of  saltpetre,  i  of  a 
part  of  zinc  oxide.  Fuse  them  in  a 
crucible,  and  pour  into  moulds  to  be- 
come cool.  For  use,  the  necessary 
quantity  is  triturated  with  water.  Heat 
the  iron  utensil  to  a  red  heat  in  a 
muffle  furnace  and  apply  the  enamel, 
which  will  present  a  brilliant  glass 
appearance.  To  color  the  enamel  bine, 
add  cobalticoxide ;  for  red,  ammonium ; 
for  black,  manganic  oxide  ;  for  yellow, 
uranic  oxide;  for  brown,  ferric  oxide; 
for  green,  a  mixture  of  2  parts  of  stan- 
nic oxkle  and  1  of  manganic  oxide; 
for  pure  white,  stannic  oxide. 

Niello.  This  metallic  enamel  is 
composed  of  4  parts  of  fine  silver,  9  of 
pure  copper,  9  of  pure  lead,  2  of  borax, 
and  48  of  flowers  of  sulphur.  The 
silver  is  first  melted,  the  copper  is  then 
added  and,  when  both  are  liquid,  the 
lead.  The  melted  metals  are  stirred 
with  stick  charcoal  to  insure  homo- 


geneity. The  mixture  is  then  poured 
into  a  large  crucible  containing  the 
sulphur.  The  crucible  is  placed  again 
upon  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  to  keep 
the  mass  liquid.  It  is  then  poured 
over  brushwood  into  water  so  that 
granules  are  formed.  These  granules  are 
collected,  dried  by  exposure  to  the  air, 
and  then  pulverized  in  a  mortar.  This 
powder  is  mixed  with  spirit  of  sal-am- 
moniac to  a  paste,  applied  by  heating 
the  object  to  be  decorated  and  rubbing 
the  paste  into  the  lines.  '1  he  design  is 
engraved  on  the  metal  object  to  be 
ornamented,  the  lines  being  more  pro- 
nounced and  stronger  than  on  an  or- 
dinary copper  plate  for  printing.  When 
skilfully  applied  the  paste  adheres 
firmly.  An  excess  of  it  is  removed  by 
files,  the  surface  is  then  stoned  and 
polished.  Niello  is  undoubtedly  the 
best  means  for  decorating,  in  a  quiet, 
rich  manner,  surfaces  exposed  to  fric- 
tion or  wear;  it  is  tougher  than  euame! . 


FEATHERS,  OSTRICH,  MARABOUTS, 
ETC.  How  TO  WASH,  RESTORE,  AND 
DYE. 

Ostrich  feathers,  as  is  well  known, 
are  used  most  for  ornamental  purposes. 
The  most  beautiful  ostrich  feathers 
come  into  the  market  from  Algiers, 
Btirbary,  and  the  Cnpe  of  Good  Hope; 
inferior  qualities  from  /Senegal,  Mada- 
gascar•,  and  by  way  of  Alexandria. 
The  next  prominent  are  the  cock 
feathers. 

Heron  plumes  from  different  va- 
rieties of  herons  are  dearer  and  scarcer. 
The  black  feathers,  which  come  mostly 
from  Crete,  are  very  highly  valued,  the 
white  less  so.  The  latter  come  from 
Crete,  Canada,  and  the  East  Indies; 
the  gray  mostly  from  East  Prussia. 

Falcon  plumes  are  the  feathers  of  the 
gerfalcon. 

Bird  of  Paradise  plumes  are  the 
tail  and  wing  feathers  of  a  species  of 
bird  inhabiting  New  Guinea  and  New 
Holland. 

J/  irahouts.  These  come  mostly  from 
South  America,  especially  from  the 
American  ostrich.  According  to  others 
from,  a  species  of  stork  inhabiting  the 
East  Indies,  Java,  etc.,  where  it  is 
i  frequently  raised  for  the  sake  of  its 


FEATHERS-TO  WASH,  RESTORE,  AND  DYE. 


119 


feathers.  Imitations  of  marabouts  are 
produced  from  the  white  down  of  the 
turkey. 

To  Wash  Feathers  and  Marabouts. 
Take  a  piece  of  white  soap  of  the  size 
of  a  walnut  and  dissolve  it  in  a  pint  of 
water  by  heating  over  a  fire.  When 
the  soap  water  has  become  tepid  pour 
it  into  a  wash  bowl  and  dip  the  feather 
into  it.  Then  take  the  feather  into  the 
left  hand  and,  with  the  thumb  and  in- 
dex finger  of  the  right  hand,  squeeze 
carefully  from  the  top  down  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  vane.  After  having  cleansed 
the  feathers  in  this  manner  dip  them  in 
fresh,  clean  water,  rinse  them  off  care- 
fully, and  starch  them  by  dipping  in 
water  in  which  a  tablespoonfnl  of  raw 
starch  has  been  dissolved,  and  colored 
with  a  few  drops  of  liquid  wash-blue. 
Feathers  which  have  been  frequeutly 
washed  especially  require  this  starch- 
ing. After  the  feathers  have  been 
starched  lay  them  upon  a  clean  linen 
cloth  and  allow  them  to  dry — in  sum- 
mer in  the  sun,  in  winter  near  a  fire. 
Before  they  are  entirely  dry  rub  them 
between  the  hands  until  they  have  re- 
gained their  former  appearance.  As 
the  paper  wrapped  around  the  wire 
softens  during  the  washing  it  must  be 
renewed.  For  this  purpose  cut  long 
and  narrow  strips  of  paper.  Fasten  the 
strip  where  the  wire  joins  the  feather, 
and  wrap  the  paper  obliquely  around 
the  wire  by  turning  the  latter  between 
the  fingers. 

To  Bleach  Feathers.  Feathers  turned 
yellow  are  bleached,  according  to  one 
process,  by  soaking  them  for  a  few 
hours  in  a  warm  soap  bath  (175°  to  185° 
F.),  which  should  not  be  too  strong, 
rinsing,  and  exposing  them,  strung 
upon  a  thread,  for  some  time  to  the  sun, 
frequently  moistening  them  in  the 
meanwhile. 

According  to  another  process,  the 
feathers,  after  having  been  treated  in 
the  warm  soap  bath,  are  rinsed  off  and 
brought  into  a  bath  of  water  acidulated 
with  sulphurous  acid.  Here  they  re- 
main for  20  to  30  hours,  are  then  washed, 
drawn  through  a  weak,  lukewarm  soap 
bath,  and  dried  in  the  sun,  or  left  in  the 
sun  for  1  or  2  days,  being  frequently 
moistened. 

According  to  Dobereiner  a  solution 
of  carbonate  of  ammonia  is  the  best 


!  means  of  bleaching  feathers,  as  it  effects 
j  the  same  purpose  in  a  much  shorter 
time  than  sulphurous  acid. 

To  jRestore  Crushed  and  Bent  Feath- 
.  ers.  Expose  the  feathers  for  a  few 
j  moments  to  steaming,  or  dip  them  for 
\  one  minute  into  boiling  water.  Then 
|  take  them  out  and  let  them  lie  for  some 
!  time  in  water  of  medium  temperature. 
j  To  be  convinced  of  the  extraordinary 
I  effect  of  this  simple  process  it  is  only 
I  necessary  to  crush  an  ordinary  goose- 
!  quill  lengthwise  and  to  treat  it  in  this 
manner,  when  it  will  come  from  the 
j  water-bath  in  a  condition  which  will 
I  not  show  in  the  slightest  degree  that  it 
ever  had  been  bent  or  crushed. 

To  Dye  Feathers.      The  dyeing  of 

feathers  is  not  very  difficult;  it  can  be 

done  either  warm  or  cold.    All  colors, 

except  black,  take  the  more  brilliantly 

1  the  whiter  the    feathers  were    before 

'  dyeing. 

The  quill  is  first  made  as  porous  as 
possible  without  injuring  its  lustre. 
j  This  is  done  by  rubbing  it  with  a  piece 
I  of  carbonate  of  ammonia  without  allow- 
ing the  thumb  of  the  hand  to  touch  the 
quill.  By  this  the  horn-like  skin  upon 
the  quill  is  softened  and  the  oil  removed 
from  the  surface.  The  feather  is  next 
placed  in  a  warm  soap  bath  and  then 
rinsed  in  cold  water  until  all  traces  of 
soap  have  been  removed.  The  feathers 
are  then  prepared  for  dyeing. 

To  remove  the  oil,  Reimann  recom- 
mends baths  of  carbonate  of  ammonia 
or  a  weak  solution  of  soda,  in  which  the 
feathers  are  carefully  placed  so  that 
they  cannot  bend  or  break.  After  they 
have  been  dyed  they  must  be  kept  in 
constant  motion  while  drying,  so  that 
the  down  will  raise  up  and  the  feather 
assume  its  natural  shape  and  form. 

To  Dye  Feathers  Black.  This  is  the 
most  important  and  at  the  same  time 
most  difficult  color.  A  warm  bath  (85° 
F.)  of  10  gallons  of  water  in  which  1 
pound  of  soda  has  been  dissolved  is 
used  for  8  ounces  of  feathers.  The 
quills  are  rubbed  with  a  piece  of  car- 
bonate of  ammonia,  and  the  feathers 
placed  in  the  bath  and  allowed  to  re- 
main for  24  hours.  Instead  of  soda, 
twice  the  quantity  of  carbonate  of  am- 
monia may  be  used  and  the  feathers 
i  allowed  to  remain  in  the  bath  over 
i  night.  They  are  then  taken  out,  rinsed 


120 


TECHNO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


off  with  warm  water,  and  placed  for  5 
to  6  hours  in  a  bath  of  ferric  nitrate  7° 
Beaume  strong,  when  they  are  taken 
out  and  rinsed  in  cold  water.  Now 
make  an  infusion  of  2  pounds  of  log- 
wood and  2  pounds  of  quercitron ;  place 
the  feathers  in  the  tepid  bath,  work 
them  while  in  it,  and  heat  the  latter 
gradually  until  it  is  hot,  but  not  to  the 
boiling  point.  Finally  dissolve  3£ 
ounces  of  potash  in  H  gallons  of  water, 
and  stir  8  ounces  of  oil  into  the  solu- 
tion until  it  is  uniformly  distributed  in 
it.  Draw  the  feathers  separately  through 
this  bath,  allow  them  to  drain  off,  and 
swing  them.  For  this  purpose  the 
quills  of  all  the  feathers  are  fastened  to 
a  long  cord  and  this  is  put  up  in  a  dry- 
ing chamber.  Several  such  cords  are 
connected  in  the  centre  by  a  cord  drawn 
across  them,  the  end  of  which  is  moved 
to  and  fro  for  some  time.  By  this  means 
a  constant  swinging  motion  is  imparted 
to  the  feathers  suspended  to  the  cords 
while  they  are  drying,  and  they  thus 
regain  their  natural  lustre.  If  but  few 
feathers  are  to  be  dyed,  take  each  feather 
by  the  quill  and  swing  it  before  the 
open  door  of  a  stove  until  it  is  dry. 
Many  dyers,  after  the  feathers  have 
been  dyed  and  rinsed,  place  them  in 
layers  in  a  box,  dusting  each  layer  with 
gypsum.  They  are  taken  out,  while 
still  moist,  and  dried  by  swinging,  when 
the  last  traces  of  gypsum  are  removed 
with  a  soft  brush.  In  this  case  no  oil 
bath  is  used.  The  quills  are  then 
rubbed  smooth  and  the  feathers  curled 
with  a  suitable  iron-. 

Other  Receipts  for  Dr/cinq  Feathers 
Black.  I.  A  mordant  is  prepared  by 
dissolving : 

Green  vitriol 1      pound. 

Blue  vitriol 4     ounces 

Alum  .     . 4 

In  water 1%  gallons. 

The  feathers  to  be  dyed  are  kept  in 
this  solution  for  3  days,  being  frequently 
turned  during  the  time,  when  they  are 
taken  out  and  rinsed  in  clean,  cold 
water.  Now  prepare  an  infusion  of: 

Ground  logwood 1      pound. 

Ground  fustic 1          " 

In  water K  to  2£  gallon. 

When  it  has  been  thoroughly  boiled, 
filter  the  decoction,  place  the  mordanted 


feathers  in  it,  and  allow  them  to  re* 
main  until  they  are  entirely  black. 
Take  them  out  and  rinse  them  in  cold 
water  until  this  runs  off  entirely  clear. 
They  are  then  dried  and  rubbed  be- 
tween the  hands  with  a  very  small 
quantity  of  oil,  and  finally  curled. 

II.  Mix  2  pounds  of  a  solution  of 
ferric  nitrate  of  60°  Beaume  with  If 
gallons  of  cold  water.  Keep  the  feath- 
ers in  this  mixture  for  12  hours.  Then 
take  them  out,  rinse  in  cold  water,  and 
finish  the  dyeing  in  a  mixture  of  6i 
pounds  of  an  infusion  of  logwood  and  a 
like  quantity  of  an  infusion  of  fustic, 
not  hotter  than  the  hand  can  bear. 
Place  the  cold  feathers  in  this  bath  and 
heat  gradually  in  a  water-bath.  When 
the  feathers  have  absorbed  the  coloring 
matter  take  them  out  and  add  to  the 
bath  i  ounce  of  turmeric.  Place  the 
feathers  in  this  for  -V  hour.  After  they 
are  dyed  black  bring  them  successively 
into  3  lukewarm  baths  of  soap  and 
water  and  then  dry  them.  When  dry 
rub  them  between  the  hands  with  a  lit- 
tle oil  and  curl  them. 

To  Dye  Feathers  Brown.  Prepare 
the  feathers  in  the  same  manner  as  for 
dyeing  black,  and  treat  them  in  an  in- 
fusion of  2  poijnds  of  catechu  in  the 
same  manner  as  given  under  black. 
After  they  have  been  taken  from  this 
bath  place  them  in  a  warm  bath  120° 
to  140°  F.  of  4  ounces  of  potassium 
chromate  in  1J  gallons  of  water,  and 
work  them  until  they  are  dyed.  If  a 

J)ark  Brown  Color  is  desired,  put  the 
feathers,  after  they  have  been  taken 
from  the  catechu  bath,  into  a  cold  bath 
of  acetate  of  iron  of  2°  Beaume,  and 
then  into  the  potassium  chromate  bath. 

Puce-colored.  Dissolve  4£  ounces  of 
alum  in  3£  quarts  of  water.  Soak  the 
feathers  in  this  for  12  hours,  take  them 
out,  rinse  with  cold  water,  and  place 
them  in  a  lukewarm  bath  of  4^  pounds 
of  infusion  of  logwood,  and  a  like 
quantity  of  infusion  of  Brazil  wood 
until  they  have  acquired  the  desired 
color.  Then  take  them  out,  wash,  and 
place  them  repeatedly  in  a  quite  hot 
bath  of  logwood  and  Brazil  wood, 
when  the  puce-color  will  be  obtained. 
The  color  may  also  be  produced  by 
placing  the  feathers  in  a  bath  of  J 
gallon  of  cold  water  and  a  like  quantity 
of  decoction  of  logwood,  and  heating 


FEATHERS— TO  WASH,  RESTORE,  AND   DYE. 


121 


this.  The  feathers  are  then  taken  out, 
3£  ounces  of  hydroehlorate  of  tin  are 
added  to  the  bath,  the  feathers  re- 
placed in  it,  and  allowed  to  remain 
until  the  bath  is  cold.  They  are  then 
taken  out  and  rinsed  off  with  cold 
water. 

To  Dye  Feathers  Blue.  Prepare  a 
solution  of  1  pound  of  finely  ground 
indigo  in  4£  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid. 
Of  this  solution  stir  10  drops  into 
|  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  fix  the 
color  contained  in  this  fluid  on  a  close 
white  woollen  cloth  of  about  2  square 
inches.  Then  remove  every  trace  of 
acid  by  washing  with  clean  cold  water. 
After  the  cloth  has  been  wrung  out 
place  it  in  a  solution  of  1  ounce  of 
crystallized  soda  in  3-V  pints  of  boiling 
water,  draw  off  the  fluid,  and  dissolve 
in  it  2i  ounces  of  tartaric  acid.  If  the 
feathers  are  to  be  dyed  pearl  blue,  dis- 
solve 1  ounce  of  alum  in  2  gallons  of 
water,  add  to  this  55  gallons  of  indigo 
solution,  place  the  feathers  in  the  bath, 
and  heat  by  placing  the  tub  in  boiling 
water.  As  soon  as  the  feathers  have 
acquired  the  desired  color  they  are 
dried  without  washing.  For  darker 
colors  take  more  indigo  solution. 

To  Di/e  with  Indigo  Red.  A  light 
blue  color  is  produced  by  placing  the 
feathers  in  a  solution  of  i  ounce  of 
tartaric  acid,  and  1  ounce  of  indigo 
red  in  1J  pints  of  water.  By  adding  a 
little  alum  to  the  solution  the  color  be- 
comes more  durable. 

Bleu  de  France.  Dissolve  4£  ounces 
of  tin  salt  in  2  gallons  of  water,  then 
add  3  pounds  of  ferric  nitrate  of  50° 
Beau  me,  and  stir  1  pound  of  sulphuric 
acid  into  the  fluid.  Then  prepare  a 
mordanting  bath  by  taking  1  pound  of 
the  above  fluid  and  1  gallon  of  cold 
water.  Mordant  the  feathers  in  this, 
rinse  them  thoroughly,  and  dye  by 
placing  them  in  a  solution  of  2  ounces 
of  red  phosphate  of  iron  in  water,  and 
heating  the  bath.  The  feathers  must 
be  dipped  alternately  into  the  mor- 
danting and  the  dyeing  bath.  After 
they  have  passed  through  the  last 
bath,  which  should  be  that  of  phos- 
phate of  iron,  they  are  drawn  through 
a  bath  acidulated  with  tartaric  acid. 

Crimson  and  Ruby-Red.  Dissolve 
1  pound  of  alum  in  l£  gallons  of  water, 
soak  the  feathers  in  this  solution  for  a 


few  daySj  take  them  out  and  rinse  in 
cold  water.  To  dye  the  feathers  crim- 
son, place  them  in  13  pounds  of  a  de- 
coction of  Brazil  wood  and  heat  the 
bath.  For  ruby  red,  add  to  the  above 
bath  1  pound  of  blue  archil  liquor, 
place  the  feathers  in  it  and,  when  dyed, 
rinse  them  in  cold  water.  By  adding 
4£  ounces  of  ground  turmeric  to  this 
bath  the  feathers  can  be  dyed  chestnut 
brown.  The  decoction  of  Brazil  wood 
used  is  prepared  by  boiling  1  pound  of 
ground  Brazil  wood  in  ij  gallons  of 
water,  and  straining  the  liquor. 

Rose-color.  A  fine  rose-color  is  pro* 
duced  by  dyeing  the  feathers  with 
cartharnine.  Put  the  carthamine  in 
warm  water,  place  the  feathers  in  the 
fluid  until  they  have  absorbed  the  dye- 
stuff,  and  then  take  them  out.  Now 
compound  the  bath  with  some  tartaric 
acid,  place  the  feathers  repeatedly  in 
this,  rinse  them  out  in  cold  water 
acidulated  with  tartaric  acid,  dry,  and 
curl  them. 

For  Dark  Rose-color  use  the  same 
baths  of  carthamine  and  of  tartaric 
acid,  but  each  by  itself.  It  is  best  to 
dip  the  feathers"  alternately  into  the 
acid  bath  and  the  carthamine  bath, 
but  they  must  be  finished  in  the  acid 
bath. 

Yellow.  Mordant  the  feathers  with 
alum  or  a  solution  of  acetate  of  alumina, 
and  then  rinse  them  with  water.  Now 
prepare  a  decoction  of  quercitron  bark 
freed  from  tannin,  by  precipitating  it 
with  a  solution  of  animal  glue,  or  an 
infusion  of  fustic,  and  finish  dyeing  the 
feathers  in  this. 

A  yellow  color  can  also  be  produced 
by  pouring  boiling  water  over  powdered 
turmeric,  placing  the  feathers  in  the 
warm  fluid  for  5  minutes,  when  they 
are  taken  out.  Some  tartaric  acid  is 
now  added  to  the  bath,  the  feathers  are 
again  placed  into  it  and  allowed  to  re- 
main for  5  minutes  longer,  then  rinsed 
with  cold  water,  and  dried. 

Garnet-Brown.  The  dye  is  obtained 
by  adding  to  the  bath  for  ruby  red  (see 
above)  4i  ounces  of  finely  ground  tur- 
meric, heating  the  bath  and  dyeing  the 
feathers  in  it. 

Gray  is  produced  by  dyeing  the  feath- 
ers in  a  sumac  bath  and  passing  them 
afterwards  through  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  iron. 


122 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Green.  Boil  2  pounds  of  fustic  twice, 
each  time  in  li  gallons  of  water,  and 
dissolve  2i  ounces  of  alum  and  1  ounce 
of  tartaric  acid  in  the  decoctions.  Place 
the  feathers  for  a  short  time  in  this 
solution,  then  take  them  out,  add 
solution  of  indigo,  or  indigo-red,  to  the 
bath  ;  and  dip  the  feathers  repeatedly 
in  it.  When  the  feathers  have  assumed 
a  light  green  color  rinse  them  with 
acidulated  water.  For  a  dark  green 
color  add  more  blue. 

Chestnut-brown.  The  feathers  are 
first  dyed  ruby-red  and  then  garnet- 
brown,  next  washed,  and  placed  for  5 
minutes  in  a  solution  of  4i  ounces  of 
sulphate  of  iron  in  3£  pints  of  water. 
They  are  then  rinsed,  replaced  in  the 
dye  bath,  and  heated. 

Lilac.  This  color  is  produced  with 
archil,  and  the  different  shades  by  means 
of  indigo-red  and  alum.  A  weak  solu- 
tion of  logwood  and  hydrochlorate  of 
tin  may  also  be  used. 

Orange.  Boil  1  pound  of  the  best 
annotto  with  4i  ounces  of  potash  in  If 
quarts  of  water  until  they  are  dissolved. 
Then  let  the  fluid  cool  off  to  a  hand 
heat,  when  the  feathers  are  placed  in 
the  bath  and  allowed  to  remain  in  it 
until  they  have  acquired  the  desired 
shade  of  color,  then  they  are  rinsed 
with  lukewarm  soap  water  and  passed 
through  a  weakly  acidulated  bath. 

Ruby-red.  Distribute  1  pound  of 
cudbear  in  If  gallons  of  water,  place 
the  feathers  in  the  bath  and  heat  it  to  a 
hand  heat.  When  the  feathers  have 
acquired  a  ruby-red  color  they  are 
washed  in  clean  water,  dried,  and  then 
curled. 

Violet  is  produced  by  soaking  the 
feathers  in  a  solution  of  alum,  dyeing 
in  a  simple  decoction  of  logwood,  rins- 
ing, drying,  and  finishing. 

To  Dye  Feathers  with  Aniline  Colors. 
Feathers  may  be  dyed  without  prelimi- 
nary preparation  in  a  lukewarm  bath 
of  aniline  colors.  For  lighter  shades 
of  color  they  are  placed,  after  having 
been  freed  from  oil,  in  the  sulphuring 
chamber  and  sulphured.  The  dyeing 
bath  is  prepared  by  adding  the  filtered 
solution  of  the  aniline  color  to  luke- 
warm water.  The  feathers,  after  hav- 
ing been  prepared  in  the  manner  as 
mentioned  in  the  commencement  of  this 
article,  are  worked  in  the  bath  until 


they  have  assumed  the  desired  color. 
The  further  treatment  in  rinsing  and 
drying  is  the  same  as  mentioned  under 
black. 

Rose-color.  Use  a  weak  solution  of 
fuchsine,  and  a  strong  solution  for  ma- 
genta. 

Reddish-blue.  Use  Bleu  de  Lyons, 
which  will  dissolve  in  water. 

Greenish-blue.  Use  Bleu  de  lumiZre, 
soluble  in  water. 

Genuine  Alkali-Hue  (Nicholson's 
blue)  can  also  be  used  for  dyeing  feath- 
ers by  dissolving  1  ounce  of  soda  in  the 
dyeing  bath,  and  adding  the  solution 
of  alkali-blue.  The  feathers  are  then 

E laced  in  the  bath  and  dyed  a  light 
lue ;  then  they  are  brought  into  a  bath 
of  1  ounce  of  sulphuric  acid. 

Green  is  produced    by  dyeing    the 
feathers  in  a  solution  of  aniline  green  ; 
Orange  in  a  solution  of  yellow  coral- 
line; 

Puce  in  a  solution  of  red  coralline. 
By  adding  ammonia  to  a  solution  of 
yellow  coralline  it  changes  from  oranyc 
to  red,  and  the  red  solution  is  changed 
back  into  orange  by  an  addition  of 
acetic  acid.  Therefore,  by  adding  aqua- 
ammonia  to  a  solution  of  yellow  coral- 
line, every  shade  of  color  can  be  ob- 
tained and  used  for  dyeing, 

A  bronze-lustre  can  be  given  to  the 
tips  of  the  down  by  using  the  following 
process :  Blue  or  red  patent-violet  is 
dissolved  in  alcohol  90  per  cent,  strong 
by  placing  it  in  the  water  bath.  The 
places  which  are  to  be  bronzed  are 
brushed  over  with  this  solution  after 
the  feathers  have  been  dyed  and  oiled. 
The  alcohol  evaporates  quickly  and  a 
beautiful  bronze  remains  behind.  Only 
the  violet  dissolvable  in  alcohol  should 
be  used  for  the  purpose,  as  that  soluble 
in  water  rubs  off  on  the  fingers. 


FIRE-EXTINGUISHING  AGENTS  AND 
MEANS  OP  MAKING  TISSUES,  WOOD, 
ETC.,  INCOMBUSTIBLE. 

Such  substances  as  ammonium  sul- 
phate, borax,  sodium  phosphate  and 
tungstate,  and,  last  but  not  least,  water- 
glass,  which  were  recommended  years 
ago  by  Gay-Lussac,  Fuchs,  and  others, 
form  essentially  the  staple  of  most  of 
the  means  recommended  at  the  present 


FIRE-EXTINGUISHING  AGENTS,  ETC. 


123 


time,  although  other  substances  have  Although  the  impregnated  substances 
als1)  been  used  with  more  or  less  sue-  do  not  ignite  in  an  ordinary  flame,  they 
cess.  In  the  following  we  give  the  ;  cannot  resist  the  more  intense  heat  of  a 
results  of  analyses  and  experiments  JSunsen  burner. 


made  in  the  laboratory  of  the  <l  Chemi- 
ker  Zeitung." 

Mn  n  ic/i     Fire-extinguishing 


If  tissues  are  to  be  dyed  and  impreg- 
nated it  can  be  done  in  one  bath,  pro- 
Poiv-    vided  aniline  colors  are  used.     Some 


de.r  is  composed  of:  Common  salt  43  per  |  aniline  color  is  dissolved  in  the  solution 
cent.,  alum  19.5,  Glauber's  salt  5.1,  soda  \  of  an  impregnating  agent,  and  the  tis- 
3.5,  water-glass  6.6,  water  22.3  percent.  I  sue,  previously  mordanted,  is  drawn 
A  mixture  composed  of  4V  pounds  of  through  it.  The  sizing  can  also  be 
alum,  10  pounds  of  common  salt,  1  combined  with  the  impregnating  agent, 
pound  each  of  glauber's  salt  and  soda,  j  The  starch  is  boiled  to  a  paste  in  the 
and  H  pounds  of  water-glass  was  given  ;  mixture,  and  the  goods  are  drawn 
to  the  Cost/ten  fire-brigade  and  tried  in  I  through  it  in  the  usual  manner.  Muslin 
extinguishing  a  fire  in  a  distillery.  It  j  curtains,  filtering  paper,  and  other  loose 
did  excellent  service.  The  following  '  tissues  can  be  made  fire-proof  without 
mixture  can  also  be  recommended  :  i  much  trouble,  but  it  is  more  difficult  to 
Four  parts  of  common  salt,  3  of  sodium  so  impregnate  heavier  and  closer  goods, 
bicarbonate,  and  1  each  of  Glauber's  j  as  linen  and  flannel,  so  that  absolutely 


salt,  water-glass,  and  calcium  chloride. 
This  mixture  cannot  be  used  for  im- 
pregnating tissues,  as  from  the  chloride 
of  calcium  are  formed  sulphates,  car- 
bonates, and  silicates  which  are  insol- 
uble in  water.  Such  a  mixture  might 


no  flame  is  formed. 

Vienna  Fire-extinguishing  Porvder 
consists  of  a.  solution  of  4  parts  of  green 
vitriol  and  16  of  ammonium  sulphate 
in  100  of  water.  It  is  sold  at  the  rate 
of  about  6  cents  per  pound,  while  its 


be  used  for  painting  the  backs  of  scenes  |  actual   value    is    about    li    cents.    A 


for  theatres,  etc.  If  the  calcium  chlo- 
ride is  omitted — as  for  instance  in  the 
following  mixture:  10  pounds  of  com- 
mon salt,  6  pounds  of  sodium  bicar- 
bonate, and  2  pounds  each  of  water- 
glass  and  sodium  sulphate — it  would  be 
possible  to  dissolve  it  completely  in 
water,  but  its  effect  in  making  the 
tissues  incombustible  would  not  be 
sufficient  to  recommend  it. 

Experiments  indicate  that  a  mixture 
of  water-glass  and  ammonium  sulphate 
acts  very  well.  While  water-glass  forms 
a  protecting  coat  which  excludes  the 
air,  the  high  value  of  ammonium  sul- 
phate lies  in  the  fact  that  it  becomes 
decomposed  at  a  high  heat,  developing 
vapors,  which,  like  the  water-glass, 
prevent  the  access  of  air.  But  it  is 
found  impossible  to  combine  the  two 
agents  in  a  permanent  mixture,  as  the 
water-glass,  which  is  always  alkaline, 
expels  ammonia  from  the  dry  am- 
monium sulphate. 

Sal-ammoniac  in  the  following  mixt- 
ures gives  partially  satisfactory  re- 
sults : 

I.  II 

Per  cent.  Per  cent. 

Common  salt  .  .  30  Sodium  sulphate  30 
Sodium  bicarbonate  40  Sodium  bic«fbonate2fl 


brown  precipitate  of  ferrous  hydrate  is 
formed  when  the  fluid  which  is  at  first 
clear  is  exposed  to  the  air,  and  for  this 
reason  the  mixture  is  not  adapted  for 
impregnating  fine  colored  tissues.  For 
all  other  purposes  it  does  excellent 
service. 

Fluids  for  Making  Tissues  Incom- 
bustible. I.  A  solution  of  sodium 
tungstate  of  28°  Twaddle  compounded 
with  3  per  cent,  of  sodium  phosphate. 

II.  Six  parts  of  alum,  2  of  borax,  1 
of  sodium  tungstate,  1  of  dextrine,  dis- 
solved in  soap  water. 

III.  Five  parts  of  alum,  5  of  ammo- 
nium phosphate,  100  of  water. 

IV.  Three    parts    of   borax,    2i    of 
Epsom  salt,  20  of  water. 

V.  Eight   parts  of  ammonium   sul- 
phate, 2£  of  ammonium  carbonate,  3  of 
boracic  acid,  2  of  borax,  2  of  starch, 
and  100  of  water. 

To  Make  Tissues  Incombustible.  The 
Societe  d1  Encouragement  of  Paris  has 
recently  awarded  a  prize  of  2000  francs 
to  J.  A.  Martin  of  Paris  for  the  fol- 
lowing preparations  for  making  tissues 
fire-proof.  The  conditions  under  which 
the  award  was  offered  were  as  follows: 
The  ingredients  constituting  the  prepa- 


Sal-ammoniac    .    .  30    Sal-ammoniac        5(»  I  rations  must  be  cheap  and  easily  ap- 


124 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


plied,  must  neither  injure  the  tissues 
themselves  nor  their  colors,  must  be 
neither  of  a  poisonous  nor  caustic  nature, 
must  not  change  in  a  very  moist  nor  very 
dry  atmosphere,  and  finally  the  impreg- 
nated tissues  and  wood  must  remain 
incombustible  after  they  have  been 
exposed  for  one  month  to  a  temperature 
of  100°  to  120°  F.  It  was  found  that 
Martin's  fluids  made  the  tissues  and 
the  surface  of  wood  incombustible,  that 
they  do  not  attack  the  tissues  and  their 
colors,  and  that  they  remained  incom- 
bustible after  having  been  exposed  for 
several  months  in  a  drying  chamber  to 
a  temperature  of  97°  F.  The  experi- 
ments were  made  by  the  society  and  at 
the  same  time  in  the  different  Paris 
theatres. 

I.  For  all  Light  Tissues.      Ammo- 
nium sulphate  8  parts,  pure  ammonium 
carbonate  2£  parts,  boracic  acid  3  parts, 
starch  2  parts,  water  100  parts ;  f  part 
of  dextrine  (or  the  same  quantity  of  gel- 
atine may  be  substituted  for  the  2  parts 
of  starch). 

The  fluid  is  heated  to  85°  F.  and  the 
tissues  immersed  in  it  until  they  are 
thoroughly  permeated.  They  are  then 
slightly  wrung  and  dried  sufficiently 
for  ironing.  The  quantity  of  the  starch 
or  dextrine  or  gelatine  may  be  changed 
according  as  the  tissues  are  to  be  more 
or  less  stiff. 

II.  For    Painted    Decorations   and 
Wood.    Sal-ammoniac  15  parts,  boracic 
acid  5  parts,  glue  50  parts,  gelatine  1J 
parts,  water   100  parts,  and  sufficient 
powdered    talc  to  give  the  mass  the 
necessary  consistency.     For  use  it  is 
heated  to  120°  or  140°  F.  and  applied 
with  a  brush.    For  decorations  already 
painted  it  suffices  to  apply  it  to   the 
back  and  wooden  frames. 

III.  For  Coarse.  Linen,  Ropes,  Straw, 
>and    Wood.      Sal-ammoniac  15   parts, 
boracic    acid  6  parts,  borax  3  parts, 
water  100  parts.     The  fluid  is  heated  to 
220°  F.  and  the  articles  are  submerged 
in  it  for  15  to  20  minutes,  wrung  out 
slightly,  and  dried. 

Cartridges  for  Extinguishing  Fire. 
Make  the  shells  of  parchment  paper  or 
sheet  lead,  and  fill  them  with  4  parts  of 
a  salt  obtained  by  mixing  343  parts  of 
sulphate  of  alumina  and  142  parts  of 
sodium  sulphate  with  432  of  water ;  and 
1  part  of  sodium  sulphide,  separated 


from  the  4  parts  of  the  salt  by  a  disk  of 
parchment  paper.      The    cartridge    is 
i  broken    and    its    entire    contents    are 
j  poured  into  the  water  to  be  used  for  ex- 
tinguishing the  fire. 

To  Make  Paper  Incombustible.     The 

paper,  as  it  comes  from  the  machine 

!  and  before  it  is  brought  upon  the  dry- 

j  ing  rollers,  is  drawn  through  a  solution 

I  of  8  parts  of  ammonium  sulphate,  3  of 

1  boracic  acid,  2  of  borax,  and  100  of 

water.     The  fluid  should  be  heated  to 

120°  F. 

To  Make  Theatre  Scenes,  Wood,  etc., 
Incombustible.  A  mixture  recently  re- 
commended for  this  purpose  consists  of 
the  following  ingredients :  Boracic  acid 
5  parts,, sal-ammoniac  15  parts,  potash- 
feldspar  5  parts,  gelatine  1.5  parts, 
paste  50  parts,  water  100  parts.  It  is 
applied  with  a  brush.  Other  mixtures 
of  the  same  ingredients,  with  a  slight 
change  in  their  proportions,  serve  for 
impregnating  sail-cloth,  straw,  ropes, 
and  wood. 

Bucher's  Fire-extinguishing  Powder, 
the  value  of  which  has  been  shown  at 
several  fires,  consists  of  30  parts  of  pow- 
dered sulphur,  60  of  purified  saltpetre, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  coke  and  bole. 
Hand-grenades.  These  consist  of 
glass  vessels  of  various  shapes — usually 
spherical — containing  various  fire-ex- 
tinguishing liquids.  They  are  hermet- 
ically sealed  to  prevent  the  evaporation 
of  their  contents.  They  are  designed, 
as  their  name  indicates,  to  be  thrown 
into  the  fire,  and  by  the  breaking  of  the 
glass  to  liberate  the  fire-extinguishing 
solution  on  the  burning  object.  (W.) 


FlREWOKKS. 

Bengal  Lights.  Besides  the  combus- 
tible and  coloring  components,  the  fire- 
works known  under  this  name  contain 
substances  which,  by  yielding  oxygen, 
aid  combustion.  The  principal  ingre- 
dients used  for  this  purpose  are  char- 
coal, lampblack,  sulphur,  stearine,  lin- 
seed oil,  colophony,  sugar,  etc.  For 
coloring  the  lights  the  following  sub- 
stances are  made  use  of:  Sulphide  of 
antimony,  arsenical  sulphides,  nitrate 
of  barium,  nitrate  of  strontium,  sul- 
phate of  potassium,  carbonate  of  sodium, 
cupric  oxide,  boracic  acid,  chlorate  of 


FIREWORKS. 


125 


potassium,  saltpetre,  etc.  In  preparing 
colored  lights  the  greatest  attention 
should  be  paid  to  the  absolute  purity 
of  the  ingredients  used,  and  that  they 
are  powdered  as  finely  as  possible  and 
very  intimately  mixed  with  a  spatula 
after  pulverization.  Every  mixture 
containing  chlorate  of  potassium  must 
be  treated  and  handled  with  the  utmost 
care  and  caution,  as  such  mixtures  are 
liable  to  spontaneous  ignition  and  even 
to  explosion.  For  preparing  a  very 
fine  powder  of  it,  it  is  best  to  allow  a 
supersaturated  hot  solution  of  chlorate 
of  potassium  to  become  cold,  with  con- 
stant stirring,  when  the  salt  will  be 
separated  in  the  form  of  a  very  fine 
crystallized  flour,  which  should  be 
dried  without  exposing  it  to  direct  heat. 
To  secure  uniformity  the  ready  mixt- 
ures should  be  sifted.  It  is  advisable 
to  use  dry  materials  only  in  manufact- 
uring them,  not  to  prepare  large  quan- 
tities at  one  time,  and  to  store  the 
mixtures  in  a  dry  place  in  hermetically 
closed  vessels. 

Colored  lights  are  best  used  by  press- 
ing the  mixture  into  cases  (cartridges) 
of  paper  twice  as  long  as  wide  and  ig- 
niting it  by  means  of  a  quick  match. 

Quick  Matches  are  made  of  4  parts  of 
saltpetre,  2  of  gunpowder,  2  of  charcoal, 
and  1  of  sulphur.  Quick  matches  made 
of  this  composition  never  miss  fire  and 
are  not  extinguished  by  rain  or  wind. 

White  Fire.  This  excellent  light, 
on  account  of  its  brilliant  whiteness,  is 
especially  adapted  for  night  signalling 
and  also  for  festive  occasions.  It  is 
produced  by  mixing  24  parts  of  salt- 
petre, 7  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  2  of 
realgar. 

In  mixing  the  saltpetre  with  the  flow- 
ers of  sulphur  sulphurous  vapors  are 
developed  which  form  moist  lumps  in 
the  mass.  To  secure  a  good  ignition 
and  quick  combustion  of  the  mass  it  is 
necessary  to  dry  it  thoroughly  in  an  iron 
pan  with  gentle  heat,  as,  if  this  precau- 
tion is  neglected,  it  frequently  misses 
fire  or  ignites  and  then  goes  out.  The_ 
mixture  is  cheaper  than  gunpowder,  as 
less  labor  is  required  in  preparing  it 
and  very  little  danger  incurred. 

Mohr'8  White  Fire,  which  is  very 
effective  and  scarcely  ever  misses  fire, 
is  composed  of  24  parts  of  saltpetre,  7 
of  sulphur,  and  1  of  fine  charcoal.  The 


charcoal  increases  the  inflammability 
of  the  mixture  and  shortens  the  length 
of  time  during  which  the  light  burns, 
but  adds  to  its  intensity.  It  is  not  per- 
missible to  use  a  larger  amount  of  char- 
coal than  that  given,  as  the  composition 
would  then  approach  that  of  gunpowder. 
White  Fire  for  Theatres,  etc.  I. 
Forty-eight  parts  of  saltpetre,  13.25  of 
sulphur,  7.25  of  sulphide  of  antimony. 

II.  Twelve  parts  of  saltpetre,  4  of 
sulphur,  1  of  sulphide  of  sodium. 

III.  Sixteen  parts  of  saltpetre,  12  of 
mealed  powder,  12  of  cast-iron  filings, 
8  of  powdered  charcoal. 

IV.  One  part  of  charcoal,  3  of  sul- 
phur, 7  of  saltpetre,  1  of  chlorate  of 
potassium,  4  of  sulphide  of  antimony. 

V.  Thirty-two  parts  of  saltpetre,  12 
of  sulphur,  8  of  sulphide  of  sodium,  1 
of  gunpowder. 

VI.  One  hundred   to   133  parts  of 
pulverized  antimony,  48  to  206  of  pul- 
verized sulphur,  375  to  500  of  saltpetre. 

VII.  Sixty-four  parts  of  pulverized 
saltpetre,  21  of  pulverized  sulphur,  15 
of  gunpowder. 

VIII.  One  hundred  parts  of  potas- 
sium carbonate,  10  of  sulphide  of  anti- 
mony, 15  of  boiled  linseed  oil. 

IX.  Eleven  parts  of  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium, 4  of  nitrate  of  potassium,  1  of 
stearine,  1  of  carbonate  of  barium,  5  of 
milk  sugar. 

X.  Forty-five  parts  of  sulphide  of 
antimony,  15  of  washed  flowers  of  sul- 
phur, 96  of  saltpetre,  15  of  stearine. 

The  stearine  is  either  grated  or  cut  in 
shavings  and  then  rubbed  with  some 
pulverized  saltpetre  into  as  fine  a  pow- 
der as  possible.  The  other  powdered 
ingredients  are  then  mixed  with  it  and 
the  mixture  passed  through  a  fine 
sieve. 

XI.  Eighteen  parts  of  saltpetre,  3  of 
sulphide  of  antimony,  10  of  sulphur,  4 
of  burned  lime  (unslaked). 

Greenish-white  Fire.  I.  Two  parts 
of  sulphur,  1  of  oxide  of  zinc,  2  of  sul- 
phide of  antimony,  1  of  powdered  char- 
coal. 

II.  Fifty  parts  of  saltpetre,  25  of  sul- 
phur, 5  of  sulphide  of  antimony,  and 
0.5  of  alum. 

Bluish-ivhite  Fire.  Widen  has  made 
experiments  in  regard  to  the  availabil- 
ity of  sulphide  of  cadmium  for  pyro- 
technic purposes.  In  the  following 


126 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


mixture  the  sulphide  of  cadmium  burns 
with  a  brilliant  white  flame  surrounded 
with  «,  magnificent  blue  border :  Mix 
20  parts  of  saltpetre,  4  of  sulphide  of 
cadmium,  5  of  sulphur,  and  1  of  pulver- 
ized charcoal.  This  mixture  may  be 
used  for  fire-balls. 

Red  Fiic.  I.  Forty  parts  of  nitrate 
of  strontium,  15  of  sulphur,  5  of  chlo- 
rate of  potassium,  and  2  of  charcoal. 

II.  Fifty  parts  of  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium, 50  of  nitrate  of  strontium,  5  of 
charcoal,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
linseed  oil  to  knead  the  mass  together. 

Bed  Fire  according  to  Braunschweig- 
er.  Nine  parts  of  nitrate  of  strontium, 
3  of  shellac,  1.5  of  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium. The  shellac  need  only  be  coarsely 
powdered.  The  above  3  mixtures  for 
red  fire  possess  the  advantage  of  not 
emitting  injurious  vapors,  and  can 
therefore  be  used  in  rooms,  etc. 

Holtz's  Red  Fire,  which  was  so  much 
used  in  Berlin  during  the  festivities  in 
celebration  of  the  victories  in  the 
French  war,  contains  no  chlorate  of 

rtassium,  but  is  simply  composed  of 
part  of  shellac  and  4  of  nitrate  of 
strontium.  The  absence  of  chlorate  of 
potassium  makes  it  possible  to  store 
such  mixtures  without  any  danger, 
though  the  light  produced  is  less  in- 
tense and  brilliant  in  color.  The  mixt- 
ure is  not  very  inflammable,  burns 
better  if  slightly  moistened,  develops 
but  little  smoke,  and,  as  it  burns  very 
slowly,  is  without  doubt  the  cheapest 
material  for  red  lights.  A  very  small 
addition  of  chlorate  of  potassium  im- 
proves the  color  of  the  flame  very  much. 
Receipts  for  other  Red-fire  Mixtures. 
I.  Fifty-six  parts  of  nitrate  of  strontium, 
24  of  sulphur,  20  of  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium. 

II.  Twenty-three  parts  of  carbonate 
of  strontium,  16  of  sulphur,  61  of  chlo- 
rate of  potassium. 

III.  Mix  40  parts  of  pulverized  ni- 
trate of  strontium,  6  of  pulverized  chlo- 
rate of  potassium,  13  of  washed  flowers 
of  sulphur,  and  2  of  pulverized  char- 
coal. 

Instead  of  the  rather  expensive  pre- 
cipitated chalk,  salts  of  strontia,  car- 
bonate of  calcium,  and  the  native 
sulphate  of  strontium  (coelestine),  may 
be  used  for  preparing  red  fire  according 
to  the  following  receipts : 


I.  Mix  carefully  3  parts  of  powdered 
coelestine,  2  of  sulphur,  and  5  of  chlo- 
rate of  potassium. 

II.  Three  parts  of  precipitated  chalk, 

2  of  sulphur,  6  to  8  of  chlorate  of  po- 
tassium. 

III.  Twelve  hundred  and  fifty  parts 
of  sulphate  of  strontium,  375  of  purified 
sulphur,  166  of  chlorate  of  potassium, 
and  133  of  antimony. 

IV.  Seven  hundred  and  fifty  parts  of 
carbonate  of  strontium,  500  of  purified 
sulphur,  1750  of  chlorate  of  potassium. 

V.  Rub  fine  and  mix  195  parts  of 
nitrate  of  strontium,  45  of  chlorate  of 
potassium,  45  of  washed  flowers  of  sul- 
phur, 7.5  of  powdered  charcoal,  and 
22.5  of  stearine. 

VI.  Eleven  parts  of  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium, 4  of  nitrate  of  potassium,  5  of 
milk  sugar,  1  of  earth-moss  seed,  1  of 
oxalate  of  strontium. 

Purple  Fire.  Powder  and  mix  61 
parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  16  of 
sulphur,  23  of  chalk. 

Rose-red  Light.  I.  Rub  fine  and  mix 
61  parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  16  of 
sulphur,  23  of  chloride  of  potassium. 

II.  Pulverize  and  mix  20  parts  of 
sulphur,  32  of  saltpetre,  27  of  chlorate 
of  potassium,  20  of  chalk,  1  of  charcoal. 

Red-orange  Fire.  Pulverize  and  mix 
52  parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  14  of 
sulphur,  34  of  chalk. 

Dark-violet  Fire.  Rub  fine  and  mix 
60  parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  16  of 
sulphur,  12  of  carbonate  of  potassium, 
and  12  of  alum. 

Pale-violet  Fire.  Rub  fine  and  mix 
54  parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  14  of 
sulphur,  16  of  carbonate  of  potassium, 
and  16  of  alum. 

Blue  Fire.  I.  Eighteen  parts  of 
chlorate  of  potassium,  24  of  saltpetre, 

14  of  sulphur,  6  of  cupric  oxide. 

II.  Four  parts  of  mealed  gunpowder, 

3  of  sulphur,  3  of  powdered  zinc,  2  of 
saltpetre. 

III.  The  following  mixture  gives  a 
loudly     detonating     compound :     Two 
parts  of  saltpetre,  1  of  sulphur,  2  of  car- 
bonate of  potassium,  6  of  common  salt. 

IV.  Mix  27  parts  of  pulverized  salt- 
petre, 28  of  triturated  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium, 15  of  pulverized  sulphur,  15  of 
pulverized  sulphate  of  potassium,  and 

15  of  powdered  cupro-aiamoiihim  sul- 
phate. 


FIREWORKS. 


127 


The  dark -blue  color  will  gain  inten- 
sity by  adding  potassium  sulphate  to 
the  mixture. 

V.  Seventeen  hundred  and  fifty  parts 
of  chlorate  of  potassium,  500  of  siilphur, 
575  of  carbonate  of  copper,  and  375  of 
burned  alum. 

VI.  Twenty-one  parts  of  chlorate  of 
potassium,   23  of   copper  precipitated 
with  chlorate  of  potassium,  12  of  sul- 
phate of  copper,   12  of  calomel,  4  of 
milk  sugar,  and  3  of  stearine. 

Dark-blue  Fire.  Mix  60  parts  of 
chlorate  of  potassium,  16  of -sulphur,  12 
of  carbonate  of  copper,  and  12  of  alum. 

Pale-blue  Fire.  I.  Mix  61  parts  of 
powdered  chlorate  of  potassium,  16  of 
pulverized  sulphur,  and  25  of  strongly 
heated  and  pulverized  alum. 

II.  Mix  61  parts  of  powdered  salt- 
petre, 17i  of  pulverized  sulphur,  20  of 
powdered  anhydrous  soda,  and  1J  of 
pulverized  charcoal. 

Klne  Fire  with  a  Bluish-green  Flame. 
Rub  fine  and  mix  12  parts  of  nitrate  of 
barium,  5  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  and 
4  of  sulphur. 

Green  Fire.  I.  Rub  fine  and  mix 
433  parts  of  purified  sulphur,  2250  of 
nitrate  of  barium,  166  of  chlorate  of 
potassium,  66  of  arsenic,  and  100  of 
charcoal. 

II.  Fifty  parts  of  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium, 50  of  nitrate  of  barium,  5  of  char- 
coal, and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  linseed 
oil  to  knead  the  mass. 

Green  Fire  according  to  Braitn- 
schweiger.  Three  parts  of  shellac,  9  of 
nitrate  of  barium,  H  of  chlorate  of 
potassium. 

Other  Receipts  for  Green  Fire.  I. 
Sixteen  parts  of  nitrate  of  barium,  4  of 
sulphur,  and  16  of  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium. 

II.  Forty-five    parts    of  nitrate  of 
barium,  10  of  sulphur,  20  of  chlorate  of 
potassium,  2  of  calomel,  1  of  lampblack. 

III.  Mix  very  carefully  12  parts  of 
nitrate  of  barium  dry  as  dust,  4  of  sul- 
phur, and  6  of  chlorate  of  potassium. 

IV.  Powder  and  mix  6  parts  of  nitrate 
of  barium,  1  of  sulphur,  2  of  chlorate 
of  potassium,  and  i  of  charcoal. 

Pale-green  Fire.  I.  Rub  fine  and 
mix  60  parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium, 
16  of  sulphur,  and  24  of  carbonate  of 
barium. 

II.  Sixty  parts  of  nitrate  of  barium, 


14  of  washed  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  40 
of  chlorate  of  potassium. 

III.  Thirty -eight  parts  of  nitrate  of 
barium,  10  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  and; 
8  of  charcoal. 

IV.  Six  parts  of  nitrate  of  barium,  1 
of  sulphur,  2  of  chlorate  of  potassium, 
and  i  of  charcoal. 

Dark-green  Fire.  One  hundred  and 
twenty  parts  of  nitrate  of  potassium,  60 
of  washed  flowers  of  sulphur,  45  of 
chlorate  of  potassium,  37-i  of  anhydrous 
carbonate  of  sodium,  2  of  pulverized 
charcoal,  and  22.5  of  stearine. 

Yellow  Fire.  I.  Mix  carefully  48 
parts  of  sodium  nitrate,  16  of  sulphur, 
4  of  sulphide  of  antimony,  and  1  of 
charcoal. 

II.  Rub  as  fine  as  possible  and  mix 
20  parts  of  sodium  nitrate,  3  of  sulphur, 
and  1  of  sodium  sulphide. 

III.  Two  thousand  parts  of  chlorate 
of  potassium,  500  of  purified  sulphur, 
and  750  of  sodium  carbonate. 

IV.  Fifteen   hundred  and  sixty-six 
parts  of  saltpetre,  625  of  sodium*  car- 
bonate, and  400  of  gunpowder. 

V.  Six  parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium, 
6  of  potassium  nitrate,  5  of  sodium  ox- 
alate,  and  3  of  shellac. 

VI.  Sixty-one  parts  of  chlorate  of 
potassium,"  16  of  sulphur,  and  23  of 
anhydrous  soda. 

VII.  One  hundred  and  twenty  parts 
of  potassium  nitrate,  30  of  flowers  of 
sulphur,  45  of  chlorate  of  potassium, 
37i  of  anhydrous  sodium  carbonate,  2 
of  charcoal  "powder,  22-V  of  stearine. 

VIII.  Sixty-one  parts  of  saltpetre, 
17£  of  sulphur,  20  of  soda,  and  U  of 
charcoal. 


OTHER  COLORED  FIREWORKS. 

White  Stars.  Mix  32  parts  of  pul- 
verized saltpetre,  12  of  pulverized  sul- 
phur, 8  of  powdered  sodium  sulphide, 
and  1  of  gunpowder. 

Red  Stars.  Rub  fine  and  mix  40 
parts  of  nitrate  of  strontium,  10  of 
chlorate  of  potassium,  13  of  sulphur,  2 
of  charcoal,  5  of  sodium  sulphide. 

Green  Stars.  Thirty  parts  of  chlo- 
rate of  barium,  10  of  flowers  of  sulphur, 
and  1  of  mastic. 

Blue  Stars.  Rub  fine  and  mix  20 
parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  11  of 


128 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


sulphur,  14  of  cupric  oxide,  and  1  of 
mastic. 

B 'I  wish-green  Stars.  I.  Rub  fine  and 
mix  24  parts  of  nitrate  of  barium,  56  of 
chlorate  of  potassium,  30  of  sulphur, 
and  1  of  mastic. 

II.  Twenty  parts  of  nitrate  of  barium, 
18  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  10  of  sul- 
phur, 1  of  mastic,  and  3  of  sodium  sul- 
phide. 

Yellowish-green  Stars.  I.  Rub  fine 
and  mix  60  parts  of  chloride  of  barium, 
30  of  nitrate  of  barium,  20  of  sulphur, 
and  1  of  mastic. 

1 1.  Twenty  parts  of  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium, 5  of.  sulphur,  1  of  mastic,  and  1 
of  carbonate  of  barium. 

Yellow  tit  firs.  Rub  fine  and  mix  16 
parts  of  sodium  nitrate,  5  of  sulphur,  2 
of  sodium  sulphide,  and  1  of  charcoal. 

White  Candles.  Powder  and  mix  4 
parts  of  saltpetre,  1  of  sulphur,  and  1 
of  sodium  sulphide. 

R«l  Candles.  Rub  fine  and  mix  26 
parts  of  nitrate  of  strontium,  15  of  chlo- 
rate of  potassium,  12  of  flowers  of  sul- 
phur, 2  of  charcoal,  2  of  sodium  sul- 
phide, and  1  of  mastic. 

-  Green  Candles.  Mix  20  parts  of 
chlorate  of  barium,  30  of  nitrate  of 
barium,  and  10  of  sulphur. 

Blue  Candles.  Rub  fine  and  mix  18 
parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium,  6  of  salt- 
petre, 10  of  sulphur,  and  6  of  cupric 
oxide. 

Bluish-green  Candles.  Rub  fine  and 
mix  20  parts  of  chloride  of  barium,  30 
to  42  of  nitrate  of  barium,  40  of  chlorate 
of  potassium,  10  to  22  of  sulphur  and 
of  sodium  sulphide. 

Yellow  Candles.  Rub  fine  and  mix 
80  parts  of  sodium  nitrate,  7  of  sulphur, 
3  of  sodium  sulphide,  and  2  of  mastic. 

Japanese  Matches.  One  part  of  pow- 
dered charcoal,  la  of  sulphur,  and  3i 
of  saltpetre. 

According  to  another  receipt  they 
consist  of  5  parts  of  lampblack,  11  of 
sulphur,  and  26  to  30  parts  of  gunpow- 
der. The  mixture  is  made  into  a  paste 
with  alcohol,  formed  into  small  dice, 
and  dried.  When  dry  one  of  the  little 
squares  is  fixed  into  the  cleft  of  a  laven- 
der stalk,  lighted  on  a  candle,  and  held 
stem  downward.  After  the  first  blazing 
oft',  a  ball  of  molten  lava  will  form  from 
which  the  curious  and  very  beautiful 
eprruscations  will  soon  appear. 


Prof.  Bottger  says  about  Japanese 
matches:  The  mixture  consists  either 
of  3  parts  by  weight  of  lampblack,  8  of 
flowers  of  sulphur,  and  15  of  saltpetre 
(dry  as  dust) ;  or  2  parts  by  weight  of 
finely  sifted  lime-wood  charcoal,  4  of 
flowers  of  sulphur,  and  7  of  saltpetre 
(dry  as  dust).  The  mode  of  preparing 
the  matches  is  as  follows :  Cut  the  finest 
commercial  tissue  paper  into  strips 
about  6i  inches  long,  1  inch  wide  on 
one  end,  and  running  into  a  point  at 
the  other.  By  rolling  these  small  strips 
of  paper  tightly  together,  commencing 
at  the  pointed  end,  and  filling  the  lower 
part  with  from  30  to  45  grains  of  one  of 
the  above  mixtures,  a  close  imitation  of 
the  genuine  Japanese  matches  will  be 
the  result. 

Fireworks  far  Use  in  Rooms,  accord- 
ing to  Perron.  Mix  12  parts  of  salt- 
petre, 15  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  30 
of  gunpowder.  Then  dissolve  2  parts 
of  camphor  in  8  of  spirit  of  wine,  and 
4  of  gum  Arabic  in  water.  Knead  the 
whole  into  a  dough,  and  form  small 
cornered  pieces  from  it  which  are  dried. 
When  ignited  they  give  a  beautiful 
light. 

Pharaoh's  Serpents.  This  curious 
chemical  toy  is  prepared  as  follows: 
Dissolve  mercury,  with  the  aid  of  heat, 
in  dilute  nitric  acid,  being  careful  that 
there  shall  always  be  an  excess  of  mer- 
cury present.  When  the  action  of  the 
acid  has  ceased,  decant  the  solution, 
and  pour  into  it  a  solution  of  sulpho- 
cyanide  of  potassium  or  ammonium, 
which  may  be  procured  at  any  drug- 
gist's. Use  about  equal  quantities  of 
the  two  solutions.  A  precipitate  of 
sulpho-cyanide  of  mercury  falls  out, 
which  should  be  filtered  off,  washed, 
and  dried.  Then  take  for  every  pound 
of  this  substance  1  ounce  of  gum  traga- 
canth,  which  should  be  soaked  in  water. 
When  the  gum  is  completely  softened 
it  is  transferred  to  a  mortar,  and  the 
dried  precipitate  is  gradually  rubbed 
up  with  it  into  a  homogeneous  paste, 
Avith  the  addition  of  a  little  water. 
This  mass  is  filled  into  moulds  of  coni- 
cal or  other  shape,  made  of  silvered 
paper,  and  dried.  When  these  are 
ignited  by  the  application  of  a  match 
at  the  conical  end  they  form  an  enor- 
mous volume  of  ash,  which  proceeds  in 
great  coils  from  the  body  of  the  mass, 


FOOD    AND   FOOD   PREPARATIONS. 


129 


and  which  by  its  serpentine  movements, 
as  it  is  formed,  has  suggested  the  name. 


arrowroot  flour,  6  of  wheat  flour,  2 
of  Trinidad  chocolate,  2  of  Granada 
chocolate,  and  i  of  vanilla. 

Stren-gt/iening  food  A'noiru  as  "  Paia- 

Serpenti.      The    above-named   experi-    moud."'    Mix  2  parts  ot  chocolate,  8  of 
incut,  though  curious  and  interesting,  j  rice  flour,   8  of  arrowroot  flour,  ^  of 


(W.1 

Harmless  Substitute 


for   Pharaoh's 


is  not  altogether  free  from  danger  be- 
cause poisonous  mercurial  fumes  are 
evolved  during  the  combustion  of  the 
mass.  On  this  account  several  substi- 
tutes have  been  suggested.  One  of  these, 


finely  powdered  red  samlers  wood,  and 
add  some  Indian  arrowroot. 

Sottp  Tablets.  Mince  0  pounds  of 
perfectly  lean  beef,  make  it  into  a  paste 
with  water,  then  press  it  out  and  evapor- 


which  is  almost  as  good  as  the  original,  I  ate  the  resulting  fluid  to  i  pint.     Now 
and  is  not  poisonous,  is  prepared  in  the    put  in  a  pot  (31  pounds  of  calves'  feet, 

and  a  like  quantity,  each,  of  roasted 
onions,  carrots,  celery,  and  water,  with 
the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of 
clove?.  Boil  the  whole  thoroughly, 
strain  the  fluid,  and  evaporate  it  to  two- 
thirds  of  the  quantity.  Now  add  tha 


following  manner: 
Take 

of  potaesinm      ....    2  parts. 


Siltpetro     ..........     I 

White  siiifur  .........     3  parts. 

Pulverize  each  of  the  ingredients  sepa- 
rately, and  then  mix  them  thoroughly. 
Make  small  paper  cones  of  the  desired 
size,  and  press  the  mixture  into  them. 
When  qnite  dry  they  are  ready  for  use. 
They  should  be  kept  away  from  mois- 
ture and  light.  (W.) 

FOOD  AND  FOOD  PREPARATIONS. 

So  up  Ext  ra  ct.    Vegetabl  es  a  re  ge  u  1  1  y 


strained  fluid  to  the  meat  liquor,  mix 
all  with  a  solution  of  2  ounces  of  gum 
arabic,  and  evaporate  the  whole  to  a 
thick  mass,  which  is  formed  into  small 
tablets. 

Stilton  Cheese  as  Prepared  in  Eng- 
land. A  tiu  cylinder  open  at  both 
ends  is  required,  6  inches  long  and  12 
inches  in  diameter,  with  j»erforated 
sides  to  allow  the  escape  of  the  whey. 
Lamb's  maw  is  used  as  a  rennet,  and  a 


boiled  in  a  steam  apparatus  for  6  hours,    lemon  filled  with  cloves  is  placed  in 
and  then  pressed.      Ill  the   resulting  J  the  curd.     Nine  gallons  of  fresh  milk 


liquor  beef  and  bones  are  boiled  for  (> 
hours  longer.  The  fluid  is  then  pressed 
out,  and,  after  it  has  become  cold,  the 
fat  is  skimmed  off,  a  part  of  which  is 
-  J  -JJ~!  again,  with  30  per 


afterward   added 
cent,  of  common 


salt.     The  whole  is 


then  evaporated  to  the  consistency  of 
syrup. 

Meat  Flour.    Meat  free  from  fat  is 
covered  with   2  to  3  per  cent,  of  salt, 


and  the  cream  from  2  to  3  gallons  of 
milk  are  used  for  1  cheese.  The  milk 
is  heated  to  its  natural  teni]>erature  be- 
fore adding  the  rennet.  When  the  mass 
is  curdled,  it  is  strained  through  a  cloth, 
broken  short  and  allowed  to  remain 
quiet,  wrapped  in  the  cloth,  until  it  is 
fit  to  be  cut.  The  tin  cylinder  is  then 
placed  upon  a  board  and  filled  with 
alternate  layers  of  curd  aud  salt  aud 
covered  with  another  board. 


dried  first  at  120°  to  140°  F.,  then  com- 
pletely at  212°  F.,  and  ground.  The    cylinder   with    the    cheese    is 

Pi-eased  Feed  for  Hoi-sex.  One  him-  j  turned  over  every  2  or  3  hours  for  the 
dred  and  fifty  parts  of  cut  hay,  400  of  first  day,  and  2  or  3  times  a  day  for 
crushed  oats  or  corn,  50  of  crushed  the  succeeding  3  or  4  days,  after  which 
horse  beans  or  pease,  and  20  of  wheat  the  cheese  is  taken  out,  wrapped  in 
bran  or  flour,  are  mixed  with  1  of  rock-  !  a  cloth  wet  with  boiling  water,  and 
salt.  The  mixture  is  then  moistened  pressed  until  it  is  dry.  It  is  turned 
with  water,  wrapped  in  press-cloths,  twice  a  day,  and  protected  from  flies 
and  subjected  to  a  high  pressure  in  a  and  insects.  ^Considerable  time  is  re- 
heated hydraulic  press  for  i  hour,  quired  to  make  it  fit  for  the  table. 
The  mixture  is  converted  into  a  solid  Jloney  from  Beets  and  Carrots.  This 
cake  of  gluten  which  is  dried  at  85°  F.,  is  generally  prepa  red  from  2  parts -of 
and  divided  into  suitable  pieces.  i  sugar  beets  and  1  of  carrots.  The 

^li-fiK/tlicniiKj  Fo.nl  Known  as  "  Die-  '  roots  are  washed    clean    and   scraped. 
tamta."     Mix  14  parts  of  sugar,  8  of  i  They   are  then    placed    about  a  foot 


130 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT* BOOK. 


deep  in  a  boiler,  covered  with  water, 
and  boiled  until  soft,  being  frequently 
stirred  to  prevent  scorching.  The 
boiled  mass  is  pressed  out,  and  the 
juice  boiled  down  to  the  consistency 
of  a  syrup,  and  filled  in  well-closed 
earthenware  vessels.  Its  flavor  im- 
proves with  age. 

To  Prepare  Potato  Flour  for  Soups, 
etc.  Cleanse  good  potatoes,  boil,  peel, 
and  cut  them  in  slices.  Now  add  to 
100  parts  of  potatoes  4  of  salt;  then 
dry  thoroughly,  and  grind  them  to 
flour,  which  should  be  kept  in  well- 
closed  tin  boxes. 

Meat  Biscuit.  Fresh  meat  is  thor- 
oughly boiled,  and  the  liquor  concen- 
trated by  evaporation  until  it  has  ac- 
quired the  consistency  of  thick  syrup. 
It  is  then  mixed  with  the  best  wheat 
flour  and  and  made  into  a  dough.  This 
is  rolled  ont,  cut  into  biscuits,  and 
baked  in  an  oven  at  a  moderate  heat. 
Perfectly  dry  biscuits,  easily  broken 
and  resembling  the  finest  ship  biscuit, 
are  obtained  by  this  process.  They 
contain  no  fat,  and  can  be  used  for  the  ! 
preparation  of  soups  and  puddings. 
They  contain  5  times  as  much  nutri- 
ment as  an  equal  volume  of  good 
fresh  meat,  and  will  keep  for  a  Jong 
time. 

Apparatus  and  Method  for  Prepar- 
ing a  Substitute  for  Coffee.  A  substi- 
tute for  coffee  is  prepared  in  England, 
which  has  been  patented  by  Bolanachi, 
of  West  Dulwich.  The  fruit  of  the 
carob  tree  ( Ceratonia  sill  qua)  is  roasted 
and  ground,  and  mixed  \vith  roasted 
and  ground  vetches  and  coffee.  Some 
chicory,  or  gentian  root,  and  a  lit- 
tle carbonate  of  potassium  are  also 
added. 

The  roasting  apparatus  (Fig.  12)  con- 
sists of  the  cylindrical  drum  A,  the  in- 
terior of  which  is  provided  with  spiral 
flues  a  a.  The  outer  cylinder  of  the 
drum  forms  with  the  inner  narrower  cyl- 
inder E,  and  the  spiral  flues,  a  series  of 
divisions  which  communicate  with  the 
interior  of  the  cylinder  E  through 
openings  in  the  wall  of  E.  Upon  the 
face  of  E  is  placed  the  ventilating  pipe 
c.  This,  with  the  perforated  cylin- 
drical wall  of  E,  forms  a  chamber  for 
charging  the  apparatus  through  the 
funnel  b'.  D  is  a  double  jacket  en- 


closing A ;  e  e  are  hot  water  pipes  ar- 
ranged  around  A  and  heated  from  /. 
c'  c'  are  openings  in  the  back  of  the 
cylindrical  wall  of  A,  through  which 
the  roasted  mass,  pressed  backward  by 
the  turning  of  the  spiral  flues  a  a,  falls 
down  upon  d.  The  roasting  gases 
escape  through  the  ventilating  pipe  e, 
reaching  this  from  the  divisions  a'  a' 
through  openings  in  the  inner  cylinder 
E.  The  substances  to  be  roasted  are 
introduced  through  b'  into  a'  a',  where 
they  remain  until  pushed  forward  by 
the  turning  of  the  spiral  flues,  and 
finally  fall  through  c'  c'  upon  d. 


Fig.  12. 

Bread  for  Horse  Feed.  Crushed 
wheat,  rye,  oats,  barley,  and  corn,  are 
mixed  with  cut  straw  and  a  little  yeast, 
the  mixture  is  formed  into  loaves  of 
about  5  pounds  each,  and  baked. 

Pudding  Powders  (  Vanilla).  Five 
hundred  parts  of  corn  starch,  25  of 
vanilline,  and  50  of  egg  conserve. 

Almond  Padding.  Five  hundred 
parts  of  corn  staich,  50  of  almond 
flour  (with  some  bitter  almonds),  50  of 
egg  conserve,  and  12  of  vanilline. 

Chocolate  Pudding.  Five  hundred 
parts  of  corn  starch,  250  of  powdered 
cocoa  free  from  oil,  35  of  vanilline, 
and  150  of  egg  con  serve. 

Manufacture  of  Artificial  Butter. 
Fresh  beef  suet  is  one  of  the  principal 
materials  required  in  the  manufacture 
of  artificial  butter.  It  .should  be  en- 
tirely free  from  blood  and  particles  of 
meat,  and  is  especially  prepared  for 
the  manufacture  of  margarine  and 
oleomargarine  bv  cutting  it  up  snul 
rendering,  with  an  addition  of  water 
and  crystallized  soda.  To  300  parts  of 
suet  take  100  of  water  and  1  of  crys- 
tallized soda.  The  mass  is  heated 


FOOD  AND  FOOD  PREPARATIONS. 


131 


over  a  moderate  fire  and  frequently 
stirred,  until  the  suet  separates  as  a 
clear  golden-yellow  fluid  on  the  top  of 
the  water.  It  is  then  skimmed  off, 
poured  through  a  sieve,  and  preserved 
for  use. 

Margarine  is  an  imitation  of  butter 
made  from  beef  suet  after  it  has  been 
treated  as  just  described.  The  suet  is 
melted  and  allowed  to  cool,  then  put  in 
tin  moulds  lined  with  linen  cloths  and 
submitted  to  powerful  pressure.  From  50 
to  60  per  cent,  of  margarine  is  obtained, 
the  residue  being  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  candles.  The  lumps  of  mar- 
garine should  not  exceed  2  or  3  pounds 
each. 

Mege's  Process  for  Oleomargarine. 
The  process,  as  carried  on  in  American 
manufactories  working  under  the  Mege 
patents,  is  substantially  as  follows :  The 
selected  beef  fat,  which  is  received  a 
few  hours  after  killing,  is  first  carefully 
worked  free  from  adhering  blood  and 
other  impurities  by  first  soaking  in 
warm  water  and  afterwards  thoroughly 
washing  in  cold  water.  Only  the  pieces 
appearing  richest  in  oil  are  reserved  for 
butter  making,  these  being  cut  off  by  an 
experienced  workman  ;  the  other  parts 
being  thrown  into  tubs  that  find  their 
way  to  the  tallow  factory. 

The  selected  fat,  after  another  wash- 
ing, is  next  introduced  into  a  hashing 
machine,  which  is  an  iron  cylinder 
provided  with  a  number  of  revolving 
knife-blades,  which  cut  up  and  com- 
pletely disintegrate  the  fat  as  it  is  fed 
in  at  one  end  and  forced  out  through  a 
perforated  plate  at  the  other.  This  proc- 
ess is  important,  as  thereby  the  cel- 
lular tissue  is  thoroughly  broken  up, 
and  the  oil  separates  from  the  material 
in  this  condition  at  a  low  tempera- 
ture, and  the  prolonged  application 
of  heat  to  effect  this,  as  is  necessary  in 
the  melting  of  tallow,  and  which  will 
develop  a  rank  and  tallowy  flavor,  is 
avoided. 

The  disintegrated  fat  is  then  melted 
in  caldrons,  which  are  provided  with  a 
water  jacket  and  heated  by  steam.  By 
this  means  the  melting  of  the  fat  takes 
place  at  a  temperature  of  122°  to  124°  F. 
When  the  fat  is  completely  melted  the 
contents  of  the  caldrons  are  permitted 
to  stand  until  they  deposit  the  floating 
fragments  of  membrane,  which  collect 


on  the  bottom,  forming  "  scrap."  On 
top  there  is  formed  a  layer  of  a  white 
emulsion  of  oil  and  water  which  is  re- 
moved, and  the  clear,  yellow  oil  is 
drawn  off  into  suitable  vessels  and  re- 
moved to  the  "  press  "  room.  Here  the 
melted  fat  is  allowed  to  remain  quietly 
for  about  24  hours,  at  a  temperature  of 
about  85°  F.,  to  allow  the  oil  to  granu- 
late by  the  crystallization  of  the  stearine. 

The  granulated  mass  is  next  filled 
into  bags,  set  in  moulds,  and  placed  on 
galvanized  plates  in  a  series  of  presses. 
When  these  are  filled  with  the  bags  they 
are  subjected  to  a  gradually  increasing 
pressure,  under  which  the  fluid  oil  is 
separated,  leaving  the  hard  cakes  of 
stearine  in  the  cloths. 

The  resulting  oily  product  is  a  clear, 
sweet,  yellow  oil,  substantially  similar 
in  composition  to  the  oil  of  butter,  and 
in  this  condition  it  forms  an  excellent 
oil  for  cooking,  and  is  largely  consumed 
for  this  purpose. 

The  next  step  is  the  conversion  of 
this  oil  into  butter  substitute,  or  "  oleo- 
margarine "  butter.  For  this  purposa/ 
it  is  churned  with  fresh  milk  for  aboui 
20  minutes,  in  which  operation  it  ia 
thoroughly  emulsionized  or  broken  up 
into  minute  globules.  A  small  quan- 
tity of  annotto  is  added  at  this  stage,  to 
impart  a  richer  color  to  the  product. 
The  emulsionized  oil  is  then  drawn  off 
into  tubs  containing  pounded  ice,  in 
which  it  cools  suddenly  without  granu- 
lation. Here  it  remains  for  several  hours, 
when  it  is  thoroughly  "  worked "  by- 
hand  and  the  fragments  of  ice  removed. 

To  impart  the  peculiar  butter  flavor 
the  solidified  product  must  be  provided 
with  more  of  the  butyric  elements 
which  impart  to  natural  butter  its  rich 
odor  and  flavor,  and,  for  this  purpose, 
it  is  again  churned  with  fresh  milk. 
After  this  second  churning  the  product 
goes  through  the  same  series  of  opera- 
tions, of  working  by  hand,  salting,  and 
packing,  as  ordinary  butter.  The  fin- 
ished product,  known  as  "  oleomar- 
garine," made  in  this  way,  while  not 
equal  in  flavor  to  the  best  grades  of 
dairy  butter,  is  really  preferable,  in 
taste,  smell,  and  wholesomeness,  to 
much  of  the  butter  sold  in  the  shops, 
and  is  substantially  identical  in  com- 
position to  butter  made  from  cream, 
(W.) 


132  TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 

Composition  of  the  best-known  Milk  foods  for  Children. 


A.    CONDENSED  MILK. 

Water. 

42 
1 

1 

Albuminoids. 

Milk  Sugar. 

Cane  Sugar. 

1.  American    Condensed     Milk    Co.. 
N.  Y  

2.  Anglo-Swiss  Co.,  Switzerland      .     . 
3.  Austria  Condensed  Milk  Co.,  near 
Vienna 

27.72 
26.14 

24.26 
2(510 
25.56 
25.21 
31.3 
24.75 

25.43 
32.80 
24.89 
21.67 

1.81 
2.05 

216 
2.12 
1.87 
2.03 
2.56 
2.17 

1.89 
3.01 
2.61 
2.61 

8.61 
9.92 

9.63 
9.46 
9.80 
921 
10  19 
11.53 

7.01 
9.8 
10.64 
9.15 

9.92 
11.90 

11.82 
11.73 
12.39 
14.65 
12.53 
12.67 

11.34 
13.13 
13.08 
15.86 

51. 

50. 

53. 
50. 
10.18 
13.42 
43. 
11.19 

10.11 
41. 
13.31 
13.48 

84 
80 

13 
59 

•1010 
35  48 
42 
37.69 

42.22 
25 
35.47 
536.23 

4.  Gerber  &  Co.,  of  Thun,  Switzerland 
6.  Hooker's  Cream  Milk  Co.,  London  . 
6.  Italian  Condensed  Milk  Co.,  Milan  . 
7.  Keppel  Bros.,  Kempten      .... 
8.  H.  Nestle,  Vevey,  Switzerland     .     . 
9.  New    York   Condensed    Milk    Co., 
NY.                       .              . 

10.  Norwegian    Condensed    Milk    Co., 
Norway    

11.  West  of  England  Condensed  Milk 
Co 

12.  Waterloo  Dairy  Co.,  Waterloo,  Bel- 
gium     

B.    INFANTS'  FOOD. 

Water. 

42 

i 

1 

1 

o 
a 

I 

1 
< 

Carbo-  Hydrates. 

Soluble. 

Insoluble. 

1.  Anglo-Swiss  Co  
2.  Faust  &  Schuster,  Gottingen   .     .    j 

5  to  6 
6.29 
6.43 
5  to  6 
5.52 

4.22 
9.47 
7.72 
6.07 
5.1 
5.78 
6.36 

2  to  2.5 
1.76 
1.85 
2  to  3 
1.35 

1.78 
1.53 
1.85 
1.65 
2.2 
1.52 
1.85 

5  to  6 
5.03 
4.75 
5  to  6 
4.42 

4.34 
6.81 
4.93 
5.39 
5.4 
4.49 
4.70 

14  to  15 
10.71 
10.96 
17  to  18 
12.36 

12.86 
11.29 
9.21 
11.0 
11.8 
9.96 
10.96 

54  to  55 
48.62 
39.12 
45  to  50 
44.32 

47.68 
35.81 
42.60 
420 
47.0 
45.0 
76. 

15  to  16 
27.59 
34.7 
15  to  20 
31.56 

29.94 
34.59 
33.39 
28.5 
32  75 
32.75 
08 

4    Gerber  &  Co.,  Thun  

5.  Gieffey,   Schiele  <fe  Co.,  Rohrbach, 
Baden  

7.  Oettli  Montreux  Tablet  Powder  .    4 
8    II.  Nestle,  Vevey  j 

Ordinary  artificial  butter  is  made 
from  cotton-seed  oil ;  better  qualities 
from  peanut  oil  and  olive  oil. 

I.  Ordinary     Oleomargarine.     Two 
hundred  and  fifty  parts  of  suet  and  350 
of  good  cotton-seed  oil  are  melted  and 
compounded   with   5    of   palm   oil   in 
order  to  color  the  mixture.     The  fat, 
while  still  warm,  is  poured  through  afine 
sieve  or  cloth  into  a  wooden  vat  and,  with 
constant  stirring,  allowed  to  congeal. 

II.  Better  Quality  of  Oleomargarine. 
Two  hundred  and  fifty  parts  of  ordinary 
•uet,  350  of  good  cotton-seed  oil,  £0  to 


100  of  lard,  and  6  of  palm  oil ;  or,  250 
of  ordinary  suet,  350  of  good  cotton- 
seed oil,  50  to  100  of  margarine,  and  6 
of  palm  oil. 

III.  Very  Fine  Quality  of  Oleomar- 
garine. Two  hundred  and  fifty  parts 
of  ordinary  suet  and  350  of  good  cotton- 
seed oil  are  melted  together.  Into  this 
are  stirred  1  part  of  coarsely  powdered 
cloves,  1  of  coarsely  powdered  orris 
root,  and  12  anchovies  cut  very  fine. 
The  mass  is  then  again  gently  heated 
for  2  to  3  hours,  and  colored  with.  £ 
parts  of  palm  oil. 


FREEZING  MIXTURES. 


Other  Varieties  of  Oleomargarine. 
I.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  parts  of 
suet,  350  of  oil  of  sesame  seed,  or  pea- 
nut oil,  5  of  palm  oil,  or  butter  color, 
and  200  of  genuine  butter. 

II.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  parts  of 
suet,   350    of  oil  of   sesame    seed,   or 
peanut  oil,  200  of  margarine,  7  of  palm 
oil,   or    butter  color,   300  of   genuine 
butter. 

III.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  parts  of 
suet,  350  of  oil  of  sesame  seeds,  or  pea- 
nut oil,  and  200  of  margarine  are  treated 
with  cloves,  orris  root,  and  anchovies  as 
given  under  the  first  No.  III.,  and  then 
compounded  with  7    parts   of   butter 
color  and  200  of  genuine  butter. 

IV.  Four  hundred  parts  of  marga- 
rine, 100  of  genuine  butter,  and  4  of 
butter  color. 

Vienna  Economical  Butter.  Mar- 
garine is  melted  at  a  very  moderate 
heat,  20  percent,  of  sour  whey  is  added, 
and  the  mixture  thoroughly  worked 
together  until  the  whole  is  formed  into 
a  white  froth.  This  is  then  beaten  in  a 
large  vat  until  it  congeals,  by  which 
the  whey  is  separated  and  drawn  off  by 
a  cock.  The  butter  is  then  salted,  if 
necessary,  and  pressed  into  prints. 

A  nother  Receipt.  Two  hundred  parts 
of  perfectly  fresh  beef  suet,  100  of  lard, 
100  of  water,  and  1  of  crystallized  soda 
are  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
suet  for  oleomargarine,  and  to  50  to  60 
parts  of  the  mixture  is  added  a  like 
quantity  of  oil  of  sesame  seed,  or  pea- 
nut oil. 

Ambrosia,  a  new  nourishing  flour 
food,  is  composed  of  the  following  in- 
gredients :  Four  hundred  and  fifty-five 
parts  of  pulverized  chestnuts,  305  of 
potato  flour,  125  of  lentil  flour,  a  like 
quantity  of  bean  flour,  and  91  parts  of 
powdered  vanilla.  It  is  claimed  that 
this  flour  is  very  strengthening  and  can 
be  used  as  a  substitute  for  coffee  and 
chocolate. 

Hydroleine^  which  is  much  adver- 
tised in  American  and  English  papers, 
and  claimed  to  be  very  strengthening, 
contains,  according  to  the  statements  of 
the  manufacturer,  in  2  teaspoonfuls 
(120  drops)  30  drops  of  the  purest  cod- 
liver  oil,  35  drops  of  distilled  water,  6 
grains  of  soluble  pancreatine,  J  grain 
of  soda,  \  grain  of  boracic  acid,  and  fa 
grain  of  glycocholic  acid. 


FREEZING  MIXTURES, 

Freezing  Salt.  The  mixture  intro- 
duced under  this  name  can  be  espe- 
cially recommended  to  confectioners, 
beer  brewers,  and  consumers  of  ice  in 
general.  It  is  inexpensive,  and  a  tem- 
perature of  5°  to  — 22°  F.  can  be  pro- 
duced with  it.  It  is  composed  of  20  per 
cent,  of  calcium  chloride,  alike  quantity 
of  magnesium  chloride,  6  per  cent,  of 
sodium  chloride,  13  per  cent,  of  potas- 
sium chloride,  and  41  per  cent,  of  water. 
By  mixing  this  salt  with  equal  volumes 
of  snow  of  32°  F.  a  freezing  mixture  of 
5°to — 4°  F.  is  obtained.  By  using  equal 
volumes  of  snow  or  pounded  ice  of  23° 
F.  the  temperature  of  the  mixture  falls 
to  below  —22°  F. 

Other  Mixtures.  In  the  following 
we  give  a  number  of  other  mixtures, 
with  the  degree  of  temperature  ob- 
tained with  them : 

1.  Mix  1  part  of  ammonium  nitrate 
with  1  of  water.    — 5°  F. 

2.  Mix  4  parts  of  ammonium  nitrate 
with  3  of  water.    — 13°  F. 

3.  Mix  3  parts  of  pounded  sal-ammo- 
niac, 1  of  saltpetre,  6  of  potassium  chlo- 
rate with  10  of  water.    —21.2°  F. 

4.  Mix  5  parts  of  pounded  sal-ammo- 
niac,  5  of   powdered    saltpetre,   8  of 
crystallized  Glauber's  salt  with  16  of 
water.    —5°  F. 

5.  Mix  10  parts  of  water,  6  of  salt- 
petre, 6  of  sal-ammoniac,  4i  of  crystal- 
lized Glauber's  salt.    —23°  F. 

6.  Mix  16  parts  of  crystallized  Glau- 
ber's salt  with  5  of  crude  hydrochloric 
acid  and  5  of  cold  water.    —3.2°  F. 

7.  Mix  8  parts  of  crystallized  Glau- 
ber's salt  with  5  of  hydrochloric  acid. 
-1.4°  F. 

8.  Mix  1  part  of  crude  hydrochloric 
acid  with  1  of  water,  and  add  3  of  crys- 
tallized Glauber's  salt.    —5°  F. 

9.  Mix  4  parts  of  crystallized  Glau- 
ber's salt  and  3  of  sulphuric  acid  of  41 
per  cent.     23°  to  —17.6°  F. 

10.  Mix  2  parts  of  pounded  ice  or 
snow  with  1  of  common  salt.    — 5°  F. 

11.  Mix    1    part    of    pounded    ice 
or     snow    with    1    of    common    salt. 
—1.4°  F. 

12.  Mix  3  parts  of  pounded  ice  or 
snow   with  4  of  crystallized  calcium 
chloride.    —13°  F. 

13.  Mix  2  parts  of  pounded  ice  or 


134 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


snow  with   3  of  crystallized  calcium 
chloride.    —13°  F. 

14.  Mix  3  parts  of  snow  and  2  of  di- 
luted sulphuric  acid.  32°  to  — 22°  F. 

FRUIT  AND  OTHER  SYRUPS. 

American  Syrups  for  Mineral   Waters 
and  Lemonades. 

Lemon  Syrup.  Peel  fresh  lemons 
and  grate  the  peel  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  granulated  sugar.  Press 
the  peeled  lemons,  and  compound  each 
pint  of  juice  with  1  pint  of  water  and 
3^  pounds  of  granulated  sugar,  in- 
clusive of  that  treated  with  the  peel. 
Heat  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and 
strain. 

Another  Receipt.  One  gallon  of 
white  syrup,  25  drops  of  oil  of  lemon, 
and  10  drachms  of  citric  acid. 

Compound  the  oil  with  the  acid,  add 
the  syrup  gradually,  and  mix. 

Another  Receipt.  Dissolve  6  drachms 
of  tartaric  acid  and  1  ounce  of  gum 
Arabic  in  a  gallon  of  white  syrup,  and 
give  it  the  necessary  flavor  by  adding 
li  drachms  of  the  best  oil  of  lemon, 
or,  instead  of  this,  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  tincture  of  lemon  peel  prepared 
with  eau  de  Cologne. 

Mulberry  Syrup.  Six  parts  of  not 
entirely  ripe  mulberries  and  6  of 
granulated  sugar  Boil  them  with  con- 
stant stirring  until  the  juice  shows  30° 
Beaume  ;  then  strain. 

Vanilla  Syrup.  One  ounce  of  fluid 
extract  of  vanilla,  i  ounce  of  citric 
acid,  1  gallon  of  white  syrup. 

Dissolve  the  acid  by  rubbing  it  with 
a  small  quantity  of  the  syrup,  add  the 
extract,  and  mix. 

Vanilla  Cream  Syrup.  One  ounce 
of  fluid  extract  of  vanilla,  3  pints  of 
white  syrup,  1  pint  of  cream  or  con- 
densed milk.  May  be  colored,  if  de- 
sired, with  carmine. 

Cream  Syrup.  Half  pint  of  fresh 
cream,  £  pint  of  fresh  milk,  and  1 
pound  of  powdered  sugar.  Mix  by 
shaking,  and  keep  in  a  cold  place.  By 
adding  a  few  grains  of  sodium  bicar- 
bonate it  will  keep  longer. 

Ginger  Syrup.  Tincture  of  ginger 
2  ounces,  white  syrup  4  pints.  Mix. 

Pineapple  Syrup.  Cut  up  pine- 
apples of  good  quality,  let  them  stand 


for  24  to  36  hours,  and  then  press  out 
the  juice.  This  is  allowed  to  stand 
over  night;  then  add  for  each  pound 

1  ounce  of  eau  de  Cologne  or  alcohol 
free  from  fusel   oil,  mix,  let  it  again 
stand  over  night,  and  filter.     For  each 
pound  of  filtered  juice  take  li  pounds 
of  sugar,  let  it  boil  up  once,  skim,  and 
put  the  syrup  in  bottles,  which  must 
be    perfectly    clean     and     previously 
rinsed  out  with  a  little  eau  de  Cologne. 
This  syrup,  as  well  as  all  others  pre- 
pared in  the  same   manner,  is  strong 
enough  to  allow  of  being  mixed  with 

2  to  3  parts  of  white  syrup,  especially 
for  effervescing  waters. 

Strawberry  Syrup.  Use  only  very 
fine  and  aromatic  berries,  as  otherwise 
the  syrup  will  not  be  of  excellent 
quality.  Especially  avoid  rotten  fruit. 
Mash  the  strawberries,  and  let  the 
paste  stand  for  12  to  24  hours,  at  a  tem- 
perature of  70°  to  80°  F.  Then  stir  it 
once  more  and  press.  The  further 
treatment  is  the  same  as  for  pineapple 
syrup. 

Peach,  Raspberry,  and  Currant  syr- 
ups are  prepared  in  the  same  manner 
as  strawberry  syrup. 

Cherry  Syrup.  A  sufficient  quantity 
of  cherries  are  pounded  in  a  porcelain 
or  stone  mortar  in  order  to  comminute 
the  stones  also.  Press  out  the  juice, 
let  it  stand  for  3  days,  to  allow  it  to 
ferment,  filter,  and  then  treat  in  the 
same  manner  as  strawberry  syrup. 

Orange  Syrup.  Oil  of  orange  30 
drops,  tartaric  acid  4  drachms,  white 
syrup  1  gallon.  Rub  the  oil  with  the 
acid,  dissolve  and  mix. 

Sherbet  Syrup.  Vanilla  syrup  3 
pints,  pineapple  syrup  1  pint,  lemon 
syrup  1  pint.  Mix. 

Nectar  Syrup.  Five  pints  of  vanilla 
syrup,  1  of  pine-apple  syrup,  2  of  straw- 
berry, raspberry,  or  lemon  syrup. 

Coffee  Syrup.  Ground  roasted  coffee 
£  pound  and  sufficient  boiling  water 
to  filter  off  i  gallon  of  infusion.  Dis- 
solve in  it  7  pounds  of  granulated 
sugar  without  using  heat. 

Another  Receipt.  Two  ounces  of 
roasted  coffee,  2  of  white  syrup.  Mix, 
and  bring  the  mixture  into  a  filter  and 
add  a  boiling  solution  of  12  ounces  of 
sugar  and  8  of  distilled  water. 

Wintergreen  Syrup.  Twenty-five 
drops  of  oil  of  wintergreen,  5  pints  of 


FRUIT  AND  OTHER  SYRUPS. 


135 


white  syrup,  and  as  much  sugar  color 
as  is  required  for  coloring. 

Maple  Syrup.  Four  pounds  of 
maple  sugar  and  2  pints  of  water. 
Dissolve  like  white  syrup. 

Chocolate  Syrup.  Eight  ounces  of 
the  finest  chocolate,  2  pints  of  water,  4 
pounds  of  sugar.  Mix  the  chocolate 
with  the  water  at  a  moderate  heat, 
strain,  and  dissolve  the  sugar  in  it. 

Another  Receipt.  Pound  2  ounces 
of  roasted  cocoa  shells  to  a  coarse 
powder,  mix  this  with  2  ounces  of 
white  syrup,  bring  the  mixture  into 
a  strainer  and  exhaust  it  with  a  boil- 
ing solution  of  12  ounces  of  sugar  and 
8  of  water.  Then  add  2  drachms  of 
vanilla  extract. 

White  or  Red  Wine  Syrup.  Mix  1 
pint  of  red  or  white  wine  with  2  pints 
of  white  syrup. 

Coffee  Cream  Syrup.  Mix  2  pints 
of  coffee  syrup  with  1  of  cream. 

Solferino  Syrup.  Mix  1  pint  of 
cognac  and  2  pints  of  white  syrup. 

Ambrosia  Syrup.  Mix  2  pints  of 
raspberry  syrup  with  2  of  vanilla 
syrup  and  4  ounces  of  white  wine. 

Orgeat  Syrup.  Eight  ounces  of 
sweet  almonds,  24  of  bitter  almonds,  3 
pounds  of  sugar,  26  ounces  of  water, 
and  4  ounces  of  orange-flower  water. 
Peel  the  almonds  and  pound  them  to  a 
smooth  paste  with  2  ounces  of  water 
and  12  of  sugar.  Mix  the  paste  gradu- 
ally with  the  remaining  water,  subject 
it  to  a  strong  pressure,  and  dissolve 
the  remaining  sugar  at  a  moderate 
heat.  When  cold,  add  the  orange- 
flower  water. 

Milk  Piinch  Syrup.  Mix  1  pint 
of  white  syrup,  8  ounces  of  cognac,  8 
ounces  of  Jamaica  rum,  and  1  pint  of 
cream  syrup. 

Champagne  Syrup.  Two  pints  of 
Rhine  wine,  2  ounces  of  cognac,  1 
ounce  of  sherry,  3  pounds  of  granulated 
sugar.  Dissolve  the  sugar  by  macer- 
ating it  without  the  use  of  heat. 

Sherry  Cobbler  Syrup.  One  pint  of 
sherry  and  H  pints  of  white  syrup.  Cut 
one  lemon  into  thin  slices,  macerate  for 
12  hours,  and  strain. 

Orange-flower  Syrup.  One  pint  of 
orange-flower  water,  28  ounces  of  gran- 
ulated sugar.  Dissolve  without  the  use 
of  heat. 

Cinnamon  Syrup.    Thirty  drops  of 


oil  of  cinnamon,  60  grains  of  carbonate 
of  magnesia,  2  pints  of  water,  56  ounces 
of  granulated  sugar.  Rub  the  oil  to- 
gether with  the  magnesia,  next  with  the 
water,  and  filter.  Dissolve  the  sugar 
in  the  cold  filtrate. 

Ginger  Beer  Symp.  Two  pints  of 
ginger  syrup,  1  of  lemon  syrup,  3  grains 
of  tincture  of  Spanish  cress.  Mix. 

To  make  the  syrups  sparkle  add  2  to 
4  ounces  of  guui  Arabic,  dissolved  in 
equal  parts  of  water  to  each  gallon. 

How  to  Clarity  Sugar  Syrups.  It 
happens  sometimes  that  the  syrup  does 
not  turn  out  sufficiently  clear  notwith- 
standing the  use  of  a  clear  infusion  and 
the  best  sugar.  This  is  sometimes 
caused  by  a  small  percentage  of  lime  in 
the  sugar,  or  by  the  coloring  substance 
which  has  been  added  to  increase  the 
whiteness  of  the  sugar.  To  clarify  the 
syrup  with  white  of  egg  increases  the 
cost  of  preparing  it  and  contributes 
nothing  to  its  keeping  quality.  The 
best  means  of  clarifying  is  by  the  use 
of  a  pulp  of  good  filtering  paper.  The 
pulp  of  U  drachms  of  paper  will,  in 
most  cases,  suffice  for  1  pint  of  syrup.  It 
is  added  to  the  fluid  which  is  to  be  made 
into  syrup  with  the  sugar.  The  paper 
pulp  is  prepared  by  picking  the  paj»er 
to  pieces,  placing  it  in  a  capacious  flask, 
pouring  distilled  water  over  it,  shaking 
it  vigorously  several  times,  and  collect- 
ing it  upon  a  strainer.  The  moist  pulp, 
wh  ich  snou  Id  not  be  squeezed  out,is  used. 

Other  Fruit  Syrups.  Marsh-mallow 
Syrup.  Peel  and  cut  in  pieces  2 
ounces  of  marsh-mallow  root  and  pour 
li  pints  of  hot  water  over  it.  Strain 
when  cold,  and  dissolve  in  it  41  pounds 
of  white  sugar.  Beat  the  white  of  two 
eggs,  pour  this  into  the  mass,  boil, 
skim,  and  strain  it. 

Balsam  Syrup.  Digest  in  a  glass 
vessel  1  ounce  of  black  Peruvian  bal- 
sam with  1  pound  of  water.  Let  it 
stand  for  a  few  hours.  Filter  the  fluid, 
and  dissolve  in  this  by  boiling  1£ 
pounds  of  loaf  sugar,  and  strain  through 
a  woollen  cloth. 

Barberry  Syrup.  Pound  and  press 
ripe  barberries,  and  allow  the  ob- 
tained juice  to  stand  until  it  is  clear. 
Add  to  U  pounds  of  this  juice  3i 
pounds  of  white  sugar,  and  boil  the 
mass  to  a  thin  syrup,  which  must 
be  strained  through  a  woollen  cloth. 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Blackberry  Syrup.  Pound  ripe  black- 
berries, press  the  juice  out,  and  allow  it 
to  clear.  To  1  pound  of  this  juice  add 
3  pounds  of  white  sugar,  boil  the  mass 
to  syrup,  and  strain  it,  while  hot, 
through  a  cloth. 

Lemon  Syrup.  Press  the  juice  from 
fresh  lemons  and  let  it  stand  until  it 
has  become  clear.  Then  add  to  1 
pound  of  this  juice  3  pounds  of  white 
sugar  and  boil  the  mass  to  a  thin 
syrup. 

Camomile  Syrup.  Pour  hot  water 
over  4  ounces  of  camomile  flowers, 
strain,  and  in  1  pound  of  this  decoction  j 
dissolve  at  a  moderate  heat  3  pounds 
of  white  sugar.  Strain,  while  hot, 
through  a  woollen  cloth. 

Manna  Syrup.  Dissolve  in  boiling 
water  £  part  of  picked  manna,  add  to 
the  solution  2  parts  of  white  sugar,  and 
allow  the  mass  to  boil  up  once. 

Rhubarb  Syrup.  Pour  2  pounds  of 
boiling  water  over  3  ounces  of  rhubarb 
root  cut  in  pieces,  6  drachms  of  cassia 
bark,  and  4  drachms  of  carbonate  of 
potassium.  Let  it  stand  for  24  hours, 
then  strain  the  fluid.  To  1  pound  of 
the  strained  fluid  add  3  pounds  of  white 
sugar  and  boil  the  mass  to  a  thin 
syrup. 

Saffron  Syrup.  Digest  for  several 
hours  1  part  of  saffron  with  30  of 
French  white  wine.  Strain  the  fluid 
and  dissolve  in  20  parts  of  it  45  of 
white  sugar.  Then  filter  through  a 
cloth. 

Senna  Syrup.  Place  8  parts  of  senna 
leaves  and  1  of  pounded  anise  seed  in  \ 
a  porcelain  vessel,  and  pour  60  of  boil- 
ing water  over  them.  Let  the  mass 
stand  for  a  few  hours,  squeeze  it  out, 
and  strain  the  fluid.  Then  dissolve 
in  45  parts  of  it  90  of  sugar,  boil 
it  up  once,  and  strain  through  a 
cloth. 

Seneca  Root  Syrup.  Boil  2  parts  of 
Seneca  root,  cut  in  pieces,  in  45  of  water. 
To  20  parts  of  this  add  45  of  white  sugar, 
and  boil  it  to  a  thin  syrup. 

Licorice  Syrup.     Boil  for  i  hour  at  a 
moderate  fire  15  parts  of  licorice  root, 
cut  in  pieces,  in  90  of  water,  pour  the 
liquid  off,  and  evaporate  it  to  56  parts,  j 
Add  to  this  60  parts  of  white  sugar  and  | 
60  of  purified  honey,  and  allow  it  to  ; 
boil  up  once. 

Violet  Syrup.     Place  15  parts  of  fresh 


violets  from  which  the  calix  has  been 
removed  and  60  parts  of  water  in  a 
vessel,  and  close  it  hermetically.  Let 
it  stand  for  12  hours,  strain  the  fluid, 
add  90  parts  of  white  sugar,  and  boil  to 
a  thin  syrup. 

Cinnamon  Syrup.  Digest  in  a  closed 
vessel  for  2  days  4  parts  of  cassia  bark, 
with  30  of  vinous  cinnamon  water,  and 
4  of  rose-water.  Strain  it,  and  in  24 
parts  of  the  strained  fluid  dissolve  at  a 
moderate  heat  45  of  white  sugar.  Then 
strain  through  a  cloth. 

Eciy  Syrup.  This,  according  to  Payen, 
is  prepared  by  beating  the  yolks  and 
whites  of  1  pound  of  eggs  (about  10 
egg's)  with  the  same  volume  of  water, 
until  the  mass  is  sufficiently  fluid  to 
allow  of  it  being  strained  through  a 
cloth.  What  has  passed  through  is 
then  beaten  to  a  froth,  and  If  pounds 
of  pulverized  sugar  are  added  to  it,  and 
then  20  drops  of  orange-blossom  water. 
In  order  to  make  it  keep  better,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  add  -\  ounce  of  common  salt. 
The  mixture  is  thoroughly  stirred  for 
i  hour,  and  when  it  is  quite  fluid  the 
scum  is  removed  and  the  syrup  filled 
into  4  ounce  bottles.  When  used  it  is 
mixed  with  10  times  its  volume  of 
water. 

Cochineal  Syrup.  One  and  a  half 
drachms  of  powdered  cochineal,  l£ 
pounds  of  boiling  distilled  water,  3i 
pounds  of  sugar,  and  2\  ounces  of  recti- 
fied spirit  of  wine.  The  cochineal  is 
boiled  in  water  in  a  closed  vessel  for 
15  minutes,  and  then  strained.  To  this 
fluid  is  added  double  its  weight  of  sugar, 
and  when  this  is  dissolved,  and  after 
the  fluid  has  become  cool,  £  fluid 
drachm  of  spirit  of  wine  is  added  to  1 
ounce  of  it.  This  syrup  is  used  for 
coloring  medicines. 

Syrup  of  Ferrous  Nitrate.  Take  2 
parts  of  iron  wire  in  small  pieces,  3  of 
nitric  acid  of  1.42  specific  gravity,  13 
of  water,  and  25  of  sugar.  Pour  3  parts 
of  the  water  upon  the  iron,  mix  the  rest 
of  the  water  with  the  acid,  and  pour 
this  gradually  upon  the  iron  until  the 
acid  is  saturated,  which  may  be  recog- 
nized with  the  aid  of  litmus  paper. 
The  fluid  is  then  filtered  over  the  sugar, 
and  the  syrup,  if  necessary,  is  increased 
to  30  parts  by  pouring  water  upon  the 
filtrate.  The  syrup  should  be  kept  in 
well -closed  bottles. 


FUEL  AND  HEATING.      FUSIBLE  COLORS. 


1*7 


FUEL  AND  HEATING.  HEAT  INSULA- 
TION (NON-OONDUCTIKQ  COVER- 
INGS). 

Necker*s Kindling  Compound.  Knead 
melted  rosin  with  sawdust  until  the 
mass  does  not  draw  threads  between 
the  fingers,  and  then  form  long  pieces 
of  it. 

Economical  Fuel.  I.  Take  §  of  soft, 
moist  clay  containing  no  stones,  knead 
it  thoroughly  with  £  coal  dust,  form 
small  balls  of  the  mass,  and  dry  them. 

II.  Take  equal  parts  of  pulverized 
charcoal  or  coal,  pulverized  coke,  and 
moist  clay,  and  form  the  mass  into  balls 
the  size  of  a  hen's  egg.     Some  sawdust, 
finely  cut  straw,  etc.,  may  be  added  to 
the  mass. 

III.  Instead  of  the  clay  and  coal,  cow 
or   horse    dung,    sawdust,   peat,   spent 
tan,  or  straw,  can  be  used,  and  mixed 
with   pulverized  glass,  pitch,  tar,  oil- 
cake, etc.     The  quantity  of  coal  to  be 
added  depends  on  the  size  of  the  stove 
in  which  the  fuel  is  to  be  burned;  the 
larger  the  stove  the  more  coal. 

Fuel  from  Coal  and  Rosin.  The  coal 
and  rosin  are  comminuted,  heated,  and 
mixed  with  pitch,  coal-tar,  and  fat,  by 
means  of  a  mixing  machine,  when  the 
mass  is  pressed  into  cakes.  Coke  is 
used  in  a  similar  manner. 

King's  Patent  Fuel.  Peat  is  mixed 
with  coal-tar,  pitch,  asphaltum,  lime- 
stone, common  salt,  and  borax,  in  vary- 
ing proportions  according  to  the  pur- 
poses for  which  the  fuel  is  to  be  used. 

Coal-dust  Fuel  (Loiseau*s  Patent). 
Dust  of  bituminous  coal,  or  anthracite, 
is  mixed  with  about  7  per  cent,  of  plastic 
clay,  and  made  up  into  bricks,  which 
are  dipped  into  ordinary  benzole  con 
taining  rosin  in  solution.  They  are 
then  exposed  to  a  current  of  air, 
whereby  the  benzole  is  evaporated,  and 
a  coating  of  rosin  is  left  on  the  surface 
which  renders  the  coal  bricks  water- 
tight. 

Blair's  Patent  Fuel.  Slate  and  coal 
waste  are  pulverized  and  mixed  with 
coal-tar,  schist  oil,  petroleum,  or  par- 
affine  oil  and  intimately  impregnated 
with  them  by  using  steam.  The  entire 
mass  is  then  formed  into  bricks  by  sub- 
jecting it  to  strong  pressure. 

Infusorial  Earth  for  Insulating 
Steam-pipes,  though,  one  of  the  best 


non-conductors,  is  too  expensive  to  be 
used  by  itself  as  an  insulating  material. 
But  by  enveloping  the  pipes  first  with 
a  layer  of  about  1  inch  in  thickness  of 
ordinary  insulating  material,  such  as 
straw  and  clay,  ete.,  and  coating  this 
with  a  thin  layer  of  a  mixture  of  in- 
fusorial earth  with  soda  water-glass, 
good  resnlts  will  be  obtained.  In  ap- 
plying the  mixture  care  must  be  had 
to  lay  on  a  fresh  quantity  only  when 
the  first  laver  is  entirely  dry,  which 
may  be  readily  recognized  by  the  \vhit« 
appearance  of  the  coat.  To  make  the 
1  yer  more  durable  a  light  coat  of  oil 
should  finally  be  given. 

Heat-insulating  Coverings  for  fcteam- 
pipes,  etc.  Felt,  cork  waste,  mineral 
wool,  or  asbestos  pulp,  either  made  into 
suitable  forms  and  attached  to  the  pipe, 
or  filled  into  a  casing  surrounding  the 
pipe,  and  with  or  without  an  air-space 
about  the  pipe,  are  much  used  for  the 
above  purpose.  (W.) 


FUSIBLE  COLORS  USED  IN  PORCE- 
LAIN PAINTING. 

Brianchon's  Peculiar  Process  of 
Painting  Glass,  Porcelain,  etc.  Pre- 
paring the  Flux.  Melt  in  a  saucer  30 
parts  of  rosin,  and  add,  during  the 
melting,  10  parts  of  baric  nitrate  of  bis- 
muth in  small  portions  with  constant 
stirring.  When  the  mixture  begins  to 
assume  a  brown  color  pour  40  parts  of 
oil  of  lavender  into  the  saucer  and  stir 
until  the  ingredients  are  intimately 
combined.  Now  take  the  saucer  from 
the  sand-bath,  allow  the  contents  to 
cool,  and  then  add  35  parts  of  oil  of 
lavender,  when  the  flux  is  ready  for 
use.  The  salts  and  oxides  of  antimony, 
chromium,  cobalt,  copper,  iron,  iridium, 
palladium,  platinum,  rhodium,  silver, 
uranium,  zinc,  etc.,  are  used  as  color- 
ing substances ;  and  gold,  if  the  colors 
of  mother-of-pearl  or  a  prismatic  play 
of  colors  is  to  be  produced. 

Ador  and  Abbadie's  Zinciferous 
Metallic  Colors.  Solution  of  Zinc  Salt. 
A  solution  of  zinc  salt  is  prepared  by 
mixing  100  parts  of  zinc  salt  with  a 
solution  of  another  metallic  salt  of 
known  specific  gravity.  The  mixture 
is  evaporated  to  the  consistency  of 
dough  and  heated  in  a  refractory  clay 


138 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


retort.  As  soon  as  the  residue  assumes 
the  desired  color  it  is  time  to  withdraw 
the  heated  product  from  the  furnace. 

This  solution  of  zinc  is  requisite  for 
producing  the  zinciferous  metallic 
colors. 

Bronze  Color.  Add  to  the  zinc  solu- 
tion 3  parts  of  solution  of  nitrate  of 
cobalt  of  15°  to  16°  Beaume,  3  of  solu- 
tion of  nitrate  of  nickel,  and  1  to  1£  of 
solution  of  nitrate  of  copper. 

Chamois  Color  (Leather  Yellow}.  Add 
to  solution  of  zinc  salt  IV  to  2V  parts  of 
solution  of  ferrous  sulphate  of  28°  to  30° 
Beaume. 

Gray  Color.  Add  2V.  parts  of  solu- 
tion of  blue  vitriol  to  solution  of  zinc 
salt. 

Green  Color.  Add  2£  parts  of  solu- 
tion of  nitrate  of  cobalt  of  20°  Beaume 
to  solution  of  zinc  salt. 

Rose-red  Color.  Add  2  to  3  parts  of 
solution  of  ferric  nitrate  of  20°  to  25° 
Beaume  to  solution  of  zinc  salt. 

Yellow  Color  (Golden).  Add  2J 
parts  of  solution  of  nitrate  of  manganese 
of  12°  to  14°  Beaume  and  a  few  drops 
of  saturated  solution  of  silver  to  solu- 
tion of  zinc  salt. 

Ye/low  Color  (Roman).  This  is  ob- 
tained by  heating  sulphate  of  zinc  in 
clay  retorts. 

Yellowish-green  Color.  Add  2 \  parts 
of  solution  of  nitrate  of  nickel  of  15?  to 
10°  Beauine  to  solution  of  zinc  salt. 


OTHER  COLORS. 

Slack  (Cobalt  and  Manganese).  Mix 
2  parts  of  anhydrous  sulphate  of  cobalt, 
2  of  anhydrous  manganous  sulphate, 
and  5  of  saltpetre.  Heat  the  mixture 
to  complete  decomposition.  By  boiling 
the  mass  a  residue  of  a  deep  black  color 
is  obtained,  consisting  of  cobalt  and 
manganese.  One  part  of  this  black, 
dry  residue  is  then  triturated  with  2i 
of 'lead  glass  (for  the  preparation  of 
this  see  Iridium,  Black). 

Slack  (Iridium).  Mix  1  part  of  me- 
tallic iridium  with  1  of  decrepitated 
salt,  place  the  mixture  in  a  porcelain 
tube,  introduce  a  current  of  chlorine 
gas,  and  bring  it  to  a  gentle  red  heat. 
The  resulting  product  is  extracted  from 
the  non-decomposed  iridium  with  water. 
By  evaporating  this  watery  solution  of 


the  double  salt  to  dryness  with  sodhiia 
carbonate  and  extracting  it  with  water, 
a  black  sesquioxide  of  iridium  is  ob- 
tained. One  part  of  this,  mixed  with  2 
of  lead  glass  and  rubbed  fine  upon  a 
glass  plate,  gives  a  very  beautiful  black 
color. 

The  lead  glass  is  obtained  by  fusing 
together  12  parts  of  minium,  3  of  fine 
white  sand,  and  1  of  calcined  borax. 

Black  (Refractory).  Triturate  upon 
a  glass  plate  5  parts  of  violet-blue  (ob- 
tained from  gold-purple),  1§  of  sesqui- 
oxide of  cobalt,  and  If  of  stannic  oxide. 

Blue  (Azure).  Triturate  upon  a 
glass  plate  2  parts  of  dark  blue  (which 
see),  1  of  stannic  oxide,  and  4  of  lead 
glass  (consisting  of  4  parts  of  minium 
and  1  of  sand). 

Blue  (Dark).  Mix  1  part  of  chemi- 
cally pure  sesquioxide  of  cobalt,  1  of 
stannic  oxide,  1  of  lead  glass  (composed 
of  2  parts  of  minium.  1  of  sand,  and  1 
of  calcined  borax),  and  4  of  lead  glass 
(consisting  of  2  parts  of  minium  and  1 
of  sand).  Fuse  these  substances  for  3 
hours  at  a  white  heat,  when  the  mass  is 
poured  out,  comminuted,  and  rubbed 
fine  upon  a  glass  plate. 

Blue  (Shading).  Mix  and  fuse  in 
the  manner  given  under  dark  blue  10 
parts  of  sesquioxide  of  cobalt,  9  of  stan- 
nic oxide,  25  of  lead  glass  (consisting 
of  2  parts  of  minium  and  1  of  sand),  and 
5  parts  of  lead  glass  (composed  of  2 
parts  of  minium,  1  of  sand,  and  1  of 
borax). 

Blue  ( Turkish).  Dissolve  3  parts  of 
chemically  pure  sesquioxide  of  cobalt 
and  1  of  stannic  oxide  in  sulphuric  acid ; 
dilute  the  solution  with  water  and  add 
40  parts  of  ammonia  alum.  The  mixed 
solutions  are  now  evaporated  to  dry- 
ness,  then  powdered  and  exposed  in  a 
crucible  to  a  red  heat  for  several  hours. 
The  Turkish-blue  color  is  obtained  by 
mixing  1  part  of  the  residue  with  2  of 
bismuth  glass,  which  is  produced  by 
fusing  together  5  parts  of  teroxide  of 
bismuth  and  1  of  crystallized  boracic 
acid. 

Bluish-green.  Mix  10  parts  of  pro- 
tochloride  of  mercury  and  1  part  of 
chemically  pure  sesquioxide  of  cobalt. 
Triturate  the  mixture  upon  a  glass 
plate  and  then  heat  it  in  small  portions 
in  a  glass  tube  open  on  both  ends  until 
all  mercury  has  been  expelled.  A 


FUSIBLE  COLORS  USED  IN  PORCELAIN  PAINTING,  ETC.     139 

beautiful  bluish-green  color  is  obtained  1  Brown  (Sepia).  Mix  1  part  of  anhy- 
in  this  manner.  This  is  then  placed  in  j  drous  ferrous  sulphate,  1  of  anhydrous 
a  porcelain  crucible  with  a  luted  cover  !  manganous  sulphate,  1  of  anhydrous 
and  subjected  to  the  strongest  heat  of  a  sulphate  of  zinc,  and  5  of  saltpetre,  and 
porcelain  furnace  as  long  as  the  burn-  |  fuse  and  treat  the  mixture  in  the  same 
ing  of  the  porcelain  continues.  When  manner  as  bistre  brown  No.  I. 


cold  the  crucible  is  broken  up,  the  con- 
tents taken  out  and  washed  with  water 
to  remove  the  last  traces  of  the  adher- 
ing potash.  A  combination  of  chrome 
green  with  sesquioxide  of  cobalt,  having 
the  color  of  verdigris,  is  obtained. 

Jj/iush-red.  Heat  sulphate  of  iron 
until  it  has  acquired  a  loose  structure 
and  a  bluish-red  color.  The  fusible 
color  is  then  prepared  by  mixing  and 
rubbing  fine,  upon  a  glass  plate,  2  parts 
of  purple-colored  ferric  oxide  and  5  of 
lead  glass  (prepared  by  fusing  together 
5  parts  of  minium,  2  of  sand,  and  1  of 
calcined  borax). 

Brown  (Bistre}.  No.  I.  Mix  1  part 
of  anhydrous  manganous  sulphate,  8  of 
anhydrous  sulphate  of  zinc,  12  of  anhy- 
drous ferrous  sulphate,  and  26  of  salt 
petre.  Heat  the  mixture  in  a  Hessian 
crucible  until  the  saltpetre  is  completely 
decomposed.  The  crucible,  when  cold, 
is  broken  up,  the  residue  taken  out, 
and  the  soluble  parts  extracted  by  boil- 
ing in  water.  The  brown  powder  ob- 
tained is  then  mixed  with  2i  times  its 
weight  of  lead  glass,  prepared  as  above 
indicated. 

No.  II.  Mix  1  part  of  anhydrous 
manganous  sulphate,  4  of  anhydrous 
ferrous  sulphate,  4  of  anhydrous  sul- 
phate of  zinc,  and  12  of  saltpetre. 

This  color  is  prepared  in  the  same 


Brownish-red.  Heat,  sulphate  of 
iron  until  the  sulphuric  acid  has  been 
entirely  expelled  and  a  sample  taken 
from  the  crucible  shows  a  dark  red 
color.  The  ferric  oxide  is  freed  from 
undecomposed  salt  by  washing  with 
water  and  then  dried.  To  produce  the 
fusible  color  2  parts  of  this  ferric  oxide 
are  mixed  with  24  of  lead  glass,  prepared 
as  above,  and  rubbed  fine  upon  a  glass 
plate. 

Chamois.  Mix  and  rub  fine  1  part 
of  ferric  hydrate,  produced  by  precip- 
itating it  with  aqua  ammonia  from  solu- 
tion of  ferric  oxide,  and  4  parts  of  lead 
glass,  prepared  as  above.  This  color  is 
laid  on  very  thin  and  produces  a  yel- 
lowish-brown ground. 

Flesh  Color.  Mix  and  rub  fine  1 
part  of  red  ferric  oxide,  1  of  dark  yellow 
color,  No.  II.  (which  see),  and  10  of 
lead  glass,  prepared  as  above. 

Gray  (Chrome).  Mix  1  part  of  ferric 
hydrate  with  2  of  protochromate  of 
mercury.  Triturate  the  mixture  upon 
a  glass  plate  and  heat  it,  by  placing  the 
saucer  containing  it  into  an  open  muflie, 
until  all  the  mercury  is  expelled.  The 
dark  red  combination  of  sesquioxide  of 
chromium  and  ferric  hydrate  is  mixed 
with  3  times  its  weight  of  above-de- 
scribed lead  glass.  The  mixture  is  then 
rubbed  fine  upon  a  glass  plate. 


manner  as  No.  I. 

Brown  (Dark).     Mix  1  part  of  anhy- 
drous sulphate  of  cobalt,  4  of  anhydrous     ~^~,    „„«    ~-    ~.    „„„,*,  v^v,**~ ^c.^ 

sulphate  of  zinc,  4  of  anhydrous  ferrous  •  glass,  and  rub  the  mixture  fine  upon  a 
sulphate,  and  10  of  saltpetre,  and  treat  j  glass  plate. 


Gray  (Iridium).  Mix  1  part  of  ses- 
quioxide of  iridium,  4  parts  of  oxide  of 
zinc,  and  22  of  above-described  lead 


in  the  same  manner  as  bistre  brown 
No.  I. 

Brown  (Pale).  No.  I.  Mix  6  parts 
of  anhydrous  ferrous  sulphate,  4  of  an- 
hydrous sulphate  of  zinc,  and  13  of 
saltpetre,  and  treat  in  the  same  manner 
as  bistre  brown  No.  I. 

No.  II.  Mix  2  parts  of  anhydrous 
ferrous  sulphate,  2  of  anhydrous  sul- 
phate of  zinc,  and  5  of  saltpetre.  Fuse 
and  treat  the  mixture  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  given  for  bistre  brown  No.  I. 
Then  mix  2  parts  of  the  residue  with  5 
of  lead  glass,  prepared  as  above. 


Green  (Dark).  Heat  protochromate 
of  mercury  in  a  porcelain  tube,  open  on 
both  ends,  until  all  the  mercury  has 
been  expelled,  and  mix  1  part  of  the 
resulting  sesquioxide  of  chromium  with 
3  parts  of  above-described  lead  glass. 

Green  (Grass)  is  obtained  by  mixing 
1  part  of  bluish-green  with  6  of  lemon 
color  (which  see). 

Green  (Shading).  Mix  8  parts  of  pro- 
tochromate of  mercury  with  1  of  sesqui- 
oxide of  cobalt.  Place  the  mixture  in 
a  flat  saucer  and  subject  it  to  the  full 
heat  of  a  porcelain  furnace.  Mix  the 


140 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


residue  with  double  its  weight  of  lead 
glass,  prepared  as  above  described.  The 
result  will  be  a  beautiful  black-green 
color. 

Lustre  Colors.  Gold.  Melt  in  a  sau- 
cer in  a  sand-bath  30  parts  of  colophony, 
and  add  10  parts  of  uranic  nitrate  and, 
with  constant  stirring,  35  to  40  parts  of 
oil  of  lavender.  When  the  mixture  is 
entirely  homogeneous  take  it  from  the 
sand-bath  and  add  35  to  40  parts  more 
of  oil  of  lavender, 

By  intimately  mixing  the  mass  thus 
obtained  with  a  like  quantity  of  bis- 
muth glass,  prepared  by  fusing  together 
4  parts  of  oxide  of  bismuth  and  4  of 
crystallized  boracic  acid,  a  brilliant 
yellow  color  will  be  the  result. 

Orange-red.  Melt  in  a  saucer  15 
parts  of  colophony,  and  mix  with  it 
gradually  and  with  constant  stirring  15 
parts  of  ferric  nitrate  and  18  of  oil  of 
lavender.  When  the  mixture  is  homo- 
geneous take  it  from  the  fire,  and,  when 
cool,  add  20  parts  more  of  oil  of  laven- 
der. By  mixing  J  part  of  this  mass 
with  §  of  bismuth  glass  (see  Gold), 
orange,  red,  and  all  intermediate  colors 
can  be  obtained  according  to  the  quan- 
tity of  bismuth  glass  used. 

Orange.  Mix  and  rub  fine  upon  a 
marble  slab  2  parts  of  uranic  oxide,  1 
of  chloride  of  silver,  and  3  of  bismuth 
(see  Gold). 

Prismatic  Colors.  Rub  upon  a  plate 
cyanide  of  gold  with  mercuric  cyanide, 
so  that  a  paste  is  formed.  This,  after 
drying,  is  triturated  with  oil  of  laven- 
der. The  auriferous  combination  is 
mixed  with  1,  2,  3  to  10  times  its  quan- 
tity of  bismuth  glass  (see  Gold).  Laid 
on  biscuit  and  coating  it  with  solution 
of  uranium,  light  and  dark  iridescent 
colors  are  obtained.  The  colors  may 
all  be  mixed  together  or  applied  one  on 
top  of  the  other.  Mother-of-pearl  colors 
can  be  easier  produced  upon  glass  than 
upon  porcelain.  For  these  it  is  neces- 
sary to  mix  the  bismuth  glass  with  lead 
glass,  and  frequently  chloride  of  anti- 
mony mixed  with  rosin  must  be  added. 

Purple  (Dark).  Dilute  a  clear  solu- 
tion of  li  drachms  of  gold  in  aqua  regia 
with  20  pounds  of  distilled  water,  and 
add,  with  constant  stirring,  U  drachms 
of  solution  of  protochloride  of  tin.  The 
fluid  will  assume  a  deep  brown-red 
color,  and  precipitation  will  take  place 


by  adding  a  few  drops  of  sulphuric 

acid.     The  fluid  is  now  poured  off,  the 

precipitate  washed  5  or  6  times  with 

water,   and   is  then  collected  upon   a 

filter,  where  it  is  allowed  to  drain  off, 

!  and  then,  while  still  moist,  is  placed 

'  with  a  silver  spatula  upon  a  glass  plate, 

I  where  it  is  intimately  mixed  with   3 

j  drachms  of  very  fine  lead  glass,  obtained 

i  as  above.     The  mixture  is  dried,  then 

mixed  with  li  drachms  of  carbonate  of 

j  silver,  and  rubbed  fine.     About  -i  ounce 

!  of  dark  purple  will  be  obtained  in  this 

manner. 

Purple  (Pale}.  Dissolve  li  drachms 
of  shavings  of  tin  in  boiling  aqua  reyia, 
and  concentrate  the  solution  in  a  water- 
bath  until  it  becomes  solid.  In  this 
manner  chloride  of  tin  is  obtained  con- 
taining hydrochloric  acid  in  excess, 
wrhich  is  dissolved  with  a  little  distilled 
water  and  mixed  with  \  drachm  of  pro- 
tochloride of  tin  of  1.7  specific  gravity. 
The  solution  of  tin  is  then  gradually 
:  mixed  in  a  large  beaker  glass  with  2£ 
gallons  of  water,  but  the  solution  should 
i  contain  a  sufficient  quantity  of  acid  to 
prevent  a  separation  of  stannic  oxide. 
A  solution  of  8  grains  of  gold  in  aqua 
regia,  which  has  been  previously  evap- 
orated nearly  to  dryness  in  a  water- 
bath,  then  diluted  with  water,  and 
filtered  in  a  dark  room,  is  now  added 
to  the  solution  of  tin,  which  has  also 
I  been  diluted  with  water. 

The  fluid  will  assume  a  deep  red 
color  without  a  precipitate  being  formed. 
The  precipitate  is  immediately  formed 
by  adding  If  ounces  of  aqua  ammonia. 
Sometimes  it  happens  that  the  precip- 
itate does  not  entirely  settle  after  adding 
the  aqua  ammonia ;  in  this  case  the  ad- 
i  dition  of  a  few  drops  of  concentrated 
i  sulphuric  acid  will  suffice  to  bring  about 
1  the  desired  result.     The  fluid  must  then 
be  poured  off'  as  quickly  as  possible  and 
1  the  precipitate  washed  5  or  6  times  with 
fresh  water.     It  is  then  collected  upon 
a  filter,  allowed  to  drain  off  thoroughly, 
and  then,  while  still  moist,  placed  with 
a  silver  spatula  upon  an  opaque  glass 
plate  with  6  drachms  of  lead  glass,  pre- 
viously rubbed  fine.     The  mixture  is 
dried  upon  the  glass  plate,  upon  which 
the  gold-purple  has  been  rubbed  with 
the  lead  glass,  by  placing  it  in  a  room 
;  free  from  dust,  and,  when  dry,  is  mixed 
with  50  grains  of  carbonate  of  silver. 


GLASS.     COMPOSITION  OF,  ETC. 


141 


By  this  process  a  little  over  1  ounce  of 
pale  purple  should  be  obtained  with 
the  use  of  8  grains  of  gold. 

Pa  rple  (Rose-red}.  Dissolve  16  grains 
of  gold  in  aqua  regia  and  compound 
the  solution  with  a  solution  of  If  ounces 
of  alum  in  5  gallons  of  water.  Add  to 
this,  with  constant  stirring,  i  fluid 
drachm  of  solution  of  protochloride  of 
tin  of  1.7  specific  gravity,  and  then 
pour  aqua  ammonia  into  the  fluid  as 
long  as  a  precipitate  of  alumina  is 
formed.  When  the  precipitate  has  set- 
tled pour  the  fluid  off,  replace  it  with 
10  times  the  quantity  ot  water,  wash  the 
precipitate  with  this,  and  then  dry  it  at 
a  moderate  heat.  About  i  ounce  of 
dry  precipitate  will  be  obtained,  which 
is  mixed  with  40  grains  of  carbonate  of 
silver  and  2£  ounces  of  lead  glass,  pre- 
pared in  the  same  manner  as  given  under 
pale  purple,  and  the  mixture  triturated 
upon  a  glass  plate. 

The  gold  colors  here  mentioned  can 
only  be  fused  upon  porcelain  glaze,  as, 
when  subjected  to  a  higher  tempera- 
ture, the  gold  and  silver  are  separated 
in  metallic  form  and  assume  a  dirty 
brown  and  leather-like  appearance. 

Yellow  (Dark).  I.  Mix  intimately 
48  parts  of  minium,  16  of  sand,  18  of 
anhydrous  borax,  16  of  potassium  anti- 
moniate,  4  of  oxide  of  zinc,  and  5  of 
ferric  oxide.  Fuse  the  mixture  in  a 
Hessian  crucible  until  the  mass  is  en- 
tirely homogeneous,  when  it  must  imme- 
diately be  removed  or  the  color  will 
become  dirty  yellow. 

No.  II.  consists  of  20  parts  of  min- 
ium, 2i  of  wrhite  sand,  4i  of  potassium 
antimoniate,  1  of  ferric  oxide,  and  1  of 
oxide  of  zinc.  The  ingredients  are 
fused  in  a  Hessian  crucible  until  the 
mass  is  entirely  homogeneous. 

Yellow  (Lemon  Color).  Mix  inti- 
mately 8  parts  of  potassium  antimoniate, 
2i  of  oxide  of  zinc,  and  36  of  lead  glass. 
Heat  the  mixture  in  a  porcelain  cruci- 
ble until  it  forms  a  flux.  It  is  then 
taken  out  and,  when  cold,  rubbed  fine 
upon  a  glass  plate.  The  mass  must  not 
be  fused  longer  than  stated  or  the  color 
will  become  decomposed. 

Yellow  (Pale).  First  prepare  a  lead 
glass  by  fusing  together  8  parts  of  min- 
ium and  1  of  white  sand.  Pulverize 
and  dry  this.  The  color  is  then  pre- 
pared by  intimately  mixing  together  4 


parts  of  potassium  antimoniate,  1  of 
stannic  oxide,  and  36  of  the  above  lead 
glass.  The  mixture  is  fused  in  a  Hes- 
sian crucible  and  allowed  to  cool,  when 
it  is  comminuted  and  rubbed  fine. 

Yelloiv  ( Uranium).  Mix  1  part  of 
uranic  oxide  and  4  parts  of  lead  glass, 
prepared  by  fusing  together  8  parts  of 
minium  and  lofwhitesand.  Thiscoloris 
only  mixed  and  triturated  upon  a  stone. 

Yellowish-red.  Heat  anhydrous  sul- 
phate of  iron  by  placing  the  saucer  con- 
taining it  in  an  open  muffle  furnace. 
Stir  it  constantly  until  the  greatest  part 
of  the  sulphuric  acid  has  escaped.  Then 
take  it  out  and,  when  cool,  wash  the 
ferric  oxide  with  water  to  remove  all 
traces  of  undecomposed  salt,  and  then 
dry  it.  To  produce  a  fusible  color  mix 
7  parts  of  the  yellowish-red  ferric  oxide 
and  L'4  of  lead  glass,  produced  by  fusing 
together  12  parts  of  minium  and  1  of 
calcined  borax,  and  triturate  the  mixt- 
ure upon  a  glass  plate. 

Yellow  for  Figures  and  Landscapes. 
Add  to  the  dark  yellow  colors  I.  and 
II.  some  Naples  yellow,  which  is  pre- 

rred  by  placing  1  part  of  tartar  emetic, 
of  nitrate  of  lead,  and  4  of  decrep- 
itated common  salt  in  a  Hessian  cruci- 
ble and  subjecting  the  mixture  to  a  con- 
tinued strong  heat.  The  residue  is  com- 
minuted, washed,  dried,  and  rubbed  fine. 

Yellow  Jor  La ?? dscajjes.  Mix  8  parts 
of  Naples  yellow  and  6  of  lead  glass, 
prepared  by  fusing  together  2  parts  of 
minium,  1  of  white  sand,  1  of  calcined 
borax. 

}\'/u'te  (Covering).  Mix  and  fuse  in 
a  porcelain  crucible  1  part  of  minium, 
1  of  white  sand,  and  1  of  crystal li zed 
boracic  acid.  This  color  is  used  for 
marking  the  lightest  places  of  the  de- 
sign which  cannot  be  produced  by  leav- 
ing bare  the  porcelain,  and  also  for 
mixing — but  only  in  small  quantities — 
with  yellow  and  green  colors  to  make 
them  cover  better. 

GLASS.  COMPOSITION  OF  THE  VARI- 
OUS KINDS  OF,  COLORS  FOR,  AND 
PROCESSES  FOR  ENAMELLING,  EN- 
GRAVING, GILDING,  SILVERING, 
PULVERIZING,  FILING,  BENDING, 
ETC. 

Dark  Green  Bottle  Glass  is. prepared 
from  20  parts  of  Glauber's  salt,  18  of 


142 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


soap  ashes,  90  parts  of  lixiviated 
wood  ashes,  39  parts  of  glass  flown  into 
the  hearth,  179  of  broken  glass,  and  45 
of  basalt. 

Jdhkel's  Glass  for  Champagne  Bot- 
tles consists  of  100  parts  of  feldspar,  10 
of  lime,  74  of  common  salt,  and  63  of 
iron  slag. 

Elli's  Cryolite  Glass.  A  composition 
of  1  part  of  cryolite  and  2  to  4  parts  of 
pure  quartz  furnishes  a  beautiful  glass, 
which  can  be  easily  shaped  and 
ground. 

Bohemian  Crystal  Glass  (free  from 
lead)  is  composed  of  100  parts  of  sand, 
30  of  potash,  and  18  of  lime. 

Plate  Glass  of  the  Mirror  Manufac- 
tory at  A  ix  la  Chapel  le  consists  of  100 
parts  of  sand,  38  of  sulphate,  38  of  car- 
bonate of  lime,  2.5  of  charcoal,  and  0.5 
of  arsenious  acid. 

French  Mirror  Glass.  One  hundred 
parts  of  sand,  24  of  chalk,  33  of  soda 
or  38  of  sulphate,  2.5  to  2.75  of  pul- 
verized coke,  and  1  to  2  of  arsenious 
acid. 

Belgian  Window  Glass.  One  hun- 
dred parts  of  sand,  41  of  calcareous 
spar,  34  of  sulphate,  1.5  of  pulverized 
coke,  and  0.5  of  arsenious  acid. 

Bohemian  Window  Glass.  One  hun- 
dred parts  of  sand,  30  of  chalk,  24  of 
soda,  and  1  of  arsenious  acid. 

English  Window  Glass.  One  hun- 
dred parts  of  sand,  38  of  limestone,  28 
of  sulphate,  1.3  of  pulverized  coke,  and 
1  of  arsenious  acid. 

French  Window  Glass.  One  hun- 
dred parts  of  sand,  36  of  sulphate,  35 
of  chalk,  1.75  of  pulverized  coke  or  5 
of  charcoal,  and  1.25  of  arsenious  acid. 

Prussian  Window  Glass.  One  hun- 
dred parts  of  sand,  37  of  calcareous 
spar,  34  of  sulphate,  5  of  soda,  2.25  of 
pulverized  coke,  and  1  of  arsenious 
acid. 

Stein's  Receipts  for  Compositions  of 
Glass  as  actually  used  in  Various  Glass 
Works.  Potash  Crystal  Glass.  I.  One 
hundred  and  ten  pounds  of  quartz  or 
very  fine  and  pure  white  sand,  55  pounds 
of  potash,  4,Jr  ounces  of  arsenious  acid, 
and  16V  pounds  of  slaked  lime. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
quartz,  66  pounds  of  potash,  22  pounds 
of  slaked   lime,  8£  ounces  of  arsenious 
acid,  and  1  pound  of  saltpetre. 

III,  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 


quartz,  55  pounds  of  potash,  22  pounds 
of  chalk,  14  pounds  of  saltpetre,  14 
pounds  of  arsenious  acid,  and  f  ounce 
of  pyrolusite. 

IV.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
quartz,  374  pounds  of  purified  potash, 
164  pounds  of  slaked  lime,  and  5| 
ounces  of  pyrolusite. 

Bohemian  Mirror  Glass.  I.  One  hun- 
dred and  ten  pounds  of  quartz,  734 
pounds  of  purified  potash,  364  pounds 
of  marble,  74  pounds  of  saltpetre,  If 
pounds  of  arsenious  acid,  34  ounces  of 
pyrolusite,  and  }  ounce  of  smalt. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
quartz,  77  pounds  of  purified  potash,  22 
pounds  of  slaked  lime,  74  pounds  of 
saltpetre,  If  pounds  of  arsenious  acid, 
34  ounces  of  potash,  and  J  ounce  of 
smalt. 

Bohemian  Chalk  Glass  (Ground 
Glass,  White  Concave  Glass).  I.  One 
hundred  and  ten  pounds  of  white  sand, 
714  pounds  of  potash,  64  pounds  of 
burned  lime,  1  pound  of  arsenious  acid, 
and  of  ounces  of  pyrolusite. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
white  sand,  55  pounds  of  potash,  24J 
pounds  of  chalk,  IS  pounds  each  of 
saltpetre  and  pyrolusite,  and  44  ounces 
of  arsenious  acid. 

To  make  the  glass  produced  by  these 
compositions  easily  fusible,  add  to  each 
composition  2J  pounds  of  minium  and 
54  pounds  of  borax. 

Bohemian  Window  Glass.  One  hun- 
dred and  ten  pounds  of  white  sand,  46J 
pounds  of  potash,  and  19i  pounds  of 
limestone. 

French  Mirror  Glass.  One  hundred 
and  ten  pounds  of  white  sand,  364 
pounds  of  soda,  15|  pounds  of  slaked 
lime,  and  2J  ounces  of  pyrolusite. 

French  Soda  Glass.  I.  One  hundred 
and  ten  pounds  of  white  sand,  68| 
pounds  of  soda,  8i  pounds  of  carbonate 
of  lime,  44  ounces  of  pyrolusite,  34 
ounces  of  arsenious  acid. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
white  sand,   374  pounds  of   soda,   16 
pounds  of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  44 
ounces  of  pyrolusite. 

III.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
white  sand,   33  pounds  of  soda,   384 
pounds  of  chalk,  44  ounces  of  pyrolusite, 
and  34  ounces  of  arsenious  acid. 

IV.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
white  sand,  384  pounds  of  soda,  44 


GLASS.     COMPOSITION  OF,  ETC. 


143 


pounds  of  chalk,  4}  ounces  of  pyrolu- 
site,  and  3}  ounces  of  arsenious  acid. 

Composition  No.  I.  gives  a  soft  glass, 
No.  II.  a  hard,  and  No.  III.  a  very 
hard  glass. 

White  Soda  Windoiv  Glass.  I.  One 
hundred  and  ten  pounds  of  sand,  48} 
pounds  of  Glauber's  salt,  3}  pounds  of 
pulverized  wood  charcoal,  4}  pounds 
of  burned  lime. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  55  pounds  of  Glauber's  sait,  3} 
pounds  of  pulverized  charcoal,  and  22 
pounds  of  limestone. 

III.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  49i  pounds  of  Glauber's  salt,  3i 
pounds    of  pulverized    coke,  and    20 
pounds  of  limestone. 

IV.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  35i  pounds  of  Glauber's  salt,  2i 
pounds  of  coal,  and  49}  pounds  of  lime- 
stone. 

V.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  33  pounds  each  of  Glauber's  salt 
and  limestone,  and  3}  pounds  of  char- 
coal. 

VI.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  38i  pounds  of  Glauber's  salt,  6} 
pounds  of  soda,  33  pounds  of  limestone, 
and  3}  pounds  of  charcoal. 

Compositions  Nos.  V.  and  VI.  furnish 
window  glass  of  established  excellence. 

Semi-white  Potash  Window  Glass. 
I.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of  sand, 
126}  pounds  of  lixiviated  wood  ashes, 
36}  pounds  of  potash,  and  24i  pounds 
of  limestone. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  132  pounds  of  lixiviated    wood 
ashes,  38}  pounds  of  potash,  19}  pounds 
of  limestone,  and  4}  ounces  of  pyro- 
lusite. 

III.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
soda,  33  pounds  of  potash,  24i  pounds 
of  limestone,  and  16i  pounds  of  com- 
mon salt. 

All  the    compositions    for    window 

glass  given  above  may  also  be  used  for 
ollow  glassware. 

Bottle  Glass.  I.  One  hundred  and  ten 
pounds  of  sand,  22  pounds  of  Glauber's 
salt,  2i  pounds  of  coal,  49}  pounds  of 
basalt,  and  22  pounds  of  carbonate  of 
soda. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  176  pounds  of  wood  ashes,  and  55 
pounds  of  basalt. 

III.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of  '. 


sand,  27}  pounds  of  Glauber's  salt,  3£ 
pounds  of  coal,  37}  pounds  of  limestone, 
and  4}  pounds  of  basalt. 

The  last  two  compositions  furnish  a 
good  glass  for  champagne  bottles. 

Lead  Crystal  Glass.  I.  One  hun- 
dred and  ten  pounds  of  quartz,  73i 
pounds  of  minium,  and  36}  pounds  of 
purified  potash. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  Af 
sand,   66   pounds  of   minium,  and   22 
pounds  of  potash. 

III.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  49}  pounds  of  minium,  39}  pounds 
of  purified   potash,  and   1    pound  of 
arsenious  acid. 

IV.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  77  pounds  of  minium,  28}  pounds 
of  purified  potash,  5|  pounds  of  salt- 
petre, and  4}  pounds  of  borax. 

V.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,    46i    pounds    of    minium,    36£ 
pounds  of  purified  potash,  18i  pounds 
of  saltpetre,  and  }  pound  of  pyrolusite. 

It  is  advisable  to  add  broken  glass  to 
all  the  above  compositions. 

Crown  Glass  (according to  Bontemps). 
I.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
white  sand,  45!  pounds  of  purified  soda, 
24J  pounds  of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  1| 
pounds  of  arsenious  acid. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
white  sand,  33  pounds  of  potash,  18£ 
pounds  of  soda,  13f  pounds  of  chalk, 
and  13J  ounces  of  arsenious  acid. 

Crown  Glass  (according  to  Gui- 
naud).  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds 
of  white  sand,  44  pounds  of  American 
potash,  5}  pounds  of  minium,  5}  pounds 
of  borax,  and  4i  ounces  of  pyrolusite. 

Flint  Glass.  One  hundred  and  ten 
pounds  each  of  quartz  and  minium 
and  33  pounds  of  purified  soda. 

Flint  Glass  (according  to  Bontemp). 
I.  Two  hundred  and  eighty-seven  and 
one-quarter  pounds  of  sand,  a  like  quan- 
tity of  minium,  66  pounds  of  potash, 
and  20  pounds  of  borax. 

II.  Forty-seven  and  three-quarter 
pounds  of  sand,  a  like  quantity  of  oxide 
of  lead,  11  pounds  of  carbonate  of 
potash,  and  3i  pounds  of  saltpetre. 

Compositions  for  Strass  (acccording 
to  Donault-Wi  eland).  I.  Three  hun- 
dred parts  of  rock  crystal,  470  of  min- 
ium, 163  of  potash  purified  with  alco- 
hol, 22  of  borax,  aad  1  of  arsetuoujs 
acid. 


144 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


II.  Three    hundred    parts    of    rock 
crystal,  462  of  minium,  163  of  potash 
purified  with  alcohol,  18  of  borax,  and 
i  of  arsenious  acid. 

III.  Three    hundred    parts    of    the 
whitest  sand,  514  of  pure  white  lead, 
96  of  potash  purified  with  alcohol,  27 
of  borax,  and  1  of  arsenious  acid. 

IV.  One  hundred  parts  of  roek  crys- 
tal, a  like  quantity  of  minium,  66  of 
borax,  22  of  saltpetre,  and  5  of  arseni- 
ous acid. 

Compositions  for  Opaque  Glass. 
Tin  Enamel.  The  percentage  of  tin  in 
this  enamel  varies  very  much.  To 
obtain  the  oxide  of  tin,  either  equal 
parts  of  lead  and  tin  as  a  maximum 
are  fused  together,  or  a  smaller  quan- 
tity of  tin,  as  low  as  15  parts,  to  100  of 
lead.  Two  hundred  parts  of  this  mixt- 
ure of  oxides  are  combined  with  100 
parts  of  sand  and  80  of  pure  potash  to 
form  the  enamel. 

Arsenical  Enamel.  I.  One  hundred 
parts  of  sand,  16  of  potash,  6  of  lime, 
130  of  minium,  £  of  saltpetre,  and  10  of 
white  arsenic. 

II.  One  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of 
sand,  73i  pounds  of  minium,  36  V  pounds 
of  potash,  5i  to  10  pounds  of  saltpetre, 
li  to  4|  ounces  of  pyrolusite,  4V  pounds 
of  white  arsenic,   and   H  pounds    of 
teroxide  of  antimony. 

III.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand,  200 
of  minium,  60  of  potash,   and  30  of 
white  arsenic. 

Bone  Glass.  Take  an  ordinary  com- 
position for  potash,  soda,  or  lead  glass, 
and  add,  according  to  the  degree  of 
transparency  desired,  from  10  to  20  per 
cent,  of  bone-ash.  Besides  bone-ash, 
oxide  of  tin  or  arsenious  acid  is  added 
in  some  glass  works.  We  give  a  fe\v 
receipts : 

I.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand,  40  of 
potash,  25  to  30  of  oxide  of  tin,  12  of 
air-slaked  lime,  10  of  minium,  and  2  of 
arsenious  acid. 

II.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand,  45  of 
calcined  soda^  16  of  air-slaked  lime,  6  of 
bone-ash.,  and  3  of  arsenious  acid. 

III.  One    hundred    parts    of   sand, 
23  of  potash,  15  of  soda,  12  of  borax, 
30  of  bone-ash,   and    1£    of  arsenious 
acid. 

Opal  Glass.  This  differs  from  bone- 
glass  only  in  containing  a  smaller  per 
centage  of  bone-ash,  of  which  2  to  4  per 


cent,  only  are  added  to  a  suitable  white- 
glass  composition. 

Alabaster  Glass.  One  hundred  parts 
of  sand,  43  of  potash,  4A  of  saltpetre,  6 
of  bone-ash.  This  glass  must  be  fused 
at  as  low  a  temperature  as  possible. 

Compositions  for  Colored  Glass, 
The  basis  of  these  compositions  is  <ren- 
erally  lead  crystal,  or  potash  crystal- 
glass,  to  which  a  small  quantity  of 
oxide  of  lead  is  sometimes  added ;  al- 
though soda-glass  is  also  frequently 
colored.  But  the  composition  depends 
always  on  the  purpose  for  which  the 
colored  glass  is  to  be  used.  As  colored 
glass  is  mostly  worked  in  combination 
with  plain  glass,  its  basis  of  crystal  or 
soda-glass  must  be  constituted  in  accord- 
ance with  the  quality  of  the  glass  to  be 
combined  with  :t.  In  other  words  it 
must  be  as  hard,  or  as  soft,  in  fact  must 
possess  the  same  expansion  coefficient 
as  the  glass  with  which  it  is  to  be  com- 
bined, or  else  changes  of  temperature 
will  produce  cracks  and  separation  of 
the  layers. 

Aventurine  Glass  (according  to  Cle- 
m  an  dot).  Three  hundred  parts  of  pul- 
verized glass,  40  of  cuprous  oxide,  80  of 
iron  scales.  The  following  composition 
seems  to  us  more  suitable :  One  hundred 
parts  of  sand,  13  of  lime,  18  of  soda,  2 
of  minium,  3  of  oxide  of  tin,  6  of  iron 
scales,  and  6  of  copper  scales. 

Blue  Glass,  No.  I.  Fifty  parts  of 
sand,  16i  of  soda,  10  of  chalk,  and  5  of 
zaffre. 

No.  II.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand, 
150  of  minium.  35  of  potash,  10  of  borax, 
and  4  of  cobaltic  oxide. 

No.  III.  One  hundred  jmrts  of  sand, 
50  of  potash,  6  of  air-slaked  lime,  and 

1  of  cobaltic  oxide. 

8app!iire  Blue  is  obtained  by  adding 
from  i  to  3  per  cent,  of  cobaltic  oxide. 

Azure  Blue  is  produced  with  an  ad- 
dition of  1  per  cent,  of  cupric  oxide. 

Golden  Topaz  Glass  is  produced  by 
adding  i  per  cent,  of  uranic  oxide  to  a 
crystal-glass  composition. 

Green  G/aas,  No.  I.  Fifty  parts  of 
sand,  15  of  soda,  5  of  chalk,  1  of  salt- 
petre, 5  to  10  of  ferric  oxide,  and  3  to 
10  of  cupric  oxide. 

No.  II.  Thirty-seven  and  a  half  parts 
of  sand,  12.5  parts  of  soda,  6  of  chalk,  2 
of  saltpetre,  2  to  5  of  ferric  oxide,  and 

2  to  5  of  cupric  oxide, 


GLASS— COMPOSITION  OF,  ETC. 


145 


^To.  III.  Sixty  parts  of  sand,  20  of 
soda,  6  of  chalk,  1  of  saltpetre,  0.8  to  1 
part  of  chrome  green. 

No.  IV.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand, 
60  of  potash,  S  of  air-slaked  lime,  and 
2  of  chrome  green. 

No.  V.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand, 
85  of  minium,  38  of  potash,  4  of  oxide 
of  antimony,  and  2  of  cobaltic  oxide. 

Hyalite  "Glass,  No.  I.  One  hundred 
parts  of  sand,  66  of  potash,  8  of  air-slaked 
lime,  6  of  arsenious  acid,  5  of  cobaltic 
oxide,  5  of  pyrolusite,  and  5  of  ferric 
oxide. 

No.  II.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand, 
82  of  minium,  38  of  potash,  8  of  salt- 
petre, 4  of  cobaitic  oxide,  4  of  pyrolu- 
site, 6  of  iron  scales,  and  6  of  copper 
scales. 

Orange  Glass  is  obtained  by  adding 
2  per  cent,  of  ferric  oxide  and  §  per 
i?ent.  of  pyrolusite  to  the  composition 
jfbr  yellow  glass,  which  see. 

Red  Glass.  The  following  color  serves 
for  flashing  the  glass :  One  hundred 
parts  of  sand,  200  of  minium,  6  of  cop- 
per ashes,  and  6  of  tin  ashes. 

Red  with  Copper  is  produced  by  add- 
ing 1  per  cent,  of  cupric  oxide  and  1 
to  li  per  cent,  of  iron  scales  to  a  com- 
position of  white  or  crystal  glass.  We 
give  two  receipts : 

No.  I.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand, 
160  of  minium,  7  of  copper  scales,  and 
7  of  tin  ash. 

No.  II.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand, 
200  of  minium,  6  of  copper  ashes,  and 
6  of  tin  ashes. 

Red  with  Gold.  One  hundred  parts 
of  silica,  10  of  best  potash,  80  of  minium, 
and  12i  of  saltpetre.  Fuse  this  com- 
position, and  add  for  every  10  pounds 
of  the  composition  a  dollar  gold  piece 
dissolved  in  aqua  regia. 

Turquoise  Glass.  One  hundred  parts 
of  pulverized  quartz,  or  sand  free  from 
iron,  40  of  best  potash,  11  of  saltpetre, 
and  A  to  r,  of  cupric  oxide. 

Violet  Glass.  I.  Fifty-five  parts  of 
sand,  15  of  soda,  2  of  saltpetre,  5  of 
chalk,  10  of  pyrolusite,  and  2  of  ferric 
oxide. 

II.  Fifty-eight  parts  of  sand,  16£  of 
soda,  2  of  saltpetre,  10  of  chalk,  and  2 
to  10  of  pyrolusite. 

Yellow  Glass.    I.  Sixty -five  parts  of 
sand,  25  of  soda,  3  of  chalk,  1  of  alder- 
wood  charcoal. 
10 


II.  Fifty-five  parts  of  sand,  15  of 
soda,  5  of  chalk,  2  of  saltpetre,  16  of 
pyrolusite,  and  13  of  ferric  oxide. 

III.  One  hundred  parts  of  sand,  50 
of  potash,  8  of  air-slaked  lime,  6  to  10 
of  lead  antimoniate.     This  composition 
furnishes  the  yellow  used  for  Ehine 
wine  bottles. 

Neiv  Combination  of  Materials  for 
the  Production  of  Glass.  Seventeen 
parts  of  sand  or  silica,  4  of  sodium 
carbonate,  and  2  of  borax.  It  is  claimed 
that  the  glass  produced  from  this  com- 
position equals  flint  or  crystal  glass  in 
transparency,  clearness,  and  lustre,  and 
can  be  produced  at  half  the  cost. 

Iridescent  Glass,  The  moment 
when  the  glass  which  is  to  be  made 
iridescent  lias  been  given  the  highest 
degree  of  heat  the  following  mixture  is 
introduced  into  the  annealing  chamber 
through  an  aperture  :  One  part  of  car- 
bonate of  baryta,  i  part  of  strontium, 
and  2  of  tin  salt.  The  vapors  which 
are  developed  produce  the  lustre. 
Strontium  gives  red,  baryta  blue,  and 
tin  salt  various  colors. 

Engraving  on  Glass.  Grind  the  glass 
until  it  is  opaque  and  draw  the  design 
upon  it  with  a  mixture  of  anhydrous 
boracic  acid,  gum,  and  water.  When 
the  drawing  is  dry,  heat  the  glass  suffi- 
cient to  melt  the  boracic  acid.  The 
acid  gives  the  glass  its  original  trans- 
parency, and  the  design  is  fixed.  Col- 
ored designs  are  produced  by  adding 
different  metallic  oxides  to  the  boracic 
acid. 

Colored  Designs  upon  Glass.  Coat 
the  glass  with  shellac  varnish,  oil  of 
turpentine,  or  mucilage.  Cover  with 
the  pattern  and  dust  the  pulverized 
colors  over  the  cut  places  in  the  pat- 
tern. When  dry,  place  the  glass  in  a 
closed  muffle  to  burn  in  the  colors. 

Glass  Engraving.  Coat  the  glass 
with  wax  and  engrave  the  design  so 
that  it  shows  through.  Pour  2  parts  of 
sulphuric  acid  over  1  part  of  pulverized 
fluorspar  in  a  leaden  basin,  and  over  it 
plate  the  prepared  glass,  drawing  down. 
The  design  will  be  etched  into  the  glass 
in  about  an  hour  or  two.  The  wax  is 
removed  with  oil  of  turpentine. 

A  simpler  process  is  to  apply  an 
aqueous  solution  of  hydrofluoric  acid 
to  the  design  with  a  soft  brush.  By  re- 
peating this  operation  several  times 


146 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


the  design  or  scale  will  be  found  en- 
graved upon  the  glass.  [Etching  with 
the  aqueous  solution  is  much  inferior 
in  sharpness  and  opacity  to  that  done 
with  the  vapor.  WJ. 

To  Pulverize  Glass.  Heat  the  glass 
to  a  red  heat,  and  while  in  this  condi- 
tion plunge  it  into  cold  water;  then 
dry  and  pulverize  it.  It  becomes  more 
friable  by  the  sudden  cooling. 

To  Bend  Glass  Tubes.  If  a  sharp 
bend  is  required,  heat  only  a  small 
portion  of  the  tube  to  a  dull  red  heat, 
at  the  same  time  turning  it  in  the  flame, 
so  that  it  shall  be  softened  uniformly  all 
around,  and  bend  with  the  hand  held 
at  the  opposite  ends,  applying  pressure 
gradually.  If  the  bend  is  to  be  gradual, 
heat  an  inch  or  two  of  the  tube  before 
bending  it.  If  a  gradual  bend  on  the 
one  side  is  wanted  and  a  sharp  one  on 
the  other,  as  in  retorts,  a  little  manage- 
ment of  the  tube  in  the  flame,  moving 
it  to  the  right  and  left  alternately,  at 
the  same  time  turning  it  around,  will 
easily  form  it  into  the  desired  shape. 
In  bending  glass,  the  part  which  is  to 
be  concave  must  be  heated  most. 

An  ordinary  gas  flame  can  be  used 
for  bending  glass,  but  that  of  a  Bunsen 
burner  is  to  be  preferred. 

[If  the  tube  is  of  large  diameter  it 
will  be  impossible  to  get  sufficient  heat 
to  soften  it  enough  for  the  purpose, 
except  with  the  glass  blower's  lamp. 
To  avoid  the  "kinking"  of  the  bend  on 
the  inside,  which  will  contract  the 
area  of  the  tube  at  the  bend,  it  is  neces- 
sary with  large  tubes  to  fill  them  first 
with  sand,  closing  the  ends  with  corks. 
The  sand  will  give  the  necessary  sup- 
port to  the  walls  of  the  tube  in  bend- 
ing. 

The  secret  of  success  in  all  these 
manipulations  lies  chiefly  in  the  art  of 
heating  the  portion  of  the  tube  to  be 
bent  uniformly,  and  this  is  only  ac- 
complished by  keeping  the  tube,  while 
in  the  flame,  constantly  and  evenly 
turning.  W.] 


GLAZES  FOR  EARTHEN-WAKE. 

Glazing  for  Common  Earthen-ware. 
Water-glass  (potassium  or  sodium  sili- 
cate) of  35°  Beaume,  either  alone  or 
with  the  addition  of  20  per  cent,  of  red 


lead  and  5  per  cent,  of  silicic  acid,  is 
used.  The  thick  solution  is  laid  upon 
the  half-burned  ware  by  means  of  a 
brush.  It  is  also  used  for  glazing  crock- 
ery, being  quite  indestructible  when 
well  burned. 

English  Glaze  for  Earthen-ware.  The 
glaze  is  fixed  on  light  yellow  ware  of 
great  uniformity  and  porosity  and  of  a 
fire-proof  clay.  It  is  of  a  dark  violet- 
brown  color  and  somewhat  translucent, 
of  extraordinary  lustre  and  free  from 
flaws.  It  consists  of  28  parts  of  quartz 
sand,  40  of  silver  litharge,  18  of  pipe- 
clay, 9  of  best  manganese  oxide,  and  5 
of  chalk. 

In  order  to  produce  uniformity  and 
beauty  of  color  the  materials  are  fused 
into  a  frit  and  then  ground  finely.  .The 
burning  of  the  frit  can  be  easily  accom- 
plished in  a  potter's  oven  furnished 
with  a  cover. 

Glazes  free  from  Lead  for  Earthen- 
ware. Pulverize  a  mixture  of  4  parts 
of  calcined  soda  and  5  of  white  sand 
free  from  iron,  and  place  the  powder  in  a 
crucible  which  has  been  chalked  in  the 
inside  and  expose  it  to  the  full  heat  of  a 
potter's  oven,  where  it  is  melted  into  a 
spongy  glass,  which,  in  a  pulverized 
state,  is  used  for  glazing. 

The  following  mixtures  are  treated  in 
the  same  manner : 

I.  Thirty-two    parts    of  pulverized 
glass,  16  of  borax,  and  3  of  tartar. 

II.  Fifty  parts  of  soda  and  90  of  flint. 

III.  Eighty  parts  of  soda,  70  of  sand, 
and  10  of  clay. 

IV.  Three  parts  of  calcined  soda  and 
4  of  quartz  sand. 

New  Glazing  free  from  Lead  for 
Kitchen  Utensils. '  Melt  together  100 
parts  of  borax,  50  of  feldspar,  and  50 
of  clay.  The  hot,  fluid  mass  is  diluted 
with  water  until  it  has  a  temperature 
of  120°  F.,  when  the  previously  heated 
utensils  are  dipped  into  it  and  then 
burned  in  a  good  oven. 

Another  glaze,  which  is  very  solid 
and  resists  acids  almost  as  well  as  glass, 
consists  of  100  parts  of  powdered  quartz, 
80  of  purified  potash,  10  of  saltpetre, 
and  20  of  air-slaked  lime.  The  ingre- 
dients are  melted,  powdered,  mixed,  and 
heated. 

Very  Fine  Composition  for  White 
Glaze,  which  is  used  in  Feilmer's  man- 
ufactory in  Berlin,  is  obtained  by  mix- 


GLASS  AND  OTHER  SIGNS. 


147 


ing  36  parts  of  ash,  27  of  sand,  and  15 
of  salt,  and  ashing  over  with  20  parts 
of  lead  and  10  of  tin. 

White-Glazes.  I.  Mix  intimately  100 
parts  by  weight  of  white  glass,  50  of 
white  sand,  40  of  dry,  common  salt,  120 
of  plumbic  oxide,  and  60  of  tin  ashes. 

II.  One   hundred  parts  of  plumbic 
oxide,  50  of  tin  ashes,  100  of  white  sand, 
50  of  glass,  10  of  common  salt,  10  of 
heavy -spar,  and  5  to  10  of  dry  soda. 
This  is  more  fusible  than  No.  I.     Both 
mixtures  furnish  a  whiter  coating  the 
freer  the  clay  is  from  iron  with  which 
the  articles  are  manufactured. 

III.  Melt  together  24  to  25  parts  of 
red  lead,  15  to  16  of  tin  ashes,  36  to  &S 
of  quartz  sand,  12  to  14  of  potters'  clay 
free" from  iron,  7  of  carbonate  of  lime,  3 
of  carbonate  of  magnesia,  and  18  to  20 
of  calcined  soda.    The  mass,  when  cold, 
is  comminuted,  ground,  and  sifted. 

To  Give  Earthen-ware  or  Porcelain  a 
Marbled  or  Granite  Appearance.  Dis- 
solve gum  tragacanth  in  water  to  the 
consistency  of  a  thick  syrup,  which  will 
require  3  to  4  days,  and  add  about  1() 
times  its  bulk  in  water  to  reduce  its 
specific  gravity  to  1.003.  Now  prepare 
a  decoction  of  5  ounce  of  seeds  of  flea- 
bane  (Pttyllinm  pulicaria)  in  1  gallon 
of  water  and  mix  1  part  of  this  decoc- 
tion with  5  of  solution  of  gum  traga- 
canth.  On  account  of  the  high  specific 
gravity  of  the  coloring  substances  used 
in  the  process  it  becomes  necessary  to 
add  1  pound  of  very  thin  solution  of 
clay  in  water  to  each  pound  of  the 
mixture,  as  without  this  precaution  the 
pigments  would  not  float  on  the  surface 
of  the  preparation.  .  The  pigments — 
colors  used  under  glaze  are  mostly  em- 
ployed— are  triturated  with  water  and 
kept  in  special  pots  until  used,  when 
they  are  mixed  with  beef  gall.  To  pre- 
vent the  beef  gall  from  spoiling  some 
carbolic  acid  is  added.  Now  spatter  by 
means  of  a  brush  the  different  colors 
mixed  with  beef  gall  upon  the  surface 
of  the  mixture  of  the  gum  tragacanth, 
decoction  of  fleabane  seed,  and  solution 
of  clay.  Marbled  veins  will  immedi- 
ately be  formed,  which  can  be  worked 
into  imitation  of  any  desired  variety  of 
marble  by  stirring  the  mass  with  a 
horse  comb  or  similar  instrument.  The 
articles,  which  should  be  rather  porous, 
are  dipped  into  this  solution,  then 


washed  to  remove  the  shiny  prepara-> 
tion,  heated  in  a  muffle,  glazed,  and 
treated  like  common  ware.  Any  vari« 
ety  of  decoration  can  be  prepared  by 
painting  parts  on  the  surface  of  the  arti- 
cles with  round  lake  or  white  lead 
mixed  with  gum  Arabic,  marbling  the 
unpainted  spots,  and  washing  of  the  re- 
served places  ;  or  by  impressing  copper 
prints,  covering  them  with  round  lake, 
and  marbling.  If  glazed  articles  are  to 
be  marbled  pigments  rubbed  with  oil 
are  used.  The  article  must  first  be 
coated  with  dammar  resin  dissolved  in 
oil  of  turpentine  ( 1J  ounces  of  resin  dis- 
solved in  1  pound  of  oil  of  turpentine). 
After  the^ coating  is  perfectly  dry  the 
article  is  treated  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  unglazed.  With  skill  in  the  man- 
ipulation very  beautiful  articles  can  be 
prepared  by  this  process. 


GLASS  AND  OTHER  SlGNS. 

The  following  directions  for  making 
glass  signs  are  by  W.  Arrenbrecht : 

I.  To    Etch     Gl«xs    (Fine-grained). 
Paint  the  entire  glass,  except  the  parts 
to  be  etched,  with  asphaltum  or,  best, 
with  ordinary  iron  lacquer  which  covers 
well,  and  allow  it  to  dry,  but  not  en- 
tirely hard,  as  otherwise  the  acid  is  apt 
to  find  its  way  under  the  iron  lacquer. 
Place  a  rim  of  putty,  prepared  with 
wax  and  starch,  around  the  design,  care 
being  had  that  it  laps  over  upon  the 
iron  lacquer.     Then  pour  hydrofluoric 
acid  upon  the  surface,  let  it  stand  for 
5  minutes,  pour  it  back  into  the  flask, 
and  wash  the  entire  surface  with  water. 
Then  remove  the  asphaltum  with  oil 
of  turpentine  and  wash  again  with  white 
soap  and  water. 

II.  To  Etch  Glass  (Coarse-grained). 
Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  above, 
but  throw  emery  into  the  acid  immedir 
ately  after  it  has  been  poured  upon  the 
surface;   let  it  remain  for  5  minutes, 
then  pour  it  back  into  the  flask  and 
wash  and  cleanse  as  above. 

III.  Gilding  Glass.     Polish  the  glass 
thoroughly  with  whiting  and  then  with 
a  linen'rag  dipped  in  alcohol.     Prepare 
a  size  by  boiling  2  ounces  of  isinglass 
in  sufficient  water  to  cover  it,  and,  when 
dissolved,  add  1  quart  of  alcohol,  and 
then  dilute  to  2  quarts  with  water,  and 


148 


TECHtfO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


filter.  Flood  the  surface  to  be  gilded 
with  the  size,  lay  the  gold  leaf  flat  on 
it,  and  scatter  elutriated  chalk  (whit- 
ing) previously  warmed  over  the  whole. 
Should  the  chalk  form  lumps  in  heat' 
ing,  rub  it  fine,  but  the  dusting  over 
with  chalk  must  be  delayed  until  the 
gold  leaf  is  dry.  When  the  gold  leaf 
is  entirely  dry  dust  it  off  with  a  fine 
brush  and  then  polish  it  with  a  piece 
of  silk  velvet.  Kepeat  the  gilding  once 
more,  and  then  back  all  the  gold  which 
is  to  remain  with  copal  or  dammar  lac- 
quer. When  this  is  dry  remove  the 
superfluous  gold  by  rubbing  with  the 
moistened  finger. 

IV.  Silvering  on  Glass  is  dojiein  the 
same  manner  as  gilding,  but  somewhat 
more  isinglass  is  used,  as  the  silver  leaf 
being  softer  than  gold  leaf  requires  a 
stronger  agglutinant, 

V.  Gilding  on  Shoip  Windows.     The 
same  solution  of  isinglass  given  under 
III.  is  used.     Cover  the  surface  to  be 
gilded  with  the  mixture  and  lay  on  the 
gold  obliquely.    When  dry,  polish  the 
gold  with  a  rag  of  silk  velvet  and  re- 
peat the  operation. 

VI.  Correcting  the  Isinglass  Mixture. 
If,  after  the  second   polishing,  stains 
should  make  their  appearance  in  the 
gold,  the  solution  contains  too   much 
isinglass  and  must  be  diluted  by  adding 
distilled   water  and   rectified  alcohol. 
But  if  the  gold  cannot  be  polished  the 
mixture  contains  too  little  isinglass.    It 
is  therefore  advisable  to  first  test  the 
solution  upon  a  piece  of  glass. 

VII.  Sacking  the  Inscription  on  Show 
Windows.    After  rubbing  off"  the  super- 
fluous gold  with  the  finger  apply  to  the 
entire  inscription  a  coat  of  good  oil 
paint  mixed  with  some  hemp  oil  and 
English  carriage  lacquer,  which  will  I 
preserve    the    inscription    even    upon 
panes  covered  with  sweat,  and  its  dura- 
bility can  be  guaranteed  for  years. 

VIII.  Hacking  Glass  Signs  without 
Shades.     After   rubbing  off  carefully 
the  superfluous   gold  with   the   finger 
apply  2  coats  of  Frankfort  black  rubbed 
up  in  oil  to  the  entire  back  of  the  glass 
and  inscription. 

IX.  Hacking  Glass  Signs  with  Shades. 
Apply  2  coats  of  the  same  black,  but 
leave  the  shades  free.     When  the  black 
is  dry,  paint  the  places  left  for  the  shades 
with  red,  green,  blue,  etc.,  oil  paint. 


X.  With  Mother-of-pearl  Insertions, 
Gild  in  the  manner  given  above.    When 
the  gold  is  dry,  coat  only  the  outlines 
of  the  inscription  with  copal  or  dammar 
lacquer.     After  carefully  removing  the 
superfluous  gold  apply  2  coats  of  the 
mentioned  black  oil  paint,  leaving  free 
the  inner  part  of  the  inscription,  etc., 
for  the  mother-of-pearl.     If  the  inscrip- 
tion is  to  be  shaded  proceed  in  the  same 
manner  as  given  \\nder  IX. 

XI.  Mother-of-pearl  Insertions.  Very 
thin  laminae  of  mother-of-pearl  of  differ- 
ent colors  are  used.     Select  suitable 
pieces,  and,  if  too  large,  break  them  in 
two.     Then   coat  first  the  places  left 
free  in   the  inscription  with   dammar 
lacquer,  and  then  one  side  of  each  of  the 
pieces  of  mother-of-pearl ;  lay  them  on 
the  inscription  and   press  them  gently 
down  with  the  handle  of  the  brush, 
continuing  thus  until  the  entire  surface 
is  covered.     Do  not  place  the  pieces 
close  together,  but  leave  small  inter- 
stices between  them,  which  are  after- 
ward filled  up  with  lacquer  and  pul- 
verized   oyster  shells  or  other  shells 
dusted  in. 

XII.  .Backing  with  Tinfoil  is  done 
in  the  same  manner  as  with  mother-of- 
pearl,  except  that  the  oil  paint  is  not 
allowed  to  dry  entirely,  but  to  remain 
just  sticky  enough  to  fasten  the  tin- 
foil  by  a  gentle  pressure,  care  being 
had  to  place  the  glossy  side  of  the  tin- 
foil upon  the  glass. 

Transparent  Glass  Sign  (Child's 
American  Patent).  Coat  a  glass  plate 
with  paint  so  that  the  places  to  be 
transparent  remain  free.  Back  this 
glass  plate  with  a  second,  and  fill  the 
space  between  them  with  pieces  of  col- 
ored glass  of  irregular  si/es.  By  illu- 
minating the  sign  from  the  back  a 
wonderful  effect  is  produced.  Further, 
the  filling  of  such  a  sign  could  be  set  in 
motion  by  a  suitable  apparatus,  thus 
producing  a  kaleidoscopic  effect. 

Sign  Painting.  It  may  be  laid  down 
as  a  general  rule  for  all  Roman  capitals, 
except  I,  J,  M,  and  W,  that  the  extreme 
breadth  should  equal  the  height;  the 
breadth  of  I  and  J  is  equal  to  half  the 
height,  and  that  of  M  and  W  to  1} 
times  the  height.  Gilt  letters  are  writ- 
ten with  Japan  size,  a  substance  which 
soon  acquires  such  a  state,  between 
dryness  and  wetness,  that  leaf  gold  laid 


GLUE,  MANUFACTURE  OF. 


on  it  adheres  perfectly.  The  gold  leaf 
should  be  gently  dabbed  over  with  a 
pad  of  cotton  wool,  which  will  smooth 
the  surfaces  of  the  gilding  and  remove 
all  superfluous  pieces  of  gold  leaf. 

J«pmi  Gold  Size.  Boil  2^  gallons 
of  linseed  oil  for  2  hours,  then  add 
gradually  and  in  small  portions  at  a 
time  1-i  pounds  each  of  litharge  and  min- 
ium and  9i  of  sulphate  of  iron,  keeping 
the  oil  boiling  all  the  time  and  stirring 
from  the  bottom  of  the  pot.  It  is  ad- 
visable to  have  a  large  iron  ladle  ready 
to  cool  the  mass  down,  if  it  should  ap- 
pear to  rise  too  high,  by  ladling  a  part 
of  it  into  an  empty  pot.  After  boiling 
the  oil  for  about  3  hours  melt  2i  pounds 
of  gum  an ime  and  heat  i  gallon  of  raw 
linseed  oil.  When  the  gum  is  melted 
pour  in  the  oil;  let  it  boil  until  clear, 
then  cool  for  a  few  minutes  and  add  it 
to  the  first  oil.  Wash  out  the  pot  in 
which  the  gum  has  been  melted  and 
melt  2}  pounds  more  of  gum  anime  and 
heat  -V  gallon  more  of  oil  in  the  same 
manner  as  before  and  add  that  also  to 
first  oil.  Now  urge  the  fire  in  the  fur- 
nace, but  keep  it  well  in  front,  so  that 
it  can  be  drawn  at  a  moment's  warning. 
The  gold  size  will  soon  throw  up  a 
frothy  scum  on  the  surface,  which  must 
be  constantly  kept  down  by  stirring 
with  the  ladle,  and  never  be  allowed 
to  rise  higher  than  4  inches  below  the 
edge  of  the  pot.  After  boiling  for  about 
5  hours  it  will  commence  to  become 
stringy,  but  boiling  must  be  continued 
until  it  hangs  to  the  ladle  and  drops  in 
lumps.  Now  take  the  size  from  the  fire 
and  cool  it  as  quickly  as  possible,  and 
when  cool  enough  mix  it  with  8  gallons 
of  turpentine,  but  do  not  stir  until  all 
the  turpentine  is  in  and  the  froth  on  the 
surface  has  disappeared,  and  then  strain 
as  quickly  as  possible. 

GLUE,  MANUFACTURE  OF. 

Glue,  as  is  well  known,  is  manu- 
factured from  the  parings  of  skins  and 
hides  steeped  in  lime-water.  The  waste 
of  calf  and  sheepskins  gives  the  best 
glue  ;  that  from  horse-hides  is  dark  and 
of  a  poor  quality.  In  buying  the  waste, 
it  frequently  occurs  that  particles  of 
flesh  are  mixed  with  them.  This  is  not 
actually  injurious,  as  in  manufacturing 
the  glue  they  are  regained  as  fat. 


The  materials  from  which  glue  is 
boiled  are  called  "  glue  stock,'*  and  con- 
sist of: 

a.  Waste  of  tanneries,  yielding   as 
much  as  44  to  4(5  per  cent,  of  glue; 

b.  Waste  obtained  in  preparing  the 
skins  of  sheep,  goats,  and  kids ; 

c.  The  scarf-skin  of  bullocks'   hides 
and  waste  in  fleshing  the  hide,  giving 
about  30  per  cent,  of  glue; 

d.  Waste    of   Buenos  Ayres  skins, 
yielding  50  to  60  per  cent,  of  glue ; 

e.  The  tendons,  buttock  pieces,  and 
generative  organs  of  cattle  with  35  per 
cent,  of  glue ; 

/.  Horse  sinews  with  15  to  18  per 
cent,  of  glue; 

g.  Old  gloves,  rabbit  skins  from 
which  the  hair  has  been  removed  by 
hatters,  also  dog  and  cat  skins; 

h.  Bullocks'  feet  and  parchment 
shavings  with  62  per  cent,  of  glue; 

i.  Waste  of  tanneries,  as  foot,  head, 
and  buttock  pieces,  which  tanners  cut 
off  before  tanning,  ear-laps  of  sheep  and 
cows,  sheeps'  feet  with  the  tendons, 
small  bones  and  waste  of  skins.  Good 
material  of  this  kind  yields  38  to  42  per 
cent,  of  glue ; 

k.  Skins  unfit  for  tanning,  or  such 
as  have  been  used  for  packing  purposes ; 
for  instance  those  in  which  indigo  is 
brought  from  South  America.  This 
stock  yields  from  50  to  55  per  cent,  of 
glue ; 

I,  Cartilages  and  other  waste  offish. 

The  yield  of  glue  from  waste,  as  will 
be  seen  from  the  above,  varies  very 
much.  From  500  pounds  of  good  ma- 
terial, 250  pounds  of  glue  may  be  ob- 
tained, while  650  to  1200  pounds  of  poor 
stock  may  be  required  for  the  same 
quantity. 

Steeping  the  Stock  in  Lime.  The  glue 
stock  is  generally  steeped  in  lime-water 
in  order  to  preserve  it,  but  before  boil- 
ing it  into  glue  it  must  be  again  steeped, 
and  this  becomes  especially  necessary 
when,  after  being  washed  in  pure  water, 
the  waste  assumes  a  bluish  color  and 
becomes  very  soft.  This  is  a  sure  sign 
that  it  contains  too  little  lime,  and  it 
must  then  remain  for  a  few  days  in  thin 
lime-water,  when  it  is  dried.  "The  best 
manner  of  doing  this  is  as  follows: 
Steep  the  waste  in  clear  water  for  24 
hours,  then  place  it  in  a  basket  to  drain 
off  the  water ;  after  draining  steep  it  for 


150 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


several  days  in  thin  lime  and  replace  it 
in  the  basket  to  drain,  and  wash  off  with 
clean  water  and  dry.  This  steeping  in 
lime-water  is  of  the  utmost  importance, 
as  the  quality  of  tiie  glue  is  mainly  de- 
pendent upon  it.  Too  much  steeping 
yields  a  small  quantity  of  glue,  but  of 
an  excellent  quality,  while  that  ob- 
tained from  glue  stock  steeped  only  for 
a  short  time  is  dark. 

It  is  best  to  store  fresh  or  undried 
glue  stock  during  the  winter  in  wooden 
or  brick  vats  containing  dilute  lime- 
water,  well  stirred  when  putting  in  the 
waste. 

The  glue  boiling,  which  is  best  done 
in  the  open  air,  is  commenced  in  spring, 
as  soon  as  the  weather  permits.  This  can 
be  done  with  wet  and  with  dry  waste. 

Boiling  with  wet  waste  is  done  by 
covering  glue  stock  in  a  vat  with  water 
and  allowing  it  to  soak  for  12  hours,  then 
drained,  and  all  signs  of  lime  washed  off. 
It  is  then  piled  in  heaps  and  exposed 
to  the  air  for  12  to  24  hours  to  evaporate 
the  acrid  constituents.  It  is  now  boiled, 
the  work  being  commenced  as  early  in 
the  morning  as  possible. 


be  sufficiently  steeped  in  lime,  washed, 
and  dried. 

The  actual  boiling  is  done  in  a  copper 
or  iron  boiler  (Fig.  13),  which,  if  250 
pounds  of  glue  are  to  be  manufactured, 
should  be  large  enough  to  hold  at  least 
275  gallons  of  water.  It  should  be 
somewhat  shallower  than  its  width,  and 
should  have  a  double  bottom  bent  in- 
wards in  order  to  offer  greater  resistance 
to  the  fire.  It  should  be  further  pro- 
vided with  a  discharge  pipe  and  cock, 
through  which  the  fluid  glue  is  drawn 
off.  Upon  the  bottom  of  the  boiler 
is  a  perforated  bottom  of  sheet  iron 
or  copper,  to  prevent  the  waste  from 
lying  immediately  upon  the  bottom, 
and  burning. 

It  is  an  easy  matter  to  procure  all 
the  warm  water  which  may  be  required 
by  utilizing  the  waste  heat  for  heating 
water  in  a  reservoir  erected  in  the  direc- 
tion in  which  the  gases  of  combustion 
escape.  It  is  placed  higher  than  the 
boiler  so  that  the  warm  water  can  be 
readily  drawn  from  it  into  the  latter 
(see  Fig.  13). 

When  everything  is  in  proper  shape, 


Fig.  13. 


For  boiling  with  dry  waste  nothing  I  the  bones,   sinews,  and  other  constit- 
farther  is  required  than  that  it  should  |  uents  are  placed  in  the  boiler,  and  on 


GLUE,  MANUFACTURE  OF. 


151 


the  top  of  this  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
waste  to  fill  the  boiler.  If  this  holds 
275  gallons,  about  125  gallons  of  clean 
water  are  added,  if  wet  material  is  used, 
and  about  225  gallons  to  dry  stock. 
The  mass  is  now  boiled  until  a  sample 
taken  from  the  boiler  cools  to  a  jelly. 
This,  for  wet  material,  requires  gener- 
ally 1  hour;  for  dry  stock,  2  hours.  The 
glue  will  be  ready  for  cutting  when  a 
sample,  poured  into  a  cup,  can  be  con- 
veniently taken  out  when  cold.  The 
fluid  is  then  drawn  off  into  the  cooling 
vat  (clarifying  vat).  This  is  also  pro- 
vided with  a  discharge  pipe  and  cock 
and  placed  high  enough  to  allow  of  a 
bucket  being  conveniently  put  under 
it.  When  the  glue  has  become  clear 
it  is  drawn  off  and  poured  into  boxes 
(moulds). 

A  fresh  quantity  of  waste  is  added  to 
the  material  remaining  in  the  boiler, 
and  boiled.  This  is  called  the  second 
boiling,  and  is  treated  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  first. 

The  residue  remaining  in  the  boiler 
after  the  second  boiling  is  boiled  until 
the  fluid  forms  glue.  This  is  called  the 
third  boiling.  The  product  is  treated  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  foregoing. 

The  residue  from  the  third  boiling  is 
used  for  preparing  the  so-called  glue- 
water.  This  is  made  by  pouring  in 
enough  water  to  cover  the  residue  in  the 
boiler  from  2}  to  3}  inches  deep,  and 
boiling  about  2  hours,  until  all  glutinous 
substances  have  been  dissolved.  This 
fluid  is  too  weak  to  form  glue.  It  is 
added  to  the  next  boiling  of  glue  stock, 
to  accelerate  the  process. 

Clarifying  the  Glue.  This  is  done 
either  with  alum  or  white  of  egg. 
Pulverize  2£  to  4i  pounds  of  alum  for 
every  200  pounds  of  glue,  and  dissolve 
it  in  50  pounds  of  boiling  glue  taken 
from  the  boiler.  Add  this  solution  to 
the  mass  in  the  boiler,  and  let  the 
whole  boil  for  10  minutes  longer, 
when  the  clarified  glue  is  drawn  off  into 
the  cooling  vat.  The  glue  may  also  be 
clarified  by  dissolving  for  every  100 
pounds  of  glue  f  pound  of  purified 
borax  finely  powdered  and  3  ounces  of 
purified  potash  in  boiling  glue,  and 
pouring  this  into  the  fluid  in  the  boiler. 

To  Color  the  Glue  Yellow.  For  every 
100  pounds  of  glue  to  be  colored  dis- 
solve 1  to  2  pounds  of  finely-powdered  i 


crystallized  soda  in  boiling  glue,  and 
stir  this  into  fhe  boiler  until  a  uniform 
yellow  color  is  obtained. 

To  Whiten  the  Glue.  For  every  100 
pounds  of  glue  add  2  pounds  of  sugar 
of  lead  completely  dissolved  in  a  hot 
solution  of  glue.  Mix  it  thoroughly 
with  the  glue  in  the  boiler,  and  then 
add  2  pounds  of  pulverized  white 
vitriol  (sulphate  of  zinc)  also  dissolved 
in  boiling  glue. 

Pouring  into  the  Boxes  (Moulds). 
This  is  done  as  soon  as  the  glue  has 


A     A 

Fig.  14. 

been    boiled,  sufficiently  cooled,  and 
clarified.    The  boxes  (Figs.  14, 15)  are 


J L 


Fig.  15. 

made  of  pine,  and  are  generally  4  feet 
long,  84  inches  wide,  and  6  inches  high. 
They  should  be  very  smooth  inside  and 
water-tight.  Before  the  glue  is  poured 
into  them  they  should  be  kept  filled 
for  1  day  with  fresh  milk  of  lime.  This 
is  called  freshening  the  boxes.  In  the 
spring  the  boxes  should  be  given  a  coat 
of  pure  linseed  oil,  which  will  facili- 
tate the  removal  of  the  congealed  glue. 
The  operation  of  pouring  the  glue 
into  the  moulds  is  a  very  simple  one :  A 
funnel  (Fig.  16)  with  a  flat  bottom 
reaching  over  the  edges  of  the  mould 
sits  so  firmly  upon  them  as  to  need  no 
support  from  the  workman.  In  the 
funnel  is  a  small  sieve  (Fig.  17)  of 
horsehair,  which  keeps  back  any  im- 
purities in  the  glue.  When  the  first 


152 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Fig.  16. 


mould  is  filled 
place  the  funne] 
upon  the  next,  and 
so  on  until  the  vat 
is  empty. 

Taking  the  Glue 
I  from  the  Moulds. 
Twelve  hours  are 
generally  required 
for  the  glue  to  con- 


geal, but  in  warm  weather  24  hours 

may  be  necessary.    In  taking  the  mass 

from    the  mould  dip 

the  blade  of  a  large 

knife  (Fig.  18)  in  cold 

water,    and    with    it 

loosen  the  glue  from 

the  sides  of  the  box, 

which  must  be  done 

skilfully  and  quickly. 

The    box    is    then         ,-,.      ,_ 

emptied  on    a    table         *1S<  17< 

and  the  glue  quickly  cut  into  pieces  of 

desired  shape  and  thickness  with  a 
copper  knife  dipped  in  water. 
When  a  few  cuts  have  been 
made  the  knife  is  again  dipped 
in  water,  in  order  to  give  to  the 
pieces  a  smooth  surface  and  pre- 
vent them  from  becoming  full 
of  cracks.  The  hand  is  now 


Ruthatfs  New  Process   of    Making 
Glue  from  Waste  of  Hides  and  £ki»s 


Fig.  19  a. 

in  Tanneries.     The  waste  is  placed  in 
water  until  it  begins  to  smell,  and  then 


Fig.  20. 
washed  in  running  water.    Two  and  a 


_.    half  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  of  1.035 

dipped  into  water,  and  the  pieces  !  specific  gravity  to  every  11.2  parts  of 
of  glue  laid  upon  hurdles  strung    the  waste,  while  it  is  still  moist,  are 

-.1-^  +  Vt      ^^,^.1       «i_~,'l -L_ 1       /T*» 


Fig. 
18. 


with  cord  similar  to  a  net  (Figs. 
19,  19  a)  which  are  then  carried 
into  the  drying-room  and  placed 
upon  frames  providedwith  strips 


then  poured  over  it,  and  it  is  allowed 
to  stand  in  a  covered  vessel  for  24  hours. 
The  acid  is  then  poured  off,  the  waste 
washed  in  clean  water,  and  the  same 


set  2|  to  3  inches  apart  (Fig.  '  amount  of  sulphuric  acid  to  the  same 
20).  In  the  course  of  a  few  quantity  of  waste  again  poured  over  it. 
hours  the  glue  upon  the  hurdle  j  After  allowing  it  to  stand  quietly  for 

_j      Ti   !     Al-  -  ""  to    '  '"  *     *   ' 


is  turned.     It  is  then  allowed  to  dry    some  time,  it  is  thoroughly  washed  to 
gradually,  and    when    nearly   dry  is    remove  all  traces  of  acid,  pressed  out, 

and  placed  in  a  vat  of  such  capacity 
that  it  will  be  filled  about  §  by  it.  The 
vat  is  then  filled  with  water  of  110°  F., 
covered,  and  the  mass  allowed  to  stand 
quietly  for  24  hours.  The  liquid  is 
then  drawn  off,  and,  on  cooling,  con- 
geals to  a  colorless  gelatine.  Water  of 
a  higher  temperature  is  poured  upon 
the  residue  in  the  vat.  After  24  hours 
this  fluid  is  drawn  off  and  allowed  to 
congeal  to  gelatine,  and  the  process  is 
repeated  until  everything  has  been  dis- 
solved. This  gelatine  can  be  kept  for 
a  long  time  in  well-closed  jars. 

G/ue  from  Waste  of  Tanned  Leather. 


Fig.  19. 


strungupon  cord  by  means  of  a  needle, 
and  dried  completely  in  the  air,  and 
is  then  ready  for  the  market. 


Place  the  waste  in  soda  lye  of  1.025 


GLUE,  MANUFACTURE  OF. 


153 


specific  gravity  for  6  to  12  hours,  and 
tiien  press  out.  To  extract  all  the  tan- 
nin, which  is  absolutely  necessary  tor 
the  gaining  of  glue,  the  waste  must  l>e 
again  treated  with  soda  lye.  It  is  tlien 
thoroughly  washed,  placed  in  dilute 
acid  for  24  hours;  then,  to  neutralize 
tie  acid,  in  a  weak  solution  of  soda, 
a«id  finally  thoroughly  washed  with 
water,  when  it  is  ready  to  be  worked 
into  glue  in  the  ordinary  manner. 

Muclayan's  Apparatus  and  Process 
for  Manufacturing  Glue  and  Gelatine. 
The  apparatus  is  intended  for  the  ex- 
traction of  gelatine  from  bones  by  the 
aid  of  steam.  Fig.  21  represents  a  side 


and  in  the  evaporating  pan  e  to  the 
boiling  point;  in  cocks  for  the  escape 
of  condensed  steam;  and  n  a  crank 
which  moves  a  driving  gear  catching 
into  a  wheel,  by  which  the  extracting 
pan  is  revolved. 

Extracting  the  Gelatine.  First 
Operation.  The  bones  are  brought  in 
contact  with  lime  in  order  to  free  them 
from  all  fleshy  parts.  They  are  then 
thrown  into  the  box  </,  to  extract  the  fat, 
which  is  done  by  boiling  them  by  the 
introduction  of  steam  through  the  pipes 
b  and  c  into  the  serpentine  pipe  /.  'Ih-e 
fat  swimming  on  the  top  is  skimmed  off. 
The  bones  are  then  taken  from  d  and 


Fig.  21. 

view  of  the  apparatus,  and  Fig.  22  the  |  placed  in  the  extracting  vessel/,  which 
ground-plan ;  a  is  the  steam-boiler;  b  a  [  is  carefully  luted,  and  steam  at  a  press- 
pipe  conducting  the  steam  to  all  parts,  I  ure  of  §  atmosphere  then  introduced. 


I       ¥ 


Fig.  22. 


of  the  apparatus;  c  pipes  conducting 
the  steam  to  the  box  d,  serving  for  ex- 
tracting the  fat  from  the  bones,  then  to 
the  evaporating  pan  e,  and  finally  to  the 
extracting  pan ;  /,  g  are  cocks  for  regu- 
lating the  introduction  of  steam ;  h  a 
pedestal  upon  which  the  extracting  pan 
can  be  revolved ;  i  are  valves  for  the 
escape  of  steam ;  k  cocks  through  which 
the  steam  leaves  the  extracting  vessel ; 
another  cock  is  placed  beneath  the  ex- 
tracting vessel,  through  which  the 
liquid  gelatine  is  drawn  off;  /  are 
serpentine  pipes  through  which  steam 
passes  to  bring  the  fluids  in  the  box  d 


After  exposing  the  bones  to  the  action 
of  the  steam  for  2  hours  the  gelatin^  is 
drawn  off  through  the  cock  on  the  bottom 
of  the  extracting  pan,  and  after  filtering, 
is  brought  into  the  evaporating  pan  e. 

Second  Operation.  Some  of  the  fluid 
in  the  box  d  is  brought  into  the  extract^ 
ing  pan  /,  steam  is-  again  introduced, 
and  after  3  hours  the  gelatine  is  drawn 
off,  filtered,  and  added  to  the  first. 

Third  Operation.  All  the  gelatine 
obtained  having  been  brought  into  the 
evaporating  pan  e,  it  is  evaporated  to 
the  proper  consistency  and  then  treated 
in.  the  same  manner  as  glue, 


154 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


To  M<ike  Gelatine  from  Glue.  Soak 
6  pounds  of  good  glue  for  2  days  in  1£ 
gallons  of  strong  vinegar,  with  1  ounce 
of  which  saturate  40  to  45  grains  of  po- 
tassium carbonate.  Then  pour  off  the 
vinegar  and  place  the  glue  in  a  sieve 
suspended  in  a  vat  of  cold  water,  and 
allow  it  to  remain  12  hours  to  remove 
the  acetates  adhering  to  the  glue,  which 
is  now  clear  as  glass,  with  a  yellow  tint. 
Glue  thus  prepared  gives,  when  poured 
upon  glass  plates,  white  sheets  of  gela- 
tine. They  are  somewhat  more  brittle 
than  those  obtained  from  bone  glue,  but 
this  difficulty  is  overcome  by  adding 
more  or  less  glycerine,  according  to  the 
season  of  the  year.  In  this  manner 
gelatine  can  be  produced  which  binds 
better  than  that  obtained  from  bones, 
and  at  less  cost. 

Liquid  Steam  Glue.  The  Russian 
Bteam  glue  is  prepared  in  the  following 
manner:  Soak  100  pounds  of  good  glue 
in  12  to  14  gallons  of  water,  and  add  5 
to  6  pounds  of  aqua-fortis.  The  peculiar 
white  color  of  Russian  glue  is  produced 
by  mixing  6  pounds  of  finely-powdered 
sulphate  of  lead  with  the  solution. 

Heller's  Steam  Glue  consists  of  100 
parts  of  good  glue,  200  of  water,  and  12 
of  aqua-fortis. 

Cold  Liquid  Glue.  Dilute  2  to  2£ 
parts  of  crude  nitric  acid  with  40  to  50 
of  water.  Soak  in  this  25  parts  ot  glue 
for  24  hours  and  then  heat  the  mixture 
until  it  is  homogeneous.  The  quantity 
of  acid  used  depends  on  the  quality  of 
the  glue.  All  other  receipts  have  given 
unsatisfactory  results. 

To  Prepare  Excellent  Glue  which  will 
hold  in  Water.  Powder  and  dissolve  1 
part  of  glue  in  1  oi  thick  linseed-oil 
varnish  boiling  hot,  and  mix  thor- 
oughly. In  using  it  heat  the  2  planed 
sides  of  the  wood,  apply  the  glue  warm, 
and  press  the  pieces  together. 

Good  Furniture  Glue.  Boil  the  de- 
sired quantity  of  glue  with  water.  When 
sufficiently  boiled  pour  it  into  a  porce- 
lain dish  and  rub  with  a  pestle  into  a 
thick  paste  free  from  lumps.  Then 
pour  it  into  an  earthen- ware  dish,  let  it 
flool,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  of  desired 
size.  When  it  is  to  be  used  dissolve  2 
parts  of  the  prepared  glue  in  1  of  ordi- 
nary whiskey  diluted  with  2  of  water, 
and  let  it  boil  up  once.  The  glue  is 
now  ready  for  use  and  can  be  kept  for 


some  time.  It  possesses  extraordinary 
adhesive  power. 

Glue  for  Books.  Dissolve  over  a 
moderate  fire  12  parts  of  glue  in  8  of 
water,  add  8  parts  of  shavings  of  white 
soap,  and,  when  all  are  dissolved,  6  of 
powdered  alum,  stirring  the  mass  con- 
stantly. The  sheets  of  paper  may  be 
either  dipped  into  this  fluid  or  it  is  ap- 
plied with  a  sponge. 

Glue  Resisting  Wet  and  Moisture. 
Soak  any  desired  quantity  of  glue  in 
clean  water  for  11  hours,  then  pour  the 
water  off  and  stir  the  glue  into  a  paste. 
On  the  other  hand,  take  &  part  of  the 
glue  used  of  isinglass,  cut  it  in  small 
pieces,  soak  for  12  hours  in  ordinary 
whiskey,  and  then  rub  it  into  a  paste. 
Place  an  earthen  pot  on  the  fire  and 
put  in  gradually  portions  of  the  glue 
and  of  the  isinglass ;  stir  constantly,  add 
a  few  drops  of  linseed  oil  varnish,  strain 
through  a  clean  cloth,  and  put  the  glue 
in  bottles  for  future  use. 

New  Liquid  Glue.  This  glue,  which 
can  be  used  for  joining  together  all 
imaginable  articles,  even  porcelain, 
glass,  mother-of-pearl,  etc.,  is  prepared 
as  follows :  Pour  8  parts  of  water  over 
3  of  glue  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  let  it 
stand  for  a  few  hours.  Then  add  i  part 
of  hydrochloric  acid  gas  and  f  part  of 
sulphate  of  zinc,  and  expose  the  mixt- 
ure to  a  temperature  of  175°  to  190°  F. 
for  10  to  12  hours.  Tlie  glue  does  not 
again  congeal,  and  if  necessary  can  be 
still  further  clarified  by  allowing  it  to 
settle  and  then,  filtering. 

Bone  Glue  is  manufactured  from 
bones  comminuted  to  the  size  of  peas, 
or  from  waste  in  the  manufacture  of 
bone  flour.  The  material  is  first  moist- 
ened with  a  solution  of  oxalic  acid  in 
water,  then  piled  in  heaps  and  left  to 
itself,  whereby  spontaneous  heating 
takes  place.  It  is  then  steamed  in  a 
glue  boiler,  the  manhole  being  left 
open  during  the  process.  When  the 
ammoniacal  combinations  have  been 
expelled  the  material  is  subjected  to  a 
pressure  of  2  to  3  atmospheres,  and  boil- 
ing water  pumped  in  from  time  to  time 
in  order  to  completely  dissolve  the  gel- 
atine. The  concentrated  solution  of 
glue,  containing  from  25  to  30  per  cent, 
of  dry  substance,  is  finally  pressed  into 
a  wooden  vat,  where  it  can  be  further 
concentrated,  if  necessary,  by  heating  a 


GLUE,  MANUFACTURE  OF. 


155 


^team-pipe.  The  whole  process  re- 
quires from  5  to  6  hours. 

Dupasquier's  Process  of  Preparing 
Bone  Glue  as  a  Substitute  for  Isinglass. 
Selecting  and  Bleaching  the  Bones.  Re- 
move all  decayed  and  spongy  parts  of 
the  bones  and  boil  the  sound  portions 
for  1  hour  to  remove  the  fleshy  and  for- 
eign substances.  Potash  lye  is  added 
near  the  end  of  the  boiling  to  effectually 
clean  the  bones  of  fat.  This  lye  con- 
sists of  1  pound  each  of  potash  and 
lime  to  every  100  pounds  of  bones. 
After  remaining  in  the  lye  for  2  hours 
the  bones  are  placed  in  baskets  and  set 
in  running  water  to  wash  off  the  potash 
and  foreign  substances. 

Comminuting  the  Bones.  Remove 
the  bones  from  the  baskets,  dry,  and 
grind  them  in  a  power  mill.  The  mill 
used  by  the  inventor  is  6i  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  driven  by  horse-power,  a  strong 
horse  being  able  to  crush  150  pounds  of 
bones  to  the  size  of  beans  in  an  hour. 
But  it  is  better  to  grind  the  bones  in  an 
ordinary  flour-mill,  as  the  smaller  the 
particles  are  the  better  the  acid  acts 
upon  them. 

Immersing  the  Comminuted  Bones  in 
Hydrochloric  Acid.  The  bone-dust  is 
divided  into  2  parts  by  sifting  in  a  cyl- 
inder sieve.  One  part  will  be  impal- 
pable powder,  while  the  other  will  be 
about  as  coarse  as  snuff.  The  reason 
for  this  division  of  the  bone  flour  is  that 
experience  has  taught  that  less  acid  is 
required  for  the  fine  powder  than  for 
the  coarse.  The  following  are  the  pro- 
portions :  For  every  100  parts  of  fine 
powder  take  25  of  hydrochloric  acid 
and  75  of  water ;  for  100  parts  of  coarse 
powder  50  of  hydrochloric  acid  and  75 
of  water.  The  process  is  as  follows: 
Pour  the  mentioned  proportion  of  water 
over  the  bone  flour  in  a  large  vat  of 
white  wood,  and  stir  with  a  wooden 
shovel  until  every  particle  of  flour  is 
thoroughly  moistened.  Let  it  stand  for 
1  hour,  then  add  £  of  the  mentioned 
proportion  of  acid,  and,  in  intervals  of 
1  hour,  the  other  §.  Let  the  acid  act 
for  12  hours,  stirring  the  mixture  every 
hour  with  wooden  shovels.  Then  draw 
off  the  liquor  which  contains  hydrochlo- 
rate  of  lime,  free  phosphoric  acid,  and 
a  certain  quantity  of  free  hydrochloric 
acid.  The  residue  is  filled  into  bags  of 
a  loose  material  and  placed  in  running 


water  for  24  hours.  The  bags  are  then 
shaken  in  running  water  until,  on 
taking  a  sample  from  the  bag  and  plac- 
ing it  upon  the  tongue,  no  acid  or  any 
other  taste  is  perceived.  The  bone-dust 
is  now  brought  into  a  boiler  with  a  her- 
metically fitting  cover  and  200  parts  of 
water  added  to  every  150  parts  of  bone 
flour  weighed  before  immersion.  The 


Fig.  23. 

whole  is  now  boiled  until  all  gelatine 
is  entirely  dissolved,  which  may  be 
recognized  by  the  sediment  on  the  bot- 
tom becoming  pasty  and  containing  no 
particles  offering  resistance  to  pressure 
with  the  finger.  Fig.  23  represents  the 


Fig.  24. 

form  of  boiler  used  for  the  operation. 
The  liquor  is  then  dravvn  off  and  filtered 
through  a  bag,  the  residue  pressed  out^ 


156 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


and  the  liquor  obtained  thereby  added 
to  the  first. 

J&leacking.  Pour  the  liquor  into  a 
tall  barrel  (Fig.  24)  and  introduce  a 
very  vigorous  current  of  sulphurous 
gas  produced  by  decomposing  sulphuric 
acid  by  charcoal.  By  the  action  of  this 
acid  the  dark  color  of  the  liquor  is  con- 
verted into  a  bluish-white  resembling 
that  of  a  solution  of  good  isinglass.  Let 
the  liquor  settle  and  then  draw  it  off 
through  a  faucet  placed  3  inches  above 
the  bottom  of  the  barrel. 

Pouring  the  Gelatine  into  Moulds. 
The  liquor  is  carried  in  wooden  buck- 
ets to  another  room  where  the  moulds 
are  arranged.  They  are  made  of  white 
pine,  are  5£  feet  long  and  1J  feet  wide, 
and  stand  in  a  horizontal  position  along- 
side each  other  upon  a  wooden  frame. 
Around  the  edge  they  are  provided 
with  a  rim  14  inches  high.  They  are 
painted  with  a  coat  of  drying  oil  and 
white  lead.  The  liquor  is  poured  I  inch 
deep  in  them.  A  gelatine  of  firm  con- 
sistency is  soon  formed,  which  is  lifted 
out  with  wooden  knives  and  laid  upon 
loosely-woven  cloths  stretched  out  in  a 
room  through  which  a  strong  current 
of  air  passes.  It  remains  here  for  6  to 
10  days,  when  it  is  sufficiently  dry  to  be 
packed. 

Isinglass  (Fish  Glue}.  Genuine  isin- 
glass is  yellowish-white  or  grayish-yel- 
low to  brown,  transparent,  very  tough 
and  flexible,  can  be  easily  torn  only  in 
the  direction  of  the  grain,  has  no  taste 
or  odor,  and  when  chewed  it  becomes 
sticky.  A  solution  of  1  part  of  isin- 
glass in  50  of  warm  water  is  colorless 
and  cools  to  a  jelly.  It  consists  of : 

Animal  glue 70    per  cent. 

Qsniazome 16         " 

"Water 7.5       " 

Insoluble  particles  of  skin    .     .  2.5      " 
Acid  and  salts  of  soda,  potash, 

and  lime 4         " 

100          " 

It  is  principally  manufactured  in 
Russia  from  the  bladders  of  the  stur- 
geon and  other  fishes  belonging  to  the 
same  family.  The  bladders,  after  being 
placed  in  hot  water,  are  cut  open, 
washed,  and  exposed  to  the  air  with  the 
inner,  silvery  skin  upward.  This  is 
then  removed  by  rubbing,  placed  in 
moistened  cloths,  pressed,  and  then 


taken  from  the  cloth  and  laid  either  in 
serpentine  windings  between  3  small 
blocks  or  placed  together  in  sheets  like 
a  book  and  dried. 

Printers'  Hollers  from  Glue  and  Glyc- 
erine. Let  good  cabinet-makers'  glue 
stand  with  water  until  a  jelly  has  been 
!  formed,  heat  this  in  a  water-bath,  and, 
when  melted,  add  as  much  glycerine  as 
glue,  stir,  and  then  heat  carefully  until 
the  water  is  evaporated.  The  product 
is  an  elastic  substance  well  adapted  for 
printers'  rollers,  moulds  for  galvano- 
plastic  purposes,  etc. 

Another  process  is  as  follows:  Clean 
waste  of  skins  by  soaking  in  water  for 
several  days,  then  cut  them  in  small 
pieces  and  cover  them  with  glycerine. 
Boil  the  whole  for  some  time  at  212°  to 
235°  F.  \Vhen  all  the  waste  is  dissolved 
pour  the  solution  into  another  vessel, 
and,  when  cold,  pour  into  moulds. 

Birdlime  is  a  thick,  soft,  tough,  and 
sticky  mass  of  a  greenish  color,  has  an 
unpleasant  smell  and  bitter  taste,  melts 
easily  on  heating,  and  hardens  when 
exposed  in  thin  layers  to  the  air.  It  is 
difficult  to  dissolve  in  spirit  of  wine,  but 
easily  in  hot  alcohol,*oil  of  turpentine, 
and  fat  oils,  and  also  somewhat  in  vin- 
egar. The  best  quality  is  prepared  from, 
the  inner  green  bark  of  the  holly  (Ilex 
aquifolium),  which  is  boiled,  then  put 
in  barrels,  and  submitted  for  14  days  to 
slight  fermentation  until  it  becomes 
sticky.  Another  process  of  preparing 
it  is  to  mix  the  boiled  bark  with  juice 
of  mistletoe  berries  and  burying  it  in 
the  ground  until  fermented.  The  bark 
is  then  pulverized,  boiled,  and  washed. 
Artificial  birdlime  is  prepared  by  boil- 
ing and  then  igniting  linseed  oil,  or 
boiling  printing  varnish  until  it  is  very 
tough  and  sticky.  It  is  further  pre-' 
pared  by  dissolving  cabinet-makers* 
glue  in  water  and  adding  a  concentrated 
solution  of  chloride  of  zinc.  The  mixt- 
ure is  very  sticky,  does  not  dry  on  ex- 
posure to  the  air,  and  has  the  advantage 
that  it  can  be  easily  washed  off  the 
feathers  of  the  birds. 

The  following  mixtures  give  a  good 
fly  glue  : 

I.  Melt  together  6  parts  of  colophony, 
4  of  rapeseed  oil,  and  3  of  rosin. 

II.  Eight  parts  of  rosin,  4  each  of 
turpentine  and  rapeseed  oil,  and  i  of 
honey. 


HOUSEHOLD  AND  RURAL  ECONOMY. 


157 


•III.  Boil  to  a  thick  paste  1  pound  of 
rosin  and  3i  ounces  each  of  molasses 
and  linseed  oil.  Apply  either  of  the 
above  mixtures  to  a  thick  stick  and 
plant  it  in  a  pot  filled  with  sand. 


HOUSEHOLD  AND  RURAL  ECONOMY. 

How  to  Construct  a  Table  Fountain. 
To  a  glass  tube  about  2  feet  long  is  fused 
a  glass  funnel  capable  of  holding  about 
i  cubic  inch  of  fluid.  The  lower  end 
of  the  tube  passes  through  a  perforated 
cork  into  a  wide-necked  bottle  about  4 
inches  high.  A  glass  tube  a  few  inches 
long  and  running  somewhat  to  a  point 
(Fig.  25)  is  inserted  in  a  perforated  cork 
in  another  neck  of  the  same  bottle. 


Fig.  25. 

Sufficient  water  to  entirely  fill  the  bot- 
tle is  now  poured  through  the  funnel 
tube,  this  being  also  filled  up  to  the  rim 
of  the  funnel,  while  the  aperture  of  the 
short  tube  is  closed  by  placing  a  finger 
over  it.  As  soon  as  the  finger  is  re- 
moved a  jet  of  water  will  spurt  from  the 
small  tube,  a  constant  supply  being 
kept  up  from  an  urn  or  basin  provided 
with  a  cock  and  standing  over  the  fun- 
nel. By  a  suitable  arrangement  of 
flowers  upon  the  table  it  is  easy  to  con- 
ceal the  bottle  as  well  as  the  funnel 
tube  and  water  urn. 
Pine  Leaves  or  "Needles"  may  be 


I  made  a  very  suitable  substitute  for  hair, 
feathers,  etc.,  for  upholstery  purposes, 
by  boiling  them  with  lime,  soda,  pot- 
ash, or  similar  chemicals  until  reduced 
to  a  fibrous  state.  One  of  the  advan- 
tages claimed  for  this  material  is  that  it 
is  an  effectual  repellant  of  moths,  bed- 
bugs, fleas,  and  other  insect  pests. 

To  Keep  Milk  from  Soiiriny,  and  to 
retard  the  separation  of  cream,  add  a 
small  quantity  of  boracic  acid  to  it.  By 
this  means  it  can  be  kept  for  several 
days. 

Mass  for  Artificial  Flowers  and 
Fruits  is  prepared  from  bread  crumbs, 
magnesia,  and  finely- powdered  starch, 
which,  as  soon  as  it  is  fermented,  can 
be  formed  and  colored  to  any  desired 
pattern. 

Iiidigo-carmine,  saffron,  or  the  various 
lakes  are  used  as  coloring  substances, 
and  as  a  varnish  a  solution  of  gamboge 
in  alcohol. 

Simple  Process  for  Preparing  Potato 
Flour.  Boil  the  potatoes  and  then 
allow  them  to  freeze,  which  will  facil- 
itate the  pressing  out  of  the  water  and 
drying  of  the  substance  of  the  potato. 

Roasted  Malt  as  a  Substitute  for 
Coffee.  Mix  2  parts  of  ground  malt,  1  of 
ground  coffee,  and  1  of  chicory  ;  or  use 
equal  parts  of  coffee  and  chicory  or 
malt.  When  boiled  in  water,  or  steeped 
in  boiling  water,  these  mixtures  furnish 
a  nourishing  beverage  of  agreeable  taste 
and  flavor. 

Lemonade  Powder.  Rub  together  1 
drachm  of  tartaric  acid  and  1#  ounces 
of  sugar  with  3  drops  of  oil  of  lemon. 
Lemonade  prepared  with  this  powder  is 
refreshing,  cooling,  and  wholesome. 

II.  Mix  li  pounds  of  sugar,  5  ounces 
of  oil  of  lemon,  and  i  ounce  of  crystal- 
lized tartaric  acid.  Preserve  the  pow- 
der in  glass  bottles  hermetically  closed. 

Champagne  Powder.  To  convert  any 
wine,  at  a  moment's  notice,  into  cham- 

Eagne,  take  30  grains  of  dry,  pulverized 
icarbonate  of  sodium,  23  grains  of  dry. 
powdered  tartaric  acid,  and  2  ounces  of 
pulverized  sugar.  Put  the  powder  into 
a  strong  champagne  bottle  containing 
the  wine  and  cork  immediately.  Then 
turn  the  bottle  up  and  the  champagne 
will  be  ready  in  one  minute. 

Champagne  Mixture.  Add  to  5  quarts 
of  must  wine  1  pound  of  white  sugar. 
and  a  little  alcohol.  One  /jk.ss  of  this 


158 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


mixture  will  convert  any  young  wine 
into  champagne. 

Currant  Cliampagne.  Boil  pure  cur- 
rant juice  to  the  consistency  of  syrup 
and  preserve  in  well-corked  bottles. 
When  to  be  used  add  a  cupful  of  this 
syrup  to  i  gallon  of  French  wine  and 
stir  the  mixture  thoroughly. 

English  Champagne.  To  10  pounds 
of  gooseberry  juice  add  5  quarts  of  water 
and  allow  it  to  stand  for  3  days ;  then 
press  out  and  add  3  pounds  of  sugar 
and  let  it  stand  for  5  or  6  weeks,  with 
occasional  skimming,  and  add  a  small 
quantity  of  brandy  and  fill  into  bot- 
tles. 

Fruit  Champagne.  Peel  and  grate 
juicy  pears  and  press  out  the  juice, 
which  pour  into  a  cask  and  cover  the 
bung-hole  with  a  linen  cloth,  and  let 
the  cask  stand  in  a  moderately  warm 
room.  Fermentation  will  begin  in  a 
few  days,  when  the  scum  must  be  care- 
fully removed.  When  the  scum  ceases, 
fill  the  cask  with  clear  fermented  pear 
juice  (which  has  been  fermented  in  a 
closely-corked  bottle)  and  allow  the 
cask  to  rest  for  5  or  6  weeks  in  a  cellar. 
Put  a  faucet  in  the  cask  about  4  inches 
above  the  chime,  and  draw  the  wine  off 
into  bottles  and  secure  their  corks  with 
wire  covered  with  pitch  or  wax.  In 
about  2  weeks  the  wine  will  be  fit  for 
use,  closely  resembling  champagne.  It 
improves  with  age. 

FRUIT  WINES.  Apple  Wine  (Cider}. 
English  Process.  Store  the  apples  for 
10  to  14  days  in  an  open  shed  and  care- 
fully reject  the  rotten  ones.  Then  macer- 
ate the  sound  apples,  enclose  the  pulp 
in  a  hair  cloth,  and  place  under  a  press, 
from  which  the  juice  is  conveyed  into 
barrels.  If  the  apples  are  pressed  with- 
out the  hair  cloth  the  bung-holes  of  the 
barrels  must  be  covered  with  a  brick 
until  spring.  The  juice  is  then  racked 
off  into  other  barrels  and  £  pound  of 
hops  and  some  burnt  sugar  are  added 
and  the  bung-holes  closed.  The  wine 
will  not  be  fit  to  drink  before  a  year. 

Apple  Wine  (Normandy  Process]. 
The  apples  are  crushed  and  pressed  in 
the  usual  manner  and  the  juice  con- 
veyed into  barrels ;  but  instead  of  allow- 
ing fermentation  to  take  its  course  the 
juice,  as  soon  as  fermentation  has  com- 
menced, is  poured  into  other  barrels, 
and  again  into  others  as  soon  as  fer- 


mentation recommences.  This  is  gen« 
erally  done  3  times. 

The  scum  and  precipitation  of  the  3 
fermentations  are  then  placed  in  wool- 
len bags  and  suspended  over  a  vat. 
The  very  clear  apple  wine  draining 
from  them  is  added  to  the  rest.  This 
wine  has  a  very  agreeable  taste  and  can 
be  kept  for  a  long  time. 

Apple  Champagne  (Champagne  Ci- 
der). To  a  champagne  bottle  full  of 
apple  wine  take  2  to  3  ounces  of  sugar, 
dissolve  it  in  the  wine,  add  as  quickly 
as  possible  f  ounce  of  finely-powdered 
tartaric  acid  and  1  drachm  of  finely- 
powdered  bicarbonate  of  sodium,  cork 
the  bottle,  secure  the  cork  with  wire, 
and  let  it  lie  for  8  days,  when  the  cham- 

13irch  Wine.  Bore  holes  in  birch 
trees  in  the  spring  before  the  leaves  ap- 
pear and  insert  tubes  to  drain  off  the 
sap  or  juice.  Branches  of  elder  bush 
are  often  used  for  tubes.  Large  trees 
can  be  tapped  in  several  places  without 
injury.  If  a  sufficient  quantity  of  juice 
is  not  obtained  in  1  day,  it  should  be 
kept  in  bottles  hermetically  closed  by 
covering  the  cork  with  wax  or  pitch. 

Boil  the  juice,  after  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity has  been  collected,  and  carefully 
remove  the  scum  as  it  arises.  Then  add 
4  pounds  of  sugar  and  the  rind  of  1 
lemon  to  every  gallon  of  juice,  and  boil 
for  i  hour  longer,  carefully  removing 
the  scum.  When  cold  the  juice  is  fer- 
mented by  adding  yeast  spread  upon 
toasted  bread,  and  is  then  allowed  to 
stand  for  5  to  6  days,  being  stirred  oc- 
casionally. Now  take  a  clean  barrel 
holding  exactly  the  quantity  of  wine 
prepared,  suspend  in  it  a  piece  of  ignited 
sulphur,  close  the  bung  until  the  sul- 
phur is  extinguished,  and  then  bring 
the  wine  into  the  barrel.  As  long  as 
fermentation  continues  the  bung  is 
placed  loosely  in  the  bung-hole.  When 
fermentation  ceases  the  bung  is  driven 
in  tight  and  the  barrel  allowed  to  lie 
for  3  months,  when  the  wine  is  drawn 
into  bottles. 

Blackberry  Wine.  Cover  ripe  black- 
berries with  boiling  water  in  an  earthen 
or  wooden.vessel  and,  when  cool  enough 
to  admit  the  hand,  crush  the  blackber- 
ries; cover  the  vessel  and  allow  it  to 
stand  until  the  berries  are  forced  to  the 
top,  requiring  generally  2  or  3  days. 


HOUSEHOLD  AND  RURAL  ECONOMY. 


The  clear  juice  is  then  drawn  off  into  a 
similar  vessel  and  1  pound  of  sugar 
added  to  every  3  gallons  of  fluid,  when 
the  whole  is  thoroughly  stirred  together 
and  allowed  to  stand  for  8  to  10  days. 
The  wine  is  then  filtered  through  a  bag 
into  a  capacious  vessel.  The  ne*t  morn- 
ing 4  ounces  of  isinglass,  previously 
soaked  for  12  hours,  are  slowly  boiled 
in  1  pint  of  white  wine.  When  all  is 
dissolved  the  above  quantity  is  added 
to  every  gallon  of  the  wine,  the  whole 
allowed  to  boil  up  once,  and  then 
poured  into  a  cask. 

Cherry  Wine.  Free  perfectly  ripe 
cherries  from  the  stems,  crush,  and 
press  them  through  a  hair  sieve.  Then 
add  to  every  gallon  of  juice  2  pounds 
of  sugar  and  place  it  in  a  vessel  just 
large  enough  to  be  entirely  filled  with 
it.  When  fermentation  'has  run  its 
course  and  no  noise  can  be  detected  in 
the  barrel,  drive  in  the  bung  and  allow 
the  barrel  to  lay  for  3  months,  and  then 
fill  the  wine  into  bottles. 

Currant  Wine.  To  every  gallon  of 
currant  juice  add  1  pound  of  sugar. 
When  the  sugar  is  dissolved  put  the 
juice  in  a  cask,  which  should  be  en- 
tirely filled  with  it.  Put  this  in  a  cellar 
until  fermentation  has  run  its  course, 
then  fill  it  up  with  juice  previously 
fermented  and  close  the  bunghole. 
The  wine  remains  in  this  barrel  for  6 
months,  when  it  is  drawn  off  into  an- 
other barrel  or  into  bottles. 

Another  Receipt.  A  beverage  re- 
sembling Madeira  wine  is  obtained  by 
using  equal  parts  of  gooseberry  and 
currant  juice,  dissolving  in  it  1  pound 
of  sugar  for  every  gallon  of  juice,  and 
allowing  the  whole  to  ferment.  The 
clear  wine  is  then  drawn  ofi0  into  an- 
other barrel  and  1  pint  of  French  brandy 
added  to  every  gallon  of  it,  when  the 
bunghole  is  closed  as  tight  as  possible 
and  the  barrel  allowed  to  lie  in  a  cellar 
for  5  to  6  months,  when  the  wine  is 
drawn  off  into  bottles. 

Damson  Wine.  Ten  pounds  of  dam- 
sons, when  quite  ripe,  are  crushed  and 
boiled  in  li  gallons  of  water.  Then 
press  out  the  juice,  add  3  pounds  of 
sugar,  let  it  ferment  in  a  barrel,  and 
add,  after  a  fortnight,  a  little  good 
brandy  to  it,  when  it  will  be  fit  to  fill 
in  bottles. 

Elderberry  Wine.    Remove  the  stems 


from  100  pounds  of  elderberries,  crush 
and  boil  them ;  then  add  50  pounds  of 
sugar,  2  pounds  of  cream  of  tartar,  and 
35  gallons  of  water,  and  let  the  mixture 
ferment.  By  adding  a  little  ginger, 
cloves,  raisins,  and  yeast,  it  will  yield 
at  the  termination  of  the  fermentation  a 
wine  similar  to  Cyprus  wine. 

Ginger  Wine.  Add  20  pounds  of 
sugar  to  12  gallons  of  water  and  boil  to 
a  syrup.  Then  boil  in  a  separate  vessel 
1  pound  of  white  Jamaica  ginger  in  2i 
gallons  of  water  and  add,  while  boiling, 
a  few  lemon  peels.  Then  mix  both 
liquids,  add  a  little  yeast  and  4  pounds 
of  seeded  raisins.  Let  it  ferment  for 
several  weeks,  and  then  add  1  pound  of 
tartaric  acid  and  2  gallons  of  elderberry 
juice. 

Honey  Wine.  To  2  pounds  of  honey 
add  1  gallon  of  water.  Boil  the  mixt- 
ure for  1  hour,  continually  skimming 
it;  then  add  some  yeast  and  let  the 
liquid  ferment,  hanging  into  the  barrel 
a  bag  containing  bruised  spices,  such 
as  coriander  seeds,  cloves,  ginger,  and 
calamus,  of  each  1  ounce.  The  fer- 
mented liquor  will  be  clear  after  1 
month,  when  it  can  be  drawn  into  bot- 
tles. 

Orange  Wine.  Boil  40  pounds  of 
sugar  for  i  hour  with  13J  gallons  of 
water.  At  the  same  time  press  out  and 
filter  the  juice  of  75  oranges  and  mix  it, 
together  with  the  rinds,  with  the  sugary 
fluid  after  the  latter  has  been  cooled  off 
to  about  85°  F.  The  mixture  is  then 
poured  into  a  cask  and  frequently  stirred 
during  3  or  4  days,  when  the  cask  is 
bunged  and  placed  in  a  cellar  for  6 
months,  when  the  wine  is  drawn  off. 

Orange  Wine  with  Lemon.  Dissolve 
6\  pounds  of  sugar  in  1£  gallons  of 
water  at  a  temperature  about  105°  F. 
Add  to  this  the  juice  of  5  good  lemons 
and  3  table-spoonfuls  of  beer  yeast,  and 
let  the  mixture  ferment  for  48  hours. 
In  the  meanwhile  grate  the  rinds  of  the 
lemons  and  those  of  25  oranges  upon 
1  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  add  this  to  the 
fermenting  liquid  and  immediately 
afterwards  the  juice  of  the  25  oranges, 
and  then  let  the  whole  ferment  for  48 
hours  longer.  Then  pour  the  fluid  into 
a  cask,  add  1  pint  of  wine,  bung  the 
cask,  and  let  it  lie  for  6  months,  when 
the  wine  can  be  drawn  off  into  bottles. 
Wine.  To  6i  pounds  of 


IfiO 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  HECEIPT  BOOK. 


raisins  add  20  pounds  of  water,  2  pound 
of  sugar,  8J  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar, 
and  sufficient  yeast  to  bring  the  mass 
into  fermentation.  If  the  wine  is  to  be 
consumed  at  ouce  it  is  not  necessary  to 
add  yeast. 

A  nother  Receipt*  Pour  30  gallons  of 
ordiuary  wine  over  20  pounds  of  raisins 
previously  picked  over,  freed  from  stems 
and  stoned,  and  stir  the  mass  thoroughly. 
Next  prepare  a  solution  of  8|  pounds  of 
fine  loaf  sugar  in  1  gallon  of  water  by 
boiling,  and  when  this  is  cold  add  it 
to  the  raisins  and  wine ;  then  add  a 
saturated  solution  of  i  ounce  of  bicar- 
bonate of  potassium  and  immediately 
afterwards  a  solution  of  i  ounce  of  tar- 
taric  acid  in  a  little  water.  Bung  the 
cask  loosely,  shake  it  thoroughly,  place 
it  in  a  moderately  warm  place,  and  then 
remove  the  bung.  After  4  weeks  add 
4i  pounds  of  loaf  sugar  and  a  like 
quantity  after  6  weeks.  Fermentation 
will  cease  iu  8  to  10  weeks.  The  wine 
can  then  be  fined  with  gelatine,  isin- 
glass, or  white  of  egg,  and  drawn  off 
into  bottles.  It  has  an  agreeable  taste 
resembling  very  much  that  of  Spanish 
wine. 

Raspberry  Wine.  Crush  the  berries 
with  a  spoon  and  filter  the  juice  through 
flannel  into  an  earthen  pot.  To  each 
quart  of  the  juice  add  1  pound  of  fine 
sugar,  stir  the  mass  thoroughly,  and  let 
it  stand  for  3  days.  Then  pour  off  the 
clear  fluid,  add  to  every  quart  of  iuice 
2i  gallons  of  white  wine,  and  fill  the 
liquor  in  bottles.  The  wine  can  be  used 
in  6  to  8  days. 

Remedy  for  Warts.  Mix  1  part  of 
carbonate  of  potassium,  1  of  burned  lime, 
and  2  of  soap.  Stir  the  mixture  into  a 
thick  paste  with  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  spirit  of  wine,  and  apply  this  to  the 
warts.  This  should  be  done  very  care- 
fully, so  that  the  caustic  mass  does  not 
touch  the  healthy  skin  of  the  hand. 

Remedy  for  Chilblains.  Apply  tan- 
nin, which  will  adhere  to  the  respective 
parts  of  the  body  by  gently  breathing 
upon  the  skin.  This  is  an  excellent 
remedy,  frequently  preventing  the  ap- 
pearance of  chilblains  if  used  in  time, 
and  does  not  disturb  the  transpiration 
of  the  hand. 

Remedy  for  Corns.  Mix  £  drachm 
of  salicylic  acid,  8  grains  of  extract  of 
Indian  hem]),  and  Bounce  of  collodion. 


Apply  once  a  day  to  the  hard  skin  by 
means  of  a  small  brush.  The  skin  con- 
tracts to  a  horn-like  crust  and  becomes 
detached  from  the  parts  underneath  it, 
so  that  it  can  be  easily  removed  with- 
out the  slightest  pain. 

Ginger  Beer.  To  3  gallons  of  water 
add  4i  ounces  of  bruised  ginger  root,  2 
ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  4J 
pounds  of  sugar.  Boil  for  a  few  min- 
utes, and  after  cooling  add  about  1 
table-spoonful  of  fresh  yeast.  Cover 
up  the  vessel  with  a  thick  flannel  cloth 
and  let  it  stand  over  night.  Then  add 
a  little  essence  of  lemon,  strain  it,  put 
the  fluid  in  clean  bottles,  and  secure  the 
corks  with  twine  or  wire.  The  beer 
will  be  fit  to  drink  after  standing  4  days. 

English  Ginger  Beer,  Boil  3  ounces 
of  pulverized  ginger,  2  ounces  of  cream 
of  tartar,  and  2  pounds  of  sugar  with 
li  gallons  of  water.  When  cold  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  yeast  to  the  fluid,  let 
it  stand  over  night,  then  filter,  and 
draw  into  bottles  which  should  be  well 
corked. 

Spruce  Beer,  Put  into  a  common 
soda  bottle  about  30  grains  of  bicar- 
bonate of  sodium,  10  drops  of  essence 
of  spruce,  and  about  30  grains  of  crys- 
tallized tartaric  acid.  Fill  the  bottle 
quickly  with  spring  water,  cork,  and 
secure  the  cork  with  twine  or  wire. 

Another  Receipt.  Comminute  the 
young  sprouts  of  the  spruce  tree,  then 
boil  them  with  water  until  they  turn 
yellow  and  the  bark  peels  off  easily. 
Add  some  toasted  bread  and  malt,  let 
the  fluid  ferment  in  the  ordinary  man- 
ner, and  bottle.  The  proportions  of  the 
materials  used  are  as  follows:  Ten 
gallons  of  water,  If  quarts  of  young 
spruce  sprouts,  i  pint  of  syrup  (or, 
instead  of  the  syrup,  1  pint  of  malt 
or  |  pint  of  carrots),  and  some  toasted 
bread  and  yeast. 

English  Spruce  Beer.  Comminute 
the  young  spruce  sprouts,  press  out  the 
juice,  and  boil  it  down  to  the  consist- 
ency of  syrup.  Pvt  the  syrup  in  well- 
closed  bottles,  wh-  re  in  the  course  of 
time  it  will  lose  all  taste  of  resin. 
When  it  is  to  be  used  dilute  the  neces- 
sary quantity  with  water  and  ferment 
with  yeast. 

Root  Beer  is  prepared  by  boiling 
various  roots,  such  as  sarsaparilla, 
comfrey,  licorice  root,  and  sassafras 


HOUSEHOLD  AND   RURAL  ECONOMY. 


161 


blossoms  and  bark,  in  the  same  manner 
as  giveu  for  ginger  beer.  Then  add  1 
p.mnd  of  sugar  to  every  gallon  of  the 
decoction,  and  when  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved add  1  table-spoonful  of  yeast 
to  the  same  quantity  of  liquid,  let  it 
ferment  over  night,  and  the  following 
dav  the  beer  will  be  tit  for  drinking. 

To  Prepare  Fly  Paper.  Thoroughly 
saturate  stout  unsized  paper  with  a 
solution  of  1  part  of  arseniaty  of  potas- 
sium or  arseniate  of  sodium  and  2  of 
white  sugar  in  20  parts  of  water,  and 
then  dry  it.  When  the  paper  is  to  be 
used  moisten  it  with  some  water  and 
place  it  in  saucers.  It  is  advisable  to 
be  very  careful  with  this  paper  as  it  is 
poisonous. 

Fly  Paper  Free  from  Poison.  Pour 
i  gallon  of  water  over  1  pound  of  quas- 
sia wood  and  let  it  stand  over  night, 
th'jn  boil  the  strained  fluid  down  to  1 
quart.  The  wood  is  again  boiled  with 

1  quart  of  water  until  1  pint  remains, 
when  the  2   infusions  are  mixed    to- 
gether and  i  to  I  pound  of  sugar  dis- 
solved in  it.     Pass  the  paper  through 
this  fluid,  let  it  drain  off,  and  hang  it 
up  to  dry.     Red  blotting-paper  is  gen- 
erally used. 

Persian  Insect  Powder  is  prepared 
from  the  leaves  and  blossoms  of  Pyre- 
t'nniin,  caucasicum.  An  alcoholic  ex- 
tract can  also  be  prepared  by  digesting 

2  parts  of  the  powder  with  12  of  spirit 
of  wine  for  8  days  and  then  pressing 
and  filtering. 

To  Destroy  Insects  and  Worms  In- 
festing Wall  Paper,  etc.  Mix  2  pounds 
of  starch  paste  with  1  ounce  of  finely- 
pulverized  colocynth. 

To  Preserve  Animal  Skins.  Wicke 
recommends  to  pulverize  sulphate  of 
copper  as  finely  as  possible  and  to  stir 
the  powder  into  a  paste  with  water. 
The  flesh  side  of  the  skin  is  brushed 
with  this  as  quickly  as  possible,  in 
order  to  prevent  evaporation  of  the 
water.  The  paste  permeates  the  skins 
in  a  short  time,  securing  them  against 
all  attacks  by  insects. 

According  to  another  receipt  1  part 
of  sulphate  of  copper  is  mixed  with  2 
of  alum.  This  mixture  forms  insoluble 
combinations  with  the  organic  tissues. 

To  Preserve.  Stuffed  Animals.  Mix 
2  parts  of  air-slaked  lime,  sifted  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  1  part  of  sifted  tobacco 
11 


ashes,  with  i  part  of  alum.  Rub  the 
mixture  thoroughly  into  the  flesh  side 
of  the  skins  to  be  stuffed. 

A nother  Receipt.  Pulverize  and  mix 
1  ounce  of  sal-ammoniac,  i  ounce  of 
burned  alum,  3£  ounces  of  tobacco 
ashes,  and  25  ounces  of  aloes,  and  pro- 
ceed as  above. 

A  nother  Receipt.  Pulverize  and  mix 
thoroughly  1  part  of  cobalt  and  2  of 
alum,  and  rub  the  mixture  thoroughly 
into  the  flesh  side  of  the  skin  previously 
brushed  with  pine  oil. 

The  following  receipts  are  principally 
used  for  skins  of  mammalia : 

I.  Boil  £  part  of  alum  and  i  part  of 
pulverized  cobalt  in  4  parts  of  water; 
strain  the  fluid  and  brush  it  over  both 
sides  of  the  skin. 

II.  Dissolve  i  part  of  tar  formed  from 
the  grease  on  the  iron  axle  of  a  wagon 
in  1  part  of  strong  soap-boilers  lye,  and 
coat  the  flesh  side  of  the  skin  uniformly 
with  the  resulting  thick  paste. 

To  Destroy  Insects  Infesting  Her- 
baria, and  Collections  of  Insects.  Weiss 
recommends  a  solution  of  corrosive 
sublimate  in  sulphuric  ether. 

To  Protect  Woollen  Goods  and  Furs. 
Fumigation  with  sal-ammoniac  and 
also  laying  stems  of  wormwood  and 
blooming  hearts  clover  between  the 
articles  have  been  proposed  as  excellent 
remedies  for  destroying  moths.  Dust- 
ing the  articles  with  pulverized  sulphate 
of  iron  is  said  to  be  good  for  keeping 
away  moths. 

Formerly  a  mixture  was  used  consist- 
ing of  4  parts  of  oil  of  lavender,  4  of 
ethereal  oil  of  wormwood,  and  1  of  oil 
of  turpentine,  well  shaken  together. 
Strips  of  blotting-paper  were  soaked  in 
the  mixture  and  placed  in  the  pockets 
or  seams  of  the  clothes. 

Hager  recommends  the  following 
mixtures : 

I.  For  Cloth.    One  and  a  half  fluid 
ounces  of  pure  carbolic  acid,  2  fluid 
drachms  each  of  oil  of  cloves,  lemon 
peel,  and  nitro-benzple,  dissolved  in  i 
gallon  of  spirit  of  wine. 

II.  For  Furs.    Six  fluid  drachms  of 
pure  carbolic  acid,  3  fluid  drachms  each 

if  oil  of  cloves,  lemon  peel,  and  nitre- 
benzole,  dissolved  in  1  quart  of  spirit 
of  wine. 

The  articles  are  moderately  sprinkled 
with  the  fluid.  One  sprinkling  will 


162 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


suffice  for  the  summer,  provided  they 
are  stored  in  closed  boxes  or  closets,  but 
cloth  in  storerooms  will  require  to  be 
sprinkled  twice. 

Other  Receipts  for  Destroying  Moths. 
I.  Soak  blotting-paper  in  a  mixture  of 


phorus  in  1  gallon  of  hot  water  and 
add  10  pounds  of  corn  meal ;  then  rub 
up  gradually  and  add  10  pounds  of 
butter  and  5  pounds  of  sugar. 

To   Destroy  Field   Rats    and  Mice. 
Take  equal  parts  of  burnt  lime,  pow- 


equal  parts  of  oil  of  camphor  and  spirits  j  dered  cicuta,  calcined  plaster  of  Paris, 
of  turpentine,  and  lay  the  paper  among  \  powdered  hellebore,  and  oil  of  anise- 
the  clothing  or  furs.  j  seed.  Mix  and  form  into  small  pill 


II.  Use  a  mixture  of  alum,  cayenne 
pepper,  oil  of  camphor,  and  calcined 
plaster  of  Paris. 

For  the  Destruction  of  Bedbugs  and 
other  Insects.  According  to  Hirzel, 
watery  sulphurous  acid  is  an  excellent 
agent  for  destroying  bedbugs  and  their 
eggs,  as  well  as  other  noxious  insects. 
It  is  sufficient  to  sprinkle  a  few  drops 
of  the  acid  upon  the  places  or  into  the 
joints  and  holes  infested  by  the  insects, 
and  to  repeat  this  several  times. 

Wild  thyme  is  also  an  infallible 
means  of  destroying  bedbugs.  Lay  it 
in  the  beds  and  corners  of  the  room,  and 
then  close  the  doors  and  windows.  It 
is  advisable  to  heat  the  room  in  winter. 
In  48  hours  all  traces  of  bedbugs  will 
have  disappeared. 

For  the  Destruction  of  Fleas  on  Dogs, 
Horses,  and  Cattle.  Take  equal  parts 
of  beef  gall,  oil  of  camphor,  oil  of  penny- 
royal, extract  of  gentian,  and  spirits  of 
wine. 

To  Destroy  Cockroaches.  Mix  equal 
parts  of  Persian  insect  powder  and 
powdered  Levantic  wormseed,  and  scat- 
ter the  mixture  about  the  places  which 
the  cockroaches  frequent. 

To  Destroy  Mosquitoes  and  Gnats. 
A  solution  of  beefs  gall  in  spirits  of 
camphor  and  spirits  of  turpentine  does 


and  scatter  them  about  the  places  the 
mice  and  rats  frequent. 

London  Purple  for  the  Destruction 
of  Insects.  London  purple,  which  is  a 
waste  product  of  the  fabrication  of  rosan- 
iline,  comes  into  commerce  as  a  fine 
powder  of  a  violet  color.  It  is  soluble 
in  water,  and  is  composed  of: 

Rosaniline 12.46  per  cent. 

Arsi-nious  acid 43.65       " 

Calcium  oxide 21.82  " 

Impurities 14.57  " 

Ferric  oxide 1.16  " 

Water 2.27  " 

Loss 4.07  " 

Prof.  C.  V.  Riley,  of  Washington, 
recommends  this  substance  as  a  means 
of  destroying  insects,  especially  the  po- 
tato bug,  army  worm,  cotton  worm, 
locusts,  and  caterpillar.  It  has  the  ad- 
vantage of  being  cheaper  than  Paris 


green, 


which  has  been  almost  exclu- 


excellent service. 

To  Drive  away  Ants  from  Closets, 
Pantries,  etc.  Chalk  the  shelves  upon 
which  the  provisions  are  put;  or  apply 


sively  used  thus  far,  and  of  being  easily 
detected  by  its  peculiar  color,  while 
Paris  green  cannot  be  detected  upon 
plants,  this  haying  frequently  caused 
poisoning.  It  is  claimed  that,  if  suffi- 
ciently diluted,  it  is  entirely  harmless 
if  applied  to  vegetables.*  Eight  ounces 
of  the  London  purple  are  sufficient  for 
about  50  gallons  of  water.  The  retail 


price  per  pound  may  be  given  as  from 
8  to  12  cents. 

Hager's  Universal  Composition  for 
the  Destruction  of  Vermin  is  prepared 
as  follows:  Pulverize  and  mix  100 

pantry :  or  soak  brckd^Ste  in'til^  I  Pa£»  of  Sumatra ^  benzoin  50  of  aloes, 
ure  of  quassia,  and  lay  them  about  the  !  and, 25  °f  an  inferior  quality  of  salicylic 
cjoset  M  j  acid ;  then  pour  over  the  powder  50 

Rats  will  be  completely  driven  away  \  Parts  °f  inferior  oil  of  lavender  (from 
•om  any  buUdin<i\*v  smearing  the  rat  i  Lavandula  vpica),  10    of    badian-seed 

oil,  and  1000  of  spirit  of  wine,  and  let 
the  whole  stand  for  1  day,  stirring  it 
frequently.  Then  add  100  parts  of 
oleic  acid  and  a  solution  of  60  parts  of 


from  any  building  by  smearing  the  rat 
holes  which  are  found  near  the  walls, 
in  the  cellar,  with  tar.  In  24  hours 
there  will  not  be  found  a  rat  about  the 
house ;  nor  will  they  return  while  fresh 
supplies  of  tar  are  kept  about  the  holes. 
Phosphorus  Paste  for  Destroying 
Rats  and  Mice.  Melt  8  ounces  of  phos- 


*  We  are  inclined  to  doubt  this  claim  fora 
substance  containing  43.65  per  cent,  of  arsen- 
ious  acid.  W.  T.  B. 


HOUSEHOLD  AND  RURAL  ECONOMY. 


163 


crude  caustic  soda  and  25  of  borax  in 
500  of  water.  Allow  the  whole  to  stand 
again  for  1  day,  stirring  frequently,  and 
then  add  3000  parts  of  crude  carbolic 
acid  of  90  to  95  per  cent. ;  place  the 
composition  in  a  cool  place  for  1  week 
and  then  pour  off  the  clear,  supernatant 
fluid.  It  should  be  carefully  handled, 
and  its  spurting  into  the  eyes  or  upon 
the  lips  must  be  especially  avoided. 
This  direction,  when  prepared  for  sale, 
should  be  printed  upon  the  label. 
This  composition,  strongly  diluted  with 
water,  is  principally  used  for  cattle. 
For  young  animals  dilute  it  with  120 
times  its  volume  of  water,  and  for  older 
with  100  times.  This  is  best  done  by 
pouring  some  of  the  composition  into  a 
capacious  flask,  then  adding  twice  the 
volume  of  water,  and  shaking  vigor- 
ously. Then  pour  the  strongly  foaming 
liquid  into  a  barrel  or  boiler  and  then 
add  water  sufficient  to  dilute  100  times, 
stirring  constantly.  In  using,  stir  it 
frequently  and  apply  it  with  a  brush  to 
the  skin  and  other  infected  parts  of  the 
animal,  rubbing  it  thoroughly  in.  Avoid 
as  much  as  possible  spurting  the  fluid 
into  the  eyes,  anus,  and  sexual  parts. 
To  destroy  the  eggs  of  the  insects  re- 
peat the  operation  the  third  day.  Ani- 
mals with  white  hair  must  the  next  day 
be  washed  with  warm  water.  The  fol- 
lowing are  the  principal  advantages  of 
this  composition  :  1.  It  is  the  best  and 
safest  means  of  destroying  the  eggs  of 
vermin  infesting  animals,  while  it  is 
entirely  innoxious.  2.  It  is  the  best 
and  simplest  remedy  for  mange  in  dogs 
and  scab  in  sheep  and  cattle.  For 
horses  and  cattle  dilute  the  composi- 
tion with  30  times  its  volume  of  water, 
for  sheep  with  40  times,  and  for  dogs  50 
times  its  volume.  Apply  twice  daily, 
forenoon  and  afternoon,  to  the  places 
infected  with  scab  or  mange,  and  rub 
in  with  a  brush.  If  the  odor  of  the 
composition  does  not  occasion  any  in- 
convenience it  is  also,  diluted  with  30 
times  its  volume  of  water,  an  excellent 
remedy  for  itch  in  the  human  being. 
Apply  it  once  daily  to  the  infected 
parts.  3.  For  wounds,  especially  for 
those  emitting  a  bad  smell,  dip  linen, 
cotton,  or  lint  into  the  composition  di- 
luted with  100  times  its  quantity  of 
water.  For  deep  wounds  inject  the 
fluid.  4.  To  protect  animals  from  flies 


and  other  annoying  insects,  moisten  the 
skin  moderately  with  the  composition, 
strongly  diluted,  repeating  the  opera- 
tion once  or  twice  daily,  if  necessary. 
5.  The  universal  composition  may  be 
used  everywhere  where  the  vitality  of 
insects  or  cryptogamous  plants  is  to  bo 
destroyed.  Seed  corn  is  kept  sound 
and  protected  from  birds,  mice,  snails, 
etc.,  by  soaking  it,  half  an  hour  before 
sowing,  in  the  composition  diluted  with 
40  times  its  volume  of  water,  taking  it 
out  of  the  fluid  with  a  sieve,  and  allow- 
ing it  to  dry  in  the  air. 

For  the  Destruction  of  Phylloxera 
( Vine  Grub,  Vine  Fretter],  Armand 
Boyreau,  of  La  Rochelle,  France,  rec- 
ommends the  following  composition, 
for  which  he  has  obtained  a  patent  in 
France  and  Germany :  Mix  30  pounds 
of  sodium  phosphate,  10  pounds  of  am- 
monium phosphate,  40  pounds  of  sal- 
ammoniac,  30  pounds  of  potassium  sul- 
phate, 50  pounds  of  soda,  60  pounds  of 
flowers  of  sulphur,  and  1900  pounds  of 
sulphate  of  iron.  The  composition  is 
mixed  with  the  soil. 

Papasogli  applies  a  mixture  of  30 
parts  of  nitrobenzole,  50  of  sulphuric 
acid,  and  900  of  water  to  the  roots  of 
the  vine.  To  kill  the  eggs  on  the  trunk 
he  uses  a  paste  prepared  from  i  ounce 
of  nitrobenzole,  2  pounds  of  lime,  and  89 
pounds  of  earth.  This  mixture  adheres 
tightly  to  the  trunk  and  is  not  washed 
off  by  long-continued  rain,  the  odor  of 
the  nitrobenzole  remaining  for  a  long 
time. 

Simple  Disinfectant.  Pulverize  1 
pound  of  fresh  sulphate  of  iron  of  a  yel- 
lowish-green color  and  mix  it  with  1 
pound  of  plaster  of  Paris;  bring  the 
mixture  into  a  vessel  and  pour  over  it, 
constantly  stirring,  1  gallon  of  rain 
water  heated  to  the  boiling  point.  After 
stirring  the  mixture  for  2  minutes  pour 
it  down  the  privy  well  or  over  the  place 
to  be  disinfected.  In  the  meanwhile 
place  in  another  vessel  i  gallon  of  rain 
water,  |  pint  of  petroleum,  and  £  pint 
of  soda  water-glass,  and  bring  the  mixt- 
ure to  the  boiling  point.  Tljen  stir  it 
for  2  minutes  and  pour  it  after  the  first 
mixture. 

Disinfecting  Powder  of  Max  Fried- 
rich  consists,  according  to  an  analysis 
made  in  the  laboratory  of  the  Chen* 
isker  Zeitung,  of: 


164 


TECHHO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK, 


Sand  and  silica 4.30  per  cent. 

Ferric  oxide  and  alumina  .     .  1.60 

Plaster  of  Paris 48.13 

Calcium  hydrate 32.65 

Chlorine 0.82 

Magnesia traces. 

Alkalies  and  carbonic  acid      .  0.62 

Extract  of  ether 3.16 

Naphthaline,    carbolic    acid, 

and  moisture      ....  7.72 


100.00      " 

Efficacious  Disinfectants.  Sulphate 
of  aluminium  and  hydrochlorate  of 
aluminium  are  very  powerful  disinfect- 
ants and  antiseptics.  Their  solubility 
and  harmlessness  render  their  use  ad- 
missible under  all  circumstances.  The 
chloride  and  sulphate  of  iron  have  the 
same  action  as  the  above,  and,  further, 
they  absorb  the  sulphuretted  products 
of  decomposition.  For  this  reason  these 
salts  are  the  most  efficacious  of  disin- 
fectants. But  there  is  one  objection  to 
their  use,  namely,  that  the  iron  would 
injure  any  vegetation  with  which  the 
disinfected  matter  might  come  in  con- 
tact. The  best  disinfectant  for  general 
use  is  a  solution  containing  hydrochlo- 
rate of  aluminium  with  a  small  quantity 
of  chloride  of  iron.  The  hydrochlorate 
will  do  all  the  work  of  a  disinfectant 
and  antiseptic,  while  the  chloride  will 
absorb  the  sulphuretted  compounds. 

To  Cleanse  Lacquered  and  Stained 
Articles  of  Wood  use  a  lye  prepared 
from  3  parts  of  potash  and  1  of  calcined 
tartar  dissolved  in  24  of  soft  water.  The 
surface  of  the  article  to  be  cleansed  is 
moistened  with  the  lye  diluted  with 
water.  In  the  course  of  3  or  4  minutes 
the  adhering  dirt  will  be  loosened,  when 
the  article  should  be  thoroughly  washed 
with  soft  water. 

It  has  also  been  recommended  to 
cleanse  lacquered  articles  by  applying 
olive  oil  to  the  surface,  dusting  flour, 
prepared  buck's  horn,  or  infants'  pow- 
der upon  this,  and  rubbing  off  with  a 
soft  cloth.  By  this  not  only  all  stains 
and  dust  are  removed,  but  the  lustre  of 
the  article  is  also  restored  without  in- 
jury to  the  colors  and  gilding. 

To  Cut  and  Pierce  Rubber  Corks. 
This  can  be  easily  accomplished  by 
dipping  the  instrument  used  in  potash 
or  soda  lye. 

To  Protect  Stone  and  Brick  Walls 
from  Moisture.  Brush  the  wall  over 


with  a  hot  solution  of  |  pound  of  Cas- 
tile soap  in  1  gallon  of  water;  let  it  dry 
for  24  hours  and  then  apply  a  solution 
of  i  pound  of  alum  in  4  gallons  of  water. 

Rosin  as  a  Protection  against  Moist- 
ure in  Walls.  Heat  5  parts  of  turpen- 
tine and  stir  in  10  parts  of  pulverized 
common  glue  and  1  part  of  finely-sifted 
sawdust.  Cleanse  the  wall  and  heat  it 
by  means  of  a  soldering  lamp  or  other 
flame,  and  apply  the  rosin  composition, 
which  can  be  run  into  every  crack  and 
joint  by  keeping  the  wall  warm.  Smooth 
by  use  of  a  hot  iron.  An  addition  of 
boneblack  to  the  composition  will  give 
a  dark  color,  or  if  the  wall  is  to  be 
painted  a  light  color  can  be  had  by 
j  using  light-colored  rosin  and  woody 
fibre.  This  composition  is  also  good 
for  wood  buried  hi  the  ground  or  ex- 
posed to  moisture. 

To  Prevent  Rust  on  Iron.  Rub  1 
ounce  of  graphite  to  a  fine  powder,  add 
4}:  ounces  of  sulphate  of  lead,  1  ounce 
of  sulphate  of  zinc,  and  1  pound  of 
linseed-oil  varnish;  heat  the  whole  to 
the  boiling  point  and  stir  thoroughly. 
This  paint  can  be  used  for  all  metallic 
articles  exposed  to  the  action  of  the 
weather. 

To  Prevent  Wooden  Posts  from  Rot- 
ting. I.  Melt  together  in  an  iron 
boiler  50  parts  of  rosin,  40  of  powdered 
chalk,  and  4  of  linseed  oil ;  then  add  1 
part  of  natural  cupric  oxide  and  stir 
very  carefully  into  the  mixture  1  part 
of  sulphuric  acid.  Apply  with  a  stiff 
brush.  When  dry  the  mass  forms  a 
coating  as  hard  as' stone. 

II.  Melt  If  parts  of  rosin,  then  mix 
with  it  48  parts  of  fish  oil  and  1-V  of 
sulphur.  When  the  mixture  is  thor- 
oughly combined  and  liquid  add  suffi- 
cient ochre,  rubbed  up  with  linseed  oil, 
to  give  the  desired  shade  of  color.  Then 
apply  the  mass,  while  still  warm,  in  ;is 
thin  a  coat  as  possible,  and  in  a  few 
\  days,  when  the  first  coat  is  dry,  repeat 
I  the  operation. 

Excellent  Wash  for  Wood  and  Stone. 
The  following  receipt  has  been  thor- 
oughly tested  and  found  to  do  excellent 
service  :  Slake  30  pounds  of  burnt  lime 
in  a  suitable  vessel  by  covering  it  with 
water.  Dilute  the  resulting  milk  of 
lime  and  add  first  2  pounds  of  sulphate 
of  zinc  and  then  1  pound  of  common 
salt.  A  beautiful  cream  color  is 


HOUSEHOLD  AND  RURAL  ECONOMY. 


165 


obtained  by  adding  3  pounds  of  yellow 
ochre,  pearl  color  by  the  addition  of 
some  lampblack,  and  stone  color  by 
adding  4  pounds  of  umber  and  2  pounds 
of  lampblack.  The  whitewash  is  ap- 
plied in  the  usual  manner  with  a  brush. 

Brilliant  Whitewash  Closely  Re- 
sembling Paint.  Slake  £  bushel  of 
lime  with  boiling  water,  covering  it 
during  the  process  to  keep  in  the  steam. 
Strain  the  liquid  through  a  fine  sieve  or 
strainer,  and  add  to  it  8  quarts  of  salt 
previously  dissolved  in  warm  water,  2-j 
pounds  of  ground  rice  boiled  to  a  thin 
paste  and  stirred  in  boiling  hot,  i 
pound  of  powdered  Spanish  whiting, 
and  1  pound  of  clean  glue  which  has 
been  previously  dissolved  by  soaking 
it  well,  and  then  hang  the  whole  over 
a  slow  fire  in  a  small  kettle  within  a 
large  one  filled  with  water.  Add  5  gal- 
lons of  hot  water  to  the  mixture,  stir  it 
well,  and  let  it  stand  a  few  days  covered 
from  the  dust.  It  should  be  put  on 
quite  hot;  lor  this  purpose  it  can  be 
kept  in  a  boiler  on  a  portable  furnace. 
It  answers  as  well  as  oil  paint  for 
wood,  brick,  or  stone,  and  is  cheaper. 
It  retains  its  brilliancy  for  many  years. 
Colored  matter,  with  the  exception  of 
green,  may  be  put  in  it  and  made  of 
any  desired  shade. 

'Utilization  of  Chicken  Feathers. 
Cut  the  plume  portions  of  the 
feathers  from  the  stem.  The  former 
are  then  placed  in  quantities  in  a 
coarse  bag,  which,  when  quite  full,  is 
closed  and  subjected  to  a  thorough 
kneading  with  the  hands.  At  the  end 
of  five  minutes  the  feathers  become  dis- 
aggregated and  felted  together,  forming 
a  down  perfectly  homogeneous  and  of 
great  lightness.  It  is  even  lighter  than 
natural  eider  down,  because  the  latter 
contains  the  ribs  of  the  feathers,  which 
give  extra  weight.  The  material  thus 
prepared  is  worth  and  readily  sells  in 
Paris  for  about  20  francs  ($4.00)  a 
kilogramme  (2.2  pounds).  About  1£ 
ounces  of  this  down  can  be  obtained 
from  an  ordinary-sized  chicken. 
Through  the  winter  children  can  col- 
lect all  the  feathers  about  a  farm  and 
cut  the  ribs  out  as  has  been  stated.  By 
spring  time  a  large  quantity  of  down 
could  be  prepared,  which  could  be 
sold  to  upholsterers  or  employed  for 
domestic  uses.  Goose  and  turkey 


feathers  may  be  treated  and  utilized  in 
the  same  manner. 

The  chicken  down  forms  a  beautiful 
cloth  when  woven.  For  about  a  square 
yard  of  the  material  about  1£  pounds  of 
down  are  required.  The  fabric  is  said  to 
be  almost  indestructible,  as,  in  place  of 
fraying  or  wearing  out  at  folds,  it  seems 
to  telt  the  tighter.  It  takes  dye  readily 
and  is  thoroughly  water-proof. 

Preservation  of  Wooden  Labels. 
Wooden  labels  that  are  to  be  used  on 
trees  or  in  exposed  places  may  be  pre- 
served by  the  following  process :  Thor- 
oughly soak  the  pieces  of  wood  in  a 
strong  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron ;  then 
lay  them,  after  they  are  dry,  in  lime- 
water.  This  causes  the  formation  of 
sul] >hate  of  lime,  a  very  insoluble  salt, 
in  the  wood.  The  rapid  destruction  of 
the  labels  by  the  weather  is  thus  pre- 
vented. Bast,  mats,  twine,  and  other 
substances  used  in  tying  or  covering  up 
trees  and  plants  can  be  treated  and 
preserved  in  the  same  manner. 

Collodion  for  Plant  Slips.  Dip  the 
end  of  the  plant  slips  in  collodion  before 
setting  them  out.  The  collodion  should 
contain  twice  as  much  of  cotton  as 
the  ordinary  article  used  in  photog- 
raphy. Let  the  first  coat  dry  and  then 
dip  again.  After  planting  the  slips  the 
roots  will  develop  very  rapidly.  This 
method  is  especially  efficacious  with 
woody  slips,  as  geraniums,  fuchsias,  and 
similar  plants. 

To  Destroy  Stumps  of  Trees.  In  the 
autumn  bore  in  the  centre  of  the  stump 
a  vertical  hole  of  1  to  1£  inches  in  di- 
ameter and  about  18  inches  deep;  put 
in  1  to  H  ounces  of  saltpetre  and  fill 
with  water  and  then  plug  the  hole  tight. 
In  the  ensuing  spring  take  out  the  plug 
and  pour  in  about  10  ounces  of  petro- 
leum and  ignite  it.  The  stump  will 
smoulder  away  without  blazing  to  the 
very  extremities  of  the  roots,  leaving 
nothing  but  ashes.  [In  the  United 
States  clearing  of  lands  of  stumps  on 
an  extensive  scale  is  done  rapidly  and 
effectively  by  the  employment  of  dyna- 
mite cartridges.  W.] 

To  Prepare.  Beef  Tea.  Take  a  thin 
rump  steak  of  beef,  lay  it  upon  a  board 
and  with  a  case-knife  scrape  it.  In  this 
way  a  red  pulp  will  be  obtained  which 
contains  all  the  nutritious  portion  of 
the  steak.  Mix  this  pulp  thoroughly 


166 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


with  3  times  its  bulk  of  cold  water, 
stirring  until  the  pulp  is  completely 
diffused.  Put  the  whole  upon  a  moder- 


Creosote Ointment,  is  used  in  skin  af- 
fections. Mix  1  part  of  creosote  with  8 
of  lard. 

Elderberry  Ointment  is  used  as  a 
soothing  and  healing  application.  It  is 
prepared  by  boiling  1  part  of  elder  bios- 


ate  fire  and  allow  it  to  come  slowly  to 

a  boil,  stirring  all  the  time  to  prevent 

the  pulp  from  caking.     In  using  this 

do  not  strain  it,  but  stir  the  settlings    soms  with  1  of  lard  until  the  blossoms  be 

thoroughly  into  the   fluid.     One  to  3    come  pulpy,  and  then  pressing  through 

ounces  of  this  may  be  given  at  a  time. 

To  Disguise  the   Taste  of  Cod-liver 
Oil.    Mix  with  each  table-spoonful  of 


oil  12  drops  of  the  following  compound : 
Two  ounces  of  essence  of  lemon,  1  ounce 
of  sulphuric  ether,  and  4  ounce  each  of 
oils  of  caraway,  peppermint,  and  cloves. 

Remedy  for  Hoarseness.  Borax  is 
an  excellent  remedy  for  hoarseness  or 
loss  of  voice  common  among  public 
speakers  and  singers.  A  few  minutes 
before  any  continuous  exercise  of  the 
Tocal  organs  dissolve  a  small  lump  of 
borax  in  the  mouth  and  gradually  swal- 
low the  solution.  This  acts  upon  the 
orifice  of  the  glottis  and  the  vocal  cords 
precisely  as  "  wetting "  acts  upon  the 
notes  of  the  flute.  Five  grains  of  nitre 
taken  in  a  glass  of  water,  the  body  be- 
ing wrapped  in  extra  clothing,  will  ex- 
cite a  gentle  perspiration  for  an  entire 
night;  and  this  treatment  will  break 
up  a  cold,  if  employed  at  its  first  onset. 

Extract  of  Elder  Blossoms.  Take  1 
ounce  of  tincture  of  benzoin  and  add 
gradually  li  quarts  of  elder-blossom 
water. 

Belladonna  Ointment  is  used  .to  al- 
lay pain  in  cases  of  rheumatism,  boils, 
etc.  It  is  prepared  by  mixing  £  part  of 
extract  of  belladonna  with  1  of  lard. 

Cantharides  Ointment  is  used  to  keep 
blisters  open.  Boil  1  part  of  cantha- 
rides  in  12  of  distilled  water  to  J  its 
bulk.  Then  strain  and  add  15  parts  of 
rosin  cerate  to  it.  Evaporate  the  mixt- 
ure to  the  desired  consistency. 

Compound  Chloride  of  Sulphur  Oint- 
ment. Mix  8  parts  of  chloride  of  sul- 
phur, \  of  carbonate  of  potash,  30  of 
purified  lard,  and  i  of  essential  oil  of 
almonds. 

Compound  Lead  Ointment  is  used  for 
dressing  inflamed  ulcers.  Take  6  parts 
of  prepared  chalk,  6  of  diluted  acetic 
acid,  36  of  lead  plaster,  and  18  of  olive 
oil.  Melt  the  plaster  in  the  oil  at  a 
moderate  heat,  add  the  chalk  and  then 
the  acid,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  it 
10  cold. 


a  linen  cloth. 

Elemi  Ointment  is  stimulating,  and  is 
used  for  ulcers  and  to  promote  sup- 
puration. Take  3  parts  of  elemi,  3-1  of 
oil  of  turpentine,  6  of  lard,  and  i  of 
olive  oil.  Melt  the  elemi  and  lard  to- 
gether ;  take  the  mixture  from  the  fire, 
stir  in  immediately  the  turpentine  and 
the  oil,  and  strain  through  linen. 

Gall-nut  Ointment  is  used  for  haem- 
orrhoids ;  it  is  astringent  and  soothing. 
Mix  6  parts  of  pulverized  gall-nuts,  50 
of  lard,  and  i  of  powdered  opium. 

Hemlock  Ointment.  Boil  1  part  of 
fresh  hemlock  leaves  and  1  of  lard  un- 
til the  leaves  are  soft,  and  then  strain 
through  linen. 

Iodide  of  Lead  Ointment  is  applied 
in  cases  of  swollen  joints  and  scrofulous 
glands.  It  is  prepared  by  mixing  1 
part  of  iodide  of  lead  with  8  of  lard. 

Iodide  of  Mercury  Ointment  is  used 
for  dressing  scrofulous  ulcers.  Melt  2 
parts  of  white  wax  and  6  parts  of  lard 
together,  and  mix  with  it  1  part  of  iodide 
of  mercury. 

Iodide  of  Potassium  Ointment  is  used 
for  scrofulous  glands  and  ulcers.  Dis- 
solve 2  parts  of  iodide  of  potassium  in 
2  of  boiling  distilled  water,  and  mix  in 
15  of  lard. 

Iodide  of  Sulphur  Ointment  is  used 
for  the  cure  of  itch  and  other  cutaneous 
diseases.  It  is  prepared  by  mixing  i 
part  of  pulverized  iodide  of  sulphur  and 
8  of  lard. 

Lead  Ointments  are  applied  to  ex- 
ternal inflammations  wherever  a  remedy 
containing  lead  in  the  form  of  an  oint- 
ment is  admissible. 

a.  Litharge  Ointment.   One  part  of 
litharge,  1  of  strong  vinegar,  and  3  of 
olive  oil. 

b.  Prussian    Lead    Ointment.     Six 
parts  of  wax,  24  of  olive  oil,  3  of  lead 
vinegar,  and  6  of  distilled  water. 

c.  Saxon  Lead   Ointment.      Twelve 
parts  of  lead  vinegar   and  2  of  olive 

j  oil ;  or,    four  parts  of  lard  and  1  of 
i  lead  vinegar. 


HOUSEHOLD  AND  BURAL  ECONOMY. 


167 


d.  White  Lead  Ointment  consists  of 
lard,    mutton    suet,  white    lead,    and 
camphor, 

e.  Lead  Cerate,    Mix  6  parts  of  wax 
with  24  of  olive  oil  to  which  have  been 
added  3  parts  of  lead  vinegar  and  6  of 
distilled  water. 

Mercury  Ointment.  Take  12  parts 
of  mercury,  Hi  of  lard,  and  i  of  suet. 
Rub  the  mercury  with  the  suet  and  a 
little  lard  until  no  more  globules  of 
mercury  can  be  detected ;  then  add  and 
mix  with  it  the  remaining  lard.  The 
ointment  is  used  in  all  cases  where  an 
application  of  mercury  is  admissible. 

Opium  Ointment  is  used  as  a  sooth- 
ing dressing.  It  is  prepared  by  mix- 
ing 1  part  of  pulverized  opium  and  24 

Pitch  Ointment  is  used  as  a  stimu- 
lating application,  promoting  suppura- 
tion. Melt  together  equal  parts  of 
black  pitch,  wax,  and  rosin,  and  press 
through  a  linen  cloth. 

Savin  Ointment  is  used  for  keeping 
open  blisters  and  issues  (fontanels). 

Spermaceti  Ointment  is  applied  as  a 
cooling  dressing.  It  is  prepared  by 
melting  together  5  parts  of  spermaceti, 
If  of  white  wax,  and  14  of  olive  oil, 
constantly  stirred  until  it  is  cold. 

Sulphur  Ointment  is  used  for  the 
cure  of  itch.  Eub  the  affected  parts 
with  it  in  the  morning  and  evening. 
It  is  prepared  by  mixing  i  part  of  sul- 
phur with  1  of  lard. 

Sulphur  Ointment  (Compound)  is 
also  used  for  itch  and  other  cutaneous 
diseases.  Apply  twice  a  day,  morning 
and  evening,  by  rubbing  thoroughly 
into  the  affected  parts.  It  is  prepared 
by  mixing  together  4  parts  of  sulphur, 
1  of  pulverized  white  hellebore,  i  of 
saltpetre,  4  of  soft  soap,  and  12  of  lard. 

Tar  Ointment  is  also  used  for  the 
cure  of  itch,  scab,  etc.  Melt  1  part  of 
tar  and  1  of  lard,  and  press  through  a 
linen  cloth. 

Tartar  Emetic  Ointment  is  used  for 
producing  eruptions  on  the  skin  and  as 
a  counter-irritant.  It  is  prepared  by 
mixing  1  part  of  pulverized  tartar 
emetic  with  4  of  lard. 

Zinc  Ointment  is  used  for  inflamed 
eyelids,  sore  nipples,  and  also  for  ring- 
worm, etc.  It  is  prepared  by  intimately 
mixing  1  part  of  oxide  of  zinc  with  6 
of  lard. 


Ammonia  Liniment  is  used  as  a 
!  stimulating  application  on  ulcers  and 
contusions,  and  can  be  made  painless 
by  adding  a  little  extract  of  belladonna. 
It  is  prepared  by  shaking  1  part  of 
aqua  ammonia  with  2  of  olive  oil  until 
they  are  emulsionized. 

Camphor  Liniment,  used  as  a  stimu- 
lating application  in  sprains,  contusions, 


parts  of  aqua  ammonia,  and  thoroughly 
shaking  the  mixture. 

Compound  Camphor  Liniment  is 
more  active  than  the  simple  liniment. 
Dissolve  2£  parts  of  camphor  in  17 
parts  of  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  add  i 
part  of  oil  of  lavender  and  3  of  aqua 
ammonia,  and  shake  until  they  are  in- 
timately mixed.  In  case  the  pain  is 
very  severe,  i  part  of  its  volume  of 
tincture  of  opium  may  be  added. 

Lime  Liniment  is  often  used  for  alle- 
viating pain  caused  by  burns  and 
scalds.  Mix  10  parts  of  lime-water 
with  10  of  olive  oil. 

Opium  Liniment  is  used  as  an  ex- 
ternal means  of  soothing  when  opium 
cannot  be  administered  internally.  It 
is  frequently  mixed  with  the  compound 
camphor  liniment.  Mix  2  parts  of 
tincture  of  opium  with  6  of  soap  lini- 
ment. 

Soap  Liniment  is  used  for  the  same 
purposes  as  compound  camphor  lini- 
ment, but  is  not  as  active.  Take  2i 
parts  of  soap,  1  of  camphor,  18  of  spirit 
of  rosemary,  and  2  of  distilled  water. 
Mix  the  water  and  the  spirit,  then  add 
the  soap  and  camphor,  and  macerate 
until  the  solution  is  complete. 

Turpentine  Liniment,  a  stimulating 
application  used  for  burns.  Mix  2 
parts  of  soft  soap,  1  of  camphor,  and  6 
of  oil  of  turpentine. 

Verdigris  Liniment  acts  as  a  stimu- 
lant on  indolent  venereal  and  other 
ulcers.  Dissolve  1  part  of  pulverized 
verdigris  in  7  parts  of  vinegar,  and 
strain  through  linen  ;  add  14  parts  of 
honey,  and  evaporate  the  mixture  to 
the  requisite  consistency. 

Betton's  Celebrated  Cattle  Liniment 
(Critical  Oil).  Mix  1  part  of  oil  of 
rosemary,  8  of  tar,  and  16  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine. 

Turkish  Balsam  for  Fresh  Wounds. 


168 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Pulverize  and  mix  2|  ounces  of  ben- 
zoin, li  ounces  of  tolu  balsam,  1  ounce 
of  storax,  a  like  quantity  of  frankin- 
cense and  myrrh,  and  1 V  ounces  of  aloes. 
Pour  1  pint  of  rectified  spirit  of  wine 
over  the  mixture  and  let  it  digest  for  3 
days  at  a  moderate  heat,  and  then 
quietly  settle  for  6  days,  when  the  fluid 
is  filtered  off  and  kept  in  well-closed 
glass  bottles. 

To  Soften  Hard  Water.  Pulverize  2 
parts  of  calcined  soda,  1  of  bicarbonate 
of  soda,  and  mix  them  with  2  parts  of  a 
solution  of  silicate  of  soda.  Let  the 
mixture  stand  for  24  hours,  during 
which  time  it  becomes  generally  so 
hard  that  it  can  be  rubbed  into  a  pow- 
der. One  to  li  pounds  of  the  mixture 
will,  as  a  general  rule,  suffice  for  25 
gallons  of  hot  water,  which  can  then  at 
once  be  used  for  washing,  etc. 

To  Keep  Talloio  and  Lard  from  be- 
coming Rancid.  The  tallow  or  lard  is 
first  treated  with  carbonate  of  soda  in 
the  proportion  of  2  pounds  of  soda  to 
every  1000  pounds  of  lard,  and  is  then 
subjected  to  a  digestion  with  alum  in 
the  following  manner  :  Ten  pounds  of 
alum  are  dissolved  in  500  pounds  of 
water  and  1  pound  of  slaked  lime  added 
to  the  solution,  which  is  then  boiled. 
This  solution  is  stirred  well  with  1000 
pounds  of  lard,  at  a  temperature  of  150° 
to  195°  F.,  for  about  \  hour.  The  liquor 
is  then  separated  from  the  lard  and  the 
lard  treated  with  the  same  amount  of 
pure  water.  This  lard  will  keep  for  an 
exceedingly  long  time.  This  treatment 
has  also  the  advantage  of  restoring  the 
original  flavor  and  of  producing  a  lard 
of  greater  whiteness. 

Rmcid  Batter  may  be  purified  by 
melting  it  and  removing  any  deposit; 
then  boiling  it  with  lime-water  and 
.allowing  it  to  settle;  and  finally,  treat- 
ing the  liquor  thus  clarified  by  suddenly 
cooling. 

Another  Process  of  Purifying  R'incid 
Butter  is  as  follows:  Melt  the  butter 
over  a  moderate  fire  and  add  to  every 
10  pounds  of  butter  5J  ounces  of  fresh, 
pulverized  wood  charcoal,  A-  oiince  of 
pulverized  chalk,  1  table-spoonful  of 
honey,  and  a  few  carrots  cut  up  in 
pieces.  Keep  this  mixture  in  a  melted 
state  for  A  hour,  constantly  stirring  it 
and  removing  the  scum.  Then  pour 
the  liquid  butter  through  a  fine  strainer. 


Butter  tlms  treated  is,  when  cold,  ino- 
dorous and  has  an  agreeable  taste.  The 
charcoal  absorbs  the  badly-smelling 
gases,  the  chalk  neutralizes  the  acid 
which  may  be  present,  the  honey  im- 
proves the  taste,  and  the  carrots  impart 
a  yellow  color  to  the  butter.  When  the 
butter  is  cold  take  it  from  the  vessel 
and  cut  off  the  sediment  on  the  bottom, 
sprinkle  with  fresh  water  and  keep  it  in 
a  cool  place.  It  is  recommended  to 
place  the  vessel  containing  the  butter  in 
another  filled  with  fresh  water,  or,  what 
is  still  better,  in  a  trough  through  which 
runs  a  current  of  fresh  water. 

To  Purify  Rancid  Fat.  Heat  to  the 
boiling  point  10  pounds  of  the  fat  to  be 
purified,  1  gallon  of  water,  and  1  ounce 
of  sulphuric  acid  ;  let  the  mixture  boil 
for  i  hour  and  then  remove  it  from  the 
fire.  Now  add  4£  ounces  of  pulverized 
chalk  and  let  the  mixture  cool.  The 
purified  fat  separates  from  the  gypsum 
water  and  the  sulphate  of  lime  (gyp- 
sum) which  has  been  formed,  and  can 
be  again  used. 

Mongol's  Powder  for  Purifying  trie 
Air  in  /Stables  is  much  used  in  Eng- 
land. It  keeps  the  stables  wholesome 
by  preventing  the  putrefaction  of  ex- 
crement and  urine.  It  is  prepared  by 
treating  magnesian  lime  with  sulphuric 
acid  and  adding  5  per  cent,  of  carbolic 
acid.  The  powder  obtained  in  this  way 
is  scattered  upon  the  manure  and  in  the 
stalls. 

The  Removal  of  Ford  Air  from  Wells  is 
easily  accomplished  by  fastening  a  line 
to  the  handle  of  an  innbrella  and  low- 
ering it  open,  handle  upwards,  into  the 
well  and  quickly  drawing  it  up  again. 
By  repeating  this  several  times  the  foul 
air  will  be  removed. 

How  to  Keep  Ice  without  an  Icehouse. 
Select  a  dry,  shady  spot.  Dig  a  ditch 
for  carrying  off  the  waste  water  and 
over  it  place  a  lath-work.  Upon  this 
lay  a  thick  layer  of  moss,  pine  leaves, 
or  sawdust.  Now  pile  upon  this  the 
cakes  of  ice,  the  larger  the  better  and 
cut  or  sawed  square,  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  leave  as  few  spaces  as  possible, 
filling  up  those  which  may  occur  with 
fine  sawdust,  in  order  to  prevent  the  air 
from  penetrating  into  the  interior  of  the 
pile.  It  is  best  to  build  the  stack  in 
the  form  of  a  pyramid.  When  com- 
pleted it  is  covered  with  straw,  moss, 


HOUSEHOLD  AND  RURAL  ECONOMY. 


159 


leaves,  etc.,  as  thick  and  close  as  possi- 
ble, a  layer  of  earth  being  thrown  upon 
it  to  secure  the  covering  and  as  further 
protection  of  the  ice. 

How  to  Keep  Fruits  in  Icehouses. 
Lay  the  fruits  upon  cotton  in  tin  boxes 
without  any  packing  about  them,  shut 
down  the  lid  and  set  them  upon  the  ice, 
not  buried  in  it.  After  the  fruits  have 
been  long  on  the  ice  they  should  not  be 
brought  out  long  before  they  are  used, 
as  tiiey  do  not  keep  long  afterward 
without  showing  specks.  This  process 
is  of  course  only  intended  for  tender 
fruits,  as  }>eacnes,  nectarines,  etc. 
Peaches  have  been  ke|4  in  this  way 
more  than  a  month  after  they  were 
dead  ripe,  and  nectarines  nearly  2 
months.  Tender-fleshed  melons,  which 
will  not  keep  a  week  in  the  fruit  room 
in  summer,  will  keep  a  month  in  an 
icehouse. 

Substitute  for  Coffee.  A  substance 
resembling  coffee  in  appearance  a»d 
taste  can  be  made  by  separating  the 
seeds  from  the  pulp  of  persimmons, 
cleansing  them,  and  afterward  roasting 
and  grinding  them  in  the  same  manner 
as  coffee. 

To  Preserve  Canvas,  Cordage,  tic. 
Dissolve  1  pound  of  sulphate  of  zinc  in 
40  gallons  of  water  and  then  add  1 
pound  of  sal-soda.  After  these  ingre- 
dients are  dissolved  add  2  ounces  of 
tartaric  acid.  The  canvas,  etc.,  should 
be  soaked  in  this  solution  for  24  hours 
and  then  dried  without  wringing. 

Stove-polishing  Compound.  Mix  2 
parts  of  copperas,  1  of  boneblack,  1  of 
black  lead  with  sufficient  water  to  form 
a  creamy  paste.  This  will  produce  a 
very  enduring  polish  on  a  stove  or  other 
iron  article,  and  after  2  applications  it 
will  not  require  polishing  again  for  a 
long  time,  as  the  copperas  will  produce 
a  jet-black  enamel  and  cause  the  black 
lead  to  permanently  adhere  to  the  iron. 

Wig  gin's  Process  of  Purifying  Lard 
and  Tallow.  Heat  the  melted  fat  with 
some  sulphuric  acid  of  1.3  to  1.45  speci- 
fic gravity,  when  the  fat  will  separate 
itself  in  a  pure  condition  from  the  im- 
purities and  membranous  substances. 

Manure  Salt  from  Urine.  By  com- 
pounding urine  with  hydrochlonite  of 
magnesia  a  precipitate  of  phosphate  of 
ammonia  and  magnesia  is  formed  in  a 
few  days,  which  increases  considerably 


in  4  weeks,  when  it  is  separated  from 
the  fluid  and  dried.  In  this  way  7  per 
cent,  of  manure  salt  is  obtained. 

Solution  of  Guano  fur  l^ioicers.  Dis- 
solve 1  pound  of  Peruvian  guano  in  5 
gallons  of  rain  water  and  wet  the  plants 

j  with  it  twice  a  week. 

Substit u t e  fo r  G nan o.  M ix  350  pa rts 
of  bone-dust,  97  of  sulphate  of  ammo- 
nia, 19  of  pearl  ash  (or  78  of  wood  ash), 

i  78  of  rock  or  common  salt,  19  of  dry 
sulphate  of  soda,  and  40  of  crude  sul- 
phate of  magnesia. 

M' mure  from  Coal  Ashes.  Place  1 
part  of  fresh  unslaked  lime  in  the  cen- 
tre of  a  heap  of  100  parts  of  coal  ashes 
and  let  it  remain  until  it  is  entirely 
slaked.  After  12  hours  work  the  heap 
through  thoroughly  and  then  store  it  in 
a  dry  place  for  future  use. 

Manure  for  Turnips,  l\utabagas,  etc. 
Mix  100  parts  of  common  salt  with  300 
of  lime  and  let  the  mixture  lie  for  a 
few  months.  When  sowing  the  seed 
strew  the  mixture  into  the  furrows. 

Stockhard's  Man  n  re  Mixture  for  Veg- 
etable Gardens.  Mix  300  parts  of  peat 
waste,  30  of  burned  lime,  30  of  pulver- 
ized brick,  30  of  wood  ashes,  2  of  com- 
mon salt,  36  of  horn  shavings,  and  45 
of  leaves.  The  above  mixture  suffices 

i  for  250  square  yards  and  produces  ex- 

1  cellent  results. 

Manure  Powder  from  Bl&od.  Pul- 
verize 20  parts  of  plaster  of  Paris  and 
12  of  calcined  sulphate  of  soda  and  mix 
them  in  100  parts  of  blood  in  a  large 

!  boiler,  and  add  5  parts  of  sulphuric 
acid  at  60°  Beaume  in  small  portions. 
The  product  will  be  a  spongy  mass 
which  is  dried  and  ground  to  powder. 

Manure  from  Waste  Animal  Sub- 
stances. Chop  100  parts  of  solid  animal 
substance  and  treat  with  18  parts  of  a 
solution  made  of  1  part  sulphuric  acid 

I  at  66°  Beaume  and  2  of  water,  and' 
grind  the  mixture  for  an  hour,  and  after 
standing  6  hours  treat  it  with  8  per 

i  cent,   of  pulverized  quicklime.      Sul- 

!  phate  of  lime  is  thus  formed  in  which 
the  animal  matter  remains  inclosed. 

j  After  standing  for  6  hours  the  whole 

j  is  moulded  into  brick-shaped  masses, 

which   are  drained  in   the  perforated 

moulds  jn  which  they  are  prepared  and 

then  dried  and  pulverized. 

Liquid  and  semi-liquid  masses  like 

i  brains  or  blood  are  treated  with  9  »er 


170 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


sent,  of  sulphuric  acid  at  66°  Beaume 
and  12  per  cent,  of  quicklime,  the  rest 
of  the  process  being  the  same. 


ILLUMINATING  MATERIALS. 

Incombustible  Wicks.  Alumina,  kao- 
lin, quartz,  or  combinations  of  calcium, 
magnesium,  or  aluminium  are  ground 
fine  and  intimately  mixed  with  dragon's 
blood  and  colophony  or  other  resins  in 
connection  with  saltpetre,  permanga- 
nate of  potash,  or  other  combinations 
rich  in  oxygen.  The  mixture  is  then 
compounded  with  water  until  the  mass 
is  plastic  and  capable  of  being  kneaded. 
From  this  composition,  which  should 
be  as  homogeneous  as  possible,  the 
wicks  are  formed,  then  dried  in  the  air, 
and  gradually  exposed  to  a  moderate 
red  heat  for  1  or  2  hours. 

The  wicks  may  also  be  intermingled 
with  fibres  of  asbestos,  or  surrounded 
with  a  tissue  of  the  same  material.  In 
the  latter  case  it  is  not  necessary  to  ex- 
pose the  wicks  to  a  red  heat,  as*  this  is 
done  in  using  them. 

Metallic  Wicks  are  prepared  by  add- 
ing 1  or  more  threads  of  zinc  wire  to 
the  ordinary  wick  of  silk,  cotton,  linen, 
or  asbestos.  The  purpose  of  this  is  to 
increase  the  vigor  and  intensity  of  the 
flame  without  a  larger  consumption  of 
fuel,  or  to  obtain  equal  light  with  a 
considerable  saving  of  fuel.  It  has  been 
known  for  many  years  that  zinc,  when 
heated,  is  consumed  with  a  brilliant 
white  flame,  but  this  is  the  first  time, 
to  our  knowledge,  that  this  property  of 
zinc  has  been  used  for  this  purpose. 
Suppose  a  wick  has  an  illuminating 
power  of  1,  and  one  or  more  threads  of 
zinc  wire,  which  are  brought  to  a  red 
heat,  have  been  added,  they  are  con- 
sumed at  the  same  time  with  the  wick, 
increasing  the  illuminating  power  by  2, 
3,  etc. ;  it  is  therefore  self-evident  that 
with  the  same  expense  of  wick  and  fuel 
an  increase  in  illuminating  power  must 
be  the  result.  In  fact,  experiments  we 
have  made  have  shown  that  with  7  cot- 
ton and  1  zinc  thread  an  illumination 
equal  to  that  from  20  cotton  threads 
was  obtained.  Wicks  for  all  kinds  of 
candles  and  lamps  may  be  prepared  in 
this  manner. 

Material  for  Preparing  Incombustible 


Torches.  Mix  3  parts  of  alumina,  1  of 
bauxite,  4  of  sawdust,  and  4  of  wheat 
chaff  with  water  into  a  stiff  dough,  and 
mould  into  any  desired  shape.  Sur- 
round this  core  with  a  jacket  made  of 
3  parts  of  alumina,  1  of  bauxite,  2  of 
sawdust,  and  2  of  wheat  chaff,  and  pro- 
vided with  draught  holes.  A  small 
saucer  of  fat  clay  impervious  to  petro- 
leum is  placed  around  the  foot  of  the 
torch  to  catch  any  falling  drops  of  pe- 
troleum, with  which  the  torch  is  satu- 
rated before  being  ignited.  A  small 
cylinder  of  the  same  kind  of  clay  and 
lined  with  sheet  iron  is  inserted  in  the 
centre  of  the  torch  for  the  reception  of 
the  handle.  When  entirely  dry,  the 
torch  is  subjected  to  a  red  heat  for  16 
hours,  whereby  the  sawdust  and  wheat 
chaff  are  completely  consumed,  leaving 
the  mass  full  of  pores  and  adapted  for 
a  greedy  absorption  of  oil.  When  the 
torch  is  entirely  dry,  and  is  to  be  used, 
it  is  soaked,  as  stated,  in  petroleum  and 
ignited.  It  will  last  for  an  indefinite 
time. 

Guxfrom  Cork.  Illumination  by  gas 
prepared  from  waste  of  cork  has  been 
successfully  tried  in  the  Theatre 
National  de  I' Opera  in  Paris.  The 
waste  is  heated  in  retorts,  and  the  pro- 
duct of  distillation  purified  by  being 
conducted  through  a  water  reservoir. 
The  gas  possesses  great  illuminating 
power,  and  is  free  from  sulphuretted 
hydrogen  and  other  objectionable  ad- 
mixtures. 

Naphtha  Ether.  A  new  Illuminat- 
ing Material.  By  mixing  benzole  with 
alcohol  or  wood  spirit,  a  body  is  formed 
which  burns  without  forming  soot. 

Air-tight  and  Flexible  Tissue  for  Dry 
Gas  Meters.  Any  kind  of  tissue  is 
brushed  over  with  a  fluid  prepared  in  the 
following  manner :  A  solution  obtained 
by  boiling  500  parts  of  gelatine,  750  of 
glycerine,  and  1500  of  water  is  com- 
pounded with  40  parts  of  bichromate 
of  potash  and  4  of  an  alcoholic  solution 
of  salicylic  acid,  and  the  whole  stored 
in  a  dark  room  until  it  is  to  be  used. 
After  the  tissue  has  been  painted  with 
the  fluid  so  that  all  pores  are  closed,  it 
is  exposed  to  the  light  until  it  has  be- 
come entirely  white.  Samples  of  such 
material  have  been  entirely  indifferent 
to  the  action  of  sulphide  of  hydrogen, 
bisulphide  of  carbon,  glycerine,  alcohol, 


ILLUMINATING  MATERIALS. 


171 


ammonia,  creosote,  etc.,  for  more  than  a 
year,  and  have  lost  nothing  in  elasticity. 

To  Detect  a  Leak  in  a  Gas  Pipe  it  is 
recommended  to  bring  a  little  soap 
water  upon  the  suspected  place;  the 
formation  of  soap  bubbles  will  show 
where  and  how  large  the  leak  is. 

Improvement  in  Dry  Meters.  The 
diaphragms  used  in  dry  gas  meters  are 
usually  made  of  leather,  but  these  are 
acted  upon  by  the  gas  in  course  of  time 
and  do  not  register  correctly.  To 
remedy  this,  diaphragms  made  from 
parchment  paper  are  substituted  for  the 
leather.  The  parchment  paper  is  ob- 
tained by  treating  cotton  or  linen  paper 
with  equal  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  and 
water  for  a  few  minutes,  washing  thor- 
oughly with  water,  and  then  saturating 
with  equal  parts  of  glycerine,  acetate 
of  potassium,  and  water. 

Apparatus  for  Manufacturing  Illu- 
minating Gas  from  Li  groin  and  Air 
by  the  Cold  Method.  The  ligroin  is  in- 
troduced through  the  tube  Z  (Fig.  26), 
and  gets  under  the  sieve  c  through  the 
valve  o  provided  with  the  float  r,  by 
passing  the  plates  /,  which  are  covered 
with  porous  substances.  When  the 
ligroin  has  reached  a  corresponding 
high  level  it  lifts  the  float  r,  whereby 
the  valve  o  is  closed  and  the  supply 
stopped.  The  air  enters  through  the 
tube  ra  provided  with  the  valve  x,  gets 
under  the  bell  C,  and  lifts  the  latter  up 
until  it  has  reached  the  highest  admis- 
sible point.  When  this  is  the  case  the 
valve  x  is  closed  by  the  self-acting 
hinge-joint  arrangement  S,  and  the  sup- 
ply of  air  shut  off.  As  both  the  valves 
o  and  x  are  automatic,  the  apparatus 
works  with  great  regularity.  The  air 
introduced  reaches  the  ligroin  through 
the  tube  k,  passes  over  the  plates  /, 
where  it  is  carburetted  and  passes  out 
through  the  tube  g. 

The  machine  may,  if  necessary,  be 
connected  with  a  heating  apparatus. 

Purification  of  Illuminating  Gas. 
The  process  of  freeing  gas  from  am- 
monia by  the  dry  method  consists  in 
conducting  the  gas  through  a  porous 
mixture  of  sulphate  of  lime  and  phos- 
phate of  lime  with  or  without  a  per- 
centage of  phosphate  of  iron.  The  sub- 
stance is  produced  by  treating  super- 
phosphate with  aqua  ammonia  and 
Vying  the  mixture. 


Preparation  of   Wicks  for  Stearine 
Candles.    The   following  process  has 


Fig.  26. 

always  given  satisfactory  results.  The 
wick  is  laid  for  4  hours  in  warm  water 
acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid,  when, 
it  is  wrung  out  and  dried  by  means  of 
hot  air  for  24  hours.  It  is  then  placed 
in  a  bath  consisting  of  1000  parts  of 
rain  water,  41  of  boracic  acid,  and  186 
of  crystallized  sulphate  of  ammonia, 
and  should  be  frequently  turned.  After 
it  has  been  taken  from  the  bath  it  is 
dried  for  72  hours. 

"  Melanyl "  Candles  consist  of  equal 
parts  of  stearine  and  hard  paraffine. 
This  candle  combines  the  pleasantness 
of  the  stearine  and  paraffme  candle 
without  the  disagreeable  features  of  the 
latter. 

To  Coat  Tallow  Candles  with  a  Hard 
Substance  which  will  not  crack.  The 
candles  are  coated  by  successive  dip- 
pings into  the  following  3  mixtures : 

I.  Melt  1  part  of  dammar  resin,  2  of 


172 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


•white  rosin,  10  of  stearic  acid,  44  of 
good  tallow,  and  3  of  camphor. 

II.  Melt  5  parts  of  dammar  resin,  2 
of  white  pitch,  10  of  stearic  acid,  24  of 
tallow,  and  3  of  camphor. 

III.  Melt  2  parts  of  white  wax,  10  of 
stearic  acid,  5  of  tallow,  and  3  of  cam- 
phor. 

To  Color  Paraffine,  Wax,  Stearic 
Acid,  etc.,  Black.  The  materials  are 
melted  and  digested  for  some  minutes 
with  coarsely  powdered  or  bruised 
anacardium  nuts  (the  fruit  of  Anacar- 
dium  orientale).  This  nut  contains  a 
black,  fluid,  vegetable  fat,  which  com- 
bines intimately  with  the  fused  candle 
material  and  does  not  injure  the  illu- 
minating power  of  the  candles. 

Coloring  Tallow.  Grohdaus  rejects 
as  a  general  rule  the  coloring  of  tallow 
to  be  used  for  candles,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  giving  the  candles  a  bluish- 
white  tint.  He  claims  that  the  color- 
ing of  candles  is  only  advisable  if  they 
are  to  be  used  shortly  after  being  manu- 
factured. For  this  he  gives  the  follow- 
ing receipts :  To  color  tallow  blue,  rub 
it  up  with  the  finest  ultramarine  at  a 
temperature  of  from  120°  to  145°  F. 
The  most  common  method  of  coloring 
it  green  is  with  sulphate  of  copper  dis- 
solved in  water  and  stirred  through  the 
tallow ;  this  serves  also  for  clarifying. 
If  the  tallow  will  not  take  the  color, 
some  older  tallow  must  be  added.  For 
100  pounds  of  tallow  4£  ounces  of  sul- 
phate of  copper  are  generally  taken. 
It  may  also  be  colored  green  with  ver- 
digris treated  in  the  same  manner  as 
ultramarine.  To  color  red,  the  boiling 
hot  tallow  is  poured  over  heuna  (al- 
(cauna  root,  whereby  it  assumes  a  dark 
red  color.  All  possible  tints  can  then 
be  produced  by  adding  white  tallow. 
The  tallow  is  colored  yellow  by  adding 
unbleached  palm  oil  having  a  reddish 
tint,  and  also  with  annotto. 

Junemann's  Process  of  Producing 
White  and  Hard  Tallow  Candles  Burn- 
ing with  a  Large  Flame  and  Consuming 
the  Wick.  Add  an  equal  quantity  by 
weight  of  water  to  the  tallow  and  melt  it 
in  a  vat  by  introducing  steam.  Then  add 
gradually  and  in  very  small  portions  at 
a  time,  the  milk  of  lime  prepared  from 
14  to  20  per  cent,  of  quicklime  and  the 
requisite  quantity  of  water,  and  keep 
the  mass  in  constant  motion  by  stirring. 


After  4  hours'  saponification  will  have 
progressed  so  far  that  the  stirring  im- 
plement can  no  longer  be  moved,  bu  j 
the  introduction  of  steam  is  continued 
for  1  or  2  hours  longer  until  the  mass 
has  the  appearance  of  grits.  The  steam 
is  then  shut  off,  and  the  yellowish, 
sweetish  water,  which  remains  on  the 
bottom  of  the  vat  and  contains  the 
glycerine,  is  drawn  off.  The  soap, 
when  cold,  is  pulverized  between  2  iron 
fluted  rollers,  and  the  powder  brought 
into  another  vatalso  heated  by  steam  and 
containing  28  to  30  percent,  of  concen- 
trated sulphuric  acid  of  66°  B.,  reduced 
with  water  to  25°  B.  In  this  the  soap 
powder  is  boiled  for  4  hours,  whereby 
the  lime  contained  in  the  soap  combines 
with  the  sulphuric  acid  and  is  precipi- 
tated as  gypsum.  The  sebacic  acids 
are  then  brought  into  one  or  several 
smaller  vats  and,  when  nearly  cool,  3 
per  cent,  of  nitrous  acid  is  added,  and 
the  compound  constantly  stirred  until 
the  sebacic  acids  are  entirely  congealed. 
The  nitrous  acid  is  obtained  as  follows  : 
Add  water  to  concentrated  nitric  acid 
until  it  shows  22°  B.,  and  then  bring  it 
into  WoulfPs  bottles  connected  by  a  gas 
tube  with  a  cast-iron  retort.  Place  in 
the  retort  5  per  cent,  of  finely-pulver- 
ized sugar  and  20  per  cent,  of  dilute 
sulphuric  acid,  and  heat  until  no  more 
red  vapors  pass  over,  whereby  the  acid 
in  the  bottles,  which  should  be  kept 
cool,  by  absorbing  nitrous  acid  gradu- 
ally assumes  a  blue,  then  a  green  to 
dark  green  color,  this  being  the  right 
moment  of  interrupting  the  operation 
and  adding  the  acid  to  the  fat.  After 
thoroughly  mixing  and  adding  a  few 
strips  of  zinc,  the  fat  is  brought  into 
another  vat  and  boiled  for  1  to  2  hours 
by  introducing  steam,  the  process  being 
interrupted  3  or  4  times  during  the 
operation  by  shutting  off  the  steam  for 
5  to  6  minutes  each  time.  Finally, 
when  a  sample  taken  from  the  vat 
indicates  that  the  fat  has  assumed  a 
dark  yellow  color  and  a  considerable 
degree  of  hardness,  add  a  few  bucket- 
fuls  of  water,  let  it  boil  for  i  hour 
longer,  and  then  allow  it  to  stand 
quietly  to  settle. 

The  sebacic  acids  are  finally  brought 
into  a  distilling  apparatus  and  distilled 
by  the  action  of  an  abundant  current  of 
superheated  steam,  and  are  then  washed 


ILLUMINATING  MATERIALS. 


173 


Several  times  in  water  acidulated  with 
4  of  1  per  cent,  of  oxalic  acid  in  a  vat 
heated  by  steam,  when  they  are  left 
standing  quietly  and  finally  filtered 
through  a  thick  woollen  cloth  or  felt. 

The  sebacic  acids  treated  in  this  way 
have  lost  their  original  appearance  and 
present  now  a  white  and  very  hard 
mass,  feeling  but  slightly  greasy. 

To  prepare  candles  of  the  finest 
quality,  the  distilled  sebacic  acids  must 
first  be  pressed  cold  and  then  hot. 
The  press-cakes  contain  70  per  cent,  of 
the  tallow  used,  and  as  regards  external 
qualities  are  equal  to  stearic  acid,  dif- 
fering from  the  latter  only  in  their 
melting  point  being  a  few  degrees 
lower. 

The  moulds  should  be  slightly  heated 
and  the  tallow  stirred  until  it  has  as- 
sumed a  milky  appearance  before  be- 
ing poured  into  the  moulds.  No  wax 
is  added.  The  three-cord  plaited  wicks 
used  are  first  boiled  for  10  minutes  in  a 
Solution  of  11 3  ounces  of  glassy  phos- 
phoric acid  and  1£  ounces  of  boracic 
acid  to  every  100  pounds  of  water,  and 
then  slowly  dried. 

Fabrication  of  Stearine.  Candles  until- 
out  the  Use  of  Presses  and  other  Expen- 
sive Machinery.  Heat  10  to  20  per  cent, 
of  good  candle  tallow  in  a  thoroughly 
cleansed  boiler.  When  melted  ex- 
tinguish the  fire  and  allow  the  tallow 
to  stand  until  a  thin  film  is  formed  up- 
on the  surface.  Then  add  2  per  cent, 
of  soda  lye  of  30°  B.,  and  stir  until  the 
mass  has  acquired  the  consistency  of 
soap  prepared  in  the  cold  way.  The 
fire  is  now  rekindled  and  the  compound 
brought  to  the  boiling  point.  The  soap 
by  boiling  is  again  decomposed  and  a 
flaky  precipitate,  containing  the  im- 
purities which  must  be  removed  from 
the  tallow,  is  formed.  By  allowing  the 
tallow  to  settle  for  some  time  it  becomes 
clear  and  nearly  colorless.  In  this 
state  it  can  be  advantageously  used  for 
lubricating  machinery.  But  for  the  : 
manufacture  of  candles  it  requires  ! 
further  treatment,  as  it  still  contains  I 
traces  of  soap,  which  are  as  injurious 
as  impure  tallow.  For  this  purpose  it 
is  brought  into  a  copper  boiler  and 
clarified  with  acidulated  water  of  1°  to 
2°  B,  As  long  as  it  contains  traces  of 
soap,  a  froth,  which  does  not  dissolve, 
appears  on  the  surface.  The  addition 


of  acidulated  water  is  continued  until 
the  froth  has  entirely  disappeared,  when 
it  may  be  assumed  that  the  soap  is  de- 
composed. But  it  is  best  to  make  sure 
of  it  by  a  test.  For  this  purpose  draw 
off  some  of  the  fluid  from  the  bottom  of 
the  boiler  and  test  it  with  litmus  pa- 
j  per;  if  this  is  not  reddened  the  boiling 
i  must  be  continued  with  a  further  ad- 
dition of  acidulated  water.  When  lit- 
mus paper  is  reddened  by  a  sample  the 
tallow  is  allowed  to  settle;  the  acid 
water  is  then  drawn  off  and  the  fat 
boiled  again  with  fresh  water. 

The  oleine  and  stearine  are  then 
separated  in  the  following  manner:  A 
vat  is  required,  which  is  provided  with 
a  false  bottom  having  holes  i  inch  in 
diameter,  and  placed  about  4  inches 
above  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  and  with 
a  faucet  between  the  two  bottoms. 
Place  in  it  equal  quantities  of  the  tal- 
low and  boiling  water,  and  cover  the 
vat  to  prevent  rapid  cooling.  The  mass 
is  allowed  to  stand  for  2  or  3  days  ac- 
cording to  quantity,  until  a  thermome- 
ter dipped  into  the  upper  layer  of  the 
tallow  shows  a  temperature  of  70°  to 
75°  F.  When  this  is  the  case  the  faucet 
j  is  opened,  the  water  in  the  lower  part 
of  the  vat  running  off  first,  then  the 
oleine,  while  the  crystallized  stearine 
remains  upon  the  false  bottom  and  is 
ready  for  moulding.  This  is  done  in 
the  same  manner  as  tallow  candles,  but 
at  a  higher  temperature.  The  mass, 
which  should  have  a  milky  appearance, 
must  be  constantly  stirred.  Three- 
corded  plaited  wicks  are  used. 

New  Automatic  Gas-lighter.  This 
consists  of  a  film  of  collodion  incor- 
porated with  platinum  black  (finely- 
divided  metallic  platinum).  It  is  pre- 
pared as  follows :  Pour  a  somewhat 
concentrated  solution  of  gun-cotton  up- 
on a  glass  plate  and,  as  soon  as  the  col- 
lodion film  has  acquired  some  con- 
sistency, scatter  upon  it  not  too  thin  a 
layer  of  platinum  black,  and  to  prevent 
the  latter  from  becoming  heated  in  con- 
sequence of  the  evaporation  of  the  sol- 
vent, quickly  cover  the  whole  with 
another  glass  plate.  By  inserting  a 
small  piece  of  the  film,  when  thor- 
oughly dried  out,  in  the  upper  part  of 
an  ordinary  gas  burner,  and  turning  on 
the  gas,  the  latt*>r  will  be  immediately 
ignited. 


174 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


IMITATIONS,  SUBSTITUTES,  ETC. 

Artificial  Leather  for  Lithographers1 
Rollers.  The  following  mass,  pre- 
viously melted  in  a  water-bath,  is  poured 
around  a  core  about  4  inch  less  in  diam- 
eter than  the  mould : 

Syrup 20  parts. 

Glue 20    " 

Saltpetre 3     ' 

Sugar 3     " 

Water 5    " 

Oil  of  almonds 1  part. 

Chrome  yellow 1     " 

The  mass,  when  cold,  is  taken  from 
the  mould,  placed  for  10  hours  in  a 
solution  of  1  part  of  sulphate  of  alum- 
ina and  1  of  potash  in  10  of  water,  when 
it  is  dried  in  the  air  for  4  to  6  days. 

Vegetable  Ivory  is  obtained  in  large 
quantities  from  the  kernel  of  a  nut  of  a 
variety  of  palm  (Phytelephus  makro- 
carpa)  indigenous  to  Central  and  South 
America  and  Africa.  The  green  hull 
of  the  unripe  nut  encloses  a  watery  fluid 
having  a  bitter  taste,  which,  gradually 
thickening,  forms  the  kernel.  The 
semi-liquid  fluid,  mixed  with  water  and 
sugar,  is  used  in  South  America  as  a 
favorite,  refreshing,  and  wholesome 
beverage. 

Substitute  for  Horn,  Hard  Rubber, 
Ivory,  etc.  By  stirring  starch  into  a 
thick  paste  with  a  little  water,  and 
heating  this  from  212°  to  265°  F.,  it  is 
converted  into  a  transparent,  elastic 
mass,  which  is  then  dried  and  worked 
into  combs,  buttons,  etc.  For  certain 
purposes  pigments,  glue,  sugar,  wool, 
silk,  fish  scales,  asbestos,  and  similar 
substances  are  mixed  with  the  starch 
paste. 

Vegetaline.  This  new  substance, 
claimed  by  its  inventor  to  be  incom- 
bustible, impervious,  and  unchangea- 
ble, serves  as  a  substitute  for  ivory, 
coral,  caoutchouc,  leather,  etc.  It  is 
prepared  by  treating  cellulose  derived 
from  any  source  with  sulphuric  acid  of 
58°  Beaume,  at  a  temperature  of  60° 
F.,  and  then  washed  with  cold  water  to 
remove  any  excess  of  sulphuric  acid, 
dried,  and  pulverized.  The  powder  is 
mixed  with  resinous  soap,  as  sodium 
resinate,  and  the  soda  separated  by  sul- 
phate of  alumina.  The  mass  is  again 
dried  and  pressed  into  cakes  in  a  hy- 


draulic press.  The  cakes  are  cut  into 
thin  slices  and  moulded  into  desired 
shapes  by  strong  pressure.  To  make 
the  substance  entirely  incombustible, 
the  cellulose,  after  having  been  treated 
with  sulphuric  acid,  is  washed  with 
chloride  of  ammonia,  silicate  of  lime,  or 
the  borates  of  soda  and  potash.  To 
make  it  transparent,  castor-oil  or  glyc- 
erine is  added  to  the  dry  powder,  veg- 
etable coloring  matter  being  used  for 
coloring  it.  Its  opaqueness  is  increased 
by  adding  linseed  oil  converted  into  a 
siccative  with  litharge;  mineral  colors 
being  in  this  case  used  for  coloring. 

Substitute  for  Linseed  Oil  and  Oil  of 
Turpentine  in  Preparing  Paints.  Mix 
100  parts  of  colophony  and  20  of  crys- 
tallized soda  with  50  of  water,  and  di- 
lute the  mixture  with  250  parts  of 
water  and  24  of  caustic  ammonia.  The 
product  thus  obtained  is  of  a  syrupy 
consistency  and  can  be  mixed  with  the 
pigments  in  the  usual  manner.  It 
dries  and  quickly  becomes  hard,  covers 
well,  can  be  coated  with  Tarnish,  and 
is  not  affected  by  moisture  and  changes 
of  temperature. 

Substitute  for  Bristles.  The  fibrous 
bark  of  the  sugar  palm  (Arenga  saccha- 
ria}  is  a  good  substitute  for  bristles  and 
animal  and  human  hair.  The  bark  ia 
first  immersed  in  water  and  boiled  for 
some  time  in  an  alkaline  solution.  The 
fibres  are  then  soaked  in  an  emulsion 
of  fat,  alkali,  and  water  for  about  12 
hours,  after  which  time  they  are  suffi- 
ciently hard  and  elastic  to  be  used. 

Artificial  Chalk.  In  preparing  soda 
water,  gypsum  results  from  the  action 
of  the  oil  of  vitriol  on  the  limestone 
used.  This  is  mixed  with  lime-mud 
obtained  in  making  soda-ash  caustic. 
The  whole  is  then  elutriated,  and  the 
liquid  containing  the  finer  portions  in 
suspension  is  run  off"  and  allowed  to  set- 
tle; the  powder  is  then  pressed  into 
moulds  and  dried. 

Artificial  Leather.      The    following 
new  article  of   vegetable  leather  has 
been  invented  and  patented  by  X.  Kar- 
chesky,  of  Belleville,  N.  J.     It  is  com- 
posed of  a  web  of  paper  having  one  or 
both  of  its  surfaces  converted  into  veg- 
j  etable  parchment.     This  is  dyed  by  a 
:  process  which   produces  an  even  and 
i  perfect  diffusion  of  color  throughout 
[  the  material,  and  then  embossed  to  imi- 


IMITATIONS,  SUBSTITUTES,  ETC. 


175 


tate  leather.  The  process  is  as  follows : 
Paper  of  any  desired  thickness  is  im- 
mersed in  a  weak  solution  of  sulphuric 
acid,  the  thickness  of  the  paper  or  the 
sizing  upon  the  paper  determining  the 
strength  of  the  acid  solution.  The 
object  of  this  is  to  reduce  only  the  sur- 
face of  the  paper  to  pulp  without  dis- 
solving the  entire  fabric,  so  that  the 
result  will  be  a  paper  web  retaining  its 
fibrous  quality,  but  enclosed  within  2 
films  of  vegetable  parchment.  After 
the  surface  of  the  paper  has  been  re- 
duced by  the  action  of  the  acid  to  a 
pulpy  state  it  is  taken  from  the  acid 
bath  and  lightly  scraped  by  being  drawn 
over  stationary  scrapers,  care  being 
taken  not  to  scrape  hard  enough  to  re- 
move the  pulp  or  tear  the  sheet.  The 
sheet  is  then  passed  over  a  series  of 
hard,  smooth  rollers,  which  compress 
and  spread  the  pulp  evenly  over  the 
surfaces  of  the  sheet,  thus  producing  a 
fabric  smooth  and  glossy  on  both  sides. 
It  is  then  placed  in  a  water-bath  for  the 
purpose  of  diluting  and  partially  wash- 
ing out  the  sulphuric  acid  in  it,  a  small 
quantity  of  the  acid  being  allowed  to 
remain.  After  being  removed  from  the 
water-bath  the  fabric  is  submitted  to  a 
series  of  dye-baths,  more  or  less  in  num- 
ber, according  to  the  depth  of  color  re- 
quired. The  dyes  are  either  alkaline 
or  an  alkali  is  added  if  necessary.  The 
sulphuric  acid  left  in  the  fabric  acts  as 
a  mordant,  and  the  energy  and  avidity 
with  which  the  alkaline  dyes  seek  the 
acid  cause  a  uniform  and  complete 
diffusion  of  color  throughout  the  fabric. 
It  is  then  washed  with  water  to  remove 
any  sulphates  or  excess  of  coloring  mat- 
ter lying  upon  its  surfaces,  and  again 
drawn  over  the  scrapers  to  remove  the 
excess  of  water.  It  is  then  passed 
through  a  warm  bath  of  glycerine, 
which,  as  the  water  remains  in  the 
fabric,  penetrates  it  throughout.  It  is 
then  carried  to  hot  drying  cylinders, 
over  which  it  is  kept  passing  until  the 
water  has  been  completely  expelled, 
care  being  had  not  to  subject  it  to  a 
high  enough  heat  to  evaporate  the  soft- 
ening material.  It  is  then  passed 
through  cold  calender  rollers  until 
it  is  thoroughly  cooled  off,  when 
it  is  wound  upon  a  reel  and  is  ready 
for  embossing.  This  is  done  in 
the  usual  manner  by  subjecting  the 


fabric  to  hot  pressure  from  engraved 
rollers. 

When  it  is  desired  to  convert  only  one 
surface  of  the  paper  into  vegetable 
parchment,  the  process  is  modified  by 
substituting  in  place  of  the  acid  bath  a 
roller  or  rollers  of  smooth  lead  or  rub- 
ber revolving  in  acid,  over  which  the 
paper  is  carried  and  upon  which  it  is 
pressed  by  another  roller  or  rollers. 
By  this  means  only  one  side  of  the 
paper  absorbs  the  acid,  the  remainder 
of  the  process  being  the  same  as  when 
both  sides  of  the  paper  are  converted 
into  vegetable  parchment. 

Artificial  Leather  (Stierlin's  German 
and  French  Patent).  A  loosely-coher- 
ing fleece  of  flax,  cotton,  or  hemp  is 
prepared  on  the  carding  engine  and 
immersed  in  a  solution  prepared  as  fol- 
lows: Dissolve  25  parts  of  animal  or 
vegetable  glue,  which  has  been  exposed 
to  the  action  of  tannin,  in  75  parts  of 
water,  and  compound  the  solution  with 
20  parts  of  pipe-clay  and  5  to  10  of  any 
kind  of  tannin.  The  fleece  is  then 
passed  through  rollers  heated  by  steam, 
which  press  out  the  excess  of  material, 
and  is  next  brought  into  a  bath  con- 
taining a  decoction  of  oak  bark  with  5 
per  cent,  of  glycerine.  By  this  solution 
color,  softness,  and  density  are  imparted 
to  the  fabric.  After  remaining  here  for 
12  to  24  hours  the  fabric  is  taken  from 
the  bath  and  dried  by  means  of  hot  or 
cold  air,  after  which  the  leather  is 
ready  for  use. 

Artificial  Wool  is  prepared  by  mixing 
vegetable  fibrous  substances,  as  jute, 
hemp,  nettle,  flax,  etc.,  with  wool.  The 
fibrous  substances  are  boiled  with  caus- 
tic lye,  at  350°  F.,  for  i  hour,  then 
washed,  and  repeatedly  boiled  in  an- 
other boiler,  2  ounces  of  ammonio-sul- 
phate  of  copper  and  2  pounds  of  soda 
being  added  to  every  100  pounds  of 
material  during  the  boiling.  The  ma- 
terial is  then  washed,  dried,  and  mixed 
with  the  wool. 

Substitute  for  Meerschaum,  Ivory,  etc. 
A  material  which  can  be  carved  is  pre- 
pared by  treating  peeled  potatoes  for  36 
hours  with  a  solution  of  8  parts  of  sul- 
phuric acid  in  100  of  water.  The  mass 
is  then  dried  between  blotting-paper 
and  pressed.  Pipes  closely  resembling 
meerschaum  and  other  articles  can  be 
manufactured  from  it.  By  the  use  of  a 


176 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


very  strong  pressure  a  close  imitation 
of  ivory  billiard  balls  has  been  made 
of  this  material, 

Porous  Substance  as  a  Substitute  for 
Felt  for  Trays  for  Beer  Glasses.  The 
felt  generally  used  in  trays  for  beer 
glasses  is  replaced  by  a  porous  mass  of 
clay  consisting  of  54  parts  of  Meissen 
clay,  27  of  porcelain  earth,  13  of  feld- 
spar, and  <3  of  chalk.  The  materials 
are  moistened  with  water  and  finely 
ground,  when  they  are  dried  until  suffi- 
ciently plastic  to  be  moulded.  The 
moulded  pieces  are  then  moderately 
burned  in  a  potter's  oven. 

Substitute  for  Cast  Iron,  Stone,  Clay^ 
and  Cement.  Sixty  to  80  parts  of  blast- 
furnace slag,  10  to  20  of  soda  waste  or 
alkalies,  and  1  to  20  each  of  lime,  pyro- 
lusite,  and  greenstone  (diabase)  are 
melted  together  in  a  small  blast  fur- 
nace or  cupola,  so  that  the  mass  has 
about  the  following  composition : 

Silica 60  per  cent. 

Lime 10      " 

Alumina 10      "* 

Ferric  and  manganic  oxide     .     .      8      " 
Alkalies .12      « 

100      " 

The  mass  is  so  hard  and  tough  that  it 
can  be  turned  like  steel,  and  resists  the 
action  of  the  atmosphere,  water,  and 
acids  to  such  a  degree  that  it  can  be 
used  for  gas  and  water  pipes,  building 
purposes,  steps,  etc. 

If  eels  of  Boots  and  Shoes,  Buttons, 
etc.,  can  be  prepared  from  pulverized 
leather  without  the  use  of  an  aggluti- 
nant.  Place  thoroughly  cleansed 
leather  waste  in  a  water-bath  of  about 
150°  F.  for  1  hour,  then  carefully  dry 
it  in  a  revolving  drum  at  about  150°  F., 
and  grind  it  to  a  fineness  according  to 
use  intended.  The  ground  material  is 
pressed  into  moulds  heated  to  about 
240°  to  250°  F.,  and  subjected  for  about 
JO  minutes  to  a  pressure  of  not  less  than 
800  pounds  to  the  square  yard.  For 
boot  heels  the  powder  is  left  in  the 
moulds  until  the  exterior  parts  become 
hard,  but  the  interior  remains  com- 
paratively elastic.  If  substances  are 
added  which  do  not  combine  with  the 
leather  waste  at  the  above  heat,  the 
moulds  must  be  heated  from  290°  to 
F.  to  make  the  leather  semi-fluid. 


Hall's  Substitute  for  Leather.  Mix 
in  a  suitable  vessel  4  parts  of  wax,  2 
of  caoutchouc,  1  of  resin,  2  of  bone- 
black,  and  1  of  lampblack,  and  apply 
the  mixture  while  warm  to  cloth  or 
other  fabrics  by  means  of  a  brush.  Let 
it  dry  thoroughly  and  repeat  the  coat- 
ing several  times,  allowing  the  previous 
coating  to  become  entirely  dry  before 
applying  the  next.  This  material,  after 
having  been  lacquered,  is  principally 
used  for  shields  for  caps. 

Preparation  of  Leather  Cloth.  Heat 
for  1  hour  over  a  moderate  fire  15 
parts  of  powdered  litharge,  15  of  pulver- 
ized brown  umber,  and  2  of  manganic 
hydrate  with  some  linseed  oil ;  then  add 
500  parts  of  linseed  oil  to  the  mixture 
and  let  the  whole  stand  for  a  few  days 
to  settle.  It  is  then  thoroughly  mixed 
with  an  equal  volume  of  water,  and 
applied  to  linen,  cotton,  or  woollen  tis- 
sues, and  allowed  to  become  dry.  Now 
mix  clear  linseed  oil  with  lampblack 
to  a  stiff  paste  and  spread  it  on  the 
tissue.  If  the  latter  is  very  thin,  or  the 
coating  required  to  dry  quickly,  the 
linseed  oil  must  be  boiled  with  the 
above-named  substances  for  2  or  3  hours 
to  acquire  the  proper  consistency.  A 
paste  made  of  15  parts  of  plumbic  salt 
and  some  turpentine  and  lampblack 
to  1000  parts  of  linseed  oil  is  spread 
over  the  first  coating  and  allowed  to 
dry.  Successive  applications  of  raw 
linseed  oil  follow  until  the  surface  is 
suitable,  when  it  is  smoothed  with 
pumice.  Mix  linseed  oil  with  lamp- 
black or  other  coloring  matter,  and 
paint  the  surface,  allow  it  to  dry,  and 
pumice.  Coat  with  a  varnish  of  1000 
parts  of  linseed  oil,  57  of  umber,  5  of 
litharge,  and  5  of  Berlin  blue,  boiled 
for  24  hours,  and  when  cold  mixed  with 
turpentine.  After  the  coat  of  varnish 
is  dry  the  appearance  of  Morocco  is 
given  to  the  fabric  by  subjecting  it  to 
pressure  from  engraved  rollers.  The 
material,  which  is  already  manufact- 
ured in  large  quantities,  is  soft,  pliable, 
perfectly  water-proof,  and  particularly 
well  adapted  for  saddler  and  trunk- 
maker's  work,  fancy  articles,  etc. 

Jlicoud's  Artificial  Leather.  Knead 
boiled  rye  flour,  pulverized  Spanish 
chalk,  some  kind  of  coloring  matter, 
and  linseed  oil  into  a  uniform  dough, 
and  apply  this  to  woollen  or  cotton  tie- 


IMITATIONS,  SUBSTITUTES,  ETC. 


1T7 


sues  with  a  suitable  instrument.  Pumice 
the  coat,  when  dry,  and  then  brush  it 
•over  with  an  oil  varnish  to  which  the 
desired  color  has  been  added.  After 
an  even  and  perfect  diffusion  of  the 
color,  the  fabric  is  again  pumiced  and 
coated  with  fine  lacquer.  The  flesh 
side  of  the  leather  is  prepared  in  the 
same  manner  by  using  an  oil  or  aque- 
ous mixture,  according  to  the  purpose 
for  which  the  fabric  is  to  be  used.  The 
first  is  prepared  by  adding  white  lead 
ground  in  linseed  oil  of  the  consistency 
of  syrup,  and  reducing  this  with  oil  of 
turpentine,  so  that  it  can  be  conve- 
niently applied  to  the  tissue,  coating  it 
several  times.  The  aqueous  mixture 
consists  of  gelatine,  gum  paste,  solution 
of  gutta-percha,  or  of  caoutchouc.  What- 
ever the  mixture  applied,  dust  of  cot- 
ton, silk,  woollen,  or  leather  is  sifted 
over  it  and  allowed  to  dry,  when  the 

g  articles  not  adhering  are  removed  by 
rushing. 

Artificial  Slating  for  Blackboards 
and  School  Slates.  Mix  1(5  parts  of 
ground  pumice-stone  and  21  of  pulver- 
ized animal  charcoal  with  10  parts  of 
Ejrified  caoutchouc  and  5  of  sulphur, 
oil  out  the  mixture  in  thin  sheets  and 
cut  it  into  the  desired  sizes,  which  are 
then  formed  into  packages  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:  First  a  sheet  of  tin 
plate,  next  1  of  paper,  on  the  top  of  this 
a  layer  of  the  above  composition,  then 
again  a  sheet  of  tin  plate,  a  sheet  of 
paper,  a  layer  of  composition,  and  so 
on,  are  pressed  together,  brought  into  a 
boiler,  and  there  submitted  to  a  temper- 
ature of  266°  to  285°  F.  for  2V  hours. 
The  packages  are  then  taken  from  the 
boiler,  and  each  plate,  with  the  paper 
covering  it  on  both  sides,  is  tightly  com- 
pressed by  passing  it  through  2 'plates 
heated  by  steam,  and  then  again  sub- 
mitted to  the  above  temperature  for  2 
hours.  The  plates,  when  cool,  are 
pumiced,  and  are  then  ready  for  use. 

Artificial  Ebony.  This  is  prepared 
on  a  large  scale  by  grinding  to  |x>wder 
60  parts  of  charcoal  obtained  from  sea- 
weeds, previously  treated  with  dilute 
sulphuric  acid  and  dried,  and  mixing 
it  with  10  parts  of  liquid  glue,  oof  gutta- 
porcha,  and  2V  of  caoutchouc,  the  latter 
two  substances  having  been  previously 
mixed  with  coal-tar  to  render  them  gelat- 
inous. Then  10  parts  of  coal-tar,  5  of 
12 


pulverized  sulphur,  2  of  pulverized 
alum,  and  5  of  powdered  resin  are 
added,  and  the  mixture  heated  to  300° 
F.  After  having  been  cooled  a  sub- 
stance is  obtained  which  is  equal  in 
many  respects  to  genuine  ebony  wood, 
but  far  less  expensive,  and  capable  of 
receiving  a  finer  polish. 

Leather,  Soap,  and  Glue  from  Sea- 
weeds (Algce).  The  plants  'are  dried 
and  powdered,  and  extracted  with  warm 
water  in  a  heated  boiler,  with  or  with- 
out the  addition  of  alcohol,  soda,  milk 
of  lime  or  other  salt.  The  solution  is 
allowed  to  settle  at  a  temperature  of 
120°  to  140°  F.  When  cold  it  congeals 
to  a  jelly,  which  is  used  for  various  pur- 
poses. 

1.  Transparent    Sea-weed  Leather  is 
obtained  by  pouring  the  jelly  upon  a 
plate  and  allowing  it  to  dry  out,  after 
other  substances  and  various  quantities 
of  alcohol,  according  to  the  thickness 
and  desired  pliability,  have  been  added. 

2.  Opaque  Sea-weed  Leather  is  pro- 
duced in  the  same  manner,  except  the 
adding  of  substances  which  give  to  it 
greater  power  of  resistance  and  the  de- 
sired opacity  and  color.     Both  varieties 
may  also  be  spread  upon  muslin,  or  pa- 
per, or  other  substances,  whereby,  in 
the  first  case,  a  substitute  for  gutta- 
percha,   parchment,  etc.,   is  obtained, 
and,  in  the  latter  case,  one  for  wall  pa- 
per, book  covers,  etc. 

3.  Sea-weed  Soap.    In  this  soap  the 
jelly  takes  the  place  of  the  fats  or  re- 
sins.   According  to  the  degree  of  con- 
centration it  can  be  obtained  in  soft  or 
solid  form,  or  as  a  powder.     It  is  used 
for  linen,  cotton,  silk,  or  wool. 

4.  Sea-weed  Glue  can  advantageously 
be  substituted  for  animal  glue. 

Artificial  Stone  for  Sharpening  Lead 
and.  Slate  Pencils.  Boil  1  part  of  lin- 
seed-oil varnish  in  5  parts  of  glue  dis- 
solved in  water,  and  add  with  constant 
stirring  1  part  of  cement  dissolved  in 
water,  and  sufficient  fine  sand  or  ground 
glass  to  make  a  plastic  dough.  This  is 
spread  upon  curved  blocks  of  wood  as 
being  better  suited  than  flat  surfaces  for 
sharpening  pencils. 

To  Convert  Ordinary  Agate  into 
Onyx.  Place  the  polished  stones  in  a 
solution  of  iron  in  aqua-fortis.  Then 
impregnate  that  part  of  the  stone  which 
is  to  be  white  or  yellowish -white  for 


178 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


some  length  of  time  with  a  solution  of 
caustic  soda  in  water.  The  stones  are 
then  dried  for  about  8  days  on  the  top 
of  a  stove,  and  finally  burned  in  a  closed 
earthen  pot,  when  the  coloring  will  make 
its  appearance. 

Substitute  for  Opaque  Window  Glass. 
Chardon  recommends  for  this  a  layer 
of  gelatine  mixed  with  very  finely  pow- 
dered sulphate  of  baryta.  For  this  pur- 
pose he  mixes  the  two  following  solu- 
tions :  a.  1.5  parts  of  hydrochlorate 
of  baryta  and  5  of  gelatine  in  100  of 
water;  b.  2.15  parts  of  sulphate  of 
baryta  and  5  of  gelatine  in  100  of 
water.  The  chloride  of  sodium  formed 
is  removed  by  washing  the  gelatinous 
mass. 

Porous  Substance  as  a  Substitute  for 
Blotters.  Mix  7  parts  by  weight  of 
gypsum  with  1  part  by  weight  of  potato- 
flour  and  pour  the  mass  into  a  mould. 
After  becoming  hard  the  blotter  is  ready 
and  may  be  used  for  years. 

Flexible  Mirrors  capable  of  being 
bent  into  any  desirable  shape  can  be 
made  by  the  following  process:  Coat 
paper  or  tissue  with  white  of  egg  and 
apply  several  layers  of  transparent 
varnish  to  the  thickness  of  mirror  glass. 
Coat  a  sheet  of  tinfoil  with  several 
layers  of  varnish  impervious  to  water, 
and,  when  dry,  glue  the  tinfoil  upon 
paper,  tissue,  wood,  or  any  other  sub- 
stance. Spread  mercury  on  the  other 
side  of  the  tinfoil,  which  forms  an 
amalgam  with  the  tin,  upon  which  lay 
the  varnished  surface  of  the  paper  and 
subject  them  to  a  strong  pressure  as  long 
as  is  necessary,  and  remove  the  paper 
by  moistening  the  back  with  water,  as 
this  dissolves  the  white  of  egg  and  de- 
taches the  paper.  The  result  of  the 
operation  will  be  an  actual  mirror,  the 
beauty  of  which  will  of  course  largely 
depend  upon  the  clearness  and  trans- 
parency of  the  varnish  used.  The  mir- 
ror may  be  made  in  such  a  form  as  to 
fit  the  place  it  is  to  occupy,  but  this  is 
not  absolutely  necessary,  since  the 
finished  mirrors  can  be  bent  into  any 
desired  shape,  the  inventor,  for  this 
reason,  having  given  them  the  name 
of  flexible  mirrors. 

Beautiful  effects  can  be  produced  by 
using  colored  mirrors,  which  can  be 
readily  produced  in  the  same  man- 
ner. 


Artificial  Whalebone  for  Umbrella, 
and  Parasol  Ribs,  Busks  for  Corsets., 
etc.  Knead  and  soften  2  pounds  or 
caoutchouc,  then  mix  with  it  8|  ounces 
of  flowers  of  sulphur,  7  ounces  of  shel- 
lac, a  like  quantity  of  magnesia,  and 
8|  ounces  of  roll  sulphur.  The  pieces 
formed  from  the  mixture  are  heated  in 
a  furnace  at  250°  to  300°  F. 

Buffalo  Skin  as  a  Substitute  for 
Horn.  According  to  Rohn,  buffalo 
skins  can  be  softened  by  steam  and 
pressed  into  any  desired  shape,  and 
when  dry  resemble  transparent  horn, 
capable  of  being  turned,  ground,  and 
polished.  This  prepared  material  is 
well  adapted  for  pump  pistons. 

Substitute  for  Tinfoil.  Make  a  thin 
paste  with  zinc  dust  and  albumen,  and 
spread  it  with  a  brush  or  roller  upon 
cotton  or  linen  tissue.  When  dry  the 
albumen  is  coagulated  by  steam  arid 
the  fabric  immersed  in  a  solution  of 
chloride  of  tin.  The  tin  is  deposited  in 
a  fine  powder  on  the  zinc.  Beautiful 
effects  can  be  had  by  burnishing  the 
whole  or  parts.  Tissues  thus  prepared 
are  a  good  water-proof  substitute  for 
tinfoil  in  many  cases. 

Zeiodelite.  The  material  known  by 
this  name  is  prepared  as  follows: 
Melt  19  parts  of  sulphur,  and  stir  in  42 
parts  of  pulverized  fragments  of  stone- 
ware or  glass,  and  when  thoroughly 
mixed  pour  into  moulds.  Sheets  of 
this  prepared  material  can  be  substi* 
tuted  for  lead  in  the  construction  of 
sulphuric  acid  chambers,  as  they  resist 
the  action  of  the  highest  concentrated 
acids  and,  though  the  plates  are  4  inch 
thick  and  lead  plates  only  iV  inch  thick, 
their  cost  is  but  \  of  the  latter,  and  the 
sulphuric  acid  is  entirely  free  from 
lead.  They  retain  their  solidity  in 
boiling  water,  and  do  not  melt  under 
250°  F.,  making  them  a  good  substitute 
for  asphaltum  in  many  cases,  and  also 
for  hydraulic  cement  for  stone  work. 

To  join  the  plates  in  constructing  sul- 
phuric acid  chambers,  they  are  set 
about  1  inch  apart,  and  the  joints  filled 
in  with  melted  zeiodelite  heated  to 
390°  F. 

Imitations  of  Mother-of-pearl  and 
Marble  with  Glue.  The  following  proc- 
ess, which  is  to  a  large  extent  based 
upon  laboratory  experiments,  may  be 
divided  into  5  principal  operations :  1. 


IMITATIONS,  SUBSTITUTES,  ETC. 


179 


Preparation  of  the  plates  ;  2.  Prepara- 
tion of  the  glue  solutions  ;  3.  Pouring 
the  colored  glue  solutions  upon  plates  ; 
4.  Transferring  the  layer  of  glue  to  a 
layer  of  gelatine ;  5.  Drying  the  ven- 
eers and  detaching  them  from  the 
plates. 

1.  Preparation  of  the  Plates.     Both 
marble  and  glass  plates  are  used  for 
imitations  of  marble,  but   only  glass 
plates    are    employed    for    imitations 
of  mother-of-pearl.     The  glass    plates 
must  be  ground,  but  need  not  exceed 
rV  to  }  inch  in  thickness,  and  only  re- 
quire careful  washing  and  drying  for 
imitations  of  mother-of-pearl.    For  imi-  j 
tatious  of  marble  they  should  be  rubbed  j 
with  an  oiled  linen  rag.     Other  glass 
plates,  after  being  washed,  are  polished 
with  pure  colcothar    and  water,  and 
wiped  with  a  soft  rag  to  remove   any 
particles  of  the  polishing  powder.     The 
polished  surface  is  then  gently  rubbed 
with  a  rag  dipped  in  pure  Spanish  chalk 
(soapstone),  and  the  excess  of  chalk 
carefully  dusted  off. 

2.  Preparation  of  the  Glue  Solution. 
For  1  dozen  plates,  each  1  square  yard, 
soak  2  pounds  of  good,  colorless  glue  for 
24  hours  in  water,  pour  off  the  water, 
and  melt  the  glue  in  a  water-bath,  and 
stir  in  3£  ounces  of  glycerine.     For  imi- 
tating marble  with  2  colors,  compound 
1  to  H  pints  of  this  glue  solution  with 
the   quantities  of    thoroughly  ground 
mineral  colors  given  below;   the  rest 
of  the   glue    solution  is  mixed    with 
6i  ounces  of  zinc  white  ground  very 
fine.     For    imitating    marble    with   3 
colors,  mix  I   pint  of  the  glue  solu- 
tion with    one   coloring    matter,   and 
$  pint  with  the  other  coloring  matter, 
and   the  remainder  with   zinc  white. 
For  imitating  marble    with   4   colors, 
take  i  pint  of  the  glue  solution  to  each 
of  the  3  coloring  matters,  and  mix  the 
rest  with  4i  ounces  of  zinc  white. 

The  proportions  by  weight  of  the 
mixtures  for  10  different  varieties  of 
imitations  of  marble  and  enamel,  are  as 
follows : 

a.  Mix  1  pint  of  glue  solution  with 
1J  ounces  of  colcothar  and   2£  ounces 
of  zinc  white,  and  the  rest  of  the  glue 
solution  with  6£  ounces  of  zinc  white. 

b.  Mix  1  pint  of  glue  solution  with 
1J  ounces  of  colcothar,  and  the  rest 
with  5i  ounces  of  zinc  white. 


c.  Mix  |  pint  of  glue  solution  with 
ounces  of  zinc  white  and   1  ounce 

.of  colcothar,  f  pint  of  the  glue  solu- 
tion with  1  ounce  of  yellow  ochre, 
and  the  rest  with  5i  ounces  of  zinc 
white. 

d.  Mix  i  pint  of  the  glue  solution 
with  1   ounce  of  colcothar,  f  pint  of 
the  glue  solution  with  f  ounce  of  sepia, 
and  the  rest  with  5i   ounces  of  zinc 
white. 

e.  Compound    1    pint    of    the    glue 
solution  with  1  ounce  of  quite  concen- 
trated and  filtered  solution  of  aniline 
black,  and  the  rest  with  6i  ounces  of 
zinc  white. 


/.  Mix  i  pint  of  the  glue  solution 
with  |  ounce  of  colcothar,  i  pint  of 
the  glue  solution  with  f  ounce  of  yellow 


\  ochre,  i  pint  of  the  glue  solution  with 
S  ounce  of  sepia,  and  the  rest  with  4& 

i  ounces  of  zinc  white. 

g.  Mix  1  pint  of  the  glue  solution 
with  \\  ounces  of  lampblack.  For 
gray  add  sufficient  zinc  white  to  pro- 
duce the  desired  shade.  The  rest  of 
the  glue  solution  is  mixed  with  6^ 
ounces  of  zinc  white. 

h.  Mix  £  pint  of  the  glue  solution 
with  $  ounce  of  umber,  £  pint  of  the 

I  glue  solution  with  J  ounce  of  bole,  i 

!"  pint  of  the  glue  solution  with  f  ounce 
of  ochre,  and  the  rest  with  4-i  ounces  of 
zinc  white. 

i.  For  Enamels  mix  1  pint  of  the 
glue  solution  with  1  ounce  of  ultra- 
marine, and  the  rest  with  6  ounces  of 
zinc  white. 

k.  Mix  1  pint  of  the  glue  solution 
with  U  ounces  of  chrome  green,  and  the 
rest  with  6i  ounces  of  zinc  white. 

For  imitating  mother-of-pearl  veneers 
£  ounce  of  silver  bronze,  which  need 
not  be  genuine,  is  ground  with  a  little 
glue  or  water  and  intimately  mixed 
with  the  above  solution  of  glue.  The 
bronze  powder  must  not  be  in  a  dry 
state  when  stirred  into  the  glue,  as 

!  lumps  would  be  formed  and  the  veneers 
become  spotted.  In  place  of  bronze, 
essence  of  fish  scales,  which  is  of  course 
a  great  deal  more  costly,  can  be  used. 
The  solution  of  glue  thus  prepared  is 
then  compounded  with  different  aniline 
colors,  according  to  the  coloring  de- 
sired. 

a.  For  preparing  yellowish  veneers 
the  glue  solution  is  used  without  au 


180 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


addition  of  some  coloring  matter,  or 
with  an  addition  of  some  solution  of 
picric  acid. 

b.  For  colorless  veneers,  or  those  of 
slightly    reddish    tints,   a    smaller    or 
greater  number  of  drops  of  a  concen- 
trated solution  of  fuchsine  are  added, 
which  counteracts  the  yellowish  tint  of 
the    glue.      For    these    imitations    of 
mother-of-pearl  veneers  a  concentrated 
solution  of  gelatine  compounded  with 
15  per  cent,  of  glycerine  can  be  em- 
ployed, especially  when  essence  of  fish 
scales  is  used. 

c.  For  Blue  the  glue  solution  is  com- 
pounded with  "  bleu,  de  Lyons,"  but  the 
greatest  care  must  be  exercised  not  to 
use  too  much,  as  otherwise  the  imitation 
becomes  indistinct.     The  right  degree 
of  coloring  can  be  tested  by  allowing  a 
few  drops  of  the  colored  glue  solution 
to  fall  upon  a  glass  plate. 

d.  For  Red,  solution  of  fuchsine  or 
carmine  is  used.     The  latter  is  obtained 
by  dissolving  commercial  carmine  pow- 
der in  alcohol. 

e.  Orange  colors  are  produced  by  an 
add  ition  of  a  solution  of  vesuvine ;  violet 
by  adding  dahlia  violet.     For  these,  as 
well  as  for  the  solution  colored  with 
fuchsine,  the  plates  must  not  be  rubbed 
with  oil,  as  even  the  smallest  trace  of 
oil  discolors  these  colors  in  drying,  or 
at  least  the  veneers  will  show  colorless 
spots.     The  different  shades  of  gray  are 
obtained  bv  adding  more  or  less  of  solu- 
tion of  aniline  black  which  has  been 
previously  filtered. 

3.  Pouring  the  Colored  Glue  Solutions 
upon  the  Plates.  For  imitations  of 
marble  and  enamel  the  glass  plates, 
rubbed  with  oil,  are  placed  in  a  hori- 
zontal position  with  the  rubbed  surface 
up.  The  proper  portion  of  the  white 
ground  mnss,  after  it  has  become  some- 
what thickish,  is  then  poured  upon  the 
plates,  and  the  gaps  left  free  in  pouring 
filled  in  and  smoothed  with  an  instru- 
ment resembling  a  knife  made  of  horn 
or  bone.  Upon  this  white  ground  the 
respective  colored  solutions  of  glue  are 
then  poured  in  zigzag  form,  parallel 
veins,  or  spots,  and,  according  to  the 
desired  design,  drawn  through  the 
ground  with  a  glass  rod.  If  several 
differently  colored  glue  solutions  are  to 
be  applied,  as  given,  for  instance,  under 
2/,  they  should  be  poured  out  in  quick 


succession,  so  that  the  succeeding  color 
runs  into  the  preceding,  or  that  a  white 
strip  or  spot  remains  between  each 
color.  The  whole  is  then  intermingled 
with  the  glass  rod  according  to  the  de- 
sign. If  the  latter  is  to  have  sharply 
defined  lines  and  spots,  the  respective 
glue  solution  is  used  somewhat  thicker ; 
but  if,  on  the  other  hand,  the  design  is 
to  be  somewhat  blended,  the  glue  solu- 
tions are  used  somewhat  warmer.  The 
plates,  when  the  glue  has  become  solid, 
are  placed,  until  further  treatment,  in 
a  cool  place  tor  2  or  3  hours. 

Imitations  of  malachite  are  prepared 
in  a  similar  manner.  Four  glue  solu- 
tions, with  different  shades  of  green  to 
the  lightest  tint,  are  prepared,  and  these 
solutions  poured  upon  a  slightly  green- 
ish-colored ground  in  imitation  of  the 
curves  and  veins  peculiar  to  malachite, 
and  these  curves  and  veins  are  then 
traced  with  a  comb  with  teeth  which 
stand  at  unequal  distances  from  each 
other. 

The  glass  plates  set  aside  to  be  used 
for  imitations  of  mother-of-pearl  are 
now  taken  in  hand.  The  glue  solu- 
tions must  be  kept  warm  in  a  water- 
bath  and  thoroughly  stirred  every  time 
before  pouring  them  upon  the  plates, 
and  the  formation  of  a  skin  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  glue  must  be  strictly  avoided. 
For  pouring  out  the  solutions  it  is  best 
to  use  a  porcelain  dish  with  a  spout 
and  a  handle,  and  having  a  capacity  of 
about  12  cubic  inches.  The  portion  of 
glue  solution  required  for  each  plate  (1| 
fluid  ounces)  is  now  measured  into  the 
porcelain  dish  and,  after  allowing  it  to 
stand  a  little  while,  is  poured  upon  the 
plate  and  uniformly  distributed.  The 
production  of  the  mother-of-pearl  de- 
sign requires  some  skill  and  practice. 
A  comb  with  teeth  set  A  inch  apart  is 
used  for  the  purpose.  It  is  held  in  a 
somewhat  oblique  position,  the  teeth 
are  gently  pressed  upon  the  elass  plate, 
and  with  frequent  turnings  of  the  comb 
at  a  right  angle  cycloidal  motion  exe- 
cuted. The  treatment  is  commenced 
from  the  front  to  the  back  edge  of  the 
plate,  and  when  the  glue  begins  to 
thicken  on  the  edges,  continued  at  the 
softer  places  until  the  desired  design  is 
produced.  The  places,  after  the  glue 
has  acquired  the  necessary  degree  of 
solidity,  must  not  be  retouched  with  the 


IMITATIONS,  SUBSTITUTES,  ETC. 


181 


comb.  When  a'll  the  plates  have  been 
treated  in  this  manner  they  are  then 
set  aside  in  a  cool  place  for  2  or  3 
hours. 

4.  Transferring  the  Layer  of  Glue  to 
a  Layer  of  Gelatine.  For  each  dozen 
of  veneers  soak  2£  ounces  of  gelatine, 
and  then  melt  them  in  a  water-bath 
and  add  glycerine  equal  to  10  per  cent, 
of  the  gelatine  and  let  the  mixture 
settle. 

The  glass  plates  treated  with  colco- 
tharand  Spanish  chalk  (soapstone)  are 
now  placed  in  a  horizontal  position  ;  1 
gill  of  the  gelatine  solution  is  poured 
upon  them  and  the  gaps  filled  in 
by  means  of  the  glass  rod.  The 
front  edge  of  the  plate  covered  with 
the  coiored  layers  of  glue  is  now, 
glne  side  down,  laid  exactly  upon  the 
Irout  edge  of  the  gelatine  plate,  while 
the  back  edge  of  the  former  is  gradually 
lowered  until  the  glue  plate  lies  firmly 
upon  the  gelatine  plate.  We  will  here 
remark  that  the  gelatine  solution  must 
only  be  cooled  off  so  far  that  the  glue 
will  not  melt  on  touching  it;  if  it  is 
cooler  the  veneers  will  be  blistered.  It 
must  further  be  looked  to  that,  before 
placing  the  first  plate  upon  the  gelatine 
plate,  no  gelatine  escapes,  but  that  any 
excess  of  the  latter  only  runs  off  after 
the  back  edge  of  the  first  plate  touches 
that  of  the  latter. 

The  plates  are  now  allowed  to  rest 
quietly  until  the  gelatine  is  congealed, 
when  they  are  removed  to  a  cool  place, 
where  they  remain  5  or  6  hours. 

The  imitations  of  mother-of-pearl  are 
treated  in  the  same  manner  with  the 
exception  that  the  gelatine  solution  is 
colored  with  the  same  coloring  matter 
as  the  glue  solution.  For  the  colorless 
or  yellowish  veneers  the  gelatine  solu- 
tion is  not  colored. 

After  6  hours  the  first  glass  plate  is 
detached  from  the  layer  of  glue  by 
loosening  the  latter  around  the  edge 
with  a  knife  blade,  and  the  plate  grad- 
ually lifted  off,  commencing  at  one  cor- 
ner. With  some  care  this  is  easily 
accomplished  without  detaching  the 
gelatine  layer. 

5.  Drying  and  Detaching  the  Veneers. 
The  veneers,  with  the  gelatine  layers 
still  adhering  to  the  glass  plates,  are  i 
now  dried.     This  is  effected  in  a  heated  j 
tooin,  in  which    the  veneers  are  ar- 1 


;  ranged  upon  frames,  so  that  they  stand 
f  almost  perpendicularly.  The  hot  air 
enters  near  the  ceiling  of  the  room, 
while  the  moist  air  is  sucked  away  near 
the  fioor.  The  temperature  of  the  low- 
est zone,  where  the  fresh  plates  are 
placed,  should  not  exceed  08°  F.  The 
plates  are  moved  higher  up  every  day 
until,  on  the  third  or  fourth  day,  they 
have  become  entirely  dry.  The  veneers, 
before  removing  them  from  the  room, 
must  be  tested  in  regard  to  their  dry- 
ness.  They  are  sufficiently  dry  whenv 
on  pressing  the  finger  nail  upon  the 
glue,  no  impression  is  made. 

The  plates,  after  removal  from  the 
room,  are  allowed  to  cool  off  for  at  least 
2  hours  before  the  veneers  are  detached 
from  the  glass  plates.  The  operation 
begins  by  detaching  the  gelatine  layer 
on  the  edges  with  a  very  thin  knife 
blade.  The  operator  then  takes  hold 
of  one  corner  of  the  veneer  and  draws 
it  gradually  and  careiully  from  the 
glass  plate.  The  edges  of  the  veneers 
are  then  trimmed  and  they  are  ready 
for  use. 

If  the  veneers  are  to  resist  the  action 
of  water,  mix  with  the  solution  of  gel- 
atine, compounded  with  glycerine,  £ 
fluid  ounce  of  a  solution  of  5  parts  of 
chrome  alum  in  100  parts  of  water  to 
every  plate,  and  immerse  the  veneers 
for  a  short  time  after  they  have  been 
detached  from  the  first  plate  in  a  sim- 
ilar solution  of  chrome  alum. 

The  veneers  prepared  by  these  meth- 
ods can  be  used  for  various  purposes  in 
architecture  and  in  the  manufacture  of 
furniture,  also  for  coating  columns,  for 
inlaid  work,  etc.  It  is  recommended 
to  add  some  glycerine  to  the  glue  with 
which  they  are  to  be  fastened  to  the 
articles,  as  this  will  prevent  them  from 
blistering  and  coming  off. 

Gelatine  Foils  are  variously  colored 
leaves  of  gelatine  about  as  thick  as  a 
sheet  of  paper.  Their  production  forms 
a  special  branch  of  industry  in  France 
and  England,  where  large  quantities  of 
them  are  produced,  either  simply  col- 
ored or  painted  with  neat  designs  in  gold 
or  silver.  If  but  one  side  of  the  foil  is 
to  be  glossy,  the  solutions  are  poured 
upon  a  glass  plate  and  dried,  but  if  both 
sides  are  to  be  glossy  they  are  dried  be- 
tween two  glass  plates. 
The  manufacture  is  quite  simple.  Al« 


182 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


low  pure  gelatine  to  swell  up  in  water, 
then  pour  oft'  the  water  and  dissolve 
the  remaining  jelly  over  the  water-bath. 
Allow  the  solution  to  cool  somewhat, 
and  then  add  the  coloring  matter  pre- 
viously dissolved  in  water. 

In  place  of  pure  gelatine  a  solution 
of  ordinary  bone  glue  may  be  used. 
Add  to  every  6  pounds  of  glue  i  ounce 
of  oxalic  acid  dissolved  in  water,  which 
will  clarify  the  solution.  To  make  the 
foil  more  pliable  add  also  1  pint  of  spirit 
of  wine  and  i  ounce  of  rock  candy,  or  a 
small  quantity  of  glycerine. 

For  coloring  the  solutions  it  is  best  to 
use  the  aniline  colors  soluble  in  water; 
for  red,  fuchsine;  for  blue,  J3leu  de 
Parme;  for  violet,  Hofmann's  violet; 
for  green,  aldehyde  green ;  for  yellow, 
picric  acid,  and  for  the  various  shades 
mixtures  of  the  above  colors. 

The  gelatine  solutions  are  poured  up- 
on ground-glass  plates  which  have  been 
previously  cleansed  with  elutriated  col- 
cothar  and  rubbed  with  Spanish  chalk. 
The  f  >ils  become  so  smooth  upon  the 
glass  side  that  they  can  be  drawn  off 
without  much  difficulty.  In  many  re- 
spects their'  manufacture  resembles  that 
of  "  Imitation  of  Veneers,"  to  which  we 
refer  the  reader. 

Gelatine  foils  are  used  for  printing 
sacred  images,  visiting  cards,  and  labels, 
for  fancy  articles,  and  in  the  manufact- 
ure of  artificial  flowers. 

SoreVs  /Substitutes  for  Gutta-percha 
and  Caoutchouc.  I.  Mix  colophony  2 
parts,  pitch  or  asphaltum  2,  rosin  oil  8, 
calcium  hydrate  6,  water  3,  alumina  10, 
and  gutta-percha  12.  Heat  the  colo- 
phony, pitch,  and  rosin  oil  in  a  boiler 
and  stir  until  the  resin  and  pitch  are 
dissolved.  Then  stir  the  calcium  hy- 
drate into  a  thin  paste  with  water,  add 
it  to  the  above  mixture  and  heat  the 
mass  again,  stirring  constantly.  When 
all  are  intimately  mixed  add  the  gutta- 
percha  cut  in  small  pieces.  Then  con- 
tinue heating  and  stirring  until  the 
gutta-percha  is  liquefied,  and  then  add 
the  alumina  previously  pulverized  and 
mixed  with  water.  As  soon  as  this  is 
equally  distributed  in  the  mixture,  re- 
move the  excess  of  water  and  bring  the 
whole  to  the  boiling  point.  If  any  more 
water  separates  remove  it,  then  knead 
the  composition  with  fresh  water,  and 
finally  pass  it  through  rollers.  To 


make  the  composition  entirely  water- 
proof, add  5  per  cent,  of  stearic  acid. 

II.  Pitch   8   parts,  rosin  oil  4,  cal- 
cium hydrate  6,  and  gutta-percha  16. 

III.  Pitch    12    parts,    calcium    hy- 
drate 6,  gutta-percha  16. 

IV.  Coal-tar  12  parts,  calcium  hy- 
drate 6,  gutta-percha  16. 

The  above  compositions  are  used 
for  manufacturing  water-proof  articles, 
tubes,  machine  belts,  water-proof  boots 
and  shoes,  etc.  If  greater  tenacity  is  to 
be  imparted  to  the  compositions  add 
fibrous  substances,  as  cotton,  wool, 
hemp,  etc. 

'  To  Give  to  Various  Articles  the  Lus- 
tre of  Mother-of-pearl.  Take  solution 
of  copal  2  parts,  sandarac  2,  solution 
of  dammar  4,  rosin  1,  and  absolute 
alcohol  1.  Mix  the  ingredients  with 
i  their  volume  of  oils  of  bergamot  or 
rosemary,  and  reduce  it  by  distillation 
to  the  consistency  of  castor-oil.  By  ap- 
plying this  varnish  with  a  feather  or 
brush  to  the  surface  of  water,  a  beauti- 
ful iridescent  film  will  be  formed,  which 
is  laid  on  the  articles  to  be  made  iri- 
descent. The  vessel  filled  with  water, 
upon  which  the  film  is  produced,  must 
be  as  large  or  larger  than  the  article  to 
be  coated.  Add  to  the  water  about  5 
per  cent,  of  pure  glue  solution,  and  keep 
it  at  a  temperature  of  about  70°  F. 

Substitute  for  Slate.  Convert  black 
slate  into  a  fine  powder,  sift  the  powder 
and  rub  it  with  water  upon  a  stone. 
When  dry  rub  it  again  with  the  muller 
and  then  add  to  8  parts  of  the  si  ate - 
powder  1  part  of  lampblack,  mix  thor- 
oughly with  glue  water,  and  boil  the 
whole  over  a  moderate  fire.  Then  ap- 
ply a  thin  and  uniform  layer  of  the 
composition  to  bristol-board  or  thick 
paper,  let  it  dry,  and  repeat  the  process 
until  the  coat  has  the  proper  thickness ; 
then  pumice  it  and  finally  apply  a  coat 
of  infusion  of  gall-nuts. 

Bertolio's  Substitute  for  Meerschaum. 
Cut  carbonate  of  magnesia  in  small 
pieces,  place  them  for  a  few  days  in  a 
hot  solution  of  silicate  of  potash,  and 
then  dry  them.  Repeat  this  operation 
several  times,  using  in  place  of  silicate 
of  potash,  fresh,  hot  solution  of  water- 
glass,  and  finally  expose  the  pieces  to 
the  air  for  a  few  months.  Pieces  treated 
in  this  way  will  become  hard  enough 
in  6  to  7  months  to  be  worked,  and  are 


IMITATIONS,  SUBSTITUTES,  ETC.  ' 


183 


a  close  imitation  of  the  genuine  meer- 
schaum. 

To  Prepare.  Ratan  to  be  used  in  the 
Manufacture  of  Corsets.  Ratan  is 
much  used  as  a  substitute  for  whale- 
bone in  the  manufacture  of  corsets. 
To  prevent  the  material  from  staining 
the  corset  when  washed,  boil  the  ribs  be- 
fore inserting  them  in  a  solution  of  1 
part  of  calcium  chloride  in  30  of  water 
for  i  hour,  stirring  constantly.  Then 
add  1  part  of  alum,  boil  again  with 
constant  stirring  for  i  hour,  and  then 
wash  and  rewash  them  in  'water,  and 
finally  bleach  them  in  the  sun. 

Composition  for  Cane  Heads.  Gun 
and  Pistol  /Stocks,  etc.  To  2  pounds  of 
caoutchouc,  previously  soaked  and 
kneaded,  add  1  pound  each  of  mag- 
nesia, coal-tar,  and  roll  sulphur,  and 
81  ounces  of  flowers  of  sulphur.  Press 
the  mixture  in  moulds  and  heat  to  250° 
to  365°  F. 

Sdren-Sorensen's  Imitations  of 
Leather  are  prepared  from  waste  of 
caoutchouc  and  leather.  The  leather 
waste  is  freed  from  all  foreign  substances 
and  then  converted  by  machinery  into 
a  homogeneous  fibrous  material.  By 
treating  this  with  ammoniacal  liquor  a 
gelatinous  compound  is  formed  which, 
after  pressing  in  moulds  or  rolled  out 
in  plates,  gives  a  very  hard  and  stiff 
.  product  of  considerable  cohesiveness 
but  without  elasticity,  and  soluble  in 
water.  To  make  the  material  elastic 
and  capable  of  resisting  the  action  of 
water  it  is  mixed  with  caoutchouc. 
The  latter  is  washed,  dried,  then  cut  up 
in  small  pieces  and  dissolved  in  oil  of 
turpentine  or  other  suitable  solvent. 
The  leather  treated  with  ammoniacal 
liquor  and  the  solution  of  caoutchouc 
are  mixed,  the  mixture  made  homo- 
geneous by  kneading,  and  the  product 
pressed  in  moulds  or  rolled  into  plates. 
The  proportions  depend  on  the  kind  of 
material  to  be  produced.  Thus  : 

For  Soles.  Twenty-five  parts  of  solid 
caoutchouc,  67  of  leather  waste,  and  67 
of  ammoniacal  liquor. 

For  Heels.  Twenty-five  parts  of 
solid  caoutchouc,  80  of  leather  waste, 
and  80  of  ammoniacal  liquor. 

For  Insoles.  Twenty-five  parts  of 
solid  caoutchouc,  90  of  leather  waste, 
and  75  of  ammoniacal  liquor. 

Imitation  of  Marble  for  Plastic  Or- 


naments and  Picture  Frames.  Boil  li 
pounds  of  good  glue  into  a  thick:  solution, 
stir  into  it  10  ounces  of  rosin  or, 
still  better,  Venetian  turpentine.  Mix 
finely-ground  mineral  color  in  a  dry 
state  with  powdered  French  chalk  to  the 
color  of  the  marble  to  be  imitated,  and 
stir  enough  of  it  into  the  above  glue  so- 
i  lution  to  make  a  stiff  paste,  and  then 
add  a  few  drops  of  pure  olive  oil.  Press 
the  mass  in  stone  or  gypsum  moulds,  or 
roll  into  thin  plates.  Cut  the  plates  to 
the  desired  patterns,  glue  them  on,  and 
allow  them  to  dry.  The  mass  becomes 
hard  as  stone.  Any  porous  places 
which  may  be  found  are  filled  in  with 
the  same  composition  diluted,  and  the 
j  whole  is  finally  coated  with  natural 
j  or  white  polish.  By  wrapping  the  com- 
position in  a  damp  linen  cloth,  it  can 
be  kept  for  a  long  time.  When  it  is  to 
be  used,  place  it  in  a  pot  heated  by 
steam,  when  it  will  become  again  plas- 
tic. Imitations  of  marbles  of  2  or  more 
colors  can  be  produced  by  mixing  dif- 
ferently colored  compositions  together. 
To  Dye  Hard-nut  Shell  Buttons. 
Sort  the  buttons,  selecting  the  whitest 
for  light  fancy  colors  and  the  more 
yellowish  and  yellow  ones  for  brown 
and  black.  Then  cleanse  the  buttons 
thoroughly  by  washing  with  hot  water, 
and  mordant  them  with  acetate  of  iron, 
copper,  or  lead,  or  aluminium.  They 
are  then  dyed. 

Coal  Black.  Dissolve  by  boiling  10 
pounds  of  extract  of  logwood  in  25  gal- 
j  Ions  of  water,  place  the  buttons  in  the 
!  bath,  and  work  them  in  it  for  i  hour  at 
190°  F.  Then  take  them  out,  place 
them  in  a  bath  of  iron  liquor,  work 
them  ^  hour,  expose  to  the  air  for  2  to 
3  hours,  then  bring  them  in  a  bath  con- 
sisting of  2  ounces  of  potassium  chro- 
mate  and  6  gallons  of  water,  and  finally 
rinse  them  thoroughly  with  water. 

Brown.  Dissolve  5£  pounds  of  pre- 
pared catechu  in  2  gallons  of  water,  and 
when  the  solution  is  clear,  add  to  every 
gallon  of  it  6  gallons  of  water,  heat  the 
mixture  in  a  boiler  to  100°  F.,  throw 
the  buttons  in,  and  heat  the  bath  for  i 
hour  to  190°  F.,  stirring  constantly. 
Then  allow  them  to  cool,  work  them 
for  i  hour  in  a  bath  of  8|  ounces  of 
potassium  chromate  dissolved  in  6  gal- 
lons of  water,  and  finally  rinse  them 
thoroughly  with  water. 


184 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Dark  Brown.  Add  more  or  less  of 
logwood  liquor  of  4°  B. 

Gray  and  Fancy  Colors.  Boil  10 
pounds  of  gall-nuts  converted  into  a 
coarse  powder  or  sumach,  with  8  gallons 
of  water,  and  pour  3  quarts  of  this  in- 
fusion into  the  dye  boiler  and  add  1£ 
gallons  of  water.  Heat  the  bath  to 
120°  to  145°  F.,  stir  the  buttons  in  it  for 
i  hour,  and  then  place  them  in  a  bath 
of  iron  liquor  of  4°  B.  for  20  to  30  min- 
utes. After  taking  them  from  the  bath 
spread  them  out  in  the  air.  By  treating 
the  buttons  with  the  different  mordants 
mentioned  above,  and  adding  a  little 
liquor  of  logwood,  Brazil  wood,  fustic, 
or  other  liquors,  all  possible  faucy 
colors  can  be  produced. 

Olive  Colors  are  produced  by  dyeing 
with  a  strong  infusion  of  quercitron 
with  a  mordant  of  alum,  then  passing 
them  through  a  strong  iron  mordant, 
and  finally  again  through  the  dye  bath. 
For  producing  shell  colors,  place  5  to  6 
dozens  of  buttons  flat  upon  a  board  and 
sprinkle  them  with  spirit  lacquer  by 
means  of  a  watering-pot.  When  the 
lacquer  is  dry,  dye  the  buttons  in  the 
manner  indicated  above,  but  the  tem- 
perature of  the  bath  must  not  exceed 
95°  to  110°  F.,  since  at  a  higher  tem- 
perature the  lacquer  would  dissolve. 
When  dyed,  bring  the  buttons  in  a 
warm  soda  bath,  which  dissolves  the 
lacquer,  and  the  places  formerly  cov- 
ered by  it  will  appear  white  upon  a 
colored  ground.  In  this  manner  any 
design  can  be  executed  in  all  colors. 

For  Coloring  with  Aniline  Colors, 
place  the  buttons  first  in  a  mordant  con- 
sisting of  a  solution  of  1  ounce  of  tan- 
nin in  6£  gallons  of  hot  water,  allow 
them  to  remain  for  i  hour,  and  then 
bring  them  into  the  aniline  dye-bath, 
heated  to  120°  to  145°  F. 

Blue.  Use  aniline  blue  soluble  in 
water. 

Red.    Fuchsine. 

Scarlet.  Fuchsine  or,  better,  saffron- 
ine  after  the  buttons  have  been  dyed 
pale  yellow  with  fustic  and  tin  mor- 
dant. 

Green.  Use  methyl  or  malachite  green, 
with  an  addition  of  fustic  liquor  or  pic- 
ric acid  if  more  or  less  yellowish -green 
colors  are  to  be  produced.  The  buttons 
dyed  with  aniline  colors  need  not  be 
rinsed  with  water.  They  are  then  thor- 


I  oughly  dried  in  a  warm  place,  and  fin- 
|  ally  polished  in  a  drum  with  chalk  and 
bore  chips. 


INDIGO,  INDIGOTINE,  AND  ALIZA- 
KINE. 

Crystallized  Indigo.     In   preparing 
this  the  oxidation  of  sugar  is  made  use 
of  in  the  following  manner:  Place  in  a 
suitable  small  flask,  with  a  well-ground 
stopper,  £  ounce  of  finely-pulverized 
indigo,  li  ounces  of  a  strongly  concrn- 
I  trated  solution  of  caustic  soda  in  spirit 
of  wine;  then  fill  the  flask  with  boiling 
spirit  of  wine  0.880  specific  gravity,  pre- 
viously saturated  with  glucose  or  honey. 
Shake  the  mixture  thoroughly  and  let 
I  it  rest.     Then  draw  off  the  supernatant 
!  clear  fluid  with  a  siphon  into  an  open 
i  glass  vessel  and  expose  it  to  the  action 
of  atmospheric   air.      The  changff  of 
I  color  which  takes  place  is  remarkable 
j  and  interesting.     A  precipitate  of  pure 
i  indigo  is  formed  which  is  at  first  red, 
j  then    becomes    violet,   and    finally   is 
;  transformed  into  blue.     This,  after  fil- 
tering and  washing  with  spirit  of  wine 
and   hot  water,   is   dried,   and    yields 
about  i  of  1  per  cent,  of  crystallized 
indigo  blue.     By  this  process  the  for- 
eign  substances   remain   either   undis- 
splved,  or,  if  dissolved,  remain  in  solu- 
tion while  the  indigo  is  -precipitated. 

Indigo-carmine.  Place  in  a  porce- 
lain or  earthen  pot  1  part  of  best  indigo, 
finely  pulverized,  and  1  part  each  of 
fuming  and  ordinary  sulphuric  acid, 
and  stir  constantly  to  avoid  too  strong 
!  heating.  Then  cover  the  vessel  and  let 
it  stand  for  24  hours.  When  all  the 
indigo  has  been  dissolved,  which  may 
be  recognized  by  a  drop  taken  from  the 
pot  and  thrown  into  a  glassful  of 
water,  coloring  the  latter  blue  without 
forming  a  precipitate,  pour  the  solution 
into  water,  dilute  it  to  18°  B.,  filter 
and  precipitate  the  indigo-carmine  with 
carbonate  of  potash  or  soda ;  collect  the 
precipitate  upon  a  filter  of  wool  or  felt 
and  let  it  drain  off.  Pure  blue-carmine 
is  soluble  in  pure  water,  but  not  in 
water  containing  salt. 

Acetate  of  Indigo.  Dissolve  1  pound 
of  indigo  in  sulphuric  acid,  mix  the 
solution  with  i  gallon  of  waiter,  then 
add  a  solution  of  7i  pounds  of  sugar  of 


INDIGO,  INDIGOTINE,  AND  ALIZARINE. 


185 


lead,  stir  thoroughly,  add  £  pound  of 
quicklime  slaked  in  1  quart  of  water, 
filter  when  cold,  and  wash.  The  addi- 
tion of  lime  removes  the  free  sulphuric 
acid  from  the  mixture,  which  is  too 
strong  for  many  fabrics,  especially  fine 
cotton  goods. 

Indigo-violet.  Indigo  gives  a  beauti- 
ful pure  violet  color  by  mixing  1  part 
of  pure  indigo  with  5  of  sulphuric  acid 
and  heating  the  mixture  from  88°  to 
100°  F.  Dilute  the  resulting  fluid  with 
10  parts  of  water,  and  by  filtering  it  tiie 
violet-indigo  will  remain  upon  the  filter. 
By  washing  this  with  a  concentrated 
solution  of  carbonate  of  soda  a  durable 
and  beautiful  violet  color  is  obtained, 
while  a  dirty,  greenish  fluid  runs  off. 


all  parts  are  subjected  to  an  equal  tem- 
perature, which  would  not  be  the  case 
if  steam  was  only  conducted  into  the 
cylinder  containing  the  gariincine. 
'The  steam  passes  from  the  boiler 
through  a  cast-iron  pipe  j  laced  in  a 
furnace,  and  before  coming  in  contact 
with  thegarancine  is  conducted  through 
a  globular  reservoir  divided  into  2  parts 
bv  a  perforated  division  and  provided 
with  a  thermometer.  On  the  steam- 
pipe  are  placed  cocks,  by  means  ol 
which  the  progress  of  the  operation  it 
regulated  and,  what  sometimes  may  be- 
come  necessary,  the  steam  conducted 
directly  to  the  product.  Some  alizarine 
is  carried  away  with  the  condensed 
water,  which  can  be  used  in  dyeing. 


Fig.  27. 


Indigo-carmine  in  the  Form  of  Ex- 
tract. Pour  4  parts  of  concentrated 
sulphuric  acid  over  1  of  the  best  dry 
indigo  finely  pulverized,  stirring  con- 
stantly ;  let  the  mixture  stand  for  24 
hours,'  dilute  with  water,  and  filter 
through  a  flannel  cloth.  Precipitate 
the  blue  fluid  with  4  parts  of  common 
salt  and  collect  the  precipitate. 

Kopp's  Process  of  Gaining  Indigotine 
a 'nd  Alizarine.  By  treating  madder 
with  sulphuric  acid  garancine  is  pro- 
duced. This  is  used  for  the  production 
of  alizarine.  It  need  not  be  as  care- 
fully washed  as  when  used  for  dyeing. 
The  garancine  is  placed  in  a  metal  cyl- 
inder surrounded  by  another  cylinder 
into  which  superheated  steam  is  con- 
ducted, while  ordinary  steam  is  passed 
through  the  garancine.  By  these  means 


By  this  process  the  alizarine  is  not 
gained  in  prisms  but  in  grains.  Indigo, 
when  heated,  volatilizes  in  purple  va- 
pors condensing  in  prisms  having  a  deep 
blue  color  with  a  purple  lustre.  This 
is  the  indigotine.  Indigotine  can  also 
be  obtained  synthetically  by  heating 
the  syrupy  modification  of  methyl 
nitro-phenyl  ketone  until  it  is  converted 
into  a  solid'mass,  which,  when  carefully 
heated  with  soda  lime  and  zinc  dust, 
yields  a  small  quantity  of  indigotine. 

The  Apparatus.  Fig.  27  represents 
Kopp's  apparatus  for  preparing  indigo- 
tine and  alizarine.  a  is  the  steam- 
boiler,  b  the  steam-pipe,  c  the  furnace 
for  superheating  the  steam,  which  passes 
into  the  furnace  from  the  pipe  b  through 
the  pipe  d,  and  passes  out  througJi  the 
pipe  e.  g  h  are  cocks  for  regulating  the 


186 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


current  of  steam.  When  the  cock  g  is 
closed  and  the  cock  h  open,  the  steam 
passes  from  the  boiler  into  the  super- 
heating apparatus  and  acquires  there  a 
temperature  of  570°  to  660°  F.,  but, 
when  the  cock  g  is  open  and  h  closed, 
passes  directly  to  the  chambers  m,  and 
finally,  when  both  cocks  are  half  open, 
half  of  the  steam  is  superheated  while 
the  other  half  remains  in  the  ordinary 
condition,  and  both  enter  the  chamber 
m,  where  they  mix.  The  globular  cast- 
iron  chamber  m  is  divided  into  2  parts 
by  a  perforated  division  indicated  in  the 
illustration.  The  object  of  this  is  to 
mix  the  superheated  and  ordinary  steam. 
In  one  of  the  partitions  of  the  chamber 
is  placed  a  thermometer,  i,  which  indi- 
cates the  temperature  of  the  mixed 
steam.  The  pipes  must  be  all  covered 
with  non-conductors.  The  copper  cyl- 
inder /  contains  the  dry  garancine  in 
pieces  as  large  as  a  nut,  and  is  placed 
between  2  partitions.  It  communicates 
with  the  chamber  m  by  a  pipe  provided 
with  the  cock  k.  n  is  a  cylinder  sur- 
rounding the  cylinder/  and  connected 
with  the  chamber  m  by  a  pipe  provided 
with  the  cock  I,  through  which  the 
steam  is  introduced  into  the  cylinder  /. 
The  excess  of  steam  is  conveyed  into 
the  open  air  through  a  pipe  provided 
with  the  cock  n.  R  is  the  cooling  ap- 
paratus into  which  pass  the  products 
of  distillation  through  the  pipe  p,  which 
communicates  with  the  cylinder  /. 

The  Operation.  After  the  furnace 
for  superheating  the  steam  has  acquired 
a  temperature  of  660°  F.,  and  the  cylin- 
der /  has  been  filled  with  garancine, 
superheated  steam,  the  temperature  of 
which  is  gradually  raised  to  356°  F.,  is 
allowed  to  circulate  in  the  cylinder  n. 
The  cylinder  /  and  the  garancine  soon 
acquire  both  a  uniform  temperature, 
when  by  opening  the  cock  k  the  super- 
heated steam  is  admitted  to  this  cylin- 
der. The  temperature  of  the  steam  is 
then  raised  to  392°  F.,  next  to  445°  F., 
and  finally  to  465°  F.  The  sublima- 
tion and  distillation  of  the  alizarine 
commences  at  390°  F.  It  volatilizes  in 
orange-yellow  vapors  condensing  to  a 
powder  of  the  same  color.  The  cool- 
ing apparatus  may  be  divided  in  2 
parts,  1  of  which  is  kept  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  nearly  212°  F.,  while  the  other 
is  entirely  cooled  off.  The  greatest  part 


of  the  alizarine  condenses  in  the  first. 
When  distillation  is  finished  the  ali- 
zarine is  collected  upon  a  filter. 

The  property  of  alizarine  to  form  in- 
soluble colored  m'etallic  compounds  is 
made  use  of  in  dyeing  and  printing. 
To  produce  madder  colors  on  calico  the 
desired  pattern  is  printed  on  the  cloth 
as  mordant.  For  pinks  and  reds  a  solu- 
tion of  aluminium  acetate  which  is 
thickened  with  gum  or  starch  is  used, 
and  for  purples  and  blacks,  ferrous  ace- 
tate (iron  liquor)  is  employed,  while  a 
mixture  of  the  2  salts  produces  brown 
or  chocolate  colors.  The  mordanted 
cloth  is  next  hung  up  in  a  warm,  airy 
room,  whereby  the  acetic  acid  is  ex- 
pelled and  the  oxides  are  fixed  in  the 
fibre.  The  cloth  is  now  brought  into 
the  dye-bath,  consisting  of  boiling  water 
and  old  ground  madder  root ;  the  ali- 
zarine is  gradually  dissolved  and  ab- 
sorbed by  the  oxides. 

Artificial  Alizarine  is  chiefly  used  for 
"  topical "  printing;  for  this  purpose  it 
is  printed  together  with  the  mordant  on 
the  cloth,  which  is  then  steamed  or 
heated  to  212°  F. ;  the  alizarine  dissolves 
in  the  free  acetic  acid,  which  soon  vola- 
tilizes, while  the  alizarine  combines  with 
the  oxides.  The  colors  thus  produced 
are  more  brilliant  than  those  obtained 
by  dyeing  with  madder. 

As  artificial  alizarine  is  now  brought 
into  commerce  in  a  pure  state,  and  in  a 
paste  of  10  per  cent,  concentration,  we 
give  in  the  following  a  few  receipts  for 
printing  colors  based  upon  a  10  per  cent, 
paste  of  alizarine,  which  have  been 
tested  and  given  excellent  results : 

Dark  Red.  Alizarine  o&  pounds,  in- 
spissation  (see  below)  17i  pounds,  alu- 
minium acetate  of  10°  B.  1  pound,  cal- 
cium acetate  of  16°  B.  81  ounces. 

Rose  Color  is  obtained  by  brightening 
the  above  with  the  inspissation  for  red. 
Articles,  the  first  print  on  which  is  dark 
red,  must,  before  smoothing,  be  steamed 
for  1  hour.  After  over  printing  they 
are  again  steamed  for  1  hour,  hung  up 
for  24  hours,  and  then  drawn  for  1  to 
H  minutes  through  one  of  the  following 
baths:  Water  220  gallons,  chalk  06 
pounds,  tin  salt  3£  pounds.  Or,  water 
264  gallons,  chalk  44  pounds,  and 
sodium  arseniate  11  pounds.  The  bath 
should  have  a  temperature  of  120°  to 
145°  F.  The  pieces  are  then  washed 


INKS.    LITHOGRAPHIC,  PRINTING  AND  WRITING.         187 


and  brightened.  For  10  pieces  of  50 
yards:  1.  Soap:  3  pounds  of  soap,  4 
ounces  of  tin  salt  at  122°  F.  for  4  hour. 
2.  Soap :  3  pounds  of  soap  without  tin 
salt  at  Ki7°  F.  for  4  hour.  3.  Soap : 
3  pounds  of  soap  without  tin  salt  at  lt>7° 
to  176°  F.  for  4  hour.  The  fabrics, 
after  passing  through  1  soap  bath, 
must  be  washed  before  placing  them  in 
the  next. 

fngpiggation  for  Red.  Boil  thor- 
oughly 13  pounds  of  wheat  starch,  5 
gallons  of  water,  3  quarts  of  acetic  acid 
of  6°  B.,  24  gallons  of  gum  tragacanth 
mucilage,  and  3  pounds  of  olive  oil. 

The  gum  tragacanth  mucilage  is  pre- 
pared by  dissolving  10  ounces  of  the 
guin  to  every  gallon  of  water. 

Aluminium  Acetate.  Mix  3  pounds 
of  aluminium  hydrate  with  14  gallons 
of  acetic  acid,  heat  the  mixture  and 
filter,  and  dilute  it  afterwards  to  any 
desired  degree.  / 

Aluminium  Hydrate.  Dissolve  80 
pounds  of  alum  in  100  gallons  of  water 


and  precipitate  it  with  a  solution  of  68 
pounds  of  soda  in  100  gallons  of  water. 
Wash  the  precipitate  8  times  by  decan- 


tation,  then  collect  it  upon  a  filter  and 
finally  press  it  out.  A  10  per  cent, 
paste  generally  requires  an  addition  of 
20  per  cent,  of  its  weight  of  aluminium 
acetate  of  12°  B. 

Solution  of  Calcium  Acetate  of  16° 
B.  contains  25  per  cent,  of  calcium  ace- 
tate. For  alizarine  paste  thoroughly 
washed  out,  10  per  cent,  of  its  weight 
of  the  solution  will  be  required,  but  it 
is  advisable  to  ascertain  by  a  test  the 
necessary  addition  of  calcium  acetate 
to  every  portion  of  alizarine. 

Printing  Colors  for  Red  and  Violet 
Articles  by  using  a  Paste  containing  10 
per  cent,  of  dry  Dyestuff.  Eight  and 
three-fourth  pounds  of  alizarine,  2  gal- 
lons of  inspissation  (see  above),  10 
ounces  of  aluminium  nitrate  of  15°  B., 
14  pounds  of  aluminium  acetate  of  10° 
B.,  and  14  ounces  of  calcium  acetate  of 
10°  B. 

Very  Dark  Red.  Ten  pounds  of  ali- 
zarine, 2  gallons  of  inspissation  (see 
above),  14  ounces  of  aluminium  nitrate 
of  15°  B.,  14  pounds  of  aluminium  ace- 
tate of  10°  B.,  and  1  pound  of  calcium 
acetate  of  16°  B. 

Aluminium  Nitrate.  Three  and  a 
half  ounces  of  lead  nitrate,  2  pounds  of 


'  alum,  and  4  gallon  of  water.  By  using 
aluminium  nitrate  the  red  becomes 
more  yellow  than  when  aluminium  ace- 
tate is  employed,  the  former  requiring 
also  more  calcium  acetate  than  the 
latter. 

Another  Red  without  Oil.  Boil  thor- 
oughly alizarine  9i  pounds,  acetic 
acid  of  8°  B.  104  pounds,  flour  4 
pounds,  water  4  gallon;  stir  until  cold 
and  then  add  calcium  acetate  of  lb'° 
B.  17  ounces,  aluminium  nitrate  2 
pounds,  and  calcium  hyposulphite  of 
9°  B.  3  pounds. 

Violet  Printing  Color.  Alizarine  3 
pounds,  inspissation  (see  below)  24 
gallons,  methyl  acetate  of  iron  of  12° 
B.  7  ounces,  and  calcium  acetate  of 
16°  B.  13  ounces. 

Violet  Inspiration.  Boil  thoroughly 
10  pounds  of  starch,  4  gallons  of  water, 
2gallonsof  mucilage  of  gum  tragacanth, 
2^  ounces  of  gum  to  every  quart  of 
water,  24  quarts  of  acetic  acid  of  6°  B., 
and  2  pounds  of  olive  oil,  and  stir  until 
cold. 

The  printed  fabric  is  steamed  for  1 
to  2  hours  at  a  pressure  of  half  an 
atmosphere  and  hung  up  for  24  to  36 
hours.  It  is  then  passed  for  14  to  2 
hours  through  the  following  bath  at  a 
temperature  of  120°  to  145°  F. :  Water 
220  gallons,  chalk  44  pounds,  sodium 
arseniate  11  pounds.  It  is  then  washed 
and  soaped  at  145°  to  167°  F.  for  1  hour, 
with  34  pounds  of  soap  for  every  10 
pieces,  each  50  yards  long.  It  is  then 
washed,  dried,  and  finally,  if  necessary, 
slightly  chloridated. 

Geitner's  Alizarine  Liquor.  Pour 
over  4  part  of  madder  root  cut  up  in  a 
matrass,  6  parts  of  alcohol  of  94  per 
cent.,  and  let  it  digest  for  24  hours  at  an 
ordinary  temperature,  shaking  it  fre- 
quently. By  filtering  through  blotting- 
paper  a  clear  brownish-yellow  tincture 
is  obtained  which  is  known  as  "  *  7"~ 
arine  Liquor." 


•Alaz- 


INKS.      LITHOGRAPHIC,     PRINTING 
AND  WRITING. 

Good  printing-ink  possesses  the  fol- 
lowing properties:  A  homogeneous 
mass  of  a  glossy  black  color,  unchanged 
by  exposure  for  a  considerable  time  to 
the  air,  and  quickly  drying  after  print- 


188 


TECHNO  CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


ing  ;  of  a  consistency  sufficient  to  pre- 
vent its  penetrating  too  deep  into  the 
paper  to  blur  the  appearance  of  print- 
ing on  the  other  side.  Linseed  oil  is 
the  principal  ingredient  in  the  manu- 
facture of  printing-ink.  The  oil  should 
be  of  good  quality,  as  an  inferior  article 
gives  a  bad  smell  and  rusty  shade  of 
color.  The  oil  is  refined  by  being 
mixed  with  a  small  percentage  of  con- 
centrated sulphuric  acid  and  heated 
for  a  few  hours  at  a  temperature  not 
exceeding  212°  F.,  and  allowed  to  settle, 
after  which  it  is  drawn  off  from  the 
sulphuric  acid  and  repeatedly  washed 
with  warm  water  until  every  trace  of 
,  the  acid  is  removed.  The  oil,  if  treated 
in  the  right  manner,  should  have  a  light 
yellow  color  and  be  entirely  free  from 
smell.  It  must  be  protected  from  the 
air,  as  in  this  condition  it  will  dry  very 
quickly. 

The  refined  oil  is  then  heated  to  such 
a  degree  that  a  part  of  it  becomes  de- 
composed. Specially  constructed  ves- 
sels must  be  used  for  this  purpose,  as 
the  volume  of  the  oil  increases  in  an 
extraordinary  degree  in  consequence  of 
the  many  bubbles  which  are  formed. 
The  most  suitable  apparatus  used  for 
this  purpose  is  represented  in  Fig.  28. 
It  consists  of  a  cylinder  of  sheet  iron. 
A  rim  bent  upwards  like  a  shell  is 
placed  about  half  way  up  on  the  sides 
of  the  cylinder.  The  top  of  the  cylinder 
is  surrounded  by  a  strong  iron  ring  on 
which  are  fastened  the  chains  of  a 
tackle  which  enables  the  attendants  to 
lift  the  cylinder  quickly  from  the  fire- 
place. A  helmet  or  cover  of  sheet  iron, 
fitting  as  air-tight  as  possible,  com- 
pletes the  apparatus,  which  should  be 
erected  in  a  fire-proof  room.  A  flue 
connected  with  a  well-drawing  chimney 
is  placed  in  the  roof  of  the  building  to 
carry  off  the  injurious  vapors  arising 
from  the  boiling  linseed  oil.  The 
workman  should  be  provided  with  a 
stool  high  enough  to  enable  him  con- 
veniently to  take  samples  out  of  the 
cylinder.  The  chains  of  the  tackle  are 
fastened  to  a  movable  crane  so  that  at 
the  word  of  command  an  assistant  can 
lift  the  cylinder  immediately  from  the 
fire  and  move  it  aside.  The  cylinder 
is  filled  only  half  full  with  oil,  a  strong 
fire  being  kept  under  it  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  work.  The  oil  will 


soon  commence  to  bubble,  making  a 
crackling  noise.     This  is  caused  by  the 


Fig.  28. 

escape  of  water  vapors  which  are  de- 
veloped from  the  oil,  and  originate 
from  water  mixed  mechanically  with 
it.  It  ceases  in  a  short  time,  and  as  the 
temperature  rises,  the  oil,  having  now 
become  entirely  black,  swims  quietly 
and  uniformly  in  the  cylinder. 

From  this  moment  on  the  oil  rises 
constantly  in  the  cylinder,  and  throws 
out  small  bubbles*  where  it  comes  in 
contact  with  the  walls  of  the  cylinder. 
As  soon  as  vapors  of  a  pungent  odor 
commence  to  rise  from  the  oil,  the  at- 
tendant must  observe  the  strictest  vigi- 
lance. The  moment  the  entire  mass  of 
the  oil  commences  to  bubble  up,  and 
vapors  are  also  evolved  from  the  inr 
terior,  the  fire  must  be  quickly  moder 
ated  or  the  fluid  will  surely  boil  over, 
be  the  vessel  never  so  capacious  If  the 
oil  should  continue  to  rise  notwith- 
standing the  fire  having  been  moder- 


INKS.    LITHOGRAPHIC,  PRINTING,  AND  WRITING.          189 


ated,  the  cylinder  must  at  once  be  lifted 
from   the   hearth,   and    only   replaced  j 
when  the  oil  has  subsided. 

The  best  plan  is  to  keep  the  oil  at 
Buch  a  temperature  that  the  developed 
vapors  ignite  on  coming  in  contact  with 
a  lighted  candle,  but  will  go  out  when 
the  flame  is  removed,  or  can  be  at  least 
easily  extinguished  by  placing  the 
cover  upon  the  cylinder.  The  firing  is 
then  regulated  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  vapors  will  be  developed  quietly 
and  uniformly  without  a  further  rising 
of  the  contents,  and  the  condition  of  the 
oil  is  tested  by  the  "  thread-test." 

To  make  this  test,  a  small  quantity 
of  the  oil  is  taken  from  the  cylinder 
with  a  wooden  spatula.  This  is  cooled 
off  by  swinging  it  to  and  fro,  and  a  drop 
of  it  is  then  squeezed  between  the  fin- 
gers and  drawn  out.  In  doing  this  a 
viscid  thread  1£  to  2  inches  long  before 
breaking  should  be  formed  from  one 
finger  to  the  other.  If  the  thread 
breaks  before  reaching  that  length,  the 
boiling  must  be  continued.  If  the 
sample  is  of  the  requisite  quality,  the 
cylinder  is  at  once  lifted  from  the  fire 
and  the  varnish  allowed  to  cool  off;  or 
it  is  subjected  to  what  is  technically 
called  "burning."  This  consists  in 
igniting  the  vapors  and  allowing  the 
varnish  to  burn  for  about  five  minutes, 
when  the  fire  is  extinguished  by  plac- 
ing the  cover  upon  the  cylinder. 

Burning  the  varnish  makes  it  very 
dark.  This,  of  course,  is  of  no  conse- 
quence when  it  is  to  be  used  for  black 
printing-ink,  but  it  is  best  to  omit  the 
burning  if  the  varnish  is  to  be  used  for 
colored  inks;  in  fact,  for  delicate  shades 
of  color,  burned  varnish  cannot  be  at 
all  used. 

Hemp  oil  being  much  cheaper  than 
linseed  oil  is  sometimes  used  in  place 
of  the  latter.  It  produces  a  tolerably 
good  ink,  but  the  disagreeable  odor  of 
the  oil  adheres  to  it,  and  for  this  reason 
varnish  prepared  with  this  oil  should 
never  be  used  for  fine  colors. 

The  consistency  of  a  printing-ink  de- 
pends upon  the  purpose  for  which  it  is 
to  be  used  ;  the  more  elegant  the  print- 
ing is  to  be,  the  more  the  varnish  must 
be  boiled  down,  and  the  greater  will  be 
the  expense  of  producing  the  ink.  For 
newspapers  and,  generally  speaking, 
for  matter  which  must  be  printed 


quickly,  a  more  fluid  varnish  is  used 
than  for  printing  books.  The  thickest 
varnish  is  used  for  copper  plate  and 
lithographic  printing. 

Sometimes  rosin  is  added  to  the  var- 
nish so  that  it  will  not  be  required  to  be 
boiled  down  so  much.  It  is  best  to  use 
the  ordinary,  pure,  brown  pine  rosin 
for  black  printing-ink,  but  the  light- 
colored  American  rosin  is  more  suitable 
for  printing  colors.  The  rosin  should 
be  refined  by  melting  and  filtering  to 
prevent  pebbles  or  plant-parts,  fre- 
quently mixed  with  the  rosin,  firm 
getting  into  the  varnish.  The  rosin  is 
added  to  the  oil  when  the  latter  has 
been  heated  so  far  that  its  boiling  is 
j  lainly  noticeable  on  the  edge  of  the 
cylinder.  For  120  parts  of  linseed  oil, 
40  to  50  of  rosin,  and  also  12  to  14  of 
soap,  are  used.  The  purpose  in  adding 
soap  is  to  facilitate  the  cleansing  of  the 
forms,  which  then  can  be  accomplished 
by  washing  thtm  with  a  brush.  The 
sc  an  to  be  used  must  be  entirely  dry. 
Yellow  rosin  soap  answers  for  ordinary 
printing-ink,  but  white  tallow  soap 
must  be  used  for  fine  colors. 

For  black  printing-ink,  lampblack 
prepared  in  a  special  apparatus  is  gen- 
erally used;  for  printing  colors  the 
various  mineral  and  lac  colors.  All 
substances  used  for  coloring  must  I  e 
rubbed  very  fine  and  the  coloring  mat- 
ter mixed  with  the  varnish  in  the  most 
careful  manner,  so  as  to  obtain  an  ab- 
solutely uniform  color. 

We  give  a  number  of  receipts  for  pre- 
paring printing-inks. 

I.  Mix  between  rollers  16  pounds  of 
prepared  linseed  oil,  3  ounces  of  pul- 
verized indigo,  or  a  like  quantity  of 
Berlin   blue,   and   8   pounds  of  finest 
lampblack.      The  linseed  oil  is  used 
hot. 

II.  Dissolve  a  small  quantity  of  black 
rosin  or  melted  amber  in  30  parts  of  old 
linseed  oil ;  boil  it  to  a  thick  lacquer 
and  let  it  cool.    Allow  the  mixture  to 
stand   for  a   few  months  for  the  im- 
purities to  settle,  and  then  mix  it  with 
at   least  15  parts  of  fined  lampblack, 
and  grind  the  whole  fine  in  a  suitable 
mill. 

III.  Boil  down  100  parts  of  old  lin- 
seed oil  or  nut  oil  to  the  consistency  of 
syrup ;  then,  in  order  to  clean  it  from 
impurities,  add  2  parts  of  bread  and  a 


190 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


few  onions,  and  ignite  the  compound 
several  times,  so  that  it  is  reduced  to  £ 
of  its  weight.  Now  boil  30  to  35  parts 
of  turpentine  until  a  sample  taken  from 
the  boiler  and  placed  upon  paper  ap- 
pears, when  cold,  clear,  and  breaks  off 
without  crumbling.  Then  mix  both 
the  fluids,  which  should  be  cold  and  of 
the  consistency  of  syrup,  boil  up  once 
more,  add  the  necessary  quantity  of 
lampblack,  and  grind  the  whole. 

IV.  Rub  fine  upon  a  marble  slab  10 
ounces    of   rosin,   3  ounces  of    lamp- 
black, i  ounce  of  Berlin  blue,  alike 
quantity  of  indigo,  i  ounce  of  indigo- 
red,  and  a  like  quantity  of  dry,  yellow 
rosin  soap. 

V.  Melt  together,  with  constant  stir- 
ring, 1  pound  of  rosin  oil,  13  ounces  of 
rosin,  ami  3  ounces  of  soft  yellow  soap, 
until  a  homogeneous  mixture  is  formed. 
The  consistency  is  regulated  by  an  ad- 
dition of  rosin  oil.      Lampblack  and 
other  coloring  substances   are    added 
after  the  varnish  is  cold. 

VI.  The  heavy  tar  oil  remaining  in 
the  manufacture  of  anthracene  is  boiled 
with  about  10  per  cent,  of  chloride  of 
copper.    The  oil  assumes  a  black-brown 
color,  and  requires  then   but  a  small 
quantity  (about  2  per  cent.)  of  aniline- 
violet  sebate. 

Printing-ink  from  Coal-tar.  Heat 
coal-tar  with  6  to  15  per  cent,  of  co- 
lophony and  10  per  cent,  of  paraffine 
oil.  Treat  the  varnish  with  chloride 
of  soda  or  chloride  of  lime  and 
hydrochloric  acid,  to  remove  the  odor 
of  the  tar  and  paraffiue  oil.  Heat  the 
purified  varnish  and  compound  it  with 
20  to  25  per  cent,  of  glycerine  and  18 
per  cent,  of  lampblack,  and  then 
grind. 

By  another  process  the  coal-tar  is 
heated  with  sulphuric  acid,  the  mass 
neutralized  with  soda,  and  then  treated 
with  chlorine.  The  varnish  is  boiled 
with  2i  to  3  per  cent,  of  lard  and  4  to  5 
per  cent,  of  glycerine,  or  in  place  of  the 
latter,  with  8  to  10  per  cent,  of  soap, 
when  it  is  filtered  and  rubbed  up  with 
A  to  &  pound  of  lampblack.  For 
finer  colors  a  dark  aniline  color  is  dis- 
solved in  the  glycerine,  or  2  to  5  per 
cent,  of  extract  of  logwood,  besides  chro- 
mate  of  potash,  alum,  or  tartar  is  added 
to  the  varnish. 

Thick  Printer's  Varnish  with  Coal- 


tar  Varnish  Oil.  Boil  55  pounds  of 
linseed  oil  with  6i  pounds  of  fine 
litharge  until  the  oil,  on  cooling, 
thickens ;  then  allow  it  to  settle  quietly. 
Now  melt  22  pounds  of  light  American 
rosin,  add  it  to  the  thick  linseed-oil 
varnish,  and  continue  boiling  for  some 
time,  and  finally  add  11  pounds  of  coal- 
tar  varnish  oil,  continue  heating  for 
some  time  and  then  stir  until  cold.  The 
varnish  should  be  thickly  fluid  and  of 
the  consistency  of  honey. 

Fine  Printers-ink  with  Coal-tar 
Varnish  Oil.  Rub  22  pounds  of  semi- 
calcined  lampblack  very  fine  upon  a 
stone  slab,  and  add  gradually  some 
rectified  spirit  of  turpentine  until  a 
thick  paste  is  formed ;  continue  rubbing 
until  the  compound  acquires  a  gloss. 
Now  rub  22  pounds  more  of  semi- 
calcined  lampblack  to  the  same  con- 
sistency but  with  an  addition  of  coal- 
tar  varnish  oil,  and  intimately  mix 
both  compounds.  Then  rub  upon  a 
stone  slab  4|  pounds  of  Parisian  blue, 
add  81  ounces  of  dryer,  then  the  above 
mixture  of  lampblack,  and  mix  all 
together. 

This  printing-ink  is  specially  adapted 
for  fine  lithographic  work,  cards,  and 
artistic  printing. 

Black  Printing  Colors  patented  in 
Germany  are  prepared  from  45  parts  of 
anthracene  oil  (green  oil)  previously 
boiled  with  5  per  cent,  of  chloride  of 
copper,  40  parts  of  pitch  or  asphaltum, 
12  parts  of  soft  soap,  5  to  8  parts  of  train 
oil,  and  3  to  15  parts  of  aniline  colors 
soluble  in  alcohol.  To  remove  the  un- 
pleasant smell  of  the  anthracene  oil 
treat  it  at  a  temperature  of  above  212° 
F.  with  nitric  acid. 

New  Process  of  Preparing  Pt^inting- 
inks.  In  place  of  linseed-oil  varnish 
solutions  of  40  to  50  parts  of  rosin 
or  other  resins  in  25  of  paraffine  oil  are 
used. 

Printing  and  Stamping  Ink  con- 
taining Iron.  Add  to  inks  prepared 
from  linseed-oil  varnish,  combinations 
of  ferric  or  ferrous  oxides  or  metallic 
iron.  These  form  an  intimate  combi- 
nation with  the  cellulose  and  sizing  of 
the  paper,  in  which,  even  if  the  black 
of  the  ink  is  entirely  destroyed  for 
fraudulent  purposes,  the  iron  can  be 
accurately  pointed  out. 

Bronze   Color  for  Direct  Printing 


INKS.    LITHOGRAPHIC,  PRINTING,  AND  WRITING.        191 


upon  Paper,  Oil-cloth,  etc.  The  gold 
and  silver  designs  on  wall  papers,  oil- 
cloth, etc.,  were  formerly  produced  by 
applying  gold  leaf  or  silver  leaf  to  the 
design,  printed  with  thick  linseed-oil 
varnish,  or  some  other  agglutinant,  or 
dusting  it  with  bronze  powder.  In  the 
new  process  the  bronze  powder  is  mixed 
with  the  agglutinant  and  printed  di- 
rectly upon  the  paper.  Water-glass  is 
an  excellent  agglutinant  for  this  pur- 
pose. By  rubbing  up  1  part  by  weight 
of  bronze  powder  with  2  parts  by  weight 
of  water-glass,  a  printing  color  is  ob- 
tained, which,  on  being  applied  to  the 
blocks  or  rollers,  can  be  at  once  trans- 
ferred to  paper,  oil-cloth,  or  tissue,  and 
wood  or  metal  surfaces.  The  bronze 
print  prepared  in  this  manner  dries 
very  quick,  cannot  be  removed  by 
water  or  oil  (if  not  boiling),  and  is  in- 
sensible to  heat  and  light.  If,  in  print- 
ing, the  bronze  color  dries  too  quickly, 
dilute  it  with  10  to  12  per  cent,  of  water, 
or  5  to  10  per  cent,  of  sugar  syrup,  the 
latter  giving,  besides,  more  body  to  the 
color. 

Black  Printing-ink  which  may  also 
be  used  as  Etching  Ground.  Heat  and 
mix  intimately  40  parts  of  pitch  or  as- 
phaltum,  28  of  rectified  tar  oil,  8  of  ani- 
line-violet sebate,  24  of  residue  of  the 
distillation  of  black  rosin  oil. 

Preparation  of  Tannin  Black  and  its 
Use  for  Printing-ink  and  other  Pur- 
poses. Chips  and  all  kinds  of  waste 
of  leather,  animal  waste  containing 
glue  and  gelatine,  and  substances  con- 
taining tannic  acid  serve  as  raw  ma- 
terial in  manufacturing  tannin  black. 

I.  One  thousand  pounds  of  the  mate- 
rial are  heated  with  about  350  gallons  of 
water.    After  the  liquid  is  drawn  off, 
water  is  again  poured  upon  the  mass. 
About  50  pounds  of  caustic  soda  are 
then  added,  the  whole  is  boiled  for  a 
few  hours,  and  the  liquid  then  drawn 
off  and  added  to  the  first  liquid,  to  which 
90  pounds  of  sulphate  of  iron  have  been 
added.     After  the  second  liquid  has 
been  added,  30  pounds  more  of  sulphate 
of  iron  with  some  alum  are  added  to 
complete  precipitation.    The  mass,  after 
being  sufficiently  stirred,  is  then  filtered. 
To  prevent  subsequent  moulding  3  gal- 
lons of  heavy  tar  oil  are  added  to  each 
of  the  liquids  drawn  off. 

II.  According  to  another  process,  the 


same  proportions  of  material  and  water 
are  brought  into  a  steam  boiler,  and 
30  pounds  of  caustic  soda  and  3  gallons 
of  heavy  tar  oil  added.  The  whole  is 
evaporated  for  a  few  hours  and  then 
drawn  off  into  a  pan.  Here  the  same 
quantity  of  sulphate  of  iron  as  given  in 
1.  is  added,  with  350  gallons  of  water, 
40  pounds  of  caustic  soda,  and  3  gallons 
of  tar  oil.  The  whole  is  then  boiled, 
the  fluid  drawn  off,  30  pounds  of  sul- 
phate of  iron  are  added,  and  the  pre- 
cipitate treated  as  above.  For  printing- 
ink,  the  black,  to  which  some  prussiato 
of  potash,  or  some  decoction  of  logwood 
has  been  previously  added,  is  evaporated 
to  i  its  weight,  and  then  mixed  with 
linseed-oil  varnish.  For  shoe-black  ing 
the  black  is  mixed  with  rosin  soap  and 
decomposed  with  hydrochloric  acid, 
and  then  syrup,  sugar  waste,  chloride 
of  potash,  non-drying  oil,  and  crude 
glycerine  are  added  in  suitable  propor- 
tions. 

Lithographic  Inks.  I.  Melt  10  ounces 
of  wax,  8  ounces  of  shellac,  5  ounces  of 
mastic,  4  ounces  each  of  pure  tallow 
and  hard  tallow  soap,  and  i  ounce  of 
Venetian  turpentine,  and  mix  with  this 
2-J  ounces  of  lampblack.  This  ink  is 
rubbed  up  with  water  like  water-colors 
and  forms  an  emulsion. 

II.  consists  of  a  mixture  of  2  ounces 
of  suet,  3^  ounces  each  of  white  wax  and 
of  soap,  i  ounce  of  shellac,  If  ounces 
of  mastic,  i  ounce  of  butter,  and  i  ounce 
of  caoutchouc  dissolved  in  oil  of  laven- 
der, and  li  ounces  of  lampblack. 

The  solid  ingredients  are  triturated 
and  melted,  the  solution  of  caoutchouc 
is  then  carefully  added,  the  mass  being 
constantly  stirred.  It  is  then  ignited 
and  allowed  to  burn  for  2  minutes,  when 
it  "is  extinguished  by  placing  the  lid 
upon  the  vessel  containing  it.  It  is 
then  mixed  with  the  lampblack  by  rub- 
bing on  a  stone,  again  melted  and  poured 
out,  and  allowed  to  become  cold. 

III.  Heat  40  parts  of  yellow  wax  un- 
til the  vapors  emitted  become  ignited. 
Then  take  it  from  the  fire  and  add  grad- 
ually 10  parts  of  mastic,  28  of  gum  lac, 
and  22  of  Castile  soap,  and  mix  it  with 
9  parts  of  lampblack;  then  ignite  the 
compound,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  ex- 
tinguish the  flame,  pour  the  mass  upon 
a  stone,  and,  when  cold,  divide  it  into 
disks. 


192 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


IV.  Another  kind  consists  of  3  parts  '  always  be  found  in  ordinary  inkstands, 
of  shellac,  4  of  soap,  6  of  white  wax,  2    and  this  the  quicker  the  more  the  ink 

of  tallow,  and  6  of  a  strong  solution  of    :"  — *""*  ""*''  ~4™-— -'•—  -"-  -:- 

sandarac,  and  sufficient  lampblack  to 
color  the  mixture  black. 

Autographic  Ink  consists  of  10  parts 
of  dry  soap,  10  of  wax,  5  each  of  shellac 


comes  in  contact  with  atmospheric  air. 
An  ink  available  for  documents  must 
not  be  so  much  obliterated  by  water  or 
absolute  alcohol  as  to  render  the  writ- 
ing indiscernible. 

Ink  may  be  either  a  clear  solution  of 
any  coloring  matter,  or,  as  is  generally 
the  case  with  ordinary  writing-ink,  con- 
sist of  a  finely-divided  iusoluule  pre- 
cipitate, held  in  suspension  in  water. 
The  principal  materials  used  in  prepar- 
ing this  kind  of  ink  are  gall-nuts,  sul- 
phate of  iron,  and  gum,  used  in  various 
proportions.  The  gall-nuts  are  con- 
verted into  a  coarse  powder  and  boiled 

^.^jno.v^w.wy.vui,..™ *..*.».  *.  ~*,v^~v,    with  water,  or,  what  is  better,  digested 
and  mix  together  12  parts  of  shellac,  8    for  several  hours  in  water  of  a  temper- 
of  mastic,  and  melt  in  1  of  Venetian    ature  near  the  boiling  point ;  the  decoc- 
Remove  the  vessel 


and  mastic,  and  3  each  of  mutton  tallow 
and  fine  lampblack. 

Lithographic  Printing-ink  is  pre- 
pared by  melting  together  8  parts  each 
of  tallow,  soap,  and  wax,  6  of  shellac, 
and  4  of  mastic,  and  adding  the  neces- 
sary lampblack.  It  is  used  to  make 
imprints  upon  paper  from  engraved 
plates,  which  are  then  transferred  to 
the  lithographic  stones. 

Lithographic  Ink.  Pulverize 


turpentine.  Remove  the  vessel  from 
tLe  fire,  add  16  parts  of  wax  and  6  of 
tallow,  and  when  they  are  melted  add 
6  parts  of  hard  tallow  soap  cut  into 
shavings,  and  11  parts  of  lampblack. 

The  mass,  after  having  been  inti- 
mately mixed  by  boiling,  is  allowed  to 
cool  off  somewhat,  and  is  then,  while 
still  in  a  liquid  state,  poured  upon  a 
marble  slab,  and,  when  cold,  cut  into 
square  pieces 

The  principal  property  of  a  good 
lithographic  ink  is  that  it  does  not 
penetrate  into  the  stone,  so  that  the  most 
delicate  lines  of  a  drawing  will  stand  a 
great  number  of  impressions.  It  must 


tion  is  then  filtered  and  the  dissolved 
sulphate  of  iron  and  gum  are  added. 
In  the  following  we  give  a  few  receipts  : 

I.  12  parts  of  gall-nuts,  5  of  sulphate 
of  iron,  5  of  gum-Senegal,  and  120  of 
water  furnishes  a  very  useful  ink  for 
ordinary  purposes. 

II.  The  following  gives  a  beautiful 
writing-ink :  11  parts  of  gall-nuts,  2  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  f  part    of  solution 
of  indigo,  and  33  of  water. 

The  quantities  in  the  above  receipt 
being  proportionally  larger,  allow  of 
the  omission  of  the  gum,  while  the 
solution  of  indigo  imparts  a  deeper, 
brilliant  black.  Although  the  writing 


therefore  be  capable  of  resisting  the  j  executed  with  this  ink  can  be  removed 
acid,  with  which  the  stone  is  prepared,  j  from  the  paper  by  diluted  acid,  it  can 


to  such  a  degree  that  not  even  the 
smallest  particle  of  the  fatty  substances 
is  attacked  by  it. 

Writ! mj-i nl:.  Although  there  is  per- 
haps no  other  chemical  preparation  in 
such  general  use  as  writing-ink,  but  few 
inks  answer  all  requirements.  This 
may  be  explained  by  the  circumstance 
that  receipts  for  ink  cannot  be  calcu- 
lated according  to  a  chemical  formula, 
but  largely  depend  on  experiments,  and 
that  we  are  forced  to  use  the  collected 
results  of  such  experiments.  A  good 
black  writing-ink  must  readily  flow 
from  the  pen,  show  either  at  once  or  in 
a  short  time  a  deep  black  color,  and 
must  not  attack  the  pen  or  the  paper. 
When  kept  in  a  hermetically  closed 
vessel  no  sediment  of  any  account 
should  be  formed,  although  such  will 


be  restored  by  chemical  means. 

III.  Boil  2  pounds  of  pulverized 
gall-nuts  in  3  gallons  of  water,  strain 
the  decoction  through  a  linen  cloth  and 
filter  it,  and  add  1  pound  each  of  sul- 
phate of  iron  and  gum- Arabic  dissolved 
in  3  quarts  of  water 

The  mixture  is  stirred  from  time  to 
time  and  exposed  to  the  air  until  it  has 
assumed  a  bluish-black  color.  It  is 
then  allowed  to  settle,  when  the  clear 
ink  is  drawn  off  and  bottled.  This  ink 
is  sold  under  the  name  of  "Donbl" 
Ink;"  the  "Simple  Ink"  is  obtained 
by  adding  an  equal  volume  of  water. 

To  prevent  the  ink  from  moulding  an 
addition  of  creosote  or  carbolic  acid  is 
highly  recommended.  OR";  drop  of 
creosote  thoroughly  stirred  in  suffices 
for  1  quartof  ink.  A  slight  addition  of 


INKS.    LITHOGRAPHIC,  PRINTING,  AND  WRITING.         193 


salicylic  acid  will  prevent  the  formation 
of  mould  even  in  open  inkstands. 

The  sediment  remaining  in  the  stor- 
ing barrels  is  used  for  marking  boxes, 
barrels,  etc. 

As  ink  prepared  from  gall-nuts  and 
sulphate  of  iron  has  but  a  dull  color,  a 
small  quantity  of  sugar  or  sulphate  of 
copper  is  added  to  give  it  lustre,  though 
the  latter  attacks  steel  pens. 

It  frequently  happens  that  an  ink 
which  is  black  at  first  assumes,  in  the 
course  of  time,  a  yellowish  tint.  This 
is  prevented  by  adding  2  ounces  of 
caustic  aqua  ammonia  to  every  pound 
of  sulphate  of  iron  used. 

Other  substances  containing  tannin, 
as  sumach,  logwood,  the  bark  of  oak  or 
alder,  are  frequently  substituted  in  part 
or  entirely  for  gall-nuts ;  but  the  ink 
prepared  in  this  way  is  not  as  fine,  it 
flows  badly  from  the  pen  and  soon 
changes.  In  the  following  we  give  a 
few  of  these  modified  receipts  : 


V 

a 

*     1 

£    S 

"S   0   £ 

53  1 

1*1 

1     ^ 

"^    5 

^    s 

Parts. 

Parts. 

Parts. 

Gall  nuts    

100 

85 

100 

Logwood     

25 

30 

30 

Sulphate  of  iron  .     .     . 
Sulphate  of  copper  .     . 
Gum-  Arabic    .... 

30 

30 
30 

30 
10 
30 

30 
60 

10 

Water    

2000 

2000 

2000 

An  ordinary  writing-ink  can  be  pre- 
pared by  boiling  H  pounds  of  logwood 
with  sufficient  water  to  leave  a  residue 
of  2i  quarts.  When  cold,  add  H 
drachms  of  yellow  bichromate  of  pot- 
ash and  stir  thoroughly,  and  the  ink  is 
ready  for  use  without  the  addition  of 
gum.  This  ink  is  cheap  and  suitable 
for  steel  pens,  but  becomes  thick,  which  ' 
defect,  according  to  Steinte&Q  be  avoided 
by  adding  a  few  drops  of  solution  of 
mercury  salt.  It  flows  then  freely  from 
the  pen,  and  its  color,  first  of  a  dark 
indigo-blue  tint,  changes  soon  into 
black. 

The  majority  of  the  so-called  inde- 
gtructibleinkg  contain  a  certain  quantity 
of  finely-divided  carbon.     The  writing 
executed  with  these  inks  resists  ordinary  i 
13 


!  reagents ;  but  they  are  much  thicker 
than  ordinary  ink,  soon  form  a  thick 
sediment,  and  do  not  penetrate  the  fibre 
of  the  paper,  so  they  can  be  readily 
washed  off  or  effaced  by  scratching 

Traille  prepares  an  indestructible  ink 
by  dissolving  gluten  in  pyroligneous 
acid.  A  soap-like  fluid  is  obtained 
which  is  diluted  to  the  strength  of  or- 
dinary vinegar.  To  every  pint  of  this 
fluid  there  should  be  added  i  ounce 
of  lampblack  and  20  grains  of  indigo. 
This  ink  possesses  a  beautiful  color, 
flows  readily  from  the  pen,  and  dries 
quickly.  It  cannot  be  effaced  by  water 
or  scratching,  and  reagents  which  de- 
stroy ordinary  ink  have  no  effect  on  it 
whatever.  The  fibre  of  the  paper  must 
be  destroyed  before  the  ink  can  be  re- 
moved. 

P.  A.  Gaffard,  of  Paris,  prepares  an 
indestructible  ink  from  1  part  of  lamp- 
black, 12  of  potash  water-glass  of  the 
consistency  of  syrup,  1  of  aqua  am- 
monia, and  38  of  distilled  water. 

Stark,  who  has  devoted  a  great  deal 
of  time  and  labor  to  experimenting  with 
ink,  prefers  for  his  own  use  the  follow- 
ing composition:  f  pound  of  gall-nuts, 
i  pound  of  sulphindigotic  acid,  a  like 
quantity  of  sulphate  of  iron,  a  few  cloves, 
and  i  pound  of  gum- Arabic  to  every 
gallon  of  ink. 

Starts  Patent  Copying-ink  is  made 
as  fpllows  :  Dissolve  250  parts  of  extract 
of  logwood,  17  each  of  sulphate  of  iron 
and  sulphate  of  copper,  and  50  of  sugar 
in  1000  of  boiling  water;  strain  the  so- 
lution, and  add  a  solution  of  16  parts 
of  neutral  chromate  of  potash,  100  of 
glycerine,  and  finally  200  of  sulphin- 
digotic acid,  obtained  by  dissolving  2.5 
parts  of  indigo  in  50  of  fuming  sulphuric 
acid,  and  diluting  with  200  of  water. 

Bottger's  Copying-ink  is  prepared  by 
dissolving  1  ounce  of  extract  of  log- 
wood and  i  ounce  of  crystallized  car- 
bonate of  soda  in  1  pint  of  water  and 
adding  to  the  solution  1  ounce  of  glyc- 
erine of  1.25  specific  gravity,  15  grains 
of  yellow  chromate  of  potash  dissolved 
in  a  little  water,  and  i  ounce  of  pulver- 
ized gum- Arabic  converted  into  a  mucil- 
age with  a  little  water.  This  ink  does 
not  attack  the  pen,  does  not  mould,  and 
acquires  a  deep  black  color.  If  it  is  to 
be  used  as  a  writing-ink  use  1  ounce  of 
extract  of  logwood  dissolved  in  1  pint 


194 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


of  water,  but  leave  out  the  gum  and 
glycerine.  It  is  well  to  add  15  grains 
of  sulphate  of  copper  to  the  above 
quantities,  as  this  will  considerably  en- 
hance the  blackness  of  the  ink. 

Solid  Inks  (Ink  Powders  and  Ink 
Stones}.  Various  qualities  of  ink  in  the 
solid  state  are  prepared  as  a  con- 
venience for  travellers,  so  as  to  avoid 
the  necessity  of  carrying  bottles  and  the 
risk  of  breaking  them.  They  are  mostly 
composed  of  finely-pulverized  constit- 
uents of  gall-nut  ink,  over  which  cold 
water  is  poured,  but  such  ink  is  as  a 
general  rule  pale  and  poor.  The  best 
substance  for  preparing  a  good  ink 
powder  is  aniline  black,  which  can  be 
readily  dissolved  in  80  parts  of  water, 
and  furnishes  at  once  an  excellent  writ- 
ing-fluid. 

We  add  a  few  of  the  innumerable 
receipts  for  ink.  Many  of  them  have 
been  tried  and  found  to  be  excellent. 

Karmarsch's  Black  Ink.  •  Eighteen 
parts  of  pulverized  gall-nuts,  7  each  of 
gum- Arabic  and  sulphate  of  iron,  and 
150  of  water. 

Reid's  Black  Ink  consists  of  1  pound 
of  pulverized  gall-nuts,  i  pound  of  sul- 
phate of  iron,  and  3  quarts  of  water. 

Lipowitz's  Process  of  Preparing 
Black  Ink.  Pulverize  6i  pounds  of  the 
best  black  gall-nuts,  pour  as  much  wa- 
ter over  them  as  they  will  absorb,  and 
place  them  upon  a  perforated  bottom  in 
a  barrel  provided  with  several  layers 
of  cut  straw.  A  sufficient  quantity  of 
soft  water  is  now  gradually  poured  over 
the  moistened  gall-nuts  to  give  6  gal- 
lons of  a  clear  decoction  of  a  dark- 
brown  color.  A  cor  respond  ing  quantity 
of  dissolved  sulphate  of  iron  is  brought 
at  the  same  time  to  the  boiling  point  in 
a  suitable  earthen  vessel,  and  oxidized 
with  nitric  acid  during  the  boiling. 
The  oxidized  solution  of  iron  is  then 
precipitated  with  crystallized  carbonate 
of  soda  dissolved  in  the  necessary  quan- 
tity of  water.  The  precipitate  is  placed 
in  a  linen  bag,  washed  out,  and  pressed 
with  a  gradually  increasing  pressure 
until  it  is  of  such  a  consistency  that  the 
cake,  after  the  press-cloth  has  been  re- 
moved, will  cling  together  and  not 
moisten  blotting-paper.  Three  pounds 
of  this  pressed  ferric  oxide  is  then 
stirred  together  with  4£  pounds  of  good 
crude  wood  spirit,  and  added,  with  con- 


stant stirring,  to  the  6  gallons  of  decoc- 
tion of  gall-nuts.  The  mixture  is 
allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  days,  being 
frequently  stirred,  and  then  2J  pounds 
of  gum  Senegal  is  added,  and  the  mixt- 
ure stirred  until  the  gum  is  dissolved. 

Brand's  Black  Ink  consists  of  20 
parts  of  pulverized  Aleppo  gall-nuts, 
250  parts  of  water,  10  parts  of  crystal- 
lized sulphate  of  iron,  and  12£  parts  of 
gum-Arabic. 

Booth's  Excellent  Black  Ink.  Take 
6  parts  of  Aleppo  gall-nuts,  2  parts  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  1 J  parts  of  gum,  and  90 
parts  of  water.  Pulverize  the  gall-nuts 
and  boil  them  3  times,  and  after  each 
boiling  add  sufficient  water  to  replace 
the  loss  by  evaporation.  Then  strain 
the  decoction  and  add  to  it  the  sulphate 
of  iron  and  gum  previously  dissolved  in 
the  required  quantity  of  water.  The 
mixture  is  allowed  to  stand  quietly  for 
a  few  weeks,  the  supernatant  liquid  is 
then  poured  off,  and  a  few  drops  of 
creosote  added  to  prevent  moulding. 

Van  Moos'  Good  Black  Ink.  I.  To  150 
parts  gall-nuts  converted  into  a  coarse 
powder  add  85  parts  of  sulphate  of  iron. 
Pour  4000  parts  of  cold  water  over  the 
two  ingredients  and  let  them  digest  for 
24  to  48  hours ;  then  strain  through  a 
cloth  and  dissolve  in  the  filtrate  48 
parts  of  gum-Arabic. 

II.  Take  150  parts  of  coarsely-pow- 
dered gall-nuts,  50  parts  of  sulphate  of 
iron,   and    16£   parts  of  gum-Arabic. 
Pour  650  parts  of  rain  water  over  these 
ingredients,  let  them  stand  for  24  hours 
in  a  place  not  too  warm,  stir  frequently, 
and  finally  filter  through  a  cloth. 

III.  Boil  for  i  hour  100  parts  of  gall- 
nuts  converted  into  a  coarse  powder 
and  30  parts  of  sulphate  of  iron  in  4000 
parts  of  ordinary  wine  or  fruit  vinegar, 
and  when  cold  filter  ofi'  the  fluid. 

Geissler's  Black  Ink.  Convert  into 
a  coarse  powder  1  pound  of  gall-nuts, 
I  pound  of  sulphate  of  iron,  and  3£ 
ounces  of  gum-Arabic.  Pour  over  these 
ingredients  1  quart  of  vinegar  and  If 
gallons  of  water.  Let  the  mixture 
stand  for  8  to  14  days,  stirring  it  fre- 
quently, and  then  pour  off  the  ink. 

Jahn's  Black  Ink.  Boil  dowu  to  % 
its  volume  25  parts  of  ground  logwood, 
and  150  purts  of  bablah  with  1500 
parts  of  water.  Strain  the  decoction 
through  linen  and  then  add  12£  parts 


INKS.    LITHOGRAPHIC,  PRINTING,  AND  WRITING.        105 

each   of   pulverized    gum-Arabic  and  decoctions  together  and  reduce  them  by 

pulverized  sugar,  and  37£  parts  of  finely-  evaporation   to   1000  parts  by  weight, 

pulverized  sulphate  of  iron.     Moulding  Dissolve  in  this  liquid  1  part  of  neutral 

is  prevented  by  adding  a  very  small  yellow  chromate  of  potash,  let  it  clear 

,.,  rt  1.i»./»  11-1  /"IK  .       1  •  11 iT  1        _  •        1-. 


quantity  of  a  solution  of  chloride  of 


mercury  in  water. 
Lewis'  Black  Ink 


consists  of  1  ounce 
each  of  pulverized  sulphate  of  iron  and 
logwood,  3i-  ounces  of  pulverized  gall- 
nuts,  1  ounce  of  gum-Arabic,  and  1 
quart  of  white  wine  or  acetic  acid. 

Ure's  Black  Ink.  I.  Place  600  parts  of 
bruised  gall-nuts  in  a  cylindrical  cop- 
per vessel  and  boil  them  for  3  hours  in 
4500  parts  of  water,  replacing  always  the 
water  lost  by  evaporation.  Then  pour 
the  decoction  into  a  vat,  and  after  a 
short  time  strain  it  through  a  linen 
cloth.  Now  dissolve  250  parts  of  gum 
Senegal  in  a  small  quantity  of  water, 
and  add  the  mucilage  thus  formed,  after 
it  has  been  filtered,  to  the  clear  decoc- 
tion. Finally,  dissolve  250  parts  of  sul- 
phate of  iron,  add  this  to  the  ink,  and 
expose  the  latter  to  the  air.  As  soon  as 
it  has  assumed  a  medium  black  color 
bottle  and  cork  it  tightly. 

II.  This  ink  consists  of  100  parts  of 
pulverized  gall-nuts,  250  parts  of  sul- 
phate of  iron,  200  parts  of  gum- Arabic, 
6000  parts  of  water,  and  a  few  drops 
of  creosote. 

The  following  receipts  for  the  prepa- 
ration of  black  inks  are  especially 
recommended : 

I.  Crush  600  parts  of  small  gall-nuts 
into  a  coarse  powder  and  boil  in  a  copper 
boiler  with  4500  parts  of  water  for  3 
hours,  the  loss  by  evaporation  being  re- 
placed bv  fresh  water.     The  decoction 
is  placed*  in  a  vat  and  drawn  off  when 
clear,     and     the     sediment     strained 
through  a  cloth.     Dissolve  250  parts  of 
gum  Senegal  in  1500  parts  of  hot  water 
and  add  it  to  the  decoction  of  gall-nuts, 
and  dissolve  250  parts  of  sulphate  of 
iron  in  1500  parts  of  hot  water  and  add 
this  to  the  same  decoction.     The  ink 
obtained  in  this  way  is  exposed  to  the 
air  until  dark  enough  to  be  used. 

II.  Digest  for  8  days  16  parts  of 
bruised  Aleppo  gall-nuts,  16  of  sulphate 
of   iron,    5   of  gum  Senegal,  and  1  of 
alum  in  216  of  vinegar ;  then  add  to  the 
whole  36  parts  more  of  vinegar  and  200 
of  water. 

III.  Boil   repeatedly    160  parts  of 
logwood  with  water.     Pour  the  different 


by  standing,  and  draw  the  clear  ink 
into  bottles,  which  should  be  hermeti- 
cally closed.  This  is  a  cheap  and  good 
ink,  which  flows  freely  from  the  pen. 
but  spoils  quickly  if  allowed  to  stand 
in  open  vessels. 

Schmidt's  Ink  for  Steel  Pens.  I  One 
ounce  of  calcined  sulphate  of  iron,  l£ 
ounces  of  gall-nuts,  and  £  ounce  of  vege- 
table gum  are  digested  in  1  pint  of  dis- 
tilled water. 

II.  Boil  down  2  pounds  of  pulverized 
gall-nuts  with  3  quarts  of  water  to  $ 
its  bulk,  and  compound  this  with  7 
ounces  of  sulphate  of  iron  previously 
dissolved  in  hot  water.  The  whole  is 
then  boiled  for  a  few  minutes  and  fil- 
tered through  linen.  A  part  of  the  de- 
coction is  poured  over  i  ounce  of  Chi- 
nese ink,  rubbed  very  fine,  and  to  this 
is  added  i  ounce  of  solution  of  pro- 
tochloride  of  manganese  of  60°  Beauine". 
The  Chinese  ink,  which  will  swell  up 
in  about  24  hours,  is  then  rubbed  very 
fine  upon  a  stone,  the  clear  fluid  of 
the  decoction  of  gall-nuts  is  poured  off 
from  the  sediment  and  mixed  with  the 
Chinese  ink.  A  few  drops  of  oil  of 
cloves  dissolved  in  acetic  acid  are  then 
added,  the  mixture  thoroughly  shaken 
in  a  closed  bottle,  and  is  then  allowed 
to  stand  for  a  few  days,  and  the  ink  is 
finally  poured  off  from  the  sediment 
into  another  bottle. 

Run  ye' sink  for  Steel  Pens  consists  of 
500  parts  of  decoction  of  logwood  and  i 
part  of  yellow  chromate  of  potash. 

The  decoction  of  logwood  is  prepared 
by  boiling  67^  parts  of  logwood  with 
the  quantity  of  water  named  above. 

The  liquid  is  filtered  and  then  com- 
pounded, with  constant  stirring,  with  $ 
part  of  yel  low  chromate  of  potash.  The 
ink  is  then  ready;  it  is  of  a  bluish- 
black  color,  and  gives  no  sediment.  To 
prevent  the  ink  from  becoming  too 
thick  add  a  few  drops  of  solution  ol 
chloride  of  mercury. 

Haenle's  Ink,  which  does  not  Corrode 
Steel  Pens.  Boil  250  parts  of  pulverized 
gall-nuts,  125  parts  of  gum,  and  a  like 
quantity  of  sulphuric  acid  in  4000  parts 
of  distilled  or  rain  water,  and  add  a  few 
grains  of  chloride  of  mercury. 


196 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


English  Inks.  The  following  is  a 
receipt  recommended  by  Penny,  of  An- 
derson University  :  Macerate  12  ounces 
of  bruised  gall-nuts  in  1  gallon  of  cold 
water  for  one  week,  add  6  ounces  of 
dissolved  sulphate  of  iron,  6  ounces  of 
gum  mucilage,  and  5  or  6  drops  of 
creosote.  In  this  receipt  Penny  makes 
use  of  the  fact  well  known  to  chemists 
that  tannin  is  more  soluble  in  cold  than 
in  warm  water,  and  for  this  reason  rec- 
ommends cold  maceration,  which,  in 
fact,  is  used  in  the  principal  ink  fac- 
tories. 

Duncan,  Clockhart  &  Co.'s,  of  Edin- 
biirgh,  Celebrated  Bluish-black  Ink  is 
prepared  by  cold  maceration  according 
to  the  following  receipt:  4|  ounces 
bruised  Aleppo  gall-nuts,  not  gnawed 
by  insects,  1  drachm  of  pulverized 
cloves,  40  ounces  of  cold  water,  H 
ounces  of  purified  sulphate  of  iron,  35 
grains  of  purified  sulphuric  acid,  and  | 
ounce  of  sulphindigotic  acid  in  the 
form  of  a  thin  paste,  and  either  entirely 
neutral,  or  nearly  so. 

The  gall-nuts  are  placed  together 
with  the  cloves  into  a  flask  capable  of 
holding  about  4  gallons,  water  is  poured 
over  them  and  they  are  allowed  to  di- 
gest, being  frequently  shaken.  The 
fluid  is  then  filtered  into  another  flask 
of  the  same  size.  The  iron  is  now 
added,  and,  when  entirely  dissolved,  the 
acid  is  poured  into  the  mixture  and  the 
whole  quickly  shaken ;  finally,  the  in- 
digo is  added  and  mixed  with  the  com- 
pound by  shaking,  and  the  whole  fil- 
tered. 

For  Copying  Ink  5}  ounces  of  gall- 
nuts  are  used. 

This  ink  has  several  peculiarities:  1. 
The  use  of  the  cold  process.  2.  Entire 
absence  of  gum.  3.  The  use  of  sulphin- 
digotic acid.  4.  The  small  quantity  of 
iron,  which  may  be  explained  by  the 
fact  that  pure  protpsulphate  contain- 
ing no  sesquioxide  is  used,  so  that  all 
the  iron  can  combine  with  the  tannin. 
5.  The  use  of  free  sulphuric  acid,  which 
has  generally  been  considered  as  in- 
jurious to  inks. 

Ink  for  Steel  Pens.  The  ink  obtained 
by  the  following  process  becomes  black 
at  once,  does  not  corrode  the  pen,  and, 
when  thick,  can  be  diluted  with  water : 
Convert  into  a  coarse  powder  £  ounce 
pf  gall-nuts;  add  i  ounce  of  gum-Arabic, 


i  and  |  pint  of  rain  water.  Let  the  whole 
I  stand  in  a  flask  for  24  hours,  shaking 
1  it  several  times.  Then  add  7  grains  of 
ferric  oxide  prepared  in  the  following 
manner :  Place  4  ounces  of  sulphate  of 
iron  in  an  earthen-ware  pot,  and  heat  it 
over  a  strong  fire  until  it  forms  a  red 
mass,  when  it  is  allowed  to  cool  and 
stored  away  for  future  use.  To  prevent 
moulding  of  the  ink,  add  a  few  drops 
of  creosote  or  a  few  grains  of  corrosive 
sublimate. 

Vanadium  Ink.  Berzelius>  receipt 
for  this  ink  calls  for  350  parts  of  a  de- 
coction obtained  from  250  parts  of  gall- 
nuts,  to  which  are  added  1  part  of  am- 
monium meta-vanadate  and  25  of  gum 
Senegal. 

A  good  black  ink  flowing  readily 
from  the  pen  is  also  obtained  in  a  short 
time  by  rubbing  together  1  part  of  pyro- 
gallic  acid  with  3  of  finely-pulverized 
and  sifted  gum- Arabic,  and  3  of  neutral 
ammonium  meta-vanadate. 

A  li.zarine  Ink.  Sulphate  of  iron  per- 
fectly free  of  oxide  is  the  first  requisite 
in  preparing  this  ink.  A  decoction  of 
gall-nuts  5  to  6  per  cent,  strong  is  first 
prepared,  and  then  a  solution  of  indigo 
in  fuming  sulphuric  acid.  To  the  lat- 
ter, carefully  diluted  with  water,  are 
added  iron  filings.  The  acid  remain- 
ing free  after  the  formation  of  sulphate 
of  iron  is  dulled  by  means  of  chalk  or 
marble,  so  that  only  a  small  quantity 
of  free  acid  remains  in  the  fluid.  The 
clear  solution  of  indigo  and  sulphate  of 
iron  is  poured  from  the  gypsum  which 
has  been  formed  and  added  to  the  de- 
coction of  gall-nuts.  Gum-Arabic  is 
used  to  render  the  liquid  viscous. 

Eisner's  Alizarine  Ink.  Extract  U 
pounds  of  bruised  gall-nuts  with  3 
quarts  of  water.  On  the  other  hand 
pour  8  ounces  of  sulphuric  acid  over  4 
ounces  of  powdered  indigo,  and  let  it 
stand  for  24  hours.  Then  dilute  the 
blue  fluid  with  3  quarts  of  water,  and 
add  to  it  7|  ounces  of  iron  filings  free 
from  rust  and  5  ounces  of  pulverized 
chalk.  After  the  fluid  has  stood  for 
some  time  it  is  filtered  and  the  filtrate 
added  to  the  decoction  of  gall-nuts,  also 
previously  filtered.  The  writing  exe- 
cuted with  this  ink  is  first  greenish, 
but  soon  assumes  a  blue-black  color. 

Dubell's  Alizarine  Ink  has  a  pleasant 
green  color,  flows  freely  from  the  pen, 


INKS.    LITHOGRAPHIC,  PRINTING,  AND  WRITING.          197 


and  becomes  black  in  a  short  time.  •  It  [ 
is  prepared  as  follows :  Convert  into  a  j 
coarse  powder  |  ounce  of  Turkish  gall-  j 
nuts,  pour  U  pints  of  tepid  water  over 
them,  and  allow  them  to  digest  for  24  ! 
hours  at  a  moderate  heat.     Then  strain  | 
the  fluid   and   add  2  ounces  of  wood 
spirit,  next  1'  drachms  of  gum-Arabic, 
and  2  ounces  of  neutralized  solution  of 
sulphiudigotic    acid,    and    shake    the 
mixture  thoroughly. 

Winternitz's  Alizarine  Ink.  One 
hundred  parts  by  weight  of  pulverized 
nut-galls  are  digested  in  1200  parts  of 
crude  wood  spirit,  allowed  to  stand  for 
a  few  days  in  a  moderately  warm  place, 
filtered,  *and  the  residue  in  the  filter 
washed  with  crude  wood  spirit  until  j 
the  filtrate  amounts  again  to  1200  parts,  i 
In  this  clear  brown  extract  dissolve  12 
parts  of  sulphate  of  iron  and  30  of  gum- 
Arabic ;  let  the  mixture  again  stand  for 
a  few  days,  stirring  it  frequently,  and  I 
finally  add  sufficient  solution  of  indigo  | 
so  that  the  whole  makes  1500  parts  by 
weight.  The  solution  of  indigo  used  is 
prepared  by  dissolving  1  part  of  indigo 
in  4  of  fuming  sulphuric  acid,  diluting 
the  fluid  with  water,  precipitating  it 
with  carbonate  of  potash,  collecting  the 
blue  precipitate  upon  a  filter,  and  wash- 
ing with  water. 

Another  Receipt.     Five  hundred  and 
twenty-five   parts  of  the   best  bruised 
gall-nuts    are     digested    for    2    days 
in    7000    parts    of   water.     Then   add 
700  parts  of  solution   of  indigo   and 
dissolve  in  the  liquid  190  parts  of  sul- 
phate of  iron,  175  of  sugar,  and  a  like  i 
quantity  of  gum  Senegal,  and  finally  20  j 
drops  of  creosote  dissolved  in  14  parts 
of  alcohol. 

Receipt  with  Oxalic  Acid.  Three 
hundred  and  fifty  parts  of  the  best  gall- 
nuts  are  bruised  and  digested  for  2  days 
in  3500  parts  of  water,  and  the  fluid 
strained.  In  this  dissolve  115  parts  of 
sulphate  of  iron  and  25  of  crystallized 
oxalic  acid  ;  then  add  225  parts  of  solu- 
tion of  indigo,  and  finally  dissolve  100 
parts  of  sugar,  a  like  quantity  of  gum 
v  Senegal,  and  10  drops  of  creosote  in  the 
fluid. 

COPYING  INKS.  Beau's  French 
Copying  Ink  consists  of  1650  parts  by 
weight  of  beer,  95  of  gall-nuts,  30  of 
gum- Arabic,  40  of  calcined  sulphate  of 
iron,  20  of  tormentil  root  (Potentilla 


tormentilla),  10  of  lampblack,  10  of 
rock  candy,  60  of  white  sugar,  and  5  of 
honey. 

Black  Copying  Inks.  I.  Boil  33  parts 
each  of  coarsely-powdered  gall-nuts, 
extract  of  logwood,  and  bruised  tor- 
mentil root  in  500  parts  of  vinegar  and 
a  like  quantity  of  water,  and  strain  the 
fluid.  Next  dissolve  180  parts  of  sul- 
phate of  iron  and  33  parts  of  alum  in 
250  parts  of  water;  add  this  solution  to 
the  above  fluid,  and  dissolve  in  it  by 
boiling  1  drachm  of  indigo-carmine, 

1  ounce  of  gum-Arabic,  and  2£  ounces 
of  white  sugar. 

II.  Boil  1  ounce  of  extract  of  log- 
wood with  1  quart  each  of  vinegar  and 
water,  £  ounce  of  sulphate  of  iron,  £ 
ounce  of  alum,  a  like  quantity  of  gum- 
Arabic,  and  1  ounce  of  sugar. 

III.  Boil  for  2   hours  4J  ounces  of 
rasped  logwood  in  3  gallons  of  water, 
replenishing    from    time   to  time    the 
evaporated  water.    To  the  liquid,  while 
still  warm,  add  1  pound  of  best  gall- 
nuts  converted  to  a  coarse  powder,  4| 
ounces  of  sulphate  of  iron,  \  ounce  of 
sulphate  of  copper,  and  3i  ounces  each 
of  white  sugar  and  gum-Arabic.     It  is 
best  to  place  the  mixture  in  an  earthen- 
ware pot  of  a  capacity  of  7  gallons,  and 
allow  it  to  stand  in  this  for  14  days, 
stirring  it  at  least  twice  a  day  ;  the  ink 
is    finally  filtered   through    a    coarse 
woollen  cloth. 

Excellent  Black  Copying  Ink.  Boil 
9  ounces  of  coarsely-powdered  gall-nuts 
and  4|  ounces  of  ground  logwood  with 
If  gallons  of  water  until  f  gallon  of 
fluid  remain,  and  filter  through  a 
cloth.  Then  dissolve  4J  ounces  of 
ordinary  sulphate  of  iron,  3  ounces  of 
sulphate  of  copper,  3£  ounces  of  gum- 
Arabic,  and  1  ounce  of  rock  candy  in 
13  quarts  of  water  ;  add  this  solution  to 
the  above  decoction,  stir  it  thoroughly, 
let  it  stand  for  24  hours,  and  filter  the 
ink  from  the  sediment  through  a  felt 
bag. 

Excellent  Black  Copying  Ink.  Con- 
vert into  a  coarse  powder  8  parts  of 
Turkish  gall-nuts,  4  of  sulphate  of  iron, 

2  of  gum-Arabic,  1  of  alum,  and  1  of 
indigo.     Place    the    ingredients    in    a 
flask,   pour   12  parts  of  vinegar  over 
them,  and  let  them  digest  in  a  moder- 
ately warm  place  for  24  hours.     Then 
add  60  parts  of  beer,  let  it  again  stand 


198 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


in  a  warm  place  for  a  few  days,  when 
the  ink  is  ready  for  use. 

Another  Receipt.  By  dissolving  1 
part  of  rock  candy  in  3  of  ordinary  good 
ink,  a  fluid  is  obtained  which  permits 
the  transfer  of  writing  to  another 
paper. 

Alkaline  Copying  Ink  which  pre- 
serves the  steel  pen  from  oxidation  is 
produced  from  5  parts  of  decoction  of 
logwood,  of  8°  Beaume,  3  of  sugar,  2  of 
gum  Senegal,  and  5  of  glycerine.  The 
fluid  is  colored  violet  by  adding  a  solu- 
tion of  20  parts  of  potash  and  3  of 
flowers  of  sulphur  in  100  of  water.  The 
substances  are  mixed  in  an  iron  boiler, 
10  parts  of  leather  waste  added,  and, 
with  constant  stirring,  boiled  down  to 
dryness.  Two  hundred  parts  of  water 
are  then  poured  over  the  residue,  the 
fluid  is  pressed  out,  and  then  filtered. 

ANILINE  INKS  are  true  solutions; 
the  coloring  matter  does  not  precipitate ; 
they  are  very  fluid,  flow  readily  from 
the  pen,  and  dry  quickly.  They  must 
not  be  made  too  concentrated.  If  the 
writing,  when  dry,  has  a  metallic  lustre 
the  ink.  should  be  diluted.  The  inks 
do  not  mould,  and,  when  thick,  can  be 
restored  by  adding  water.  They  do 
not  require  an  addition  of  gum,  but  if 
desired,  1  part  of  dextrine  may  be  added 
to  100  parts  of  ink ;  gum- Arabic  should 
not  be  used.  Some  of  the  inks,  espe- 
cially the  violet  parlor  ink,  are  very 
easily  affected  by  other  inks,  so  that  a 
pen  used  for  the  latter  must  not  be 
dipped  into  the  former. 

Blue  Aniline  Ink.  Dissolve  1  part 
ofbleudenuit  (bleu  de  Paris)  soluble 
in  water  in  200  to  250  of  hot  water. 

Black  Aniline  Ink.  Dissolve  1  part 
of  aniline  black  soluble  in  water  in  80 
of  water. 

Green  Aniline  Ink  is  very  beautiful, 
but  costly.  Dissolve  1  part  of  iodgreen 
in  100  to  110  of  hot  water.  Writing 
executed  with  this  ink  has  a  brilliant 
bluish-green  color;  fora  more  yellow- 
ish-green tint  add  some  picric  acid. 

Red  Aniline  Ink.  Dissolve  1  part  of 
fuchsine  soluble  in  water  in  150  to  200 
of  hot  water. 

Violet  Aniline  Ink  (Parlor  Ink). 
Dissolve  I  part  of  aniline  violet  soluble 
in  water  in  200  of  water. 

Inflow  Aniline  Ink  cannot  be  recom- 
mended. It  is  prepared  by  dissolving 


1  part  of  picric  acid  in  120  to  140  of 
water. 

INDESTRUCTIBLE  OR  PERMANENT 
INKS.  Bosse's  indestructible  ink  is  pre- 
pared by  boiling  33  parts  of  logwood 
with  400  of  water  for  i  hour,  then  adding 
16.5  parts  of  alum,  filtering  the  fluid 
down  to  266.5  parts,  and  adding  a  mixt- 
ure of  33  parts  of  very  fine  elutriated 
pyrolusite  and  16.5  of  pulverized  gum- 
Arabic. 

Kindt's  Indestructible  Ink  for  Docu- 
ments, etc.  Mix  1  part  of  honey,  14 
of  water,  2  of  sulphuric  acid,  and 
enough  indigo,  dissolved  in  fuming  sul- 
phuric acid,  that  the  fluid  seems  to  be 
sufficiently  colored  to  furnish  legible 
writing  on  paper.  The  writing  executed 
with  this  ink,  which,  of  course,  must 
not  be  done  with  a  steel  pen,  becomes 
perfectly  black  by  heating  the  paper. 
To  prevent  the  writing  from  being  de- 
stroyed by  free  acids,  it  is,  after  the  paper 
has  been  heated,  moistened  with  spirit 
of  sal-ammoniac,  or  the  document  is 
placed  in  a  box  and  there  subjected  to 
vapors  of  carbonate  of  ammonia.  It  is 
claimed  that  this  ink  answers  all  de- 
mands. 

Bossin's  Indestructible  Ink.  Mix  £ 
ounce  of  pulverized  verdigris,  1  ounce 
of  sal-ammoniac,  i  ounce  of  lampblack 
with  5|  ounces  of  water.  Keep  the 
mixture  in  a  well-closed  flask,  and 
shake  thoroughly  before  using  it. 

Braconnot's  In  destructible  Ink.  Ten 
parts  of  good  potash  dissolved  in  boiling 
water,  4  parts  of  comminuted  leather- 
waste,  and  2  parts  of  flowers  of  sulphur 
are  boiled  to  dryness  in  a  cast-iron 
vessel.  The  dry  substance  is  then 
heated,  with  constant  stirring,  until  it 
becomes  soft,  care  being  had  to  prevent 
it  from  igniting.  Sufficient  water  is 
gradually  and  carefully  added  until  the 
liquid  assumes  a  very  dark  color,  which 
is  strained  through  a  cloth  and  kept  in 
well-closed  bottles.  Writing  on  paper 
executed  with  this  ink  is  not  affected 
by  concentrated  caustic  lye  nor  by  con- 
centrated nitric  acid. 

Excellent  Blue  Ink,  of  a  beautiful  and 
deep,  pure  blue  color,  is  prepared  as  fol- 
lows. Dissolve  16i  parts  of  yellow 
prussiate  of  potash  in  500  parts  of  water. 
Filter  the  solution  and  mix  it  with  a 
filtered  solution  of  16>  parts  of  pure 
sulphate  of  iron  in  500  parts  of  distilled 


INKS.    LITHOGRAPHIC,  PRINTING,  AND  WRITING. 


199 


water,  and  then  add  1000  parts  of  dis- 
tilled water.  The  water  standing  over  the 
nearly  white  precipitate  is  then  care- 
fully removed  with  a  siphon,  and  the 
precipitate  filtered  to  remove  the  water, 
when  it  is  placed  hy  means  of  a  horn 
spatula  in  a  porcelain  dish,  which  is 

Sit  into  a  water-bath,  and  the  precipi- 
te  oxidised  by  stirring  into  it  a  mixt- 
ure of  8  parts  of  nitric  acid  of  1.225  spe- 
cific gravity,  and  6|  ounces  of  sulphuric 
acid,  care  being  had  to  avoid  inhaling 
the  vapors  evolved.  After  the  acids 
have  acted  upon  the  precipitate  for  24 
hours  it  assumes  a  dark-blue  color;  it, 
is  then  placed  in  a  wide-mouthed  flask 
and  thoroughly  washed  with  water  un- 
til a  sample  taken  from  the  flask  shows 
no  reaction  upon  sulphuric  acid ;  that 
means,  until  a  few  drops  of  a  solution  of 
chloride  of  barium  no  longer  give  a 
white  precipitate.  The  precipitate  is 
then  rinsed  from  the  flask  upon  a  paper 
filter  and  allowed  to  drain  off,  when 
the  filter  is  carefully  taken  from  the 
funnel  and  spread  out  upon  several 
sheets  of  filtering  paper  which  have 
been  placed  upon  porous  bricks.  The 
jelly-like  precipitate  is  then  rubbed  up 
in  a  mortar  with  3  parts  of  oxalic  acid, 
and  diluted  with  an  equal  volume  of 
water.  An  addition  of  gum  is  not  re- 
quired, but,  if  desired,  150  parts  of  best 
white  gum  may  be  added  to  the  ink. 

RED  INKS.  Carmine  Ink  consists 
of  6  parts  of  carmine,  15  of  spirit  of 
sal-ammoniac,  and  2  of  tartaric  acid. 
Dissolve  the  carmine  in  the  spirit  of 
sal-ammoniac  previously  diluted  with 
15  parts  of  water,  and  then  add  the  tar- 
taric acid.  Let  the  mixture  stand  for 
2  or  3  days,  then  pour  off  the  superna- 
tant red  fluid,  filter  the  sediment,  and 
drain  off  the  ink  adhering  to  it. 

Winckler's  Durable  Red  Ink.  Four 
parts  of  red  carmine  are  rubbed  very 
fine  with  50  parts  of  ordinary  liquid 
water-glass.  The  resulting  compound 
is  diluted  with  450  parts  of  rain  water 
and  allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  a  few 
days,  when  the  fluid  forming  the  red 
ink  is  poured  off. 

The  water-glass  in  which  the  carmine 
is  dissolved  is  at  the  same  time  au  ex- 
cellent means  of  detecting  an  adultera- 
tion of  carmine  with  cinnabar.  In  dilut- 
ing the  solution  of  carmine  with  water, 
the  cinnabar  is  at  once  precipitated. 


VIOLET  INKS.  Violet  Copying  Ink. 
Thirty-eight  parts  of  extract  of  log' 
wood,  550  of  water,  20  of  alum,  1J  of 
cream  of  tartar,  15  of  gum -Arabic,  and 
i  of  crystallized  verdigris.  Dissolve 
the  extract  of  logwood  in  the  boiling 
water.  Then  in  4  different  vessels  dis- 
solve the  aliim,  cream  of  tartar,  gum, 
and  verdigris  in  some  of  the  solution 
of  extract  of  logwood,  and  add  the  so- 
lutions to  the  liquor  of  logwood  in  the 
order  as  given.  The  ink  is  then  ready 
and  is  kept  from  moulding  by  an  ad- 
dition of  creosote. 

Violet  Writing  Ink.  Eight  parts  of 
logwood  and  64  of  water  are  boiled 
down  to  30  parts.  In  this  fluid  dissolve, 
with  constant  stirring,  2i  parts  of  alum 
and  H  of  gum  Senegal. 

Encre  Violette  de  Rouen  is  obtained 
by  boiling  750  parts  of  logwood,  32 
parts  of  alum,  a  like  quantity  of  gum- 
Arabic,  and  16  parts  of  sugar  in  6000 
parts  of  water  for  1  hour.  The  mix- 
ture is  allowed  to  stand  for  2  or  3  days 
and  is  then  strained  through  linen. 
This  ink,  it  is  claimed,  is  much  improved 
by  age. 

SOLID  INKS.  (CAKES  AND  POW- 
DERS.) Platzcr* 'sink Powder.  Pulver- 
ize and  mix  intimately  100  parts  of  ex- 
tract of  logwood  and  1  of  bichromate 
of  potash,  and  A  of  the  weight  of  the 
whole  of  indigo  blue. 

Ink  Powder  in  Capsules.  To  avoid 
soiling  the  fingers  and  spilling  some  of 
the  powder  in  taking  it  from  the  boxes 
in  which  it  formerly  was  brought  into 
the  market,  G.  J.  Collins,  of  Brooklyn, 
N.  Y.,  encloses  a  small  quantity  of  pow- 
der in  a  capsule  of  gelatine,  which, 
when  dissolved  in  water,  serves  also  to 
give  the  necessary  consistency  to  the 
ink.  The  basis  of  the  powders  is  gen- 
erally an  aniline  color.  For  Carmine 
40  parts  of  cosine,  3  of  lunar  caustic, 
and  7  of  gelatine.  For  Green  44  parts 
of  aniline  green,  4  of  gelatine,  and  2  of 
lunar  caustic.  For  Purple  40  parts  of 
aniline  violet,  4  of  gelatine,  and  2  of 
lunar  caustic.  The  substances  are  separ- 
ately converted  into  fine  powder,  mixed, 
and  the  mixture  placed  in  the  capsules. 
Each  capsule  contains  about  15  grains 
of  powder.  It  is  dissolved  in  a  corre- 
sponding quantity  of  pure  water,  re- 
quiring about  1  hour  for  solution. 

Ink  Cake.  Extract  42  parts  of  A  leppo 


200 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


gall-nuts  and  3  of  madder  with  suffi- 
cient water;  then  filter  the  fluid  and 
dissolve  in  it  5k  parts  of  sulphate  of 
iron,  and  compound  it  with  2  parts  of 
solution  of  methyl  acetate  of  iron  and 
1^  of  solution  of  indigo.  Evaporate 
this  mixture  to  dryness  at  a  moderate 
heat  and  form  into  cakes  of  desired 
size.  One  part  of  this  ink  dissolved  in 
6  of  hot  water  gives  an  excellent  writ- 
ing and  copying  ink,  while  a  beautiful 
ordinary  writing  ink  is  obtained  by  dis- 
solving 1  part  in  10  to  15  of  water. 

Marking  Ink,  especially  adapted  for 
laboratory  use,  as  it  resists  the  action  of 
all  acids  and  caustic  fluids,  and  which 
is  highly  recommended  for  marking 
articles  exposed  to  any  degree  of  moist- 
ure, is  prepared  as  follows  :  Dissolve, 
with  the  assistance  of  heat,  20  parts  of 
brown  shellac  in  a  solution  of  30  parts 
of  borax  in  300  to  400  parts  of  water, 
and  filter  the  solution  while  hot.  Then 
add  to  the  filtrate  a  solution  of  7i  to  10 
parts  of  aniline  black  (nigrosine)  solu- 
ble in  water,  &  part  of  tannin,  ik  part 
of  picric  acid,  15  parts  of  spirit  of  sal- 
ammoniac,  and  i  ounce  of  water.  More 
aniline  black  may  be  used,  but  the 
quantity  given  suffices  for  the  produc- 
tion of  a  beautiful  black  ink,  flowing 
freely  from  the  pen. 

Ink  for  Writing  on  Glass.  By  rub- 
bing up  equal  parts  of  lampblack  and 
iron  scales  (hammer  scale)  with  strong 
gum  mucilage,  an  ink  is  obtained  which 
can  be  used  for  writing  on  glass. 

Indestructible  Ink  for  Writing  on 
Glass.  An  ink  has  recently  been 
brought  into  the  market  in  the  United 
States  with  which  writing  can  be 
etched  on  bottles,  etc.  With  the  ex- 
ception that  it  corrodes  the  pen,  it  an- 
swers the  purpose  very  well.  The  ink, 
according  to  an  analysis  by  Prof.  Maisch, 
consists  of  ammonium  fluoride,  heavy 
spar,  and  sulphuric  acid.  The  sul- 
phate of  baryta  seems  to  act  as  an  ab- 
sorbent and  to  prevent  the  running  of 
the  ink. 

Red  and  Black  Ink,  not  acted  upon 
by  Acids,  for  Marking*  Glass  and  Metal 
Labels.  Dissolve  with  the  aid  of  heat 
15  parts  of  finely-sifted  copal  in  120 
parts  of  oil  of  lavender;  then  rub  up 
with  this  solution  2  parts  of  thoroughly 
calcined  lampblack  and  keep  the  mixt- 
ure in  a  well-closed  bottle.  Before 


using  the  ink  shake  it  thoroughly  and, 
if  too  thick,  reduce  it  with  some  oil  of 
lavender  or  rectified  oil  of  turpentine. 

For  Red  Ink  use  cinnabar  instead  of 
lampblack  and  prepare  the  ink  accord- 
ing to  the  following  proportions:  One 
part  of  copal,  8  of  oil  of  lavender,  and 
3i  of  cinnabar. 

Stamping  Ink,  which  does  not  dry 
quickly  upon  the  cushion,  but  is  never- 
theless rapidly  absorbed  by  the  paper 
without  blurring,  is  prepared  according 
to  the  following  receipt :  Sixteen  parts 
of  fast  aniline  colors  (blue,  red,  etc.), 
80  of  boiling  distilled  water,  7  of  glyc- 
erine, and  3  of  syrup.  The  anihne 
color  is  dissolved  in  hot  water  and  the 
other  ingredients  then  added,  with  con- 
stant stirring. 

Sympathetic  Ink.  Boil  some  gall- 
nuts  in  aqua-fortis,  and  add  to  the  in- 
fusion some  gum-Arabic  and  a  little 
sulphuric  acid.  However  plain  the 
writing  executed  with  this  ink  may  be 
at  first,  it  will  entirely  disappear  from 
the  paper  in  a  few  days. 

Incombustible  Ink  and  Paper.  This 
ink,  which  can  be  used  either  in  writing 
or  painting,  is  an  English  invention,  and 
is  made  according  to  the  following  re- 
ceipt :  Twenty -two  drachms  of  finely- 
ground  graphite,  12  grains  of  copal  or 
other  resinous  gum,  2  drachms  of  sul- 
phate of  iron,  a  like  quantity  of  tinct- 
ure of  gall-nuts,  and  8  drachms  of  sul- 
phate of  indigo  are  thoroughly  mixed 
and  boiled  in  water.  The  graphite  can 
be  replaced  by  an  earthy  mineral  pig- 
ment of  any  desired  color. 

The  pulp  for  the  paper  is  composed 
of  1  part  of  vegetable  fibre,.2  of  asbes- 
tos, 4s  of  borax,  and  T&  of  alum. 

Indestructible  Ink  for  Stamping  Cot- 
ton aiid  Woollen  Goods  which  are  to  be 
Bleached  with  Chlorine.  I.  Dilute  1 
part  of  coal-tar  with  1  of  benzine,  and 
stir  into  it  yV  part  of  lampblack.  Mix 
into  a  homogeneous  paste  which  is 
used  for  stamping.  By  adding  more  or 
less  benzine  it  can  be  given  any  consis- 
tency desired. 

Changing  Writing  executed  with  Pale 
Ink  immediately  into  Black.  Rub  fine 
4  parts  of  dry  sulphate  of  iron  and  then 
mix  it  with  8. parts  of  fine  white  sand. 
Strew  the  mixture  on  the  ink  while 
still  wet,  and  allow  it  to  remain  for 
some  time. 


INKS.    LITHOGEAPHIC,  PRINTING,   AND   WRITING.         201 


Colored  Sand.  Sift  fine  white  sand 
from  the  coarser  panicles  and  color  it. 

I.  Blue.     Boil  106  parts  of  sand  and 
4  of  Berlin  blue  with  a  small  quantity 
of  water,  stirring  constantly,  and   dry 
as  soon   as    the    sand    is    thoroughly 
colored. 

II.  Rose-colored  Sand  is  obtained  by 
mixing  100  parts  of  white  sand  with  4 
of  vermilion. 

III.  Dark  Brown,  Sand.     Boil  white 
sand  in  a  decoction  of  Brazil  wood  and 
dry  it  over  a  fire. 

IV.  Black    Sand.    Heat   very  fine 
quartz  sand,  previously  freed  from  dust 
by  sifting,  and  add  to  every  i  pound  of 
it  6  to  8  spoonfuls  of  fat.     Continue  the 
heating  as  long  as  smoke  or  a  flame  is 
observed    on    stirring.      The    sand    is 
finally  washed    in  water   and    dried. 
This  black  sand  will  not  nib  off. 

Brush  for  Marking  Boxes,  etc.  (Fig. 
29  >.  M  is  a  sheet-brass  reservoir  closed 
on  the  top  by  the  cover  N.  This  reser- 
voir forms  the  handle  of  the  brush ;  the 
lower  part  is  open  and  provided  with 
the  box  O,  enclosing  the  hollow  screw 
P,  and  at  the  same  time  strengthening 
M.  Through  P  runs  a  channel  p,  the 
upper  part  of  which  is  protected  by  the 
cross-piece  n,  this  being  provided  with 
a  projection  o  by  which  the  flow  of  the 
color  is  regulated.  On  P  is  fastened  a 
tube  Q,  and  a  bunch  of  bristles  forming 
the  brush  is  fastened  outside  around  a 
small  tube  at  the  end.  By  pressing 
down,  the  bristles  are  compressed  and 
the  color  flows  out. 

Chemical  Test  of  Written  Documents. 
Wm.  Thompson,  in  a  discourse  before 
the  Manchester  Literary  and  Philo- 
sophical Society,  recommends  the  fol- 
lowing reagents :  1.  Dilute  sulphuric 
acid.  2.  Strong  hydrochloric  acid.  3. 
Ordinary  dilute  nitric  acid.  4.  Sul- 
phurous acid  in  solution.  5.  Solution 
of  caustic  soda.  6.  Solution  of  oxalic 
acid  saturated  with  lime.  7.  Solution 
of  calcium  chloride.  8.  Solution  of 
stannous  chloride.  9.  Solution  of  stan- 
nic chloride.  The  process  is  as  follows : 
Moisten  different  written  characters, 
successively,  with  each  of  the  mentioned 
reagents,  allow  them  to  act  a  few 
seconds,  and  then  carefully  remove  the 
excess  of  fluid  with  blotting-paper.  Ae- 
cording  to  Mr.  Thompson's  statement, 
the  phenomena  appearing  in  the  dif- 


ferent inks  show  such  marked   anom- 
alies that  it  is  even  possible  to  dis- 


Fig.  29. 

tingnish  characters  written  with  ink 
prepared  in  the  same  manufactory  at 
different  times,  while  characters  exe- 
cuted with  the  same  ink  show  such  a 
corresponding  action  that  no  difference 
can  be  observed  even  if  the  ink,  in  case 
of  drying  in,  had  been  diluted  with 
water,  beer,  tea,  coffee,  or  whatever 
may  have  been  handy  to  the  writer. 

Printers'  Rollers  are  made  of  molasses 
and  glue.  Break  £  part  of  glue  in 
pieces  and  cover  with  rain  water  and 
allow  it  to  stand  until  all  the  water  is 
absorbed,  and  then  dissolve  the  glue  in 
a  water-bath.  When  froth  begins  to 


202 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


rise,  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  li 
parts  of  heated  molasses.  Mix  the  com- 
pound well  by  stirring  on  the  water- 
bath  over  the  fire  without  allowing  it 
to  boil.  After  heating  it  for  i  hour 
take  it  from  the  fire  and  allow  it  to  \ 
cool  somewhat  previous  to  pouring  it 
into  a  cylindrical  mould,  made  of  tin, 
tinned  sheet  iron,  or  copper,  having  an 
inking  roller  previously  supported  in 
its  centre  by  means  of  its  end  pivots 
or  gudgeons.  After  remaining  in  the 
mould  at  least  8  to  10  hours  in  winter, 
and  a  longer  time  in  summer,  the  roller 
is  taken  out  of  the  mould  by  means  of 
a  cord  fastened  to  one  of  the  pivots  and 
passed  over  a  strong  pulley  fixed  to  the 
ceiling ;  but  care  must  be  had  to  draw 
the  cylinder  slowly  from  the  mould. 

Old  rollers  are  recast  in  the  same 
manner.  They  are  first  washed  with 
strong  lye,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
water  and  molasses  is  then  added.  But 
the  best  plan  of  making  use  of  old  roll 
ers  is  to  mix  them  with  some  new  ma- 
terial consisting  of  1  part  of  glue  and 
2  of  molasses. 


JEWELLERS'  FOILS. 

Foils  are  very  thin  sheets  of  metal, 
analogous  in  substance  to  a  sheet  of 
paper.    Tinfoil  is  used  on  the  back  of 
looking-glasses    to  form  an   amalgam 
with  the  quicksilver,  for  packing  pur-  j 
poses,  and  as  a  useful  aid  in  electrical  I 
machines.    Jewellers'    foils,  made    of  j 
copper,  tin,  silver,  or  combinations  of  | 
two  of  them  and  colored,  are  used  at  j 
the  back   of  transparent   gems,   espe- 1 
cially  artificial  stones,  to  heighten  the 
brilliancy  and  lustre.    Some  kinds  of 
foil  are  made  by  rolling  sheet  metal  to 
the  requisite  thickness,  others  by  form- 
ing a  solid  cylinder  of  the  metal  and 
then  slicing  off  a  film  while  the  cylinder 
rotates,      jewellers'    foils  are  further 
prepared  by  coloring,  varnishing,  and 
polishing.     If  the  color  of  the  stone  re- 
quires modifying,  a   foil  of  lighter  or 
darker  color  is  used.    The  white  foil  is 
colored  in  the  following  manner : 

Blue.  Turnb  nil's  blue  is  rubbed  up 
with  very  pale,  quick-drying  oil,  until 
the  desired  ghade  is  obtained.  This 
blue  is  used  to  impart  a  darker  color  to 
§aphires. 

Gretn.    Dissolve  shellac  in  alcohol, 


and  add  sufficient  verdigris  to  the  solu* 
tion  to  produce  the  desired  tint. 

Red.  A  solution  of  carmine  in  am« 
monia  or  lacquer,  or  carmine  rubbed 
up  with  isinglass,  may  be  used.  The 
tint,  in  either  case,  can  be  modified  by 
mixing,  and  the  lustre  augmented  after 
the  color  has  been  applied  by  lacquer- 
ing. 

Yellow.  Solution  of  mastic  and  tur- 
meric in  alcohol,  or  a  solution  of  saffron 
and  isinglass  may  be  used. 

To  prepare  a  Crimson  Fluid  for 
Dutch  Gold  or  Paper.  Boil  seed  lac 
in  solution  of  soda,  let  it  stand  for  24 
hours,  pour  off  the  clear  fluid  and  mix  it 
with  glue  or  isinglass  and  a  little  sugar. 
Apply  with  a  brush. 

Yellow  Fluid  for  Foils.  Heat 
saffron  in  five  times  its  weight  of  dis- 
tilled water.  As  soon  as  it  has  assumed 
the  desired  color  pour  off  the  clear  fluid 
and  mix  it  with  gum  or  isinglass.  The 
fluid,  after  it  has  been  applied  and  is 
dry,  must  be  lacquered. 

Green  Fluid  for  Dutch  Gold.  Con- 
vert into  an  impalpable  powder  15 
parts  each  of  cyanide  of  iron  and  bi- 
chromate of  potassium  and  60  parts  of 
mastic,  mix  them  with  the  requisite 
quantity  of  wood  spirit,  and  apply  the 
solution  with  a  brush. 

Process  of  producing  Cameos.  Stir 
marble  cement  into  a  thin  paste  with  a 
mixture  of  yolk  of  egg  and  water.  The 
paste  can  be  colored  as  desired,  and  is 
then  brought  into  moulds  by  means  of 
a  brush.  The  moulds  should  be  sil- 
vered, and  before  using  them,  oiled. 
The  figure  of  the  mould  is  first  filled  in 
with  the  paste,  and  when  this  is  cold  the 
mould  is  filled  up  with  a  paste  of  a 
different  color.  When  all  is  hard  the 
cameo  is  dried,  figure  side  up,  then 
dusted  with  soapstone,  and  brushed 
with  a  soft  brush.  It  may  also  be  im- 
pregnated with  stearine. 

LACQUERS  AND  VARNISHES. 

Manufacture  of  Fat  Copal  Varnish. 
Violette,  who  has  thoroughly  studied 
the  action  of  copal  subjected  to  high 
temperatures,  and  its  solubility,  recom- 
mends the  following  process  for  the 
manufacture  of  copal  varnish  :  The 
copal  is  first  heated  at  680°  F.  until  it 
has  lost  20  to  25  per  cent,  of  its  weight, 


LACQUERS  AND  VARNISHES. 


203 


when  a  suitable  mixture  of  linseed  oil 
and  oil  of  turpentine  is  dissolved  in  the 
melted  copal  at  212°  F. 

The  melting  and  distillation  of  copal 
is  an  operation  which,   as  a  definite 


Fig.  30. 

temperature  must  be  kept  up,  is  very 
difficult  to  execute  on  a  large  scale. 
The  following  apparatuses  have  been 
tested  and  approved  by  Violette.  The 
arrangements  represented  by  Fig  30 
consist  of  a  clay  crucible  /  about  8 
inches  in  diameter  and  12  inches  dee]), 


f  pound  of  copal  and  is  suspended 
from  a  balance,  the  right  scale  pan  of 
which  contains  the  tare  of  the  balloon 
and  the  copal,  while  upon  the  left  scale 
pan  is  placed  a  quarter  of  the  weight  of 
the  copal.  The  vapors  from  the  copal 
escape  through  the  opening  in  the 
chimney  K.  When  25  per  cent,  of  the 


copal  has  been  distilled  off,  the  beam 
of  the  balance  assumes  a  horizontal 
position,  and  the  balloon  is  lifted  from 
the  crucible,  the  distillation  being  fin- 
ished. The  melted  copal  is  distributed 
on  the  sides  of  the  balloon  by  swinging 
the  latter,  when  it  is  allowed  to  cool  off 
somewhat,  and  then  1  pint  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine and  5  ounces  of  linseed  oil  are 
added. 
Figs.  31  and  32  are  respectively  cross 


Fig.  32. 


resting  in  a  furnace.  The  crucible  is 
heated  to  such  a  degree  that  zinc  will 
just  inelt  in  it.  The  balloon  J  is  then 
Drought  into  the  crucible.  It  contains 


and  longitudinal  sections  of  another 
distilling  apparatus.  L  is  a  cast-iron 
block  weighing  about  300 pounds,  which, 
can  be  easily  kept  at  a  definite  temper- 


204 


TECHNO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


ature.  It  is  heated  to  750°  F.,  and 
then  a  little  box  M,  containing  If  ounces 
of  copal,  is  placed  in  the  hollow  space. 


having  a  diameter  about  20  inches, 
which  can  be  turned  by  means  of  a 
handwheel  around  a  horizontal  shaft. 


Fig.  33. 


JA.  moderate  fire  is  kept  up  to  prevent 
the  block  from  becoming  cool.  The 
vapors  evolved  from  the  copal  escape 


represents  the  furnace,  S  a  movable 
helmet,  T the  cooling  apparatus,  (/the 
gas  conductor  which  is  connected  with 


Fig.  34. 


from  the  space  closed  with  the  cover  N 
through  a  pipe,  are  condensed  by  the 
cooling  apparatus  O,  and  collected  as  a 
yellow,  clear  fluid  in  the  vessel  P.  The 
operation  is  interrupted  as  soon  as  a 
quantity,  corresponding  to  the  fourth 
part  of  the  copal,  has  been  collected, 
when  the  box  is  taken  from  the  cavity 
in  the  block  and  the  copal  poured 
out. 

Another  modification  of  the  distilling 
apparatus  is  represented  by  Fig.  33. 
Q  is  a  copper  sphere  silvered  inside  and 


R  the  hollow  axle  of  the  globe.  After 
10  pounds  of  copal  have  been  placed  in 
the  globe  and  the  opening  closed,  a 
moderate  fire  is  started  and  the  globe 
slowly  turned. 

In  the  apparatus  represented  by  Fig. 
34,  the  globe  in  Fig.  33,  is  replaced  by 
a  fixed  still  in  which  the  melted 
copal  is  moved  about  by  means  of  a 
stirring  apparatus.  The  still,  silvered 
inside,  is  40  inches  in  diameter,  and  28 
inches  high.  It  is  bricked  in  up  to  the 
cover,  and  capable  of  holding  200 


LACQUERS  AND  VARNISHES. 


205 


pounds  of  copal ;  b  is  the  opening  for 
charging  the  still  with  copal,  c  the 
stirring  apparatus,  d  the  pipe  for  draw- 
ing off  the  melted  copal,  e  the  pipe  for 
carrying  off  the  oil  of  copal.  A  ther- 
mometer reaching  into  the  still  is  used 
for  ascertaining  the  temperature. 

The  apparatus  represented  by  Fig. 
35  serves  for  dissolving  the  copal,  /  is  a 


Fig.  35. 

cylindrical  vessel  of  tinned  sheet  iron 
40  inches  in  diameter  and  40  inches 
high.  It  is  closed  by  a  lid  to  prevent 
the  evaporation  of  the  oil  of  turpentine, 
and  surrounded  with  a  wooden  jacket 
to  keep  it  from  cooling  off;  g  is  a  grate 
of  tinned  iron  wire  placed  8  inches 
above  the  bottom.  Upon  this  are  placed 
200  pounds  of  copal,  a  like  quantity  of 
linseed  oil,  and  650  pounds  of  oil  of 
turpentine,  previously  introduced.  This 
will  give  1000  pounds  of  varnish.  By 
opening  the  cock  i  on  the  serpentine 
pipe  k,  lying  on  the  bottom  of  the  ves- 
sel /,  steam  can  be  introduced  to  heat 
the  solvent.  The  varnish  is  drawn  off 
through' the  pipe.;'. 

Varnish  prepared  in  this  manner  is 
soluble  in  ether.  Violette  recommends 
the  following  proportions  for  copal : 
One  pound  of  copal  and  2  pounds  of 
sulphuric  ether.  The  resin  is  powdered, 
placed  in  a  flask,  and  the  ether  gradu- 
ally added  with  vigorous  shaking,  and 
the  flask  hermetically  closed.  Solution 
takes  place  readily.  The  varnish  thus 
prepared  is  cleared  by  allowing  it  to 
stand,  and  before  using  it,  filtered 
through  paper  or  linen. 

Xjtli'it  Lacquers  are  especially 
adapted  for  polishing  fine  woods  and 
coating  maps,  book-covers,  etc.  The 
only  objectionable  point  in  using  them 
for  metal  is  that  they  do  not  adhere 
tightly.  This  can  be  remedied  by 
**sing  crystallized  boracic  acid,  i  part 


of  which  is  dissolved  in  1000  parts 
of  the  respective  lacquer.  When  this  is 
applied  to  a  bright  metal  surface  it 
forms  a  hard,  glassy  coating  which  can- 
not be  scratched  off  with  the  finger-nail. 

Iron  Lacquers  are  all  prepared  in  a 
very  simple  manner  by  melting  pitch 
with  various  products  of  the  distillation 
of  tar.  The  pitch  is  melted,  with  an 
addition  of  the  oil,  in  an  open  iron 
boiler  heated  from  the  outside.  The 
oil  accelerates  the  melting  of  the  pitch 
and  prevents  it  from  congealing  too 
rapidly. 

After  the  pitch  has  become  liquid  it 
is  advisable  to  allow  it  to  cool  some- 
what before  adding  the  oil,  to  prevent 
the  latter  from  boiling.  Add  the  oil 
gradually,  and  stir  each  portion  thor- 
oughly into  the  pitch  before  adding  the 
next.  To  see  whether  the  varnish  has 
the  right  consistency  take  occasionally 
a  sample  from  the  boiler,  allowing  it  to 
cool.  An  exact  statement  as  to  the 
quantity  of  oil  to  be  used  cannot  be 
given,  since  the  consistency  of  the  var- 
nish depends  on  the  purpose  for  which 
it  is  to  be  used  and  the  demands  of 
the  consumer. 

Clarifying  Varnish.  A  method  of 
clarifying  varnishes  and  other  liquids 
and  removing  impurities  in  48  hours  is 
as  follows :  Mix  with  every  10  gallons  of 
varnish  8  ounces  each  of  powdered 
marble  dust  and  burnt  oyster-shells. 
All  the  impurities  in  the  varnish  will 
be  attracted  by  and  adhere  to  the 
oyster-shell  dust,  and  the  weight  of  the 
marble  dust  mixed  therewith  precipi- 
tates every  floating  particle  to  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel  containing  the  varnish. 
This  process  may  also  be  applied  to  the 
clarification  of  turpentine,  oils,  and 
molasses. 

Filtering  Varnishes.  The  apparatus 
represented  by  Fig.  36  prevents  a  loss  of 
solvent,  as  spirit  of  wine,  benzole,  etc., 
by  evaporation.  It  consists  of  a  large 
flask,  P,  either  of  glass  or  tin,  closed  by 
a  doubly  perforated  stopper  In  one  of 
the  holes  is  placed  the  neck  of  the  glass 
funnel  T,  the  upper  rim  of  which  is 
ground  smooth,  and  the  other  is  fitted 
with  a  glass  tube,  r,  bmit  at  a  right  angle. 
A  thick  wooden  cover,  with  a  ring  of 
rubber  on  the  lower  side,  is  placed  upon 
the  funnel,  closing  it  air-tight.  In  the 
centre  oi'the  lid  is  fitted  a  glass  tube, 


206 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


also  bent  at  a  right  angle,  and  connected 
with  the  tube  r'  by  a  rubber  hose  k. 


Fig.  36. 

Either  filtering  paper  or  fine  cotton  is 
used  as  a  filtering  substance,  of  which 
a  plug  is  formed  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  cone  of  the  funnel  and  lightly 
pressed  into  the  tube  of  the  funnel. 
The  air  in  the  bottle,  F,  is  displaced  by 
the  fluid  dropping  into  it,  and  escapes 
through  r  k  and  r'  dropping  into  the 
funnel,  where  it  absorbs  the  vapor  of 
the  fluid,  but  absorbs  not/ting  after  it  is 
once  saturated.  While  evaporation 
goes  on  constantly  when  an  open  funnel 
is  used,  it  is  entirely  checked  by  using 
this  apparatus.  When  it  is  observed 
that  the  pores  of  the  filter  become 
very  much  choked  up,  the  contents  of 
the  filter  are  allowed  to  run  off  and  the 
filtering  material  is  changed. 

Spirit  Gold-Lac  Varnishes.  I.  Pul- 
verize 66  parts  of  shellac  and  133 
parts  of  gambocre.  Rub  up  the  powder 
with  8  parts  of  dried  saffron  and  dis- 
solve the  whole  in  266  parts  of  alcohol 
in  a  flask  tied  up  with  a  piece  of  per- 
forated bladder,  by  placing  it  in  a  water- 
bath. 

II.  Treat  the  following  ingredients 
in  the  same  manner  as  above  :  Thirty- 
three  parts  of  shellac,  16  parts  of  drag- 
on's blood,  a  like  quantity  of  turmeric, 


and  8  parts  of  gamboge  dissolved  in  200 
to  266  parts  of  alcohol. 

III.  Thirty-three  parts  of  shellac,  4 
parts  of  dragon's  blood,  and  2  parts  of 
saffron  are  digested  in  800  to  1200  parts 
of  alcohol  for  8  daya  in  the  sun,  and 
then  filtered. 

Qold'Lac  Varnish  with  Shellac  and 
other  Resins.  I.  Mix  133  parts  of  seed 
lac,  a  like  quantity  of  sandarac,66  parts 
of  turpentine,  16  parts  of  dragon's 
blood,  and  2  parts  each  of  gamboge  and 
turmeric  witn  133  to  166  parts  of  pul- 
verized glass,  and  digest  the  whole  in 
1600  parts  of  alcohol. 

II.  Pour  500  to  600  parts  of  alcohol 
over  30  parts  of  seed  lac,  60  parts  of 
sandarac,  a  like  quantity  of  elemi,  30 
parts  of  dragon's  blood,  20  parts  each  of 
turmeric  and  gamboge,  1  part  of  saffron, 
and  60  to  100  parts  of  pulverized  glass. 

III.  Take   133  parts   of  shellac,  50 
parts  of  sandarac,  33   parts  of  mastic 
in  grains,  100  parts   or  yellow  rosin. 
33  parts  each  of  yellow  amber    and 
dragon's  blood,  24  parts  each  of  gam- 
boge and  turmeric,  and  if  a  deeper  color 
is  desired,  30  parts  of  aloes,  and  pour 
2000  parts  of  alcohol  over  the  whole. 

Gold  Varnish  without  Lac.  Dissolve  33 
parts  of  copal,  16  parts  of  white  boiled 
turpentine,  and  4  of  camphor  in  alcohol. 
Then  prepare  a  solution  of  33  parts  of 
sandarac,  16  parts  of  mastic,  8  parts  of 
dragon's  blood,  16  parts  of  gamboge,  8 
parts  of  annotto,  and  4  parts  of  aloes  in 
spirit  of  wine,  and  mix  the  two  solu- 
tions together. 

Gold-Lac  Varnishes  with  Oil  of  Tur- 
pentine and  Oil  of  Lavender  (from 
Lavandula  spica).  I.  Without  Linseed- 
oil  Varnish.  Boil  66  parts  of  mastic, 
a  like  quantity  of  sandarac,  and  4  parts 
of  turpentine  with  100  parts  of  oil  of 
lavender  over  a  coal  fire ;  then  add  33 
parts  of  aloes  and  some  rosin,  and 
heat  the  whole  until  a  small  feather 
dipped  into  the  mixture  ignites. 

II.  With  an  Addition  of  Lin  seed -oil 
Varnish.  1.  Dissolve  with  the  aid  of 
a  water-bath  16  parts  of  amber,  33 
parts  of  shellac,  16  parts  of  sandarac,  33 
parts  of  aloes,  4  parts  of  gamboge,  and 
2  parts  of  dragon's  blood  in  266  parts 
of  oil  of  turpentine,  and  then  add  a  few 
drops  of  strong  linseed-oil  varnish. 

2.  Pulverize  266  parts  of  amber  and 
66  parts  of  stick  lac.  Dissolve  the  pow- 


LACQUERS  AND  VARNISHES. 


207 


der  in  266  parts  of  hot  linseed-oil  var- 
nish and  400  to  533  parts  of  hot  oil  of 
turpentine,  previously  Colored  with  66 
parts  each  of  gamboge,  dragon's  blood, 
and  annotto,  and  16  parts  of  saffron. 

3.  Mix  133  parts  of  stick  lac,  a  like 
quantity  of  sandarac,  16  parts  of  drag- 
on's blood,  '2  parts  of  gamboge,  and  166 
parts  of  pulverized  glass,  and  digest  the 
mixture  in  500  parts  each  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine and  linseed-oil  varnish. 

All  the  foregoing  receipts  have  been 
tested  and  can  be  highly  recommended. 

Walton's  Process  of  Preparing  Lin- 
seed-oil Varnish  consists  mainly  in  ex- 
posing the  linseed  oil  to  the  action  of 
air,  whereby  it  is  converted  into  a  resin- 
ous mass  which,  dissolved  in  wood 
spirit  or  alcohol,  furnishes  a  quickly 
drying  varnish.  The  apparatus  repre- 
sented by  Fig.  37  is  used.  Clear  linseed 
oil  is  mixed  with  a  siccative,  5  to  10 
per  cent,  of  acetate  of  lead  being  the 


m-'st  suitable.  The  mixture  is  then 
passed  through  the  apparatus,  a  is  a 
tube  through  which  the  oil  is  conveyed 
by  means  of  a  force-pump  into  the 
reservoir  b  provided  with  a  perforated 
bottom  c.  The  oil  passes  down  through 
this  bottom,  and  falls  in  jets  or  drops 
through  the  column  d,  whereby  it  comes 
in  contact  with  air  forced  in  at  e  by 
means  of  a  blower.  Two  sides  of  the 


column  are  constructed  of  glass  to 
allow  the  entrance  of  light,  which  ex- 
ert^ also  a  bleaching  effect  upon  the 
oil ;  /and  /*  are  perforated  zinc  plates. 
The  object  of  /  is  to  distribute  tiie  air 
in  the  apparatus  over  the  hollow  col- 
umn, while  that  of/1  is  to  allow  the  air 
to  pass  out  and  to  retain  particles  of  oil. 
The  current  oi  air  need  not  be  very 
strong,  but  a  constant  renewal  of  the 
air  in  the  apparatus  is  absolutely  re- 
quired. The  oil  falls  into  the  reservoir 
g,  beneath  which  is  a  space  A,  which  is 
heated  from  212°  to  300°  F.  by  the 
introduction  of  steam ;  the  higher  the 
temperature  the  quicker  will  be  the  con- 
version of  the  oil ;  i  is  a  pipe  through 
which  the  oil  is  re-conveyed  to  the 
pump,  by  which  it  is  again  forced  into 
j  the  reservoir  b,  drops  down  through  d, 
:  and  so  on  until  it  has  become  sufficiently 
I  changed.  On  the  upper  end  of  b  is  a 
small  cylinder,  jt  containing  a  valve  k, 
which  is  connected  with  a  lever,  /, 
loaded  in  proportion  to  the  pressure 
which  is  to  be  exerted  in  b.  The  rod  m 
is  connected  in  such  a  manner  with  a 
cock  on  the  pipe  i,  that,  when  the  valve 
k  rises  too  high,  in  consequence  of 
too  strong  a  pressure,  communication 
between  the  pump  and  the  reservoir  g 
is  interrupted. 

Several  Universal  Furniture  Var- 
nishes. I.  Dissolve  240  parts  of  san- 
darac, 60  parts  of  seed  lac,  and  120  parts 
of  rosin  in  1500  parts  of  spirit  of 
wine,  and  compound  the  solution  with 
180  parts  of  Venetian  turpentine. 

II.  Compound  ISO  parts  of  naphtha 
with  30  parts  of  virgin  wax.    Apply 
the  varnish  warm  and  polish  with  a 
woollen  rag. 

III.  Boil  500  parts  of  white  wax  in  a 
solution  of  750  parts  of  potash  in  warm 
water  for  I  hour,  and,  when  the  lye  has 
become  cold,  skim  off  the  wax  which 
floats  on  the  surface.     Apply  the  wax  to 
the  furniture,  and  by  rubbing  it  an  hour 
afterwards   with    a    woollen    cloth,  a 
beautiful  lustre  will  be  the  result. 

IV.  Melt  120  parts  of  yellow  wax 
and    a    little    pulverized .  rosin,    and 
compound  this  with  60  parts  of  warm 
oil  of  turpentine  or  spirits  of  turpen- 
tine.    Rub  the  furniture  with  this  by 
means  of  a  woollen  rag,  which  will  give 
it  a  beautiful  lustre. 

Balloon  Varnish.    Cut  up  500  parts 


208 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


of  caoutchouc,  and  let  it  digest  in  3000 
parts  of  oil  of  turpentine  for  7  days, 
putting  the  vessel  in  a 'warm  place; 
then  heat  the  mixture  in  a  water-bath 
until  it  is  entirely  homogeneous,  add 
2000  parts  of  warm  drying  oil  pre- 
viously boiled,  mix  intimately,  and 
strain  the  compound  as  soon  as  it  is 
cold.  The  above  receipts  have  been 
tested  and  can  be  highly  recommended. 

Copal  Varnish  with  Spirit  of  Sal-am- 
moniac. Convert  copal  into  a  coarse 
powder  and  gradually  pour  spirit  of 
sal-ammoniac  over  it  until  the  whole 
is  swelled  up  to  a  thick,  transparent 
mass.  Heat  this  to  100°  F.,  then  mix 
it  gradually  with  alcohol  75  to  80  per 
cent,  strong,  shake  it  thoroughly,  and 
finally  add  more  alcohol  to  give  the 
mixture  the  requisite  consistency. 

Chinese  Vanish.  Dissolve  60  parts 
of  shellac  and  a  piece  of  camphor  the 
size  of  a  hazel-nut  in  1000  parts  of  spirit 
of  wine,  by  placing  the  vessel  contain- 
ing it  in  the  sun  or  in  hot  ashes  for  24 
hours,  shaking  the  bottle  from  time  to 
time  ;  then  strain  the  fluid.  Let  the 
varnish  stand  quietly  for  24  hours,  and 
then  pour  it  off  carefully  from  the  sedi- 
ment ;  the  latter  may  be  used  for  the 
first  coat. 

Incombustible  Varnish  for  Wood. 
An  application  of  a  solution  of  equal 
parts  of  alum  and  isinglass  to  the  place 
exposed  to  the  flame  prevents  ignition, 
but  not  the  transmission  of  heat.  By 
coating  wooden  vessels  with  this  var- 
nish fluids  may  be  boiled  in  them  over 
an  ordinary  fire. 

Varnish  for  Wood  not  acted  upon  -by 
Boiling  Water.  Boil  in  an  untinned 
copper  boiler  750  parts  ~of  linseed  oil. 
Suspend  in  this,  in  a  bag  which  must 
not  touch  the  bottom,  150  parts  of 
litharge  and  90  parts  of  pulverized 
minium.  Let  the  oil  boil  until  it  has 
assumed  a  dark-brown  color ;  then  re- 
move the  bag  and  replace  it  by  one 
containing  7  to  8  bulbs  of  garlic.  Now 
melt  500  parts  of  pulverized  amber  in 
60  parts  of  linseed  oil  over  a  strong  fire, 
add  it  while  boiling  to  the  prepared 
linseed  oil  and  let  it  boil  for  2  to  3 
minutes  longer,  stirring  it  vigorously. 
Then  take  it  from  the  fire,  allow  it  to 
settle,  pour  off  the  clear  liquid,  and 
when  cold  put  it  in  bottles,  which 
should  be  hermetically  closed. 


To  use  this  varnish,  polish  the  wood 
first  and  give  it  the  desired  color,  for 
instance,  nut  brown,  by  laying  on  a  thin 
coat  of  a  mixture  of  lampblack  and  oil 
of  turpentine.  When  the  stain  is  dry 
apply  four  coats  of  the  varnish  with  a 
fine  sponge,  allowing  one  coat  to  dry 
before  laying  on  the  next. 

Varnish  for  Earthen-ware  Vessels. 
Mix  equal  parts  of  pulverized  glass  and 
soda,  dry  the  mixture  over  a  strong  tire 
and  spread  it  upon  the  surface  of  the 
burnt  vessels  while  they  are  still  hot. 

Japanese  Transparent  Lac  Varnish, 
Dissolve  30  parts  of  copal  and  2  part* 
of  camphor  in  120  parts  of  oil  of  turpeii' 
tine  and  30  parts  of  oil  of  lavender. 

Japanese  Black  Lac  Varnish.  I.  Take 
120  parts  of  burnt  umber,  60  parts  of 
genuine  asphaltum,  and  3000  parts  of 
boiled  oil.  Dissolve  the  asphaltum  in 
a  small  portion  of  the  oil  with  the  aid 
of  heat,  then  add  the  umber,  previously 
rubbed  up  with  oil,  and  finally  the  re- 
maining oil ;  mix  the  whole  thoroughly, 
allow  it  to  cool,  and  thin  with  oil  of 
turpentine.  This  varnish  is  very  elas- 
tic. 

II.  Dissolve  1  part  of  shellac  in  4  of 
wood  spirit,  and  color  with  lampblack. 

Varnish  for  Fans,  Fancy  Boxes,  etc. 
Dissolve  60  parts  of  mastic  and  240 
parts  of  sandarac  in  1500  parts  of  spirit 
of  wine,  and  compound  the  solution 
with  120  parts  of  Venetian  turpentine. 

Varnish  for  Umbrellas.  Boil  2  parts 
of  turpentine  and  1  of  pulverized  lith- 
arge in  2  to  3  of  linseed  oil.  This 
varnish  is  applied  with  a  brush  and 
dried  in  the  sun. 

Black  Varnish  for  Tinsmiths.  Mix 
fine  lampblack  or  Frankford  black 
with  a  solution  of  shellac,  or  with  a 
solution  of  1  part  of  asphaltum  in  3  of 
oil  of  turpentine,  and  then  add  some 
linseed  oil  and  minium. 

Gold  Varnish  on  Iron.  Boil  in  an 
earthen-ware  pot  90  parts  or  more  of 
linseed  oil,  60  parts  of  tartar,  i!0  parts 
of  hard-boiled  yelk  of  egg,  15  parts 
of  aloes,  J  part  of  saffron,  and  <&  part 
of  turmeric,  and  apply  the  fluid  to  the 
iron. 

Pitch  Varnish  for  Buildings.  One 
pound  of  linseed  oil,  150  parts  of  pitch, 
and  120  parts  of  litharge  are  boiled  over 
a  coal  fire  and  stirred  until  they  are 
intimately  mixed.  Apply  one  or,  if 


LACQUERS  AND  VARNISHES. 


209 


necessary,  several  coats  of  this  varnish 
to  the  weather  side  of  the  buildings, 
which  will  render  them  impervious  to 
moisture.  The  above  quantity  suffices 
to  give  4  coats  to  18  square  feet  of  sur- 
face. Shingle  roofs  coated  with  this 
varnish  last  at  least  twice  as  long  as 
ordinary. 

Spirit  Varnish  for  Violins  and  other 
Musical  Instruments.  Dissolve  over  a 
moderate  fire  120  parts  of  sandarac,  60 
parts  of  shellac,  a  like  quantity  of 
mastic,  and  30  parts  of  elemi  in  1500 
parts  of  highly  rectified  spirit  of  wine, 
and  after  the  solution  has  boiled  up 
several  times,  add  60  parts  of  Venetian 
turpentine. 

Black  Varnish  for  Zinc.  Equal  parts 
of  chlorate  of  potassium  and  blue  vit- 
riol are  dissolved  in  36  times  as  much 
warm  water,  and  the  solution  allowed 
to  cool.  If  the  sulphate  of  copper  used 
contains  iron,  it  is  precipitated  as  a 
hydrated  oxide  and  can  be  removed  by 
decantation  or  filtration.  The  zinc 
castings  are  then  immersed  for  a  few 
seconds  in  the  solution  until  quite 
black,  rinsed  off  with  water,  and  dried. 
Even  before  it  is  dry  the  black  coating 
adheres  to  the  article  so  that  it  may  be 
wiped  dry  with  a  cloth.  If  copper-col- 
ored spots  appear  during  the  operation, 
the  solution  is  applied  to  them  a  second 
time,  and  after  awhile  they  turn  black, 
when  the  article  is  washed  and  dried. 
On  rubbing,  the  coating  acquires  a 
glittering  appearance  like  indigo,  which 
disappears  on  applying  a  few  drops  of 
linseed-oil  varnish  or  "  wax-milk,"  and 
the  zinc  then  has  a  deep-black  color 
and  gloss.  The  "wax-milk"  is  pre- 
pared by  boiling  1  part  of  yellow  soap 
and  5  of  Japanese  wax  in  21  of  water 
until  the  soap  dissolves.  When  cold 
it  lias  the  consistency  of  a  salve,  and 
will  keep  in  closed  vessels  for  an  in- 
definite time.  It  can  be  used  for  pol- 
ishing carved  wood  and  for  waxing 
ball-room  floors,  as  it  is  cheaper  than 
the  solution  of  wax  in  turpentine)  and 
does  not  stick  or  smell  disagreeably 
like  the  latter. 

Parisian  Wood  Varnish.  This  cele- 
brated varnish  is  prepared  by  dissolv- 
ing 1  part  of  shellac  in  3  or  4  of  alcohol 
of  92  per  cent,  on  the  water-bath,  and 
cautiously  adding  distilled  water  until 
a  curdy  mass  separates,  which  is  col- 
14 


lected  and  wrapped  in  linen.  The 
liquid  is  filtered  through  paper,  all  the 
alcohol  removed  by  distillation  from 
the  water-bath,  and  the  resin  removed 
and  dried  at  212°  F.  until  it  ceases  to 
lose  weight.  It  is  then  dissolved  in 
double  its  weight  of  alcohol  of  at  least 
96  to  98  per  cent.,  and  the  solution  per- 
fumed with  lavender  oil. 

Furniture  Varnish.  Heat  gently, 
with  constant  stirring,  8  parts  of  white 
wax,  2  of  rosin,  and  i  of  Venetian 
turpentine;  pour  the  mixture  into  a 
glazed  stone  pot  and  add,  while  it  is 
yet  warm,  3500  parts  of  rectified  oil  of 
turpentine.  After  standing  for  24  hours 
the  mass  forms  a  soft,  buttery  substance, 
and  is  ready  for  use.  The  articles  to 
be  varnished  must  be  carefullv  cleansed 
with  soap  and  water  and  then  dried 
before  applying  the  varnish.  The  pol- 
ish obtained  is  not  quite  as  brilliant  as 
that  obtained  by  shellac  varnish,  but 
has  a  peculiar,  chaste  appearance. 

To  Lacquer  Flowers.  Pulverize  40 
parts  of  sandarac,  15  parts  of  mastic, 
and  2  parts  of  camphor,  and  put  the 
powder  into  a  long-necked  flask ;  then 
pour  1000  parts  of  rectified  spirit  of 
wine  over  it,  and  place  the  flask  in  a 
moderately  warm  place,  shaking  it  at 
first  frequently,  and  then  allowing  it 
to  stand  quietly  so  that  the  fluid  may 
settle.  Flowers,  plants,  and  herbs  may 
be  coated  with  this  varnish.  Flowers 
retain  not  only  their  beautiful  colors, 
but  are  also  protected  against  the  rav- 
ages of  insects.  This  varnish  is  also 
adapted  for  coating  maps,  playing- 
cards,  copper  prints,  and  pictures. 

White  Unchangeable  Lacquer  for 
Leather.  Artificially  prepared  carbon- 
ate of  baryta  is  rubbed  up  with  very 
light  linseed-oil  varnish  and  the  com- 
pound applied  to  the  leather.  On  this 
is  laid  a  coat  prepared  from  carbonate  of 
baryta  and  white  copal  varnish.  When 
dry  the  lacquer  is  pumiced  with  elutri- 
ated pumice-stone  and  a  piece  of  felt, 
and  then  polished  with  elutriated  bone- 
ash.  The  white  color  of  this  lacquer  is 
not  changed  in  the  least  by  sulphur- 
etted or  other  exhalations,  which,  as  is 
well  known,  darken  white  lead. 

To  Polish  Carved  Work.  Dissolve 
1  part  of  seed  lac  and  1  of  transparent 
resin  in  9  of  spirit  of  wine.  This  polish 
must  be  applied  warm,  and  the  article 


210 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


to  be  polished  must  also  be  heated  if 
possible. 

A  beautiful  French  polish  is  obtained 
by  using  the  following  ingredients: 
700  parts  of  spirit  of  wine,  15  parts  of 
copal,  7  parts  of  gum-Arabic  and  30 
parts  of  shellac.  The  resins  are  first 
pulverized  and  bolted  through  a  piece 
of  muslin.  The  powder  is  placed  in  a 
flask,  the  spirit  of  wine  poured  over  it, 
and  the  flask  corked.  By  putting  the 
flask  in  a  moderately  warm  place,  the 
solution  will  be  accomplished  in  2  or  3 
days.  It  is  then  strained  through  a 
piece  of  muslin  and  kept  in  hermeti- 
cally closed  bottles.  This  polish  gives 
a  beautiful  appearance  to  the  carvings, 
and  a  gloss  and  richness  of  color  which 
cannot  be  obtained  by  any  other  means. 
It  is  especially  adapted  for  polishing 
fine  furniture,  and  for  this  purpose  is  to 
be  preferred  to  all  other  polishes.  To 
give  to  articles  polished  with  this  lac- 

£uer  the  finest  finish  possible,  the  fol- 
)wing  peparation  is  used :  Put  8  parts 
of  shellac  and  a  like  quantity  of  ben- 
zoin, and  350  parts  of  rectified  spirit  of 
wine  into  a  flask,  keep  this  in  a  warm 
place  until  all  the  gum  is  dissolved, 
and  shake  it  vigorously.  To  the  cold 
solution  add  a  small  portion  of  the  best 
poppy-seed  oil,  which  should  be  as 
clear  as  water;  mix  all  intimately  to- 
gether and  keep  it  for  use. 

Parisian  Bronze  Lacquer.  Dissolve 
1  part  of  shellac  in  8  to  10  of  alcohol 
and  add  to  the  solution  i  part  of 
camphor  rubbed  up  with  a  few  drops  of 
lavender  oil. 

Black  Polish  on  Iron  and  Steel.  A 
beautiful  black  polish  is  obtained  by 
boiling  1  part  of  sulphur  with  10  of  oil 
of  turpentine,  but  it  has  a  disagreeable 
odor.  A  coat  as  thin  as  possible  is  laid 
on  the  article  to  be  polished,  which  is 
then  held  over  the  flame  of  an  alcohol 
lamp  until  the  black  polish  makes  its 
appearance. 

A  New  Varnish  (patented  in  Ger- 
many), which  serves  as  substitute  for 
linseed  oil  or  oil  of  turpentine,  is  pre- 
pared in  the  following  manner:  100 
parts  of  rosin  free  from  oil  of  tur- 
pentine, 20  of  crystallized  soda,  and  50 
of  water  are  heated  together  and  then 
intimately  mixed  with  250  parts  of 
water  containing  24  of  aqua  ammonia. 
The  coloring  substances  are  rubbed 


up  with  this  preparation  without  an 
addition  of  linseed  oil,  or  oil  of  turpen- 
tine ;  they  dry  easily  without  a  sicca- 
tive, and  can  be  coated  with  lacquer. 
This  varnish  becomes  very  hard,  resists 
the  action  of  water  arid  atmospheric 
influences,  and  is  about  i  cheaper  than 
ordinary  varnish. 

Parisian  Bookbinders'  Lacquer.  Dis- 
solve on  the  water-bath  360  parts  of  shel- 
lac and  2  parts  each  of  camphor  and  loaf 
sugar  in  3000  parts  of  alcohol  of  66  per 
cent.  Filter  the  solution  through  blot- 
ting-paper, distil  otf  i  of  the  alcohol, 
and  add  to  the  residue,  while  yet  warm, 
a  trace  of  oil  of  cinnamon. 

Excellent  Glass-like  Varnish.  Dis- 
solve at  a  moderate  heat  4  parts  of 
camphor,  60  parts  of  sandarac,  15  parts 
each  of  Venetian  turpentine  and  oil  of 
turpentine,  and  4  parts  of  white  sugar 
in  400  parts  of  spirit  of  wine  of  96  per 
cent.,  and  clarify  the  solution  by  allow- 
ing it  to  stand  for  some  time.  In  using 
the  varnish  expose  the  article  to  be 
coated  to  a  gentle  heat,  and  then  apply 
the  solution,  which,  when  it  becomes 
dry,  will  form  a  beautiful,  glass-like 
coat. 

Varnish  for  Wood  Naturally  Colored 
or  Stained.  Pulverize  and  dissolve 
3  parts  of  light-colored  shellac,  2  of 
sandarac,  2  of  white  rosin,  and  i  of 
camphor  in  24  of  alcohol  of  80  per 
cent.  Put,  first,  the  shellac,  sandarac, 
and  camphor  in  the  alcohol,  tie  up  the 
vessel  with  a  piece  of  wet  bladder  and 
shake  it  for  half  an  hour ;  then  add  the 
rosin,  and  let  the  mixture  boil  up  sev- 
eral times  in  a  suitable  vessel.  Filter 
the  ready  varnish,  while  yet  warm, 
through  cotton  or  felt,  and  to  clarify 
it  let  it  stand  for  12  hours  in  a  well- 
closed  bottle.  No  more  varnish  than 
is  to  be  used  in  2  or  3  days  should  be 
prepared  at  one  time,  since  age  impairs 
its  beauty  and  hardness. 

Colorless  Varnish.  Boil  500  parts 
of  linseed  oil  with  1000  of  water  for  2 
hours ;  then  add  60  parts  of  silver 
litharge,  45  of  sugar  of  lead,  one  onion,  t 
and  a  small  piece  of  pumice-stone,  and 
then  heat  the  mixture  for  some  time 
longer. 

French  Leather  Lacquer.  Boil  15 
parts  of  logwood  shavings  in  120  of  or- 
dinary water  until  but  half  the  quan- 
tity remains ;  dissolve  in  this  2  parts 


LACQUERS  AND  VARNISHES. 


211 


of  sugar  and  12  of  gum- Arabic  and 
compound  the  mixture  with  solution  of 
ferric  sulphate  until  the  previously 
brown-red  color  of  the  decoction  has 
changed  into  a  violet-blue  tint,  and 
finally  add  some  spirit  of  wine. 

Cheap  Lacquer  for  Harnesses  and 
Carriage  Toj)s.  Soak  2  parts  of  glue 
and  then  liquefy  it  over  a  moderate  fire. 
Then  dissolve  3  parts  of  ordinary  soap 
over  a  moderate  fire  and  add  this  to  the 
solution  of  glue.  About  120  parts  of 
water  are  used  for  dissolving  both  in- 
gredients. After  the  two  solutions  have 
been  intimately  mixed  add  3  to  4  parts 
of  spirit  varnish,  and  finally  stir  into 
the  mixture  2  parts  of  good  wheat  starch 
previously  triturated  with  some  water. 
Now  place  the  pot  containing  the  mixt- 
ure over  a  moderate  coal  fire,  and  let 
it  evaporate,  although  it  may  also  be 
used  before  evaporation.  The  evapor- 
ated mass,  when  to  be  used,  is  liquefied 
by  adding  beer  or  water.  The  thinner 
the  coat  the  more  beautiful  will  be  the 
gloss. 

Lacquer  for  Drawings.     Dissolve  30 

.  to  40  parts  of  dammar  in  180  parts  of 

acetone  and  then  mix  40  parts   of  this 

solution  with  30  parts   of  thickly-fluid 

collodion. 

Transparent  Lacquer  for  Closing 
Bottles.  A  process  of  closing  bottles, 
which  is  more  elegant  and  effectual 
than  with  tinfoil,  has  recently  been 
introduced  in  France.  The  neck  of  the 
bottle  is  dipped  into  a  tenacious  mass 
and  quickly  withdrawn  with  a  rotary 
motion,  if  is  in  this  manner  covered 
with  a  transparent  mass,  which  can  be 
given  a  still  more  beautiful  appearance 
by  placing  the  monogram  of  the  firm 
or  other  label  on  the  neck  of  the  bottle 
or  on  the  cork.  The  preparation  con- 
sists of  20  parts  of  rosin,  40  of  ether, 
60  of  collodion,  and  any  desired  color- 
ing matter. 

Tar  Varnish.  Tar  is  intimately 
mixed  with  equal  parts  of  hydraulic 
lime  and  Roman  or  Portland  cement, 
by  heating  the  ingredients  to  158°  F. 
The  mixture  remains  thinly  fluid  and, 
when  dry,  soft  and  flexible.  This 
varnish  is  not  acted  upon  by  acids  and 
protects  wood  from  rotting.  It  is 
especially  adapted  for  wood  under 


practice  of  pumicing  furniture  \ 
is  now  supplanted  by  Rossbach'i 


Water,  shingles,  and  water-pipes. 
Polishing    of    Wood.      The 


former 


with  oil 
a  patent 

(now  expired)  of  pumicing  dry  and 
coating  with  a  mixture  of  285  parts  of 
copal,  57  of  oil  of  turpentine,  628  of  in- 
fusorial earth,  and  28  of  umber,  prin- 
cipally used  for  walnut  and  chestnut; 
for  rose-wood,  carmine  is  used  in  place 
of  umber,  for  oak,  ochre,  etc.  A  solu- 
tion of  3  parts  of  shellac,  2  of  copal,  and 

1  of  oil  of  rosemary  in  10  of  alcohol  is 
used  as  a  ground  lacquer. 

Elastic  Lacquer.  Slake  15  parts  of 
lime  with  20  parts  of  water,  and  add, 
while  the  lime  is  yet  warm,  50  parts  of 
melted  crude  caoutchouc.  When  cold 
the  lacquer  is  in  the  form  of  a  paste. 
It  is  best  applied  warm. 

Black  Earnest  Lacquer.     Dissolve 
I  40  parts   of  best  shellac,  10   parts  of 
'  sandarac,  and  5  parts  of  mastic  in  500 
j  parts  of  spirit  of  wine.     To  prevent 
the  lacquer  from  becoming  brittle  add 
to  the  solution  20  to   30  parts  of  pure 
Venetian  turpentine,  and  finally  suf- 
ficient   aniline-black    (nigrosine)    dis- 
solved in  water  or  spirit  of  wine. 

Parchment  Fluid  is  prepared  from 
gutta-percha  soaked  and  swelled  up  in 
ether.  It  is  used  for  coating  pictures, 
maps,  etc.  The  coat,  if  stained,  or  soiled, 
can  be  washed  with  a  moist  sponge. 
Crayon  and  charcoal  drawings  can  be 
fixed  by  coating  them  with  this 
lacquer. 

To  provide  Bars  of  Spring  Steel  U'ith 
a  Coating  not  acted  upon  by  Acids, 
Alkalies,  Chlorine,  and  Steam.  The 
bars  are  first  coated  with  copal  or  as- 
phaltum  lacquer  and  dried  at  a  high 
temperature.  They  are  then  wrapped  in 
several  layers  of  strongly-pressed  paper 
impregnated  with  chromium  glue,  and 
subjected  to  a  very  strong  pressure,  and 
finally  receive  a  coat  of  the  following 
compound  :  Fifty  parts  of  China  clay, 
10  of  shellac,  8  of  sandarac,  3  of  elemi, 

2  of  gun-cotton,  0.5  of  camphor,  and  5 
of  oil   of   lavender   (from   Larendula 
spica)  dissolved  in  100  parts  of  alcohol. 
When  half  dry  the  bars  are  again  sub- 
jected to  pressure,  and  when  entirely 
dry,  ground. 

"Aluminium  P«  Imitate  and  its  Uses 
in  different  Branches  of  Industry. 
Aluminium  palmitate,  a  combination 
of  alumina  and  palmitic  acid,  is  a  resin- 
ous substance  of  remarkable  properties, 


212 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


making  it  useful  for  many  purposes. 
It  melts  at  a  higher  temperature  than 
dammar  and  copal  resin,  and  is  easily 
soluble  in  oil  of  turpentine  and  benzine. 
A  solution  of  1  part  of  it  in  5  of  a  sol- 
vent retains  a  lacquer-like,  thickly- 
fluid  consistency.  The  lacquer  obtained 
in  this  manner  does  not  soak  through 
paper,  never  becomes  brittle,  but  re- 
mains flexible  and  dries  quickly.  It 
has  a  beautiful  silky  gloss,  bears  an 
addition  of  any  amount  of  dammar  and 
copal,  obtaining  thereby  greater  gloss 
and  depriving  the  latter  two  resins  of 
their  brittleness.  Aluminium  palmi- 
tate  will  without  doubt  be  of  great  im- 
portance in  the  manufacture  of  wall 
paper,  lacquers,  artificial  leather,  water- 
proof substances,  etc.  Lacquer  pre- 
pared from  it  will  be  of  great  value  in 
manufacturing  gold  wall  papers  and  for 
coating  genuine  and  imitation  leather 
hangings,  giving  to  the  latter  the  char- 
acteristic gloss  of  stamped  leather  and 
preserving  it  in  the  first.  It  furnishes 
also  an  excellent  vegetable  glue  which 
does  not  spoil,  is,  and  remains,  entirely 
neutral,  and  consequently  exerts  no 
injurious  influence  upon  the  shades  of 
the  colors.  This  makes  it  especially 
useful  in  the  manufacture  of  velvet 
wall  papers.  If  used  as  a  sizing  on 
cotton  fabrics,  it  imparts  to  them  a 
silky  gloss  which  does  not  entirely  dis- 
appear even  after  frequent  washings. 
This  sizing,  on  account  of  its  neutrality 
and  entire  indifference,  can  be  used  for 
fabrics  printed  with  the  most  critical 
colors  without  injuring  them  in  the 
least.  Palmitate  lacquer  is  not  acted 
upon  by  water  and  can  therefore,  as  it 
remains  perfectly  flexible,  be  advan- 
tageously used  in  the  manufacture  of 
artificial  leather,  rubber  tissues,  and 
water-proof  fabrics,  its  property  of  being 
entirely  inodorous  when  dry  deserving 
special  commendation. 

New  Method  of  Preparing  Fat  Lac- 
quer and  Varnish,  Patented  in  Ger- 
many by  Zimmermann  and  Holtzwich. 
The  resins  are  melted  by  a  current  of 
air  heated  above  the  melting  point  of 
the  resins  and  circulating  in  the  melt- 
ing apparatus.  The  products  escaping 
in  melting  are  collected  in  a  cooled  and 
closed  receiver.  The  warm  current  of 
air,  after  it  leaves  the  melting  appa- 
ratus, serves  to  convert  the  linseed  oil 


into  varnish.  The  addition  of  litharge 
is  saved  by  the  use  of  lead  vessels  or 
lining  them  with  sheet  lead.  The  lin- 
seed oil  flows  slowly  down  in  an  appa- 
ratus through  several  boxes  placed 
above  each  other,  from  whence  it 
reaches  a  reservoir  (a  kind  of  montejus), 
is  pumped  up  by  compressed  air  into 
another  vessel,  and  flows  from  this 
again  through  the  boxes,  the  operation 
being  repeated  until  it  is  converted 
into  varnish.  With  this  apparatus  a 
light-colored  fine  varnish  of  excellent 
consistency,  equal  to  the  best  English 
varnish,  is  prepared  in  about  one 
quarter  of  the  time  used  in  the  ordi- 
nary process. 

Light  Copal  Varnish  with  Coal-tar 
Varnish  Oil.  Light  copal  2  parts, 
light  rosin  1,  sandarac  and  Venetian 
turpentine  each  ^,  varnish  oil  10. 
Pulverize  and  melt  together  the  copal 
and  rosin,  then  add  the  sandarac,  and 
finally  the  turpentine  ;  stir  until  all  are 
dissolved,  let  it  cool  somewhat  and 
then  add  the  varnish  oil,  first  in  small 
portions  and  finally  the  remainder. 
Filter  the  varnish  through  cotton. 

Light  Parisian  Varnish  with  Coal- 
tar  Varnish  Oil.  Light  sandarac  3 
parts,  light  rosin  and  mastic  each  1, 
Venetian  turpentine  i  camphor  and 
oil  of -lavender  each  -fa,  varnish  oil  12, 
absolute  alcohol  2.  Melt  the  sandarac, 
rosin,  and  mastic  together  and  then 
add  the  turpentine.  Dissolve  the  cam- 
phor and  oil  of  lavender  in  the  abso- 
lute alcohol,  and  add  finally  to  the 
varnish. 

Light  Varnish  for  Lacquering  Photo- 
graphic Negatives.  Dammar  1  part, 
mastic  \,  sandarac  £,  chloroform  and 
varnish  oil  each  10.  Pulverize  the 
resin,  pour  the  chloroform  over  them, 
then  add  the  varnish  oil,  and  digest  the 
whole  in  a  sand-bath  until  all  are  dis- 
solved. Filter  the  varnish  through 
clean  cotton  and  keep  it  in  well-closed 
bottles.  It  dries  very  easily. 

English  Method  of  Varnishing 
Coaches.  The  superiority  of  English 
work  is  largely  due  to  the  fact  that, 
though  the  same  materials  are  used, 
more  care  is  exercised  in  preparing  the 
varnishes,  and  greater  attention  paid  to 
preparing  the  wood-work  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  varnish. 
Pumicing.  Grind  a  smooth  face  on  a 


LACQUEKS  AND  VARNISHES. 


213 


piece  of  pumice-stone,  then  sift  some 
pulverized  pumice-stone  through  a  hair 
sieve,  and  dipping  the  ground  face  of 
the  stone  into  this  powder,  pumice  the 
panels  of  the  coach ;  then  cleanse  thor- 
oughly with  a  brush,  and  finish  them 
with  a  cloth. 

Puttying.  Before  laying  on  the 
ground  color,  all  holes,  cracks,  and  in- 
dentations must  be  puttied  up.  The 
putty  used  is  prepared  by  mixing 
white  lead,  red  lead,  umber,  and  a  lit- 
tle silver  litharge  with  thick  boiled 
linseed-oil  varnish  and  adding  a  little 
amber  varnish.  Press  the  putty  into 
the  holes  and  cracks  by  means  of  a 
wooden  spatula.  When  the  putty  is 
dry  dip  a  piece  of  pumice-stone  in  water 
and  grind  the  puttied  places  down 
so  that  they  become  even  with  the 
panels. 

Saturating  the  Panels  with  Oil.  For 
this  purpose  a  mixture  of  equal  parts 
of  Unseed  oil  and  linseed-oil  varnish  is 
used.  Pour  both  into  a  pot,  mix 
thoroughly,  make  the  mixture  boiling 
hot,  and  then  saturate  the  panels. 
When  the  first  coat  is  thoroughly 
soaked  in,  repeat  the  operation,  and 
then  allow  it  to  dry  thoroughly. 

Laying  on  the  Ground.  The  ground 
color  is  prepared  by  rubbing  1500  parts 
of  white  lead,  66  parts  of  red  lead,  16 
parts  of  litharge,  and  33  parts  of  burnt 
umber  with  oil  of  turpentine,  and  di- 
luting it  with  amber  lac  varnish.  Do 
not  lay  on  the  ground  color  too  thick 
at  one  time,  but  apply  several  thin 
coats.  Care  should  also  be  had  that 
the  color  shows  no  lustre ;  should  this 
be  the  case  add  some  oil  of  turpentine. 

Pumicing  the  Ground.  Moioten  two 
pieces  of  pumice-stone  with  water,  and 
rub  them  against  each  other  until  they 
have  a  smooth  surface  ;  use  one  of  them 
for  pumicing,  dipping  it  frequently  in 
water.  The  pumicing  must  be  done  in 
a  circular  direction,  so  that  no  place 
remains  untouched.  The  color  adhering 
to  the  pumice-stone  is  removed  by 
rubbing  with  the  other  piece  after  both 
have  been  dipped  in  water.  While 
pumicing  wash  the  panels  frequently 
with  a  large,  wet  sponge,  and  finally- 
dry  them  Avith  a  white  linen  cloth. 

Laying  on  the  Paint.  Proceed  in 
the  same  manner  as  for  ground,  with 
the  exception  that,  if  the  color  is 


light,  pale  amber  lac  varnish  must 
be  used. 

First  Pumicing  of  the  Paint.  Pul- 
verize some  pumice-stone  and  pass  the 
powder  through  a  hair  sieve.  Roll  a 
piece  of  well-fulled  felt  and  tie  it  to 
prevent  its  unrolling  during  pumicing. 
Then,  with  the  felt  moistened  with 
water  and  dipped  into  the  sifted  pumice- 
stone  powder,  pumice  the  paint  as 
smooth  as  possible,  rubbing  always 
with  a  circular  motion. 

Second  Pumicing  of  the  Paint.  Cal- 
cine pumice-stone  by  placing  it  on  a 
coal  fire,  then  rub  it  to  a  fine  powder 
with  water  upon  a  stone,  and  allow  it 
to  dry.  Then  rub  it  very  fine  once 
more,  and  with  a  piece  of  felt,  but  not 
rolled  together  as  before,  moistened 
and  dipped  into  the  powder,  rub  in 
every  direction  until  a  glossy  surface 
results. 

Third  Pumicing  of  the  Paint.  For 
this  purpose  white  prepared  buck's 
horn  is  used.  The  work  is  done  with  a 
piece  of  felt  moistened  and  dipped  in  in 
the  same  manner  as  for  the  second 
pumicing.  The  paint  is  then  cleansed 
by  washing  with  a  sponge  and  water, 
dried  with  a  soft  linen  cloth,  and  finally 
rubbed  with  a  piece  of  chamois,  until 
the  paint  has  a  mirror-like  lustre. 

Laying  on  the  Lac  Varnish.  In  do- 
ing this  the  following  rules  must  be  ob- 
served : 

1.  Use   only  the  best  brushes,   and 
apply  the  lacquer  in  long,  perpendicular 
strokes,   taking  care  that  the  coat  is 
everywhere  of  equal  thickness. 

2.  The  lacquer  must  be  applied  cold, 
and  the  second  coat  only  laid  on  after 
the  first  is  thoroughly  dry. 

3.  Lacquering  should  only  be  done 
in  a  room  protected  from  dust  and  ver- 
min ;  when  the  lacquer  is  no   longer 
sticky  the  carriage  may  be  brought  into 
the  air. 

4.  When    the    carriage    has    been 
placed  in  the  sun,  it  must  be  frequently 
turned,  so  that  the  sun  does  not  beat 
too  steadily  against  one  place. 

5.  The  lacquer  should  be  contained 
in  a  wide-mouthed   vessel  so  that  the 
brush   can   be  dipped   into  it  without 
hindrance.     Do  not  take  too  much  of  it 
on  the  brush  ;  after  dipping  in,  turn  the 

I  brush    several    times,    and    strike    it 
1  against  the  side  of  the  vessel. 


214 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


6.  Prepare  your  own  lacquer,  for 
which  several  tested  receipts  will  be 
found  below,  or  buy  it  only  from  a  well- 
known  firm. 

Polishing  the  Lacquer.  Use  a  piece 
of  very  soft,  clean  felt.  Dip  it  first  in  a 
little  olive  oil  and  then  in  prepared 
white  buck's  horn,  and  rub  the  lacquer 
until  it  has  a  lustre  equal  to  a  ground 
mirror  plate  ;  and  finally  rub  it  with  a 
soft  linen  or  silk  cloth  dipped  in  fine 
starch  flour. 

Ordinary  Body  Carriage  Lacquer. 
Boil  for  4  hours  2  parts  of  the  best 
African  copal,  7  parts  of  clarified  lin- 
seed oil,  and  8  parts  of  turpentine.  Mix 
thoroughly  and  strain.  On  the  other 
hand,  boil  as  usual,  2  parts  of  the  best 
gum  anime,  5  parts  of  clarified  linseed 
oil,  and  7  parts  of  turpentine.  Strain 
while  hot,  and  put  it  into  the  pot  used 
for  preparing  the  copal  varnish.  Mix 
2  parts  of  the  anime  varnish  with  one 
of  copal  varnish;  it  will  dry  quicker 
and  harder  than  the  best  body  copal 
varnish,  and  will  polish  very  soon. 

Quick-drying  Body  Copal  Varnish. 
Boil  200  parts  of  best  copal,  500  parts 
of  clarified  linseed  oil,  6  parts  of  dry 
sugar  of  lead,  and  800  parts  of  turpen- 
tine until  viscid,  and  then  strain.  Boil 
in  another  pot  200  parts  of  gum  anime, 
500  parts  of  clarified  linseed  oil,  6  parts 
of  sulphate  of  zinc ;  strain  while  hot, 
and  mix  equal  parts  of  the  two  var- 
nishes. This  varnish  will  dry  in  6  to 
7  hours  in  winter,  and  in  3  to  4  in  sum- 
mer. 

Neil's  Carriage  Lacquers.  I.  Melt  2 
parts  of  best  copal,  add  gradually  10 
parts  of  clarified  linseed  oil,  boil  until 
viscid,  then  reduce  it  with  6  parts  of 
oil  of  turpentine,  and  filter. 

II.  Melt  2  parts  of  gum  anime,  add 
5  parts  of  clarified  linseed  oil,  boil  until 
viscid,  reduce  with  7  parts  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine, and  filter.  The  two  lacquers 
can  be  used  either  bv  themselves  or,  in 
case  a  quick-drying  lacquer  is  required, 
mixed  in  equal  parts. 


LEATHER:  TANNING,  AND  DYEING, 

INCLUDING  FURS,  ETC. 

New  Tanning  Process.  According 
to  the  process  patented  by  J.  &  C.  Bnl- 
latschano,  and  H.  Trenck,  of  Berlin,  the 


hides  are  treated  with  the  following 
fluids:  For  solution  No.  1,  20  to  30 
parts  of  chromate  of  alumina  are  dis- 
solved in  20  to  30  of  wood  vinegar,  and 
diluted  with  water  to  1000  parts.  For 
solution  No.  2,  a  concentrated  solution 
of  tartar  is  compounded  with  some  am- 
monio-nickel  chloride  dissolved  in  am- 
monia. The  skins,  carefully  freed  from 
lime,  are  then  placed  in  a  mixture  of  2 
parts  of  the  first  and  1  of  the  second 
solution,  18  to  21  days  being  sufficient 
for  thick  bullock  hides. 

Quick  Tanning  Process.  The  hides 
are  subjected  to  the  ordinary  treatment 
in  running  water,  and  then  placed  in  a 
fulling  trough  hermetically  closed. 
The  water  in  the  trough  contains  to 
every  100  pounds  of  hides  weighed  as 
taken  from  the  water,  a  solution  of  30 
pounds  of  divi-divi,  20  pounds  of  bark 
of  oak  root,  30  pounds  of  alum,  65 
pounds  of  acidulated  barley  meal,  and 
1  pound  of  sulphate  of  copper.  The 
hides  in  the  fulling  trough  are  fre- 
quently turned  for  24  hours,  and  then 
brought  together  with  the  tanning  fluid 
into  an  ordinary  vat,  where  for  15  to  20 
days  they  are  taken  out  daily  and  then 
put  back  again.  After  the  expiration 
of  this  time  they  are  put  in  tan  in  an 
ordinary  pit,  where  they  remain  15  to 
30  days,  when  they  are  finished.  In 
place  of  divi-divi  and  bark  of  oak  root 
other  materials  containing  tannin  may 
be  used,  and  sulphate  of  alumina  may 
be  substituted  for  alum,  and  sulphate 
of  zinc,  sulphate  of  ammonia,  or  other 
sulphates  for  sulphate  of  copper,  the 
characteristic  feature  of  this  process  be- 
ing the  use  of  the  tannin  and  alum  at 
the  same  time  and  in  presence  of  the 
sulphate  of  copper. 

Manufacture  of  Calf  Kid,  in  Phila- 
delphia. Choice  skins  only  can  be 
used.  From  6  to  10  pounds  is  the  most 
suitable  weight,  although  some  manu- 
facturers turning  out  a  heavier  article, 
use  skins  weighing  as  much  as  18 
pounds.  The  skins,  whether  green  or 
salted,  are  soaked,  according  to  the 
season  of  the  year,  for  12  or  14  hours,  a 
few  hours  more  in  winter  and  less  in 
summer,  this  depending  entirely  on 
the  condition  of  the  skins  and  the  tem- 
perature of  the  water.  They  are  then 
"stretched,"  when  they  are  again 
soaked  for  1  to  2  hours,  and  are  then 


LEATHER,  TANNING,  DYEING,  ETC. 


215 


ready  for  liming.  The  skins,  as  a 
general  rule,  are  first  placed  in  old 
lime  for  at  least  1  to  2  days,  and  then 
in  fresh  lime  for  about  6"  days.  For 
preparing  the  fresh  lime-bath  3  bushels 
of  lime  are  taken  to  12  dozen  of  skins. 
The  skins,  when  coming  from  the  lime- 
bath,  are  depilated  and  thrown  into 
fresh  water  in  order  to  wash  out  the 
lime.  They  are  then  fleshed.  The 
well-known  ooze,  consisting  of  dog  dung 
mixed  with  pigeon  dung,  is  then  pre- 
pared. Opinions  differ  as  regards  the 
quantity  of  ooze  to  be  used,  every  manu- 
facturer being  guided  by  his  own  ex- 
perience and  judgment.  The  skins 
remain  in  the  ooze  from  30  minutes  to 
2  hours,  when  they  are  smoothed  and 
then  thrown  into  a  mixture  of  bran  and 
water,  where  they  remain  for  24  hours. 
They  are  then  taken  out,  washed  and 
cleansed  from  all  adhering  particles  of 
bran,  and  scraped.  The  skins  are  now 
ready  for  the  aluming.  For  a  dozen 
skins  take  2i  pounds  of  alum,  about  13 
to  14  ounces  of  salt,  the  yelks  of  24 
eggs,  and  2V  pounds  of  flour;  mix  all 
thoroughly  together,  throw  the  skins 
into  the  mixture,  and  let  them  lie  in  it 
over  night.  They  are  then  hung  up  to 
dry  in  the  air,  after  which  they  are 
stretched  and  pared  down  to  the  desired 
thickness.  They  are  again  dried  in  the 
air  to  prepare  them  for  the  second  bath, 
consisting  of  eggs  and  salt,  and  again 
stretched,  when  they  are  ready  for  dye- 
ing. This  is  done  with  a  preparation 
of  a  bichromate  salt,  urine,  logwood, 
and  sulphuric  acid.  They  are  again 
hung  up  and  dried,  smoothed,  and 
finally  ironed,  after  which  they  are 
oiled  with  prepared  neats-foot  oil  and 
rubbed  with  caoutchouc  to  remove  the 
oil,  which  finishes  the  work,  4  to  6 
weeks  being  required  to  prepare  such  a 
skin. 

To  Depilate  Hides.  The  sulphide 
of  sodium  sometimes  fails  to  entirely 
remove  the  epidermis,  causing  ugly 
stains  on  the  leather.  In  such  case 
treat  the  skin,  imperfectly  depilated, 
with  milk  of  lime,  which  quickly  re- 
moves all  traces  of  the  epidermis. 

Currier's  Black  Gloss.  Eitner  gives 
the  following  receipt  for  preparing  a 
gloss  for  oiled  leather,  especially  for 
corned  and  smooth  calf-skins:  Pour  1 
quart  of  alcohol  of  95  per  cent,  over  i 


pound  of  ruby  shellac,  close  the  flask 
hermetically,  let  it  stand   in  a  warm 

§lace  for  2  or  3  days,  shaking  it  every 
ay,  until  the  shellac  is  dissolved.  Then 
dissolve  1  ounce  of  dry  Castile  soap  in 
i  pint  of  warm  alcohol  of  95  per  cent., 
add  to  it  li  ounces  of  glycerine,  shake 
thoroughly,  and  then  add  this  mixture 
to  the  solution  of  shellac.  To  give  to  it 
a  beautiful  black  color,  dissolve  U 
drachms  of  aniline  black  soluble  iu 
1  gill  of  alcohol,  add  this  to  the  other 
mixture,  close  the  flask  hermetically, 
shake  thoroughly,  and  let  the  mixture 
stand  in  a  warm  place  for  14  days  be- 
fore using  it. 

Heating  the  Liquor  in  Tanning. 
Hot  liquor  should  never  be  used  in  tan- 
ning. Liquors  of  70°  to  80°  F.  may  be 
used  without  harm  in  the  last  stages, 
when  the  leather  is  completely  tanned. 
There  has  always  been  a  doubt  whether 
warm  liquors  improve  the  quality  of 
the  leather,  it  being  possible  that"  the 
process  of  tanning  is  somewhat  facili- 
tated thereby.  The  strength  of  the 
liquors  and  their  frequent  use  facilitate 
tanning  and  increase  the  weight. 

Jfeinzerling's  Quick  Method  of  Tnn~ 
ning.  The  cost  of  production  with  this 
process  is  claimed  to  be  20  to  25  per 
cent,  cheaper  than  with  the  use  of  tan, 
and  only  3  days  are  required  for  tan- 
ning light  hides  and  5  for  heavier  ones. 
The  process  (patented  in  Germany)  is 
as  follows:  The  green  hides  are  depi- 
lated and  swelled  in  the  usual  manner. 
They  are  then  brought  into  a  solution  of 
bichromate  of  potassium,  or  bichromate 
of  sodium,  or  bichromate  of  magnesium 
and  alum,  or  sulphate  of  aluminium  and 
chloride  of  soda,  and  allowed  to  remain 
in  it  for  a  shorter  or  longer  time,  accord- 
ing to  the  kind  of  hides.  Instead  of 
placing  the  skins  directly  in  this  solu- 
tion, they  may  first  be  brought  into  a 
5  to  10  per  cent,  solution  of  alum  to 
which  some  zinc  dust  or  sheet  zinc  cut 
up  in  shavings  has  been  added.  The 
action  of  the  zinc  upon  the  alum  pro- 
duces amorphous  alumina  which  is  pre- 
cipitated upon  the  fibres.  After  the 
skins  have  remained  in  the  alum  solu- 
tion for  a  shorter  or  longer  time,  accord- 
ing to  their  condition,  they  are  brought 
into  one  of  the  first-mentioned  solutions, 
its  degree  of  concentration  depending 
on  the  nature  of  the  skins  to  be  tanned. 


216 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


After  remaining  in  it  for  a  few 
few  percent,  of  ferrocyanide  of  potassium 
is  added,  although  this  may  be  done  in 
the  commencement  of  the  operation. 
For  many  varieties  of  leather  the  addi- 
tion of  ferrocyanide  of  potassium  is  omit- 
ted, but  for  upper  leather,  to  be  black- 
ened, this  treatment  is  very  suitable. 

To  fix  the  tannin  on  the  skins  thus 
treated,  they  are  soaked  for  a  short 
time  in  a  solution  either  of  chloride  of 
barium  or  acetate  of  lead,  or  of  soap, 
and  are  then  dried  in  the  ordinary 
manner. 

The  smoothed  skins,  while  yet  moist, 
can  be  oiled  in  the  same  manner  as 
tanned  leather.  The  oil  may  be  worked 
in,  or  the  skins  can  be  submerged  for 
some  time  in  stearine,  paraffine,  chry- 
sene,  naphtha,  or  similar  substances, 
previously  dissolved  in  benzine,  photo- 
gene,  etc.  It  is  well  to  add  some  car- 
bolic acid  or  thymol  to  the  solution. 

Boegel's  Process  of  Quick  Tanning. 
The  green  hides  are  depilated  and 
soaked  in  the  usual  manner.  They  are 
then  placed  in  a  solution  of  any  vege- 
table tannin  or  a  solution  containing  a 
mixture  of  several  vegetable  kinds  of 
tannin.  To  this  are  added  acetate  of 
alumina,  chloride  of  soda,  and  picric 
acid,  in  alternate  smaller  or  larger 
quantities,  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  skins.  As  an  average,  50  pounds 
of  acetate  of  alumina,  10  pounds  of  chlo- 
ride of  soda,  and  a  like  quantity  of 
picric  acid  are  used  to  200  pounds  of 
vegetable  tannin.  This  tanning  fluid 
produces  calf  leather  in  14  days,  kip 
leather  in  3  to  4  weeks,  bullock  leather 
in  5  to  6  weeks,  sole  leather  in  6  to  8 
weeks;  the  quality  of  the  different 
kinds  of  leather  being  such  that  they 
cannot  be  distinguished  from  leather 
tanned  in  the  ordinary  manner. 

Jungsch  lager's  Quick  Process  of  Tan- 
ning. The  green  hides  are  placed  in 
a  solution  of  water-glass  of  4°  to  5° 
Beaume,  and  worked  in  it  from  time 
to  time  until  the  hair  can  be  removed. 
They  are  then  placed  in  a  solution  of 
2  parts  of  alum,  0.6  of  common  salt,  a 
like  quantity  of  sulphate  of  copper, 
and  0.2  of  sulphate  of  zinc  in  100  of 
water.  During  the  5  days  the  skins 
are  allowed  to  remain  in  this  solution 
it  is  concentrated  more  and  more,  and 
finally  brought  into  the  most  concen- 


trated form,  consisting  of  10  parts  of 
aluni,  3  each  of  common  salt  and  sul- 
phate of  copper,  and  1  of  sulphate  of 
zinc.  The  skins  remain  for  8  days  in 
this  last  solution,  are  then  dried  at  70° 
to  85°  F.,  and  saturated  with  tallow, 
stearine,  etc.,  at  95°  to  110°  F.  The 
oiled  skins  are  now  brought  into  a  so- 
lution of  soap  compounded  with  soda, 
in  order  to  fix  the  metallic  salts  and  to 
partly  saponify  the  fat.  They  are  finally 
finished  in  the  same  manner  as  tanned 
leather. 

New  Process  of  Depilating  Hides. 
The  hides  are  placed  in  a  solution  pre- 
pared by  mixing  together  dilute  solu- 
tions of  ammonia  and  sulphurous  acid. 

Woolly  hides  are  coated  on  the  flesh 
side  with  a  dough  made  of  potter's  clay 
and  the  above  mixture.  In  place  of 
ammonia  the  salts  of  ammonia  may 
be  used. 

To  Prepare  Transparent  Leather. 
The  cleansed  skin  is  repeatedly  coated 
with  a  mixture  of  100  parts  of  glycer- 
ine, 0.2  of  salicylic  acid,  0.2  of  picric 
acid,  and  2.5  of  borax;  then  nearly 
dried  and  impregnated  in  a  dark  room 
writh  a  solution  of  bichromate  of  potas- 
sium ;  then  completely  dried  and  coated 
on  both  sides  with  shellac  varnish. 

To  Preserve  and  Water-proof  8kins. 
Two  baths  are  used :  A.  Compound  10 
pounds  of  drying  oil  (linseed  oil)  with 
2  pounds  of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid ; 
neutralize  with  soda  and  wash  with 
water.  To  the  heated  mass  add  a  thick 
solution  of  12  ounces  of  glue  to  which 
has  been  added,  to  make  the  glue  in- 
soluble, i  ounce  of  oxalic  acid  or  If 
ounces  of  salicylic  acid. 

Reduce  the  compound  before  using  it 
with  fat  or  oil,  or,  where  the  odor  is 
not  annoying,  with  turpentine  or  tar 
oil ;  and,  when  the  leather  requires  to 
be  less  dense,  with  ethereal  oils,  alco- 
hol, or  water. 

B.  Dissolve  10  pounds  of  glue  or  gela- 
tine in  250  gallons  of  water,  compound 
the  solution  with  6V  pounds  of  oxalic 
acid  or  20  pounds  of  salicylic  acid,  and 
finally  mix  it  with  100  pounds  of  solu- 
tion of  acetate  of  aluminium.  The  grain 
side  of  the  leather  is  coated  with  the 
mixture  A,  dried,  and  then  immersed 
in  B ;  again  dried,  then  tanned  in  Bal- 
latschano's  and  Trench's  tanning  bath 
(see  above),  and  dried.  This  process 


LEATHER,  TANNING,  DYEING,  ETC. 


217 


may  be  repeated.  When  dry,  the  leather 
is  placed  in  cold  water,  whereby  sub- 
stances not  absorbed  are  brought  to  the 
surface  of  the  leather,  from  which  they 
must  be  removed. 

Textile  substances,  wood,  paper,  etc., 
can  in  a  similar  manner  be  made  water- 
proof, durable,  and  flexible. 

To  Prepare  Calf  Leather  with  a  White 
Flesh-side  Smooth  as  a  Mirror.  The 
skins  are  tanned  with  sumach,  dried, 
and  pared.  They  are  then  fulled  very 
soft,  dyed  on  the  grain  side,  racked, 
stretched  over  a  frame,  and  dried. 
When  the  grained  side  is  finished  the 
flesh  side  is  pumiced,  coated  with  the 
white  color,  and  glass-papered.  For 
the  white  color  for  a  dozen  skins  2 
pounds  of  Spanish  white  and  12  ounces 
of  white  tallow  soap  are  stirred  together 
with  the  white  of  12  eggs  and  2J  gal- 
lons of  water. 

To  Preserve  the  Yelks  of  Eggs  used  in 
Tawing  Glove  Leather.  Rub  fine  in  a 
mortar  or  upon  a  stone  1  pound  of  yelks 
of  eggs,  i  ounce  of  common  salt,  and 
I  ounce  of  starch.  The  mixture,  on 
thickening,  is  poured  into  moulds  and 
dried  in  the  air.  Yelks  of  eggs  thus  pre- 
pared answer  the  same  purpose  as  fresh. 

To  Preserve  Hair  in  a  Tannery.  Pour 
salt  water,  or  brine  already  used,  over  it 
and  store  it  in  pits  set  out  with  stones. 

To  Improve  Hides  and  Skins.  The 
depilated  and  cleansed  skins  are  placed 
in  a  fluid  compounded  with  glycerine, 
and  allowed  to  remain  until  thoroughly 
saturated.  This  will  require  from  1  to 
4  clays,  according  to  the  thickness  of 
the  skins.  They  are  then  taken  out, 
freed  from  the*  excess  of  glycerine, 
dried,  and  stored  away  for  future  use. 
Skins  moderately  tanned  can  also  be 
subjected  to  the  same  operation.  Skins 
thus  prepared  can  be  advantageously 
used  for  machine  belts,  straps,  etc. 

DYEING  LEATHER.  Azure  on  Tawed 
White  Leather.  Rub  Berlin  blue  with 
some  sour  milk,  and  let  it  stand  on  a 
plate  for  several  hours ;  then  add  some 
dilute  sulphuric  acid  and  sugar  water, 
stir  the  whole  thoroughly,  and  then 
apply  the  color  repeatedly,  by  means 
of  a 'sponge,  to  the  leather  stretched 
over  a  frame.  The  leather  should  be 
drawn  over  the  stretcher  every  time 
before  a  new  coat  is  laid  on. 

Black  on  Leather.     Sixty -six  parts  of 


iron  filings  and  33  parts  of  bruised  gall- 
nuts  are  boiled  in  2000  parts  of  sharp 
wine  vinegar  until  reduced  to  half  the 
quantity.  Strain  the  liquor  and  apply 
it  to  the  skins. 

Blue  on  Leather.  Moisten  the  leather 
with  alum  dissolved  in  urine  and  dye 
with  strained  juice  of  corn-flowers.* 

Red  on  Morocco.  Pulverize  the 
woody  parts  of  lac,  add  gall-nuts, 
alum,  and  some  cochineal ;  boil  these 
ingredients  in  water  until  a  red  liquor 
is  obtained.  Apply  this  liquor  to  the 
leather  and  finish  by  giving  it  a  coat 
of  a  strained  decoction  of  bruised  white 
gall-nuts  in  water. 

Saffron-yellow  on  Leather.  Boil  250 
parts  of  fine  shavings  of  sour  barberry 
root  and  15  parts  of  pulverized  turmeric 
in  water,  in  an  earthen  pot.  Strain  the 
liquor  through  linen  and  add  a  few 
drops  of  aqua-fortis. 

Dyeing  of  Chamois  Skins.  The  colors 
are  applied  with  a  brush. 

Black.  Apply,  first,  a  strong  decoc- 
tion of  logwood,  next  dilute  solution  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  and,  finally,  a  decoc- 
tion of  logwood.  Soap  water  and  pot- 
ash lye  are  used  to  give  gloss  to  the  color. 

Green.  Use  buckthorn  berries  and 
as  much  alum  as  is  required  to  pro- 
duce the  desired  tint. 

Gray.  Apply  lampblack  and  whis- 
key, dry  the  skin,  and  brush  off  the 
excess  of  dry  color. 

Tan.  Use  decoction  of  oak-bark, 
and,  according  to  the  lighter  or  darker 
shade  desired,  add  more  or  less  pulver- 
ized brown-red. 

Yellow.  Mix  light  or  dark  ochre 
with  water. 

Yellowish-brown.  Mix  brown-red 
and  umber  with  water. 

Dyes  for  Ordinary  Tawed  Leather. 
Blue.  Dissolve  40  parts  of  Berlin  blue 
and  8  parts  of  gum-Arabic  in  a  little 
water,  strain  the  fluid  through  a  cloth, 
and  then  add  sufficient  water  to  pro- 
duce the  desired  tint. 

Camel-brown.  Boil  2  pounds  of  oak 
tan,  2  ounces  of  sumach,  and  1  ounce  of 
Bnizil  wood,  and  some  onion  peels  in 
water.  Apply  the  color  warm. 

Chest  mi  t-brown.  Boil  1  pound  of 
ground  logwood,  2  pounds  of  ground 
Brazil  wood,  1  pound  of  ground  fustic, 
and  4  ounces  of  gall-nuts  in  water. 

*  Germ., 


218 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Coffee-brown.  Boil  2  pounds  of 
ground  oak  tan  and  1  pound  of  ground 
fustic  and  some  lye  in  water.  Then 
boil  If  ounces  of  Brazil  wood  and  1 
ounce  of  ground  logwood  in  water. 
Add  gradually  of  this  to  the  first  decoc- 
tion until  the  fluid  has  assumed  a 
brown  color,  and  then  add  more  or  less 
sulphate  of  iron  dissolved  in  warm 
water,  according  as  the  tint  is  more  or 
less  dark. 

Flesh  Color.  Boil  4  ounces  of  bruised 
Avignon  berries  and  25  grains  of  pot- 
ash, and  add  gradually  decoction  of 
Brazil  wood  until  the  desired  tint  is 
obtained. 

Garnet.  Boil  4  ounce  of  Brazil  wood 
and  some  turmeric  in  water. 

Green.  Boil  10  pounds  of  ground 
fustet,  2  pounds  of  logwood,  and  a  like 
(quantity  of  fustic  in  water,  add  to  the 
infusion  4  pound  of  decoction  of  gall- 
nuts,  and  dissolve  3  ounces  of  sulphate 
of  copper  in  the  mixture. 

Another  Receipt.  Use  decoction  of 
buckthorn  berries. 

Another  Receipt.  Boil  1  pound  of 
ground  logwood,  1  ounce  each  of  onion 
peels  cut  up  and  ground  fustic,  and  2 
ounces  of  alum,  for  2  hours  in  the 
requisite  quantity  of  water. 

Lilac.  Boil  for  2  hours  12  ounces  of 
logwood,  a  little  lime  and  some  alum 
in  sufficient  water,  and  add  2  to  3 
ounces  of  decoction  of  Brazil  wood. 

Olive-green.  Boil  fustic  and  some 
bruised  gall-nuts  in  water,  and  add 
solution  of  sulphate  of  iron  until  the 
desired  tint  is  obtained. 

Orange.  Boil  sumach,  double  the  quan- 
tity of  fustic,  and  onion  peels  in  water. 

"Rose-color.  Boil  for  1  hour,  15 
grains  of  cochineal,  cut  fine,  in  1  pound 
of  water,  and  add  2  ounces  of  decoction 
of  logwood  and  6  drops  of  hydrochloric 
acid. 

Scarlet.  Boil  1  pound  of  logwood,  8 
ounces  of  Brazil  wood,  2  ounces  of  onion 
peels,  some  common  salt,  and  alum  in 
4  gallons  of  water. 

Violet.  Mix  8  ounces  of  decoction  of 
logwood  with  2  ounces  of  decoction  of 
Brazil  wood,  and  dissolve  li  ounces  of 
alum  in  the  fluid. 

Yellow  (Dark).  Boil  8  ounces  of 
Avignon  berries  finely  pulverized,  i 
ounce  of  potash,  and  some  fustic  with 
water. 


Yellow  (Pale).  Decoction  of  quer- 
citron or  fustic. 

Dyes  for  Kid  Leather.  Azure.  Dis- 
solve 2  ounces  of  prussiate  of  potash  in 
1£  gallons  of  tepid  water,  brush  the  so- 
lution over  the  skin  until  it  is  perme- 
ated, and  then  give  a  light  coat  of  weak 
solution  of  nitrate  of  iron. 

Black.  Boil  3  pounds  of  logwood, 
and  8  ounces  to  1  pound  of  fustic  shav- 
ings in  1  \  gallons  of  water,  filter,  apply 
the  liquor  to  the  leather,  and  give  a 
coat  of  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron.  The 
black  skins  then  receive  a  coat  of  fat  on 
the  grain  side. 

Brown.  I.  Mix  25  pounds  of  decoc- 
tion of  willow  bark,  8  pounds  of  decoc- 
tion of  elder  bark,  1  pound  of  decoction 
of  logwood,  and  some  indigo-carmine. 

II.  Mix  35  pounds  of  decoction  of 
willow  bark,  8|  pounds  of  decoction  of 
fustet,  and  S£  ounces  of  logwood.  - 

Brown  {Dark}.  I.  Mix  8  pounds  of 
decoction  of  fustic,  2  pounds  of  infusion 
of  huckleberries,  4  ounces  of  decoc- 
tion of  logwood,  and  some  indigo-car- 
mine. 

II.  Mix  17i  pounds  of  decoction  of 
fustet,  44  pounds  of  decoction  of  fustic, 
13^  pounds  of  decoction  of  Brazil  wood, 
and  54  pounds  of  decoction  of  logwood. 

III.  Mix  8|  pounds  of  decoction   of 
birch  bark,  4V  pounds  of  decoction  of 
willow  bark,  4V  ounces  of  infusion  of 
elderberries,  and  8  grains    of  indigo- 
carmine. 

Brown  (Light).  I.  Mix  13  pounds 
of  decoction  of  fustic,  a  like  quantity  of 
decoction  of  fustet,  2  pounds  of  decoc- 
tion of  Brazil  wood,  and  1  pound  of 
decoction  of  logwood. 

II.  Mix  8J  pounds  of  decoction  of 
ground  willow  bark,  4V  pounds  of  de- 
coction of  fustet,  2  pounds  of  decoction 
of  fustic,  and  4  pound  of  decoction  of 
logwood. 

III.  Mix  174  pounds  of  decoction  of 
fustic,  8|  pounds  of  decoction  of  Brazil 
wood,  and  44  pounds  of  decoction  of 
logwood. 

English  Gray.  Boil  willow  bark 
with  strong  solution  of  copperas. 

French  Green.  Dissolve  1  ounce  of 
alum  in  1  gallon  of  water,  which  fur- 
nishes the  mordant  required  for  dyeing. 
The  dye  consists  of  a  solution  of  1 
pound  of  indigo-carmine  in  3£  gallons 
of  boiling  water,  and  10  pounds  of  strong 


LEATHER,  TANNING,  DYEING,  ETC. 


219 


decoction  of  fustic,  and  2  pounds  of  de- 
coction of  logwood. 

Gray.     Mix  17  i  pounds  of  decoction  j 
of  willow  bark  and  £  pound  of  decoc- 
tion of  logwood. 

Gray-brotrn.  Mix  3-5  pounds  of  de- 
coction of  willow  bark,  2  pounds  of  in- 
fusion of  elderberries,  and  $  pound  of 
decoction  of  Brazil  wood. 

Gray-green.  Mix  13  pounds  of  de- 
coction of  willow  bark,  4  pounds  of 
decoction  of  fustic,  and  i  pound  of  de- 
coction of  logwood. 

Gray  Stone  Color.  Mix  \7\  pounds 
of  decoction  of  willow  bark  and  2 
pounds  of  decoction  of  logwood. 

Green  Stone  Color.  Mix  8?  pounds 
of  decoction  of  willow  bark  with  a  like 
quantity  of  decoction  of  fustic  and  1 
pound  of  decoction  of  logwood. 

Green.  (Light).  Mix  17>  pounds  of 
decoction  of  fustic  and  2  pounds  of  de- 
coction of  logwood. 

Green  (Dark).  Mix  25  pounds  of 
decoction  of  fustic  with  a  like  quantity 
of  decoction  of  logwood. 

Olive-brown.  Mix  10  pounds  of  de- 
coction of  fustet,  6  pounds  of  decoction 
of  fustic,  2  pounds  of  decoction  of  Brazil 
wood,  and  4  pounds  of  decoction  of  log- 
wood. 

Orange-broivn.  Boil  8  ounces  of 
ground  fustic  and  4  ounce  of  ground 
Brazil  wood  in  14  quarts  of  water. 

Orange-red.  Mix  4  pounds  of  de- 
coction of  willow  bark  with  a  like 
quantity  of  decoction  of  fustet. 

Pensee  or  Violet-blue.  The  usual 
mordant  is  used  with  1  pound  of  decoc- 
tion of  logwood  and  i  pound  of  decoc- 
tion of  Brazil  wood. 

/Silver-gray.  Mix  a  decoction  of 
weld  with  some  infusion  of  bilberries. 

Straw  Color.    Use  a  more  or  less  con- 
centrated decoction  of  weld,  according  \ 
to  the  tint  desired. 

Apparatus  and  Process  for  Dyeing 
and  Pattern  ing  A  n  imal  Skins.  Woolly- 
skins  to  be  dyed  are  hooked  with  the  ! 
flesh  side  down  upon  stretching  boards  ' 
a,  Fig.  38,  provided  on  the  edges  with 
pins,  and  stretch  by  tightening  the 
screws  s  acting  upon  the  levers  c.  Cop- 
per paus  with  a  double  bottom,  between 
which  steam  is  introduced,  receive  the 
dye-bath,  which  must  be  somewhat 
heated  and  as  concentrated  as  possible. 
On  the  inner  sides  of  the  pans  are  ar- 


ranged   movable    copper  knees,  upon 
which  the  stretching  boards  are  placed 


Fig.  39. 


Fig.  38. 

in  such  a  manner  that  only  the  wool  of 

the  skins  is  immersed  in  the  bath.     The 

dyed  skins  are  rinsed,  dried,  moistened 

with  salt   water,  and   stretched.     For 

patterning    the    skins 

models  as  represented 

by  Fig.   39  are  used. 

They     are     provided 

with    a    high     ledge 

through  which  runs  a 

strap  with  which  they 

are    fastened    to    the 

stretching  board  and 

pressed  against  the  wool.     The  models 

protect  the  wool  enclosed  in  them  in 

the  dyeing  and  rinsing  process. 

To  Dye  Rabbit  Skins  Black.  (For 
IQQ  skins.)  First  Bath:  Carbonate  of 
soda  10  pounds.  Second  Bath  :  Pure 
extract  of  logwood  17  pounds,  catechu 
10  pounds,  blue  vitriol  2  pounds.  Place 
the  skins  first  in  the  carbonate  of  soda 
solution,  rinse  them,  and  then  place 
them  for  2  hours  in  the  second  bath 
before  the  blue  vitriol  is  added.  Dur- 
ing this  operation  the  temperature  of 
the  bath  should  be  kept  exactly  at  85° 
F.  The  skins  are  then  taken  out,  cooled 
off,  and  replaced  in  the  bath,  now  heated 
to  95°  F.,  and  this  operation,  after  the 
blue  vitriol  has  been  added,  is  repeated, 
increasing  the  temperature  every  time 
10°  F.  up  to  120°  F.  The  skins  are 
then  thoroughly  rinsed,  and  will  have 
a  beautiful  and  durable  color. 

To  Dye  Sheepskins  Brown.  (For  10 
pounds  of  skins.)  Place  the  skins  over 
night  in  water  heated  from  115°  to  140° 
F.  and  containing  sufficient  ammonia  to 
make  them  smell  of  it.  Take  them  out 
the  next  day  and  wash  them.  Now  ex- 
haust 2  pounds  of  logwood  by  boiling 
it  several  times  and  dilute  the  liquor 
to  5  gallons.  Place  the  skins  in  the 


220 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


bath  for  3  hours,  then  take  them  out 
and  let  them  drain  ofi".  Then  place 
them  in  a  bath  of  wood  vinegar  of  5°  B. 
for  1  hour,  and  move  them  occasionally. 
Then  take  them  out,  rinse,  and  dye  them 
in  a  fresh  bath  heated  to  140°  F.  and 
containing  1J  ounces  of  Bismarck  brown; 
take  them  out,  let  the  liquor  drain  off, 
rinse,  and  then  dry  the  skins  at  a  moder- 
ate heat  and  rather  slowly.  It  is  best 
to  lay  the  skins  flesh  side  upon  a  board, 
as  this  will  prevent  shrinking.  The 
skins,  when  dry,  must  undergo  further 
treatment  to  render  them  soft  and  plia- 
ble. For  this  purpose  mix  bran  to  a 
homogeneous  paste  with  tepid  water, 
and  to  every  2i  gallons  add  3i  ounces 
of  glycerine  of  28°  B.  This  mixture  is 
applied  to  the  skins,  and  when  dry 
brushed  off  again.  The  yelks  of  10 
eggs  mixed  with  li  gallons  of  water  and 
3i  ounces  of  Epsom  salts  can  be  substi- 
tuted for  the  bran. 

Process  of  Dyeing  naturally  White 
Skins,  or  Skins  with  naturally  White 
Points,  various  Shades  of  Brown,  leav- 
ing the  Points  White.  To  protect  the 
points  from  the  dye  cover  them  with  a 
resist-paste  made  by  mixing  with  water 
10  parts  of  gum -Arabic,  5  of  sugar  of 
lead,  10  each  of  fat  white  clay  and 
acetate  of  copper,  and  carefully  dry  the 
skins. 

The  fur  is  now  freed  from  oil  and  at 
the  same  time  dyed  brown  by  applying 
silver  litharge,  boiled  in  a  solution  of 
caustic  lime,  diluted  to  4°  B.  and  cooled 
to  75°  F.,  to  the  skins.  The  plumbic 
oxide  dissolved  in  the  milk  of  lime 
forms  with  the  sulphur  contained  in 
the  fur  an  insoluble  brown  sulphide  of 
lead,  whilst  the  excess  of  milk  of  lime 
frees  the  fur  at  the  same  time  from  oil. 

To  completely  convert  the  excess  of 
plumbic  oxide  in  the  mixture  and  on 
the  fur  into  sulphide  of  lead  the  skins 
are  placed  in  a  revolving  drum  hermeti- 
cally closed  and  treated  with  very  dilute 
ammonium  sulphydrate.  They  are  then 
brought  into  a  gallic  acid  bath,  and,  on 
neutralizing  thisAvith  lime,  brown  color- 
ing matter  is  precipitated  upon  the  fur. 

The  paste  is  now  removed  by  careful 
washing,  and  the  points,  having  been 
neither  freed  from  oil  nor  dyed,  will  be 
found  perfectly  white.  By  adding  to 
the  gallic  acid  bath  small  quantities  of 
hyposulphite  of  silver  and  nitrate  of 


bismuth  darker  tints  can  be  readily 
obtained. 

Imitation  of  Sable  Skins.  Hamster 
skins  closely  resembling  sable  have  re- 
cently been  brought  into  commerce 
from  England.  The  process  of  prepar- 
ing them  is  as  folloAvs  :  A  mordant  pre- 
pared from  1  part  of  quicklime  and  10 
of  water  is  applied  with  a  brush  to  the 
fur  side  of  the  hamster  skins  and  allowed 
to  remain  for  12  hours.  The  skin  is  then 
dyed  with  the  following  preparation- 
Pulverize  and  mix  roasted  gall-nuts  3 
pounds,  sal-ammoniac  4  ounces,  sumach 
15  ounces,  sulphide  of  antimony  13 
ounces,  verdigris  2  ounces,  iron  cinders 
10  ounces,  copper  ash  4  ounces,  and  clay 
10  ounces.  Compound  the  mixture  with 
12  gallons  of  Avater,  stirring  constantly. 
Apply  a  layer  of  this  to  the  hamster 
skins,  and  after  24  hours  place  every 
2  skins  Avith  the  fur  side  together,  let 
them  again  lie  for  24  hours,  and  then 
heat  them.  Repeat  the  whole  process 
until  the  desired  color  is  obtained.  The 
skins  are  finally  cleansed  by  reA'olving 
them  in  a  closed  cylinder  filled  Avith 
sand  and  mahogany  sawdust. 

To  Protect  Inir  af/ainxt  the  Attacks 
of  Moths.  Mix  with  the  liquor  used  for 
tanning  a  mixture  ofi  part  rectified  oil 
of  turpentine,  i  of  weak  solution  of 
carbonate  of  soda,  and  1  of  somewhat 
concentrated  decoction  of  worniAVood, 
and  proceed  as  usual.  These  pro- 
portions are  calculated  for  100  small 
skins. 

For  100  calf  or  lamb-skins,  they  being 
larger,  take  oil  of  turpentine  2  pounds, 
soda-lye  4  pounds,  and  8  pounds  of 
wormwood  decoction. 

To  Tan  Linen,  Hempen,  and  Cotton 
fabrics.  Boil  8  ounces  of  tan  in  1£ 
gallons  of  Avater  down  to  li  gallons,  and 
pour  the  liquor  Avhile  hot  upon  the 
fabric  to  be  tanned,  and  let  it  remain 
48  hours.  Then  take  out  the  fabric, 
rinse  it  in  cold  water,  and  dry.  This 
quantity  suffices  for  1  yard.  Fabrics 
thus  prepared  were  kept  in  a  damp 
cellar  for  8  months  Avithout  injury, 
Avhilo  the  same  kind  of  fabrics,  but  not 
prepared,  AA'ere  totally  ruined.  The 
process  is  especially  suitable  for  nets, 
ropes,  cordage,  sails,  wagon-covers, 
tents,  bags,  etc. 

To  Give  Leather  the  Smell  of  Russia 
Leather.  Extract  dry  birch  bark  with 


LIQUORS  AND  BEVERAGES. 


221 


alcohol.  Distil  off  the  alcohol,  pul- 
verize the  remaining  resin,  mix  it  with 
3  parts  of  calcium  hydrate,  and  distil. 
The  oil  passing  over  soon  changes  into 
a  resin  possessing  an  aromatic  odor  like 
that  of  Russia  leather,  and  dissolves 
easily  in  oils  and  alcohol. 


LIQUORS  AND  BEVERAGES:  BEER, 
BRANDY,  GIN,  WHISKEY,  WINES, 
ETC. 

Beer  Brewing.  The  fabrication  of 
beer  is  divided  into  three  principal 
operations:  1.  Fabrication  of  malt. 
2.  Preparation  of  the  liquor  containing 
the  dextrine  and  sugar ;  and  3,  the  fer- 
menting of  this  liquor. 

1.  Fabrication  of  Malt  requires  3 
operations :  a,  Steeping ;  6,  Germinat- 
ing (Couching) ;  c,  Kiln-drying. 

a.  Steeping.    The  barley  is  first  uni- 
formly moistened  in  the  steeping- vat, 
and  then  covered  with  water  4  to  6 
inches  deep.     The  light  grains  floating 
on  top  are  removed.     During  this  oper- 
ation carbonic  acid  is  evolved,  the  water 
acquiring  a  yellowish  color,  Vhile  the 
barley  absorbs  water  equal  to  about  £ 
of  its  volume,  the  increase  in  weight 
being  more  than  £.     After  24  hours  the 
water  is  drawn  off  and  replaced   by 
fresh,  this  being  repeated  3  or  4  times 
according  to  the    temperature  of  the 
air.    The  operation  is  finished  if  the 
grains    can    be   crushed  between  the 
fingers  without  exuding  in  the  form 
of  a  milky  juice.     In  steeping,  strict 
attention   must  be  paid  to  avoid  acid 
fermentation. 

b.  Germinating     (Couching}.      The 
water  being  drawn  off  the  barley  is 
allowed  to  drain  off  and  laid  upon  the 
couch  floor  of  stone  flags  in  heaps  5  to 
8  inches  high,  and  turned  every  5  or  6 
hours  to  insure  an  even  temperature 
and  uniform  germination.    The  tem- 
perature of  the  heap  should  never  be 
allowed  to  rise  above  60°  F.     When 
germination  begins  the  heap  is  piled 
up  from  7  to  14  inches  high.     The  tem- 
perature rises  from  77°  to  80°  F.,  and  the 
barley  commences  to  sweat,  which  may 
be  recognized,  if,  on  thrusting  the  hand 
into  the  heap,  it  not  only  feels  warm 
but  gets  bedewed  with  moisture.      The 
radicles  and  acrospire  begin  to  develop. 


The  latter  issues  from  the  same  end  of 
the  grain  as  the  radicle,  but  turns  over 
and  proceeds  within  the  husk  towards 
the  other  end,  and  would  there  come 
forth  as  a  green  leaf  were  its  progress 
not  arrested.  The  malting,  however, 
is  complete  before  the  acrospire  becomes* 
a  leaf.  As  soon  as  the  radicles  and 
acrospire  begin  to  grow,  the  barley,  to 
admit  air  and  check  too  rapid  develop- 
ment, is  spread  thinner  upon  the  floor, 
and  turned  over  several  times  in  the 
course  of  the  day.  As  soon  as  the  radi- 
cles have  become  H  longer  than  the 
barley,  and  are  contorted  so  that  the 
grains  hook  into  one  another,  and  the 
acrospire  is  just  beginning  to  push 
through,  the  barley  is  spread  very  thin 
on  the  floor,  and  when  it  feels  no  lon- 
ger moist,  brought  into  the  kiln. 

Kiln-drying  expels  the  moisture 
from  the  germinated  grains  and  con- 
verts the  starch  into  dextrine  and 
glucose,  and  stops  the  progress  of  germi- 
nation and  renders  the  mass  fit  for 
storage.  The  kiln  is  a  chamber  with  a 
perforated  iron  or  copper  bottom  to 
allow  the  heated  air  to  permeate 
through  the  malt,  which  is  spread  upon 
the  bottom  about  3  to  4  inches  deep. 
The  temperature  must  not  be  too  high 
at  first,  and  is  gradual  ly  increased  to,  but 
must  never  rise  above,  158°  F.  During 
the  kiln-drying  the  roots  and  acrospire  . 
of  the  barley  become  brittle  and  fall 
off,  and  are  separated  by  a  wire  sieve. 
The  barley,  by  germinating  and  kiln- 
drying,  loses  8  per  cent,  of  its  weight. 

2.  Preparation  of  the  Liquor  con- 
taining the  Dextrine  and^  Sugar  (Mitsh' 
ing).  The  object  of  this  operation  is 
to  extract  from  the  malt  the  sugar  and 
dextrine  by  means  of  water,  and  to 
convert  the  starch  into  the  same  sub- 
stances by  the  diastase.  The  beer,  be- 
sides alcohol,  must  contain  dextrine,  and 
the  action  of  the  diastase  must  therefore 
be  arrested  before  the  dextrine  is  entirely 
converted  into  sugar,  this  being  ac- 
complished by  boiiing  the  watery  solu- 
tion. The  operations  necessary  for 
gaining  beer  from  the  malt  are :  a,  the 
actual  mashing,  or  preparation  of  the 
wort;  b,  boiling  the  wort  with  hops; 
and  c,  cooling  the  boiled  wort. 

a.  Mashing.  The  malt  is  coarsely 
ground  in  a  grain-mill  and  mixed  with 
water  in  a  vat,  and  after  4  to  6  hours' 


222 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


immersion,  hot  water  is  added  to  raise 
the  temperature  to  168°  F.,  the  vat 
covered,  and  the  mash  allowed  to 
stand  for  1  to  2  hours,  when  the  clear 
wort  (wort-black)  is  drawn  off  into  a 
covered  vessel  and  the  residue  washed 
several  times  with  water. 

b.  JBoilihj  the  Wort  with  Hops.    The 
clear  wort  is  boiled  in  the  copper  to- 
gether with   the  hops.    The  albumen 
and    unchanged    starch    are    precipi- 
tated by  the  tannin  of  the  hops,  and  a 
bitter  taste  imparted  to  the  beer  and 
its  durability  augmented.      After  boil- 
ing for  several  hours  the  wort,  to  pre- 
vent acid  fermentation,   must  be  im- 
mediately cooled. 

c.  Cooling.    In  small  breweries  the 
beer  is  run  into  coolers,  but  in  larger 
establishments  refrigerators  of  various 
constructions  are  employed.  The  cooler 
is  a  large  shallow  vessel   constructed 
of  planks.     It  must  be  so  placed  that 
the  wort  can  be  cooled  as  quickly  as 
possible  to  60°  to  68°  F.      In  bring- 
ing   the  wort    in  the    cooler  the   ex- 
hausted hops  are  retained  by  the  hop- 
strainer. 

d.  Fermentation.    When  the  wort  is 
sufficiently  cooled   it  is  conveyed  into 
the  fermenting   vat.     Six   or  8   hours 
after  the  yeast  has  been  added  fermen- 
tation becomes  active.      The  tempera- 
ture of  the  fermenting  cellar  should 
not  rise  above  59°  F.    A  thin  white 
froth  appears  first  on  the  middle,  and 
spreads  gradually  over  the  whole  sur- 
face,  whose    color  gradually   changes 
into  a  yellowish -brown  by  the  action 
of  the  air.     Fermentation   is   finished 
in  5  to  8  days,  according  to  the  temper- 
ature of  the  cellar.    After  the  beer  is 
clear  it  is  drawn  off  into  barrels  in  the 
store-cellar  for  after-fermentation. 

Improved  Process  of  Brewing.  The 
malt  is  mashed  with  water  at  140  to 
158°  F.  in  a  vat  hermetically  closed 
and  provided  with  a  stirring  apparatus, 
double  bottom,  man-hole,  etc.,  whereby 
the  rnash  acquires  a  temperature  of  120° 
F.,  which  is  raised  to  1(57°  F.  by  intro- 
ducing steam  at  257°  F.  between  the 
2  bottoms  of  the  mash  tun.  The  clear 
mash  is  then  forced  by  steam  from  the 
grains  into  the  clear  mash-back  stand- 
ing higher  than  the  mash  tun.  To  dis- 
solve the  peptones,  etc.,  the  grains  are 
Bteamed  and  then  cooled  off  to  167°  to 


178°  F.  by  squirting  cold  water  over 
them,  and  the  clear  mash  is  then 
brought  back  into  the  mash  tun  in 
order  to  undergo  a  second  complete 
saccharization.  The  mash  is  then 
heated  to  212°  F.,  and,  after  resting, 
forced  into  the  hop-back. 

New  Brewing  Process.  The  mash  is 
thoroughly  worked  for  5  minutes  in 
water  at  120°  F.,  and  allowed  to  stand 
for  10  minutes.  The  supernatant  liquor 
is  then  brought  into  the  clarifying  tun, 
and  to  every  25  gallons  are  added  1 
pound  of  scalded  hops  and  £  ounce  of 
carbonate  of  lime.  The  thick  mash  re- 
maining in  the  copper  is  first  heated  to 
145°  F.,  and  then  to  170°  F.,  and  after 
saccharization  is  complete,  boiled  for  1 
hour  with  an  addition  of  2|  ounces  of 
carbonate  of  lime  to  every  2000  gallons 
of  mash ;  the  liquor  first  drawn  off  from 
the  thick  mash  is  then  added.  After 
standing  for  i  hour  the  wort  is  pumped 
into  the  pan  and  boiled  for  2  hours. 
The  hops,  previously  boiled  alone  for  2 
hours  and  cooled  off  to  190°  F.,  are 
then  added  to  the  mash,  cooled  to  the 
same  temperature.  The  wort  is  then 
pumped  *into  the  cooler,  where  2  to  2| 
ounces  of  carbonate  of  lime  are  added 
to  every  2000  gallons. 

To  prevent  fermentation  and  putre- 
faction of  the  albumen,  i  ounce  of  mag- 
nesia are  added  to  every  quart  of  the 
setting  yeast. 

Clarifying  Beer.  A  very  concen- 
trated solution  of  phosphate  of  soda  is 
first  put  into  the  wort,  and  then  gyp- 
sum or  chloride  of  calcium  and  slaked 
lime  are  added.  Instead  of  the  soda 
salt,  phosphoric  acid  or  some  soluble 
phosphate  of  lime  may  be  employed. 
This  clarifier  can  be  used  at  any  stage 
of  the  process,  either  before  or  after 
fermentation.  The  same  process  is 
also  recommended  for  other  fermented 
liquors. 

Flaxseed  Pulp  for  Clarifying  Beer. 
For  every  60  gallons  of  beer  boil  f  pint 
of  washed  flaxseed  in  1  gallon  of  water, 
replacing  the  water  lost  by  evaporation 
by  fresh.  Separate  the  pulpy  liquid 
from  the  seeds  by  straining  and  add  it 
to  the  brewing  i  hour  before  mixing 
the  hops  with  it.  When  the  latter  is 
added  the  flaxseed  pulp  coagulates, 
enclosing  the  substances  which  make 
the  beer  turbid  and  settling  with  them 


LIQUORS  AND  BEVERAGES. 


223 


on  the  bottom  of  the  boiler.  Beer  pre- 
pared in  this  way  becomes  clear  in  a 
very  short  time,  its  taste  being  not  in- 
jnred  in  any  respect. 

Brewer's  Pitch.  Light  Yellow  Pitch. 
Melt  in  an  open  iron  boiler  100  pounds 
of  pine  pitch,  and  then  add,  with  con- 
stant stirring,  5  to  6  pounds  of  caustic 
soda-lye  of  10°  B.  When  the  mass  in 
the  boiler  no  longer  rises,  and  the  for- 
mation of  bubbles  has  ceased,  the  fatty 
pitch  is  poured  into  iron  moulds  and 
allowed  to  cool. 

Brown  Pitch.  I.  Melt  in  an  open 
iron  boiler  150  pounds  of  pine  pitch 
and  50  pounds  of  red,  transparent  Amer- 
ican rosin ;  then  add  10  pounds  of  recti- 
fied heavy  rosin  oil,  stir  thoroughly, 
and  pour  into  moulds. 

II.  Composed    of    pine    pitch    100 
pounds,     red,     transparent     rosin     85 
pounds,  and  rectified  heavy  rosia  oil 

10  pounds. 

III.  Seventy-five  pounds  of  pine  pitch, 
140  pounds  of  red,  transparent  rosin, 
and  12  pounds  of  rectified  heavy  rosin 
oil. 

IV.  Pine  pitch  50  pounds,  red,  trans- 
parent rosin  150  pounds,  and  rectified 
heavy  rosin  oil  10  pounds. 

V.  Pine  pitch  40  pounds,  brown  rosin 
160  pounds,  and  rectified  heavy  rosin 

011  10  pounds. 

Ordinary  Brown  Brewer's  Pitch. 
Melt  in  an  open  iron  boiler  pine  pitch 
30  pounds,  brown  rosin  175  pounds,  and 
rectified  heavy  rosin  oil  10  pounds. 

Hop  Pitch.  Melt  good  brewer's  pitch 
for  £  hour  with  5  per  cent,  of  hops, 
pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  wire 
cloth,  and  finally  add  0.01  per  cent,  of 
oil  of  hops.  This  pitch,  it  is  claimed, 
contributes  to  make  the  beer  durable 
and  aromatic. 

Glaze  for  Beer  Barrels.  Glazing 
beer  barrels,  being  cheaper  and  better 
than  pitching,  is  adopted  in  many  large 
breweries.  For  this  purpose  dissolve 
\  pound  of  rosin,  i  pound  of  shellac,  A 
pound  of  turpentine,  and  &  pound  of 
yellow  wax  in  1  quart  of  strong  spirit 
of  wine,  and  apply  the  solution  twice  to 
the  inside  of  the  barrel  by  means  of  a 
brush.  As  soon  as  the  second  coat  is 
dry,  apply  one  prepared  by  dissolving 
1  pound  of  shellac  in  1  quart  of  strong 
spirit  of  wine.  This  varnish  closes  the 
pores,  does  not  break  off  nor  injure  the 
taste  of  the  beer. 


Prof.  Artemus  recommends  to  coat 
the  inside  of  the  barrel  with  a  solution 
of  soda  water-glass  of  1 .25  specific  gravity 
rubbed  up  with  i  of  1  per  cent,  of 
magnesia.  This  glaze  is  very  cheap 
and,  as  it  can  only  be  dissolved  by  long 
continued  boiling  in  water,  allows  of  a 
thorough  cleansing  of  the  barrels. 

Testing  Beer  for  Foreign  Bitter  Sub- 
stances. Heat  about  2  quarts  of  the 
beer,  to  be  examined  over  a  water-bath 
until  the  largest  part  of  the  carbonic 
acid  and  about  i  of  the  water  are  evapo- 
rated. To  precipitate  the  bitter  sub- 
stances derived  from  the  hops,  com- 
pound the  fluid,  while  still  hot,  with 
basic  acetate  of  lead  as  long  as  a  pre- 
cipitate is  formed.  The  richer  the  lead 
salt  is  in  plumbic  oxide  the  more  readily 
will  the  hop  constituents  be  removed. 
Filter  off  the  precipitate  of  lead  a* 
quickly  as  possible,  protecting  it  at  the 
same  time  from,  the  action  of  atmos- 
pheric carbonic  acid,  which  would  de- 
compose it.  Washing  out  the  precipi- 
tate is  not  advisable.  The  excess  of 
lead  added  in  the  filtered  fluid  is  pre- 
cipitated with  the  necessary  quantity 
of  sulphuric  acid ;  a  quick  settling  of 
the  sulphate  of  lead  is  accomplished  by 
an  addition  of  about  40  drops  of  a  solu- 
tion of  1  part  of  gelatine  in  20  of  water 
before  adding  the  sulphuric  acid.  The 
fluid,  after  it  is  again  filtered,  must,  if 
the  beer  was  unadulterated,  have  no 
bitter  taste  if  a  few  drops  of  it  are 
placed  upon  the  tongue. 

Now  compound  the  fluid  with  suffi- 
cient ammoniacal  liquor  to  neutralize 
all  the  sulphuric  acid  and  a  part  of  the 
acetic  acid.  Then  evaporate  it  in  the 
water-bath  to  £  pint.  To  precipitate 
the  dextrine,  etc.,  mix  the  residue  with 
4  parts  by  volume  of  absolute  alcohol, 
shake  the  mixture  thoroughly,  then 
place  it  in  the  cellar  for  24  hours,  and 
finally  filter  it.  After  distilling  off  the 
largest  part  of  the  alcohol,  mix  the 
aqueous  residue  of  distillation,  now  re- 
acting acid,  successively  with  petroleum- 
ether,  benzole,  and  chloroform.  Then 
add  ammonia  to  the  aqueous  fluid  until 
it  shows  a  perceptible  alkaline  reaction, 
and  then  repeat  the  shaking  with  the 
three  fluids  in  the  order  given. 

Pure  Beer  prepared  from  malt  and 
hops  shows,  if  treated  in  this  manner, 
the  following  action : 


224 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Acid  Mixtures.  Petroleum-ether.* 
The  solid  part  obtained  by  evaporating 
the  residue  of  the  mixture  with  petro- 
leum-ether has  scarcely  any  bitter  taste, 
and  when  dissolved  in  concentrated 
sulphuric  acidf,  in  sulphuric  acid  and 
sugar,  or  in  nitric  acid,  gives  a  very 
slightly  yellowish-colored  solution,  and 
in  concentrated  hydrochloric  acid  al- 
most a  colorless  one. 

Benzole  %  withdraws  only  very  small 
quantities  of  a  resinous  substance,  which 
acts  towards  the  mentioned  acids  in  a 
similar  manner  as  that  isolated  by  the 
petroleum-ether.  This  substance  has 
also  only  a  slightly  bitter  taste. 

Chloroform  acts  similar  to  benzole. 

Amnioniacal  Shakings.  $  Petroleum- 
ether  absorbs  next  to  nothing. 

Benzole  withdraws  only  traces  of  a 
substance  giving  no  characteristic  re- 
action of  color. 

Beer  Wort  acts  in  the  same  manner 
as  fermented  beer. 

By  the  same  method  the  addition  to 
the  beer  of  the  following  13  substitutes 
for  hops  can  be  shown. 

1.  Wormwood.  On  shaking  the  acid 
fluid  with  petroleum-ether,  ethereal  oil 
is  found,  which  is  recognized  by  its 
odor  and  a  part  of  the  bitter  substance. 
The  residue  of  evaporation  gives  a 
brown  solution  in  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid,  which,  on  being  allowed 
to  stand  in  the  moist  air  of  a  room, 
assumes  a  violet  color..  Compounded 
with  sulphuric  acid  and  a  little  sugar 
it  acquires  gradually  a  red-violet  color. 
By  dissolving  a  part  of  the  evaporated 
residue  in  a  little  water  the  filtered 
solution  reduces  amnioniacal  solution 
of  silver,  while  precipitates  are  obtained 
with  chloride  of  gold  and  potassium 
mercuric  iodide,  but  only  slight  tur- 
bidity with  tannin,  potassium  bromide, 
potassium  iodide,  and  mercurious  ni- 
trate. 

Benzole  and  Chloroform  absorb  also 
the  bitter  substance  which  reacts  as  de- 
scribed above. 


*  Should  boil  between  91  4°  and  140°  F. 

tThe  sulphuric  acid  should  be  as  tree  as 
possible  from  nitric  acid 

J  Benzole  boiling  at  176°  to  177.8°  F.,  and 
previously  rectified,  must  be  used. 

g  Before  making  the  fluid  alkaline  it  must  be 
once  more  mixed  with  petroleum-ether,  in 
order  to  remove  all  traces  of  chloroform. 


2.  Marsh  Rosemary  (Sedumpalustre). 
In  the    extract  with    petroleum-ether 
some  ethereal  oil  having  the  character- 
istic odor  of  marsh  rosemary  is  found. 
The  small  residue  treated  with  concen- 
trated sulphuric  acid  acquires  a  more 
brownish  color  than  ordinary  beer,  but 
for  the  rest  does  not  remarkably  differ 
from  it. 

Benzole  and  Chloroform  absorb  amor- 
phous substances  of  a  bitter  taste,  which 
give  dark  red-violet  solutions  with  sul- 
phuric acid  and  sugar,  and,  on  being 
boiled  in  dilute  sulphuric  acid  (1.10), 
develops  an  odor  of  ericinol.  The  solu- 
tion reduces  chloride  of  gold  and  alka- 
line solution  of  copper,  while  a  precipi- 
tate is  obtained  with  potassium  iodide 
and  tannin,  but  not  with  basic  lead 
acetate.  Benzole  also  absorbs  small 
quantities  of  a  substance  which  reduces 
amnioniacal  solution  of  silver.  Chloro- 
form absorbs  a  substance  which  is  pre- 
cipitated with  potassium -mercuric 
iodide. 

3.  Bog  Bean,  Marsh  Trefoil  (Meny- 
anthes  trifoliata}.     In  the  extract  with 
petroleum-ether  only  traces  of  the  bit- 
ter substance  are  found.     Benzole  and 
chloroform  absorb  more  of  the  bitter 
substance  (menyanthin),   the  taste  of 
which  can  be  detected  in  the  evaporated 
residue.     The  latter,  on  being  heated 
with  dilute  sulphuric  acid  (1.10),  de- 
velops also  the  characteristic  odor  of 
mertyanthol,  reduces  amnioniacal  solu- 
tion of  silver,  and  is  precipitated  or,  at 
least,  made  turbid  with  potassium-mer- 
curic iodide,  potassium  iodide,  tannin, 
and  chloride  of  gold. 

Nothing  characteristic  is  found  on 
shaking  with  amnioniacal  liquor. 

4.  Quassia.  Petroleum-ether  absorbs 
but  very  small  traces  of  the  exceedingly 
bitter  quassiin,  which  does  not  differ  by 
any  other  reaction  from  substances  ob- 
tained from   pure  beer.     Larger  quan- 
tities of  quassiin  are  isolated  by  benzole 
and  especially  by  chloroform.     When 
treated  with  sulphuric  acid  arid  sugar 
it  acquires  a  pale  reddish  color,  reduces 
slightly  amnioniacal  solution  of  silver 
and  chloride  of  gold,  and  precipitates 
potassium-mercuric    iodide,   potassium 
iodide,  tannin,  and  basic  lead  acetate. 

5.  Colchicum  8eeds.  Petroleum-ether 
yields  substances  similar  to  those  iso- 
lated from  unadulterated  beer.    Ben- 


LIQUORS  AND  BEVERAGES. 


225 


tole  absorbs  small  quantities  cf  colchi- 1 
cin  and  colchicein,  which  taste   Ditter  j 
and  give  a  yellow  solution  with  coucen-  j 
trated  sulphuric  acid,  which,  oa  salt-  j 
petre  being  added,  acquires   a  violet, 
blue,  and  later  on  a  green  color.    Tne  j 
last  reaction  of  color  being  also  obtained  ! 
with  nitric  acid  of  1.30  specific  gravity,  j 
By  adding  to  the  solution  in  nitric  acid, 
when  it  has  ceased  to  throw  up  bubbles,  \ 
caustic  potash,  until  a  strong  alkaline  i 
reaction  takes  place,   a  very  durable  i 
cherry  to  dark-red  coloring  is  obtained,  j 
The   chloroform  residue  yields  larger  j 
quantities  of  the  above  constituents  of  i 
the  meadow  saffron,  so  that,  besides  the 
above-mentioned  color  reactions,  precip- 
itates are  obtained  with  the  alkaloid 
reagents  commonly  used. 

6.  Indian  Berries  (Cocculi  Indict), 
Petroleum-ether,   and    Benzole   absorb 
from  the  beer  adulterated  with  Persian 
berries  only  such  constituents  as  from 
pure    beer.      With     chloroform     and, 
still  easier,  with  amyl  alcohol  the  picro 
toxin  is  withdrawn  from  the  fluid,  but, 
on  eyaporating,  it  remains  behind  gen- 
erally in  such  an  impure  state  that  it 
cannot  be  directly  used  for  color  re- 
actions.    It  is  therefore   best    to    test 
whether  a  part  of  the  residue  reduces 
an  alkaline  solution    of  copper,  and 
another  part,  dissolved  in  water,  has  a 
poisonous  effect  upon  fishes.     In  this 
case,  re-dissolve  the  remainder  of  the 
residue  in  warm  water,  shake  again 
with  chloroform,  and  repeat  this  until 
the  residue  of  the  chloroform  shakings 
appears  crystalline,  after  having  been 
allowed,  to  evaporate  spontaneously  in 
the  ordinary  temperature  of  a  room.   On 
re-dissolving  the  residue  in  alcohol,  and 
allowing  it  to  evaporate  slowly,  large  j 
needle-like  crystals  should  remain  be-  i 
hind,  which  give  a  yellow  solution  in  j 
concentrated  sulphuric  acid.     By  mix- 1 
ing  this  solution  intimately  with  5  to  6  ! 
parts  by  weight  of  pulverized  saltpetre, 
then  moistening  it  with  sufficient  pure, 
concentrated  sulphuric  acid  to  form  a 

Plastic  mass,  and  finally  adding  soda- 
ye  of  1.3  specific  gravity  until  a  strong 
alkaline  reaction  takes  "place,  a  brick- 
red  fluid  is  obtained. 

7.  Colocynths.    The  colocynthin  does 
not  pass  into  petroleum  ether  and  ben- 
zole, but  is  shaken  out  with  chloroform. I 
It  is  extremely  bitter,  is  precipitated 

15 


from  an  aqueous  solution  with  tannin, 
reduces  alkaline  solution  of  copper,  and 
dissolved  in  sulphuric  acid  gives  a  red 
solution,  and  in  Frdhde's  reagent*  a 
violet  one.  But  the  latter  reactions 
succeed  only  after  the  colocynthin  has 
been  purified  by  repeated  dissolutions 
in  water  and  shaking  with  chloroform. 

8.  Willow  Bark.    The  salicin  found 
in  the  young  bark  of  several  species  of 
willow  and  poplar  cannot  be  well  ob- 
tained from  acid  extracts  with  petro- 
leum-ether,   benzole,   and    chloroform, 
but  easily  so  with  amyl  alcohol.    On 
heating  the  salicin  with  potassium  bi- 
chromate and    dilute   sulphuric    acid 
(1.4),  it  emits  the  odor  of  salicylic  acid. 
In  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  it  gives 
a  red  solution,  and  in  Frdhde's  reagent 
a  violet-red  one ;   but  both   reactions 
succeed  only  when  the  salicin  is  very 
pure,  which  is  difficult  to  obtain  even 
by  repeated  dissolutions  in  water  and 
shaking    the    filtered    solutions    with 
amyl  alcohol. 

9.  Strychnine  cannot  be  gained  from 
the  acid  solution,  but  only  from   the 
ammoniacal  fluid,   and  then  only  in 
small  quantities  with  petroleum-ether, 
and  somewhat  less  difficult  with  ben- 
zole and  chloroform.    To  establish  the 
alkaloid  it  is  best  to  use  its  well-known 
reaction  upon  sulphuric  acid  and  po- 
tassium bichromate. 

10.  Atropin  and 

11.  Hyoscyamin  are  also  obtained  by 
shaking  the  ammoniacal  solution  witn 
benzole  and  chloroform.    They  are  pre- 
cipitated with  most  reagents  upon  alka- 
loids, but,  as  good  color  reactions  are 
wanting,  must  be  confirmed  by  physio- 
logical tests. 

The  process  is  modified  for  proving. 

12.  Aloes.    By  treating  the  beer,  in 
preparing  it  for  "the  test,  only  with  neu- 
tral lead  acetate,  and  shaking  it  later 
on  with   amyl   alcohol.    After  evapo- 
ration a  residue  with  the  characteristic 
taste  of  aloes  must  remain,  and  which 
yields  precipitates  with  potassium  bro- 
mide, basic  lead  acetate,  and  mercurious 
nitrate,  and,  being  heated,  reduces  alka- 
line solution  of  copper  and  solution  of 
gold.     Tannin  must  also  precipitate  it, 


*0.15  grains  of  sodium  molybdate  dissolved 
in  40  drops  of  pure  concentrated  sulphuric 
acid. 


226 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


but,  on  being  added  in  excess,  partly 
redissolves  the  precipitate.  By  boiling 
a  part  of  the  residue  with  concentrated 
nitric  acid,  and  expelling  the  latter 
over  a  water-bath,  a  mass  remains 
which,  on  being  heated  with  caustic 
potash  and  potassium  cyanide,  acquires 
a  blood-red  color. 

13.  Gentian  Root.  The  beer  is  also 
prepared  for  this  test  by  treating  it  with 
neutral  lead  acetate,  filtering  and  re- 
moving the  excess  of  lead,  with  just  the 
necessary  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid. 
The  fluid  is  then  evaporated  to  the  con- 
sistency of  syrup,  and  this  acidulated 
with  nitric  acid,  and  then  subjected  to 
the  process  of  dialysis.  The  neutral- 
ized dialysate  is  again  precipitated  with 
neutral  lead  acetate,  then  filtered,  and 
the  filtrate  compounded  with  basic  lead 
acetate,  whereby  the  bitter  principle  of 
gentian  root  (gentianin)  is  precipi- 
tated. The  precipitate,  after  filtering 
and  washing,  is  decomposed  with  sul- 
phide of  hydrogen,  and  the  filtered  fluid 
shaken  with  benzole  or  chloroform.  By 
adding  ferric  chloride  to  an  aqueous 
solution  of  gentianin  it  will  be  colored 
brown,  but  is  not  precipitated  by  it. 
Gentianin  reduces  ammoniacal  solu- 
tion of  silver  and  alkaline  solution  of 
copper.  It  is  precipitated  with  potas- 
sium bromide  and  mercurious  nitrate, 
chloride  of  gold,  and  phosphomolybdic 
acid,  while  corrosive  sublimate  and 
potassium-mercuric  iodide  cause  tur- 
bidity. 

Determination  of  Glycerine  in  Beer. 
For  Dark  Beers.  Evaporate  carefully 
in  a  water-bath,  at  about  165°  F.,  6 
fluid  ounces  of  beer  and  li  drachms 
of  magnesium  hydrate.  Rub  the  resi- 
due before  it  is  entirely  dry  with  3 
fluid  ounces  of  absolute  alcohol,  then 
filter  off  the  alcohol  and  wash  the 
residue  with  3  fluid  ounces' of  alcohol. 
Then  compound  the  filtrate  with  3£ 
times  its  volume  of  absolute  ether  in 
order  to  separate  the  maltose  and  para- 
pepton,  and  then  allow  the  filtrate  to 
stand  for  12  hours  for  the  volatilization 
of  the  ether.  Place  the  remaining  al- 
coholic solution  in  a  flask  previously 
weighed,  evaporate  it  to  a  syrup  on  the 
water-bath,  and  dry  it  in  a  rarefied 
space  for  12  to  24  hours.  Extract  the 
residue  with  about  1  fluid  ounce  of 
absolute  alcohol,  free  the  fluid  by  fil- 


tering from  the  separated  cholesterin, 
malt  fat,  etc.,  wash  it  with  i  fluid  ounce 
of  absolute  alcohol,  and  evaporate  the 
filtrate  over  the  water-bath,  then  dry  it 
under  the  air-pump  and  weigh  it  as 
glycerine. 

For  Light  Beers,  poor  in  peptones, 
take  up  the  mass  thickened  with  mag- 
nesium hydrate  with  absolute  alcohol, 
filter,  evaporate  the  filtrate  to  a  syrup, 
dry  it  under  the  air-pump,  add  a  mixt- 
ure of  1  part  of  absolute  alcohol  and  1 
part  of  ether,  stir  vigorously  with  a 
glass  rod,  filter  through  a  very  small 
filter,  wash  with  the  same  mixture, 
evaporate  carefully,  and  finish  the  proc- 
ess under  the  air-pump. 

Alcohol  and  Compressed  Yeast  from 
uncrushed  Cereals  ivithmit  the  Use  of 
Steam  Pressure.  Acidulate  50  gallons 
of  water  with  2  ounces  of  pure  sul- 
phuric acid  of  66  per  cent.,  and  in  it 
soak  20  pounds  of  the  cereals  without 
being  crushed,  at  a  temperature  of  about 
104°  F.  After  soaking  for  48  to  CO 
hours  the  material  is  brought  together 
with  the  water  into  the  preparatory 
mashing  tun,  which  is  provided  with  a 
mashing  machine,  and  saccharization 
takes  place  at  140°  F. 

To  Convert  Alcohol  of  70  per  cent, 
into  90  per  cent,  in  the  Cold  Way.  Mix 
calcined  potash  with  alcohol  of  70  per 
cent,  until  the  phlegm,  when  shaken, 
shows  80  per  cent. ;  then  pour  the  al- 
cohol carefully  into  another  vessel,  and 
add  potash  until  it  shows  90  per  cent. 
Then  pour  it  into  a  third  vessel,  and  to 
cleanse  it,  which  will  require  about  1 
hour,  add  some  more  potash,  and  gome 
burnt  alum.  The  potash  before  using 
it,  must  be  pulverized,  sifted,  and  cal- 
cined in  an  iron  vessel. 

To  Purify  Alcohol  obtained  from 
Beets  and  Molasses.  The  alcohol  is 
brought  into  a  vessel  of  galvanized 
iron  or  enamelled  wrought  iron.  For 
every  20  gallons  of  alcohol  of  about  90 
per  cent.,  2  to  2i  ounces  of  caustic 
potash  are  added.  The  mixture  is 
allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  about  1 
hour,  when  it  is  thoroughly  stirred  and 
the  agitation  repeated  every  12  hours 
during  the  first  24  hours.  Afjter  stand- 
ing quietly  for  12  hours,  10  per  cent, 
of  water  is  added,  and  the  agitation 
repeated  every  12  hours  during  the 
next  36  hours.  It  is  then  allowed  to 


LIQUORS  AND  BEVERAGES. 


227 


rest  for  24  hours,  and  filtered  through 
a  layer  of  asbestos.  The  potash  is  next 
neutralized  with  tartaric  acid.  After 
stirring  it  and  then  resting  for  12  hours 
about  2  gallons  of  water  are  added  to 
every  20  gallons  of  alcohol.  The  liquid 
is  again  allowed  to  rest  for  12  hours, 
and  filtered  before  rectifying. 

To  Purify  Alcohol.  The  process 
consists  in  adding  a  small  quantity  of 
nitrate  of  silver  to  the  crude  alcohol, 
I  to  1J  ounces  being  required  for  2000 
gallons  of  crude  alcohol,  according  to 
quality  and  strength.  For  practical 
use  it  is  best  to  prepare  a  solution  of  10 
parts  of  nitrate  of  silver  in  100  of  water. 
After  the  alcohol  has  been  mixed  with 
the  solution  it  is  converted  into  high- 
proof  spirits.  Rectified  spirit  produced 
by  this  process  is  destitute  of  all  bad  odors 
to  a  degree  not  otherwise  attainable. 
The  invention  is  available  with  equal 
success  for  any  kind  of  spirit  of  wine  ; 
an  addition  of  but  7  grains  of  nitrate 
of  silver  to  100  gallons  of  spirit  of  wine 
being  sufficient  to  remove  the  bad  odors 
from  the  poorest  quality  coming  into 
commerce.  For  practical  use  it  is  best 
in  these  cases  also  to  prepare  solutions 
of  nitrate  of  silver  in  water,  namely, 
for  the  first,  1  part  of  nitrate  of  silver  to 
100  of  water,  and  for  the  last,  1  part  of 
nitrate  of  silver  to  1000  of  water. 

To  Prepare  Absolute  Alcohol.  The 
easiest  way  of  accomplishing  this  is  to 
pour  strong  alcohol  over  anhydrous  sul- 
phate of  copper,  and  agitate  as  long  as 
the  salt  is  colored  blue,  and  then  distil 
the  fluid. 

Manufacture  of  Cognac.  The  pro- 
cess in  the  Cognac  district  is  as  follows : 
The  wine  to  be  distilled  is  first  brought 
into  a  stone  trough,  and  is  then  pumped 
into  a  bronze  boiler  called  the  "chauffe- 
vin,"  whence  it  can  flow  into  a  still. 
In  the  chauffe-vin  and  in  the  retort  the 
wine  is  heated  by  a  coal  fire,  at  first 
strongly  and  then  gradually  weak. 
After  a  short  time  a  white,  generally 
transparent,  liquor  called  "  broulKs, 
which  should  amount  to  about  i  of  the 
quantity  of  wine  brought  into  the 
chauffe-vin,  begins  to  run  from  the 
mouth  of  the  cooling-pipe.  The  brown 
fluid,  containing  but  very  little  alcohol, 
which  remains  in  the  reto"t  is  emptied 
and  thrown  away.  Fresh  wine  is  then 
conveyed  into  the  ehauiFe-vin,  and  the 


distillation  commences  anew,  and  is 
continued  day  and  night  until  all  the 
wine  has  been  converted  into  spirits, 
which  is  finally  rectified. 

A  rtificial  Cognac.  The  following 
compound,  after  storing  for  some  time, 
will  closely  resemble  the  genuine  arti- 
cle in  taste  and  aroma :  I.  Mix  10  ounces 
of  acetic  acid,  7  ounces  of  spirit  its 
nitricocethereus,  If  gallons  of  white 
French  wine,  f  pint  of  tincture  of  oak 
bark  (extracted  from  4  ounces  of  oak 
bark),  and  30  gallons  of  spirit  of  wine 
of  55  to  60  per  cent.,  and  the  requisite 
quantity  of  sugar  color. 

II.  Artificial  Cognac  of  a  very  Jin e 
favor  is  obtained  by  mixing  2400  parts 
of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.,  1600  of  water, 
8  of  spiritus  nitricocethereus,  6  of  aro- 
matic tincture,  1  of  acetic  ether,  and  2 
of  tannin.  The  mixture,  after  standing 
for  some  time,  is  filtered,  and  should 
have  a  specific  gravity  of  0.917  to 
0.920. 

Dutch  Method  of  Distilling  and 
Manufacture  of  Co mpt •( , w/  '  (Dry} 
Yeast.  At  Schiedam,  Jtoticrdam.  and 
Dclfshaien  are  300  to  400  distilleries 
and  manufacturers  of  compressed  yeast. 
The  arrangement  of  all  the  distilleries 
is  nearly  the  same.  The  stills  and  re- 
frigerator stand  on  1  side,  and  on  the 
other  2  rows  of  vats,  6  in  each  row. 
Some  of  the  vats  are  covered  ;  on  lift- 
ing the  cover  of  one  in  which  the  mash 
has  ceased  fermenting,  a  thin,  mouldy 
coat  will  be  found  on  the  surface ;  by 
tasting  the  mash  and  dipping  the  finger 
a  few  inches  into  it,  no  particles  of 
crushed  malt  will  be  detected. 

The  capacity  of  the  vats  is  nearly  the 
same  in  all  distilleries,  and  3  to  4 "men 
are  employed  in^?ach.  Work  in  all  dis- 
tilleries commences  at  4  o'clock  in  the 
morning  aud'eeases  at  5  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon.  The  Dutch  method  of  dis- 
tilling requires  comparatively  little 
labor,  which  is  generally  done  by  hand, 
steam-engines  being  seldom  used,  and 
then  only  for  pumping  water.  The 
greatest  cleanliness  prevails  in  the  dis- 
tillery; the  walls,  brickwork  ofthestills, 
etc.,  being  frequently  painted,  so  as  to 
give  them  always  anew  appearance. 

1.  The  mash  is  brought  into  fermen- 
tation with  compressed  yeast. 

2.  Considerable  of  the  mash  of  former 
distilling  is  utilized. 


223 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


3.  No  sulphuric  acid  is  used.  The 
mash  is  distilled,  a,  into  low  wine,  and, 
6,  by  repeated  distilling  of  the  low 
wine  into  gin  (the  receipt  for  which 
will  be  given  later  on). 

In  Schiedam,  4  vats,  each  having  a 
capacity  of  about  500  gallons,  are 
usually  mashed  every  day  with  250 
pounds  of  crushed  rye  and  150  pounds 
of  crushed  malt ;  a  total  of  400  pounds 
of  groats. 

Mas/iiny.  At  4  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing water  is  boiled  in  1  of  the  stills. 
The  groats  having  been  poured  into  the 
mashing  vat,  the  mashing  water,  con- 
sisting of  7  kannen*  of  cold  and  21 
kanhen  of  warm  water,  is  carried  into 
the  vat  by  3  workmen,  while  the  fore- 
man manipulates  with  a  kind  of  mash- 
ing scoop.  When  the  mashing  is 
finished,  each  vat  contains  about  175 
gallons.  A  thermometer  is  seldom  used 
for  determining  the  temperature  of  the 
mash.  The  mash  is  allowed  to  stand 
quietly  for  saccharization  for  H  to  2 
hours. 

Setting  (Anstelleri).  About  7  o'clock 
A.  M.  230  gallons  of  wash  are  put  into 
the  fermenting  vat,  next  yeast,  and 
finally  40  gallons  of  cooling  water,  its 
temperature  depending  on  that  of  the 
wash,  leaving  4  inches  (37  gallons)  for 
rising  space.  Recapitulation  of  quan- 
tity of  mash :  One  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  gal  Ions  of  mash,  2.'50  gallons  of  wash, 
40  gallons  of  water,  37  gallons  of  rising 
space;  482  gallons. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  foregoing 
how  little  labor  is  actually  required,  as 
only  one  man  mashes  lightly  by  haiid, 
and  cooling  apparatuses  being  super- 
fluous, as  sufficient  cold  water  and  wash 
are  added  to  the  mash. 

The  mash,  after  having  been  set  at  9 
o'clock  A.  M.  at  81.5°  F.,  is  allowed  to 
ferment  until  12  o'clock,  during  which 
time  a  thin  white  coating  of  "froth  is 
formed  on  the  surface. 

The  wort  from  the  mash  in  the  4  tuns 
is  then  pumped  into  a  wort-back  re- 
sembling a  square  wooden  cooler,  and 
standing  on  an  elevation  in  the  fer- 
menting room.  In  place  of  a  perforated 
bottom  to  separate  the  grains  from  the 

*  Onekanne  =  4.4  gallons  ;  28  kannen  being 
used.  The  total  quantity  of  water  in  each  tun 
is  about  125  gallons.  (W.  T.  B.) 


wort,  the  Dutch  distillers  use  a  silghtly 
serpentine  copper  siphon  about  30  inches 
long.  4  inches  wide  on  the  top.  In  one 
of  the  staves  of  the  vat,  about  10  inches 
above  the  bottom,  which  has  a  fall 
forward  of  about  1  inch,  is  a  hole  closed 
with  a  cork.  This  latter  is  removed  by 
pushing  the  lower  pointed  end  of  the 
copper  siphon  through  the  hole  from 
the  inside  of  the  vat,  allowing  it  to  pro- 
ject about  |  inch.  To  the  upper  end 
of  the  siphon  is  fastened  a  strap,  which 
is  drawn  over  the  edge  of  the  vat  by  a 
stone.  The  stone  is  as  heavy  as  the 

|  copper  tube  full  of  thin  mash.  By 
raising  the  stone  somewhat,  the  upper 
end  of  the  copper  siphon  sinks  down, 

|  sucks  in  the  thin  mash,  and  carries  it 
through  the  lower  end  projecting 
through  the  hole  in  the  vat,  into  a  col- 
lecting back.  When  all  the  thin  mash 
down  to  the  exhaust  has  run  oft',  the 
stone  is  raised  up  a  little  more  and  the 

;  operation  repeated.  All  the  wort  is 
drawn  off  from  the  mash  in  this  man- 
ner, that  of  the  four  vats  running  at  the 
same  time  through  a  gutter  into  a  col- 
lecting back,  and  is  from  here  pumped 
into  the  above-mentioned  wort-back. 
Thefrolh  (scum)  formed  from  the  time  of 
setting  (anstellen)  to  drawing  off  of  the 
wort  (9  to  12  o'clock)  is  prevented  from 
entering  the  siphon  with  the  thin  wort, 
by  placing  a  lath  across  the  surface  of 
the  wort.  When  the  principal  part  of 
the  wort  has  been  drawn  off,  water  is 
poured  upon  the  mash  remaining  in  the 
vat  and  thoroughly  mixed  with  it.  It 
is  allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  2  or  3 
hours,  when  the  heavier  particles  of  the 
grains  will  have  settled  on  the  bottom, 
and  the  operation  of  drawing  off  the 
wort  is  repeated.  About  160  gallons 
of  sediment,  i  e.  thick  mash,  remain  in 
the  vat  after  all  the  wort  has  been 
drawn  off.  The  wort  stands  about  4 
inches  deep  in  the  wort-back,  which 
has  a  total  height  of  about  12  inches; 
it  remains  here  until  the  next  morning, 
when  the  yeast  is  ripe. 

The  formation  of  yeast  is  as  follows : 
The  yeast  separates  not  as  a  high  froth, 

I  but  as  a  brownish  mass  resembling  the 

|  formation  of  cream  upon  milk.  Dark 
places  are  frequently  observed  upon  the 
surface  of  the  wort,  but  generally  it  is 
of  a  light-brown  color;  the  lighter  the 
color  the  better  is  the  fermentation, 


LIQUORS  AND  BEVERAGES. 


229 


and  also  the  yeast.  When  the  yeast  is 
ripe  the  wort  is  brought  back  into  the 
respective  fermenting  tuns.  As  there 
is  also  a  sediment  of  yeast  on  the  bot- 
tom, in  order  to  retain  this  a  ring  is 


placed  around   the  tap-hole,   the    top 

k  by  a  lath  pla 
across  the  surface  of  the  wort.     When 


yeast  being  held  back  by  a  lath  placed 


all  the  wort  has  run  off  a  hose  is  tied  to 
the  tap-hole  and  a  workman  sweeps  the 
ripe  yeast  into  the  precipitating  vessels. 
These  are  circular  in  form  arid  about 
15J  inches  high.  The  yeast,  after  re- 
maining here  for  3  to  4  hours,  can  be 
pressed  without  much  difficulty,  al- 
though only  very  little  water,  and  that 
but  once,  and  no  starch  has  been  added 
to  precipitate  it. 

For  pressing  the  yeast  a  canvas  bag 
is  put  inside  a  stout  press  bag,  and  this 
into  another  press  bag.  The  yeast  is 
poured  into  this  triple  bag,  the  canvas 
bag  containing  the  grains  being  finally 
lifted  out.  How  much  easier  the  Dutch 
distiller  removes  by  this  process  the 
particles  of  groats  from  the  yeast,  than 
by  washing  and  sifting  it,  as  is  cus- 
tomary in  the  distilleries  of  other  coun- 
tries. To  press  the  yeast  uniformly 
dry  the  press  bag  is  not  tied,  but  the 
bags,  which  are  square,  are  placed  one 
on  the  top  of  the  other,  the  open  end 
of  the  bag  being  bent  upwards  and 
secured  between  the  bag  itself  and  that 
lying  on  the  top  of  it,  a  piece  of  linen 
being,  for  further  security,  laid  around 
the  open  end  of  the  bag.  As  6  press 
bags  are  laid  on  top  of  each  other,  con- 
siderable yeast  can  be  quickly  pressed 
dry  with  one  press. 

The  setting  (stell)  yeast,  preserved 
in  a  fluid  state,  is  compounded  with  hop 
water.  One  gallon  of  hops  is  distilled 
off,  and  the  extract  used  for  preserving 
the  yeast  required  for  16  washings. 

Clarifying  the  Wash.  The  wash 
runs  directly  from  the  still  into  a  brick 
pit,. and  clarifies  here  while  still  warm, 
there  being  but  a  small  opening  in  the 
cover  of  the  pit  for  carrying  off  the 
vapors.  About  3  of  the  clarified  wash  is 
pumped  the  next  morning  into  a  cooler 
lined  with  copper,  and  used  the  third 
day  for  cooling  off  the  mash.  As  soon 
as  the  wash  has  been  drawn  off  into  the 
respective  fermenting  tuns  the  cooler  is 
at  once  cleansed  and  the  wash  to  be 
used  the  next  day  pumped  up. 


Receipt  for  Holland  Gin.  For  a  dis- 
tillate of  12  mashings  about  20  gallons 
of  juniper  berries  are  used ;  for  the 
finest  qualities  of  gin  some  licorice  root 
and  sugar  are  added  in  rectifying. 

The  fine  flavor  is  imparted  to  the  gin 
by  the  proportion  of  malt  to  the  crushed 
rye,  and  the  finished  liquor  being  recti- 
fied three  times.  In  a  few  distilleries 
20  gallons  of  barley  are  used  in  place 
of  the  same  quantity  of  rye. 

Rum  (Fagon  Rum).  Prepare  first  a 
so-called  rum  body  by  pulverizing  10 
pounds  of  catechu,  placing  the  powder 
in  a  wide-necked  bottle,  pouring  If  gal- 
lons of  alcohol  of  96  per  cent,  over  it, 
and  letting  the  mixture  stand  for  8  days, 
stirring  it  frequently  until  the  super- 
natant alcohol  has  acquired  a  dark- 
brown  color,  while  the  sediment  has 
become  light  brown.  Then  pour  the 
clear  fluid  into  a  demijohn.  On  the 
other  hand,  boil  45  pounds  of  St.  John's 
bread,  as  fresh  as  possi  ble,  and  10  pounds 
of  large  raisins  with  4i  gallons  of  water 
for  about  25  minutes  and  press  out  the 
liquor.  Mix  this  with  U  gallons  of 
alcohol,  pour  it  into  the  demijohn,  stir 
thoroughly  and  allow  the  whole  to  set- 
tle. Take  1J  to  3  quarts  of  this  rum 
body  to  every  130  gallons  of  alcohol, 
and  flavor  the  mixture  with  H  to  1J 
pounds  of  Kingston  rum  essence  to 
every  20  gallons. 

To  Destroy  Fusel  Oil  (Amy  I  Alcohol). 
Every  distillate,  be  it  from  grain  or 
potato  mash,  contains  more  or  less  fusel 
oil,  which,  by  its  disagreeable  odor  and 
taste,  injures  the  flavor  of  the  liquor, 
and,  in  preparing  cordials,  liqueurs, 
etc.,  destroys  the  effect  of  the  aromatic 
admixtures.  The  best  means  hitherto 
discovered  of  depriving  liquors  of  fusel 
oil  is  to  pass  them  through  coarsely- 
pulverized  charcoal,  distributed  as  fol- 
lows in  a  series  of  casks.  Each  vessel 
must  have  a  double  bottom,  the  false 
one  being  perforated  and  placed  a  few 
inches  above  the  true.  Upon  this  per- 
forated board  a  layer  of  chopped,  lixivi- 
ated straw  £  to  1  inch  thick  is  laid, 
and  over  the  straw  a  stratum  of  frne 
gravel  the  size  of  large  peas.  This  is 
covered  with  a  pretty  thick  stratum  of 
the  charcoal,  previously  freed  from  dirt 
and  dust  by  washing ;  upon  this  is 
spread  a  piece  of  close  canvas,  and 
pressed  down  by  a  thin  bed  of  river 


230 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


sand.  The  cylinder  or  cask  should  be  I  WINES.  Bordeaux.  It  is  besi  to 
filled  with  these  successive  layers  to  use  a  light  Hungarian  red  wine.  Mix 
within  2  inches  of  its  top,  and  is  then  I  with  50  gallons  1  pint  of  kino,  2 
closed  air-tight.  Immediately  below  to  3  ounces  of  sulphate  of  iron  dissolved 


the  head  a  hole  is  bored  in  the  side  for 
receiving  an  overflow  tube,  which  is 
either  screwed  rectangularly  to  another 


in  1  quart  of  boiling  water,  and  1  wine- 
glassful  of  extract  of  orris  root  and  a 
like  quantity  of  raspberry  extract. 

Mix    in  a  barrel    100 


eibow  pipe  or  is  bent  so  as  to  enter  tight        Burgundy. 
into  a  hole  beneath  the  false  bottom    parts  of  white  wine,  10  of  the  juice  of 
of  the  second  cylinder  or  cask.     In  this  j  black  cherries,  6  of  crushed  large  rai- 
way  the  series  may  be  continued  to  any 
desired  number  of  vessels ;  the  last  dis- 
charging the   purified   spirit  into   the 
store-barrel.     The  foul  alcohol  must  be 
made  to  flow  into  the  bottom  space  of 
the  first  cylinder  down  through  a  pipe 


in  communication  with  a  charging  ves 
sel,  placed  upon  such  an  elevation  as 
to  give  sufficient  pressure  to  force  the 
spirits  up  through  the  series  of  filters, 
the  supply  pipe  being  provided  with  a 
regulating  stop  cock. 

To  Purify  Alcohol  and  Liquors. 
Cover  10  pounds  of  animal  charcoal 
with  a  few  inches  of  water,  add  1J 
ounces  of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid, 
agitate  the  mixture  thoroughly,  and 
let  it  stand  over  night.  Draw  off  the 
water  the  next  day,  and  wash  the  mixt- 
ure with  fresh  water  until  the  latter 
has  no  longer  an  acid  taste  and  does 
not  redden  litmus  paper.  The  drained- 
off  charcoal  is  then  placed  upon  the 
perforated  bottom  of  the  filtering  ap- 
paratus, covered  with  a  layer  of  lixivi- 
ated straw  |  to  1  inch  thick.  Upon 
this  is  placed  another  perforated  bot- 
tom, and  upon  this  a  mixture  of  1 
pound  of  magnesia,  20  pounds  of  wood 
charcoal,  and  5i  pounds  of  pyrolusite. 
This  is  also  covered  with  a  layer  of 
lixiviated  straw  and  a  finely-perforated 
plate  upon  which  comes  a  thick  layer 
of  river  sand  previously  washed  and 
dried.  The  liquor  to  be  purified  is 
then  compounded  with  J  ounce  of  spirit 
of  ammonia  to  every  20  gallons.  The 
liquor  is  allowed  to  remain  quietly  for 
a  few  days  and  is  then  gradually  passed 
into  the  filter,  where  it  remains  for  3 
days,  when  the  purified  liquor  is  drawn 
off  and  the  filter  replenished.  This 
apparatus  may  be  used  for  an  entire 
year  without  renewing  the  filtering 
material. 

To  Remove  the  Taste  of  the  Barrel 
from  Whiskey,  add  a  little  good  olive 
oil  to  it. 


sins,  6  of  pulverized  cinnamon,  ^  of 
pulverized  crude  tartar,  and  50  of  must 
concentrated  by  evaporation;  allow 
the  mixture  to  ferment  in  a  cool  place, 
and  then  rack  the  wine  into  another 
barrel. 

Champagne.    The  following  process 


of  manufacture  is  observed  in  cham- 
pagne: Late  in  the  fall  the  must  of 
different  grapes  is  brought  and  poured 
in  large  vats.  In  December,  before 
fermentation  is  entirely  completed,  the 
wine  is  clarified  with  isinglass  and 
racked  into  well-stoppered  bottles.  The 
bottles  are  then  laid  on  their  sides  with 
their  mouths  sloping  downwards  at  an 
angle  of  about  20  degrees,  in  order  that 
any  sediment  may  fall  in  the  neck. 
At  the  end  of  a  few  days  the  inclination 
of  the  bottles  is  increased,  and  the 
slimy  substances  collected  over  the  cork 
are  from  time  to  time  dexterously 
discharged  by  a  skilled  workman  open- 
ing the  bottles.  Every  time  the  bot- 
tles are  opened,  1  teaspoonful  of  rock- 
candy  is  added  to  each  bottle.  When 
no  more  sediment  is  collected  in 
the  neck,  the  bottles  are  corked  with 
long  corks  by  special  machines,  and 
wired. 

Artificial  Champagnes.  Champagne 
Liqueur.  Boil  8|  pounds  of  the  finest 
loaf  sugar  with  1  gallon  of  water,  add 
gradually  while  the  water  is  boiling  i 
gallon  of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent.,  and 
then  filter  the  mixture. 

The  above  liqueur  is  added  to  all  the 
following  compounds. 

Chandon  et  Moet  (Green  Seal}.  Mix 
the  above  liqueur  with  7i  gallons  of 
white  wine  and  1  quart  of  cognac. 

Louis  Roderer  (Green  and  Bronze 
Seal).  Mix  the  champagne  liqueur  with 
7i  gallons  of  white  wine,  1  bottle  of 
cognac,  and  4  drops  of  sulphuric  ether 
dissolved  in  cognac. 

Heidesick  et  Cie.  (Sealed  with  Tin* 
/oil).  Mix  the  champagne  liqueur 


LUBRICANTS  FOR  MACHINES,  WAGONS,  ETC. 


231 


with  74  gallons  of  white  wine  and  £ 
pint  of  cognac, 

Lemberg  Geldermann  ft  Deittz 
(Sealed  with  Tinfoil).  Mix  double  the 
quantity  of  champagne  liqueur  with  74 
gallons  of  white  wine  and  I  pint  of 
cognac,  in  which  2  roots  of  celery, 
carefully  cleansed,  have  been  previ- 
ously digested  for  4  hours. 

Schneider  ( Yellowish  •  green  Seal). 
Mix  the  champagne  liqueur  with  74 
gallons  of  wine,  1  bottle  of  cognac,  and 
3  drops  of  strawberry  essence. 

Fleuer  de  Sillery  (Sealed  with  Tin- 
foil). Mix  the  champagne  liqueur 
with  7£  gallons  of  white  wine  and  1 
bottle  of  cognac,  in  which  4  roots  of 
celery  have  been  previously  digested 
for  8  hours. 

Jacquesson  et  Flls  (Sealed  with  Tin- 
foil). Mix  the  champagne  liqueur 
with  74  gallons  of  white  wine  and  1J 
pints  of  cognac. 

The  bottles  are  corked  with  cham- 
pagne corks  and  laid  on  their  sides 
with  their  mouths  sloping  downward. 
They  are  recorked  the  next  day 
with  the  corking  machine.  The  corks, 
before  using  them,  must  be  laid  in 
hot  water,  and  before  placing  them 
in  the  machine,  moistened  with  sugar 
syrup,  and  as  soon  as  driven  into 
the  bottles  tied  with  cord,  and  finally 
wired. 

Madeira.  Digest  at  a  moderate  heat 
10  ounces  of  purified  honey,  13  ounces 
of  the  strongest  spirit  of  wine,  4  ounce 
of  hop  tops,  and  3  quarts  of  French 
wine,  then  add  4  ounce  of  tincture  of 
burned  sugar,  and  filter  the  wine  into 
bottles. 

Malaga.  Put  15  gallons  of  white 
calabre  (white-wine  must  boiled  down 
to  4  of  its  volume),  7  gallons  of  red 
calnbre  (red-wine  must  boiled  down  to 
i  of  its  volume),  2  gallons  of  spirit  of 
wine,  and  1  wineglassful  of  essence 
de  Goudron  dissolved  in  spirit  of  wine 
in  a  barrel ;  fill  the  barrel  full  with 
light  white  wine  and  let  it  remain  in 
a  warm  room  about  4  to  6  weeks. 
Then  color  the  wine  with  sugar  color, 
but  not  too  brown,  and  finally  clear  it 
with  isinglass. 

The  essence  de  Goudron  is  prepared 
by  allowing  1  pound  of  Swedish  wood 
tar  to  stand  for  a  few  weeks  with  If 
pints  of  spirit  of  wine,  shaking  it  fre- 


quently, and  finally  drawing  off  the 
supernatant  liquor. 

Port  Wine.  Compound  100  gallons 
of  old  red  wine  with  10  to  15  per  cent, 
of  pure  honey r  and  let  the  mixture 
ferment  slowly  in  a  warm  room.  When 
the  sweet  taste  has  almost  disappeared, 
add  4J  gallons  of  spirit  of  wine  pre- 
viously mixed  with  2  quarts  of  kino. 
Should  the  wine  not  be  dark  enough, 
add  some  heavy  red  wine,  or  color  with 
mallow  blossoms. 

To  Improve  Wine  Mmt.  Pulverize 
pure  common  salt,  calcine  it  in  a  pan, 
and  distribute  it  in  the  barrels  in  the 
proportion  of  i  ounce  of  salt  to  15 
gallons  of  must. 

A  Remedy  for  Ropiness  or  Viscidity 
of  Wines  is  the  bruised  berries  of  the 
mountain  ash  in  a  somewhat  unripe 
state,  of  which  1  pound,  well  stirred  in, 
is  sufficient  for  a  barrel.  After  agita- 
tion the  wine  is  left  at  rest  for  a  day  or 
two,  and  then  racked  off  into  another 
barrel,  and  finally  cleared  and  bottled. 

To  Remove,  the  Taste  of  the  Barrel 
from  Wine  is  best  accomplished  by 
agitating  the  wine  for  some  time  with  a 
spoonful  of  olive  oil.  An  essential  oil, 
the  chief  cause  of  the  bad  taste,  com- 
bines with  the  fixed  oil  and  rises  with, 
it  to  the  surface. 


LUBRICANTS  FOR  MACHINES,  WAG- 
ONS, ETC. 

Adhesive  Grease  for  Machine  Brits. 
Lubricate  the  belts  with  castor-oil  to 
which  10  per  cent,  of  tallow  has  been 
added.  This  will  make  them  flexible 
and  augment  their  friction  on  the  pul- 
leys. 

Grease  for  Water-proofing  Leather. 
Twenty-four  parts  of  oleic  acid,  6  of 
crude  stearic  acid,  18  of  ammoniacal 
soap,  3  of  extract  of  tannin,  and  24  of 
water.  Melt  the  oleic  acid  together 
with  the  stearic  acid,  then  add  gradu- 
ally the  ammoniacal  soap,  the  extract 
of  tannin,  and  finally  the  water.  The 
ammoniacal  soap  is  obtained  by  adding 
to  heated  oleic  acid,  caustic  ammonia 
until,  after  continued  stirring,  the  odor 
of  ammonia  remains  apparent  and  the 
whole  congeals  to  a  jelly-like  ninss. 
By  adding  a  solution  of  2  parts  of  sul- 
phate of  iron  in  6  of  water  the  grease 


232 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


will  assume  a  deep-black  color,  and  is 
then  very  suitable  for  treating  boots 
and  shoes. 

To  Make  Kid  Leather  Soft  the  fol- 
lowing ointment  has  been  recom- 
mended :  Wax  30  parts,  asphaltum  10, 
linseed  oil  100,  oil  of  turpentine  50, 
and  olive  oil  100.  The  wax  and  as- 
phaltum are  dissolved  in  the  oil  of 
turpentine  with  the  aid  of  heat;  the 
linseed  oil  and  olhe  oil  are  mixed, 
heated,  and  added  to  the  solution,  and 
the  mixture  made  homogeneous  by 
stirring. 

Lubricant  for  Industrial  Purposes. 
Melt  together  130  pounds  of  castor-oil, 
20  pounds  of  animal  fat,  and  40  pounds 
of  vegetable  oil,  as  cotton  oil,  rape-seed 
oil,  etc.,  then  add  40  pounds  of  Indian 
meal,  and  let  the  whole  boil  for  30 
minutes. 

A  Pulverulent  Lubricant  for  axles, 
shafts,  etc.,  is  prepared  by  intimately 
mixing  graphite  with  the  white  or  yelk 
of  eggs,  rubbing  the  mixture  fine  after 
drying,  and  dusting  the  powder  upon 
the  parts  of  the  machine  while  slowly 
revolving. 

Doulon's  Caoutchouc  Lubricant. 
Two  hundred  parts  of  train  oil  are 
melted  in  a  boiler  until  it  commences 
to  bubble  and  emits  a  peculiarly  dis- 
agreeable odor;  20  parts  of  caout- 
chouc cut  up  in  small  pieces  are  then 
gradually  added,  stirring  the  mixture 
vigorously  after  every  addition  of 
caoutchouc. 

Patent  Wagon  Grease  from  Rosin -oil 
Soap.  Stir  90  pounds  of  powdered 
slaked  lime  into  100  pounds  of  rosin 
oil.  Heat  the  mixture,  constantly  stir- 
ring it  until  a  uniform  paste  of  the  con- 
sistency of  syrup  is  obtained.  This 
rosin-oil  compound  is  a  component  of 
all  the  patent  wagon  grease. 

Blue  P«te)>t.  Grease.  Five  hundred 
and  fifty  pounds  of  crude  rosin  oil  are 
heated  for  1  hour  with  2  pounds  of  cal- 
cium hydrate  and  allowed  to  cool.  The 
oil  is  skimmed  off,  and  10  to  12  pounds 
pf  rosin-oil  soap  are  stirred  in  until  all 
is  of  a  buttery  consistency  and  of  blue 
color. 

Yellow  Patent  Grease  is  prepared  by 
adding  6  per  cent,  of  solution  of  tur- 
meric to  the  blue  grease.  The  solution 
is  obtained  by  boiling  1  part  of  tur- 
meric with  20  of  caustic  lye. 


Black  Patent  Grease  is  produced  by 
adding  lampblack  rubbed  with  rosiu 
oil  in  the  proportion  of  2  pounds  to  100 
pounds  of  the  blue  grease. 

Patent  Palm  Oil  Wagon  Grease. 
Ten  pounds  of  rosin -oil  soap  are  melted 
with  a  like  quantity  of  palm  oil; 
550  pounds  of  rosin-oil  are  then  added, 
and  as  much  rosin-oil  soap  to  give 
the  whole  the  consistency  of  butter, 
and  finally  71  to  10  pounds  of  caustic 
soda-lye. 

Lubricant  from  Parciffine  Residues. 
The  thick  sediment  deposited  in  the 
manufacture  of  paraffine  is  used  as  a 
lubricant  on  account  of  its  cheapness 
and  longer  retention  of  its  fluidity  in 
the  cold.  It  is  thickened  by  being 
mixed  with  lead  soap.  Mixtures  of 
rosin-oil  or  rosin-oil  soap  and  petroleum, 
with  glycerine  also,  are  often  used  as 
lubricants. 

Consistent  Machine  Oil.  The  boiler 
used  for  manufacturing  consistent  ma- 
chine oil  should  have  a  capacity  of 
|  twice  the  quantity  of  ingredients  to  be 
I  boiled  in  it.  Ten  pounds  of  tallow  are 
j  melted  in  20  pounds  of  rape-seed  oil  in 
I  a  capacious  boiler  over  a  moderate  fire, 
;  and  10  pounds  of  lime  after  being  slaked 
;  in  5  gallons  of  water  poured  in.  In- 
crease the  fire  sufficient  to  boil  the  mass 
until  a  scum  arises  to  the  surface,  con- 
stantly stirring  to  prevent  burning, 
then  add  70  pounds  of  rape-seed  oil,  in 
10  pound  portions  at  a  time,  and  con- 
tinue the  boiling  over  a  moderate  fire 
until  a  homogeneous  mass  is  produced, 
samples  of  which  should  be  constantly 
taken  and  tested. 

When  the  sample  is  cool  enough 
touch  it  with  the  finger,  and  if  a  long 
thread  can  be  drawn  it  has  acquired 
the  proper  consistency.  Too  much  con- 
densation by  boiling  renders  the  mass 
insoluble  in  paraffine  oil  and  worthless. 
W'hen  at  a  proper  consistency,  stir  in 
gradually  100  pounds  of  heavy  yellow 
paraffine  oil,  and,  when  the  heat  has 
sufficiently  subsided,  which  is  tested  by 
dropping  a  few  drops  of  water  into  the 
boiler,  add  25  to  30  per  cent,  of  water. 
Increase  the  heat  and  boil  gently.  The 
fire  should  be  so  arranged  that  it  can  be 
reduced  on  the  instant,  and  a  ready  sup- 
ply of  cold  water  kept  on  hand  to  check 
excess  of  ebullition.  Five  hundred 
pounds  of  paraffine  oil  are  added  in 


LUBRICANTS  FOR  MACHINES,  WAGONS,  ETC. 


233 


portions  small  enough  not  to  interrupt 
the  boiling,  and  after  the  prior  portion 
has  been  amalgamated.  The  quantity 
of  paraffine  oil  may  be  increased  to  800 
or  900  pounds.  After  amalgamation 
of  all  the  paraffine  oil  allow  the  boiler 
to  cool,  and  remove  the  grease,  while 
still  warm,  into  an  agitator,  and  stir 
until  it  congeals.  Should  it  be  too 
stiff,  reduce  by  stirring  in  sufficient  oil 
to  attain  the  proper  consistency.  The 
odor  of  the  paraffine  oil  can  be  de- 
stroyed by  an  addition  of  mirbane  oil. 

A  Lubricant  for  Bells,  which  has 
stood  a  practical  test,  is  prepared  by 
heating  50  parts  of  linseed  oil  and  '24 
of  ordinary  turpentine  on  a  water-bath, 
and  adding  gradually  and  with  con- 
stant stirring  23  parts  of  rosin  finely 
pulverized,  and  finally  1.5  parts  of 
medium  fine  colcothar.  The  mixture 
is  then  allowed  to  cool. 

French's  Machine  Grease.  Mix  to- 
gether at  a  boiling  heat  1000  parts  of 
petroleum,  88  parts  of  graphite,  3  parts 
of  beeswax,  9  parts  of  tallow,  and  3 
parts  of  caustic  soda. 

Lubricant  for  Car  Axles.  Melt  to- 
gether at  a  moderate  heat  10  parts  of 
dark  ozocerite  and  2  to  4  of  heavy 
petroleum.  This  is  also  very  suitable 
for  heavy  wagons. 

Belgian  Wagon  Grease.  Melt  in  a 
large  open  boiler  30  parts  of  palm  oil 
and  12  of  tallow,  and  add  gradually  9 
.parts  of  soda-lye.  When  the  mass  com- 
mences to  thicken  add,  with  constant 
stirring,  8  to  10  parts  of  boiling  rain 
water,  let  the  mixture  stand  for  1  hour  j 
in  the  air,  then  pour  it  into  a  cooling 
vessel  and,  after  having  worked  it  thor-  : 
oughly  for  2  hours,  add  120  parts  of  cold 
rain  water. 

Excellent  Carriage  Grease.     Melt  in  ' 
an  open,  capacious  iron  boiler  over  a  j 
moderate  fire  1  part  of  red,  transparent  j 
rosin  and  1  of  rendered  tallow.     When  j 
the  melting  is  complete  add  gradually 
and  with  constant   stirring  1   part  of 
caustic  soda-lye.     When  the  mixture 
ceases  to  rise  add  1  part  of  linseed  oil  ; 
let  the  whole  boil  for  £    hour,  strain  ! 
while    boiling    hot    through   a  cotton  J 
cloth  into  a  clean  vessel,   and   let  it 
cool.     This  will  give  a  beautiful  lemon- 
colored,  buttery  grease  which  does  not 
gum. 

Lubricant  from  Oil  Residues*    Place 


in  a  boiler  of  the  right  capacity  500  parts 
of  oil  residue  and  100  parts  of  water, 
|  and  bring  them  slowly  to  the  boiling 
I  point.  When  all  the  oil  is  dissolved 
add  in  small  portions  40  to  50  parts  of 
hydrochloric  acid  of  8°  to  10°  B.  Then 
let  the  mixture  boil  and  stir  for  i  hour. 
After  this  time,  if  the  decomposition  is 
complete,  the  acid  forms  a  combination 
with  the  oil  residues  and  the  grease  is 
liberated  in  the  form  of  a  thick  oil. 
After  resting  for  24  hours  the  water  con- 
taining the  salts  and  excess  of  acid  is 
drawn  off,  and  the  oil  several  times 
washed  with  a  large  quantity  of  water 
to  free  it  from  the  last  traces  of  acid. 
It  is  finally  mixed  with  10,  20,  or  30 
per  cent,  of  tallow,  the  quantity  depend- 
ing on  the  thickness  of  the  oil. 

Pyroleine  (Lubrican  ( for  Mar.h  inery). 
Sixty  parts  of  crude  rape-seed  oil  are 
slowly  boiled  with  3.5  parts  of  red  lead 
until  the  latter,  which  floats  on  the  sur- 
face, has  become  entirely  brown.  After 
ascertaining  that  no  red  lead  remains  in 
the  mixture  it  is  allowed  to  cool  slowly 
and  decanted.  The  rape-seed  oil  thus 
purified  is  well  adapted  for  lubricating 
steam-engines  and  heavy  gears.  For  lu- 
bricating spindles  it  is'diluted  with  30 
to  50  per  cent,  of  mineral  oil  or  shale  oil. 

Thinly-fluid  Pyroleine.  Ten  gallons 
of  rape-seed  oil  are  gradually  heated  in 
a  copper  boiler  of  20  gallons,  capacity. 
The  boiling  is  continued  till  carbonic 
acid,  aeroleine,  and  other  decomposed 
gaseous  products  are  noticed.  After  i 
hour  finely-pulverized  minium  is  sifted 
upon  the  surface  of  the  oil,  the  oxidiz- 
ing effect  of  which  upon  the  albuminates 
of  the  oil  will  be  accompanied  by  the 
formation  of  a  white  froth.  The  heat- 
ing is  discontinued  as  soon  as  black 
lumps  show  themselves  upon  the  surface; 
the  oil  is  then  allowed  to  cool,  the  clear 
portion  poured  off  into  a  metal  vessel 
and  allowed  to  stand  quietly  until  en- 
tirely clear. 

Thickly-fluid  Pyroleine*  Twenty  gal- 
lons of  rape-seed  oil  are  heated  with 
2i  pounds  of  minium  and,  while  yet 
hot,  poured  into  a  metal  vessel  and 
mixed  with  mineral  oil,  shale  oil,  or 
any  other  very  thinly-fluid  oil  until 
the  pyroleine  'has  the  desired  consist- 
ency ;  for  instance,  that  of  a  fat  oil.  The 
oil  is  cleared  by  allowing  it  to  stand 
in  a  room  heated"  iu  winter  to  (J5°  F. 


234 


TECHNO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Metalline.  In  using  this  lubricant  for 
journals  no  grease  of  any  kind  is  re- 
quired. Metalline,  according  to  the  de- 
scriptions of  the  American  patent,  is 
very  ductile.  The  first  receipt  con- 
sists in  grinding  together  80  parts  of 
finely-ground  pock-wood  with  20  of  sper- 
maceti. There  are  13  more  receipts : 

I.  Eighty  parts  of  ivory  dust  and  20 
of  spermaceti. 

II.  Ninety-nine  parts  of  tin  and  1  of 
residue  of  petroleum. 

III.  Ninety-five  parts  of  zinc  and  5 
of  melted  caoutchouc. 

IV.  Ninety  parts  of  anthracite  and  10 
of  tallow  free  from  oil. 

V.  Ninety-eight  parts  of  bronze  (best 
of  93  per  cent,  of  copper,  6  per  cent,  of 
tin,  and  1  per  cent,  of  lead  or  zinc)  and 
2  of  melted  caoutchouc. 

VI.  Ninety-six   parts  of   type-metal 
and  4  of  melted  caoutchouc. 

VII.  Ninety-five  parts  of  oxide  of 
tin  and  5  of  beeswax. 

VIII.  Fifty  parts  of  iron,  i  of  par- 
affine,  and  50  of  tin. 

IX.  Eighty  parts  of  lead  and  20  of 
cannel  coal. 

X.  Ninety -two  parts  of  fresh  bones 
and  8  of  beeswax. 

XI.  Ninety  parts  of  prepared  alumina 
and  10  of  spermaceti. 

XII.  Ninety-five    parts    of    copper 
glance,  as  free  from  quartz  as  possible, 
and  5  of  melted  caoutchouc. 

XIII.  Eighty-six  parts  of  lead,  12  of 
lampblack,  and  2  of  beeswax. 

New  Lubricant  for  Machines,  from 
Sea-weed.  I.  Solid  Lubricant.  Boil 
carrageen  (Fucus  crispus]  to  a  thick 
jelly  and  mix  with  it  flour  in  the  pro- 
portion of  1  part  flour  to  30  of  jelly.  To 
15  parts  of  this  compound  add  in  the 
order  as  given  1  part  of  ordinary  soap, 
li  of  tallow,  both  in  a  fluid  state,  1  of 
palm  oil,  and  £  of  graphite.  In  place 
of  the  fatty  ingredients  the  following 
may  be  used  :  i  part  of  tallow,  f  of 
finely-pulverized  soapstone,  and  1  of 
ordinary  soda.  When  all  have  been 
melted  over  a  fire  and  thoroughly 
mixed  together  the  compound  is  poured 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  vigorously 
stirred  until  it  congeals. 

II.  Liquid  Lubricant.  The  above 
jelly  of  carrageen  is  also  the  basis  of 
this.  With  10  parts  of  it  are  mixed  8 
parts  of  lard  oil,  or  4  of  lard  oil  and  4  of 


rape-seed  oil,  \  of  pulverized  soapstone, 
and  J  of  solution  of  caustic  potash  of  10e 
B.  The  mixture  is,  with  constant  stir- 
ring, brought  to  the  boiling  point,  then 
passed  through  a  fine  sieve  and  stirred 
until  cold. 

Lubricating  Oil  for  Astronomical 
Instruments.  A  solution  of  1  part  of 
rosin  in  20  of  finest  olive  oil  is  espe- 
cially well  adapted  for  the  purpose.  It 
does  not  become  rancid  and  forms  no 
verdigris. 

VULCAN  OIL.  For  Spindles.  Ninety 
parts  of  distilled  oleine  free  from  min- 
eral acid,  and  10  of  purified  petroleum. 

For  Carding  Engines.  Ninety-five 
parts  of  distilled  oleine  free  from"  min- 
eral acid  and  5  of  purified  petroleum. 

For  Hydraulic  Motors.  Ninety  parts 
of  distilled  oleine  free  from  mineral  acid, 
5  of  lard,  2  each  of  purified  petroleum 
and  graphite. 

Machine-oil  from  Coal-tar  Varnish 
Oil.  Mix  intimately  25  parts  each  of 
purified  heavy  rosin  oil,  ordinary  olive 
oil,  and  varnish  oil,  and  keep  it  in  well- 
closed  tin  cans. 

Tuis  composition  is  a  very  fine  lubri- 
cant for  steam-engines,  valves,  etc.  It 
does  not  congeal  nor  gum,  but  the 
reverse,  dissolves  resinous  substances, 
and  leaves  no  unpleasant  odor.  It 
evolves  no  inflammable  vapors,  and 
does  not  attack  metals. 

Lubricant  for  Carriages  from  Coal- 
tar  Varnish  Oil.  Melt  in  a  shallow 
iron  boiler  5  parts  each  of  stearine  and 
tallow  and  1  part  of  parafline,  all  of  an 
inferior  quality,  then  add  20  parts  of 
heavy  rosin  oil  and  stir  the  compound 
until  it  begins  to  cool,  then  add  4  parts 
of  caustic  soda-lye  of  10°B.;  continue 
stirring  until  all  are  intimately  mixed, 
and  then  add  gradually  10  parts  of 
coal-tar  varnish  oil.  The  compound, 
when  it  has  assumed  the  consistency  of 
wagon-grease,  is  packed  in  boxes.  In 
summer  it  may  be  necessary  to  increase 
the  quantity  of  stearine  and  tallow 
somewhat,  to  prevent  the  fat  from  pen- 
etrating through  the  boxes. 

Persoz's  Patent  Wagon-grease. 
Heavy  parafline  oil,  rosin  oil,  tallow, 
of  each  60  parts,  and  oleic  acid  30  parts. 
Melt  the  tallow  by  heating  it  in  the  oils, 
and  saponify  the  mixture  by  adding  15 
parts  of  finely-pulverized  burned  lime 
and  6  parts  of  soda-lye  of  40°  B. 


MARINE  GLUE. 


235 


Oil  for  Watch-makers.  It  is  best  to 
use  the  purest  olive  oil,  after  it  has 
been  stored  for  some  time,  and  expose  it 
to  a  temperature  a  few  degrees  below 
the  freezing  point,  which  will  cause  all 
foreign  substances  to  separate.  The 
supernatant  clear  oil  is  then  carefully 
poured  off  and  filtered  through  a  cup 
of  linden  wood  or  pit  of  elder  wood. 
By  this  process  an  oil  is  obtained  which 
will  remain  liquid  for  several  years, 
and  does  not  attack  the  delicate 
machinery. 

Neat's-foot  oil  treated  in  the  above 
manner  furnishes  a  less  useful  oil,  since 
it  loses  much  fatty  matter  by  exposure 
to  cold. 

A  very  useful  oil  is  obtained  by  dis- 
solving 1  part  of  pure  neat's-foot  oil  in 
3  of  pure  benzine.  Allow  the  com- 
pound to  remain  for  several  days  in  a 
closed  vessel,  then  filter  and  expose  the 
solution  to  a  temperature  of  40°  F.,  at 
which  it  is  again  filtered  and  the  ben- 
zine distilled  off.  The  oil  should  be 
kept  in  small,  dark  vials  protected  from 
the  air. 

A  very  fine  lubricant  for  clocks  and 
watches  is,  according  to  Artemus,  ob- 
tained by  mixing  2  parts  of  solar  oil 
and  1  of  rape-seed  oil. 

To  Test  the  Fitness  of  Oils  for  Lubri- 
cating Watches  and  Clocks,  pour  a  drop 
of  the  oil  to  be  tested  upon  different 
metal  plates,  as  iron,  brass,  tin,  lead, 
etc.,  keep  them  in  a  place  free  from 
dust,  and  examine  the  drops  during  8 
to  14  days  in  regard  to  their  liquidity. 
Oil  remaining  liquid  after  the  lapse  of 
this  time  can  be  safely  used. 


MARINE  GLUE. 

This  glue  is  water-proof  and  can  be 
used  to  cement  metal,  wood,  glass, 
stone,  pasteboard,  etc.,  and  is  especially 
adapted  for  calking  vessels. 

Hard  Marine  Glue.  Suspend  10 
parts  of  caoutchouc  enclosed  in  a  linen 
bag  in  a  vessel  containing  120  parts  of 
refined  petroleum,  so  that  only  i  of  the 
bag  is  immersed,  and  allow  it  to  remain 
10  to  14  days  in  a  warm  place.  Then 
melt  20  parts  of  asphaltum  in  an  iron 
boiler,  and  add  the  caoutchouc  solution 
in  a  thin  jet,  and  heat  the  mixture, 
while  constantly  stirring,  until  it  is 


perfectly  homogeneous.  Pour  it  into 
greased  metallic  moulds,  where  it  forms 
into  dark-brown  or  black  plates  diffi- 
cult to  break.  When  it  is  to  be  used  it 
should  be  melted  in  a  kettle  placed  in 
boiling  water  to  prevent  its  burning, 
which  it  is  very  apt  to  do,  as  it  is  a  bad 
conductor  of  heat.  After  it  has  been 
liquefied,  remove  the  kettle  from  the 
water  and  place  it  over  a  fire,  where  it 
can  be  heated,  if  necessary  to  make  it 
more  fluid,  to  300°  F.,  carefully  stirring 
it  to  prevent  burning. 

If  possible,  the  surfaces  to  be  glued 
together  should  be  heated  to  212°  F., 
as  the  glue  can  then  be  slowly  applied. 
The  thinner  the  layer  of  glue  in  ce- 
menting together  smooth  surfaces,  the 
better  it  will  adhere.  But  a  somewhat 
thicker  layer  is  required  for  rough 
surfaces  (for  instance,  boards  not 
planed),  the  excess  of  glue  being  forced 
out  by  strong  pressure.  Generally 
speaking  it  is  best  to  subject  all  articles 
cemented  together  by  marine  glue  to  as 
strong  a  pressure  as  possible  until  the 
glue  is  congealed. 

We  are  fully  convinced  by  experi- 
ments that,  with  the  aid  of  this  glue, 
square  vats,  perfectly  water-tight,  can 
be  constructed  from  boards.  Wooden 
pins  dipped  in  the  marine  glue  should 
be  used  for  putting  the  vats  together. 

Elastic  Marine  Glue.  This  is  a  solu- 
tion of  caoutchouc  in  a  suitable  solvent, 
as  benzole,  bisulphide  of  carbon,  naph- 
tha, or  chloroform,  principally  used 
for  coating  ropes  and  other  materials 
exposed  to  the  alternate  action  of 
air  and  water.  It  can  be  cheapened 
by  adding  very  fine  sand  or  whit- 
ing. 

Marine  Glue  for  Damp  Walls.  Dis- 
solve 10  parts  of  caoutchouc,  10  of 
whiting,  20  of  oil  of  turpentine,  10  of 
bisulphide  of  carbon,  5  of  rosin,  and  5 
of  asphaltum  in  a  suitable  vessel  situ- 
ated in  a  warm  place  and  frequently 
shaken.  Scrape  the  wall  smooth  and 
clean,  and  apply  the  glue  with  a  broad 
brush  to  the  wall  on  the  damp  place, 
and  about  8  inches  higher  than  the  line 
of  dampness,  and  before  the  glue  is  dry 
lay  on  plain  paper,  which  will  adhere 
tightly.  On  this  plain  paper  the  wall- 
paper can  be  pasted  in  the  usual  man- 
ner. If  carefully  done  the  wall-paper 
will  always  remain  dry. 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


MATCHES. 

Swedish  Matches  are  made  in  Swe- 
den almost  exclusively  of  white  poplar 
wood,  it  being  the  cheapest.  Blocks 
of  the  length  of  the  match  are  cut  by 
machinery  from  the  round  logs  and 
splintered,  the  splints  kiln-dried  and 
coated  with  paraffine.  The  end  to  be 
covered  with  the  inflammable  com- 
pound is  dipped  in  a  solution  of  paraf- 
fine in  benzine,  when  they  are  again 
dried.  They  are  then  dipped  into  the 
inflammable  compound,  which  should 
be  of  such  a  consistency  that  only  small 
drops  remain  adhering  to  the  stick. 
The  following  mixtures  are  used  : 

PARTS. 

T      n~   IIL    iv? 

Chlorate  of  potassium  2000  2000  2000  4000 

Plumbic  dioxide     .     .  1150  21.00 

Minium 'Z500  2500  2000  4000 

Antimony  trisulphido  1250  1250  1300  3000 

Chroraate  of  potassium  1318  750  1500 

Gum-Arabic  ....  670  670  670  670 

Paraffine 250  250 

In  Nos.  I.  and  II.  the  paraffine  is  first 
rubbed  up  with  the  antimony  and 
then  incorporated  with  the  compound. 
The  compound  ignites  easily  and  trans- 
mits the  flame  quickly  to  the  wood. 
Matches  with  compound  No.  II.  ig- 
nite well  and  burn  quietly.  Matches 
with  No.  III.  ignite  easily  on  the 
striking  surface  and  quickly  transmit 
the  flame  to  the  wood.  Compound 
No.  IV.  furnishes  matches  exactly  like 
those  of  the  Jonkoping  product;  they 
ignite  easily  on  the  striking  surface, 
transmit  the  flame  quickly  to  the  wood, 
burn  quietly  and  without  noise.  The 
brown  color  of  Swedish  matches  is  due 
to  the  antimony  trisulphide  in  the  com- 
pound. 

Striking  Surface  of  Sivedish  Matches 
consists  of  a  compound  prepared  by 
mixing  9  parts  of  amorphous  phos- 
phorus, 7  of  iron  pyrites  pulverized 
and  sifted,  3  of  pulverized  glass,  and  1 
of  glue  or  gum  with  the  requisite  quan- 
tity of  water. 

Mutches  ivithout  Sulphur,  which  can 
be  ignited  by  friction  on  any  surface 
and  do  not  absorb  moisture  from  the 
air,  are  prepared  by  dipping  the 
matches  into  a  hot  solution  of  any  kind 
of  fat,  and  using  the  following  iuflam- 


i  mable  compound  :  Seven  parts  of  phos- 
I  phorus,  7  of    gum-Arabic,  40  of  lead 
!  nitrate,  5  of  pulverized  glass,  and  10  of 
water. 

Inflammable  Compounds.  H.Schwarz 
recommends  the  following  mixtures  as 
giving  excellent  results:  I.  One  part  of 
pulverized  sulphur  is  melted  in  warm 
water  with  4  of  yellow  phosphorus. 
Most  of  the  water  is  then  poured  off 
and  the  fluid  mixture  rubbed  inti- 
mately with  4  parts  of  dextrine  gum. 
Now  compound  45  parts  of  minium 
with  li  equivalent  of  nitric  acid,  dry 
the  mixture,  pulverize  it,  and  add  it 
gradually  to  the  phosphorus  mixture. 
The  matches  are  saturated  with  solu- 
tion of  pine  rosin  in  alcohol,  and  dried 
at  a  moderate  heat. 

II.  Mix  1  part  of  phosphorus,  5  of 
chalk,  2.8  of  anhydrous  gypsum,  6  of 
pulverized  glass,  and  G  of  some  aggluti- 
nant  and  coloring  matter.  This  com- 
pound requires  a  rough  striking  sur- 
face, ignites  with  a  slight  report,  and 
does  not  absorb  moisture. 

Inflammable  Compound  without 
Phosphorus.  Thirty-six  parts  of 
plumbic  dioxide,  15  of  chlorate  of 
potassium,  9  of  manganese  dioxide,  8 
of  flowers  of  sulphur,  6  each  of  infu- 
sorial earth,  pulverized  glass  or  sand 
and  amorphous  phosphorus,  and  8  of 
glue. 

The  compound  ignites  by  friction  on 
any  surface. 

Parlor  Matches.  The  sticks  are  first 
thoroughly  dried,  then  soaked  with 
Btearic  acid,  and  finally  dipped  into  an 
inflammable  compound  prepared  from 
3  parts  of  phosphorus,  i  of  gum  traga- 
canth,  3  of  water,  2  of  fine  sand,  and  2 
of  red  lead.  To  perfume  the  matches 
they  are  dipped,  after  the  compound  is 
dry,  into  a  solution  of  aromatic  gum, 
made  of  4  parts  of  benzoin  in  10  of 
spirit  of  wine  of  40°  B. 

Colored  Parlor  Matches.  The  in- 
flammable compound  on  the  end  of  the 
matches  may  be  coated  with  different 
colored  lacquers  to  give  a  variegated 
appearance  when  placed  in  boxes. 

The  lacquers  are  prepared  in  the 
following  manner :  Eight  parts  of  pul- 
verized rosin  are  dissolved  in  a  hot 
mixture  of  200  parts  of  alcohol  aud 
4  parts  of  glycerine,  and  40  parts  of 
solution  of  shellac  added  to  the  hot 


MATCHES. 


237 


Solution.  The  whole  is  then  thoroughly 
agitated  and,  while  yet  warm,  coin- 
pounded  with  the  necessary  quantity 
of  coloring  matter,  and  finally  allowed 
to  cool. 

The  green  iridescent  bronze  color, 
•which  is  in  great  demand,  requires  for 
the  above  solution  of  lacquer  80  parts 
of  crystallized  fuchsine,  or  28  parts  of 
methyl-violet.  To  produce  violet  an 
addition  of  only  £  part  of  methyl-violet 
is  required  ;  for  blue  f  part  of  aniline 
blue  soluble  in  water;  for  orange  4 

rrts  of  aniline  orange ;  for  blue-green 
part  of  methyl-green.  For  yellow- 
green  2  parts  of  blue-green  are  mixed 
with  1  of  orange ;  and  for  red  32  parts 
of  coralline  with  an  addition  of  2  parts 
of  caustic  soda-lye,  dissolved  in  the 
above  lacquer. 

All  these  colors  cover  easily  the  head 
of  the  match,  and,  when  dry,  possess 
the  brilliant  gloss  desired. 

A ,tti-phos/)'iorus  Matches.  The  paste 
for  the  friction  surface  consists  of 
minium,  sand,  and  amorphous  phos- 
phorus rubbed  up  with  a  solution  of 
gum-Arabic  and  applied  with  a  brush  ; 
or  of  10  parts  of  amorphous  phosphorus, 
8  of  pyrolusite  or  antimony  trisulphide, 
and  3  to  G  of  glue  dissolved  in  water. 
To  prepare  the  matches  the  ends  are 
first  dipped  into  melted  sulphur,  stearic 
acid,  or  wax,  and  then  into  a  compound 
of  tj  parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium  and 
2  to  3  of  trisulphide  of  antimony  mixed 
with  a  solution  of  1  part  of  glue  in 
water.  It  must  be  remarked  here  that 
the  mixture  of  bichromate  of  potassium 
and  antimony  is  exceedingly  danger- 
ous, as  it  is  easily  ignited  by  a  shock  or 
friction. 

Matches  Inextinguishable  by  the 
Wind.  Sheets  of  paper,  thin  paste- 
board, or  wood  are  saturated  with  a 
solution  of  saltpetre  in  water  to  which 
has  been  added  some  substance  emitting 
an  agreeable  odor  while  burning.  When 
the  sheets  are  dry,  a  thin  layer  of  a 
phosphorus  compound,  as  is  used  in 
the  manufacture  of  friction  matches, 
and  to  which  some  incombustible  sub- 
stance, as  pulverized  glass,  fine  sand, 
etc.,  has  been  added,  is  placed  between 
two  of  them,  leaving  a  part  of  one  end 
free  for  handling.  When  dry  the  2 
sheets  are  pasted  together,  and  this  is 
cut  up  into  strips  of  suitable  shape. 


These  strips  are  then  coated  with  a 
varnish  to  protect  them  from  moisture 
and  to  prevent  their  ignition  by  friction 
during  transportation,  etc.  Colored 
varnish  may  be  used  to  distinguish  the 
part  containing  the  phosphorus  from 
the  ends  of  the  sheet  left  uncoated. 

Matches  without  Phosphorus.  Pre- 
pare a  paste  of  10  parts  of  dextrine,  75 
of  pulverized  chlorate  of  potassium,  35 
of  pulverized  plumbic  dioxide,  and  a 
like  quantity  of  pulverized  pyrites  with 
the  necessary  quantity  of  water,  and 
dip  the  end  of  the  splints  into  the  com- 
pound. 

Matches  without  Phosphorus,  of  an 
excellent  quality,  and  in  the  manufact- 
ure of  which  there  is  not  the  slightest 
danger,  are  obtained  from  the  follow- 
ing "mixture:  53.8  parts  of  chlorate 
of  potassium,  10  of  gum-Arabic,  3  of 
gum  tragacanth,  6  of  pyrolusite,  6  of 
ferric  oxide,  12  of  pulverized  glass,  5 
of  bichromate  of  potassium,  3  of  sul- 
phur, 1.2  of  chalk,  and  sufficient  water. 

Paraffine  or  sulphur  is  used  for  trans- 
mitting the  flame  to  the  wood.  The 
matches  can  only  be  ignited  by  being 
struck  on  a  surface  composed  of  the 
following  mixture:  Five  parts  of  anti- 
mony trisulphide,  3  of  amorphous  phos- 
phorus, 14  of  pyrolusite,  and  4  of  glue. 

Amorces  d'Allumcttes  are  matches 
prepared  from  20  parts  of  phosphorus, 
5.5  of  gun-cotton,  5  of  pulverized  wood 
charcoal,  5  of  iron  filings,  51.5  of  sul- 
phur, and  10  of  gum. 

J\Tick/e's  Process  of  Preparing  an 
Amorphous  Phosphorus  from  the  Ordi- 
nary Article.  The  conversion  of  ordi- 
nary into  amorphous  phosphorus  is  ac- 
complished by  heating  ordinary  phos- 
phorus from  446°  to  482°  F.  in  a  closed 
iron  boiler.  After  3  or  4  weeks  the 
phosphorus  is  found  to  be  converted 
into  a  red,  brittle  mass  which  is  ground 
by  millstones  under  water,  and  sepa- 
rated from  the  ordinary  phosphorus 
either  by  bisulphide  of  carbon  or  caustic 
soda,  in.  which  the  latter  is  soluble. 
The  temperature  requires  careful  regu- 
lation, for  if  it  is  allowed  to  rise  to  500° 
F.  the  amorphous  phosphorus  quickly 
resumes  the  ordinary  condition,  evolv- 
ing the  heat  which  it  had  absorbed  dur- 
ing its  conversion,  and  thus  converting 
much  of  the  phosphorus  into  vapor. 
This  reconversion  may  be  shown  by 


238 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


heating  a  little  amorphous  phosphorus 
in  a  test-tube,  when  drops  of  ordinary 
phosphorus  condense  on  the  cool  part 
of  the  tube.  Ordinary  phosphorus  is 
very  poisonous,  while  amorphous 
phosphorus  appears  to  be  harmless. 
The  vapor  of  phosphorus  produces  a 
Very  injurious  effect  upon  the  persons 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  matches, 
resulting  in  the  decay  of  the  lower  jaw. 
This  evil  may  be  greatly  mitigated  by 
good  ventilation  or  by  diffusing  turpen- 
tine vapor  through  the  air  of  the  work- 
room, or  may  be  entirely  obviated  by 
substituting  amorphous  phosphorus  for 
the  ordinary  variety. 


METAL  INDUSTRY. 

To  Harden  Cast  Iron.  Mix  2  pounds 
of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  and  2 
ounces  of  nitric  acid  with  2£  gallons  of 
water.  Immerse  the  article  at  a  cherry- 
red  heat  in  this  mixture.  The  surface 
becomes  very  hard. 

To  Give  Iron  Articles  a  Brilliant 
Lustre  and  Silvery  Appearance.  Pour 
1  pint  of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent,  over  f 
ounce  of  antimony  trichloride  (butter 
of  antimony),  1£  drachms  of  pulverized 
arsenious  acid,  and  l£  ounces  of  elutri- 
ated bloodstone,  and  digest  the  whole 
at  a  moderate  heat,  frequently  shaking 
it.  In  polishing  the  articles  with  this 
fluid  a  thin  film  of  antimony  and  arsenic 
is  precipitated  upon  them,  which  gives 
a  beautiful  appearance  to  the  surface 
and  protects  it  against  oxidation. 

To  Restore  Burnt  Cast  Steel.  Heat 
the  article  to  a  red  heat  and  dust  it 
with  a  mixture  of  8  parts  of  red  chromate 
of  potassium,  4  of  saltpetre,  £  each  of 
aloes  and  gum-Arabic,  and  i  of  rosin. 
Then  heat  it  several  times  and  cool  it. 
If  the  article  is  to  be  especially  hard 
take  8  parts  of  saltpetre  and  3  of 
rosin. 

To  Make  Steel  so  Soft  that  it  can  be 
Worked  like  Copper.  Pulverize  beef 
bones,  mix  them  with  equal  parts  of 
loam  and  calves'  hair,  and  stir  the  mixt- 
ure into  a  thick  paste  with  water.  Ap- 
ply a  coat  of  this  to  the  steel  and  place 
it  in  a  crucible,  cover  this  with  another, 
fasten  the  two  together  with  wire,  and 
close  the  joint  hermetically  with  clay. 
Then  place  the  crucibles  in  the  fire  and 


heat  them  slowly.  When  taken  from 
the  fire  let  them  cool  by  placing  them 
in  ashes.  On  opening  the  crucibles  the 
steel  will  be  found  so  soft  that  it  can  be 
engraved  like  copper. 

Welding  Steel  to  Cast  Iron  may  be 
accomplished  by  first  shaping  the  steel 
so  that  it  will  correspond  to  the  surface 
of  the  cast  iron  to  which  it  is  to  be 
welded  without  forming  a  lap,  then 
heating  to  a  cherry-red,  next  applying 
borax  to  the  surfaces  to  be  united,  and 
immediately  heating  the  parts  to  a 
welding  heat,  after  which  a  strong  press- 
ure applied  without  hammering  will 
securely  join  the  steel  to  the  iron. 

Hardening  and  Welding  Compounds. 
I.  Hardening  Compound.  Pulverize 
and  mix  intimately  1  part  of  prussiate 
of  potash,  1  of  purified  saltpetre,  1  of 
calcined  cows'  hoofs,  &  of  gum-Arabic, 
&  of  aloes,  and  i  of  common  salt.  Scat- 
ter the  compound  upon  the  steel  while 
at  a  red  heat  and  upon  the  wrought 
iron  while  at  a  white  heat,  and  burn  it 
thoroughly  in.  After  cooling  the  hard- 
ened parts  will  be  as  hard  as  steel. 

II.  Welding  Compound  for  welding 
wrought  iron  to  wrought  iron  at  a  red 
heat :  1  part  by  weight  of  borax,  i  of  sal- 
ammoniac,  and  i  of  water.     Boil  these 
ingredients,  with  constant  stirring,  until 
the  mixture  is  stiff,  and  then  allow  it  to 
harden  over  the  fire.     When  cool  the 
compound  is  pulverized  and  intimately 
mixed  with  i  part  of  wrought-iron  fil- 
ings free  from  rust.    The  pieces  to  be 
welded  together  are  first  dovetailed  or 
tied  together,  and  the  place  to  be  welded 
is  made  red  hot;  the  powder  is  then 
scattered  upon  it  and  liquefied  over  the 
fire.    A  few  light  taps  with  the  hammer 
suffice  to  join  the  two  pieces  together. 

III.  Welding    Compound    to     Weld 
Steel  to  Wrought  Iron  at  a  Red  Heat. 
Pulverize  and  mix  Avith  water  6  parts 
by  weight  of  borax,  2  of  sal-ammoniac, 
1  of  prussiate  of  potash,  and  i  of  rosin. 
Boil    the    compound,   stirring  it  con- 
stantly,  until   it   forms    a  stiff  paste, 
which  is  allowed  to  harden  over  the 
fire.    When  cold  pulverize  it  and  mix 
it  with  1   part  of  wrought-iron  filings 
free  from  rust.     In  using  it  scatter  the 
powder   upon  the  red-hot  pieces  and 
liquefy  it  over  the  fire. 

IV.  Welding    Compound    to     Weld 
Wrought  Iron,  to  Wrought  Iron  at  a 


METAL  INDUSTRY. 


239 


White  Heat.  Pulverize  and  mix  1 
part  by  weight  of  sal-ammoniac,  2  of 
borax,  2  of  prussiate  of  potash,  and  4 
of  wrought-iron  filings  free  from  rust. 
Heat  the  pieces  to  be  welded  together 
to  a  white  heat,  then  scatter  the  powder 
2  or  3  times  upon  the  proper  place, 
and  liquefy  it.  Two  or  3  vigorous  taps 
with  the  hammer  will  then  suffice  to 
join  the  pieces. 

V.  Hardening  Compound  to  Make 
Wro ught Iron  Very  H< ird.  Cut  i nto  small 
pieces  1  part  by  weight  of  cow  or  horse's 
hoof  and  2  of  old  leather,  and  add  ^  of 
common  salt.  These  ingredients  are 
placed  in  a  heating-box  together  with 
the  pieces  to  be  hardened.  The  box  is 
hermetically  closed  with  clay  and  heated 
for  1  hour  at  a  red  heat,  when  the  pieces 
are  taken  out  and  cooled  in  cold  water. 

Welding  Cant  Steel.  Take  64  parts 
of  borax,  20  of  sal-ammoniac,  10  of 
ferrocyanide  of  potassium,  and  5  of 
rosin.  The  whole  is  boiled  with  the 
addition  of  some  water,  under  constant 
stirring,  until  a  homogeneous  compound 
is  formed,  which  is  allowed  to  dry  out 
slowly  in  the  same  iron  vessel  in  which 
it  has  been  boiled.  An  analysis  of  a 
sample  of  this  welding  compound 
formed  the  basis  for  the  composition 
of  the  following  compound,  which  is 
highly  recommended.  The  welding  is 
accomplished  at  a  light-yellow  heat,  or 
between  that  and  a  white  heat,  and,  as 
the  quality  of  the  steel  is  not  in  the  least 
affected,  it  needs  no  further  treatment. 
The  compound  is  composed  of  61  parts 
of  borax,  17i  of  sal-ammoniac,  16^  of 
ferrocyanide  of  potassium,  and  5  of 
rosin.  For  welding  steel  to  steel  less 
of  the  ferrocyanide  may  be  used.  The 
borax  and  sal-ammoniac  are  pulverized, 
mixed,  and  gradually  heated  in  a 
porcelain  or  iron  vessel,  until  both  melt 
in  the  water  of  crystallization  of  the 
first.  A  strong  odor  of  ammonia  is  de- 
veloped. The  heating  is  continued, 
under  constant  stirring,  until  the  odor 
of  ammonia  is  scarcely  perceptible, 
water  being  added  from  time  to  time  to 
replace  that  lost  by  evaporation.  The 
pulverized  ferrocyanide  and  the  rosin 
are  then  added,  and  the  heating  con- 
tinued, under  constant  stirring,  until  a 
thick  paste  has  been  formed. 

As  soon  as  a  weak  odor  of  cyanide  is 
perceptible  the  heating  is  interrupted, 


as  otherwise  the  boric  acid  would  exert 
a  decomposing  effect  upon  the  ferro- 
cyanide of  potassium.  The  thick  paste 
is  spread  upon  a  sheet-iron  plate  in  a 
layer  at  the  utmost  i  inch  thick,  and 
dried  at  a  very  moderate  heat.  To 
facilitate  the  drying,  the  paste  is  loos- 
ened and  turned  with  a  spatula,  so  that 
lumps  are  formed,  which  are  stored 
away.  When  it  is  to  be  used  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  one  of  the  lumps  is 
pulverized  and  scattered  upon  the 
article  to  be  welded,  which  has  been 
heated  to  a  light-red  heat.  It  is  then 
heated  to  a  strong  yellow  heat  and  the 
welding  accomplished  in  the  usual 
manner. 

In  the  above  compound,  and  manner 
of  preparing  it,  boracic  acid  and  com- 
mon salt  are  formed  from  the  borax 
and  sal-ammoniac,  while  ammonia  es- 
capes. The  welding  compound  can 
therefore  be  directly  prepared  by  mix- 
ing the  following  ingredients :  41.5  parts 
of  boracic  acid,  35  of  pure,  dry,  common 
salt,  15.5  to  26.7  of  ferrocyanide  of 
potassium,  7.6  of  rosin,  and  perhaps  3 
to  5  of  dry  carbonate  of  sodium. 

This  mixture  does  excellent  service, 
is,  in  fact,  as  good  as  the  above  com- 
pound and  far  easier  prepared.  It  has 
only  the  disadvantage  of  not  remaining 
entirely  unaltered  if  kept  for  any  length 
of  time,  but  gradually  decomposes  and 
assumes  a  blue  color.  But  this,  as  the 
compound  is  so  easily  prepared,  is  a 
minor  evil. 

To  Harden  Files  and  other  Steel 
Instruments.  The  files,  etc.,  are  first 
coated  with  a  paste  prepared  by  boil- 
ing glue  and  salt  in  yeast,  and  thickened 
by  an  addition  of  wood  charcoal  and 
graphite  (black  lead).  Upon  this  coat 
is  scattered  a  coarse  powder  consisting 
of  a  mixture  of  horn,  wood  charcoal, 
and  common  salt.  A  solid  crust  is 
formed  upon  the  files  which  protects 
them  from  a  displacement  of  the  cuts 
by  the  metal  and  conveys  to  them  oxy- 
gen while  being  heated.  For  tempering, 
the  files  are  brought  into  a  lead  bath. 
To  prevent  the  oxidation  of  the  Jead  on 
the  surface  a  mixture  of  potash,  soda, 
and  tartar  is  scattered  upon  it.  The 
files  remain  in  the  bath  from  5  to  8 
minutes,  according  to  their  thickness, 
and  are  then  immersed  in  water. 

To  He-sharpen    Files.      Well-worn 


240 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


files  are  first  carefully  cleansed  with 
hot  water  and  soda;  they  are  then 
brought  into  connection  with  the  posi- 
tive pole  of  a  battery,  in  a  bath  com- 
posed of  40  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  and 
1000  of  water.  The  negative  is  formed 
of  a  copper  spiral  surrounding  the  files 
but  not  touching  them;  the  coil  ter- 
minating in  a  wire  which  rises  to  the 
surface.  This  arrangement  is  the  result 
of  practical  experience.  When  the 
files  have  been  in  the  bath  for  10  min- 
utes they  are  taken  out,  washed,  and 
dried,  when  the  whole  of  the  hollows 
will  be  found  to  have  been  attacked  in 
a  sensible  manner;  but  should  the  effect 
not  be  sufficient,  they  are  replaced  in 
the  bath  for  the  same  period  as  before. 
Sometimes  two  operations  are  necessary, 
but  seldom  more.  The  files  thus 
treated  are  to  all  appearance  like  new 
ones  and  good  for  60  hours'  work. 

Hardening  Compound  for  Thin  SteeL 
Dr.  Harlmann  recommends  to  add 
about  1  pound  of  rosin  to  the  usual 
mixture,  composed  of  1  gallon  of  train 
oil,  2  pounds  of  beef  suet,  and  44  ounces 
of  wax.  He  also  recommends  another 
compound,  consisting  of  95  parts  of 
spermaceti  oil,  10  of  melted  tallow,  4V 
of  neat's- foot  oil,  4  of  pitch,  and  14  of 
rosin. 

New  Process  of  Hardening  Gun- 
barrels.  The  barrel  to  be  hardened  is 
placed  in  a  gas-pipe  of  suitable  size,  the 
lower  end  of  which  is  made  narrow  to 
prevent  the  barrel  from  slipping  out 
while  in  a  vertical  position.  Several 
of  such  pipes  containing  gun-barrels 
are  then  heated  to  a  red  heat  in  a  re- 
yerberatory  furnace,  when  some  harden- 
ing compound  is  thrown  into  every  bar- 
rel. The  pipes  are  now  taken  from  the 
furnace,  placed  in  a  vertical  position 
tinder  a  hose,  and  hardening  water  is 
passed  through  each  barrel  under  a 
pressure  of  4  to  5  atmosphere.  It  is 
very  suitable  to  add  a  small  quantity  of 
sulphuric  and  nitric  acids  to  the  hard- 
ening water. 

To  Harden  Steel  in  Sealing-wax. 
Watch  and  clock-makers  and  engravers 
harden  their  steel  in  sealing  wax.  The 
article  is  heated  to  a  white  heat  and 
thrust  into  sealing-wax,  allowed  to  re- 
main for  a  second,  then  withdrawn,  and 
again  inserted  in  another  part.  This 
treatment  is  continued  till  the  steel  is 


cold  and  will  no  more  enter  the  sealing- 
wax.  The  extreme  hardness  of  steel 
thus  prepared  enables  it  to  engrave  or 
bore  steel  hardened  by  other  processes, 
the  boring  or  engraving  tool  being  first 
dipped  in  oil  of  turpentine. 

Hardening  Water.  Two  quarts  of 
water,  1  quart  of  urine,  U  ounces  of 
saltpetre,  2  ounces  of  common  salt,  and 
4  ounce  of  sal-ammoniac. 

Poncelet's  Fluids/or  Hardening  Steel 
Articles,  I.  Ten  pounds  of  rosin,  5 
pounds  of  train  oil,  2  pounds  of  lard, 
and  44  ounces  of  assafcetida.  By  using 
this  bath  the  steel,  even  if  frequently 
heated,  retains  its  former  peculiarities. 

II.  This  is  especially  used  for  harden- 
ing cutlery.     Two  pounds  of  refined 
borax,   4  pounds  of  sal-ammoniac,   3 
quarts  of  water,  and  4  ounces  of  French 
red  wine. 

III.  Three  pounds  of  sal-ammoniac, 
1  pound  of  potash,  4  gallons  of  water, 
14  pints  of  red  wine  or  wine  vinegar, 
and  1  pound  of  tartaric  acid. 

New  Case-hardening  Compound. 
This  compound  is  very  efficacious  for 
case-hardening  iron.  It  consists  of  16 
parts  of  lampblack,  18  of  sal-soda,  4  of 
muriate  of  soda,  and  1  of  black  oxide 
of  manganese. 

To  Obtain  Smooth  Castings  it  is 
highly  recommended  to  mix  with  the 
green  sand  forming  the  mould  about 
•£-$  part  of  tar.  The  mixture  is  em- 
ployed without  the  addition  of  any 
other  substance. 

To  Harden  Saws  and  Springs.  The 
following  composition  is  highly  recom- 
mended: Four  and  a  half  pounds  of 
suet  and  8f  ounces  of  beeswax  are 
boiled  with  2i  gallons  of  whale  oil. 
This  will  serve  for  thin  articles  and 
most  kinds  of  steel.  For  thicker  pieces 
about  2i  pounds  of  black  rosin  is  added 
to  the  above  compound,  but  it  should 
be  judiciously  added,  or  the  articles 
will  become  too  hard  and  brittle.  The 
usual  way  of  proceeding  is  to  heat  the 
saws  in  long  furnaces  and  then  to  im- 
merse them  horizontally  and  edgewise 
in  a  long  trough  containing  the  com- 
position. Two  troughs  are  generally 
used  alternately.  Part  of  the  com- 
pound is  wiped  off  with  a  piece  of 
leather  when  the  articles  are  removed 
from  the  trough.  They  are  then  heated 
one  by  one  over  a  clear  coke  fire  until 


METAL   INDUSTRY. 


241 


the  grease  inflames ;  this  is  called 
"  Mazing  off."  When  the  saws  are 
wanted  to  be  rather  hard,  but  little  of 
the  grease  is  burned  off;  when  less,  a 
large  portion  ;  and  for  a  spring  temper 
the  whole  is  allowed  to  burn  away. 
When  the  work  is  thick  or  irregularly 
thick  and  thin,  as  in  some  springs,  a 
second  and  third  application  is  burned 
off  to  insure  equality  of  temper  at  all 
places. 

To  Convert  Iron  into  Steel.  J.  H. 
Wilson,  of  Liverpool,  uses  the  follow- 
ing process  which  he  has  patented  in 
England  :  Fo rty-six  pounds  of  wrought- 
iron  waste,  2  pounds  of  spiegel  iron,  i 
of  ferro-manganese,  and  6  ounces  of 
wood  charcoal  are  melted  together ;  to 
this  may  be  added  £  ounce  of  borax 
and  i  ounce  of  chlorate  of  potassium. 

Hard  Silver .  By  melting  together 
100  parts  of  silver,  3.5  parts  of  iron,  2 
parts  of  cobalt,  and  i  part  of  nickel,  a 
compound  is  obtained  which,  by  cool- 
ing in  cold  water,  becomes  hard  as 
glass,  and  in  hot  water  as  hard  as  spring 
steel. 

Malleable  Brass.  Thirty-three  parts 
of  copper  are  liquefied  in  a  loosely- 
covered  crucible,  and  25  parts  of  puri- 
fied zinc  added  under  constant  stirring. 
The  zinc  must  be  as  free  from  iron  as 
possible,  and  the  copper  from  lead. 
The  alloy  is  cast  in  moulding  sand  into 
bars.  It  is  easily  wrought  at  a  red 
heat ;  in  a  cold  state  it  can  be  stretched 
under  the  hammer;  at  a  white  heat  it 
spits  (scatters)  under  the  hammer. 

Very  Tenacious  Urass  is  prepared 
from  54  parts  of  copper  and  46  of  zinc, 
but  both  metals  must  be  absolutely  free 
from  tin  and  lead. 

Steel  Wire  for  Musical  Instruments. 
It  is  of  the  greatest  importance  that 
these  wires  should  possess  great  solidity 
combined  with  a  certain  degree  of 
elasticity.  It  becomes,  therefore,  neces- 
sary to  anneal  the  wires  to  a  certain 
degree  after  they  have  been  hardened, 
the  accomplishment  of  which  presents 
many  difficulties. 

Webster  and  Horsfall  first  harden 
the  wire  by  heating  it  to  a  red  heat 
and  then  cooling  suddenly.  To  obtain 
a  constant  temperature  for  annealing 
th.-v  use  a  metallic  mixture  of  40  parts 
of  lead,  26  of  antimony,  22  of  tin,  21  of 
zinc,  and  1  of  bismuth.  These  ingredi- 
16 


!  ents  are  melted  together  in  a  wrought- 
|  iron  vessel,  carefully  stirred,  and  heated 
to  just  above  the  melting  point.  The 
hardened  wire  to  be  annealed  is  then 
brought  into  this  bath  and  kept  there, 
according  to  its  thickness,  sufficiently 
long  to  acquire  a  uniform  temperature. 
It  is  then  cooled  by  immersing  in  water, 
which  will  give  it  all  the  qualities  de- 
manded for  piano  strings. 

To  Weld  Copper.    A  mixture  is  em- 
ployed composed  of  358  parts  of  phos- 
phate of  sodium    and   124  of  boraeic 
acid.     The  powder  is  applied  when  the 
metal  is  at  a  dull-red  heat;  it  is  then 
brought  to  a  cherry-red,  and  at  once 
hammered.     As  the  metal  is  very  apt 
to  soften  when  exposed  to  a  high  degree 
of  heat,  a  wooden  hammer  is  recom- 
mended..     All    carbonaceous    matters 
must  be  carefully  removed   from    the 
surfaces  to  be  joined,  as  the  success  of 
the  operation  depends  on  the  formation 
of  a  very  fusible  phosphate  of  copper, 
which  would  be  reduced  by  the  carbon 
•  to  the  state  of  a  phosphide.    The  ph'>s- 
j  phate  of  copper  dissolves  a  thin  film  of 
I  oxide  on  the   surfaces  of  the    metal, 
j  keeping  these  clean  and  in  a  condition 
to  weld. 

Another  Process  is  as  follows:  .The 
two  pieces  of  copper  to  be  united  hav- 
ing been  previously  shaped  so  that  the 
surfaces  form  a  lap  or  other  suitable 
joint,  borax  is  applied  on  and  between 
i  the  surfaces  of  the  joint,  which  are  then 
heated  and  hammered.  The  borax  is 
prepared  by  being  heated  until  all  the 
water  of  crystallization  has  evaporated, 
when  the  residue  is  pulverized  for  use. 
After  being  hammered  while  hot,  the 
joint  is  further  heated  to  a  white  heat, 
and  sprinkled  over  with  common  salt 
or  other  equivalent  compound  suitable 
for  the  exclusion  of  oxygen,  and  then 
welded ;  or  during  the  welding  opera- 
tion a  current  of  chlorine  gas  may 
be  directed  upon  the  heated  copper 
joint. 

New  Process  of  preparing  Malleable 
Nickel.  Nickel  in  a  melted  state  ab- 
sorbs considerable  quantities  of  oxygen 
becoming  thereby  brittle  and  unsuited 
for  working.  The  evil  can  be  remedied 
by  adding  to  the  melted  nickel  a  sub- 
stance which  not  only  absorbs  oxygen, 
with  avidity,  but  possesses  also  great 
affinity  for  nickel.  The  object  is  partly 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


attained  by  an  addition  of  metallic 
manganese,  as  is  done  in  the  fabrication 
of  steel ;  but  this,  like  all  other  easily 
combustible  metals,  disappears  in  re- 
melting,  and  leaves  the  nickel  as  brittle 
as  ever.  The  best  means  is  an  addition 
of  phosphorus  in  the  form  of  a  salt, 
which  is  obtained  by  melting  together 
a  mixture  of  phosphate  of  lime,  silica, 
coal,  and  nickel,  enclosing  about  6  per 
cent,  of  phosphorus.  Nickel  contain- 
ing about  0.025  per  cent,  of  phosphorus 
has  been  rolled  out  cold  to  a  sheet 
0.019  inch  thick.  In  alloying  with 
copper,  ph  >sphorus-nickel  acts  more 
favorably  than  the  pure  metal,  the 
easting  being  cleaner  and  more  uni- 
form. Phosphorus  makes  it  also  pos- 
sible to  alloy  nickel  with  iron  in  all 
proportions,  and  to  always  obtain  soft 
and  malleable  products. 

Dense  and  Flexible  Copper  Castings 
are  obtained  by  adding  cryolite  and 
sugar  of  lead  to  the  copper  after  it  is 
melted.  The  proportions  are  as  fol- 
lows :  Two  pounds  of  pulverized  cryo- 
lite and  8J  ounces  of  sugar  of  lead  to 
200  pounds  of  copper ;  a  further  addition 
of  2  pounds  of  borax  being  also  advisa- 
ble. The  quantities  of  the  additions 
may  be  varied  according  to  circum- 
stances. The  mixture  of  cryolite  and 
sugar  of  lead,  with  or  without  borax, 
is  added  after  the  copper  is  melted. 
When  the  compound  is  entirely  melted, 
which  will  be  the  case  in  10  to  15  min- 
utes, the  melted  copper  is  poured  into 
the  mould. 

Copper  Steel  is  obtained  by  melting 
together  3  parts  of  fluo-silicate  of  potas- 
sium and  1  each  of  soda  and  copper  at 
such  a  temperature  that  the  metal  is 
covered  with  a  very  liquid  slag,  and 
the  copper  beneath  it  forms  silicide 
of  copper,  containing  12  per  cent,  of 
siliciura,  and  is  as  white  as  bismuth, 
and  hard.  An  alloy  containing  4.8 
per  cent,  of  silicium  has  a  beautiful 
yellow-bronze  color,  is  hard,  and  can 
be  worked  with  the  same  tools  as  iron. 
It  may  also  be  drawn  into  wire.  Al- 
loys with  a  larger  percentage  of  silicium 
are  harder. 

Silicium.  By  melting  together  in  a 
crucible  1  part  of  granulated  zinc,  1  of 
sodium,  and  3  of  fluo-silicate  of  potas- 
sium, a  zinc  button  traversed  by  long 
needles  of  silicium  is  obtained.  On 


dissolving  the  zinc  in  hydrochloric 
acid,  the  silicium  remains  behind.  By 
heating  the  zinc  containing  silicium 
above  the  evaporating  point,  the  sili- 
cium remains  behind  in  a  melted  state, 
and  becomes  entirely  free  from  zinc  by 
heating  it  sufficiently.  Pure  silicium 
can  be  melted  and  cast. 

To  Protect  Lead  Pipes  it  is  recom- 
mended to  provide  them  with  a  coat 
of  sulphide  of  lead.  Dissolve  i  ounce 
of  caustic  soda  in  1£  quarts  of  water,  mix 
the  solution  with  one  of  i  ounce  of 
lead  nitrate  (or  an  equivalent  of  other 
lead  salt  soluble  in  water)  in  i  pint 
of  water,  and  heat  the  mixture  to  195° 
F.  As  soon  as  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
lead  salt  has  been  added  the  fluid  be- 
comes turbid  and  must  be  very  quickly 
filtered  through  asbestos  or  a  similar 
material.  To  the  clear  fluid  is  added 
2i  ounces  of  hot  water  containing  1 
drachm  of  sulphocarbamide  in  solu- 
tion. In  using  the  fluid  it  is  best  to 
heat  it  to  150°  F.,  and  to  hold  the 
thoroughly  cleansed  lead  pipe  in  it  for 
a  few  moments,  when  it  will  be  quickly 
coated  with  a  fine  layer  of  sulphide  of 
lead.  If  the  lead  has  been  thoroughly 
cleansed  the  sulphide  of  lead  adheres 
very  tenaciously  and  can  be  easily 
polished  with  a  piece  of  leather. 

To  Protect  Iron  from  Rmt.  The  fol- 
lowing fluid  is  claimed  to  prevent  the 
rusting  of  iron:  If  pints  each  of  lin- 
seed oil  and  brown  varnish,  1  quart  of 
turpentine,  and  li  ounces  of  camphor. 
Heat  the  mixture  over  the  water-bath, 
stirring  constantly,  then  immerse  the 
articles  for  a  few  moments,  rinse  them 
off  with  warm  water,  and  dry. 

To  Protect  Lightning  Rods,  Metal 
Roofs,  etc.,  from  Rust.  Convert  2  parts 
of  graphite  mixed  with  8  parts  of  sul- 
phide of  lead  and  2  of  sulphide  of  zinc 
into  an  impalpable  powder,  and  add 
gradually  30  parts  of  linseed-oil  varnish 
previously  heated  to  the  boiling  point. 
This  varnish  dries  very  quickly  and 
protects  the  metals  coated  with  it  from 
oxidation. 

To  Protect  Wire  from  Rust.  Melt 
mineral  pitch  and  add  to  it  A  part  by 
weight  of  coal-tar  and  3a  part  by  weight 
of  very  fine  quartz  sand,  and  immerse 
the  wire  in  the  mixture.  The  coating 
becomes  hard  in  24  hours. 

To  Protect  Iron  and  Steel  from 


METAL  INDUSTRY. 


243 


The    following    method   is   but   little) 
known,  although  it  deserves  preference  | 
to  all  others :   Add    1|  pints  of  cold 
water  to  7  ounces  of  quicklime.    Let 
the  mixture  stand  until  the  supernatant 
fluid  is  entirely  clear.     Then  pour  this 
oft'  and  mix  it  with  enough  olive  oil  to 
form  a  thick  cream,  or  rather  to  the 
consistency  of  melted  and  recongealed 
butter.    Grease  the  articles  of  iron  or  j 
steel   with   this   compound,   and   then ! 
wrap  them  up  in  paper,  or  if  this  can- 
not be  done  apply  the  mixture  some- 
what thicker. 

Cleaning  Guns  with  Petroleum. 
Cleansing  a  weapon  with  fats  and  oils 
does  not  entirely  protect  it  from  rust ;  j 
the  so-called  drying  oils  get  gummy  j 
and  resinous,  while  the  non-drying  oils  ! 
become  rancid,  and  by  exposure  to  the  | 
air  acids  are  formed,  and  these  attack 
the  iron.  For  these  reasons  petroleum 
is  to  be  preferred  for  this  purpose. 
Petroleum  is  as  great  an  enemy  to 
water  as  are  the  fatty  oils,  and  hence, 
when  a  gun-barrel  is  covered  with  a 
film  of  petroleum,  it  keeps  the  water 
away  from  the  metal.  The  water  rest- 
ing upon  this  film  evaporates,  but  the 
oil  does  not,  and  hence  no  rust  can  be 
formed.  It  is  very  essential,  however, 
that  the  petroleum  employed  be  per- 
fectly pure,  for  impure  oil,  such  as  is 
often  met  with  in  commerce,  attacks 
the  metal.  Care  must  also  be  taken 
not  to  allow  it  to  come  in  contact  with 
the  polished  stock.  When  about  to 
clean  a  gun  some  tow  is  wrapped 
around  the  ramrod  and  enough  petro- 
leum poured  upon  it  to  thoroughly 
moisten  it ;  it  is  then  pushed  in  a  rotary 
'manner  through  the  barrel  and  back  a 
dozen  times,  and  the  tow  taken  out  and 
unrolled,  and  the  upper  and  lower  ends 
of  the  barrel  rubbed  with  the  clean 
part,  after  which  it  is  thrown  away. 
This  removes  the  coarser  portion  of  the 
dirt.  A  round  brush  of  stiff  bristles 
and  fitting  the  barrel  is  now  screwed  to 
the  ramrod,  then  moistened  thoroughly 
with  petroleum  and  twisted  into  the 
barrel,  running  it  back  and  forth  at 
least  a  dozen  times,  thus  loosening  the 
dirt  that  is  more  firmly  attached  to  it. 
The  first  operation  is  now  repeated,  ex- 
cept that  the  tow  on  the  ramrod  is  left 
dry,  and  the  rubbing  with  this  must  be 
continued  in  all  directions  as  long  as  it 


comes  out  soiled.  The  use  of  wire 
brushes  is  objectionable  for  cleaning 
guns,  as  the  numerous  steel  points  cut 
into  the  tube.  Only  soft  tow,  hemp, 
woollen  rags,  or  the  like  should  be 
used,  as  the  petroleum  dissolves  the 
dirt  sufficiently. 

To  Protect  Wrought-iron  Bridges 
from  JKust.  The  following  process  was 
observed  in  painting  the  Britannia 
bridge  across  the  Menai  Strait  in  Ao)-(/i 
Wales.  All  of  the  iron  work  was 
scraped  and  rubbed  with  wire  and 
still  bristle  brushes  until  the  surface 
acquired  a  metallic  lustre.  The  holes, 
joints,  and  cracks  were  carefully 
cleaned  and  filled  with  red  or  white 
lead  putty,  and  when  dry  the  whole 
was  brushed  again  and  the  bridge 
painted  with  4  coats  of  the  following 
paint  at  intervals  of  8  to  14  days  :  Pure 
white  lead  560  parts,  crude  linseed  oil 
133  parts,  boiled  linseed  oil  (without  an 
addition  of  litharge)  18  to  36  parts,  and 
spirit  of  turpentine  18  parts. 

After  the  fourth  coat  had  been  ap- 
plied the  whole  was  sanded  with  fine 
white  sand.  To  the  paint  for  the  last 
coat  enough  Berlin  blue  had  been  added 
to  give  it  a  light  grayish  tint. 

The  parts  of  the  bridge  not  exposed 
to  view  received,  after  thorough  scrap- 
ing and  puttying  up,  3  to  4  coats  of  a 
varnish  obtained  by  mixing  8  parts  of 
gas-tar,  1  of  spirit  of  turpentine,  and  2 
of  pulverized  lime. 

Staining  Metals.  The  following  re- 
ceipts have  all  been  tested  in  the  labora- 
tory of  Dr.  Winckler  by  a  practical 
armorer  and  given  excellent  results: 

Blue  Stain  on  Iron  and  Steel.  Polish 
and  cleanse  the  steel  thoroughly  with 
lime,  and  then  brush  it  over  with  the 
following  mixture :  Butter  of  antimony 
8  parts,  fuming  nitric  acid  8  parts,  and 
muriatic  acid  16  parts.  Add  the  spirit 
of  salt  very  slowly  and  drop  by  drop, 
to  avoid  too  strong  heating.  Apply  the 
mixture  to  the  steel  with  a  rag,  and  rub 
it  with  green,  young  oak  wood  until  the 
desired  blue  color  is  produced. 

Gray  on  Steel  and  Iron.  Polish  the 
steel  and  coat  it  with  a  mixture  of  but- 
ter of  antimony  8  parts  and  sulphuric 
acid  2  parts.  If  the  color  does  not 
turn  out  handsome  enough,  add  a  few 
drops  of  empyreumatic  pyroligneoua 
acid  or  gallic  acid. 


244 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Black,  Mis:  8  parts  of  butter  of  anti- 
mony, 4  parts  of  sulphuric  acid,  and  2 
parts  of  empyreuraatic  pyroligneous 
acid,  or  gallic  acid.  Apply  several 
coats  of  the  mixture  to  the  polished 
steel  until  it  is  black  enough. 

To  /Stain  Iron,  Gun -barrels,  etc., 
Brown.  Mix  16  parts  of  sweet  spirit  of 
nitre,  12  parts  of  a  solution  of  sulphate 
of  iron,  a  like  quantity  of  butter  of  anti- 
mony, and  l(j  parts  of  sulphate  of  cop- 
per. Let  the  mixture  stand  in  a  well- 
corked  bottle  in  a  moderately  warm 
place  for  24  hours,  then  add  500  parts 
of  rain  water,  and  put  it  away  for  use. 

After  the  barrel  has  been  rubbed  with 
emery  paper  and  polished,  wash  it  with 
fresh  lime-water,  dry  it  thoroughly,  and 
then  coat  it  over  uniformly  with  the 
above  mixture;  it  is  best  t>  use  a  tuft 
of  cotton ;  let  it  dry  for  24  hours,  and 
then  brush  it  with  a  scratch  brush. 
Repeat  the  coating  and  drying  twice, 
but  in  rubbing  off  for  the  last  time  use 
leather  moistened  with  olive  oil  in  place 
of  the  scratch  brush,  and  rub  until  a 
beautiful  lustre  is  produced;  then  let 
it  dry  for  12  hours  and  repeat  the  polish- 
ing with  olive  oil. 

English  Process  of  Staining  Gun-bar- 
rels Brown.  Mix  33  parts  of  pulverized 
sulphate  of  copper,  25  parts  of  subli- 
mate, 28  parts  each  of  sweet  spirit  of 
nitre  and  tincture  of  steel,  and  500  parts 
of  rain  water. 

Rub  up  first  the  spirit  of  nitre  with 
the  sublimate,  then  add  the  other  in- 
gredients, let  it  stand  in  a  well-closed 
bottle  in  a  warm  place  for  12  hours, 
then  add  the  water  and  treat  the  barrel 
in  the  same  manner  as  above,  but  wash 
it  off  every  time  after  brushing  with  the 
scratch  brush.  After  repeating  this  3 
times,  polish  the  barrel  with  leather 
moistened  with  olive  oil  mixed  with 
some  oil  of  turpentine,  then  dry  it  for 
12  hours,  and  finally  polish  with  oil. 

Light  Brown.  Mix  4  parts  each  of 
butter  of  antimony  and  ordinary  butter 
and  10  to  12  drops  of  olive  oil ;  heat  the 
mixture  in  a  flask  and  then  brush  it 
uniformly  over  the  barrel,  previously 
cleansed  and  polished;  hold  the  barrel 
over  a  moderate  coal  fire,  when  a  beauti- 
ful brown  will  soon  make  its  appear- 
ance ;  then  polish  with  olive  oil,  and 
finally  give  it  a  light  coat  of  good  amber 
lacquer  compounded  with  some  shellac. 


Light  Yellowish -brown.  Mix  32 
parts  of  spirit  of  wine  and  16  parts  each 
of  sulphate  of  copper,  tincture  of  steel, 
and  nitric  acid  and,  when  all  are  dis- 
solved, add  375  parts  of  rain  water. 
After  polishing  the  barrel  and  cleans- 
ing it  with  fresh  lime-water,  brush  it 
over  uniformly  with  the  mixture,  let 
it  dry  in  an  airy  room,  and  then  wash 
it  off  with  a  brush  dipped  in  boiling 
water.  Repeat  this  twice,  and  then 
coat  the  barrel  with  a  lacquer  prepared 
by  mixing  1  part  of  amber  varnish,  2 
,  of  copal  varnish,  i  of  shellac  varnish, 
|  and  1  of  linseed-oil  varnish.  Should 
the  lacquer  be  too  viscid,  dilute  it  with 
some  oil  of  turpentine.  As  soon  as  the 
lacquer  is  dry  polish  the  barrel  first 
i  with  beech  charcoal  and  then  with  a 
piece  of  hat  felt. 

Lacquering  of  Sheet  Metal.  A  good 
copal  lacquer  is  required  for  the  work. 
j  It  is  prepared  as  follows :  Coat  a  glazed 
pot  outside  with  a  layer  of  potters'  clay 
5  inches  thick,  and  the  bottom  with  onel 
inch  thick.  Let  it  dry,  and  then  place 
in  the  pot  500  parts  of  copal  in  small 
pieces,  and  100  parts  of  Venetian  tur- 
pentine, and  melt  the  mixture  over  a 
moderate  coal  fire  for  J  hour,  stirring 
it  frequently.  Then  add  in  small  por- 
tions at  a  time,  and  stirring  constantly, 
166  parts  of  hot  linseed-oil  varnish,  and 
finally  pour  into  the  mixture,  stirring 
constantly,  1000  parts  of  oil  of  turpen- 
tine. Then  filter  the  lacquer  and  keep 
it  in  well-closed  flasks. 

Sheet  metal  to  be  lacquered  must  first 
be  provided  with  a  ground  of  oil  paint. 
For  the  first  ground  take  some  good 
linseed-oil  varnish,  some  oil  of  turpen- 
tine, and  a  little  copal  lacquer,  and  any 
|  desired  pigment.  If  the  sheet  is,  for 
j  instance,  to  be  crimson,  grind  cinnabar 
in  the  above  mixture,  lay  a  coat  of  the 
paint  on  the  metal,  and  bake  it  in  the 
lacquering  oven  until  it  is  hard  and 
dry  ;  then  apply  3  or  4  more  coats,  and 
dry  them  in  the  same  manner.  Then 
rub  the  paint  with  shave-grass,  next 
with  finely-pulverized  pumice-stone, 
and  finally  with  a  moist  piece  of  felt, 
and  then  glaze  the  article. 

For  Glazing  rub  up  fine  Florentine 
or  Vienna  lake  in  good  linseed-oil  var- 
nish and  a  little  oil  of  turpentine;  di- 
lute it  with  copal  lacquer,  and  apply  5 
to  6  coats  of  it,  allowing  each  coat  to 


MUSTARDS. 


245 


dry  thoroughly  before  laying  on  the  [ 
next.     When  the  last  coat  is  dry,  rub  ; 
it  smooth,  first  with  a  moist  linen  cloth 
dipped  in  pulverized  pumice-stone,  and  j 
finish  with  a  piece  of  chamois  and  pre-  ' 
pared  buck's  horn,  and  finally  put  the  \ 
article  in  the  lacquering  oven  heated  to 
97°  F. 

This  mode  of  treatment  is  the  same 
for  all  color  mixtures. 

Green.  Schweiafurt-green.  This  re- 
quires no  glaze. 

Yellow.     Use  chrome  yellow. 

Blue  is  obtained  by  mixing  Parisian 
blue  with  some  Venetian  white. 

Chamois,  by   mixing  cinnabar,   red  j 
lead,  chrome  yellow,  and  some  Venetian 
white. 

R<'d-brown.  Take  calcined  lamp- 
black and  cinnabar. 

White  Lac  Color.  Rub  up  very  fine 
Kremnitz  white  in  oil  of  turpentine,  j 
dilute  it  with  good  white  copal  lacquer,  j 
and  dry  it  in  the  sun  or  in  the  air,  as  i 
the  color  turns  yellow  if  dried  by  the  ' 
heat  of  a  stove. 

Lilac  or  Violet.  Mix  fine  Vienna 
lake,  Venetian  white,  and  a  little  Paris- 
ian blue. 

Black  Lacquer.  Boil  on  a  moderate 
fire  for  4  hours  250  parts  of  a>phal- 
tum  in  125  parts  of  linseed-oil  varnish; 
mix  the  compound  with  66  parts  of  cal- 
cined lampblack,  rubbed  up  in  oil  of 
turpentine,  and  dilute  the  mixture  with 
oil  of  turpentine. 

Blue  or  Steel  Glaze.  Rub  fine  Paris- 
ian blue  in  good  linseed-oil  varnish, 
and  dilute  with  copal  lacquer.  Apply 
3  to  4  coats  of  this  to  a  tin  plate,  which 
will  thereby  acquire  a  blue-steel  color. 

Red  Glaze.  Rub  fine  Vienna  or 
Florentine  lake  in  linseed-oil  varnish 
and  dilute  with  copal  lacquer.  Apply 
3  to  4  coats  of  it  to  a  tin  plate  or  bright 
sheet  iron,  which  acquires  thereby  a 
beautiful  transparent  color. 

MUSTARDS. 

To  Prepare  Ordinary  Mustard.  I. 
Stir  gradually  1  pint  of  good  white 
wine  into  8  ounces  of  ground  mustard 
seed,  add  a  pinch  of  pulverized  cloves, 
and  let  the  whole  boil  over  a  moderate 
coal  fire.  Then  add  a  small  lump  of 
white  sugar  and  let  the  mixture  boil 
up  once  more. 


II.  Pour  i  pint  of  boiling  wine  vine- 
gar over  8  ounces  of  ground  mustard 
seed  in  an  earthen  pot,  stir  the  mixture 
thoroughly,  then  add  some  cold  vine- 
gar, and  let  the  pot  stand  over  night  in 
a  warm  place.     The  next  morning  add 
i  pound  of  sugar,  f  drachm  of  pulver- 
ized cinnamon,  £  drachm  of  pulverized 
cloves,  U  drachms  of  Jamaica  pepper, 
some  cardamon,  nutmeg,  half  the  rind 
of  a  lemon,  and  the  necessary  quantity 
of  vinegar.     The  mustard  is  now  ready 
and  is  kept  in  pots  tied  up  with  bladder. 

III.  Pound  in  a  mortar  the  flesh  of 
a  salt  herring  and  2  ounces  of  capers 
to  a  paste,  and  mix  this  with  2  ounces 
of    pulverized    white    sugar     and    13 
ounces  of  ground  mustard  seed  ;   then 
pour  If  pints  of  boiling  wine  vinegar 
over  it,  stir,  and  let  the  whole  stand 
near  a  fire  for  several  hours.     Finally, 
add  |  pint  of  boiling  vinegar,  stir  thor- 
oughly,  and  pour   the    mustard    into 
glass  bottles. 

IV.  Mix  8  ounces  of  ground  mustard 
seed  with  \\  pints  of  good,  cold  vinegar, 
heat  the  mixture  over  a  moderate  "fire 
for  1   hour,  add    1  drachm  of  ground 
Jamaica  pepper,  and  when  cold  keep 
it  in  well-closed  jars. 

V.  Cut  up  a  medium-sized    onion, 
pour  1£  pints  of  good  wine  vinegar  over 
it,  let  it  stand  for  a  few  days,  strain  the 
vinegar  off  and  pour  it  over  8  ounces 
of  mustard  seed,  and  let  this  stand  for 
12  hours.     The  mustard  seed,  is  then 
ground  and  mixed  with  the  following 
ingredients :  One-half  drachm  of  finely- 
powdered  cloves,  J  drachm  of  pulver- 
ized   cardamons,   a    like  quantity  of 
grated  nutmeg,   and  1  ounce  of  pulver- 
ized white  sugar. 

Frankfort  Mustard.  Mix  1  pound 
of  white  mustard  seed,  ground,  a  like 
quantity  of  brown  mustard  seed,  8 
ounces  of  pulverized  loaf  sugar,  1  ounce 
of  pulverized  cloves,  2  ounces  of 
allspice,  and  compound  the  mixture 
with  white  wine  or  wine  vinegar. 

Wine  Mustard.  Com  pound  very  fi  ne 
black  mustard  in  powder  with  &  of  its 
quantity  of  must,  which  has  been 
previously  boiled  down  to  a  thickly- 
fluid  paste  in  a  tin  boiler. 

Loiormaud's  Method  of  Preparing 
Mustard.  Mix  with  2  pounds  of  ground 
mustard  seed,  \  ounce  each  of  fresh 
parsley  and  tarragon,  both  cut  up  fine, 


246 


TECHNO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


1  clove  of  garlic  also  cut  up  very  fine, 
and  12  salted  anchovies;  grind  the  mixt- 
ure very  fine,  add  the  required  must 
and  1  ounce  of  pulverized  salt,  and  for 
further  grinding  dilute  with  water.  To 
evaporate  the  water,  after  grinding  the 
mustard,  heat  an  iron  rod  red  hot  and 
cool  it  off  in  the  mixture,  and  then  add 
wine  vinegar  of  the  best  quality. 

Moutarde  de  Maille.  Cut  up  8 
ounces  of  fresh  tarragon  leaves  without 
the  stems,  2V  ounces  of  basil,  2  ounces 
of  bay  leaves,  and  4  ounces  of  rocam- 
bole. Place  the  ingredients  in  a  glass 
alembic,  pour  2i  quarts  of  strong  wine 
vinegar  over  them,  and,  to  allow  the 
vapors  to  escape,  tie  up  the  mouth  of 
the  alembic  with  a  piece  of  perforated 
moist  bladder.  Place  the  alembic  upon 
hot  sand  for  4  days,  then  filter  the  fluid 
first  through  linen  and  then  through 
blotting-paper.  Add  to  this  aromatic 
vinegar  1  ounce  of  common  salt,  then 
stir  it  into  a  thick  paste  with  ground 
black  mustard  seed,  and  keep  the  mus- 
tard in  earthen  jars. 

Mouturde  d  la  Rav'iaotte.  Cut  up  12 
parts  of  fresh  tarragon  leaves,  6  of  fresh 
bay  leaves,  4  of  fresh  angelica  root,  8 
of  capers,  8  of  anchovies,  6  of  rocam- 
bole, and  4  of  eschalots,  and  digest 
them  in  200  parts  of  strong  wine  vine- 
gar ;  then  strain  the  fluid,  press  out  the 
residue,  filter  the  fluid  again,  and  stir 
in  ground  black  mustard  seed  to  the 
consistency  of  a  thin  paste. 

Sour  Dusseldorf  Mustard.  Fill  2 
barrels  with  vinegar;  steep  in  one  of 
the  barrels  2  pounds  of  origan  leaves 
and  in  the  other  an  ordinary  bucketful 
of  onions  cut  up,  and  let  them  digest 
for  2  days.  Then  bruise  44  pounds  of 
white  mustard  seed  and  66  pounds  of 
black  mustard  seed ;  put  this  in  a  vat 
and  add  1  pound  ptilverized  cloves, 
H  pounds  of  pulverized  coriander  seeds, 
and  4-V  gallons  of  each  of  the  prepared 
vinegars.  Stir  the  whole  thoroughly 
and  grind  it  twice  in  a  mill.  To  every 
gallon  of  this  acid  and  mix  thoroughly 
with  it  1  pound  of  salt  dissolved  in  1 
quart  of  the  onion  vinegar. 

/Soye's  Method  of  Preparing  Mustard. 
I.  Steep  4  quarts  of  mustard  seed  for  8 
days  in  a  mixture  of  1  gallon  of  wood 
vinegar  and  a  like  quantity  of  water; 
stir  it  several  times  daily  and  then 
grind  it. 


II.  Aromatic  Mustard.     Cut  up  8 
ounces  each  of  parsley,  cheroil  ( Chacro- 
phyllum  sativum),   and   celery,   steep 
them   for   2  weeks    in   wood  vinegar, 
then   grind  the  mixture,  and  add  10 
quarts  of  ground  mustard  seed  and  8 
ounces  of  pulverized  sea  salt.    On  the 
other  hand,  pulverize  and  mix  1  pound 
each  of  cinnamon,  cloves,  nutmegs,  and 
allspice,  sift  the  powder  and  mix  it  with 
the  mustard,  together  with  40  drops  of 
essence  of  thyme  and  30  drops  each  of 
essence  of   cinnamon   and  essence  of 
tarragon,   diluted   with    some  vinegar 
poured  from  the  first  mixture. 

III.  English  Mustard  consists  of  9 
pounds    of   ground    mustard    seed,    9 
ounces  of  wheat  flour,  1J  pounds  of 
common  salt,   2J  ounces  of  Cayenne 
pepper,  and  as  much  water  and  vine- 
gar as  required. 

Black  Mustard  Powder.  Mix  10 
parts  of  ground  black  mustard  and  J 
of  rocambole  rubbed  very  fine,  and  add 
3*5  of  salt. 

Compound  Mustard  Founder.  Mix 
10  parts  of  ground  white  mustard  and 
i  of  rocambole  rubbed  very  fine. 

Compound  English  Mustard  Powder. 
Pulverize  and  mix  2  pounds  of  mustard 
seed,  1£  ounces  of  dried  rocambole,  $ 
ounce  each  of  marjoram,  thyme,  and 
garden  sage,  i  ounce  each  of  tarragon 
and  cinnamon,  J  drachm  each  of 
ginger,  cloves,  and  fennel  seed,  and  8 
ounces  of  dried  common  salt,  and  keep 
the  powder  in  well-closed  bottles. 

Compound  Black  Mustard  Powder. 
Pulverize  and  mix  20  parts  of  ground 
black  mustard  seed,  3  of  common  salt, 
1  each  of  tarragon,  thyme,  and  rocam- 
bole, and  4  of  pulverized  sugar. 

Very  Fine  Table  Mustard.  Digest 
If  ounces  of  fresh  tarragon  leaves,  2 
bay  leaves,  1  lemon  (juice  and  rind), 
\  drachm  each  of  cloves  and  cinnamon, 
I  drachm  of  black  pepper,  £  ounce  of 
dill,  and  1  onion  in  4  gallon  of  good 
vinegar.  It  is  best  to  use  a  steam  ap- 
paratus for  the  purpose.  Then  strain 
the  fluid  into  a  porcelain  vessel,  and, 
while  it  is  yet  warm,  mix  with  it  1 
poiind  of  ground  black  mustard  seed 
and  a  like  quantity  of  white  mustard, 
and  1  pound  of  sugar  and  3A  ounces  of 
common  salt.  Let  the  whole  digest, 
stirring  it  frequently,  until  the  mustard 
has  lost  some  of  its  sharpness  by  the 


OILS   AND  FATS. 


247 


evaporation  of  the  ethereal  oil,  aiid  then 
dilute,  according  to  taste,  with  more  or 
less  vinegar. 


OILS  AND  FATS— ANIMAL,  VEGETA- 
BLE, AND  MINERAL 

Purification  of  Mineral  Oils.  To  re- 
move the  disagreeable  odor  of  mineral 
oils,  the  following  process  may  be 
used :  Prepare  a  saturated  solution 
of  potassium  hyposulphite  and  caustic 
soda  in  alcohol,  and  pour  this,  with 
constant  stirring,  into  the  mineral  oil  to 
be  cleansed.  The  quantity  of  solution 
varies  between  5  and  9  percent.,  accord- 
ing to  the  condition  of  the  oil.  After 
the  mixture  has  been  allowed  to  settle 
by  standing,  the  oil  is  drawn  off  the 
sediment,  which  is  mostly  of  a  dark 
color,  into  another  mixing  vessel,  and 
again  compounded  with  lye. 

Residues  in  the  }fannfai-tnre  of  Shale 
Oil  serve  for  the  manufacture  of  alum 
and  contain  considerable  quantities  of 
lithium.  The  acid,  tarry  matters  con- 
tain sulphates  of  the  pyridine  series, 
especially  coridine,  rubidine,  and  viri- 
dine.  Aniline  does  not  seem  to  be 
present.  The  insoluble  parts  and  alka- 
line tars  contain  principally  phenols 
and  thymols,  but  no  ordinary  phenylic 
acid. 

French  Process  of  Cleansing  Vegeta- 
ble Fat  Oils.  A.  boiler  with  a  larger 
diameter  at  the  top  than  on  the  bottom 
and  provided  with  a  cover  is  filled  half 
full  with  oil,  which  is  brought  to  a 
gentle  boil.  To  each  30  gallons  of  oil 
are  added  2  ounces  of  minium,  pre- 
viously stirred,  for  better  distribution, 
into  a  thin  paste  with  some  of  the  oil. 
As  soon  as  a  strong  froth  is  formed  and 
green  flakes  are  separated  the  boiler 
is  taken  from  the  fire  and  placed  in  the 
open  air  to  cool  off.  Special  care  must 
be  had  not  to  neglect  this  moment, 
as  otherwise  a  decomposition  of  the  oil 
into  sebacic  acids  and  glycerine  might 
easily  occur. 

Manufacture  of  Castor-oil.  The  fol- 
lowing process  i's  in  use  in  the  Belle- 
ville Oil  Works  of  Brosius  &  Co.  The 
seeds,  after  they  have  been  cleansed 
from  adhering  dust  and  other  impuri- 
ties, are  brought  into  iron  tanks  and 
gently  heated,  care  being  had  to  pre- 


vent roasting,  since  the  only  object  of 
this  operation  is  to  make  the  oil  more 
fluid  for  pressing.  The  pressing  itself 
is  accomplished  by  means  of  hydraulic 
presses,  each  provided  with  a  number 
of  movable  plates  and  a  cylinder.  As 
soon  as  the  cylinder  is  filled  and  the 
plates  have  been  put  in  position  the 
pressing  commences.  The  oil  first 
pressed  out  runs  into  a  large  reservoir. 
The  pressed  seeds  are  thrown  together 
in  a  pile,  and  remain  there  for  one  day, 
when  they  are  again  heated  in  an  iron 
tank,  brought  into  the  cylinder  and 
pressed.  This  gives  a  second  quality 
of  oil,  which  is  used  as  a  lubricant  for 
machinery.  Part  of  the  press  cakes 
is  used  as  fuel  in  the  manufactory, 
the  other  part  is  sent  East,  where, 
in  connection  with  other  materials, 
it  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  man- 
ures. 

Baeder,  Adamson  &  Co.,  of  Phila- 
delphia, employ  bisulphide  of  car- 
bon for  extracting  the  press-cakes, 
gaining  thereby  a  dark,  thick  fluid. 
The  process  is  similar  to  that  used  in 
France  with  alcohol,  but  the  product 
is  a  very  ordinary  burning  oil  smelling 
of  bisulphide  of  carbon.  The  oil  pre- 
pared by  the  Belleville  process  is  called 
cold-pressed,  and  is  without  doubt 
much  better  than  that  gained  by  other 
methods  where  more  heat  is  employed. 
The  product  of  the  two  i»ressings  is 
about  16  pounds,  or  2  gallons  per  H 
bushels  of  beans.  A  third  pressing  has 
been  tried,  but  it  did  not  pay,  as  the 
gain  was  but  1  to  3  pounds  from  1£ 
bushels  of  beans,  and  the  oil  more 
colored.  The  process  of  purifying  and 
clarifying  the  oil  varies  in  different 
manufactories,  the  principal  point  being 
not  to  expose  the  oil  to  the  air  for  too 
long  a  time,  as  it  is  apt  to  become 
rancid.  The  oil  first  pressed  out  is 
clear  white,  or  rather  colorless,  resem- 
bling water;  while  the  second  is  yel- 
lowish, resembling  syrup  of  squills. 
Castor-oil  can  be  mixed  with  radical 
vinegar  and  absolute  alcohol  in  all 
proportions  without  the  aid  of  any 
other  agent.  It  is  soluble  in  4  parts 
of  alcohol  of  0.835  or  0.850  specific 
gravity  at  60°  F.,  and  mixes  without 
becoming  turbid  with  equal  parts  of 
the  same  solvent  at  77°  F.  It  has  a 
specific  gravity  of  0.97  to  0.98,  congeals 


248 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


at  8.6°  to  10.4°  F.,  and  becomes  solid 
at  —40°  F. 

Manufacture  of  Neat's  -  foot,  Oil. 
The  feet  of  about  100  wethers  are  placed 
in  a  tank  and  heated  by  steam  for  a  few 
hours  to  165°  or  175°  F.  When  the 
woolly  hair  can  be  removed  the  tank 
is  emptied,  the  feet  scraped  off,  and  the 
claws  removed.  The  feet  thus  cleansed 
are  tied  together  in  bundles  of  18  each, 
and  boiled  until  the  oil  contained  in 
them  is  gained,  while  the  half-boiled 
feet  themselves  are  brought  into  com- 
merce ;  100  to  125  of  these  bundles  are 
boiled  at  a  time.  The  yield  of  fat 
varies  very  much,  amounting  to  1J  to 
3£  pints  from  100  wethers.  The  feet  of 
animals,  having  travelled  long  dis- 
tances before  being  killed,  give  only 
traces  of  oil.  After  having  been  boiled 
the  feet  are  at  once  thrown  into  a  cur- 
rent of  cold  water  and,  when  cold,  are 
ready  for  the  market.  The  oil  has  a 
specific  weight  of  0.915;  it  is  of  a 
transparent  gray  color,  becomes  clear 
by  standing  or  filtration,  and  is  then 
very  pah;  yellow.  More  than  75  per 
cent,  of  commercial  neat's  foot  oil  con- 
tain other  fats. 

To  Prepare  Chinese  Drying  Oil.  A 
funnel  very  narrow  on  the  lower  end 
is  filled  with  animal  charcoal  purified 
with  hydrochloric  acid,  and  converted 
into  a  coarse  and  uniform  powder,  and 
old  linseed  oil  filtered  through  this. 
The  filtered  oil  is  brought  into  large 
leaden  pans,  upon  the  bottom  of  each 
is  placed  crystallized  basic  acetate  of 
lead,  minium,  and  borate  of  protoxide 
of  manganese.  The  mixture  is  exposed 
to  the  light  of  the  sun,  the  pan  being 
covered  with  a  glass  plate.  The  pan 
is  then  heated  to  248°  F.,  and  a  current 
of  air,  heated  to  250°  F.  and  containing 
16  per  cent,  of  steam,  is  passed  through 
it  for  6  hours.  The  linseed  oil  thus 
prepared  is  put  in  flat  tin  cans,  which 
are  placed  in  a  closed  cylinder  of  sheet 
iren  in  rows  one  above  the  other  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  allow  space  for 
the  circulation  of  air.  In  the  upper 
part  of  the  cylinder  is  placed  a  wide- 
necked  flask*  filled  I  full  with  chloro- 
form, 1  pound  of  chloroform  being  re- 
quired for  27.5  pounds  of  prepared 
linseed  oil.  A  current  of  air  heated  to 
212°  F.  is  introduced  beneath  the  cover 
of  the  cylinder,  and  passes  out  through 


a  clack  valve,  which  can  be  regulated 
near  the  foot  of  the  cylinder.  In  about 
8  to  10  hours  the  oil  is  converted  into 
a  thick,  tenacious  mass,  \yhich  passes 
then  through  the  following  process: 
American  oil  of  turpentine  is  heated 
in  a  closed  boiler  to  572°  F.,  10  per 
cent,  of  absolute  alcohol  is  added,  and 
a  like  quantity  of  the  prepared  oil  dis- 
solved in  this  mixture  at  212°  F.  The 
solution,  which  is  at  first  yellowish  and 
turbid,  is  put  in  a  cylindrical  vessel  of 
rheet  iron  and  allowed  to  clarify  at  a 
lower  temperature.  By  mixing  a  small 
quantity  of  this  drying  oil  with  linseed 
oil  or  oil  paints,  it  imparts  to  them  the 
best  drying  qualities,  and,  after  stand- 
ing for  some  time,  expels  from  the  dry- 
ing oils  all  vegetable  gum.  Mixed 
with  linseed  oil,  a  varnish  of  a  straw 
color  is  obtained  which  dries  in  18  to 
24  hours,  and  leaves  behind  a  tenacious 
elastic  coating. 

To  Solidify  Petroleum  find  other 
Mineral  Oils.  Mosses  containing  lich- 
enine  and  other  pectine  substances, 
for  instance  Japanese  moss,  are  lixivi- 
ated with  hot  water,  and  the  lye  ob- 
tained is  intimately  mixed  with  the 
petroleum  or  other  oil.  The  com- 
pound, which  becomes  thick  and  even 
solid,  can  be  easily  transported.  By 
adding  alkali  and  faltering,  or  pressing, 
the  petroleum  is  regained  in  a  fluid 
state. 

Rosin  Oil  and  its  Uses.  Rosin  oil, 
recently  brought  into  commerce,  is  a 
product  of  the  dry  distillation  of  rosin. 
It  has  a  disagreeable  odor  resembling 
that  of  wood  tar,  and  a  blueish  mother- 
of-pearl  lustre.  The  apparatus  used  in 
gaining  it  consists  of  an  iron  pot,  a 
head  piece,  a  condenser,  and  a  receiver. 
In  the  distillation  a  light  oil  passes 
over  first,  together  with  water.  As 
soon  as  the  flow  of  the  distillate  ceases, 
the  receiver  is  changed,  and  the  heat 
raised,  when  a  red-colored  and  heavy 
rosin  oil  passes  over.  The  black  resi- 
due remaining  in  the  pot  is  used  as  a 
pitch.  The  light  oil,  called  pinoline, 
is  rectified,  and  the  acetic  acid  water 
passing  over  with  it  is  saturated  with 
calcium  hydrate,  filtered  and  evapo- 
rated to  dryness ;  the  calcium  acetate 
obtained  being  employed  in  the  manu- 
facture of  acetic  acid.  The  rosin  oil 
obtained  after  the  light  oil  has  passed 


OILS  AND  FATS, 


249 


over,  is  called  blue  rosin  oil,  on  account 
of  its  dark  violet  -  blue  color.  The 
red  oil  is  boiled  for  a  day  with  water, 
the  water  lost  by  evaporation  being 
replaced  by  fresh;  the  next  day  the 
water  is  drawn  off  and  the  remaining 
rosin  oil  saponified  with  caustic  lye  of 
36°  Beaume,  and  the  resulting  almost 
solid  mass  distilled  so  long  as  oil  passes 
over.  The  product  obtained  is  recti- 
fied rosin  oil,  which  is  allowed  to  stand 
in  iron  vessels,  protected  by  a  thiu 
layer  of  gypsum,  whereby,  after  a  few 
weeks,  a  perfectly  clear  oil  is  obtained 
free  from  water.  Oil  of  the  first  qual- 
ity is  obtained  by  a  repetition  of  the 
foregoing  operation  upon  the  once  rec- 
tified oil.  The  residues  of  both  opera- 
tions are  melted  up  with  the  pitch. 
(See  also  Lubricants.) 

To  Prepare  Pure  Naphthaline.  White 
naphthaline,  on  exposure  to  the  air, 
changes  its  color.  This  can  be  rem- 
edied by  repeated  recrystallizing,  wash- 
ing, and  distilling,  and  hence  a  perma- 
nent white  color  may  serve  as  a  cri- 
terion of  its  purity.  As  naphthaline  is 
gained  from  coal-tar  compounded  with 
alkali  to  produce  phenole,  it  is  first 
treated  with  5  to  10  per  cent,  of  sul- 
phuric acid  of  1.85  specific  gravity.  As 
soon  as  the  mixture  is  complete,  5  per 
cent,  of  the  weight  of  the  naphthaline 
of  manganese  dioxide  is  added,  or 
natural  pyrolusite  may  also  be  used. 
The  mixture  is  heated  on  a  water-bath 
for  15  to  20  minutes  until  no  further  re- 
action takes  place,  and,  to  remove  the 
acid,  is  then  washed  with  hot  water, 
next  with  weak  solution  of  sodium 
hydrate,  and  again  with  water.  The 
mass  is  then  distilled  and  all  passes  over 
at  1  to  2  degrees  below  the  boiling  point 
of  pure  naphthaline.  A  sample  of 
naphthaline  prepared  in  this  simple 
and  cheap  manner  remained  clear  for  8 
to  9  months,  while  the  ordinary  com- 
mercial samples  obtained  from  reliable 
firms  lost  their  color  long  before  that 
time. 

Vaseline  or  Cosmoline.  The  prin- 
cipal point  in  the  manufacture  of  vase- 
line or  cosmoline  is  to  free  the  raw 
materials,  consisting  either  of  natural 
mineral  tar  (soft  native  bitumen)  or 
the  residues  of  petroleum,  from  all 
adhering  impurities  and  easily  decom- 
posable substances,  and  to  decolorize 


them  at  the  same  time  as  much  as  pos- 
sible. The  mineral  taj  from  Alsace 
and  Galicia,  and  petroleum  residues  in 
the  United  States,  are  the  principal  raw 
materials  used.  They  are  of  a  semi-fluid 
to  pasty  consistency,  and  according  to 
their  condition  the  resulting  vaseline 
will  be  more  or  less  consistent. 

The  raw  material  is  cleansed  and  de- 
colorized by  treating  it  with  sulphuric 
acid  and  chromate  of  potassium,  and 
subsequent  digesting  with  animal  char- 
coal. We  give  in  the  following  a  de- 
scription of  the  processes  used  : 

The  raw  materials  are  converted  into 
a  fluid  state  and  passed,  after  all  the 
soluble  substances  have  been  separated, 
through  a  series  of  carbon  filters,  such 
as  are  used  in  sugar  refineries. 

After  passing  through  12  to  15  filters, 
the  originally  black-brown  fluid  as- 
sumes a  wine-yellow  color,  and  by 
passing  through  double  the  number  of 
filters  becomes  clear  as  water.  The 
clear  fluid,  the  specific  gravity  of  which 
decreases  as  it  becomes  lighter  in  color, 
containing  now  no  trace  of  bituminous 
substances,  is  brought  into  the  dupli- 
cator, into  which  superheated  steam  is 
passed,  the  temperature  being  raised  to 
480°.  F.  Samples  taken  occasionally 
from  the  boiler  must  show  no  changes 
in  the  oil  after  this  temperature  has 
been  kept  up  for  several  hours.  The 
steam  is  then  shut  off  and  the  finished 
vaseline  (about  25  to  30  per  cent,  of  the 
raw  material)  is  filtered  through  tissue 
paper  and  packed  in  boxes  for  trans- 
port. 

The  greatest  disadvantage  of  this 
process  is,  that  the  animal  charcoal  is 
very  rapidly  exhausted  and  is  only 
able  to  decolorize  a  small  percentage 
of  its  own  weight  of  vaseline;  expensive 
arrangements  being  therefore  required 
to  extract  the  solution  adhering  to  the 
charcoal  and  revivifying  the  latter  by 
means  of  superheated  steam  of  750°  to 
930°  F.  But  the  quality  of  this  vase- 
line is  very  good,  its  color  being  a  pure 
white  like  the  best  white  tallow.  It  is 
entirely  tasteless,  odorless,  not  only 
when  rubbed  upon  the  hand,  but  also 
when  melted  in  water  ;  the  latter  prop- 
erty distinguishing  it  from  all  other 
varieties  of  vaseline,  which,  on  melting 
in  water,  develop  a  faint  odor  of  pet'-o- 
leum.  Vaseline  when  melted  gives  an 


250 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


entirely  clear  and  colorless  fluid,  recon- 
gealing  into  a  homogeneous,  non-crys- 
talline mass. 

Cold  98  per  cent,  alcohol  dissolves 
2.2  per  cent,  of  vaseline.  The  evapor- 
ated residue  from  an  alcoholic  solution 
is  liquid  at  an  ordinary  temperature. 
It  cannot  be  saponified ;  it  is  therefore 
neither  a  fat  nor  a  resin. 

Hot  alcohol  dissolves  it  completely 
and  gives  a  clear  solution,  the  vaseline, 
on  cooling,  separating  in  flakes. 

To  potash-lye  vaseline  is  entirely  in- 
different. If,  after  boiling  for  some 
time,  the  lye  is  poured  off  from  the 
vaseline  and  acidulated,  it  remains 
entirely  clear,  no  opalizing  nor  separa- 
tion of  flakes  taking  place. 

Sulphuric  acid  of  1.60  specific  gravity 
and  nitric  acid  of  1.185  specific  gravity 
do  not  change  vaseline  if  boiled  with 
them.  Fuming  nitric  acid  colors  it 
yellow-red,  sulphuric  acid  of  1.82 
specific  gravity  blackish-gray,  the  acid 
itself  becoming  yellow-bro\vu. 

When  heated  in  a  platinum  dish, 
vaseline  is  completely  consumed  and 
leaves  no  residue.  Its  specific  gravity 
is  0.848. 

New  Process  of  Purifying  Paraffine. 
The  paraffine,  which  was  formerly 
pressed,  is  brought  into  an  ordinary 
still,  and  the  oily  substances  expelled 
by  means  of  superheated  steam.  They 
<»re  drawn  off  through  a  cock  near  the 
bottom  of  the  apparatus.  The  paraf- 
fine is  then  clarified  in  the  ordinary 
manner.  By  this  process  pressing  is 
avoided,  and  paraffine  melting  only  at 
158°  F.  is  obtained.  The  oils  obtained 
as  by-products  are  very  uniform  and 
good. 

To  Purify  and  Bleach  Fat  of  Bones 
extracted  with  Benzine,  and  make  it 
available  for  the  Manufacture  of  Soap. 
The  principal  difficulties  preventing 
the  utilization  of  fat  of  bones  in  the 
manufacture  of  soap  are : 

1.  That  the  odor  of  benzine  does  not 
entirely  disappear  even  during  saponi- 
fication. 

2.  The  fat  assumes  a  dark  and  fre- 
quently brown  color. 

3.  Soap  manufactured  from  it  is  dif- 
ficult to  free  from  salt. 

In  most  cases  these  evils  are  removed 
by  passing  steam  through  the  hot  fat 
for  6  to  8  hours,  or  where  no  steam  can 


be  had.  boiling  it  with  equal  parts  of 
water  for  the  same  length  of  time. 

But  this  simple  manipulation  does 
not  always  suffice,  as  it  frequently  re- 
moves the  odor  of  benzine  only  partly, 
and  does  not  free  the  fat  from  the  dis- 
solved glue  and  the  dark  color.  To  do 
this  satisfactorily  boil  100  pounds  of  fat 
for  6  to  8  hours  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  water  in  which  2i  pounds  of  chloride 
of  zinc  have  been  dissolved.  The  chlo- 
ride of  zinc  dissolves  the  mucous  parts 
of  the  fat  without  attacking  it,  and 
separates  them  from  the  coloring  mat- 
ter, whereby  the  fat  not  only  becomes 
clear,  but  acquires  also  a  lighter  color. 
Should  the  fat,  after  being  treated  in 
this  manner,  require  further  bleaching, 
it  is  subjected  to  the  following  process: 
Heat  the  fat  to  167°  F.,  and  add,  with 
constant  stirring,  to  every  100  pounds 
of  fat  2  pounds  of  caustic  soda-lye  of 
34°  to  35°  Beaume,  and  1  pound  of  salt 
previously  dissolved  in  some  water,  and 
then  let  it  stand  quietly.  The  traces  of 
impurities  and  glutinous  matter  still 
adhering  to  the  fat  are  absorbed  by  the 
lye  and  precipitated.  The  clear  fat  is 
then  poured  into  a  vat  of  soft  wood  and 
cooled  to  105°  F.  The  bleaching  liquors, 
having  been  prepared  in  the  meanwhile 
by  dissolving  for  every  100  pounds  of 
fat  V  pound  of  bichromate  of  potassium  in 
H  pounds  of  boiling  water  and  mixing 
this  with  2  pounds  of  fuming  hydro- 
chloric acid,  are  then  poured  slowly 
and  with  constant  stirring  into  the  oil 
at  the  above  temperature.  The  oil,  in 
about  15  minutes,  will  assume  a  dark- 
green  color,  which,  with  uninterrupted 
stirring,  becomes  lighter  and  lighter 
until  it  disappears  entirely,  and  the  fat 
acquires  a  yellowish  tint.  When  a 
sample  taken  occasionally  from  the  vat 
shows  no  essential  changes  the  bleach- 
ing process  may  be  considered  finished, 
and  it  only  remains  to  wash  the  fat  by 
means  of  a  watering-pot,  using  about 
10  to  12  pounds  of  water  for  every  100 
pounds  of  fat. 

Process  of  Gaining  Glycerine.  The 
following  process  is  used  for  extracting 
glycerine  from  soap-boiler's  lye  con- 
taining salts :  The  lyes  are  neutralized 
and  evaporated  as  much  as  possible. 
A  large  part  of  the  salts  is  separated  in 
solid  form  ;  this  is  removed  and  washed 
with  neutralized  lye.  The  fluid  con- 


OILS  AND  FATS. 


251 


taining  the  glycerine  is  again  evapo- 
rated and  compounded  with  such  a  quan- 
tity of  oJeic  acid  or  of  trioleius,  as  oil, 
tallow,  lard,  etc.,  that  the  mixture  con- 
tains to  every  molecule  of  glycerine 
somewhat  more  than  1  molecule  of 
pleic  or  sebacic  acid.  The  compound 
is  first  heated  in  a  still  to  338°  F.  by 
steam,  and  then  gradually  to  392°  F., 
whereby  the  air  may  be  excluded  by 
introducing  carbonic  acid.  A  still  pro- 
vided with  a  stirring  apparatus  is  used. 
Water  escapes,  which  may  be  partly 
present  as  such  and  is  partly  liberated 
as  a  decomposition  product.  Thenion- 
oleiu  thus  formed  is  saponified  with 
lime.  A  solution  of  glycerine  in  water 
is  obtained  from  which  commercial 
glycerine  is  gained  by  evaporation.  A 
lane  soap  is  also  produced  which,  after 
having  been  freed  from  acid,  may  be 
again  used. 

Corn  Oil  from  Corn  Mash.  The  day 
before  the  mash  is  to  be  distilled,  the 
oil  is  skimmed  from  the  surface  with  a 
sheet-iron  skimmer  and  poured  through 
a  fine  sieve  into  a  wooden  vat  having  a 
capacity  of  44  gallons.  When  the  vat 
is  i  full  of  oil  it  is  filled  up  with  hot 
water,  and  the  mixture,  after  being 
thoroughly  stirred,  is  filtered  through 
linen  into  another  vat  provided  with 
2  cocks,  1  near  the  bottom  for  draw- 
ing oft'  the  water,  and  the  other  about 
5  inches  higher  un  for  the  oil.  After 
the  filtrate  has  stood  for  a  few  hours, 
and  the  water  has  separated  from  the 
oil,  the  latter  is  carefully  drawn  off. 
If  it  is  to  be  quite  clear  and  transpar- 
ent, it  is  poured  into  a  glass  balloon  and 
exposed  to  the  rays  of  the  sun,  when, 
after  the  slimy  precipitate  which  is 
formed  has  settled,  the  clear  oil  is 
poured  off.  The  oil  may  be  used  for 
illuminating  and  lubricating  purposes. 

Oil  from  Acid  Tar.  Good  oil 
suitable  for  lubricating  purposes  and 
as  a  substitute  for  linseed  oil  in  the 
manufacture  of  printing-inks  may  be 
obtained  from  the  acid  tar  of  oil  re- 
fineries by  diluting  it  with  benzine, 
then  separating  the  acid  by  repeated 
washings,  distilling,  and  next  treating 
with  milk  of  chloride  of  lime  at  a 
temperature  not  exceeding  140°  F. 
After  the  oil  has  been  thus  treated  the 
limy  sediment  is  drawn  off  and  a 
caustic  or  carbonated  alkali  introduced 


to  neutralize  any  of  the  remaining 
chlorides  or  chlorine.  The  alkaline 
sediment  is  next  drawn  off,  and,  after 
the  oil  has  been  again  washed  with 
water,  the  process  is  finished. 

To  Refine  Cotton-seed  Oil.  One  hun- 
t  dred  gallons  of  the  crude  oil  are  placed 
in  a  tank  and  3  gallons  of  caustic 
lye  of  45°  Beaume  gradually  added 
and  well  stirred  for  several  hours; 
or  the  same  quantity  of  oil  is  treated 
with  about  6  gallons  of  soda-lye  of  25° 
to  30°  Beaume,  and  heated  for  an  hour 
or  more  to  about  200°  to  240°  F.,  under 
constant  stirring,  and  left  to  settle.  The 
clear  yellow  oil  is  then  separated  from 
the  brown-soap  sediment,  which  is 
placed  into  bags  to  allow  the  remain- 
der of  the  oil  to  drain  oft'.  The  soap 
sediment  is  sold  to  soap-makers.  The 
potash-lye  must  be  made  in  iron  pots, 
but  the  oil  and  lye  may  be  mixed  in 
wooden  tanks. 

To  Purify  Train  Oil.  Add  to  1  gal- 
lon of  train  oil  U  ounces  each  of  chalk 
and  slaked  lime  and  £  pint  of  water; 
stir  the  mixture  thoroughly,  let  it  stand 
ibr  several  days,  and  then  add  f  pint 
more  of  water  and  3  ounces  of  potash  ; 
heat  the  fluid  without  letting  it  come  to 
a  boil,  and  take  it  from  the  fire  when 
the  oil  has  acquired  a  light  amber 
color.  Finally  add  a  solution  of  1 
ounce  of  salt  in  J  pint  of  water,  let  the 
mixture  boil  for  £  hour  and  pour  it 
into  a  reservoir. 

To  Purify  Illuminating  Oil.  Mix 
200  gallons  of  oil  with  60  pounds  of 
sulphuric  acid,  and  stir  for  3  hours. 
Add  a  mixture  of  6  pounds  of  clay,  15 
pounds  of  slaked  lime,  and  200  gallons 
of  water,  and  boil  the  whole  for  3  hours, 
•with  constant  stirring.  When  cold 
draw  off  the  oil,  which  will  be  entirely 
pure. 

To  Purify  Turbid  or  Impure  Poppy- 
seed  Oil.  To  5  parts  of  oil  add  2  of 
cows'  milk,  and  let  the  mixture  boil 
for  i  hour.  Then  remove  it  from  the 
fire,  and  when  lukewarm  filter  it  into 
bottles.  This  oil  will  in  a  few  days  be 
as  clear  as  good  olive  oil  and  resemble 
it  very  much  in  taste. 

To  Purify  Animal  Oils.  Animal 
oils  in  their  natural  state  contain  sticky 
and  albuminous  substances,  making 
them  unfit  for  lubricating  machinery. 
The  following  process  is  recommended 


252 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


by  Spencer  to  remove  these  evils.  The 
process  proposed  by  him  is  as  follows : 
Twenty-five  gallons  of  boiling  water  are 
poured  over  3  quarts  of  gall-nuts,  al- 
lowed to  stand  for  3  hours,  being  fre- 
quently stirred,  and  the  supernatant 
clear  fluid  is  then  poured  off.  This 
is  mixed  with  125  pounds  of  bone  oil 
and  the  mixture  boiled  for  4  to  6  hours. 
By  adding  8  ounces  of  sulphuric  acid 
to  the  mixture,  and  thoroughly  stir- 
ring, the  sticky  and  albuminous  mat- 
ters will  be  separated  in  an  insoluble 
state. 

£ot(ger's  Simple  Process  of  Making 
Commercial  Petroleum  Clear  as  Water 
without  Distilling  it.  Place  1  quart 
of  ordinary  petroleum  in  a  glass  flask 
and  compound  it  with  4  to  6  ounces  of 
fuming  sulphuric  acid;  close  the  flask 
with  a  glass  stopper,  shake  the  mixture 
several  times  every  day  for  several 
days.  The  oil  will  in  the  course  of  8 
days  become  clear  as  water,  all  the  for- 
eign organic  substances  mixed  with  the 
oil  having  been  carbonized.  The  bottle 
is  then  opened,  care  being  had  not  to 
inhale  the  acid  vapor;  the  clear  oil  is 
drawn  off  into  another  flask  by  means 
of  a  siphon,  several  times  shaken  with 
water  frequently  renewed,  allowed  to 
stand  quietly  for  some  time,  and  then 
poured  into  a  third  flask  containing  3 
ounces  of  caustic  lime  ift  pieces  as  large 
as  a  pea,  when  it  is  shaken  several 
times  and  then  allowed  to  stand  quietly. 
The  oil  thus  purified  is  clear  as  water 
and  well  adapted  for  swelling  and  dis- 
solving caoutchouc  in  small  pieces. 

Oil  from  Sunflower  Seed.  The  seeds 
of  sunflowers  yield  15  per  cent,  of  oil. 
It  is  used  as  a  table  oil,  for  illuminat- 
ing purposes,  and  in  the  -manufacture 
of  soap.  Macassar  oil  may  also  be  pre- 
pared from  it.  This  is  done  by  dissolv- 
ing J  ounce  of  cocoa  butter  and  stirring 
into  it  3  ounces  of  oil  of  sunHower  seed, 
entirely  odorless,  and  £  ounce  each  of 
goose  grease  and  melted  horse  grease. 
This  oil  is  poured  into  a  flask  and 
mixed  with  the  following  ingredients  : 
One-quarter  ounce  each  of  liquid  storax 
and  oil  of  eggs,  J  drachm  each  of  neroli 
and  rose  oil,  £  drachm  of  oil  of  thyme, 
and  20  drops  of  Peruvian  balsam.  The 
mixture  is  allowed  to  stand  for  a  few 
hours,  and  the  supernatant  pure  oil 
then  poured  off. 


To  Prepare  Oil  Used  in  Pumicing 
Wood.  Mix  2  pounds  of  old  linseed 
oil  with  2i  ounces  of  finely-rubbed 
silver  litharge  in  a  glazed  pot  holding 
at  least  one-third  more  than  the  quan- 
tity required,  place  this  over  a  coal  fire 
and  boil  the  oil  for  1  to  2  hours,  stir- 
ring constantly.  The  oil  is  now  allowed 
to  stand  quietly  for  a  few  days,  and  is 
then  carefully  poured  off  the  sediment 
into  a  dry  vessel  or  flask,  and  the  oil 
yet  remaining  in  the  residue  gained  by 
straining  through  close  linen.  The  oil 
is  then  mixed  with  half  its  quantity  of 
oil  of  turpentine,  the  whole  thoroughly 
mixed,  and  the  oil  is  ready  for  use. 

Cowper's  Process  of  Deodorizing  Coal- 
tar,  Rosin  Oil,  etc.  Heat  1400  pounds 
of  rosin  oil  to  260°  F.,  then  add  100 
pounds  of  heavy  coal-tar  oil,  and  in- 
troduce superheated  steam  of  about 
400°  F.  through  a  perforated  tube  in 
the  bottom  of  the  boiler  for  about  10 
hours.  Oil  thus  prepared  is  especially 
adapted  for  the  manufacture  of  varnish. 
For  preparing  white  varnish  the  oil  is 
intimately  mixed  with  some  dilute  sul- 
phuric acid,  which  is  afterwards  re- 
moved by  treating  with  steam,  which 
is  best  ddie  in  a  still,  whereby  the 
escaping  volatile  oil  can  be  condensed 
and  regained. 

To  Detect  Rape- seed  Oil  and  all  Oils 
derived  from  Critciferce.  Dissolve  i 
drachm  of  caustic  potash  in  (i  fluid 
drachms  of  water,  and  add  §  to  1  ounce 
of  the  oil  to  be  tested,  and  heat  for  a 
few  minutes  to  the  boiling  point.  Strain 
the  entire  soapy  gum  through  a  moist- 
ened filter.  By  compounding  the 
filtrate  with  solution  of  acetate  of  lead, 
it'  will,  if  rape-seed  oil  is  present,  as- 
sume a  brownish  color.  Small  quan- 
tities of  the  filtrate  and  solution  of 
sodium  nitro-prusside,  placed  sepa- 
rately upon  a  watch  crystal  and  mixed 
together  with  a  glass  rod,  will  emit  a 
beautiful  but  evanescent  violet  to  pur- 
ple color  if  rape-seed  oil  is  present. 

To  Detect  Rape-seed  Oil  in  other  Fat 
Oils.  One  part  of  the  oil  to  be  tested 
is  dissolved  in  about  2  parts  by  volume 
of  ether;  then  add  20  to  30  drops  of  a 
saturated  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  in 
alcohol,  mix  the  whole  thoroughly  by 
shaking  and  let  it  then  stand  quietly 
in  a  shady  place.  Should  a  consider- 
able percentage  of  rape-seed  oil  be 


OILS  AND  FATS. 


258 


present,  the  lowest  layer  of  the  fluid 
will  at  once  assume  a  brownish  tint 
and  finally  become  entirely  black.  If 
but  little  of  rape-seed  oil  is  present,  a 
black-brown  coloring  will  be  percepti- 
ble only  after  about  12  hours.  The 
reaction  becomes  still  more  decided 
by  evaporating  the  ether.  Olive  oil,  I 
oil  of  almonds,  poppy-seed  oil,  and  fat 
mustard-seed  oil  do  not  show  this  re- 
action. 

Preparation  and  Uses  of  Paraffine. 
The  tar  is  washed  out  with  lime-water 
f< »rced  into  the  still  by  means  of  a 
montejus,  distilled  with  steam,  and  the 
distillate  separated  into  2  parts  :  crude 
light  oil  and  parafline.  The  latter  is 
crystallized  in  reservoirs.  The  light 
oil  is  treated  with  sulphuric  acid  and 
lye,  and  freed  from  acid.  The  acid 
and  lye  containing  rosin  and  creosote 
are  worked  up  into  by-products.  The 
oil,  on  being  distilled  in  a  vacuum,  gives 
essence,  photogen,  solar  oil,  and  pure 
paraffine.  The  latter  is  put  into  a  press. 
The  oil  is  again  treated  with  acid  and 
lye,  and  is  then  ready  for  the  market. 

The  paraffine  taken  from  the  press 
is  freed  from  the  oil  by  a  centrifugal. 
The  crystallized  mass  remaining  in 
the  centrifugal  is  further  treated  in  the 
machine  with  a  saturated  solution  of 
pure  paraffine,  and  then  formed  in 
wooden  moulds  into  bricks,  which  are 
pressed  as  cold  as  possible  by  means  of 
cold  hydraulic  presses. 

Another  process  of  cleansing  paraffine  j 
is  as  follows:   The  paraffin*  is  melted  j 
and  digested  with  about  ^  of  its  weight  j 
of  animal  charcoal,  for  a  few  hours,  so  I 
that  the  paraffine  shall  remain  in   a  | 
liquid  state.       When  the  purification 
is  complete,  the  paraffine  is  strained 
through  linen  and  crystallized. 

The  paraffine  of  commerce  is  a  color- 
less, translucent  substance,  perfectly  in- 
odorous and  tasteless.    It  floats  on  water, 
has  a  density  of  about  0.87,  and  melts  j 
at  about  113°  to  140°   F.,  forming  a  j 
colorless  oil,  which,  on  cooling,  again  j 
solidifies  into  a  crystalline  mass.     It  | 
boils  at  about  698°  F.,  and  volatilizes 
without  decomposition.    It  does  not  ab- 
sorb oxygen  from  the  air,  and  is  but 
slowly  attacked    by    sulphuric   acid, 
even  at  the  boiling  point  of  water.     It 
is  not  at  all  attacked  by  dilute  nitric 
acid,  and  only  by  the  strong  acid  after 


prolonged  boiling.  Lately  it  has  been 
discovered  that  if  paraffine  be  heated 
for  a  considerable  time  in  a  sealed  tube, 
the  result  is  a  more  fusible  paraffine, 
exactly  similar  in  its  apparent  chemi- 
cal composition,  but  much  softer  and 
more  fusible,  so  that,  in  fact,  if  the  heat 
be  continued  for  a  considerable  time, 
the  paraffine  being  still  under  pressure, 
a  perfectly  transparent  liquid  paraffine 
is  ultimately  obtained. 

In  addition  to  the  properties  which 
have  brought  it  into  such  extensive  use 
for  illuminating  purposes,  paraffine  has 
qualities  which  give  it  an  exceedingly 
wide  range  of  useful  applications.  It 
can  be  advantageously  used  in  oil  baths 
in  place  of  oil.  Independent  of  greater 
cleanliness,  it  can  be  heated  several 
times  and  continuously  to  572°  F. 
without  decomposition,  and  at  that 
temperature  i-emains  thinly-fluid  and 
clear  as  water,  so  that  the  drying  ap- 
paratuses in  the  paraffine  bath  are 
plainly  visible,  while  oil,  after  having 
been  frequently  heated,  becomes  black 
and  thickly-fluid.  As  paraffine  melts 
at  a  low  temperature,  vessels  of  glass 
containing  the  substances  to  be  dried 
can  be  placed  in  it  without  fear  of 
bursting.  The  vessels  used  in  the 
paraffine  bath  are  cleansed  in  the  same 
manner  as  those  in  the  oil  bath,  with 
benzole,  which  dissolves  paraffine. 

Filtering  paper  drawn  through 
melted  paraffine  will  bear  contact  with 
sulphuric  acid  for  weeks  without  being 
in  the  least  attacked  by  it.  Paraffine 
may  also  be  used  for  coating  labels  on 
vessels  containing  acids  and  alkalies. 
To  prevent  it  from  permeating  the 
paper,  rendering  the  latter  transparent, 
it  is  recommended  to  coat  the  paper,  be- 
fore pasting  it  on  the  vessels,  with  thin 
solution  of  gum- Arabic. 

Sponges  and  papers  saturated  with 
paraffine  furnish  products  preferable 
as  regards  stability  to  those  treated 
with  wax.  It  seems  also  to  be  availa- 
ble for  preserving  fruits:  apples  and 
pears,  being  dipped  into  melted  paraf- 
fine, have  been  kept  unchanged  under 
the  most  unfavorable  circumstances. 

For  water-proofing  wearing  apparel, 
military  equipments,  and  the  like  it  is 
much  better  than  rubber,  as  it  is  odor- 
less, and  does  not  become  sticky  with 
heat.  For  the  water-proofing  of  tent- 


254 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


cloths,  ground-sheets  for  soldiers,  etc., 
it  has  been  found  of  great  value. 

Paraffine  is  largely  used  for  the  lin- 
ing of  casks  and  other  wooden  vessels, 
to  keep  them  sweet  and  to  prevent 
either  the  absorption  of  their  contents 
by  the  wood,  or  their  escape  through 
the  pores.  If  applied  to  beer  barrels  it 
keeps  them  from  becoming  musty  and 
foul ;  and  by  filling  the  pores  and 
joints  of  the  staves  it  prevents  the 
escape  of  carbonic  acid  gas.  Water- 
buckets,  butter  -  firkins,  and  other 
wooden  articles  of  domestic  use  can  be 
similarly  treated,  and,  as  the  material 
is  cheap,  easily  obtained,  and  easily  ap- 
plied, it  may  be  tried  on  a  small  scale 
by  any  one. 

In  the  laundry,  paraffine  rubbed  on 
the  hot  flat-iron  imparts  a  beautiful 
gloss  to  starched  goods,  greatly  lightens 
the  labor  of  ironing,  and  leaves  no 
greasy  stain,  being  much  superior  to  the 
spermaceti  used  for  this  purpose.  Dis- 
solved in  naphtha,  paraffine  has  been 
applied  with  excellent  effect  to  decay- 
ing brick  and  stonework,  filling  the 
pores  of  these  materials  and  putting  a 
stop  to  the  destructive  action  of  the 
weather.  Fine  wood-work  exposed  to 
the  weather  can  be  protected  in  the 
same  manner.  Instead  of  using  sealing- 
wax  for  the  tops  of  bottles,  as  good  a 
sealing  or  better,  and  with  much  less 
trouble,  is  obtained  by  dipping  the  bot- 
tles into  melted  paraffine. 

JBelmontine  and  Sherwood  Oil.  For 
several  years  past  considerable  quan- 
tities of  naphtha  have  been  brought  to 
England  from  the  East  Indies  and  the 
Indian  Archipelago.  This  is  worked 
up  in  a  large  London  establishment  by 
distilling  it  with  superheated  steam  into 
a  light  oil  called  "  Sherwood  Oil"  and 
into  heavy  paraffine  oils.  The  Sher- 
wood oil  resembles  benzine,  and  is  used 
as  a  solvent  of  caoutchouc,  etc.  The 
heavy  oils,  purified  and  rectified,  furnish 
a  very  fine  paraffine  called  "Belmont- 
ine"  which  melts  at  140°  F.,  and  is 
therefore  especially  adapted  for  the 
manufacture  of  candles.  The  purified 
paraffine  oils  may  also  be  used  for  burn- 
ing in  lamps.  This,  like  all  other  nat- 
ural naphtha  recently  examined,  con- 
tains neither  creosote  nor  carbolic  acid, 
which  is  a  special  advantage  the  natural 
products  possess  over  the  artificial  tar 


oils  gained  from  coal,  brown  ooal,  and 
peat. 

A  New  Oil  from  California.  Hep- 
tane, as  this  product  is  called,  is  a  vol- 
atile oil  resembling  paraffine  oil,  and  is 
gained  by  making  incisions  in  the 
trunk  of  the  Digger  or  nut  pine  (Pinus 
sabinianus),  growing  on  the  lower 
ranges  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  prod- 
uct is  an  oily,  resinous  substance  which 
by  simple  distillation  is  converted  into 
an  oil  which  is  sold  in  San  Francisco  and 
neighborhood  under  various  names,  for 
instance,  Abietine,  Theoline,  Erasine, 
etc.  It  is  used  for  the  same  purposes  as 
benzine  and  is  especially  well  adapted 
and  preferable  for  removing  stains  and 
cleansing  gloves,  as  it  has  an  agree- 
able odor  resembling  that  of  the 
orange.  The  boiling  point  of  the  crude 
oil  is  only  a  few  degrees  above  that  of 
water,  and,  when  distilled  at  this  tem- 
perature, deposits  a  resinous  residue 
having  a  strong,  penetrating  odor  of 
oranges.  The  inhaling  of  the  vapors 
of  the  oil  produces  an  effect  like  that  of 
chloroform,  allaying  pain.  This  new 
product  deserves  the  attention  of  the 
commercial  world,  as  it  can  without 
doubt  be  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
perfumeries,  and  as  a  harmless  and  suit- 
able remedy  for  certain  ailments. 

To  Distinguish  Light  Oils  from 
Crude  Petroleum  from  Light  Tar  Oils. 

Light  Petroleum  Oil 
("Benzine"  or  "Beit- 
zoline.") 

1.  Consists    of   hep- 
tano  (C7  H16)  and  its 
homologues. 

2.  Heptane  contains 
84  per  cent,  of  carbon. 


3.  Commences  to  boil 
at  129.2°  to  140°  F. 

4.  Specific  weight  at 
60°  F.   about   0.<59    to 
0.72. 

5.  Smells  of  petro- 
leum. 

6.  Dissolves    iodine, 
the      solution      being 
raspberry-red. 


7.  If  brought  in  con- 
tact with  coal-tar 
pitch,  even  for  a  long 
time,  it  dissolves  very 
little  of  the  latter  and 
becomes  scarcely  col- 
ored, 


Coal-Tar  Naphtha  or 
"Benzole." 

1.  Consists    of   ben- 
zc>le(C6  11 6)  and  its  ho- 
mologues. 

2.  Benzole  contains 
92.3  per  cent,  of  car- 
bon. 

3.  Commences  to  boil 
at  170°  F. 

4.  Specific  weight  at 
60°  F.  about  0.88. 

5.  Smells  of  coal-tar. 

6.  Dissolves   iodine, 
the  solution  being  pur- 
ple,    resembling     an 
aqueous     solution     of 
permanganate    of  po- 
tassium. 

7.  Dissolves  coal-tar 
pitch  very  easily,  the 
solution     assuming    a 
deep-brown  color. 


OILS  AND  FATS. 


255 


8.  When  shaken  in 
the  (old  with  %  of  it* 
volume  of  melted  crys- 
tals of  pure    carbolic- 
acid,  the  latter  is  not 
dissolved,  but  forms  a 
layer  by  itself  separate 
from  the  oil. 

9.  Requires     for     a 
complete    solution    at 
an   ordinary  tampera- 
ture  '2  volumes  of  abso- 
lute alcohol,  or  4  to  5 
volumes  of  methyl  al- 
cohol of  0.828  specific- 
gravity. 

10.  Heated    with    4 
volumes  of  nitric  acid 
of  1.45  specific  gravity, 
the      latter      becomes 
brown,  while  the  oil  is 
but  little  attacked  and 
forms  an  upper  layer. 


8.  Can  be  mixed 
with  pure  carbolic  acid 
in  all  proportions. 


9.  Miscible  with  ab- 
solute   alcohol    in    all 
proportions.     It  forms 
a    homogeneous    fluid 
with  an  equal  volume 
of    methyl   alcohol  of 
0.828  specific  gravity. 

10.  Is  entirely  mis- 
ciblewith  4  volumes  of 
nitric  acid  of  1.45  spe- 
cific gravity,  becoming 
at  the  same  time  uni- 
formly heated  and  as- 
suming a  dark  brown 
color.     A  part  of  the 
nitrobenzole       formed 
may,   on   cooling    the 
fluid,  separate  as  a  dis- 
tinct layer. 


Many  analyses  have  shown  that  the 
light  petroleum  oils,  sold  under  the 
name  of  benzoline  or  benzine,  contain 
about  50  per  cent,  of  heptane. 

Practical  Purification  of  Crude, 
Heavy  Wood-tar  Oil  and  Preparation 
of  Crude  Wood-tar  Creosote.  The 
heavy  wood-tar  oils  obtained  in  the 
distillation  of  wood  tar,  having  a  specific 
gravity  of  0.993  to  1.025,  are  collected 
in  special  vessels,  then  brought  into 
sheet-iron  tanks  and  thoroughly  mixed, 
when  they  will  show  at  an  average  a 
specific  gravity  of  1.015.  This  oil  is 
then  brought  into  large  vats  open  on 
the  top,  and  a  strong  solution  of  carbon- 
ate of  sodium  is  gradually  added,  caus- 
ing a  strong  effervescence  and  the  acetic 
acid  to  combine  with  the  soda  to  acetate 
of  sodium.  This  is  continued  until 
all  reaction  ceases,  when  the  mixture  is 
allowed  to  settle.  The  supernatant  oil 
is  then  drawn  off  and  treated  with  cold, 
caustic  soda-lye  of  1.20  specific  gravity. 
This  is  best  accomplished  by  providing 
the  vat  with  a  stirring  apparatus  and 
agitating  the  oil  thoroughly  for  1  hour. 
It  is  then  allowed  to  stand  quietly,  and 
the  stirring  apparatus  is  removed  from 
the  vat.  To  promote  a  better  settling 
of  the  lye  it  is  advisable  to  heat  the 
fluid  towards  the  end  of  the  stirring 
operation  by  introducing  steam. 

The  separated  oily  parts  are   then 


drawn  off  into  another  vat,  and  again 
treated  with  cold,  caustic  soda-lye  of 
1.25,  thoroughly  agitated  by  means  of 
the  stirring  apparatus  and  allowed  to 
stand  quietly,  using  the  above  precau- 
tions. The  separated  oil  is  stored  in 
special  vessels  and  finally  rectified  in  a 
clean  still  of  wrought  or  cast  iron, 
whereby  a  considerable  quantity  of 
light  wood-tar  oil  will  pass  over,  which 
is  added  to  the  other  light  oils.  The 
heavy  oil  is  then  treated  several  times 
with  concentrated,  caustic  soda-lye  as 
above,  to  remove  the  last  particle  of 
creosote. 

The  heavy  wood-tar  oil,  previously 
washed  with  hot  water,  is  now  treated 
with  5  per  cent,  of  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid,  thoroughly  stirred,  and 
allowed  to  settle.  This  operation  is 
carried  on  in  a  wooden  vat  lined  with 
lead,  stirring  for  %  to  1  hour.  The  acid 
which  has  settled  is  then  drawn  off, 
the  oil  freed  from  all  traces  of  acid  by 
adding  2  per  cent,  of  caustic  soda-lye 
and  washing  with  steam.  It  is  then 
distilled  in  a  copper  still,  whereby  again 
some  light  oil  passes  over,  which  must 
be  collected  in  a  special  receiver ;  the 
heavy  oil  containing  paraffine,  which 
passes  over  later  on,  is  brought  into 
special  reservoirs,  where  the  paraffine 
separates  by  crystallizing  into  small 
laminaB.  The  oil  must  for  this  purpose 
stand  at  least  for  4  weeks  in  a  cool 
place.  The  liquid  oil  is  drawn  off  by 
faucets  arranged  on  the  reservoir  at 
different  heights,  while  the  crystals  of 
paraffine  remain  behind.  This  fluid 
oil  is  largely  composed  of  xylol,  but  is 
also  contaminated  with  eupione  and 
Kapnomor. 

The  crystals  of  paraffine  are  brought 
into  a  straw  filter,  pressed,  and  kept  to 
be  used  in  the  purification  of  paraffine. 
while  the  fat  oil  which  drains  off  and 
is  free  from  creosote  may  be  used  as  a 
lubricator  for  machines. 

The  lyes  containing  the  creosote  are 
neutralized  with  sulphuric  acid,  where- 
by the  crude  creosote  is  separated,  which 
is  stored  away  for  preparing  creosote, 
while  the  acid  fluids  are  evaporated  to 
dryness  and  calcined  to  regain  the  soda 
contained  in  them. 

/Separating  and  Purifying  fats.  The 
method  of  separating  the  constituents 
of  animal  fat  used  by  the  Oleomargarine 


256 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Manufacturing  Co.,  of  New  York,  con- 
sists in  mincing  the  fat  and  introducing 
it,  together  with  its  own  weight  in  water, 
into  a  wooden  tank,  which  is  heated  by 
a  steatn  coil  to  from  104°  to  122°  F., 
and  constantly  stirred.  After  2  hours 
the  oleomargarine  and  stearine  sepa- 
rate from  the  scraps  and  are  then  al- 
lowed to  cool  to  separate  from  the 
water.  They  are  then  thoroughly 
worked  with  2  per  cent,  of  salt,  put  in 
bags,  and  subjected  to  pressure  or 
centrifugal  action  in  a  temperature  of 
59°  F.,  which  separates  the  oleomarga- 
rine from  the  stearine,  as  the  latter  is 
not  affected  by  this  heat,  although  the 
former  is  melted  by  it.  After  the  oleo- 
margarine has  again  congealed,  it  may 
be  worked  a  second  time  with  salt  to 
separate  the  last  traces  of  water. 

To  Remove  /Sulphuric  Acid  (ind  Sul- 
Adhering  to  Mineral  Oils  after 
,  Periitz  uses  finely-pulverized 
dry  calcium  hydrate  and  40  per  cent, 
of  soda-lye.  The  quantities  by  weight 
to  be  used  can  be  determined  after  a 
few  distillations,  but  can  also  be  ascer- 
tained by  an  experiment  on  a  small 
scale.  The  process  is  as  follows :  As 
eoon  as  the  boiler  is  filled  the  powdered 
lime,  about  i  to  1  per  cent.,  is  added 
and  the  fire  started,  while  a  work- 
man mixes  the  powder  with  the  oil  by 
means  of  a  wooden  implement.  As 
goon  as  the  oil  has  been  mixed  for  i 
hour,  40  per  cent,  of  soda-lye  is  added, 
.mixed  for  £  hour,  and  the  boiler  closed. 
Petroleum,  containing  many  oils  with 
a  low  boiling  point,  must  be  mixed 
while  cold,  or  treated  with  the  alkalies 
in  a  mixing  apparatus  hermetically 
closed,  and  then  pumped  or  forced  into 
the  boiler.  The  sulphur  combinations 
in  the  mineral  oils  are  decomposed  by 
the  added  alkaline  hydrates  during  the 
high  temperature  prevailing  in  the  last 
stage  of  the  distillation,  and  remain 
mostly  sodium  sulphide  or  calcium  sul- 
phide. If  the  asphaitum  can  be  util- 
ized it  is  advisable  to  distil  only  to  the 
formation  of  asphaitum,  but  if  not,  to 
finish  distilling  in  horizontal  retorts. 
This  method  will,  it  is  claimed,  give  5 
to  10  per  cent,  more  of  pure  white 
illuminating  oil  than  any  other.  The 
oil  has  an  agreeable  ethereal  odor;  the 
heavy  paraffine  oils  have  a,  light  yel- 
lowish color  shading  finally  slightly 


into  green,  and  are  entirely  free  from 
chrysene  and  pyrene. 

Coal-tar  Varnish  Oil.  The  second 
distillate  passing  over  in  purifying 
crude,  light  coal-tar  oil,  having  a 
specific  gravity  of  0.850  to  0.890,  and 
also  the  first  distillate  gained  in  purify- 
ing crude,  heavy  coal-tar  oil,  are  used 
for  manufacturing  varnish  oil.  The  2 
distillates  combined  show  a  specific 
gravity  of  0.900.  Place  about  200 
pounds  of  this  in  a  holder  lined  with 
lead,  add  1  pound  of  chromate  of 
potassium,  8i  ounces  of  pyrolusite, 
and  about  4  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid, 
stir  constantly  for  1  hour,  then  let 
the  mixture  stand  quietly  for  a  few 
hours,  and  draw  off  the  oil,  which  has 
assumed  a  dark  color,  while  many 
resinous  substances  remain  with  the 
acid  upon  the  bottom  of  the  holder. 
First  wash  the  oil  with  warm  water, 
then  add  2  per  cent,  of  caustic  soda-lye 
of  5°  Beaume,  stir  thoroughly  and 
allow  to  stand  quietly  for  a  few  hours, 
during  which  many  impurities  and 
resinous  substances  are  removed  by  the 
lye.  Repeat  this  operation  once  more, 
using  only  8i  ounces  of  chromate  of 
potassium,  4  ounces  of  pyrolusite,  and 
2  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid.  The  oil  is 
again  washed  and  freed  from  acid  with 
2  per  cent,  of  caustic  soda-lye  of  5°  B. 
After  allowing  it  to  stand  for  some  time 
the  clear  oil  is  brought  into  a  copper 
still,  and  distilled  at  first  with  a  moder- 
ate fire.  Some  benzole  passes  over 
first,  which  is  removed,  and  then  the 
varnish  oil  having  a  specific  gravity  of 
0.880.  It  is  clear  a«  water,  has  a 
slightly  aromatic  but  not  disagreeable 
smell,  and  does  not  turn  yellow  on  ex- 
posure to  the  air.  It  is  an  excellent 
solvent  for  resins  and  fatty  substances, 
especially  when  it  is  once  more  rectified 
with  double-rectified  oil  of  turpentine. 

(For  Varnishes,  Printing-ink,  and 
Lubricants  prepared  with  this  oil  see 
under  the  respective  headings.) 

Process  of  Producing  Heavy  Coal-tar 
Oil  in  England.  Place  the  crude, 
heavy  oil  in  large  cast-iron  stills  and 
introduce  superheated  steam  until  the 
oil  passing  over  has  a  specific  gravity 
of  0.91.  Then  shut  off  the  steam  and 
distil  with  fire  under  the  apparatus, 
whereby  water  and  heavy  coal-tar  oil 
are  obtained,  continuing  the  distillation 


OIL-PAINTINGS.    HOW  TO  CLEANSE,  ETC. 


257 


rantil  the  oil  has  a  specific  gravity  of 
0.99.  The  residue  in  the  stills,  consist- 
ing principally  of  asphaltum  pitch,  is 
run  off  and  sold  as  asphaltum.  The 
crude,  heavy  coal-tar  oil  is  now  further 
refined  by  mixing  it  intimately  with 
sulphuric  acid  in  the  proportion  of  100 
gallons  of  oil  to  15  gallons  of  acid,  in  a 
vat  lined  with  lead.  The  mixture  is 
allowed  to  cool  and  settle ;  the  clear 
fluid  is  then  drawn  off  into  another 
vessel,  and  to  every  100  gallons  of  oil 
are  added  10  gallons  of  caustic  soda-lye 
of  1.35  specific  gravity.  Stir  the  whole 
thoroughly  for  1  hour,  then  allow  it  to 
settle,  draw  off  the  clear  fluid,  and 
rectify  this  until  the  oil  passing  over 
has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.94.  The  oil 
is  then  conveyed  into  a  smaller  still 
and  distillation  continued  until  the 
contents  of  the  still  are  exhausted. 
The  oil  obtained  is  treated  with  dry 
ammoniaeal  gas,  whereby  naphthaline 
is  deposited,  then  filtered  through  a 
bag,  the  filtrate  forming  the  purified, 
heavy  coal-tar  oil.  The  lighter  coal- 
tar  oil,  having  a  specific  gravity  of  0.91, 
is  compounded  in  another  distilling  ap- 
paratus with  2  pounds  of  burned  lime 
to  1  gallon  of  oil,  then  allowed  to 
stand  for  some  time,  and  finally  dis- 
tilled. The  product  will  be  a  more 
volatile  oii,  which  can  be  rectified  by 
means  of  superheated  steam,  and  used 
together  with  varnish  oil. 

Manufacture  of  Yellow  Shoemaker's 
Wax  from  Purified  Coal-tar  Oils. 
Melt  400  pounds  of  rosin  in  a  cast-iron 
boiler  over  a  moderate  fire,  add  grad- 
ually 40  pounds  of  purified,  heavy  rosin 
oil  and  a  like  quantity  of  purified,  heavy 
coal-tar  oil  free  from  creosote,  and  con- 
tinue boiling  over  a  moderate  fire  until 
a  sample  taken  from  the  boiler,  on  cool- 
ing, can  be  kneaded  and  drawn  between 
the  fingers.  Now  let  the  mixture  cool, 
and.  while  it  is  in  a  liquid  state,  add  a 
mixture  of  20  pounds  each  of  chrome- 
yellow  and  chalk,  mix  thoroughly  and 
pack  the  pitch,  which  is  now  com- 
mercial shoemaker's  pitch,  in  boxes. 

Manufacture  of  Blacksmith's  Pitch 
from  Coal-tar.  The  coal-tar  from  gas- 
works, where  the  tar,  for  the  purpose  of 
freeing  it  as  much  as  possible  from  vola- 
tile oils,  is  allowed  to  run  back  once 
more  into  the  retorts,  is  used,  or  if  this 
cannot  be  had,  the  volatile  oils  must 
17 


first  be  expelled  from  more  thinly-fluid 
tar.  The  tar  is  brought  into  a  large 
distilling  apparatus  with  outlets  in  tiie 
bottom,  and  the  light  as  well  as  the 
heavy  oils  are  distilled  off" so  that  finally 
naphthaline  vapors  pass  over.  The 
cooling  water  is  then  drawn  off  from  the 
condensing  tubes,  as  otherwise  the  naph- 
thaline vapors  would  condense  and 
choke  them  up.  From  100  parts  of 
coal-tar  are  drawn  off  4  per  cent,  of 
aqua-ammonia,  3  per  cent,  of  light 
crude  oil,  and  15  per  cent,  of  oil  con- 
taining naphthaline,  the  residue  con- 
taining 48  per  cent,  of  pitch,  there  being 
a  loss  by  distillation  of  5  per  cent.  The 
pitch  is  very  solid,  of  a  eonchoklal 
fracture,  and  black-grayish  color.  It 
is  principally  used  to  provide  hot  iron 
with  a  glossy  layer  to  protect  it  against 
rusting. 

Testing  Oils.  Maumene  has  investi- 
gated all  the  different  methods  of  test- 
ing oils  in  regard  to  their  purity,  and 
found  that  accurate  results  can  only  be 
obtained  with  sulphuric  acid.  He  pro- 
ceeds as  follows  :  Fifty  grammes  of  oil 
are  placed  in  a  graduated  cylinder 
capable  of  holding  150  cubic  centi- 
meters. The  temperature  of  the  oil  is 
then  ascertained,  and  10  cubic  centi- 
meters of  concentrated  sulphuric  aoi<i 
are  gradually  added  from  a  pipette  and 
intimately  mixed  with,  the  o\\  by  stir- 
ring for  a  few  minutes,  and  with  a  ther- 
mometer the  maximum  degree  of  heat 
is  noted. 

The  temperature  of  50 grammes       will  rise 
of  pure  olive  oil  .     .     .     4'2°  C.      (107. 6°  F.) 


of  pine-seed  oil     . 

of  castor-oil 

of  horse-foot  oil   . 

of  oil  of  bitter  almonds 

of  oil  of  sweet  almonds 

of  rape-seed  oil 

of  beech-nut  oil 

of  peanut  oil    . 

of  sesame  oil    . 

of  hemp  oil 

of  nut  oil.    .     . 

of  cod-liver  oil 

of  linseed  oil   . 


43°  C.  (100.4°  F.) 
47°  0.  (lK,.fi°F.) 
51. 5°  C.  (124.7°  F.) 
ftoo  r,.  (128  f>°  F  ) 
52.5°  C.  (12fi.5°F.) 
5,7°  0.  (134.fi°  F.) 
(140°  F) 
(152.6°  F.) 
(154.4°  F.) 
(20X.40  F.) 


fi.50  0. 
67°  O. 

68°  C. 
98°  C. 


101°  C.  (213.8°  F,) 
102°C.  (215.0)°  F.) 
103°  C.  (217.4°  F.) 


OIL-PAINTINGS.  How  TO  CLEANSE, 
PACK,  AND  VARNISH  THEM,  AND 
TO  RESTORE  GILT  WORK. 

To  Cleanse  Oil-paintings.    The  very- 
important  knowledge  how  to  properly 


258 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


clean  oil-paintings  is  unfortunately  lit- 
tle understood  by  those  who  follow  it 
professionally,  their  manipulations  do- 
ing often  more  injury  than  benefit. 
The  various  substances  with  which  the 
colors  may  be  contaminated,  and  the 
variety  of  ingredients  composing  the 
varnish  coated  upon  paintings,  demand 
correspondingly  suitable  treatment.  We 
can  only  give  a  few  hints  as  to  the  best 
means  of  removing  stains,impurities,etc. 
A  simple  spirit  varnish  is  easily  re- 
moved, but  in  other  cases  it  can  never 
be  done  without  serious  danger  to  the 
painting,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  of  the 
utmost  importance  to  know  whether 
the  varnish  is  such  as  can  be  removed 
without  injury. 

1.  Water  removes  many  slimy  and 
sticky  substances,  and  contaminations 
originating    therefrom,   when,  for    in- 
stance, sugar,  honey,   glue,  isinglass, 
gum-Arabic,  white  of  egg,  etc.,  have 
been  applied  to  the  painting. 

2.  Olive  Oil  or  Butter  removes  many 
stains  and  impurities  which  resist  soap ; 
it  dissolves  pitch,   rosin,  and  similar 
bodies  which  would  require  spirit  of 
wine  or  oil  of  turpentine.     It  can  be 
freely  used,  as  it  has  no  effect  whatever 
upon  the  oil  of  the  painting. 

3.  Wood-ash  or,  what  is  still  more 
effective,  Potash  dissolved  in  water  is 
an    excellent    solvent    for    many  im- 
purities; but  it  must  be  used  with  the 
greatest  care,  as  it  easily  attacks  the  oil 
of  the  painting  when  not  coated  with 
varnish.     But  the  use  of  it  and  of  soap 
is  frequently  unavoidable,  as  they  are 
the  only  substances  which  can  be  used 
for  certain  purposes. 

4.  Soap  possesses  the  same  qualities 
as  the  above,  but  as  it  easily  forms  a 
combination  with  the  oil,  its  use  is  still 
more  risky.     It  must  therefore  only  be 
used  in  cases  where  nothing  else  will 
dissolve  the  stains,  and  then  only  with 
the  greatest  care. 

5.  Spirit  of  wine  dissolves  all  resins, 
therefore  it  must  be  used  to  remove 
resinous  varnishes  ;  but  it  attacks  also 
the  oils  and  softens  them  that  they  easily 
rub  off.     Oil  of  turpentine    dissolves 
some    resinous  varnishes,    and    many 
stains  can  only  be  removed  by  its  use, 
which  must  be  done  with  great  care,  as 
it  acts  very  quickly  upon  the  dry  oil 
of  the  painting. 


6.  Oil  of  Lemon  is  still  more  power- 
ful than  oil  of  turpentine,  and  should 
only  be  used  if  the  stains  resist  all 
other  means. 

Oils  of  Lavender  and  Jtosemary,  aa 
well  as  other  ethereal  oils,  are  as  pow- 
erful solvents  as  oil  of  lemon,  but, 
being  rather  expensive,  are  seldom 
used. 

If  a  painting  coated  with  a  varnish 
consisting  of  gum-Arabic,  albumen,  or 
isinglass  is  to  be  cleansed,  the  varnish 
must  always  be  removed.  This  can  be 
easily  recognized  if,  on  moistening  a 
part  of  the  painting,  the  surface  feels 
slimy.  The  painting,  if  such  is  the 
case,  frequently  becomes  clean  by  re- 
moving the  varnish,  which  is  done 
with  hot  water  and  a  sponge,  placing 
the  painting  in  a  horizontal  position. 
The  water  can  be  nearly  boiling  hot 
and  freely  used  until  the  varnish  begins 
to  soften,  but  then  cooler  water  and  in 
smaller  quantities  must  be  taken.  In 
case  the  varnish  should  adhere  too 
tenaciously  to  be  removed  with  a 
sponge,  it  may  be  rubbed  with  a  woollen 
cloth,  whicn  should  be  frequently 
wrung  out  and  dipped  in  fresh,  warm 
water. 

If  it  is  found  by  the  above  test  that  the 
varnish  consists  of  gum  resins,  or  other 
substances  not  soluble  in  water,  it  is 
best  to  use  spirit  of  wine  or  oil  of 
turpentine.  But  if  any  stains  remain 
behind,  the  painting  is  rubbed  with 
warm  olive  oil  or  butter.  The  rubbing 
is  continued  when  it  is  found  that  some 
parts  begin  to  feel  smeary,  or  the  im- 
purities combine  with  the  oil.  The 
oil,  on  becoming  dirty,  is  removed,  and 
fresh  applied  until  the  stains  have  dis- 
appeared, the  excess  of  oil  being  then 
wiped  off  with  a  woollen  cloth.  Should 
the  painting  require  further  cleansing, 
recourse  must  be  had  to  a  solution  of 
wood-ash  or  potash  prepared  as  fol- 
lows :  Dissolve  2  parts  of  potash  in  30 
of  water,  or  pour  4-i  parts  of  water 
over  2  of  wood-ash  ;  let  the  mixture 
stand  for  i  day,  stirring  frequently. 
When  the  earthy  part  of  the  ash  has 
settled,  pour  off  the  clear  fluid  and 
evaporate  it  to  i  of  its  volume.  Heat  the 
lye  somewhat  and,  with  a  cloth  dipped 
in,  rub  the  stains  until  they  disappear. 
Should  the  effect  of  the  lye  be  only  to 
attack  the  stain  without  entirely  re- 


OIL-PAINTINGS.    HOW  TO  CLEANSE,  ETC. 


259 


moving  it,  soap-boiler's  lye  may  be 
tried,  but  with  the  utmost  caution,  and 
immediately  using  water  when  the 
stain  disappears.  There  is  less  danger 
if  there  is  a  thick  coat  of  varnish  upon 
the  painting,  and  in  such  a  case  it  is 
frequently  possible  to  clean  the  paint- 
ing entirely  and  without  injuring  it, 
by  washing  freely  with  wood-ash  lye  or 
weak  soap-boiler's  lye. 

Should  the  stains  resist  all  the  means 
mentioned  above,  spirit  of  wine  must 
be  tried,  or,  if  this  fails,  oil  of  turpen- 
tine, and,  as  a  last  resource,  oil  of 
lemon.  The  stains  only,  and  no  other 
part  of  the  painting,  must  be  gently 
rubbed  with  a  linen  cloth  moistened 
with  the  solvent,  and  rubbing  must 
cease  at  once  in  case  it  is  noticed  that 
the  solvent  attacks  the  colors. 

After  rubbing  a  short  time,  immedi- 
ately apply  olive  oil  to  the  stain,  in 
case  oil  of  turpentine  or  oil  of  lemon 
is  used  as  a  solvent,  and  water 
if  spirit  of  wine,  mopping  it  up  with 
a  woollen  cloth;  frequently  the  oper- 
ation will  have  to  be  repeated. 

If  the  painting  is  coated  with  a  var- 
nish composed  of  substances  not  solu- 
ble in  water,  and  remains  dirty  after 
a  careful  application  of  the  mentioned 
means,  or,  as  happens  frequently,  be- 
comes clouded,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
remove  the  varnish.  This  is  done  in 
the  following  manner:  Lav  the  paint- 
ing upon  a  table  and  thoroughly 
moisten  the  surface  with  a  sponge 
dipped  in  spirit  of  wine,  rubbing  very 
gently.  After  thus  treating  the  entire 
surface  for  a  few  minutes,  pour  cold 
water  over  it,  which  will  remove  the 
spirit  of  wine  and  also  the  varnish  dis- 
solved by  it.  All  rubbing  or  force 
must  be  strictly  avoided,  as  this  would 
inevitably  injure  the  painting.  This 
operation,  when  the  painting  is  dry, 
may,  if  necessary,  be  repeated.  If 
paintings  with  an  old  coat  of  varnish, 
consisting  srenerallv  of  gum  resins  and 
Unseed  oil.  cannot  be  sufficiently  cleaned 
in  this  manner,  no  other  means  are 
available.  Such  varnish,  to  be  sure. 
can  be  somewhat,  reduced  by  rubbing 
the  surface  with  oil  of  lemon  and  then 
gently  with  olive  oil,  but  this  requires 
the  gVeatest  care,  and,  as  the  colors  of 
the  painting  generally  suffer  injury, 
is  always  risky. 


To  Remove  a  Painting  from  the  Old 
Canvas  and  Transfer  it  to  a  New. 
Paste  several  sheets  of  paper  over  the 
painting;  then  take  it  out  of  the  frame 
and  place  it,  paper  side  down,  upon  a 
level  table.  Now  moisten  the  canvas, 
but  not  too  much,  with  a  sponge  dipped 
in  water,  till  it  can  be  detached.  Com- 
mence on  one  corner,  rolling  the  can- 
vas up  and  continuing  to  moisten  it, 
until  it  is  entirely  removed.  Apply 
strong  glue  or  paste  to  the  back  of  the 
painting  and  the  new  canvas,  lay  the 
latter  upon  the  back  of  the  painting 
and  rub  with  a  roller  until  both  are 
joined.  When  thoroughly  dry,  care- 
fully remove  the  paper  by  moistening 
it,  cleanse  the  painting  from  the  glue, 
and  coat  it  with  Dutch  varnish  pre- 
pared as  follows:  Take  a  flask  large 
enough  to  be  filled  about  §  by  the  fol' 
lowing  ingredients:  Eight  parts  of  se- 
lected \vhite  mastic  in  grains,  2  of 
Venetian  turpentine  boiled  hard,  i  of 
elemi  and  30  of  pure  oil  of  turpentine. 
Cover  the  flask  with  a  piece  of  perfor- 
ated bladder  and  place  it  in  a  water- 
bath  until  all  are  dissolved,  shaking 
it  frequently.  When  cold  strain  the 
varnish  through  a  clean  linen  cloth. 

How  to  Pack  Oil  -paintings  for 
Transportation.  Take  the  painting 
from  the  frame  and  carefully  place 
upon  the  painted  side,  raw  cotton,  silk 
wadding,  thin  flannel,  or  similar  ma- 
terials, and  roll  it  into  a  cylinder,  tak- 
ing care  not  to  make  the  diameter  too 
small. 

To  Paste  an  Oil-painting  upon 
Wood,  use  cabinet-makers'  glue,  or  a 
compound  of  Greek  pitch  and  wax  ;  or 
prepare  a  paste  from  flour  and  a  little 
garlic  crushed  in  water. 

To  Cleanse  Beef's  Gall  to  be  Used 
as  a  Varnish  on  Paintinqs,  etc.  Boil 
in  a  porcelain  dish  45  parts  of  beet  :s 
gall  with  water,  and  then  add  2  parts 
of  powdered  alum.  Stir  the  mixture 
for  i  hour,  and.  when  cold,  filter. 
Then  add  to  the  gall,  which  is  now 
entirely  decolorized,  |  part  of  anhy- 
drous spirit  of  wine,  let  the  mixture 
stand  for  2  days,  and  then  pour  off  the 
supernatant  clear  fluid,  while  the  alum 
in  the  form  of  small  crystals  remains 
on  the  bottom  of  the  vessel. 

Cleansing  and  Lacquering  of  Oil- 
paintings.  Mix  1  part  of  spirit  of  sal- 


2GO 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


ammoniac  and  12  of  water,  and  rub 
the  painting  with  a  soft  sponge  moist- 
ened with  the  mixture.  For  lacquering 
dissolve  1  part  of  choice  mastic  in  2 
of  pure  benzine,  and  filter  the  solu- 
tion. 

To  Cleanse  and  Renovate  the  Gold 
and  Framework  of  Old  Altars.  Cleanse 
first  the  lustre  gold  by  rubbing  it 
gently  first  with  a  fine  sponge  slightly 
moistened  with  oil  of  tartar,  and  then 
with  a  sponge  dipped  in  alcohol,  which 
will  remove  all  the  dirt.  Dead  gilding 
is  carefully  wiped  with  a  white  flannel 
cloth  dipped  in  soap-boiler's  lye,  and 
then  quickly  dried  with  a  fine  linen 
rag,  which  will  make  the  gilding  ap- 
pear like  new. 

For  Cleansing  the  Frameivork  from 
dirt,  prepare  a  lye  by  dissolving  1 
ounce  of  calcined  potash  in  1^  pints  of 
water  and  wash  the  parts  to  be  cleansed 
with  asponge dipped  in  thesolution,and 
immediately  afterward  wipe  dry  with 
another  sponge,  which  will  make  the 
work  appear  like  new.  Then  varnish 
the  work  with  an  amber  varnish  pre- 
pared as  follows:  Introduce  8£  ounces 
of  amber  in  pieces  into  an  iron  pot 
about  5  inches  high  and  coated  outside 

1  inch  thick  with  potter's  clay.     Pour 

2  fluid  ounces  of  turpentine  over  the 
amber    and    melt    the   whole   over  a 
moderate  coal  fire.     Then   add   grad- 
ually and  with  constant  stirring 4 i  fluid 
ounces  of  hot  linseed-oil  varnish  and  1 
pint  of    oil   of    turpentine,   and    the 
varnish  is  ready  for  use. 

To  Repair  Lustre  Gilding  on  Altars. 
In  cleansing  altars  the  gold  work  is 
frequently  rubbed  off  on  the  raised 
parts,  while  that  in  the  depressions  re- 
mains uninjured.  The  injured  parts 
are  repaired  in  the  following  manner: 
Melt  white  wax,  Venetian  turpentine, 
and  a  little  soap  over  a  moderate  coal 
fire  and  apply  the  compound  to  the  in- 
jured places  with  a  brush.  After  one 
hour  lay  on  the  gilding,  which  will  be 
far  more  beautiful  than  when  laid  on 
size. 

To  Restore  Silver  on  Altars  and 
Tabernacles.  Prepare  a  solution  of  1 
ounce  of  Peruvian  balsam  in  1  pound 
of  alcohol,  and  with  a  sponge  dipped  in 
the  mixture  rub  quickly  over  the  sur- 
face, and  wash  immediately  afterwards 
with  a  sponge  moistened  with  fresh 


well  water,  and  then  dry  with  a  clean 
linen  cloth.  If  the  silver  is  rubbed 
oft' anywhere  proceed  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  given  for  repairing  gilding. 


PAINTS  AND  PIGMENTS.  GRINDING 
AND  MIXING  COLORS.  GRAINING. 
IMITATION  OF  MARBLES.  PAINTS 
AND  WASHES  FOB  VARIOUS  PUR- 
POSES, ETC. 

Grinding  Colors.  Although  this 
work  has  in  great  measure  been  super- 
seded by  the  iron  paint-mill  and  the 
introduction  of  ground  colors  put  up 
in  tin  boxes,  many  painters,  either 
from  prejudice  or  other  causes,  grind 
their  own  colors.  This  process  is  per- 
formed on  a  stone  by  the  aid  of  a  mul- 
ler.  The  stone  is  generally  a  slab  of 
white  or  black  marble  or  porphyry 
with  a  perfectly  smooth  surface,  and 
the  muller  a  stone  or  glass  pestle  with 
a  smooth,  flat  bottom.  A  small  quan- 
tity of  the  dry  color,  previously 
pounded  and  sifted,  is  placed  on  the 

j  stone  and  moistened  with  a  little  oil 
and  the  muller  worked  over  it  in  a  cir- 
cular direction.  The  materials  are 
gradually  worked  out  towards  the  edge 
of  the  stone,  from  whence  they  must 
be  removed,  and  also  from  the  sides  of 
the  muller,  with  a  spatula  or  palette 
knife.  All  colors  containing  arsenic 
are  injured  by  contact  with  steel,  so 
that  the  painter  should  have  an  ivory 
or  horn  knife,  called  a  "  voider,"  to  re- 
move the  ground  paint  from  the  stone. 
The  paint,  before  it  is  removed,  should 
be  perfectly  smooth  and  free  from  grit. 
Jirushes.  Either  round  or  flat  brushes 
are  used.  The  latter  are  used  princi- 
pally in  varnishing  and  in  graining. 
Smaller  surfaces,  such  as  mouldings, 
are  painted  with  "sash-tools,"  which 
are  an  intermediate  size  between  the 
large  brushes  and  "filches"  The  lat- 
ter are  very  small  brushes,  bound  with 
tinned  iron  instead  of  string. 

The  first  process  in  painting  wood- 
work is  that  of  "knotting"  As  the 
knots  in  a  piece  of  wood  generally 
present  the  ends  instead  of  the  side  of 

!  the  grain  to  the  eye,  it  is  necessary  to 

I  give  the  knots  an  additional  coat  of 
paint,  which,  by  filling  up  the  pores, 

i  shall  leave  the  surface  fit  to  present  a 


PAINTS  AND  PIGMENTS. 


261 


solid  and  uniform  appearance  when  i 
painted.  The  knotting  is  made  of  red  ' 
lead,  litharge,  and  boiled  oil,  or  spirits 
of  turpentine.  When  the  knotting  is 
dry  the  first  coat,  called  "priming," 
is  laid  on.  This  is  in  almost  all  cases 
white  lead.  The  priming  is  made 
thinner  than  any  of  the  subsequent 
coats.  When  the  priming  is  dry 
the  nail-holes  and  other  depressions  are 
tilled  with  putty,  and  the  whole  is  well 
dusted.  The  second  color  is  then  given, 
which  has  the  usual  consistency  of  oil 
paint.  As  a  general  rule  the  prepara- 
tory coats  of  paint  are  white,  whatever 
the  finishing  color  is  to  be.  When  old 
work,  or  that  which  has  been  previ- 
ously painted,  is  to  be  repainted,  care 
must  be  taken  that  all  grease  and  dirt 
are  removed  from  the  paint  before  the 
new  is  applied.  For  this  purpose  it 
should  be  washed,  if  necessary,  with 
water  containing  soda  or  pearl-ash,  or 
the  greasy  parts  should  be  cleansed 
with  turpentine,  if  roughness  exists 
on  the  surface  of  the  old  paint  it  is 
necessary  to  rub  it  down  with  pumice- 
stone  or,  in  extreme  cases,  to  burn  off 
the  paint.  The  manner  of  using  the 
brush  is  an  art  which  practice  alone 
will  give.  Sometimes  long  strokes  of 
the  brush  are  desirable ;  at  others 
shorter  strokes,  or  a  kind  of  dabbing, 
are  necessary,  especially  for  ornamental 
work. 

Graining.  Almost  all  wood  whose 
grain  is  of  a  tanciful  or  elegant  pat- 
tern, such  as  oak,  mahogany,  bird's-eye 
maple,  satin-wood,  black  walnut,  rose- 
wood, etc.,  may  be  imitated.  The  princi- 
ple of  imitation  is,  that  a  ground  shall 
be  laid  on  nearly  the  same  tint  as  the 
lightest  parts  of  the  wood  to  be  imi- 
tated, and  which  color  is  ground  in  oil. 
On  this,  when  dry,  is  laid  a  thin  coat- 
ing of  a  transparent  color,  which  is 
mixed,  not  with  oil,  but  with  beer:  and 
which  is  so  treated  with  a  comb  or 
ot.her  implement  as  to  yield  a  resem- 
blance to  the  grain  of  the  wood  to  be 
imitated.  After  this  is  dry  the  darker 
parts  are  put  in  with  a  small  brush  or 
pencil,  in  such  places  and  in  such 
quantities  as  may  be  deemed  advisable. 
The  whole,  when  dry,  is  then  varnished 
once  or  twice. 

Oak.  This  is  frequently  used  for  ex- 
terior work,  such  as  street  doors,  etc., 


teno 

I 


and  is  done  in  oil  as  follows :  For  the 
ground  or  last  coat  of  paint  previous  to 
the  graining  color,  rotten  stone  and 
white  lead,  mixed  with  oil  to  a  tint 
similar  to  the  lightest  parts  of  oak  is 
used.  On  this  is  laid  a  thin  coat  of  the 
"  megilp  '  or  graining  color,  which  is  a 
mixture  of  rotten  stone,  sugar  of  lead, 
and  wax.  In  a  few  minutes  the  grain- 
ing comb  is  drawn  along  the  wet  sur- 
face in  a  waving  line,  by  which  an 
effect  is  produced  similar  to  the  grain 
of  the  wood.  A  piece  of  leather  is  now 
wrapped  round  the  end  of  the  finger,  or 
of  a  stick,  and  with  it  the  paint  is 
wiped  off  in  little  patches,  spots  or  lines, 
in  imitation  of  the  light  spots  seen  in 
oak.  To  remove  the  appearance  of 
hardness,  a  dry  brush  is  dabbed  over  it, 
by  which  a  softening  effect  is  produced. 
When  the  graining  color  is  dry,  the 
dark  veins  are  imitated  by  putting  011  a 
little  Vaudyke  brown,  ground  in  ale. 

To  imitate  oak  in  distemper,  use  the 
same  ground  as  for  oil  and  apply  with 
a  brush,  the  graining  color  composed 
of  raw  and  burned  umber,  and  Van- 
dyke brown  ground  in  beer.  The  grain- 
ing is  effected  with  tools  made  on  pur- 
pose called  "veining  brushes."  The 
light  and  dark  patches,  veins,  etc.,  are 
produced  in  much  the  same  way  as  in 
the  former  instance.  When  the  whole 
is  dry,  it  is  varnished,  both  for  the  sake 
of  producing  a  gloss,  and  for  durability, 
since  the  graining  color,  being  mixed 
with  beer,  is  not  of  a  permanent  nature, 
and  requires  varnish  to  preserve  it. 

Mahogany.  Use  a  mixture  of  Vene- 
tian red,  white  lead,  and  a  little  crim- 
son lake  as  a  ground,  and  apply  a  thin 
coat  of  Vandyke  brown,  or  sienna, 
ground  in  beer  as  a  graining  color,  and 
dab  it  with  a  sponge  to  produce  the 
light  parts.  A  badger  hair  brush  is 
then  drawn  lightly  across  the  light  and 
dark  parts,  by  which  the  edges  of  divis- 
ion between  them  are  softened.  When 
this  is  dry,  the  deeper  tints  of  the  veins, 
knots,  etc.,  are  put  in  witn  a  darker 
shade  of  Vandyke  brown,  and  the 
whole  again  softened  with  the  badger 
hair  brush. 

Rosewood.  This  requires  a  brilliant 
ground.  A  mixture  of  vermilion,  lake, 
and  flake  white  is  used  for  the  purpose. 
The  graining  material  is  a  more  opaque 
and  solid  Vandyke  brown  than  is  used 


262 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


for  mahogany.  This  must  be  laid  on  in 
a  peculiar  way,  so  as  to  imitate  the  re- 
inaikable  contortions  of  veins  so  fre- 
quently observed  in  rosewood.  The 
light  and  dark  patches,  veins,  knots, 
etc.,  are  produced  in  the  same  manner 
as  in  mahogany,  but  with  a  careful 
attention  to  the  distinctive  character  of 
the  two  kinds  of  wood. 

Satin  Wood.  The  ground  is  the  same 
as  for  oak.  The  graining  color  is  Ox- 
ford ochre  ground  in  ale,  and  is  laid  on 
in  a  thin  coat.  This  is  dappled  by  let- 
ting a  sponge  fall  on  various  parts  of 
it,  by  which  portions  of  the  color  are 
taken  off.  The  edges  of  these  dappled 
patches  are  then  softened  with  a  badger 
hair  brush.  When  this  coat  is  dry  a 
flat  graining  brush  is  dipped  in  umber 
and  sienna  ground  in  ale,  and  is  drawn 
over  the  work  in  a  waving  direction, 
by-  which  a  softened  grain  is  produced. 
Maple  requires  the  same  ground  and 
nearly  the  same  graining  colors. as 
satin  wood ;  the  principal  point  of  differ- 
ence being  in  the  course  and  nature  of 
the  grain,  veins,  etc. 

Walnut.  Yellow  ochre,  umber,  and 
white  are  used  for  the  ground,  and  the 
graining  color  for  dark  veins,  etc.,  is 
raw  umber. 

Imitation  of  Marble.  This  is  accom- 
plished in  a  very  similar  manner  to 
that  of  woods,  a  study  of  the  natural 
appearance  of  marbles  being  the  only 
way  to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  the  best 
modes  of  imitating  them. 

Green  Marble.  The  ground  is  white 
lead,  some  yellow  and  blue.  When 
dry  it  is  pumiced  and  lightly  glazed 
with  oil  varnish  a  shade  darker  than 
the  ground.  The  patches  are  then 
dabbed  in  with  some  black  and  Paris 
yellow;  the  veins  are  painted  white, 
and  the  whole  softened  bv  a  peculiar 
mode  of  handling  the  badger  hair 
brush,  called  by  the  painters  "scum- 
bling." 

Dove-colored  Marble  has  a  ground 
of  light  lead  color.  Florentine  marble 
has  a  ground  of  white,  Indian  red,  and 
black  mixed  together;  Sienna  nlarble 
a  ground  of  yellow  ochre.  In  all  these 
cases  the  veins  must  be  put  in  with 
such  colors  as  will  most  successfully 
imitate  the  patterns  of  the  original 
marbles. 
Receipts  for  Colors.  American  Qreen, 


Grind  and  mix:  White  1  part,  yellow 
ochre  £,  lampblack  £,  Berlin  blue  20. 

Apple-green.  Grind  and  mix :  Min- 
eral green  1  part,  chrome-yellow  &. 

Apple-green  (Lighter  Shade).  Min- 
eral green  and  white  each  1  part,  chrome- 
yellow  iV. 

Apple-green  ( Very  Light  Shade). 
Chrome-yellow  1  part  and  Berlin 
blue  aV. 

Aurora.  Mix  chrome-yellow  1  part 
with  vermilion  &. 

Azure-blue.  White  1  part  and  Berlin 
blue  lie. 

Blue  (Cornflower).  White  1  part, 
Berlin  blue  &,  and  some  lac  varnish. 

Bluish-white.  Grind  very  fine  1 
part  ot  white  lead  or  zinc  white,  and 
add  ilu  of  indigo. 

Bremen  Green.  Mix  :  White  1  part, 
chrome-yellow  A, Berlin  blue  andiamp- 
black  each  &. 

Chamois.  White  1  part,  chrome- 
yellow  &,  vermilion  &. 

Cherry-red.  Grind  and  mix :  Cinna- 
bar 1  part  and  lac  varnish  i. 

Chestnut-brown.  Prussian  red  1 
part,  lampblack  ^5,  and  cinnabar  &. 

Crimson.  Mix  vermilion  and  car- 
mine lake. 

Enamel-white.  Add  a  trace  of  Berlin 
blue  to  1  pound  of  white  lead  or  zinc 
white. 

Flax-gray.  Grind  1  part  of  white 
lead  or  zinc  white,  and  add  &  of  lamp- 
black and  a  like  quantity  of  lake. 

Golden-yellow.  Grind  1  part  of 
white  and  add  &  of  chrome-yellow.  ' 

A  Beautiful  Golden-yellow  Color  is 
obtained  by  brightening  Naples  or 
Montpellier  yellow  with  Spanish  white 
or  white  of  Morat,  mixed  with  ochre  de 
Berry  and  realgar.  The  last  substance, 
even  in  a  small  quantity,  gives  to  the 
mixture  a  color  imitating  gold,  and 
which  may  be  employed  in  distemper, 
varnish,  or  oil. 

Grass-green.       Grind      and      mix: 
Chrome-yellow  1  part,  Berlin  blue  &. 
'  Grass-Green(LighterShade).  Chrome- 
yellow  aud  white  each  1  part,  Berlin 
blue  A. 

Hazel-yellow.  White  1  part,  yellow 
ochre  A,  red  ochre  and  black  paint 
each  jfo. 

Jonquil.  White  1  part,  chrome- 
yellow  &. 

Lemon  Color. .  White  1  part,  chrome- 


PAINTS  AND  PIGMENTS. 


263 


yellow  £,  Berlin  Blue  ?$a;  or,  white 
1  part,  mineral  yellow  J. 

Light  Gray.  Mix  T&S  part  of  lamp- 
black with  1  of  white  lead  or  zinc 
white. 

Lilac.  I.  Grind  and  mix :  White  1 
part,  lake  A,  Berlin  blue  ds. 

II.  White  1  part,  red  madder  lake 
and  ultramarine  each  aV. 

Mahogany.  Grind  and  mix :  White 
1  part,  sienna  &,  and  Paris  red  j$. 

Oak.  Grind  and  mix :  White  1  part, 
saffron-colored  ochre  &,  and  black 
paint  *fc. 

Olive-green.  Grind  and  mix :  Yel- 
low ochre  1  part  and  lampblack  A. 

Sea-green.  White  1  part,  chrome- 
yellow  iV,  and  Berlin  blue  rk. 

Silver-gray.  Grind  1  part  of  white 
lead  or  zinc  white,  and  add  enough 
indigo  to  obtain  the  desired  shade. 

Straw  Color.  Grind  fine  1  part  of 
white  lead  or  zinc  white,  and  add  &  of 
chrome-yellow. 

Sulphur  Color.  Grind  and  mix: 
White  and  mineral  yellow  each  1  part, 
and  the  necessary  quantity  of  Berlin 
blue  to  obtain  the  desired  shade. 

Violet  (Dark).  Grind  and  mix  equal 
parts  of  carmine  lake  and  Berlin  blue. 

Violet  (Medium).  Carmine  lake  1 
part,  Berlin  blue  A. 

Violet  (Light).  Carmine  lake  J  part, 
white  1,  and  Berlin  blue  A. 

Violet  (  Very  Light).  Mix :  Carmine 
lake  and  white  each  1  part,  and  Berlin 
blue  2*5. 

Violet  (Bluish).  Carmine  lake  and 
white  each  1  part  and  Berlin  blue  A. 

Walnut  (Dark).    Grind  and    mix: 

White  1  part,  umber  &,  and  red  ochre  5*5. 

Walnut  (Lighter  Shade).     White  1 

part,  saffron-colored  ochre  and  sienna 

each  ik. 

Walnut  ( Very  Light).  White  1  part, 
saffron-colored  ochre  and  sienna  each  &. 

PAINTS  FOR  VARIOUS  PURPOSES. 
Flexible  Paint.  Slice  2i  pounds  of 
good  yellow  soap  and  dissolve  it  in  H 
gallons  of  boiling  water,  and  grind  the 
solution  while  hot  with  3J  gallons  of 
good  oil  paint.  It  is  used  to  paint  on 
canvas. 

New  Paint  for  Floors.  Stone,  Wood, 
and  Brickwork.  This  new  paint  has 
the  advantage  of  saving  oil  and  lacquer, 
being  simply  a  combination  of  glue,  oil 
paint,  and  lime,  and  for  wooden  floors 


an  addition  of  shellac  and  borax.  To 
prepare  the  ground  mixture,  soak  2 
ounces  of  good  light-colored  glue  for 
12  hours  in  cold  water,  and  dissolve  it, 
with  constant  stirring,  in  thick  milk 
of  lime  (prepared  from  1  pound  of 
caustic  lime)  heated  to  the  boiling 
point.  To  the  boiling  glue  stir  in  lin- 
seed oil  until  it  ceases  to  mix.  About 
8|  fluid  ounces  of  oil  is  sufficient  for  the 
above  proportions.  Too  much  oil  is 
corrected  by  addition  of  lime  paste. 
Mix  the  above  with  any  color  not 
affected  by  lime,  and  diluted  with  water 
if  needed.  For  yellow-brown  or  brown- 
red  colors,  boil  in  the  ground  color  i  of 
its  volume  of  a  solution  of  shellac  and 
borax,  making  an  excellent  paint  for 
wooden  floors. 

The  mixture  is  easily  applied,  covers 
well,  and  forms  a  durable  combination 
with  any  covering,  and,  as  any  desired 
shade  can  be  produced  by  an  addition 
of  proper  colors,  it  may  often  be  sub- 
stituted for  more  expensive  paints.  A 
simple  coat  of  varnish  or  lacquer  gives 
a  beautiful  lustre. 

Water-proof  Paint.  Boil  2  gallons 
of  linseed  oil  with  11  ounces  each  of 
rosin  and  litharge,  li  ounces  each  of 
minium  and  umber,  add  gradually  8 
ounces  of  sulphate  of  zinc  and  a  solu- 
tion of  12  ounces  of  potassium  hydrate 
and  a  like  quantity  of  alum  in  4  gal- 
lons of  water.  For  preparing  the 
ground  color  compound  10  pounds  of 
chalk  and  2  pounds  of  zinc  white  with 
I  gallon  of  water,  in  which  H  ounces 
of  alum  have  been  previously  dissolved, 
and  mix  with  this  a  solution  of  li 
pounds  of  glue  in  £  gallon  of  water. 
This  ground  paint  is  mixed  with  4 
to  5  pounds  of  the  above  composition, 
and  the  mixture  diluted  with  petro- 
leum. 

Paint  Suitable  for  Vessels,  Sub- 
marine Works,  etc.  A  solution  of  400 
pounds  of  sulphate  of  copper  is  com- 
pounded with  100  pounds  of  grape 
sugar  and  a  concentrated  solution  of 
200  pounds  of  potash.  The  precipitate 
of  hydrated  oxide  of  copper  formed  by 
heating  is  filtered,  carefully  dried,  and 
mixed  with  8  pounds  of  75  per  cent, 
carbolic  acid.  The  mass  is  then  mod- 
erately heated  and  about  12-gallons  of 
crude  linseed  oil  added.  When  the 
paint  is  to  be  used,  it  is  reduced  with 


264 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


linseed  oil,  and  then  applied.  It  is 
claimed  that  it  has  a  poisonous  effect 
upon  animal  and  vegetable  bodies  de- 
positing themselves  on  vessels  or  sub- 
marine works. 

Cheap  and  J)urable  Paint  for  Brick- 
work. Slake  fresh-burnt  lime  to  a 
powder  by  sprinkling  water  upon  it 
and  pass  the  powder  through  a  sieve. 
To  100  parts  of  this  powder  add  suffi- 
cient water  to  form  a  thin  milk  of  lime 
and  boil  it  in  a  copper  boiler,  and  add 
1  part  of  bichromate  of  potassium. 
Make  a  thin  paste  of  sulphate  of  lead 
with  water  and  stir  it  in  the  boiling 
mixture.  Sugar  of  lead  or  the  nitrate 
of  hydrochlorate  of  lead  can  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  sulphate  of  lead.  Add 
cold  water  to  the  mass  and  pass  it 
through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  drain  it  off 
through  linen  or  cloth  bags,  and  press 
tho  residue  remaining  in  the  bags. 
After  sufficient  pressing  break  into 
pieces  and  dry  in  the  air. 

To  Prepare  a  Zinc  Wash  for  Rooms. 
Mix  oxide  of  zinc  with  ordinary  milk 
of  lime  and  apply  the  mixture  in  the 
sarn,e  manner  as  whitewash.  When 
dry  lay  on  a  coat  of  solution  of  chloride 
of  zinc.  This  combines  with  the  oxide 
and  forms  a  solid  coat  with  a  lustrous 
surface. 

Durable  Paint  for  Tin  Roofs.  Thirty 
parts  of  linseed  oil,  10  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine, 14  of  colcothar,  and  46  of  red 
chalk.  The  coloring  substances  are 
pulverized  and  the  mixture  ground. 
Should  the  paint  be  too  thick  reduce 
it  with  equal  parts  of  oil  of  turpentine 
and  linseed  oil.  To  protect  the  tin 
thoroughly  against  atmospheric  influ- 
ences it  is  advisable  to  give  it  two 
coats,  allowing  the  first  to  dry  before 
applying  the  second.  The  coats  must 
be  neither  too  thin  nor  too  thick;  a 
principal  condition  being  that  the  tin 
is  free  from  rust. 

White  Paint  for  Metallic  Surfaces. 
Pure,  finely-powdered  zinc  white  (ox- 
ide of  zinc)  is  mixed  with  a  solution 
of  soda  water-glass  of  40°  to  60° 
Beaume,  to  the  right  consistency  far  an 
oil  paint.  The  metallic  surface  t(|  be 
painted  is  thoroughly  cleansed  pnd 
washed  with  hydrochloric  acid,  and 
afterwards  with  water,  and  the  paint 
is  laid  on  in  successive  coatings.  Not 
too  much  paint  must  be  mixed  at  a 


time,  as  it  will  become  thick  and  dry 
on  standing,  on  account  of  chemical 
combinations  setting  in.  A  surface 
thus  painted  preserves  a  dazzling  white 
appearance.  By  adding  mineral  colors 
various  tints  may  be  obtained. 

Green  Paint  for  Articles  .Exposed  to 
the  Action  of  the  Weather,  such  as 
Doors,  Shutters,  etc.  Rub  2  parts  of 
white  lead  and  1  of  verdigris  with  nut 
oil  or  linseed  oil  varnish,  mixed  with 
oil  of  turpentine,  and  dilute  both  colors 
with  ordinary  drying  oil. 

Universal  Paint.  A  decoction  of 
Brazil  wood  and  flaxseed  is  mixed 
with  a  solution  of  caoutchouc  in  lin- 
seed oil  and  compounded  with  coloring 
substances  until  a  thick  paste  is  formed. 
It  can  be  applied  reduced  with  water 
as  well  as  with  oil  or  lacquer. 

Paintfor  Outside  Walls.  Boil  1  pint 
of  clear  linseed  oil,  4}  ounces  of  rosin, 
and  3  ounces  of  litharge  until  the 
wooden  spatula  used  for  Htirring  be- 
comes brown.  Give  the  walls  two  or 
three  coats  of  this.  It  is  best  to  do  the 
work  on  a  hot  summer's  day. 

Paint  for  Wood  or  Stone  which  resists 
all  moisture.  Melt  12  ounces  of  rosin, 
add  and  thoroughly  mix  with  it  6  gal- 
lons of  fish  oil  and  1  pound  of  melted 
sulphur,  and  some  ochre  or  any 
other  coloring  substance  rubbed  up 
with  linseed  oil.  Apply  several  coats 
of  the  hot  composition  with  a  brush. 
The  first  coat  should  be  very  thin. 

Cheap  White  Paint  for  Outside 
Work.  Slake  H  pounds  of  burnt  lime 
with  the  necessary  quantity  of  water; 
then  add  6i  pounds  of  skimmed  milk. 
Dissolve  4i  ounces  of  white  Burgundy 
pitch  in  12  ounces  of  linseed  oil ;  add 
this  to  the  lime  and  milk,  and  finally 
add  6£  pounds  of  Spanish  white  to  the 
mixture. 

Red  Wash  for  Brick  Floors  and  Pave- 
ments. Wash  the  bricks  with  soap 
water  containing  2V  part  of  carbonate 
of  soi 'a.  This  cleanses  the  floor  and 
prepares  it  for  the  reception  of  the 
wash.  Then  dissolve  1  part  of  glue  in 
16  of  boiling  water,  add  4  parts  of  red 
ochre,  and  stir  the  mass  thoroughly  to- 
gether. Apply  two  coats  of  this  to  the 
bricks,  and  then  give  a  coat  of  linseed 
oil  varnish. 

To  Prevent  Disintegration  in  Stone- 
work. Apply  the  following  solutions 


PAINTS  AND   PIGMENTS. 


265 


to  the  stonework  by  means  of  a  water- 
ing-pot provided  with  a  rose.  They 
should  be  applied  in  such  a  manner 
that  they  are  uniformly  distributed 
and  cannot  run  off.  The  solutions  con- 
sist of 

\.ForMa-rble.  One  part  of  white  shel- 
lac and  8  of  wood  spirit. 

2.  Far  Sandstone.  One-half  part  of 
shellac  and  8  of  wood  spirit. 

The  shellac  is  broken  into  small 
pieces  and  added  to  the  wood  spirit, 
and  the  mixture  allowed  to  stand  for  a 
few  days,  being  frequently  stirred.  . 

To  Make  Stiil-cloth,  Pliable,  Durable, 
and  Water-proof.  I.  Moisten  the  sail- 
cloth first  with  linseed  oil ;  ground  it 
with  Spanish  brown  rubbed  up  with 
linseed  oil  or  rosin  oil,  and  when  this 
is  dry  give  it  a  coat  with  a  paint  pre- 
pared from  Spanish  brown,  lampblack, 
linseed  oil,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
purified  rosin  oil. 

II.  Mix  96  parts  of  ochre  with  boil- 
ing oil,  add  first  16  parts  of  lampblack, 
and  later  on  a  solution  of  I  part  of  yel- 
low soap  in  6  of  water.  Give  the  sail- 
cloth a  good  coat  of  this  mixture,  and 
repeat  the  operation  2  days  later. 

Swedish  Paint,  for  Wood-work.  Melt 
3  parts  of  rosin,  add  '20  parts  offish  oil, 
and  heat  until  the  mass  is  uniform. 
Then  stir  10  parts  of  rye  flour  into  a 
paste  with  20  parts  of  water.  Next  dis- 
solve 4  parts  of  sulphate  of  zinc  in  9  of 
boiling  water.  The  3  mixtures  are 
combined  by  stirring  the  flour  paste 
into  the  solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc, 
and  into  this  mixture  the  fish  oil  con- 
taining the  rosin.  To  obtain  the  desired 
tint  a  suitable  mineral  color  finely 
ground  is  then  added,  when  the  paint 
is  ready  for  use. 

Paint  for  Constructions  of  Iron. 
Rolling-mill  and  hammer  scale  are 
finely  ground  and  washed,  and  then 
stirred  together  with  oil  varnish.  By 
painting  the  iron  work  of  bridges,  etc., 
with  this  composition,  they  will  be  thor- 
oughly protected  against  rust. 

Paraffine  Paint.  A  solution  of  paraf- 
fine  in  heavy  coal-tar  oil  is  excellent  for 
painting  houses,  and  especially  walls 
exposed  to  the  action  of  the  weather. 
Several  experiments  in  painting  damp 
walls  with  this  solution  have  given 
very  satisfactory  results,  ^yall  paper, 
Which,  formerly  became  moist  and  de- 


tached from  the  walls  during  rainy 
weather,  remained  perfectly  dry  after 
the  wall  had  been  painted  with  paraf- 
fine.  The  solution  of  paraffine  in  heavy 
coal-tar  oil  is  prepared  by  dissolving  1 
part  of  paraffine  in  2  to  3  parts  of  coal- 
tar  oil  at  a  moderate  heat.  A  sufficient 
quantity  of  oil  must  be  used  so  that  the 
solution  does  not  entirely  congeal  on 
cooling.  To  heat  the  paint  while  ap- 
plying it,  place  the  vessel  containing; 
it  in  hot  water.  It  is  best  to  apply  the 
solution  on  a  warm  day  when  the  bricks 
are  dry.  Generally  1  coat  is  sufficient, 
but  even  if  2  coats  are  given  the  cost  is 
considerably  less  than  oil  paint. 

Quickly-drying  Oil  Paint.  Boil  for 
15  minutes  in  an  earthen-ware  pot  1  part 
of  soft  curd  in  3  parts  of  water.  Pour 
the  mass  through  a  colander,  wash  it 
with  cold  water,  and  press  out  the  water 
in  a  linen  cloth.  To  1  part  of  the  curd 
add  i  part  of  unslaked  lime  and  J  part 
of  water.  The  fat  slime  thus  formed 
is  triturated  in  oil  or  water  with  the 
various  pigments.  Walls,  ceilings, 
stairs,  in  short  anything  of  stone,  plaster 
of  Paris,  or  zinc,  can  be  painted  with 
this.  If  the  paint  is  to  be  used  on  wood, 
add  A  part  of  linseed  oil.  Ochre, 
chrome  yellow,  Berlin  blue,  indigo, 
lead,  and  zinc,  are  best  adapted  for 
coloring  substances.  The  mixture  dries 
so  quick  that  3  coats  can  be  applied  in 
1  day.  It  is  entirely  without  odor  and 
costs  about  4  of  ordinary  oil  paint. 

Paint  for  Hoofs.  This  paint  consists 
of  a  mi  xtu  re  of  35  per  cent,  of  pu  1  veri  zed 
slate  (argillaceous  schist),  30  per  cent, 
of  pulverized  mica  slate  (mica  schist), 
and  35  per  cent,  of  pulverized  rosin. 
Compound  this  mixture  with  i  its 
volume  of  pure  coal-tar  and  boil  to  a 
fluid  mass.  This  paint  gives  a  very 
durable  and  pliant  coating,  which  does 
not  melt  in  the  greatest  heat  of  sum- 
mer nor  crack  nor  break  in  the  great- 
est cold.  It  resists  moisture,  retains  its 
lustre  and  smooth  surface.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  repaint  the  roof  for  4  or  5 
years. 

Paint  on  Wood  exposed  to  the  Action 
of  thit  Weather.  Mix  6  parts  of  un- 
slaked lime  and  1  part  of  coal  dust, 
both  in  a  dry  state,  and  then  add  suffi' 
cient  sour  milk  to  form  a  mixture 
which  can  be  applied  with  a  brush. 
The  color  of  the  mixture  is  a  light 


266 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


gray,  but  any  desired  tint  can  be  ob- 
tained by  adding  a  mineral  color. 
This  paint  has  been  tested  and  can  be 
highly  recommended  for  wood  and 
frame  work. 

Water-proof  Paint  for  Metal.  Dis- 
solve 3  pounds  of  Venetian  turpentine 
and  1  pound  of  mastic  in  heated  tur- 
pentine. Then  add  to  this  solution  96 
pounds  of  linseed-oil  varnish,  and  heat 
the  whole  in  a  water-bath  until  the 
odor  of  oil  of  turpentine  has  disap- 
peared. With  115  pounds  of  this  var- 
nish triturate  20  pounds  of  strongly- 
burned  clay,  80  pounds  of  best  Portland 
cement,  10  pounds  of  zinc  white,  and 
5  pounds  of  red  lead.  When  the  whole 
has  been  rubbed  fine  and  intimately 
mixed  together  add  25  pounds  more  of 
oil  of  turpentine. 

Coating  for  Blackboards.  Dissolve 
8  ounces  of  copal  in  1  pound  of  ether, 
and  compound  this  with  a  solution  of 
2  pounds  of  shellac  and  1  pound  of 
sandarac  in  3i  quarts  of  90  per  cent, 
alcohol,  and  further  with  5  ounces  of 
lampblack,  If  ounces  of  ultramarine, 

1  ounce  of  Venetian  turpentine,  and 

2  pounds  of  fine  Naxos  emery.     This 
mixture  is  applied  with  a  brush  to  the 
blackboard,    and   the    coating,    while 
moist,  ignited.     As  soon  as  the  flame 
is  extinguished,  a  second  coat  is  laid 
on,  which  is  not  ignited  but  allowed  to 
dry.    The  board  is  then  rubbed  with 
fine     sand-paper,     and,    when     cold, 
washed.    The  board  has  a  smooth  sur- 
face and  can  be  written  on  with  a  slate- 
pencil,  and  the  writing  washed  oif  with 
a  sponge. 

To  Protect  the  Bottoms  of  Ships  and 
other  Articles  under  Water  the  follow- 
ing mixture  has  been  patented  in  Eng- 
land: Sixty  parts  of  alcohol,  9  of 
shellac,  4  of  rosin,  3  of  Burgundy 
pitch,  2  of  soft  galipot,  4  of  arseniate 
of  copper,  3  of  arseniate  of  mercury,  9 
of  chromate  of  mercury,  and  6  of  color- 
ing substance. 

Dryer  for  Oil  Colors  and  Varnish, 
Heat  in  a  copper  vessel  12  parts  of 
shellac  and  4  of  borax  with  80  to  100 
parts  of  water,  when,  after  the  mass 
has  become  homogeneous,  the  vessel  is 
closed,  and  its  contents,  when  cold,  are 
poured  into  flasks,  which  are  kept 
closely  corked.  This  solution  may  be 
used,  as  a  quick-drying  varnish,  and 


when  mixed  in  equal  weights  with  oil 
colors  it  causes  them  to  dry  quickly. 

To  Prepare  Dryers.  Take  2  parts 
of  white  lead,  1  of  sulphuric  acid,  and 
1  of  sugar  of  lead,  and  rub  them  to  a 
paste  in  boiled  linseed  oil.  This  is  used 
as  an  addition  to  all  mixed  oil  paints 
except  white,  to  dry  them.  White 
lead,  when  mixed  with  this  siccative, 
assumes  a  dirty  color. 

Patent  Dryer.  Mix  15  parts  of  dried 
sulphate  of  zinc,  4  of  sugar  of  lead,  and 
7  of  litharge  with  boiled  oil,  and  pass 
the  mixture  3  or  4  times  through  a 
color  mill.  Then  mix  100  parts  of 
Paris  white  to  a  dough  with  50  parts  of 
white  lead  and  boiled  oil,  pass  this 
through  a  color  mill,  mix  it  with  the 
above,  and  rub  the  whole  up  once  more. 
The  result  will  be  2000  parts.  This  is 
mixed  with  the  paint  to  make  it  dry 
quickly. 

Dryer  for  Zinc  Paint.  6.66  parts 
each  of  anhydrous  sulphate  of  manga- 
nese, anhydrous  acetate  of  protoxide  of 
manganese,  and  anhydrous  sulphate  of 
zinc,  and  980  parts  of  zinc  white.  An 
addition  of  2  or  3  per  cent,  to  zinc  paint 
suffices  to  dry  it  quickly. 

Drying  Oil.  Boil  together  for  2 
hours  on  a  slow  fire:  £  ounce  each 
of  litharge,  calcined  cerussite,  um- 
ber, and  talc  with  l£  pints  of  linseed 
oil,  carefully  stirring  the  whole  time. 
Skim  and  clarify  the  mixture.  The 
older  it  grows  the  better  it  is.  One 
gill  is  required  to  every  1  pound  of 
color. 

To  Paint  Tiles  Red.  Cleanse  the 
pavement  thoroughly  with  a  brush 
dipped  in  soap  water,  or  water  charged 
with  &  part  of  carbonate  of  potassium. 
When  dry  dissolve  1  pound  of  glue  in 
1  gallon  of  water.  Boil  the  mixture, 
and  while  boiling  add  2  pounds  of  red 
ochre  and  mix  the  whole.  Then  apply 
a  layer  of  this  mixture  to  the  pave- 
ment, and  when  dry  apply  a  second 
layer  with  drying  linseed  oil,  and  a 
third  with  the  same  red  mixed  up  with 
size.  When  the  whole  is  dry  rub  it 
with  wax. 

PIGMENTS.  Black.  Lampblack,  the 
most  important  of  all  blacks  used  in 
painting,  is  produced  from  common 
rosin  or  other  bituminous  substances. 
A  very  superior  black  may  be  obtained 
in  the  following  manner ,  Ignite  a  lump 


PAINTS  AND  PIGMENTS. 


267 


of  camphor  and  hold  a  saucer  over  the 
flame  to  collect  the  soot,  which,  mixed 
with  gum-Arabic,  makes  a  black  supe- 
rior to  many  India  inks.  Miniature 
painters  who  use  colors  in  small  quanti- 
ties sometimes  obtain  a  most  beautiful 
and  perfect  black  by  using  the  buttons 
which  form  on  the  snuff  of  a  candle, 
when  allowed  to  burn  undisturbed. 
They  are  allowed  to  fall  into  a  thimble 
Which  is  immediately  covered  with  the 
thumb  to  exclude  the  air.  This  is 
found  to  be  perfectly  free  from  grease, 
and  to  possess  every  desirable  quality. 

Frankfort  Black  is  produced  on  a 
large  scale  in  some  districts  of  Ger- 
many by  calcining  wine  lees  and  tartar. 
The  operation  is  performed  in  large 
cylindrical  vessels  having  a  vent  in  the 
cover  for  escape  of  the  smoke  and 
vapors  which  are  evolved  during  the 
process.  When  no  more  smoke  is  ob- 
served the  operation  is  finished.  The 
residuum  in  the  vessels  is  then  washed 
several  times  in  boiling  water  to  ex- 
tract the  salts  contained  therein,  and 
finally  reduced  to  the  proper  degree  of 
fineness  by  grinding  it  on  porphyry. 

Peach-stones,  burned  in  a  close  vessel, 
produce  a  carbon  whroh,  when  ground 
on  porphyry,  is  employed  in  painting 
to  give  an  old  gray. 

Ivory  Black  can  be  produced  on  a 
small  scale  by  calcining  ivory  chips  in 
a  covered  crucible,  having  a  small 
aperture  in  the  cover,  until  no  smoke 
is  seen  to  escape.  It  is  the  most  beau- 
tiful black  for  painting  in  oil.  The 
commercial  ivory  black  is  generally 
nothing  but  bone-black. 

Brunswick  Black.  Melt  2  pounds  of 
asphaltum,  then  add  U  pints  of  hot- 
boiled  oil,  and  finally  1J  quarts  of  tur- 
pentine. It  is  used  for  painting  iron 
railings  and  other  iron  work, 

Black  from  Coal  Ashes  and  Blood. 
Pass  coal  ashes  through  a  fine  sieve  and 
mix  the  sifted  ashes  with  blood  to  a 
thick  paste,  and  dry  it  in  the  air  or  over 
a  fire  to  expel  the  water.  Win; a  en- 
tirely dry  the  mixture  is  brought  into 
a  drum  resembling  a  coffee  roaster,  and 
calcined  uutil  all  organic  parts  in  the 
blood  are  thoroughly  carbonized  and 
no  more  gas  escapes  through  the  joints 
of  the  drum.  It  is  then  cooled,  and 
the  lumpy  substance  remaining  in  the 
drum  taken  out  and  ground  to  a  fine 


powder.  This  black  is  used  in  painting 
outside  walls,  and  may  also  be  used  in 
the  manufacture  of  lacquers  and  shoe- 
blacking. 

Berlin  Blue.  Mix  2  parts  of  alum 
with  1  of  sulphate  of  iron,  and  add 
sufficient  water  to  dissolve  them.  Then 
prepare  a  solution  of  yellow  prussiate 
of  potassium,  add  a  little  sulphuric 
acid,  and  pour  the  mixture  drop  by 
drop  into  the  first  solution  until  a  pre- 
cipitate is  formed,  which  is  washed 
upon  a  filter  and  then  dried. 

Mountain  Blue.  First  prepare  a 
genuine  Brunswick  green  by  dissolving 
equal  parts  of  sulphate  of  copper  and 
common  salt  in  6  to  8  parts  of  boiling 
water,  and  dilute  the  solution  with  30 
parts  more  of  cold  water,  filter  the 
turbid  liquid  and  precipitate  the  oxide 
of  copper  with  milk  of  lime.  After  24 
hours  remove  the  precipitate  from  the 
fluid,  wash  it  repeatedly  in  cold  water, 
and,  after  cutting  it  up  in  small  cakes, 
dry  them.  These  small  cakes,  when 
dry,  are  placed  in  fresh-prepared  lime 
paste,  where  they  remain  for  3  weeks, 
being  frequently  carefully  turned.  The 
lime  is  then  diluted  with  water;  the 
cakes,  which  have  assumed  a  beautiful 
dark-blue  color,  are  taken  out,  washed, 
dried,  and  finally  ground. 

Ultramarine  (Artificial).  Mix  2 
parts  of  pulverized  verdigris,  1  of  pow- 
dered sal-ammoniac,  and  1  of  finest 
white  lead ;  moisten  the  mixture  with 
some  oil  of  tartar  (Oleum  tartari  per 
dcliquum),  put  the  whole  in  a  strong 
glass,  close  it  tight,  and  place  it  for  1 
hour  in  a  bake-oven.  Then  take  it  out, 
rub  the  powder  very  fine,  and  preserve 
it  in  a  well-closed  jar. 

RobiqueCs  Artificial  Ultramarine  Is 
prepared  by  calcining  3  parts  of  porce- 
lain clay  in  a  covered  crucible  for  1 
hour,  together  with  4i  parts  of  sulphur 
and  4  parts  of  carbonate  of  sodium  per- 
fectly dry  and  thoroughly  calcined, 
until  no  more  vapors  escape,  and  a 
sample  taken  from  the  crucible  has  a 
greenish  appearance,  The  caked  com- 
pound is  then  exposed  to  the  air  for  24 
hours,  when  the  color  will  change  to 
blue.  It  is  then  lixiviated  and  the 
residue  dried,  and  the  latter  again  ex- 
posed in  a  crucible  to  a  strong  heat. 
In  this  manner  3i  parts  of  pure  ultra« 
marine  are  obtained. 


268 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Carmine.  Pulverize  5i  pounds  of 
cochineal  and  i  ounce  of  alum,  and 
boil  them  in  a  tinned  copper  boiler 
with  distilled  or  rain  water  for  i  hour; 
then  filter  the  color  through  a  clean 
cloth,  and  add  solution  of  tin,  drop  by 
drop,  as  long  as  a  precipitate  is  formed 
in  the  warm  liquid.  After  the  carmine 
has  been  entirely  precipitated  wash  it 
with  clean  water  and  dry  it  between 

2  porcelain  plates  in  an  airy  room  but 
not  too  warm.    The  residue  can  ber  used 
for  Florentine  lake. 

Carmine  Lake.  Digest  at  a  moderate 
heat  2  ounces  of  ground  cochineal  with 

3  pints  of  distilled  water,  and  then  add, 
with   constant  stirring,    1   drachm   of 
alum,  li  fluid  drachms  of  solution  of 
tin,  and  1  drachm  of  pure  soda  dis- 
solved in  water.    Let  the  whole  stand 
for  2  days,  then  separate  the  sediment, 
wash,  and  dry  it. 

Florentine  Lake.  Boil  4  parts  of  cochi- 
neal and  12  of  alum  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  water,  then  strain  and  add 
to  the  hot  decoction  a  solution  of  pot- 
ash as  long  as  a  precipitate  is  formed. 
The  latter  is  washed,  filtered,  formed 
into  balls,  and  dried. 

Green  JBorate  of  Copper  for  Oil  and 
Porcelain  Paint  nig.  Dissolve  sepa- 
rately 16  parts  of  sulphate  of  copper 
and  24  of  borax  in  the  requisite  quan- 
tity of  water,  mix  both  solutions  by 
stirring  them  thoroughly  together,  col- 
lect the  pale-green  precipitate  upon  a 
filter,  wash  with  cold  water,  and  dry, 
first  at  an  ordinary  temperature  and 
then  with  the  aid  of  heat,  and  finally 
rub  the  powder  fine. 

Chrome-green.  I.  Pulverize  1  part 
of  bichromate  of  potassium,  li  of  sal- 
ammoniac,  and  1  of  carbonate  of  potas- 
sium^ Mix  the  powders  intimately, 
calcine  them  in  a  Hessian  crucible, 
and  wash  the  residue. 

II.  Pulverize  240  parts  of  bichromate 
of  potassium  and  5  of  sal-ammoniac. 
Mix  the  powders  intimately  with  48 
parts  of  gunpowder  and  form  a  cone 
of  the  mix  ture.  Ignite  the  point  of  the 
cone,  let  it  gradually  burn  down,  and 
put  the  hot  residue  in  water,  where  the 
green  oxide  will  settle  on  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel. 

Chrome-green  for  Painting.  Pulver- 
ize and  mix  19  parts  of  bichromate  of 
potassium  and  4  of  sulphur.  Calcine 


|  the  mixture  for  |  hour,  and,  when  cold, 
'  pulverize  the  compound  and  treat  it 
with  water.  In  this  way  9i  parts  of  a 
beautiful  chrome-green  are  obtained. 

Innoxious  Green  Color.  Digest  fof 
a  few  days  25  grains  of  best  saffron 
with  3£  fluid  ounces  of  distilled  water, 
and,  when  the  saffron  is  thoroughly  ex- 
tracted, filter  the  solution  and  niix  it 
intimately  with  one  of  25  grains  of 
indigo  carmine  in  1  pint  of  distilled 
water.  This  gives  a  beautiful  green 
color  of  great  intensity. 

Mineral  Green.  Put  whiting  or  lime 
into  a  vat  and  pour  solution  of  nitrate 
of  copper  upon  it;  stir  thoroughly  and 
allow  the  whole  to  settle.  Then  pour 
off  the  supernatant  liquid  and  add  more 
solution.  Repeat  this  operation  until 
the  desired  tint  is  attained. 

Neuwied  Green.  Dissolve  16  parts 
of  sulphate  of  copper  in  hot  water,  and 
add  a  solution  of  3  parts  of  pulverized 
white  arsenic  in  the  necessary  quantity 
of  hot  water.  Allow  it  to  stand  for  24 
hours,  then  pour  oft'  the  clear  liquid, 
and  add,  with  constant  stirring,  milk 
oi'lime  prepared  from  3  parts  of  quick- 
lime. The  green  precipitate  which  is 
formed  is  washed  and  dried. 

Paris  Green  or  tichcele's  Green.  An 
arsenite  of  sodium  is  formed  by  adding 
arsenic  to  carbonate  of  sodium  dissolved 
in  boiling  water;  next  sulphate  of  cop- 
per is  dissolved  in  water;  both  solu- 
tions are  filtered  and  the  first  is  poured 
gradually  into  the  second  as  long  as  it 
produces  a  rich  grass-green  precipitate. 
This  is  thrown  upon  a  filter  and  cleansed 
by  washing  away  all  particles  soluble 
in  water,  and  is  then  dried  and  pulver- 
ized. 

This  pigment  is  highly  poisonous. 
It  is  very  transparent,  works  badly 
under  the  brush,  and  covers  badly ;  but 
its  color  is  so  brilliant  that  all  other 
greens  become  dingy  brown  in  contrast 
with  it,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  fre- 
quently used. 

Schweinfurth  Green  as  made  in 
Schweinfnrth.  Dissolve  100  parts  of 
white  arsenic  in  1500  of  hot  water ;  next 
dissolve  70  parts  of  verdigris,  coarsely 
powdered,  in  300  of  boil-ing  water.  As 
soon  as  the  arsenious  solution  is  thor- 
oughly boiled,  and  the  verdigris  paste 
has  acquired  a  temperature  of  190°  F., 
of  the  arsenious  solution  is  intimately 


PAINTS  AND  PIGMENTS. 


269 


mixed  with  the  verdigris  solution  and 
the  whole  allowed  to  stand  for  3  hours. 
The  mixture  is  then  thoroughly  stirred 
and  the  rest  of  the  arsenious  solution 
added.0  In  the  course  of  2  or  3  hours 
the  precipitate  begins  to  form,  and 
thin  films  of  a  beautiful  green  color 
are  seen  upon  the  surface  of  the  com- 
pound, the  precipitate  finally  settling 
on  the  bottom.  The  liquid  portion 
is  then  drawn  off,  the  precipitate  col- 
lected, washed  with  water,  dried,  and 
sifted. 

Verdigris,  a  union  of  oxide  of  copper 
and  acetic  acid,  is  produced  by  exposing 
small  sheets  of  copper  to  the  action  of 
vinegar  in  the  following  manner  :  The 
refuse  of  grapes,  after  the  extraction  of 
the  juice,  is  placed  in  earthen  vessels, 
which  are  covered  with  lids  and  sur- 
rounded with  straw  mats.  The  mate- 
rials soon  become  heated,  and  fermen- 
tation, beginning  on  the  bottom,  rises 
until  it  permeates  the  whole  mass.  At 
the  end  of  2  or  3  days  the  fermenting 
materials  are  removed  to  other  ves- 
sels in  order  to  check  the  process,  to 
prevent  putrefaction.  The  copper  plates 
are  prepared  Ly  rubbing  them  with  a 
cloth  dipped  in"  a  solution  of  verdigris, 
and  then  allowed  to  dry.  When  the 
materials  are  all  found  to  be  in  proper 
condition,  the  plates  are  laid  on  a  hor- 
izontal wooden  grating  in  the  middle 
of  a  vat,  on  the  bottom  of  which  is 
placed  a  pan  of  burning  charcoal, 
which  heats  them  to  a  certain  degree. 
In  this  state  they  are  put  into  earthen 
vessels,  with  alternate  layers  of  the  fer- 
menting grape  lees ;  the  vessels  are  cov- 
ered with  straw  mats  and  left  at  rest. 
At  the  end  of  10  or  15  days  they  are 
opened  to  ascertain  if  the  operation  is 
completed.  If  detached  glossy  crystals 
are  perceived  on  the  surface  the  lees 
are  thrown  away  and  the  plates  are 
placed  upright  in  a  cellar,  one  against 
the  other.  At  the  end  of  2  or  3  days 
they  are  moistened  by  being  dipped  "in 
wafer,  which  is  continued  at  intervals 
from  time  to  time.  This  treatment 
causes  the  plates  to  swell,  to  become 
green,  and  be  covered  with  a  layer  of 
verdigris.  This  is  scraped  off,  pressed 
in  paper  sacks,  dried  by  exposure  to 
sun  and  air,  and  becomes  the  verdigris 
of  commerce. 

Indigo  Carmine,     Dissolve  2J  pounds 


of  indigo  ground  as  finely  as  possible  in 
13J  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid.  Then 
add  4  gallons  of  water  and  next  a  solu- 
tion of  potash  of  15°  Beaume  until  effer- 
vescence ceases.  It  is  then  washed  with 
water  and  allowed  to  settle,  this  being 
repeated  until  every  trace  of  acid  is  re- 
moved. The  paste  is  kept  in  glazed 
pots  well  covered. 

Chrome-red.  Ten  pounds  of  yellow 
chromate  of  potassium  and  20  pounds 
of  pure  white  lead.  The  white  lead  is 
first  ground  as  fine  as  possible  in  water. 
The  chromate  of  potassium  is  then  care- 
fully dissolved  in  25  gallons  of  boiling 
hot  water  and  the  white  lead  stirred 
into  the  boiling  solution.  The  whole 
is  then  boiled,  the  water  lost  by  evapo- 
ration being  constantly  replaced  until 
no  more  white  spots  appear  upon  the 
surface.  The  liquid  portion  is  then 
quickly  poured  off  and  the  residue 
thrown  upon  a  filter.  The  manipula- 
tion must  be  carried  on  as  quickly  as 
possible  lest  the  color  should  become 
too  light. 

Cassel  Yellow.    Heat  a  mixture  of 

10  parts  of  litharge  finely  prepared  and 
1  of  sal-ammoniac  in  a  Hessian  crucible 
until  it  melts ;  then  pour  the  mass  into 
a  mould,  powder  the  pieces  when  cold, 
and  grind  fine  in  a  color  mill. 

American  Chrome-yellou'. 

PARTS. 
* ^ 

I.    II.  III. 

Crystallised  sugar  of  lead     .     .     2i      21  21 

Jliclnx  mate  of  potassium      ..44  4 

Alum 20  .  20  20 

1 1  envy  spar 10     15  20 

Oypsuiu 

Dissolve  the  alftm  in  hot  water  and 
pour  the  hot  solution  into  a  tub  con- 
taining the  heavy  spar  and  gypajm, 
previously  passed  through  a  fine  sieve  ; 
then  wash  the  whole  gradually  and 
carefully  five  times.  In  the  meanwhile 
dissolve  the  sugar  of  lead  and  bichro- 
mate of  potassium  in  separate  vessels, 
and  then  stir  the  ehromate  solution  very 
slowly  into  the  solution  of  sugar  of 
lead.  When  all  is  settled,  wash  with 
fresh  water,  repeating  this  3  or  4  times. 
Finally  mix  and  mingle  the  two  pre- 
cipitates carefully  and  very  intimately, 
wash  twice,  and  throw  the  finished  pro- 
duct upon  a  filter.  It  is  customary  to 
spread  the  residue  without  pressing 


270 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


upon  drying  boards,  to  cut  it,  when  half 
dry,  into  square  pieces,  which,  when 
entirely  dry,  fall  off  of  their  own  ac- 
cord. The  boards  should  be  placed  in 
a  room  secured  from  dust  and  dirt. 
But  the  pigment  dried  in  this  manner 
requires  polishing.  This  is  accom- 
plished by  filling  a  bag  made  of  strong 
ticking  about  i  with  cakes,  tying  it, 
and  two  persons,  catching  hold  on 
opposite  ends,  shaking  the  bag  vigor- 
ously, whereby  the  cakes,  rubbing 
against  each  other,  acquire  a  gloss. 
The  yellow  dust  falling  through  is  col- 
lected and  added  to  inferior  qualities. 

Baltimore  Chrome-yellow.  Sugar  of 
lead  40  pounds,  vinegar  i  gallon,  bichro- 
mate of  potassium  8  pounds,  Roman 
alum  40  pounds,  Klagenfurt  chalk  20 
pounds.  First  elutriate  the  chalk 
through  a  fine  sieve  with  about  25  gal- 
lons of  water.  Then  mix  with  it  the 
alum  dissolved  in  about  30  gallons  of 
hot  water,  stir  constantly,  and  finally 
wash  carefully  with  water  4  or  5  times. 
Now  dissolve  the  sugar  of  lead  in  25 
gallons  of  hot  water,  stir  the  solution 
into  the  above  compound,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  k  gallon  of  vinegar. 
Somewhat  later  dissolve  the  chromate 
of  potassium  in  25  gallons  of  hot  water, 
and  add  this  solution  to  the  rest.  The 
further  treatment  is  as  given  for  Ameri- 
can chrome-yellow. 

French  Chrome-yellow  (Spooner's). 
Bologne  chalk  17J  pounds,  alum  35J 
pounds,  sugar  of  lead  48i  pounds,  red 
chloride  of  potassium  8|  pounds.  This 
is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as 
Baltimore  chrome-yellow;  the  cakes 
are  stamped  "  Spooner  "  with  a  wooden 
stamp. 

Paris  Chrome-yellow. 


F. 

FF. 

Sugar  of  lead    .     .    . 
Bichromate  of 
potassium  .... 
Heavy  spar  .... 
Sulphate  of  lead     .     . 
Bologne  chalk 

10  parts. 

3     " 
10    " 
20    " 

10  parts. 

3    " 
10     " 
25     " 
10    " 

Elutriate  the  sulphate  of  lead,  heavy 
spar,  and  chalk  through  a  fine  sieve  into 
a  vat,  draw  off  the  lye  and  wash  twice. 
The  sugar  of  lead  and  bichromate  are 
dissolved  in  the  same  manner  as  given 
above,  and  then  poured  in  succession 
into  the  vat.  The  mixture  is  com- 


I. 

II. 

III. 

IV. 

V. 

VI. 

Parts. 

Antimonic 
acid   .     .     . 
Plumbic 
oxide      .     . 
Zinc  oxide     . 

4 

2 

1 

1 

2 
1 

3 

3 
1 

1 

1 
1 

1 
1 

2 

1 

pounded  with  as  much  fresh  water  as 
possible,  which,  when  all  is  settled,  is 
drawn  off.  The  product  is  then  thrown 
upon  a  filter,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  prac- 
ticable formed  into  small  cones. 

Naples  Yellow  ( Various  Shades). 


Patent  Yellow.  Grind  1  part  of  salt 
and  4  of  litharge  in  water,  wash  out 
the  carbonate  of  sodium  and  heat  the 
residue  until  it  has  acquired  a  beauti- 
ful yellow  color. 

Vandyke  Red.  Prussiate  of  potash 
25  parts,  spirit  of  sal-ammoniac  2.5 
parts,  and  sulphate  of  copper  15:5. 
The  prussiate  of  potash  is  dissolved  in 
hot  water  and  carefully  compounded 
with  the  spirit  of  sal-ammoniac,  and 
the  whole  allowed  to  stand  for  some 
time.  The  sulphate  of  copper  is  in  the 
meanwhile  dissolved  in  another  vessel 
and  then  slowly  and  with  constant  stir- 
ring added  to  the  prussiate  of  potash. 
The  pigment  is  then  allowed  to  settle, 
and  the  liquid  portion  drawn  off  and 
the  residue  washed  and  rewashed  with 
clean  water,  and  then  thrown  upon  a 
filter,  where  it  should  be  dried  as  quickly 
as  possible. 

Innoxious  Colors  for  Painting  Toys, 
a.  White.  Calcined  magnesia  is  used 
by  itself  as  well  as  in  connection  with 
other  colors.  It  should  be  thoroughly 
calcined,  as  otherwise  it  becomes  gray 
when  mixed  with  hot  glue  water,  or  in 
varnishing. 

b.  Mix  thoroughly  fine  chalk  4  parts, 
calcined  magnesia  2,  with  a  few  drops 
of  solution  of  indigo. 

c.  The  solution  of  indigo  is  prepared 
.by  mixing  £  part  of  indigo  finely  pul- 
verized  with   1   part  of  concentrated 
fuming  sulphuric  acid. 

d.  A  cheaper  white  is  prepared  by 
using  Berlin  blue  in  place  of  indigo  so- 
lution. 

e.  Chrome-yellow.     Take  any  desired 
quantity  of  d  and  a  few  drops  of  ex- 


PAINTS  AND  PIGMENTS. 


271 


tract  of  saffron,  and  add  concentrated 
aqueous  decoction  of  Avignon  berries 
until  the  desired  shade  is  obtained. 

The  decoction  of  Avignon  berries  is 
obtained  by  pouring  hot  water  over 
the  berries  and  adding  some  alum  or 
common  salt. 

/.  Yellowish-green.  Take  equal  quan- 
tities of  Dutch  pink  and  white  given 
under  b. 

g.  Golden-yellow.  Take  any  desired 
quantity  of  white  given  under  d,  and 
compound  it  with  aqueous  extract  of 
saffron  until  the  desired  shade  is  ob- 
tained. 

h.  Yellowish-red.  Mix  1  part  of  red 
chalk  and  4  of  Dutch  pink  with  some 
liquid  glue. 

i.  Brownish-red.  Mix  equal  parts 
of  red  chalk  and  round  lake  with  some 
hot  glue  water. 

k.  Black-brown.  Mix  6  parts  of  red 
chalk  with  1  of  calcined  lampblack. 

I.  Vermilion.  Take  any  desired 
quantity  of  carmine  and  mix  it  with  a 
few  drops  of  concentrated  extract  of 
saffron  and  some  hot  glue  water. 

m.  Rose-red.  Mix  1  part  of  round 
lake  and  2  of  white  given  under  d. 

n.  Flesh-color.  Mix  4  parts  of  cal- 
cined magnesia  with  1  of  extract  of 
rhubarb,  prepared  by  boiling  £  part  of 
rhubarb  in  3  of  hot  water. 

o.  Violet.  Mix  4  parts  of  round  lake 
and  1  of  indigo  with  some  hot  glue 
water. 

p.  Violet-red.  Mix  8  parts  of  round 
lake  and  1  of  indigo. 

q.  Blue.  Use  indigo  and  Berlin 
blue  mixed  with  white  given  under  d. 

r.  Gray.  Take  12  parts  of  white 
given  under  d,  \  of  indigo,  and  J  of 
calcined  lampblack. 

s.  Imperial  Green.  Take  6  parts  of 
decoction  of  Avignon  berries,  £  of  in- 
digo, and  1  of  white  given  under  d. 

t.  Light  Green.  Mix  1  part  of  so- 
lution of  saffron  with  3  of  white  given 
under  d. 

u.  Dark  Green.  Mix  6  parts  of 
Dutch  pink  and  i  of  indigo. 

All  the  above  colors  are  calculated 
as  water  colors,  and,  when  dry,  are 
coated  with  a -fright  mastic  varnish. 

Colors  which,*  on  account  of  the. 
Poisonous  Qualities,  should  not  be  used 
for  Painting  Toys  or  in  Coloring  Ar- 
ticles of  ffood.  Blue :  Mountain  blue, 


mineral  mountain  blue,  imperial  blue, 
protoxide  of  cobalt,  Berlin  blue  con- 
taining zinc  or  copper,  Bremen  blue, 
ash-blue  (zaffer),  silver-blue,  Vienna, 
blue. 

Brown:  Terra  di  sienna,  and  the 
colors  mentioned  under  red  mixed  with 
black. 

Green:  Verdigris;  Brunswick  green  ; 
mountain  green;  Swedish  green; 
Scheele's  green  ;  Vienna,  Schweinfurth, 
Paris,  and  Berlin  green  ;  green  bronze; 
imperial  green;  English  and  Cassel 
green  ;  chrome-green,  cobalt  green,  min- 
eral green,  Naples^  green,  Neuwied 
green  ;  and  every  mixture  of  the  colors 
mentioned  under  blue  and  yellow. 

Metallic  Colors  :  Metallic  gold,  me- 
tallic silver,  Dutch  gold,  silver  leaf, 
gold  bronze,  silver  bronze,  copper  bronze, 
and  red  antimony. 

Orange :  Mixtures  of  the  colors  given 
under  red  and  yellow. 

Bed:  Cinnabar,  minium,  protoxide 
of  copper,  chrome-red,  English  red; 
mineral  red. 

Violet:  Mixtures  of  the  above  blue 
and  red  colors. 

White  :  White  lead,  Kremnitz  white, 
flake-white,  heavy  spar,  zinc  white. 

Yellow  :  Orpiment,  imperial  yellow, 
Cassel  yellow,  Naples  yellow,  massicot, 
English  yellow,  mineral  yellow,  chrome- 
yellow,  gamboge,  yellow  bronze,  Paris 
yellow. 

Artists'  Colors  and  for  Restoring 
Pictures.  The  following  13  colors  are 
the  most  important  for  artists:  Vene- 
tian or  Kremnitz  white ;  light  ochre, 
dark  ochre,  burnt  light  ochre,  burnt 
dark  ochre,  sienna,  burnt  sienna,  umber, 
burnt  umber,  Cologne  earth ;  ivory 
black,  fine  Parisian  blue,  red  cinna- 
bar. These  pigments  suffice  for  almost 
all  modern  painting,  but  some  of  the 
old  masters  used  special  colors,  and  to 
imitate  them  closely  the  following  pig- 
ments will  have  to  be  used:  Naples 
yellow,  Florentine  or  Vienna  lake, 
minium,  ultramarine,  green  Verona 
earth,  cobalt  blue,  brown  Munich  lake. 

Kremnitz  or  Venetian  White  is  a 
chemical  compound  prepared  from  lead 
and  vinegar,  requires  no  oil  varnish, 
and  dries  easily  in  poppy  or  nut  oil. 

Light  Ochre,  a  native  pigment,  re- 
quires oil  varnish  for  drying,  as  also 
Dark  Ochre. 


272 


TECHNO-CHEMIOAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Light  Burnt  Ochre  has  lost  its  pecul- 
iar fatty  constituents  by  calcining,  and 
requires  only  to  be  ground  in  poppy- 
seed  or  nut  oil. 

Dark  Burnt  Ochre  requires  some  oil 
varnish  for  drying. 

Sienna  also  requires  an  addition  of 
oil  varnish. 

Burnt  Sienna  requires  only  to  be 
ground  in  poppy-seed  or  nut  oil. 

Umber  is  to  be  ground  in  poppy -seed 
oil,  as  also  Burnt  Umber. 

Cologne  Earth  is  ground  in  oil  var- 
nish, it  being  very  difficult  to  dry.  By 
calcining  this  earth  it  becomes  darker 
and  loses  its  fatty  constituents. 

Ivory  Black  dries  very  easily  in  nut 
or  poppy-seed  oil. 

Parisian  Blue  is  ground  in  poppy- 
seed  or  nut  oil. 

Cinnabar  requires  some  oil  varnish, 
as  it  does  not  dry  well  in  poppy-seed 
oil  alone. 

Naples  Yellow  does  not  dry  without 
oil  varnish. 

Fine  Vienna  Lake  is  ground  in  oil 
varnish,  as  also  Florentine  lake. 

Mini  ant  is  ground  in  poppy-seed  oil. 

Ultramarine  is  ground  in  oil  var- 
nish. 

Verona  Earth  is  ground  in  oil  var- 
nish, as  also  cobalt  blue  and  brown 
Jfunich  lake. 

WATER  COLORS  :  Deep  Black.  I.  Boil 
2i  ounces  of  calcined  lampblack  in  1 
pint  of  water  ;  take  the  liquid  from  the 
fire,  skim  it  and  add  ^  ounce  of  finely 
pulverized  indigo.  Let  the  mixture 
boil  until  the  greater  part  of  the  water 
is  evaporated,  stirring  constantly,  and 
finally  mix  it  with  £  ounce  of  gum- 
Arabic,  |  drachm  of  glue,  and  £ 
drachm  of  extract  of  cichory.  Boil  the 
whole  to  a  thick  paste  and  shape  this 
into  cakes  in  moulds  oiled  with  nut  oil 
or  oil  of  almonds. 

II.  Dissolve  horn  shavings  in  caustic 
potash  lye  to  saturation,  evaporate  the 
dark-brown  fluid  and  boil  it  in  an  iron 
boiler  to  a  pasty  mass.  Now  dissolve 
it  in  double  its*  weight  of  water,  and 
compound  it  with  solution  of  alum. 
A  black  precipitate  is  formed,  which 
is  washed,  dried,  and  ground  with  gum 
water. 

Blue.  Boil  up,  several  times,  33  parts 
of  Berlin  blue,  ground  fine  in  rain- 
water, to  which  a  few  drops  of  hydro- 


chloric acid  have  been  added.  When 
the  color  has  settled,  pour  oft'  the  super- 
natant fluid,  and  mix  the  sediment  with 
16.5  parts  of  gum-Arabic  and  8,2  of 
glue  with  a  little  water,  and  let  the 
whole  evaporate  at  a  moderate  heat  to 
a  plastic  paste,  which  is  moulded  into 
cakes. 

Indigo  Blue.  Add  some  white  lead 
to  indigo,  grind  both  very  fine,  and 
then  proceed  in  the  same  manner  as 
given  for  blue, 

Green.  Grind  8  ounces  of  verdigris 
in  milk,  and  let  it  digest  24  hours  in 
strong  wine  vinegar,  together  with  4 
ounces  of  pulverized  tartar,  and  then 
boil  the  compound  down  to  one-half 
its  volume.  After  standing  for  L'4 
hours,  pour  the  fluid  into  a  bottle. 
This  is  used  for  mixing,  any  desired 
tints  being  produced  by  combining  it 
with  indigo,  sap-green,  and  saffron. 

Red.  Grind  either  Vienna  lake,  car- 
mine, cinnabar,  or  minium,  in  some 
gum-Arabic  and  water,  and  dry  the 
color. 

Violet  Blue.  Crush  ripe  bilberries 
and  press  the  juice  into  a  new  pot,  let 
it  boil,  add  a  small  wineglassful  of 
vinegar  and  f  ounce  of  alum,  strain  the 
color  and  evaporate  it  to  the  proper 
consistency  in  a  porcelain  dish. 

Yellow.  Boil  thoroughly  a  hand- 
ful of  yellow  buckthorn  berries  in  1 
pint  of  water,  add  some  alum  and  8 
grains  of  rock  salt.  Evaporate  the 
whole  to  £  of  its  volume,  then  strain 
through  a  cloth,  compound  the  filtrate 
with  some  gum-Arabic,  and  let  it  dry 
in  moulds. 

White.  Grind  Kremnitz  white  to  a 
fine  paste  in  a  strong  solution  of  gum- 
Arabic,  then  grind  it  once  more  in 
mucilage,  and  put  the  paste  in  moulds 
to  dry. 

8<ip  Red.  Boil  Brazil  wood  4  times 
with  soft  water,  collecting  each  decoc- 
tion in  a  wooden  tub,  and  let  them  stand 
in  it  for  4  days.  Then  draw  off  the 
supernatant  fluid,  put  this  also  in  a  tub, 
and  add  tin-solution  free  from  iron  until 
all  the  coloring  matter  is  precipitated. 
Collect  the  precipitate  upon  a  cloth 
and,  without  washing,  let  it  drain  off  to 
a  stiff  paste.  Put  3  pounds  of  this 
paste  in  a  porcelain  dish  and,  with  con- 
stant stirring,  add  4V  fluid  ounces  of 
caustic  ammonia  until  the  mass  is  Uis- 


PAPER  AND  PAPER  MATERIALS. 


273 


solved.  Compound  the  intensely  dark- 
red  tiuid  with  H  pounds  of  gum-  Arabic 
and  8J  ounces  of  white  sugar,  and  suffi- 
cient wheat  flour  to  give  it  the  proper 
consistency. 

Painting  with  Sympathetic  Colors  dif- 
fers from  other  painting  only  as  regards 
the  colors  used,  which  are  simply  me- 
tallic solutions  possessing  the  property 
to  appear  only  when  the  picture  is  sub- 
jected to  a  moderate  heat,  and  disap- 
pearing again  on  cooling. 

It  is  best  to  choose  for  this  kind  of 
painting  a  winter  landscape,  executed 
in  water  colors.  Buildings,  if  such  are 
represented  in  the  landscape,  are  col- 
ored with  ordinary  water  colors  with 
the  exception  of  the  roofs,  which  are 


painted  with  a  sympathetic  color  mixed 
from  purple-red^  yellow,  and  some  blue. 
All  the  rest  of  the  scenery  is  painted 
with  svmpathetic  colors.  The  sky  is 
colored  blue;  mountains,  meadows, 
leaves,  etc.,  with  the  desired  tints  of 
green,  etc.  To  liven  up  the  picture  a 
few  flowers  may  be  painted  in  the  fore- 
ground. The  painting  as  mentioned 
must  be  executed  in  a  warm  room.  On 
carrying  the  colored  picture  into  a  cold 
room  the  metallic  colors  disappear 
gradually;  the  sky  loses  its  summer 
blue,  the  cold  wintery  sky  again  tak- 
ing its  place,  the  mountains,  meadows, 
trees,  etc.,  seem  to  be  covered  with 
snow,  and  so  on.  On  exposing  the 
picture  again  to  a  moderate  heat  the 
scene  is  changed  in  a  moment  to  a 
beautiful  summer  landscape. 

Preparation  of  the  Colors  used. 
Purple  Red.  Dissolve  1  part  of  co- 
baltic  oxide  in  3  of  nitric  acid.  It  is 
best,  in  order  to  promote  the  reaction 
of  the  acid,  to  do  this  in  a  matrass  ex- 
posed to  heat.  When  the  solution  is 
complete,  add  basic  carbonate  of  potas- 
sium as  long  as  a  dirty-gray  precipitate 
is  formed,  and  cease  immediately  on  the 
precipitate  assuming  a  purple-red  color. 
Then  dilute  the  solution  with  6  parts  of 
water,  filter  it,  and  add  some  gum. 

Rose  Red.  Dissolve  1  partof'cobaltic 
oxide  in  3  of  nitric  acid,  and  when  the 
solution  is  complete  evaporate  to  dry- 
ness  to  expel  the  acid  ;  then  acid  1  part 
of  nitrate  of  potassium  and  dilute  the 
•whole  with  8  parts  of  water.  The  re- 
sulting rose-red  color  is  filtered  and 
mixed  with  some  gum. 
18 


Yellow.  Dissolve  brown  cupric  oxide 
in  hydrochloric  acid,  assisting  the  ac- 
tion of  the  acid  with  heat.  The  solu- 
tion is  olive-green,  and  by  evaporation 
furnishes  grass-green  crystals.  Dis- 
solve 1  part  of  these  crystals  in  8  of 
water,  and  add  a  little  gum. 

Green.  Pulverize  1  part  of  cobalt, 
place  the  powder  in  a  matrass  and  add 
4  parts  of  aqua  regia.  Digest  the  mixt- 
ure at  a  moderate  heat ;  then  add  1 
part  of  common  salt  and  dilute  with  16 
parts  of  water.  Filter  the  fluid,  and 
when  it  is  to  be  used  mix  it  with  a 
little  gum. 

Blue.  Pulverize  1  part  of  cobalt, 
and  heat  in  a  matrass  with  2  of  nitric 
acid.  When  the  cobalt  is  dissolved 
pour  the  solution  into  a  vessel  and 
gradually  add  solution  of  potash  until 
precipitation  ceases.  Let  the  mixture 
stand  quietly  for  some  time,  then  pour 
off  the  clear  fluid  and  wash  the  residue 
entirely  free  from  acid  with  water.  Let 
the  precipitate  drain  off,  and  then  dis- 
solve it  at  a  moderate  heat  in  acetic  acid, 
adding  the  latter  in  small  portions  until 
a  saturated  fluid  is  obtained.  This  solu- 
tion, mixed  with  a  little  gum,  is  used 
as  a  blue  color. 

Painter's  Cream.  Painters,  who  have 
long  intervals  between  their  periods  of 
labor,  are  accustomed  to  cover  the  parts 
they  have  painted  with  a  preparation 
which  preserves  the  freshness  of  the 
colors,  and  which  they  can  remove  on 
resuming  work.  This  preparation  is 
as  follows  :  Clear  nut  oil  1  gill,  pulver- 
ized mastic  in  tears  i  ounce,  and  pulver- 
ized acetate  of  lead  i  ounce.  Dissolve 
the  mastic  in  oil  over  a  gentle  fire,  and 
pour  the  mixture  into  a  marble  mortar 
over  the  pulverized  acetate  of  lead ; 
stir  it  with  a  wooden  pestle,  and  add 
water  in  small  quantities  until  the  com- 
pound assumes  the  appearance  and  con- 
sistency of  cream,  and  refuses  to  admit 
more  water. 


PAPER  AND  PAPER  MATERIALS,  MAN- 
UFACTURE, STAINING,  ETC.  GLASS, 
SAND,  AND  EMERY  PAPER. 

Preparation  of  the  different  kinds 
of  Straw  used  in  the  Manufacture  of 
Paper.  The  straw  must  be  cleansed 
from  all  weeds;  it  is  then  cut  up  in 


274 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


pieces  from  4  to  J  inch  long,  and  freed 
from  the  hard  parts,  especially  the  knots. 
It  is  then  softened  by  boiling  in  water 
and  converted  by  a  machine  into  half- 
stuff,  which  is  boiled  in  lye  prepared 
from  potash  and  lime,  and  then  worked 
into  pulp  and  finished  paper. 

The  most  tender  straw  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  paper  is  that  of  oats, 
next  that  of  barley,  wheat,  and  finally 
rye.  Maize  straw  is  prepared  from  the 
leaves  and  is  even  more  tender  than  oats 
straw.  The  time  for  boiling  depends 
on  the  hardness  of  the  material,  as  also 
the  strength  of  the  lye,  and  the  pre- 
liminary labor  which  may  have  been 
bestowed  on  the  material. 

Corn  Leaves  and  Stalks  are  placed  in 
lye  containing,  for  100  pounds  of  mate- 
rial, 40  pounds  of  lime  and  1  pound  of 
potash ;  the  straw  remains  in  the  lye 
for  3  hours. 

Oats  Straw.  For  100  pounds  of 
straw  a  lye  is  required  containing  50 
pounds  of  lime  and  2  pounds  of  potash. 
Time :  3  hours. 

Barley  Straw  is  first  boiled  for  3 
hours  in  water  and  then  brought  into 
a  lye  containing,  for  every  100  pounds 
of  straw,  50  pounds  of  lime  and  2 
pounds  of  potash.  It  is  then  brought 
into  a  second  lye  consisting  of  30  to  40 
pounds  of  lime  and  1  pound  of  potash. 
Time  in  each  lye  3  hours. 

Wheat  Straw  is  first  boiled  for  3 
hours  in  water  and  then  placed  con- 
secutively in  3  lyes,  remaining  in  each 
for  3  hours.  The  first  lye  consists  of  50 
pounds  of  lime  and  2  pounds  of  potash, 
and  the  last  two  of  30  pounds  of  lime 
and  1  pound  of  potash. 

Rye  Straw,  being  very  hard,  must 
first  be  boiled  in  water  for  3  hours,  and 
then  successively  for  the  same  time  in 
four  different  lyes  of  the  same  strength 
as  those  for  wheat  straw. 

Process  of  Gaining  Fibrous  Sub- 
stance from  different  Plants.  The 
plants  are  cleaned  and  cut  in  small 
pieces  and  impregnated  with  caustic 
soda-lye  of  1°  Beaume,  then  subjected 
to  hydrostatic  pressure.  The  lye  dis- 
solves the  silica,  coloring  matter,  pec- 
tine,  etc.,  contained  in  the  raw  mate- 
rial, and,  in  consequence  of  the  press- 
ure, penetrates  energetically  into  the 
pores  of  the  fibres,  swelling  and  burst- 
ing the  latter.  The  effect  is  still  further 


increased  by  abating,  after  the  opera  lion 
is  finished,  the  pressure  in  the  boiler 
while  the  lye  is  drawn  off.  The  mate- 
rial is  then  worked  into  half-stuff  or 
converted  into  a  fibre  which  can  be 
spun. 

Transformation  of  Woolly  Fibre.  By 
submitting  substances  containing  wool 
to  a  current  of  steam  of  300°  F.  with 
a  pressure  of  5  atmospheres  the  woolly 
fibre  is  so  changed  that  it  melts,  and  in 
this  state  collects  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  boiler,  while  cotton,  linen,  and  all 
other  vegetable  fibres  remain  unaltered. 
The  latter  are  now  suitable  for  the 
manufacture  of  paper,  while  the  soluble 
matter,  called  "  ozotine "  by  the  in- 
ventor of  the  process,  furnishes  a  very 
valuable  substance  rich  in  oxygen, 
which  will  without  doubt  be  useful  for 
many  technical  purposes. 

Paper  for  Documents,  Chech,  etc.  To 
make  an  alteration  in  the  writing  or 
printing  by  the  use  of  acid,  chloride  of 
lime,  or  alkali  easily  perceptible  the 
following  ingredients  are  added  to  the 
pulp :  0.75  per  cent,  of  iodide  of  potas- 
sium, 1  per  cent,  of  starch,  2  per  cent, 
of  sulphate  or  carbonate  of  manganese, 
and  2  per  cent,  of  sulphate  or  carbonate 
of  lead.  The  compound  can  be  applied 
to  the  finished  paper  with  a  brush. 

Improved  Cigarette  Paper.  Tobacco 
leaves  are  ground  to  an  impalpable 
powder  which  is  sifted  in  a  box  upon  a 
moistened  sheet  of  cigarette  paper.  The 
sheet  thus  prepared  is  covered  with 
another  sheet,  and  brought  under  a 
press.  Other  sheets  treated  in  the  same 
manner  are  placed  upon  these  and  the 
whole  finally  subjected  to  strong  press- 
ure, whereby  the  tobacco-powder  is 
intimately  united  with  the  moist  paper. 
After  remaining  in  the  press  for  12  to 
24  hours  the  paper  is  removed  and  is 
ready  for  use.  By  a  suitable  mixture 
the  color,  flavor,  and  smell  of  the 
various  kinds  of  tobacco  can  be  success- 
fully imitated.  Paper  thus  prepared 
burns  uniformly,  never  on  one  side 
only,  and  does  not  char. 

Safety  Paper.  To  prevent  erasures 
and  alterations  it  has  for  some  time 
been  customary  in  France  to  color 
paper  pulp  with  green  ultramarine, 
and  to  execute  the  writing  with  diluted 
hydrochloric  acid  or  solution  of  alum, 
producing  white  characters  upon  the 


PAPER  AND  PAPER  MATERIALS. 


275 


green  ground.  Some  English  bankers 
use  paper  colored  with  litmus,  upon 
which  are  printed  ornamental  lines 
with  oxalic  acid.  These  lines  of  course 
are  red,  but  as  soon  as  an  attempt  is 
made  to  remove  the  ink  with  acid  the 
entire  ground  becomes  red.  If  it  is 
sought  to  revivify  the  blue  by  means  of 
alkalies,  the  ornamental  lines  also  as- 
sume a  blue  color. 

Cork  Paper,  patented  in  America  by 
H.  Felt  &  Co.,  is  prepared  by  coating 
one  side  of  a  thick,  soft,  and  flexible 


covering 

cork  lightly  rolled  on.    The  material 
is  used  for  packing  glass,  bottles,  etc. 

Wrapping  Paper  for  Silver  Ware. 
The  appearance  of  silver  ware  is  fre- 
quently injured  by  being  exposed  to  air 
containing  sulphuretted  hydrogen  or 
sulphurous  and  other  acids.  The  small 
quantity  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  con- 
tained in  illuminating  gas  and  which 
in  burning  yields  sulphurous  acid  is  fre- 
quently sufficient  to  spoil  the  appear- 
ance of  all  the  articles  in  a  store.  To 
prevent  this  a  prepared  paper  is  rec- 
ommended. Prepare  a  solution  of  6 
parts  of  caustic  soda  in  water  of  20° 
Beaume,  then  add  4  of  zinc  oxide  and 
let  the  mixture  boil  for  2  hours,  if  pos- 
sible under  a  pressure  of  5  atmospheres. 
Dilute  the  solution,  when  clear,  to  10° 
Beaume,  and  it  is  ready  for  impreg- 
nating the  paper. 

Preparation  of  Parchment  Paper. 
Dilute  strong  sulphuric  acid  with  i  its 
volume  of  water,  and  allow  it  to  cool  to 
about  65°  F.  Then  immerse  unsized 
paper  in  the  cold  acid  for  10  to  50 
seconds  according  to  its  thickness. 
When  the  acid  has  acted  a  sufficient 
length  of  time,  the  paper  is  first  well 
washed  in  cold  running  water,  then 
dipped  in  dilute  ammonia,  again 
washed  in  water,  and  finally  dried. 
When  it  is  left  to  itself  to  dry  it  be- 
comes shrivelled  and  has  a  bad  appear- 
ance. To  guard  against  this  the  fol- 
lowing process  is  adopted  :  An  endless 
strip  of  paper  is  passed  by  machinery 
first  through  a  vat  of  the  acid  and  then 
through  water,  ammonia,  and  water 
again;  next  a  cloth-covered  roller  de- 
prives it  of  a  portion  of  the  water,  and 
anally  it  is  pressed  and  smoothed  out 


by  means  of  polished  heated  cylinders. 
When  properly  manufactured,  parch- 
ment paper  has  the  same  color  and 
translucency  as  animal  parchment.  As 
compared  with  ordinary  parchment 
this  paper  possesses  the  advantage  that 
it  is  very  little  liable  to  be  attacked  by 
insects.  And  again,  the  characters  in- 
scribed on  it  cannot  be  effaced  without 
difficulty,  and  when  effaced  cannot  be 
replaced  by  others,  a  perfect  guarantee 
against  all  kinds  of  falsification.  By 
reason  of  its  firmness  and  durability  it 
is  well  suited  for  plans  and  drawings, 
especially  such  as  are  much  exposed  to 
moisture.  Further  it  can  be  used  for 
covering  books ;  or  books,  maps,  etc., 
for  use  in  schools,  could  be  printed  on 
it  and  would  be  very  durable.  In 
place  of  animal  membrane  it  is  well 
suited  for  covering  jars  of  fruit,  ex- 
tracts, etc.,  as  also  for  connecting  the 
parts  of  distilling  and  other  apparatus. 
It  furnishes  an  excellent  substitute  for 
animal  bladder  for  the  casings  of  saus- 
ages. In  surgery  it  is  employed  instead 
of  linen,  oiled  cloth,  and  gutta  percha, 
for  dressing  wounds. 

Water-proof  Paper  transparent  and 
impervious  to  grease  is  obtained  by 
soaking  good  paper  in  an  aqueous  solu- 
tion of  shel  lac  and  borax.  It  resembles 
parchment  paper  in  some  respects.  If 
the  aqueous  solution  be  colored  with 
aniline  colors  very  handsome  paper,  of 
use  for  artificial  flowers,  is  prepared. 

Peterson's  Water-proof  Paper.  Dis- 
solve 3  J  ounces  of  tallow  soap  in  water, 
add  sufficient  solution  of  alum  that  the 
soap  is  entirely  decomposed,  and  mix 
this  fluid  with  a  gallon  of  paper-pulp. 
The  paper  is  in  all  other  respects  pre- 
pared in  the  ordinary  manner,  and  need 
not  to  be  sized.  It  is  especially  suitable 
for  cartridge-shells. 

Carbolic  Acid  Paper  is  prepared  with 
3 £  ounces  of  carbolic  acid  to  the  square 
foot.  It  is  used  for  disinfecting  pur- 
poses, and  also  for  packing  fresh  meat. 
The  process  of  preparing  it  is  as  fol- 
lows :  Melt  at  a  moderate  heat  5  parts 
of  stearine,  6  of  paraffine,  and  2  of  car- 
bolic acid.  Apply  the  melted  mixture 
to  the  paper  with  a  brush. 

A  still  more  effective  paper,  and  which 
can  be  used  for  a  great  many  purposes,  is 
obtained  by  the  use  of  a  smaller  quan- 
tity of  nitric  acid  in  place  of  carbolio 


276 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


acid,  the  rest  of  the  process  being  the 
same. 

Two  New  Varieties  of  Preserving  Pa- 
per have  been  recently  brought  into 
the  market.  The  one  is  obtained  by 
immersing  soft  paper  in  a  bath  of  sali- 
cylic acid,  and  then  drying  in  the  air. 
The  bath  is  prepared  by  diluting  a 
strong  solution  of  the  acid  in  alcohol 
with  a  large  volume  of  water.  This 
paper  may  then  be  used  for  wrapping 
up  apples,  etc. 

The  other  paper  used  as  protection 
against  moths  and  mildew  is  best  pre- 
pared from  strong  manilla  paper  by 
immersing  it  in  the  following  bath: 
Seventy  parts  of  tar  oil,  5  of  crude  car- 
bolic acid  containing  about  i  phenole, 
20  of  coal-tar  at  a  temperature  of  160° 
F.,  and  5  of  refined  petroleum.  The 
paper  is  then  squeezed  out,  and  dried 
by  passing  it  over  hot  rollers. 

Plastic  Pasteboard  for  Surgical  Band  - 
ages  is  prepared  by  softening  the  raw 
pasteboard  by  beating,  or,  if  very  stiff, 
lixiviating  with  alkalies,  then  drying 
thoroughly,  and  saturating  with  a  solu- 
tion of  shellac,  rosin,  and  turpen- 
tine, or  pine  rosin,  elemi,  etc.,  and,  if 
necessary,  coating  with  gutta-percha  or 
varnish. 

Preparation  of  Tracing  Paper,  Trac- 
ing Linen,  and  Transparent  Packing 
Paper.  The  paper  is  first  treated  with 
boiled  linseed  oil,  and  the  excess  of 
oily  particles  removed  with  benzine. 
The  paper  is  then  washed  in  a  chlorine 
bath.  When  dry  it  is  again  washed 
with  oxygenated  water. 

Linen  is  first  provided  with  a  coating 
of  starch  and  then  with  an  application 
of  linseed  oil  and  benzine.  It  is  finished 
by  being  smoothed  between  polished 
rollers. 

Photo-lithographic  Transfer  Paper, 
and  Transfer-color  belonging  to  it.  Pa- 
per is  treated  with  a  solution  of  100 
parts  of  gelatine  and  1  of  chrome-alum 
in  2400  of  water,  and,  after  drying,  with 
white  of  egg.  It  is  sensitized  in  a  bath 
consisting  of  1  part  of  chrome-alum,  14 
of  water,  and  4  of  alcohol.  The  ad- 
dition of  the  latter  prevents  the  solution 
of  the  white  of  egg.  On  the  places  not 
exposed  to  the  light  the  white  of  egg 
becomes  detached,  together  with  the 
color  with  which  the  exposed  paper 
has  been  coated.  The  transfer  color 


consists  of  20  parts  of  printing  ink,  50 

of  wax,  40  of  tallow,  35  of  rosin,  210  of 

oil  of  turpentine,  and  30  of  Berlin  blue. 

Writing,  Copying,  and  Drawing  Pa- 

n  which  can  be  washed.  The  paper 
lade  transparent  by  immersion  in 
benzine  and  then,  before  the  benzine 
volatilizes,  plunged  into  a  solution  of 
siccative  prepared  in  the  following 
manner :  One  pound  each  of  lead  shav- 
ings and  oxide  of  zinc  are  boiled  for 
8  hours,  together  with  8|  ounces  of 
hardened  Venetian  turpentine  in  2£ 
gallons  of  purified  linseed-oil  varnish, 
and  then  allowed  to  stand  for  a  few 
days  to  cool  and  settle.  The  clear  layer 
is  then  poured  off  and  to  this  are  added 
5  pounds  of  white  West  Indian  copal 
and  8|  to  10  ounces  of  sandarac  dis- 
solved in  spirit  of  wine  or  ether.  This 
paper  can  be  written  or  drawn  upon 
with  pen  and  ink  or  water  colors ;  or,  by 
using  good  copying  ink,  good  copies 
can  be  taken  from  it  without  a  press. 

Tracing  Paper.  By  the  following 
very  simple  process  ordinary  drawing 
paper  can  be  rendered  transparent,  for 
the  purpose  of  making  tracings,  and  its 
transparency  removed  so  as  to  restore 
its  former  appearance  when  the  draw- 
ing is  completed.  Dissolve  any  quan- 
tity of  castor  oil  in  one,  two,  or  three  vol- 
umes of  absolute  alcohol,  according  to 
the  thickness  of  the  paper,  and  apply  it 
by  means  of  a  sponge.  The  alcohol 
evaporates  in  a  few  minutes,  and  the 
tracing  paper  is  dry  and  ready  for  im- 
mediate use.  The  drawing  or  tracing 
can  be  made  either  with  lead-pencil  or 
India  ink,  and  the  oil  removed  from 
the  paper  by  immersing  it  in  absolute 
alcohol,  thus  restoring  its  original 
opacity.  The  alcohol  employed  in  re- 
moving the  oil  is,  of  course,  preserved 
for  diluting  the  oil  used  in  preparing 
the  next  sheet. 

Transfer  Paper.  Mix  lard  to  a  paste 
with  lampblack,  rub  this  upon  the 
paper,  remove  the  excess  with  a  rag, 
and  dry  the  paper.  A  copy  of  the  writ- 
ing can  be  transferred  on  a  clean  sheet 
of  paper  by  placing  it  underneath  the 
prepared  paper  and  writing  upon  the 
latter  with  a  lead-pencil  or  sharp 
point. 

Tar  Paper.  Boil  100  pounds  of  tar 
for  3  hours,  then  dissolve  in  it  a  quan- 
tity of  a  glue  prepared  from  rosin  and 


PAPER  AND  PAPER  MATERIALS. 


277 


soap,  pour  8  gallons  of  boiling  water 
upon  the  mixture,  stir  carefully,  and 
let  the  mixture  boil.  Then  stir  care- 
fully 100  pounds  of  potato  flour  into  60 
gallons  of  water  in  a  vat,  mix  the  dis- 
solved tar  with  15  gallons  of  boiling 
water,  and  add  this  to  the  potato  flour 
in  the  vat,  stirring  constantly.  Twenty- 
four  parts  of  this  homogeneous  fluid  are 
taken  to  20  parts  of  paper-pulp.  From 
the  pulp  the  tar-paper  is  manufactured, 
which  can  be  painted  black  and  var- 
nished to  make  it  water-proof.  The 
prepared  tar-solution  may  also  be  used 
to  impregnate  wood,  sail-cloth,  etc. 

To  Prepare  Leather  Waste  for  use  in 
the  Manufacture  of  Paper.  To  extract 
the  tannin  place  the  waste  for  a  few 
hours  in  a  solution  of  5  parts  of  lime,  5 
of  crystallized  soda,  and  1£  of  sal-am- 
moniac in  100  of  water ;  then  wash  first 
with  acidulated  and  next  with  pure 
water.  The  prepared  waste  is  worked 
into  paper  in  the  ordinary  manner, 
either  by  itself  or  mixed  with  rags. 

Iridescent  Paper.  Boil  4J-  ounces 
of  coarsely  powdered  gall-nuts,  2J 
ounces  of  sulphate  of  iron,  $  ounce  of 
sulphate  of  indigo,  and  12  grains  of 
gum-Arabic;  strain  through  a  cloth, 
brush  the  paper  with  the  liquor,  and 
expose  it  quickly  to  ammoniacal  va- 
pors. 

Colored  Paper  for  Tying  up  Bottles, 
etc.  The  dry  aniline  colors  of  all 
shades  are  used.  Dissolve  15  grains  of 
aniline  color  in  1  ounce  of  highly  recti- 
fied alcohol,  dilute  the  solution  with 
10  ounces  of  distilled  water,  and  add 
23  grains  of  tannin  dissolved  in  £  fluid 
ounce  of  alcohol.  The  object  of  the 
aiMition  of  tannin  is  to  fix  the  color 
permanently  upon  the  fibres  of  the 
paper,  as  without  it  the  color  on  drying 
could  be  easily  rubbed  off.  Now  take 
thin  white  writing-paper,  spread  it 
upon  a  marble  or  copper  plate,  and 
apply  the  fluid  by  means  of  a  sponge. 
Hang  the  paper  over  cord  to  dry,  and 
in  a  few  days  varnish  it  with  a  concen- 
trated solution  of  sodium  water-glass  to 
100  parts  of  which  have  been  added  10 
parts  of  glycerine. 

Pouget-Maisonneuve's  Electro-ch  emi- 
cal  Telegraph  Paper.  Sufficiently 
sized  paper  is  treated  with  a  solution 
of  5  parts  of  ferro-cyanide  of  potassium 
and  150  of  sal-ammoniac  in  100  of 


water.  Telegrams  transmitted  by  means 
of  this  paper  and  Morse's  apparatus 
have  given  very  satisfactory  results. 

Amianthus  Paper  consists  of  2  parts 
of  paper  pulp  and  1  of  amianthus.  It 
is  especially  distinguished  from  ordi- 
nary paper  by  its  color,  having  a  yellow- 
ish tint.  When  burned  in  a  flame  it 
|  leaves  a  white  residue,  which,  when 
not  violently  shaken,  retains  the  form 
of  the  paper,  and  upon  which  the  writ- 
ing, provided  ink  containing  sulphate 
of  iron  has  been  used,  can  be  traced 
and  deciphered  with  some  trouble  by 
the  yellow  marks  left  behind.  Experi- 
ments in  the  manufacture  of  amianthus 
paper  have  been  made  in  America, 
where  large  beds  of  amianthus  of  fine 
fibre  have  been  discovered  and  the 
price  of  the  material  is  low. 

To  Water-proof  Cylinders  of  Paste- 
board.  The  so-called  Chinese  lacquer 
is  best  adapted  for  this  purpose.  It 
consists  of  a  mixture  of  4  parts  of  slaked 
lime  and  3  of  fresh  blood,  to  which 
some  alum  has  been  previously  added. 
As  soon  as  the  mixture  is  complete  it 
is  applied  to  the  pasteboard  with  a 
large  soft  brush.  When  the  first  coat- 
ing is  dry  a  second  is  laid  on,  which 
suffices  to  make  the  pasteboard  im- 
permeable to  water. 

To  Produce  Enamelled  Writing  Sur- 
faces on  Pasteboard  and  Paper.      A 
mixture  of  bleached  shellac  and  borax 
dissolved  in  10  per  cent,  of  water  and 
glue  and  vine-black  rubbed  to  an  im- 
palpable powder  is  used   for  the  first 
coloring  material.     It  is  transferred  to 
|  the  paper  to  be  coated  by  means  of  a 
felt  roller,  and  distributed  with  a  brush. 
The  paper  is  then  dried  and  rolled  up. 
After  this  operation  a  second  color  con- 
j  sisting    of    vine-black,     pergamentine 
I  (water-glass  and  glycerine)  is  used,  the 
I  paper  receiving  three  coats  of  this.     It  is 
then  cut  into  suitable  sizes,  steamed  at 
a  temperature  of  248°  F.,  and  finally 
smoothed  by  calendering.     For  white 
tablets  Kremnitz  white  is  used  in  place 
of  vine-black ;  for  colored,  ultramarine, 
etc. 

Imitation  of  Mother-of- Pearl  on  Pa- 
per.   Stout  paper  with  a  glossy  coating 
is  allowed  to  float  upon  a  solution  of 
I  salts  of  silver,  lead,  or  bismuth.     As 
j  soon  as  the  paper  lies  smooth  upon  the 
|  surface    of   the  solution  it   is  slowly 


278 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


lifted  and  allowed  to  dry.  The  dry 
paper  is  then  placed  in  a  room  impreg- 
nated with  sulphide  of  hydrogen,  and 
remains  here  until  the  surface  has  as- 
sumed a  metallic  lustre.  Diluted  col- 
lodion is  now  poured  over  the  paper 
thus  prepared,  or  it  is  drawn  through 
a  bath  of  it,  when,  after  drying,  the 
beautiful  iridescent  colors  will  appear 
upon  the  paper.  The  most  varying 
effects  can  be  produced  by  sprinkling 
reducing  substances  or  salts  upon  the 
surface  of  the  paper  before  submitting 
it  to  the  action  of  the  sulphide  of  hy- 
drogen. 

This  process  is  not  only  adapted  for 
paper  but  can  also  be  employed  for 
finished  articles,  as  boxes,  bonbonnieres, 
eic. 

To  Make  Paper  Transparent.  Apply 


The  boiler  containing  the  glue  is  con- 
structed of  copper  or  iron,  and  sur- 
rounded with  a  steam-jacket.  The  small 
rollers  k  and  n  act  as  distributers,  both 
being  turned  by  friction  with  b.  As 
soon  as  the  paper  reaches  the  even  plane 
from  6  to  c  the  glue  upon  it  is  heated 
by  steam  emanating  from  the  apparatus 
rf,  and  a  fine  jet  of  the  material,  emery, 
glass,  sand,  etc.,  falls  from  e  upon  the 
surface  thus  heated.  The  powder  pene- 
trates deeply  into  the  soft,  sticky  mass, 
and  adheres  quickly.  The  excess  falls 
off  by  the  paper  turning  over  c,  and  is 
collected  in  a  box.  The  powder  in  e  is 
heated  by  a  steam-pipe.  The  fan  /  sets 
the  paper  in  motion,  whereby  all  the 
powder  not  adhering  tightly  is  shaken 
off.  A  jet  of  steam  striking  the  sur- 
face of  the  paper  through  g  helps  to 


Fig.  39a. 


a  thin  coating  of  a  solution  of  Canada 
balsam  in  turpentine  to  the  paper,  then 
give  it  a  good  coating  of  much  thicker 
varnish  on  both  sides.  Perform  the 
work  before  a  hot  fire,  to  keep  the 
paper  warm,  and  a  third  or  even  fourth 
coating  until  the  paper  becomes  evenly 
translucent.  Paper  prepared  in  this 
manner  comes  nearer  to  perfection 
than  any  other. 

Emery  Paper.  The  accompanying 
illustration  (Fig.  39a)  represents  Ed- 
wards' patented  apparatus  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  emery,  sand,  glass,  and 
similar  papers,  a  is  the  beam  on 
which  the  endless  paper  is  rolled.  In 
unrolling  it  passes  over  the  brush- 
roller  i,  which  takes  up  the  glue  from 
the  boiler  h  and  applies  it  to  the  paper. 


set  the  powder  more  securely  in  the 
glue. 

Water-proof  Emery  Paper.  The 
paper  is  coated  on  both  sides  with  pul- 
verized emery  which  is  made  to  adhere 
to  it  by  means  of  a  water-proof  cement, 
so  that  moisture  can  have  no  injurious 
effect  upon  the  paper.  This  flexible 
water-proof  cement  is  prepared  by  melt- 
ing 2  parts  of  hard,  African  copal,  pour- 
ing over  this,  while  yet  hot,  3  of  boiled 
linseed  oil  and  adding  1  part  of  oil-lac- 
quer, 1  of  Venetian  turpentine,  1  of 
Venetian  red,  £  of  Berlin  blue,  J  of 
litharge,  and  1  of  dissolved  caoutchouc. 
Mix  these  ingredients  intimately,  and 
should  the  compound  be  too  thick 
dilute  with  some  linseed-oil  varnish. 
Then  spread  it  uniformly  upon  paper, 


PAPER  AND  PAPER  MATERIALS. 


279 


or  a  suitable  cheap  fabric,  stretched  in 
a  frame,  and  sift  finely  pulverized 
emery,  or  glass,  quartz  sand,  etc.,  over 
it;  and,  when  dry,  remove  the  excess 
of  powder.  Usually  both  sides  of  the 
paj>er  are  covered,  one  side  with 
coarser  and  the  other  with  finer  pow- 
der. 

Stains  Used  in  Coloring  Paper  for 
Artificial  Flowers.  Sap-colors  are 
only  used  and  principally  those  con- 
taining much  coloring  matter.  The 
following  colors  are  calculated  for  one 
ream  of  paper. 

The  gum- Arabic  given  in  the  receipt 
is  dissolved  in  the  sap-liquor. 

Crimson.  Mix  1  gallon  of  liquor  of 
Brazil  wood  compounded  with  borax, 
2  ounces  of  wax-soap,  and  8|  ounces  of 
gum-Arabic. 

Dark  Blue.  I.  Mix  1  gallon  of  tinc- 
ture of  Berlin  blue  and  2  ounces  each  of 
wax-soap  and  gum  tragacanth. 

II.  Mix  |  gallons  of  tincture  of 
Berlin  blue  with  2  ounces  of  wax-soap 
and  4i  ounces  of  gum  tragacanth. 

Dark  Green.  I.  Take  4  gallon  of 
liquor  of  sap-green  (boiled  down  juice 
of  the  berries  of  Rhamus  catharticus), 
4$  ounces  of  indigo  rubbed  fine,  1 
ounce  of  wax-soap,  and  44  ounces  of 
gum-Arabic. 

II.  One-half  gallon  of  liquor  of  sap- 
green,  4i  ounces  of  distilled  verdigris, 
1  ounce  of  wax-soap,  and  44  ounces  of 
gum-Arabic. 

Dark  Red.  Compound  1  gallon  of 
liquor  of  Brazil  wood  with  2  ounces 
of  wax-soap  and  8i  ounces  of  gum- 
Arabic. 

Golden  Yellow.  Mix  64  pounds  of 
gamboge  with  2  ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Lemon  Color.  I.  Compound  1  gallon 
of  juice  of  Persian  berries  with  2  ounces 
of  wax-soap  and  8|  ounces  of  gum- 
Arabic. 

II.  Add  to  1  gallon  of  liquor  of  quer- 
citron compounded  with  solution  of 
tin  2  ounces  of  wax-soap  and  8f  ounces 
of  gum-Arabic. 

Pale.  Yellow.  Mix  1  gallon  of  liquor 
of  fustic,  2  ounces  of  wax-soap,  and  8| 
ounces  of  gum-Arabic. 

Rose  Color.  Mix  1  gallon  of  liquor 
of  cochineal  with  2  ounces  of  wax-soap 
and  8|  ounces  of  gum-Arabic. 

Scarlet.  I.  Mix  1  gallon  of  liquor 
of  Brazil  wood  compounded  with  alum, 


and  a  solution  of  copper  with  2  ounces 
of  wax-soap  and  8|  ounces  of  gum- 
Arabic. 

II.  Mix  1  gallon  of  liquor  of  cochi- 
neal compounded  with  citrate  of  tin 
with  2  ounces  of  wax-soap  and  3| 
ounces  of  gum-Arabic. 

Yellow-green.  I.  Compound  1  gal- 
lon of  liquor  of  sap-green  with  2  ounces 
each  of  distilled  verdigris  and  wax- 
soap  and  8J  ounces  of  gum-Arabic. 

II.  Take  1  gallon  of  liquor  of  sap- 
green,  2  ounces  each  of  dissolved  indigo 
and  wax -soap,  and  8|  ounces  of  gum- 
Arabic. 

Stain  for  Glazed  Papers.  On  ac- 
count of  the  cheapness  of  these  papers 
a  solution  of  glue  is  used  as  an  agglu- 
tinant.  The  following  proportions  are 
generally  used  for  one  ream  of  paper : 
One  pound  of  glue  and  li  gallons  of 
water. 

Black.  I.  Dissolve  1  pound  of  glue 
in  li  gallons  of  water;  triturate  with 
this  1  pound  of  lampblack  previously 
rubbed  up  in  rye  whiskey,  2|  pounds 
of  Frankford  black,  2  ounces  of  Paris 
blue,  1  ounce  of  wax -soap,  and  add  1£ 
pounds  of  liquor  of  logwood. 

II.  Take  4  gallon  of  liquor  of  log- 
wood compounded  with  sulphate  of 
iron,  1  ounce  of  wax-soap,  and  4i  ounces 
of  gum-Arabic. 

Blue  (Azure}.  Dissolve  1  pound  of 
glue  in  li  gallons  of  water,  and  com- 
pound the  solution  with  14  pounds  of 
Berlin  blue,  2|  pounds  of  pulverized 
chalk,  2i  ounces  of  light  mineral  blue, 
and  2  ounces  of  wax -soap. 

Blue  (Dark).  I.  Dissolve  1  pound 
of  glue  in  li  gallons  of  water,  and  mix 
with  it  4i  pounds  of  pulverized  chalk, 
4i  ounces  of  Paris  blue,  and  2  ounces 
of  wax-soap. 

II.  Mix  4  gallon  of  tincture  of  Berlin 
blue  and  1  ounce  of  wax-soap  with  2i 
ounces  of  dissolved  gum  tragacanth. 

Blue  (Pale).  I.  Mix  4  gallon  of  tinct- 
ure of  Berlin  blue  and  1  ounce  of  wax- 
soap  with  34  ounces  of  dissolved  gum 
tragacanth. 

II.  Dissolve  1  pound  of  glue  in  li 
gallons  of  water,  and  mix  with  it  4 
pounds  of  pulverized  chalk  and  2 
ounces  each  of  Parisian  blue  and  wax- 
soap. 

Brown  (Dark).  I.  Dissolve  1  pound 
of  glue  in  li  gallons  of  water,  and  mix 


280 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


with  it  1  pound  of  colcothar,  a  like 
quantity  of  English  pink,  li  pounds  of 
pulverized  chalk,  and  2  ounces  of  wax- 
soap. 

II.  Dissolve  1  ounce  of  wax-soap  and 
4i  ounces  of  gum- Arabic  in  i  gallon  of 
good  liquor  of  Brazil  wood  and  a  like 
quantity  of  tincture  of  gall-nuts. 

Cherry  Red.  Dissolve  1  pound  of 
glue  in  li  gallons  of  water,  and  mix 
with  it  8i  pounds  of  Turkish  minium 
previously  rubbed  up  with  i  gallon  of 
liquor  of  Brazil  wood  and  2  ounces  of 
wax-soap. 

Green  (Copper}.  Dissolve  1  pound 
of  glue  in  li  gallons  of  water,  and 
triturate  with  it  4  pounds  of  English 
green,  li  pounds  of  pulverized  chalk, 
and  4  ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Green  (Pale).  Dissolve  1  pound  of 
glue  in  li  gallons  of  water,  and  mix 
with  it  1  pound  of  Bremen  blue,  8i 
ounces  of  whiting,  1  ounce  of  light 
chrome-yellow,  and  2  ounces  of  wax- 
soap. 

Lemon  Color.  Dissolve  1  pound  of 
glue  in  li  gallons  of  water,  and  mix 
with  it  13  ounces  of  light  chrome-yel- 
low, 2  pounds  of  pulverized  chalk,  and 
2  ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Orange-yellow.  Dissolve  1  pound  of 
glue  in  li  gallons  of  water,  and  mix 
with  it  2  pounds  of  light  chrome-yellow, 
1  pound  of  Turkish  minium,  2  pounds 
of  white  lead,  and  2  ounces  of  wax- 
soap. 

Red  (Dark}.  Mix  J  gallons  of  liquor 
of  Brazil  wood  with  1  ounce  of  wax- 
soap  and  4i  ounces  of  gum- Arabic. 

Red  (Pale).  Dissolve  1  pound  of 
glue  in  1J  gallons  of  water,  and  mix 
with  it  8|  pounds  of  Turkish  minium 
previously  rubbed  up  with  2  ounces  of 
wax-soap. 

Rose  Color.  Dissolve  1  pound  of  glue 
in  li  gallons  of  liquor  of  Brazil  wood 
and  mix  with  it  50  pounds  of  rose  mad- 
der previously  rubbed  up  with  2  ounces 
of  wax-soap. 

Violet.  Mix4i  ounces  of  gum- Arabic 
and  1  ounce  of  wax-soap  with  i  gallon 
of  good  liquor  of  logwood.  After  the 
gum  has  dissolved  in  the  liquor  com- 
pound it  with  some  potash. 

Stains  for  Morocco  Papers.  Black. 
Dissolve  8J  ounces  of  good  parchment 
shavings  in  li  gallons  of  water  and  stir 
in  1  pouud  of  lampblack,  30  pounds  of 


Frankfort  black,  and  1|  ounces  of  fine 
Paris  blue. 

Blue  (Dark).  Dissolve  8|  ounces  of 
good  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons 
of  water,  and  mix  with  the  solution  8i 
pounds  of  white  lead  and  4i  ounces  of 
fine  Paris  blue. 

Blue  (Liyht).  Dissolve  8|  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  it  8J  pounds  of 
white  lead  and  2i  ounces  of  fine  Paris 
blue. 

Green  (Dark}.  Dissolve  13  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  2i  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  10  pounds  of 
Schweinfurth  green. 

Green  (Pale).  Dissolve  13  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  2i  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  8J  pounds  of 
Schweinfurth  greet)  and  1  pound  of 
fine  Paris  blue. 

Orange-yellow.  Dissolve  8|  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  li  pounds  of  light 
chrome-yellow,  8|  ounces  of  orange 
chrome-yellow,  and  1  pound  of  white 
lead. 

Pale  Yellow.  Dissolve  8|  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  2  pounds  of  light 
chrome-yellow  and  81  ounces  of  white 
lead. 

Red  (Dark).  Dissolve  8|  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  compound  this  with  7} 
pounds  of  fine  cinnabar  and  1  pound 
of  Turkish  minium. 

Red  (Pale}.  Dissolve  8f  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  it  with  8i  pounds  of 
Turkish  minium. 

Violet  (Dark).  Dissolve  8?  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  3J  pounds  of  white 
lead,  1  pound  of  pale  mineral  blue,  and 
8|  ounces  of  scarlet  lake. 

Violet  (Light).  Dissolve  8f  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  4i  pounds  of  white 
lead,  13  ounces  of  light  mineral  blue, 
and  8£  ounces  of  scarlet  lake. 

Stains  for  Satin  Papers.  Azure 
Blue.  Dissolve  13  ounces  of  parchment 
shavings  in  2i  gallons  of  water,  and 
mix  with  3  pounds  of  Bremen  blue,  If 
pounds  of  English  mineral  blue,  and  4i 
ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Blue  (Liyht).    Dissolve  8|  ounces  of 


PAPER  AND  PAPER  MATERIALS. 


281 


parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  1  pound  of  light 
mineral  blue  and  3i  ounces  of  wax- 
soap. 

Brown  (Light).  Dissolve  8f  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  13  ounces  of  light 
chrome-yellow,  6i  ounces  of  colcothar, 
2  ounces  of  Frankfort  black,  3  pounds 
of  pulverized  chalk,  and  3i  ounces  of 
wax-soap. 

Broion  (Reddish).  Dissolve  8f 
ounces  of  parchment  shavings  in  li 
gallons  of  water,  and  mix  with  1  pound 
of  yellow  ochre,  4i  ounces  of  light 
chrome-yellow,  1  pound  of  white  lead, 
1  ounce  of  red  ochre,  and  3i  ounces  of 
wax-soap. 

Gray  (Light).  Dissolve  8J  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  4i  pounds  of  pul- 
verized chalk,  8£  ounces  of  Frankfort 
black,  1  ounce  of  Paris  blue,  and  3k 
ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Gray  (Bluish).  Dissolve  8f  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  4J  pounds  of  pul- 
verized chalk,  1  pound  of  light  mineral 
blue,  4£  ounces  of  English  green,  If 
ounces  of  Frankfort  black,  and  3i 
ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Green  (Light).  Dissolve  8|  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  2}  pounds  of  Eng- 
lish green  a  like  quantity  of  pulver- 
ized chalk  and  3i  ounces  of  wax- 


Green  (Brownish).  Dissolve  8f  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  1  pound  of  Schwein- 
furth  green,  84  ounces  of  mineral  green, 
4i  ounces  each  of  burnt  umber  and 
English  pink,  1  pound  of  whiting,  and 
3i  ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Lemon  Color.  Dissolve  8|  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  li  pounds  of  light 
chrome-yellow,  1  pound  of  white  lead, 
and  3i  ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Orange-yellow.  Dissolve  8|  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  li  pounds  of  light 
chrome-yellow,  8|  ounces  of  orange 
chrome-yellow,  1  pound  of  white  lead, 
and  3i  ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Pale  Yellow.  Dissolve  81  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  4i  pounds  of  light 


chrome-yellow,  1  pound  of  pulverized 
chalk,  and  3i  ounces  of  wax -soap. 

Orange-yellow.  Dissolve  Sf  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  41  pounds  of  light 
chrome-yellow,  81  ounces  of  Turkish 
minium,  1  pound  of  white  lead,  and  3i 
ounces  of  wax-soap. 

Rose  Color.  Dissolve  8|  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  J  gallon  of  rose 
color  prepared  from  liquor  of  Brazil 
wood  and  chalk,  and  6i  pounds  of  wax- 
soap. 

Violet  (Light).  Dissolve  8J  ounces 
of  parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  li  pounds  of  light 
mineral  blue,  a  like  quantity  of  scarlet 
lake,  1  pound  of  white  lead,  and  3i 
ounces  of  wax-soap. 

White.  Dissolve  8J  ounces  of  parch- 
ment shavings  in  li  gallons  of  water, 
and  mix  ^ith  8J  pounds  of  fine  Krem- 
nitz  white,  4i  ounces  of  fine  Bremen 
blue,  and  3i  ounces  of  wax -soap. 

Silver  White.  Dissolve  8J  ounces  of 
parchment  shavings  in  li  gallons  of 
water,  and  mix  with  8|  pounds  of  Krem- 
nitz  white,  81  ounces  of  Frankfort 
black,  and  3i  ounces  of  wax-soap. 

How  to  Split  a  Sheet  of  Paper.  To 
split  paper  into  two  or  three  even  parts 
proceed  as  follows :  Paste  a  piece  of  cloth 
or  strong  paper  to  each  side  of  the  sheet 
to  be  split.  When  dry  quickly  pull 
the  two  pieces  asunder,  when  one  part 
of  the  sheet  will  be  found  to  have  ad- 
hered to  one  and  part  to  the  other. 
Soften  the  paste  in  water,  and  the 
pieces  can  be  easily  removed  from  the 
cloth.  The  process  can  be  utilized  in 
various  ways.  If  it  be  desired  to  paste  in 
a  scrap-book  a  newspaper  article  printed 
on  both  sides  of  the  pa  per  and  we  possess 
only  one  copy  it  is  very  convenient  to 
know  how  to  detach  the  one  side  from 
the  other.  The  paper  when  split,  as 
may  be  imagined,  is  more  transparent 
than  before  being  subjected  to  the 
operation,  and  the  printing-ink  is  some- 
what duller;  otherwise  the  two  pieces 
present  the  appearance  of  the  original 
if  again  brought  together. 

To  separate  the  paper  sheet  into  two 
films  as  above  described  will  require 
some  little  practice,  but  with  a  little 
patience  the  experimenter  will  soon 
acquire  the  necessary  dexterity. 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


PERFUMERY.  AROMATIC  VINEGARS, 
COSMETICS,  EXTRACTS,  HAIR  OILS, 
POMADES,  POWDERS,  WASHES, 
FUMIGATING  ARTICLES,  ETC. 

Extraction  of  Perfume  from  Flowers. 
Remove  the  unpleasant  odor  from 
methyl  chloride  by  treating  it  in  a 
gaseous  state  with  sulphuric  acid.  The 
apparatus  for  extracting  the  flowers 
consists  of  a  digesting  vessel,  a  holder 
for  the  purified  methyl  chloride,  a  her- 
metically closed  receiver,  and  an  air- 
pump.  Place  the  flowers  in  the  digest- 
ing vessel  and  submit  them  for  2  min- 
utes to  the  action  of  the  liquid  methyl 
chloride  which  is  then  run  into  the  re- 
ceiver. Repeat  this  operation  fre- 
quently, each  time  with  fresh  methyl 
chloride.  Finally  the  methyl  chloride 
absorbed  by  the  blossoms  in  the  digest- 
ing vessel  is  removed  by  rarefying  the 
air,  and  conveyed  to  the  condensing 
apparatus.  The  last  traces  of  it  may 
be  gained  by  the  introduction  of  a  jet 
of  steam.  The  methyl  chloride  col- 
lected in  the  receiver,  which  is  placed 
on  a  water-bath  heated  to  about  86°  F., 
is  volatilized  by  rarefying  the  air  to  i 
atmosphere,  the  perfuming  substances 
mixed  with  fatty  and  wax-like  matters 
remaining  behind.  By  treating  them 
with  cold  alcohol  the  perfume  is  ob- 
tained in  a  perfectly  pure  state. 

Manufacture  of  Perfumery.  Pure 
alcohol  free  from  fusel  oil  and  other 
substances  of  a  disagreeable  odor  is  one 
of  the  principal  requisites  for  the  manu- 
facture of  good  perfumery.  It  is  also 
of  the  utmost  importance  that  the 
ethereal  oils  used  should  be  perfectly 
pure  and  of  the  best  quality. 

Eau  des  Alpes.  Two  thousand  parts 
of  alcohol,  38  parts  each  of  oil  of  orange 
blossoms,  cedrat  oil,  and  oil  of  berga- 
mot,  15  parts  each  of  oil  of  lemon  and 
Portugal  oil,  8  parts  of  oil  of  wormwood, 
and  4  parts  of  oil  of  cloves. 

Eau  de  Cologne.  Six  hundred  and 
fifty  parts  of  96  per  cent,  alcohol,  50 
parts  each  of  orange  water  and  rose 
water,  200  parts  of  neroli,  400  parts  of 
oil  of  lavender,  200  parts  of  oil  of  berga- 
mot,  900  parts  of  "  petit-grain  "  oil,  250 
parts  of  oil  of  rosemary,  and  50  parts 
of  myrtle  oil. 

Otto's  Eau  de  Cologne.  Mix  the  fol- 
lowing ingredients  with  400  parts  of 


alcohol  of  86  per  cent.  Tralles:  Four 
parts  of  oil  of  lemon,  3  of  oil  of  berga- 
mot,  |  of  neroli,  i  of  lavender  oil,  i  of 
rosemary  oil,  1  of  spirit  of  sal-am- 
moniac. 

Thillaye's  Eau  de  Cologne.  Dissolve 
the  following  oils  in  2000  parts  of  strong 
alcohol :  60  part  each  of  bergamot  and 
lemon,  12  parts  of  cedrat,  and  3  parts 
of  rosemary. 

Wagners  Eau  de  Cologne.  Place 
the  following  ingredients  in  a  glass  mat- 


angelica  root, 
coriander  seed,  and  li  of  bruised  cloves. 
Pour  300  parts  of  alcohol  and  100  of 
water  over  them,  let  the  whole  digest 
for  48  hours,  and  then  distil  off  300 
parts.  Then  pour  100  parts  of  40  per 
cent,  alcohol  over  2i  of  neroli,  4  of 
orange  oil,  2  of  oil  of  bergamot,  £  of  oil 
of  peppermint,  2  of.tolu  balsam,  and  | 
of  essence  of  ambergris,  and  allow  the 
mixture  to  stand  quietly  for  24  hours. 
Then  pour  the  supernatant  liquid  off, 
mix  it  with  the  first,  let  the  whole  stand 
again  for  a  few  hours,  filter  through 
animal  charcoal,  and  finally  distil  it. 

Eau  de  Lavande  Ambra.  Four  hun- 
dred parts  of  alcohol,  100  parts  of  oil  of 
cloves,  200  parts  of  oil  of  bergamot,  600 
parts  of  oil  of  lavender,  100  parts  of  Port- 
ugal oil,  300  parts  of  tincture  of  violets, 
25  parts  each  of  tincture  of  benzoine  and 
tincture  of  storax,  50  parts  of  tincture  of 
musk,  25  parts  of  tincture  of  ambergris, 
100  parts  of  water,  and  100  parts  of 
sugar-color. 

Eau  de  Paris.  Eight  thousand  parts 
of  85  per  cent,  alcohol,  62  parts  each  of 
oil  of  lemons,  oil  ofbergamot,  and  Portu- 
gal oil,  15  parts  of  neroli,  and  8  parts  of 
oil  of  rosemary. 

Empress  Eugenie's  Nosegay.  One 
part  each  of  extracts  of  musk,  vanilla, 
tonka  beans,  and  neroli,  and  2  parts 
each  of  extracts  of  rose  geranium  and 
sandal  wood  and  triple  essence  of 
roses. 

Esprit  de  Patchouli.  Mix  1  part  of 
elixir  of  musk  and  1  part  of  patchouli 
oil  with  300  parts  of  cologne  water,  and 
distil  in  a  steam-bath. 

Esprit  de  Rose  triple.  Mix  100  parts 
of  rose  oil  with  4000  parts  of  rectified 
spirit  of  wine,  and  distil. 

Esprit  de  Toilette  Frangaise.    Dis- 


PERFUMERY,  POWDERS,  ETC. 


283 


solve  in  a  suitable  flask  li  parts  each 
of  the  following  oils :  lemon,  thyme, 
lavender,  and  bergamot,  and  i  part  of 
oil  of  cinnamon  in  500  parts  of  rectified 
spirit  of  wine. 

Ess.  Bouquet.  Four  ounces  of  extract 
of  musk,  2  ounces  of  extract  of  tube- 
roses, 1  drachm  of  rose  oil,  li  drachms 
of  oil  of  bergamot,  i  drachm  of  neroli, 
8  minims  of^oil  of  verbena,  10  minims 
of  oil  of  allspice,  3  minims  of  oil  of 
patchouli,  10  minims  of  oil  of  lavender, 
\  drachm  of  oil  of  cedar,  and  3  to  4 
pints  of  alcohol. 

Extrait  Violet. 

Extract  of  cassia 300  parts. 

"  rose 200 

"  jasmine 50 

"        "  tuberose 56 

Tincture  of  iris 100 

"  musk 200 

Oil  of  bergamot 6 

Extract  of  Iris.  Seven  pounds  of 
iris  root  of  good  quality  and  ground 
fine  are  treated  by  percolation  with 
pure  alcohol  until  1  gallon  of  extract 
is  obtained. 

Jockey  Club  Extract. 


Extract  of  jasmine  . 

"  "  violet  . 
"  musk 

"  "  vanilla  . 
Rose  oil  .  .  .  . 
Sandal  oil  .... 
Orange  blossom  oil . 
Benzoic  acid  .  . 


Alcohol 2  to  4  pints. 


Heliotrope  Extract. 

Vanilla 1^  drachma. 

Orange  blossom  oil 10  drops. 

Cherry-laurel  oil 5     " 

Musk %  grain. 

Benzoine 6  drachms. 

Rectified  alcohol 1  pint. 

Millefleur  Extract. 

Oil  of  rose 1  drachm. 

"    "  cedar 1       '• 

"  oranges 1       " 

"  allspice 20  minims. 

Extract  of  iris 6  ounces. 

"jasmine 2      " 

"  styrax 1  ounce. 

"  tonka 4  ounces. 

Alcohol 2  to  4  pints. 


Moss-Rose  Extract. 


Rose  oil 2  drachma. 

Ban.luloil 2 

Extract  of  musk 12  ounces. 

"  vanilla 4       " 

"  iris 2       " 

"        "  jasmine 4       " 

Benzoic  acid 1  drachm. 

Alcohol 1  to  4  pints. 

Musk  Extract.  Two  drachms  of  the 
finest  musk  in  grains  are  rubbed  up 
with  a  solution  of  i  ounce  of  carbonate 
of  potassium  in  4  ounces  of  alcohol,  until 
the  musk  is  thoroughly  soaked  and  lias 
the  consistency  of  cream.  A  sufficient 
quantity  of  alcohol  is  added  so  that 
the  whole  will  amount  to  a  pint,  and 
this  allowed  to  settle.  The  liquid  is 
then  poured  off,  and  the  coarser  parti- 
cles of  the  settled  musk  are  again 
rubbed  up  in  the  same  manner.  This 

Erocess  is  repeated  until  all  the  musk 
i  finely  divided,  when  the  whole  is 
allowed  to  stand  for  14  days,  and  3 
pints  of  extract  are  drawn  off. 

New  Garden  Nosegay.  Mix  50  parts 
of  neroli  extract,  25  parts  each  of  the 
extracts  of  acacia,  tuberose,  jasmine, 
and  rose  geranium  with  10  parts  each 
of  essence  of  musk  and  essence  of  am- 
bergris. 


New-mown  Hay. 


25  ounces, 


Extract  of  tonka  bean    .     . 

"       "  musk    .... 

"  iris 8      " 

"        "  vanilla 1  ounce. 

"       "  styrax 1 

Oil  of  bergamot 1      " 

Neroli 15  minims. 

Oil  of  rose 10       " 

"  patchouli 10       " 

"  cloves 6       " 

"   "  sandal  wood 1  drachm. 

Benzoic  acid 1%      " 

Alcohol Ito4  pints. 

Styrax  Extract.  Dissolve  8  drachms 
of  styrax  in  1  pint  of  alcohol. 

Tonka  Bean  Extract.  Convert  1 
pound  of  tonka  beans  into  a  coarse 
powder,  and  pour  sufficient  alcohol 
over  it  to  give  1  gallon  of  extract. 

Vanilla  Extract.  Rub  4  ounces  of 
finest  vanilla  beans  to  a  powder  to- 
gether with  4  to  6  ounces  of  loaf  sugar, 
and  extract  with  alcohol  by  percolation 
until  7  gallons  of  extract  have  been 
obtained. 


284 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Victoria  Extract. 

Oil  of  rose 2  drachms. 

"   "  neroli 2 

"    "  bergamot 4        " 

"   "  coriander 16  minims. 

"    "  lavender 16        " 

"    "  allspice 24 

Extract  of  jasmine 2  ounces. 

"  musk 2       " 

"        "  iris 16       " 

Benzoic  acid 2       " 

Alcohol 1  to  4  pints. 

West  End  Bouquet.  Mix  in  a  glass 
flask :  Fifty  parts  each  of  extracts  of 
acacia,  violet,  and  tuberose,  25  parts  of 
extract  of  jasmine,  150  parts  of  triple 
essence  of  rose,  25  parts  of  essence  of 
musk,  a  like  quantity  of  essence  of 
ambergris,  and  6£  parts  of  oil  of  berga- 
mot. 

White  Rose  Bouquet.  Oil  of  rose  2 
drachms,  cedar  oil  6  minims,  patchouli 
oil  4  minims,  orange  oil  i  drachm, 
extracts  of  tuberose,  iris,  jasmine,  and 
musk  each  2  ounces,  benzoic  acid  1 
drachm,  and  alcohol  1  to  4  pints  diluted 
with  4  ounces  of  rose  water. 

Ylang  Ylang. 

Oil  of  ylang-ylang 2  drachms. 

"    "  rose 1  drachm. 

"    "  neroli % 

Extract  of  vanilla 2  ounces. 

Tincture  of  tolu 8 

Alcohol 1  gallon. 

Bose  water  ........  1  pint. 

Allow  the  mixture  to  stand  for  sev- 
eral days,  and  then  filter  through  car- 
bonate of  magnesium. 

Ambergris  Vinegar.  White  vinegar 
800  parts,  ambergris  ^  part,  and  musk 
$  part.  Rub  the  ingredients  fine  in  a 
mortar  before  adding  them  to  the  vine- 
gar. Then  moisten  the  powder  with 
some  of  the  vinegar,  and  with  the  re- 
mainder rinse  out  the  mortar,  put  all 
into  a  flask,  allow  it  to  digest  for  5  or  6 
days,  and  then  draw  off  500  parts,  or, 
at  the  utmost,  600  parts. 

Aromatic  Vinegar.  Pour  300  parts 
of  vinegar  over  6  parts  each  of  chopped- 
up  leaves  of  rosemary,  garden  sage, 
peppermint,  bruised  cloves,  bruised 
zedoary  root,  and  pulverized  angelica 
root.  Macerate  for  4  days  in  a  closed 
vessel,  then  press  and  filter. 

Clove  Vinegar.  Digest  in  800  parts  of 
vinegar  for  3  days :  Eighteen  parts  of 


bruised  cloves,  6  parts  each  of  grated 
nutmegs  and  cinnamon,  9  parts  of  car- 
nation pink  blossoms,  3  parts  each  of 
mace,  cinnamon  blossoms,  and  orange 
blossoms ;  then  press  out  and  filter. 

Jasmine  Vinegar.  Pour  800  parts 
of  white- wine  vinegar  over  50  parts  of 
jasmine  blossoms,  and  9  parts  each  of 
borgamot  and  orange  rind  cut  up.  Let 
the  mixture  digest  for  3  (lays,  then  draw 
off  and  filter  the  vinegar. 

Lavender  Vinegar.  Pour  800  parts 
of  white-wine  vinegar  over  100  parts 
of  lavender  blossoms,  9  parts  each  of 
chopped  leaves  of  rosemary,  gentian, 
and  marjoram,  4£  parts  of  thyme  leaves 
cut  up,  and  3  parts  each  of  bruised 
angelica  root  and  violet  root.  Let  the 
mixture  digest  for  3  days,  draw  off  the 
liquid,  strain  the  residue,  add  the  liquid 
obtained  to  the  first,  and  filter  the 
whole  through  blotting  paper. 

Musk  Vinegar.  Digest  for  3  days 
in  800  parts  of  white-wine  vinegar: 
Twenty  parts  of  blossoms  of  the  yellow, 
sweet  sultan  flower,  3  parts  of  chopped 
rosemary  leaves,  and  6  parts  eacli  of 
bruised  anise  seed,  bruised  caraway 
seed,  chopped  angelica  root,  and 
bruised  cardamons;  press  out,  strain, 
and  add  3  parts  of  musk.  Let  the 
whole  stand  for  36  hours  and  filter 
through  blotting  paper.  The  musk 
remaining  upon  the  filter  can  be  used 
several  times  in  preparing  this  vine- 
gar. 

Orange  Blossom  Vinegar.  Pour  500 
parts  of  white-wine  vinegar  over  16 
parts  of  orange  blossoms,  6  of  jasmine 
blossoms,  6  of  jonquil,  6  of  mignonette, 
3  of  heliotrope  blossoms,  3  of  cassia 
blossoms,  and  2  of  ground  caliatour- 
wood.  Digest  for  3  days,  strain  and 
filter. 

Rose  Vinegar.  Digest  in  3  parts  of 
pure  white  vinegar  1  part  of  red  roses 
and  1  of  white.  Let  the  whole  stand 
for  6  days,  then  press  out,  strain  and 
filter. 

Toilette  Vinegar.  This  toilette  arti- 
cle, much  in  demand  in  Paris,  is  com- 
posed as  follows :  Three  hundred  parts 
of  acetic  acid  of  6°,  1000  parts  of  80 
per  cent,  alcohol,  20  parts  each  of 
tincture  of  tolu  and  tincture  of  ben- 
zoin, 4  parts  each  of  the  oils  of  lemon, 
bergamot,  Portugal  and  cedar,  2  parts 
of  oil  of  limes,  1  part  of  neroli,  5i  parts 


PERFUMERY,  POWDERS,  ETC. 


of  lavender  oil,  I  part  of  oil  of  rose- 
mary, and  TV  part  of  musk. 

To  give  the  preparation  an  agreeable 
color  add  from  1£  to  3  parts  of  tincture 
of  ratauhy. 

Vanilla  Vinegar.  Digest  for  4  days 
in  500  parts  of  red  Burgundy  vinegar  : 
Four  parts  of  grated  vanilla  beans,  8 
of  pulverized  cinnamon,  and  2  of  pul- 
verized cloves;  then  press  out,  strain 
and  filter. 

Vinaigre  de  Bectute.  Digest  in  a 
flask  for  3  days  in  500  parts  of  red 
Burgundy  vinegar :  Thirty  parts  of  rose 
leaves,  lbrof  daffodil  blossoms,  8  of  jas- 
mine blossoms,  3  of  jonquils,  and  2  each 
of  marjoram  and  common  balm  leaves 
cut  up ;  press  out  and  strain  the  fluid. 

Vinaigre  des  Dames.  Digest  for  3 
days  with  frequent  shaking:  Three 
hundred  parts  of  red  wine  vinegar,  50 
parts  of  rose  leaves,  18  parts  each  of 
blossoms  of  jasmine  and  carnation 
pinks,  9  parts  each  of  ground  rosewood 
and  sandal  wood,  and  3  parts  each  of 
quassia  wood  and  sassafras  wood  cut  up 
in  pieces;  then  press  out  the  liquid, 
strain  through  a  cloth  and  finally  filter 
through  blotting  paper. 

Vinaigve  Ar^omatique  de  J.  V.  Bully. 
This  toilet  article  is  much  in  demand. 
It  is  composed  of  30  parts  each  of  oil 
of  bergamot  and  oil  of  lemon  rind,  12 
parts  of  Portugal  oil,  25  parts  of  oil  of 
rosemary,  4  parts  each  of  lavender  oil 
and  neroli,  50  parts  of  spirit  of  balm, 
and  1000  parts  of  alcohol.  Let  the 
mixture  stand  for  24  hours,  shaking  it 
frequently,  and  then  add  60  parts  each 
of  tinctures  of  benzoin,  tolu,  and  storax, 
and  100  parts  of  spirit  of  carnation 
pinks.  Shake  again,  and  after  24  hours 
add  2000  parts  of  distilled  vinegar,  and 
finally  after  letting  it  stand  for  12  hours 
compound  the  mixture  with  90  parts  of 
radical  vinegar. 

Vinaigre  d' Hebe  (to  Remove  Freckles). 
Six  thousand  five  hundred  parts  of  vine- 
gar, 1350  of  lemons  cut  up  in  small 
pieces,  850  of  alcohol  of  85°  Tralles,  225 
of  oil  of  lavender,  5  of  rose  oil,  60  of 
cedar  oil,  and  850  of  water.  Let  the 
mixture  stand  for  3  days  exposed  to  the 
Bun,  and  then  filter. 

Apply  the  fluid  to  the  skin  by  means 
of  a  sponge  before  retiring  at  night  and 


-•«, 
of 


Cucumber  Essence  is  much  used  in 
cosmetics  intended  for  beautifying  the 
complexion.  To  prevent  the  juice  from 
spoiling  or  becoming  rancid  when  mixed 
with  fat,  mix  the  fresh  juice  with  an 
equal  volume  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol, 
and  distil  off  the  latter.  If  not  suffi- 
ciently perfumed  add  fresh  juice  and 
distil. 

Cucumber  Milk  is  prepared  by  mak- 
ing an  emulsion  from  8  parts  of  sweet 
almonds,  20  parts  of  fresh  cucumber 
juice  previously  boiled,  and  i  of  Castile 
soap  dissolved  in  6  of  cucumber  essence, 
and  finally  adding  &  of  tincture  of 
benzoin. 

Lily  Essence.  Mix  250  parts  of  ex- 
tract of  tuberoses,  33  parts  of  extract 
of  jasmine,  66  i  parts  of  extract  of  orange 
blossoms,  100  parts  of  vanilla  extract, 
125  parts  each  of  the  extracts  of  acacia 
and  rose,  and  a  trace  of  ethereal  oil  of 
bitter  almonds.  The  mixture  must  at 
least  stand  for  1  month  before  it  is  fit 
for  sale. 

Narval  Bouquet.  Two  hundred  and 
fifty  parts  each  of  rose  essence,  extract 
of  sandal  wood,  patchouli  essence,  and 
verbena  essence. 

Moss-rose  Essence.  One  thousand 
parts  of  alcoholic  extract  of  French 
rose-pomade,  500  parts  of  triple  spirit 
of  rose,  500  parts  of  alcoholic  extract 
of  orange  blossom  pomade,  250  parts 
of  extract  of  ambergris,  and  125  parts 
of  extract  of  musk. 

The  extract  from  pomades  is  obtained 
in  the  following  manner :  Five  hundred 
parts  of  pomade  are  cut  up  in  small 
pieces  and  placed  in  a  capacious  flask, 
together  with  575  parts  of  alcohol.  The 
flask  is  then  hermetically  closed  and 
placed  in  a  water-bath  until  the  pomade 
is  melted,  when  it  is  converted  into  a 
fine-grained  mass  by  shaking.  The 
mixture  is  allowed  to  stand  for  a  few 
days,  being  occasionally  shaken,  and 
the  supernatant  fluid  is  then  drawn  off. 
By  repeating  this  operation  2  or  3  times 
a  weaker  extract  is  obtained  suitable 
for  cheap  perfumeries. 

Odeur  Fin  National.  Put  J  grain 
of  musk  into  a  flask,  pour  6  fluid  ounces 
of  85  to  90  per  cent,  alcohol  over  it, 
close  the  flask,  shake  it  several  times, 
and  let  it  stand  for  24  hours ;  then  add 


let  it  dry.    Wash  the  next  morning  with  j  5  drops  of  rose  oil,  50  grains  each  of  the 
cold  water.  '  oils  of  bergamot  and  cloves    1  fluid 


286 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


drachm  of  cedar  oil,  and  i  fluid  drachm 
of  oil  of  lavender.  Shake  the  mixture 
thoroughly  and  let  it  stand  for  3  days, 
frequently  agitating  it.  Pour  off  the 
clear  liquid  or  filter  it  through  unsized 
paper. 

A  few  drops  of  this  mixture  imparts 
an  agreeab.c-  and  lasting  perfume  to  a 
handkerchief. 

Tea-rose  Essence.  Alcoholic  extract 
of  French  rose  pomade,  triple  spirit  of 
rose,  and  extract  of  rose  geranium  of 
each  50  parts,  extract  of  sandal  wood 
25  parts,  extract  of  neroli  and  extract 
of  orris  root  of  each  12^  parts. 

Violette  de  Bois.  Essence  of  violets 
500  parts,  essence  of  acacia,  essence  of 
rose  pomade,  and  extract  of  iris  root  of 
each  100  parts,  and  oil  of  bitter  almonds 
a  trace. 

White  Rose  Essence.  Alcoholic  ex- 
tract of  French  rose  pomade,  triple 
spirit  of  roses,  and  spirit  of  violets  of 
each  100  parts,  extract  of  jasmine  50 
parts,  extract  of  patchouli  25  parts. 

HAIR  OILS.  Flower  Oil.  Sesame 
oil  400  parts,  geranium  oil  400  parts, 
oils  of  lavender  and  bergamot  of  each 
100  parts,  "petit-grain  oil"  50  parts, 
and  angelica  oil  a  trace. 

Good  and  Cheap  Hair  Oil.  By  reason 
of  competition  in  trade  the  price  of  hair 
oil  has  been  so  much  reduced  that  in 
place  of  good  olive  oil  cheaper  oils,  as 
sesame  oil,  refined  cotton-seed  oil,  etc., 
belonging  to  the  half-drying  oils,  are 
perfumed,  colored,  and  sold  as  good 
hair  oil. 

Rape-seed  oil  is  a  good  fat  oil  and, 
when  freshly  pressed  and  chemically 
pure,  gives  a  much  better  and  much 
cheaper  oil  to  the  manufacturer  than 
the  above  oils,  and  may  be  still  further 
improved  by  compounding  it  with  10 
per  cent,  of  castor  oil. 

Rape-seed  oil  is  refined  as  follows: 
Pour  10,000  parts  of  crude  rape-seed  oil, 
freshly  pressed,  into  a  capacious  flask, 
and  add  4  parts  of  camphor  and  40  parts 
of  oil  of  cloves  previously  dissolved  in 
200  parts  of  strong  alcohol.  Mix  by 
shaking  the  flask  vigorously,  and  then 
add  900  parts  of  solution  of  perman- 
ganate of  potassium  obtained  by  dis- 
solving 50  parts  of  the  permanganate 
in  1000  of  water.  The  whole  is  then 
thoroughly  mixed  and  placed  aside  for 
a  few  days  until  the  brown  color  of  the 


mixture  has  disappeared.  Now  add 
600  parts  of  diluted  hydrochloric  acid 
containing  12.5  per  cent,  of  the  acid. 
The  mixture  is  allowed  to  stand,  being 
frequently  shaken,  until  the  oil  floats 
nearly  clear  upon  the  aqueous  fluid, 
when  it  is  poured  ofl'and  filtered  through 
paper.  During  all  the  operation  the 
flask  must  be  kept  closed. 

A  good  hair  oil  is  now  prepared  as 
follows :  Color  500  parts  of  refined  rape- 
seed  oil  red  with  alkanet,  add  50  parts 
of  castor  oil,  and  perfume  with  4  parts 
of  oil  of  bergamot,  2  parts  of  oil  of 
balm,  and  1  part  of  essence  of  mirbane 
(nitro-beuzole). 

II.  Mix  90  'parts  of  fresh  olive  oil 
with  3  of  sweet-scented  oil,  and,  if  de- 
sired, color  red  with  alkanet. 

Another  Receipt.  Bruise  250  parts 
of  fresh  southernwood  (Artemisia  abro- 
tanum),  pour  750  parts  of  olive  oil  and 
250  parts  of  white  wine  over  it,  boil  the 
whole,  and  press  out  the  liquid  through 
a  linen  cloth.  Repeat  this  3  times,  but 
every  time  with  fresh  southernwood, 
and  add,  during  the  last  operation,  60 
parts  of  bear's  grease.  This  oil  is 
claimed  to  be  excellent  for  producing 
new  hair  upon  bald  heads. 

Hamilton's  Hair  Oil.  Pour  500  parts 
of  fine  olive  oil  into  a  glass,  and  add  8i 
parts  of  alkanet.  When  the  fluid  has 
assumed  a  fine  dark  red  color,  pour  off 
the  clear  oil  or  filter  through  filtering 
paper,  and  add  any  ethereal  oil,  as  the 
oil  of  jasmine,  cloves,  cinnamon,  etc. 

Huile  antique  a  la  Bergamotte.  Mix 
500  parts  of  pure  oil  of  almonds  or  fil- 
berts with  60  parts  of  oil  of  bergamot, 
and  let  the  mixture  digest  in  the 
sun  for  14  days,  and  put  up  in  bottles. 

Huile  antique  ci  r Heliotrope.  Put  4 
parts  of  the  finest  oil  of  almonds  and 
a  like  quantity  of  heliotrope  blossoms 
into  a  glass  retort,  place  it  in  a  sand- 
bath  and  distil  at  a  moderate  heat. 
Place  the  distillate  in  a  cool  place  for  8 
days,  and  then  bottle  the  oil. 

Huile  a  rHeliotrope.  The  helio- 
trope blossoms  should  be  picked  very 
carefully  and  full-blown  ones  selected. 
The  perfume  is  extracted  by  absorption 
with  fat. 

The  following  may  be  used  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  the  natural  oil :  Fifteen  parts 
of  Peruvian  balsam  are  digested  for  14 
days  in  500  parts  of  good  oil,  shaking 


PERFUMERY,  POWDERS,  ETC. 


287 


the  vessel  frequently.  When  the  mixt- 
ure is  clear  add  60  parts  of  jasmine  oil 
and  30  parts  each  of  the  oils  of  roses 
and  bitter  almonds.  This  oil  keeps  a 
long  time  and  resembles  very  much  the 
heliotrope  oil  in  odor.  More  strength 
and  a  more  agreeable  aroma  can  be 
given  it  by  adding  GO  parts  of  vanilla 
oil  and  30  parts  each  of  the  oils  of  am- 
bergris and  musk. 

Huile  &  r  Oeillet.  Two  kinds  of  pinks 
are  used:  the  dark  red  carnation  and 
the  red  with  white  stripes.  The  flowers- 
are  freed  from  the  calyx  and  placed  in 
quite  thick  layers  upon  cotton  cloths. 
After  the  oil  has  been  pressed  out  a 
stronger  aroma  can  be  imparted  to  it  by 
adding  to  and  mixing  it  with  ethereal 
oil  of  carnation  pinks. 

Should  it  be  impossible  to  procure 
fresh  flowers  the  following  mixture  may 
be  used  in  place  of  the  oil :  Oil  free 
from  all  odor  24  parts,  orange  blossom 
oil  and  jasmine  oil  of  each  12  parts,  and 
ethereal  oil  of  carnation  pinks  IK  Mix 
the  whole  together  by  shaking,  and  let 
the  mixture  become  clear. 

Huile  antique  a  la  Vanille.  Take 
pure  oil  of  almonds  50  parts  and  1.5  of 
oil  of  vanilla  and  follow  the  directions 
given  under  huile  antique  &  la  ber- 
gamotte. 

Huile  de  millefleurs  et  de  Pot-pourri. 
Mix  intimately  the  following  oils:  Six- 
teen parts  each  of  jasmine  and  rose,  8 
each  of  orange  blossoms  and  tuberose, 
6  of  cassia,  4  each  of  hyacinthe,  vanilla, 
and  jonquil,  and  i  of  carnation  pink. 
When  the  mixture  is  clear  add  60  parts 
of  flower  oil.  If  a  stronger  perfume  is 
desired,  add  4  parts  each  of  the  oils  of 
ambergris  and  musk. 

Pot-pourri  Oil  is  prepared  from  the 
same  ingredients  with  an  addition  of  4 
parts  of  oi  1  of  bergamot  and  a  trace  of 
oil  of  thyme. 

Macassar  Oil.  Mix  fine  inodorous 
oil  of  sunflower  seed  60  parts,  liquid 
goose-grease  and  horse  oil  each  4  parts, 
liquid  storax  and  egg  oil  each  2,  neroli 
1,  thyme-oil  2,  Peruvian  balsam  k,  rose 
oil  i,  cacao  butter  2.  Let  the  mixture 
stand  for  a  few  hours  in  a  moderately 
warm  place,  then  put  in  bottles  and 
keep  them  in  a  cool  place. 

Sweet  /Scented  Oil.  Mix  intimately 
the  following  oils :  Of  cinnamon  bios- 
souls  i  part,  carnation  pinks  i,  of  berga- 


mot and  cedar  each  3,  and  vanilla 
essence  2. 

Lime  Juice  and  Glycerine  is  much 
used  in  America  as  a  substitute  for 
hair  oil.  The  mixture  does  not  become 
rancid  and,  by  reason  of  the  citric  acid 
contained  in  it,  exerts  a  stimulating 
1  effect  upon  the  roots  of  the  hair.  The 
following  mixture  gives  an  excellent 
preparation :  White  wax  1  part,  oil  of 
sweet  almonds  20,  lime  water  22, 
glycerine  2,  and  oil  of  lemons  i. 

POMADES.  An  addition  of  soap  im- 
proves pomades.  Before  perfuming 
add  about  250  parts  of  soap  dissolved  in 
hot  water  and  about  If  parts  of  borax 
to  12,500  parts  of  pomade  stock.  This 
renders  the  pomade  as  white  as  snow, 
and  very  emollient,  which  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  attain  by  an  addition  of  stearine. 
This  pomade  will  bear  an  admixture 
of  i  water. 

Aurora  Pomade  is  prepared  from 
orris  root  and  cacao  butter.  It  is  a 
patented  article,  and  sold  at  50  cents 
per  pot  containing  i  ounce. 

Beef-marroic  Pomade.  Melt  together 
4000  parts  of  lard  and  2000  parts  of 
beef-marrow,  strain  through  fine  linen, 
and  then  stir  with  a  wooden  or 
porcelain  pestle  until  the  pomade  is 
cold.  Then  work  in  60  parts  of  oil  of 
bergamot  and  1  part  of  rose  oil,  or  any 
other  perfume  desired.  If  the  pomade 
is  to  be  colored  yellow,  add  to  the  fat, 
while  yet  hot,  some  crude  palm  oil  or 
saffron  ;  red  is  obtained  by  an  addition 
of  a  few  drops  of  alkanet. 

Creme  Celeste.  Melt  2  J  parts  of  white 
wax,  50  parts  each  of  spermaceti  and 
oil  of  almonds,  and  add  33  parts  of 
rose  water. 

Creme  Cristallisee.  Dissolve  1  part 
of  spermaceti  in  1  of  huile  antique  de 
rose,  a  like  quantity  of  oil  of  tuberose, 
^  of  huile  antique  of  orange  blossoms, 
and  2i  of  oil  of  almonds.  Fill  the  clear 
mixture  into  small  glass  jars  and  let  it 
cool  slowly. 

Glycerine  Balsam.  Melt  white  wax 
and  spermaceti  each  33  parts,  and  add 
fat  oil  of  almonds  250  parts,  glycerine 
66  parts,  and  rose  oil  I  part. 

Ice  Pomade.  Finest  olive  oil  2000 
parts,  spermaceti  500,  oil  of  bergamot 
50,  neroli  10,  oil  of  carnation  pink  30, 
good  olive  oil  50. 

Neroli  Pomade.    Mix  i  part  of  rose- 


288 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


pomade  and  a  like  quantity  of  jasmine- 
pomade  with  2  part  of  fat  oil  of  almonds, 
and  1  of  neroli. 

Pomade  according  to  Wagner.  Fif- 
teen parts  of  salicylic  acid,  30  parts  of 
spirit  of  wine  of  91  per  cent.,  and  150 
parts  of  lard. 

Pomade  according  to  Winterberg. 
One  hundred  and  fifty  parts  of  lard, 
120  parts  of  beefs  marrow,  a  like  quan- 
tity of  white  wax,  60  parts  of  Peruvian 
balsam,  40  parts  of  oil  of  jasmine,  and 
5  parts  of  salicylic  acid. 

Pomade  a  la  Duchessc.  One  hun- 
dred and  twenty  parts  of  soft  lard,  3 
each  of  neroli,  oil  of  bergamot,  arid  oil 
of  lemon,  1  of  tincture  of  ambergris, 
and  TTJ  of  tincture  of  musk. 

Pomade  an  Bouquet.  Two  hundred 
parts  of  soft  pomade  fat,  5  of  "pet.it 
grain"  oil,  1  each  of  neroli,  rose  oil, 
and  oil  of  geranium,  £  each  of  oil  of 
cinnamon  and  Peruvian  balsam,  and  ^ 
of  tincture  of  musk. 

Pomade  Divine.  Soak  400  parts  of 
crude  beefs  marrow  for  10  days  in  pure 
cold  water,  changing  the  water  twice 
every  day.  Then  melt  the  400  parts  of 
beefs  marrow,  and  while  it  is  yet  liquid 
add  500  parts  of  rose  water ;  pour  the 
whole  into  a  jar  which  contains  16  parts 
each  of  flowers  of  benzoin,  storax,  and 
orris  root,  and  8  parts  each  of  cinnamon, 
nutmeg,  and  cloves;  cork  the  jar  tightly, 
and  place  it  on  the  fire  in  a  vessel  filled 
with  cold  water.  Then  heat  over  a 
moderate  fire  until  all  is  melted,  pour 
it  out  and  stir  it  until  it  congeals.  This 
pomade,  it  is  claimed,  promotes  the 
growth  of  hair.  Rub  the  scalp  with  it 
before  retiring. 

Red  Pomade.  Melt  together  in  a 
porcelain  dish  90  parts  of  olive  oil  of 
the  best  quality,  30  parts  each  of  white 
wax  and  spermaceti,  and  3  to  4  parts 
of  alkinet  finely  pulverized ;  then  add 
4  parts  of  an  essential  oil  and  a  few  of 
rose  oil  and  pour  the  mixture  into  small 
porcelain  jars. 

Rose  Pomade.  One  thousand  two  hun- 
dred parts  of  French  fat  rose  oil,  100  of 
white  wax,  200  of  spermaceti,  1  of 
Turkish  rose  oil,  2  of  geranium  oil  of 
best  quality,  1  of  oil  of  bergamot,  and 
1  of  alkanet. 

Stick*  and  Beard  Pomatum.     Brown 


*  Barbers'  pomatum  generally  comes  in  sticka. 


Beard  Pomatum.  Melt  together  750 
parts  of  olive  oil,  250  parts  of  lard,  and 
375  parts  of  wax.  Let  the  mixture 
stand  for  some  time,  then  press  out  the 
clear  fluid,  and  perfume  it  with  1\  parts 
of  oil  of  bergamot,  12  parts  of  oil  of 
cloves,  and  7i  parts  of  Peruvian  bal- 
sam, and  color  it  with  brown  umber  or 
alkanet  which  has  been  mixed  with 
some  bone  black. 

ffeld's  Beard  Pomatums.  I.  Take 
3i  parts  each  of  pulverized  Venetian 
•soap  and  gum-Arabic,  16$  parts  each  of 
rose  water  and  white  wax,  and  a  few 
drops  of  rose  oil.  Rub  the  soap  and 
the  gum-Arabic  together  with  the  rose 
water,  adding  the  latter  all  at  one  time 
to  prevent  the  formation  of  lumps. 
Then  melt  the  wax  in  a  spoon  or  other 
suitable  vessel,  and  mix  it  with  the 
above  paste,  first  heating  the  rubbing- 
dish  or  mortar  containing  it,  so  that  the 
wax  shall  not  congeal  too  rapidly,  and 
a  homogeneous,  smooth  compound  is 
obtained. 

II.  Take  16J  parts  each  of  finely- 
pulverized  gum-Arabic  and  Venetian 
soap,  100  parts  of  rose  water,  33  parts 
of  white  wax,  and  a  few  drops  of  rose 
oil.  Proceed  as  above.  Then  mix  16-J- 
parts  of  good  ordinary  soap  and  5  parts 
of  gum-Arabic,  both  pulverized,  with 
about  133  parts  of  water,  and  put  the 
mixture  in  a  new,  glazed  earthenware 
pot.  Then  add  5  parts  of  white  wax 
and  boil  the  whole  over  a  moderate 
coal  fire  until  it  has  the  desired  con- 
sistency. Perfume  the  compound  when 
cold  with  any  kind  of  ethereal  oil. 

Hungarian  Moustache  Pomatum. 
Take  500  parts  of  lead-pi  aster,  6i  parts 
of  acacia  oil,  3  parts  of  rose  oil,  and  1£ 
parts  each  of  oils  of  cloves  and  bitter 
almonds.  Give  the  desired  shade  of 
color  with  sienna  rubbed  up  in  oil,  and 
then  mix  the  ingredients  by  first  melt- 
ing the  lead-plaster  in  water. 

Stick  Pomades.  I.  Consists  of  purified 
lard  and  white  wax  each  500  parts, 
jasmine  pomade  and  tuberose  pomade 
each  250  parts,  and  rose  oil  li  parts. 

II.  Mix  purified  lard  500  parts,  white 
wax  250  parts,  oil  of  bergamot  33  parts, 
and  oil  of  cassia  IV  parts.  The  poma- 
tum is  colored  black  with  lampblack, 
or  brown  with  umber  rubbed  up  in 
oil. 

HAIR  RESTORERS,  TONICS,  WASHES, 


PERFUMERY,   POWDERS,  ETC. 


289 


ETC.  American  Shampooing  Liquid  to 
Promote  the  Growth  of  Hair.  Mix :  Rum 
1000  parts,  alcohol  120,  tincture  of 
cantharides  5,  carbonate  of  ammonium 
5,  and  salt  of  tartar  10.  Rub  the  head 
thoroughly  with  the  mixture  and  then 
wash  with  cold  water. 

Bandolines.  I.  Mix  in  a  wide-necked 
flask  30  parts  of  gum-tragacanth  con- 
verted into  a  coarse  powder  with  5UO 
of  rose  water;  let  the  mixture  stand 
for  2  or  3  days,  shaking  it  several  times 
every  day,  and  then  strain  through  a 
linen  cloth,  using  gentle  pressure. 

II.  Boil  1  tablespoonful  of  whole  flax- 
seed  for  5  minutes  in  1  pint  of  water 
and  strain. 

Bay-rum  Hair  Tonic.  Mix  inti- 
mately 150  parts  of  tincture  of  bay 
leaves,  4  parts  of  ethereal  bay  oil,  30 
parts  of  bicarbonate  of  ammonium,  30 
parts  of  borax,  and  1000  parts  of  rose 
water;  and  filter  after  the  mixture  lias 
been  allowed  to  stand  for  a  short  time. 

Buhlingen's  Hair  Tonic.  Tincture 
of  arnica  blossoms  10  parts,  glycerine 
5  parts,  spirit  of  wine  10  parts,  and 
water  60  parts. 

Cheap  and  Efficacious  Hair  Tonic. 
Mix :  Eau  de  Cologne  60  parts,  tinct- 
ure of  cantharides  8  parts,  rosemary 
oil  and  lavender  oil  of  each  a  few 
drops. 

Cheap  Hair  Wash.  Pulverize  30 
parts  of  borax  and  15  parts  of  cam- 
phor, and  dissolve  the  powder  in  1500 
parts  of  boiling  water.  The  solution 
when  cold  is  ready  for  use.  The  cam- 
phor will  form  small  lumps,  but  this 
does  not  destroy  the  efficacy  of  the 
solution,  as  the  water  is  thoroughly 
impregnated.  This  wash,  with  which 
the  hair  should  be  frequently  moistened, 
not  only  cleanses  and  improves  it, 
but  strengthens  the  growth,  preserves 
the  color,  and  prevents  premature  bald- 
ness. 

E<iu  de  Lustre  (For  Dressing  the 
Hair).  I.  Dissolve  120  parts  of  gum- 
Arabic  La  500  ]>arts  of  tepid  water,  and 
add  to  the  solution  4  parts  of  sandurac. 
Before  the  water  becomes  entirely  cold 
add  to  it  the  white  of  2  eggs  beaten  to  a 
froth,  and  then  compound  the  whole 
with  some  rose  water.  In  place  of  the 
gum-Arabic  15  parts  of  pulverized 
sugar  may  be  used.  In  using  this 
preparation  pour  a  little  of  it  into  a 
19 


small  saucer  and  apply  it  to  the  hair 
with  an  old  tooth-brush. 

II.  Boil  7  parts  of  isinglass  in  500 
parts  of  water,  add  7  parts  of  pulver- 
ized sugar  and  250  parts  of  spirit  of 
wine  or  rose  water,  and  shake  vigor- 
ously until  a  homogeneous  mixture  is 
formed. 

Glycerine  Wash.  Dissolve  33  parts 
of  borax  in  4000  parts  of  orange  blos- 
som water,  and  add  250  parts  of  glyc- 
erine. 

Rosemary  Hair  Wash.  Dissolve  33 
parts  of  pearlash  in  2000  parts  of  rose- 
mary water,  and  add  250  parts  of  recti- 
fied spirit  of  wine.  This  preparation 
can  be  colored  brown  with  kino. 

T I  '<ish  to  Remove  Dandruff.  Glycerine, 
chlorate  of  potassium,  borax,  and  spirit 
of  camphor  each  1  part,  and  water  25 
parts.  Rub  the  scalp  thoroughly  with 
this  preparation  before  retiring,  and 
wash  the  head  with  the  yelk  of  egg  once 
or  twice  a  week. 

HAIR  DYES.  The  basis  of  nearly  all 
hair  dyes  is  either  lead  or  silver,  and 
the  constant  application  of  these  metals 
to  the  skin  is  dangerous.  \Ve  here  gi  ve 
several  such  dyes  with  a  silver  basis, 
quite  as  much  for  the  purpose  of  in- 
structing those  who  would  use  these 
preparations  of  the  risk  they  run  as  of 
furnishing  formulae  for  compounding 
them.  To  these  we  have  added  some 
which  are  innoxious,  although  these 
latter  are  not  so  effective  as  those  pre- 
pared from  silver  and  lead.  Let  the  use 
of  all  hair  dyes  be  practised  with  the 
utmost  care. 

Brown  Hair  Dye.  Dissolve  33  parts 
of  nitrate  of  silver  in  250  parts  of  rose 
water  and  filter  the  solution.  The  mor- 
dant used  with  this  preparation  con- 
sists of  a  solution  of  33  parts  of  sulphide 
of  potassium  in  250  parts  of  water.  The 
mordantis  first  applied  and.  when  dry, 
the  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver. 

Eau  de  Chine  pour  Noicir  les  Che- 
vaux.  This  hair  dye,  sold  in  Paris,  is 
prepared  in  the  following  manner :  Put 
8  parts  of  pure  silver  in  a  flask  and 
pour  gradually  30  parts  of  aqua-fortis 
over  it.  Place  an  earthen  vessel  filled 
with  sand  over  a  moderate  fire  and  put 
the  flask  into  the  sand.  As  soon  as 
the  silver  is  dissolved  add  1  ounce  of 
mercury  and  3  fluid  ounces  of  aqua- 
fortis. When  the  solution  is  complete 


290 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


add  gradually  i  pint  of  distilled  water, 
then  take  the  retort  from  the  sand  and 
let  it  stand  in  a  moderately  warm  place 
until  the  liquid  is  clear,  and  then  fill  it 
in  bottles  which  must  be  well  closed. 

Eau  Lojeune  is  a  hair-dye  manu- 
factured by  M.  Lajeune,  perfumer  in 
Paris.  An  elegant  box  contains  3 
bottles  of  fluids  and  2small  hairbrushes. 
Bottle  No.  1  contains  a  clear  fluid  con- 
sisting of  25  grains  of  pyrogallic  acid, 
4|  grains  of  alkanet,  6  fluid  drachms 
of  spirit  of  wine,  and  1  fluid  ounce  of 
water.  Bottle  No.  2  contains  a  thick- 
ish,  brown,  opaque  fluid,  composed  of 
4  ounce  of  nitrate  of  silver,  1  fluid 
drachm  of  spirit  of  sal-ammoniac,  f 
fluid  drachm  of  gum- Arabic,  and  7  fluid 
drachms  of  distilled  water.  Bottle  No. 
3,  labelled  "Fixateur,"  contains  a  fluid 
consisting  of  7f  grains  of  sodium  sul- 
phide and  2  fluid  drachms  of  water. 

Hager's  Innoxious  Hair  Dye  as  a 
Substitute  for  Lead  Preparations. 
Place  10  parts  of  basic  nitrate  of  bis- 
muth and  150  parts  of  glycerine  in  a 
glass  matrass,  heat  it  gently  and  add 
caustic  potash  lye  until  by  shaking, 
gentle  heating,  and  digesting  on  a  water- 
bath  a  solution  as  clear  as  water  is 
obtained.  Then  add  citric  acid  dis- 
solved in  an  equal  quantity  of  water 
until  the  alkaline  reaction  only  slightly 
prevails.  Then  add  sufficient  orange 
blossom  water  until  the  whole  amounts 
to  300  parts.  The  fluid  may  now  be 
compounded  with  some  aniline  color. 
This  preparation  gives  good  results, 
but  its  effect  is  somewhat  slow. 

Innoxious  Hair  Dye.  Prepare  a 
pomade  of  5  parts  of  lard  and  2  of  white 
wax  by  melting  these  two  ingredients 
together,  and  mixing  with  them  2  parts 
of  bone-black.  The  dye  is  not  a  very 
durable  one,  but  it  is  entirely  harmless, 
and  if  carefully  applied  does  not  rub 
off  as  easily  as  might  be  supposed. 

Turkish  Hair  Dye.  Pulverized  gall- 
nuts  are  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  suffi- 
cient fat  oil,  and  the  paste  is  then  roasted 
in  an  iron  vessel  until  no  more  oily 
vapors  escape.  The  residue  is  rubbed 
to  a  paste  with  water  and,  while  yet 
moist,  mixed  as  intimately  as  possible 
with  sufficient  metallic  powder,  consist- 
ing of  the  finest  iron  and  copper  dust, 
so  as  to  retain  the  consistency  of  an 
ointment,  and  perfumed  with  powdered 


ambergris.  The  preparation  must  be 
kept  in  a  moist  place,  as  thereby  only  it 
acquires  the  property  of  dyeing  the 
hair  black.  One  application  is  suffi- 
cient to  impart  a  beautiful  black  to  the 
hair,  which  it  retains  for  a  long  time, 
leaving  it  soft  and  glossy. 

Depilatory  Compounds.  Triturate  in 
a  saucer  20  parts  of  quicklime,  1  of 
pure  potash,  and  1  of  potassium  sul- 
phide, and  stir  the  whole  into  a  paste 
with  warm  water.  Soak  the  hair  in 
warm  water  of  128°  F.  for  10  minutes, 
and  apply  the  above  paste  while  yet 
warm.  The  effect  is  instantaneous; 
but  the  skin  should  be  washed  with  vin- 
egar to  remedy  any  injurious  effect  the 
preparation  may  have  on  it. 

Sulphhydrate  of  Sodium  is  recom- 
mended by  R.  Bottger  as  a  very  effec- 
tive and  inodorous  agent  destructive 
of  hair.  It  is  readily  obtained  by  rub- 
bing together  intimately  1  part  by 
weight  of  crystallized  sulphhydrate  of 
sodium  with  3  parts  by  weight  of  fine 
purified  chalk  to  a  fine  powder.  By 
moistening  this  mixture,  which  keeps 
for  an  unlimited  time  in  well-closed 
glass  vessels  without  suffering  decom- 
position, with  a  few  drops  of  water  to 
a  thick  paste,  and  placing  it  in  a  layer 
of  the  thickness  of  a  knife  blade  upon 
a  hide  covered  with  hair,  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  thickest  hair  is  changed 
within  a  few  minutes  into  a  soft  mass 
easily  removed  from  the  skin  with 
water.  Great  care  should  be  used  in 
applying  it  to  the  human  body. 

COSMETIC  AND  MEDICATED  WA- 
TERS. "  Anhalt"  Water.  Pulverize 
i  ounce  each  of  galanga  and  rosemary 
blossoms,  the  same  quantity  each  of 
fennel  seed,  bay  leaves,  and  frankin- 
cense, and  the  same  each  of  cloves, 
cubebs,  nutmegs,  cinnamon,  and  mastic. 
Place  the  powders  in  glass  flasks,  pour 
i  pint  of  Venetian  turpentine  and  1 
gallon  of  rectified  spirit  of  wine  over 
them,  and  let  the  whole  digest  for  6 
days;  then  add  1  pint  of  water  and 
distil  over  £  gallon  of  "Anhalt" 
water.  It  is  used  for  strengthening 
weak  and  lame  limbs. 

Barege  Waters.    I.  Napoleon's  Bath. 

Boil  1|  grains  each  of  alum,  chalk,  and 

hard  soap,  3|  grains  of  salt,  20  grains 

of  carbonate  of  sodium,and  15£  grains 

i  of  potassium  sulphide  in  1£  quarts  of 


PERFUMERY,   POWDERS,  ETC. 


291 


water  until  gas  commences  to  be  de-  1  cochineal.  Pulverize  the  roots,  place 
veloped.  and  then  add  sufficient  water  i  all  the  ingredients  in  a  glass  matrass, 
for  the  whole  to  make  1  gallon  of  fluid,  pour  the  alcohol  and  rose  water  over 

This  water  is  used  as  a  bath  for  erup-  them,  and  let  them  digest  for  8  days  ; 
tions  of  the  skin.  then  strain  and  filter. 

II.  Dissolve  2  ounces  each  of  sulph-  Eau  des  Princesses.  Mix  together 
hydrate  of  sodium,  carbonate  of  sodium,  tincture  of  benzoin  4  parts,  carbonate 
and  common  salt  in  a  little  water,  and  j  of  potassium  1,  spirit  of  camphor  1, 


then  add  the  quantity  of  water  required 
for  a  bath. 

"Bretfeld"  Water  is  used  for  wash- 
ing the  skin  and  sprinkling  clothing. 
It  is  prepared  by  mixing  2  fluid 
drachms  each  of  neroli,  oil  of  bergamot, 
and  oil  of  lemon,  1  fluid  drachm  each 
of  the  oils  of  lavender  and  rosemary, 
30  grains  of  mace,  4£  grains  of  musk, 
and  7|  grains  of  ambergris  with  some 
spirit  of  wine,  allowing  the  mixture 
to  stand  for  1  month,  frequently  shak- 
ing it,  and  finally  pouring  off  the  clear 
liquid. 

Cascarilla  Water.  Distil  1  pound 
of  cascarilla  bark  with  sufficient  water 
to  produce  10  pounds  of  liquid. 

Creole  Water.  Pour  1  pint  of  French 
brandy  of  36°  over  4i  ounces  of  orris 
root  cut  up  in  small  pieces.  Let  the 
whole  stand,  with  frequent  stirring, 
for  14  days,  and  then  filter.  Add  to 
the  filtrate  i  fluid  ounce  of  oil  of 
orange  blossoms,  i  fluid  ounce  of  oil  of 
geranium,  and  1  quart  of  French 
brandy.  Distil  the  mixture  and  add 
simple  cumarin  essence  to  the  distillate. 

Eau  Athenienne.  Hoffmann's  life 
balsam,  eau  de  Cologne,  essence  of 
orris  root,  each  200  parts,  essence  of 
musk  and  essence  of  ambergris  each  1, 
and  glycerine  150. 

Eau  de  V Imperatrice.  Dissolve  15 
drops  each  of  cedar  oil  and  oil  of  ber- 
gamot in  1  fluid  ounce  of  rectified  spirit 
of  wine,  add  J  ounce  of  hydrochlorate 
of  ammonia,  1  ounce  of  basic  carbonate 
of  potassium,  and  13  fluid  ounces  of 
eau  de  Cologne.  Mix  the  whole  with 
i  pint  of  orange  blossom  water  and 
distil  over  1  quart  of  liquid. 

Eau  des  Odalisques.  Take  1  gallon 
of  alcohol  of  32°,  1  quart  of  rose  water, 
4  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  U  ounces 
of  storax,  f  'drachm  each  of  bartram 
root,  cypress  root,  galanga,  angelica 
root,  essence  of  mint,  and  dill  seed,  £ 
ounce  each  of  liquid  Peruvian  balsam 


tincture  of  musk  i,  eau  de  Cologne 
260,  and  water  60.  The  preparation, 
after  having  stood  for  4  weeks,  is  ready 
for  use. 

English  Honey  Water.  Pour  48 
parts  of  rectified  spirit  over  3  parts  of 
rentifalious  rose  leaves  cut  up,  i  of 
orange  blossoms,  and  a  few  rinds  of 
lemons  cut  up.  Then  pound  fine  in  a 
mortar  ii5  part  of  ambergris,  ib  part 
of  musk,  with  an  addition  of  a  little 
sugar.  To  this  mixture  add  ^r  part  of 
pulverized  cloves,  i  part  of  coriander 
seed  pulverized,  and  i  part  of  vanilla 
bean  cut  up  in  small  pieces.  After 
adding  these  to  the  ambergris  and  the 
musk  the  whole  is  pounded  again,  and 
li  parts  of  fine  honey  are  at  the  same 
time  incorporated  with  them  by  rub- 
bing. The  whole  is  then  mixed  with 
the  spirit  of  wine,  the  mortar  and  pes- 
tle washed  off  with  6  parts  of  good  rose 
water,  and  this  added  to  the  rest.  The 
mixture  is  digested  for  3  days,  and 
then  distilled  in  the  water-bath. 

Florida  Water.  This  cosmetic,  much 
in  demand  in  America,  is  prepared  ac- 
cording to  the  following  receipts :  I. 
Oil  of  bergamot  4  ounces,  oil  of  lemon 
6  ounces,  oil  of  lavender  1  ounce,  oil  of 
cloves  6  drachms,  alcohol  3£  gallons, 
water  6  pints.  The  oils  are  first  dis- 
solved in  the  alcohol  and  the  solution 
allowed  to  stand  for  some  time,  and 
finally  the  water  is  added,  and  the 
whole  filtered. 

II.  Oil  of  bergamot  8  ounces,  neroli 
4  ounces,  oil  of  lavender  3  ounces,  oil 
of  cloves  1^  ounces,  oil  of  cinnamon  J 
ounce,  tincture  of  iris  i  pint,  tincture 
of  Peruvian  balsam  i  pint,  alcohol  4 
gallons,  water  6  pints.  It  is  prepared 
in  the  same  manner  as  No.  I. 

Held's  Cosmetic  Washes.  I.  Dis^ 
solve  15  grains  of  Venetian  borax  in  \ 
fluid  ounce  each  of  rose  water  sind 
orange  blossom  water.  This  preparation 
is  used  to  remove  pimples  and  other 


and  dry  Peruvian  balsam,  J  drachm  j  purities  of  the  skin.    Moisten  the  places 
of  the  finest  cinnamon,  and  30  grains  of  I  4  or  5  times  daily. 


292 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


II.  Mix  7  fluid  ounces  of  orange  blos- 
som water,  3i  fluid  ounces  of  eau  de 
Cologne,  and  i  fluid  ounce  of  tincture 
of  benzoine.  Pour  1  or  2  spoonfuls  of 
it  upon  a  moist  sponge  or  flannel  cloth 
and  wash  the  skin  with  it. 

Kummerfeldt  Water.  Rub  together 
in  a  porcelain  mortar  £  ounce  of  flowers 
of  sulphur,  1  fluid  ounce  of  spirit  of  cam- 
phor, and  If  fluid  ounces  of  spirit  of  lav- 
ender, and  add  If  fluid  ounces  of  glycer- 
ine. Pour  the  mixture  into  a  glass  flask 
and  mix  it  with  2i  fluid  ounces  of  eau  de 
Cologne  and  1  quart  of  distilled  water. 
Shake  the  liquid  thoroughly  before 
using  it. 

COSMETIC  POWDERS,  ROUGES,  ETC. 
Bran  of  Almonds.  Convert  3  parts 
of  sweet  almonds  pealed  into  an  emul- 
sion with  4^  parts  of  water,  press  out 
thoroughly,  and  dry  the  residue.  When 
entirely  dry  rub  it  to  a  fine  powder,  and 
mix  it  with  f  part  of  pulverized  orris 
root. 

Cosmetic  Wash  Powder.  Mix  400 
parts  of  pulverized  Castile  soap,  33  of 
dry  carbonate  of  sodium,  133  of  orris  root, 
200  of  bran  of  almonds,  3  of  oil  ot  ber- 
gamot,  1  of  oil  of  lemon,  and  £  of  oil  of 
cloves.  A  small  quantity  of  this  pow- 
der added  to  water  gives  to  it  a  lather 
of  an  agreeable  odor  which  cleanses 
and  softens  the  skin. 

Flour  of  Almonds.  Mix  500  parts 
of  crushed  almonds,  a  like  quantity  of 
wheat  flour,  125  of  pulverized  orris 
root,  16.5  of  oil  of  limes,  and  1  of  oil  of 
bitter  almonds. 

Ifeld's  Washing  Powder  for  the 
Hands.  Mix  intimately  fine  wheat 
flour  500  parts,  ordinary  pulverized 
soap  125,  finely  pulverized  orris  root  33, 
oil  of  bergamot  2£,  and  keep  this  mixt- 
ure in  a  well-closed  jar. 

In  using  it  take  1  or  2  spoonfuls  of 
the  powder,  mix  it  to  a  thin  paste  with 
water,  and  rub  the  hands  with  this  for 
some  time,  then  wash  them  in  clean 
water  and  dry  them  thoroughly. 

Oriental  Rouge.  Stir  finely  pulver- 
ized orris  root  into  water  and  strain  it 
several  times  through  fine  linen.  The 
powder  remaining  in  the  linen  is  dried 
and  preserved  in  a  glass  jar.  In  using 
the  powder  apply  a  little  of  it  to  the 
part  to  be  rouged  and  rub  it  in  with 
•the  hand  for  a  few  minutes.  The  skin 
•  viM  become  red  during  the  process 


accompanied  with  a  burning  sensation, 
but  this  ceases  in  a  short  time.  The 
color  lasts  for  several  days. 

Paris  Powder  for  Beautifying  the 
Complexion.  Steep  a  quantity  of  rice 
in  pure  clean  water.  Change  the  water 
every  day  for  14  days  until  the  rice  is 
so  soft  that  it  can  be  easily  crushed. 
Then  pour  off  all  the  water  and  stir  the 
rice  into  a  white,  milky  fluid.  Strain 
this  through  a  hair  sieve  or  a  coarse 
cloth,  let  the  fluid  settle  and  dry  the 
fine  flour  gained  in  this  manner,  and 
finally  mix  it  with  some  pulverized 
soda. 

Rouge.  Sixteen  grains  of  carmine 
and  1  drachm  of  carbonate  of  mag- 
nesium. 

Vinaigre  Rouge.  Digest  for  14  days 
3  drachms  of  cochineal,  a  like  quantity 
of  carmine  lake,  6  fluid  drachms  of 
alcohol,  and  1  pint  of  vinegar  perfumed 
by  oil  of  lavender. 

White  or  Pearl  Powder.  One  ounce 
of  oxide  of  zinc,  8J  ounces  of  rice  flour 
or  starch,  and  3  drops  of  rose  oil. 

Augustin's  Cosmetic  Wash.  Mix  9 
fluid  ounces  of  rose  water,  J  ounce  of 
salt  of  tartar,  and  i  fluid  ounce  of  tinct- 
ure of  benzoin.  The  mixture  is  used 
as  a  hair  wash. 

Copland's  Aqua  Cosmetica.  Mix  3i 
fluid  ounces  of  emulsion  of  bitter  al- 
monds, |  pint  each  of  rose  water  and 
orange  flower  water,  1  drachm  of  borax, 
and  2  fluid  drachms  of  tincture  of  ben- 
zoine. The  preparation  is  used  as  a 
wash  for  the  skin. 

Flacon  Generateur  Universel  des 
Cheveux  de  Madame  S.  A.  Allen  con- 
sists of  precipitate  of  sulphur  1.69  per 
cent.,  pulverized  cinnamon  0.20  per 
cent.,  glycerine  32  per  cent.,  acetate  of 
lead  crystallized  2.65  per  cent.,  water 
63.46  per  cent,  perfumed  with  nitro- 
benzol.  The  acetate  of  lead  and  sul- 
phur are  first  rubbed  together,  the  pow- 
dered cinnamon  is  then  added,  and 
finally  the  glycerine  and  water,  and 
the  whole  filtered  through  gauze. 

FUMIGATING  ARTICLES.  Black 
Fumigating  Paslils.  Two  and  three- 
quarter  pounds  of  willow  charcoal  finely 
pulverized,  3£  ounces  of  pulverized 
benzoin,  If  ounces  each  of  powdered 
storax  and  liquid  storax,  i  ounce  each 
of  pulverized  cloves,  cinnamon,  and 
Peruvian  balsam,  1J  grains  of  musk,  1 


PERFUMERY,  POWDERS,  ETC. 


293 


fluid  drachm  of  oil  of  lemon,  i  fluid  I  of  wine,  16.5  parts  of  benzoic  acid,  1  .5 
drachm  each  of  oil  of  bergumot  and  oil  j  parts  each  of  oils  of  thyme  and  cumin, 
of  cloves  are  mixed  with  sufficient  and  66.5  parts  of  oil  of  bergarnot. 


starch  paste  to  form  a  half-dry,  plastic 
mass,  which  is  shaped  into  little  cones 
and  dried. 

Fumigation  with  Chlorine.  Mix  125 
parts  of  sulphuric  acid  in  a  flask  with 
37.")  parts  of  water.  Then  mix  166.5 
parts  of  dry  common  salt  with  66.5 
parts  of  pyrolusite  finely  pulverized. 
Bring  this  mixture  into  the  dilute  sul- 
phuric acid,  and  place  the  open  bottle 
in  the  room  to  be  fumigated. 

Fumigating  Essence.  Alcohol  600 
parts,  benzoin  125  parts,  infusion  of 


Imperial  Fumigating  Powder.  Five 
hundred  parts  of  orris  root  coarsely  pow- 
dered, 250  parts  of  rose  wood,  a  like 
quantity  of  cascarilla  bark,  66.5  parts  of 
cassia,  750  parts  of  blue  cornflowers,  1500 
parts  of  rose  leaves,  2000  parts  of  lv. ven- 
der flowers,  12  parts  of  oil  of  thyme,  90 
parts  each  of  oils  of  bergamotand  lemon, 
60  parts  of  oil  of  lavender,  and  5  parts 
of  liquid  storax. 

Indian  or  Yellow  Fumigating  Past  Us. 
Fivehundred  parts  of  pulverized  sanders 
wood,  750  parts  of  benzoin,  125  parts 


and 


storax  400  parts,  tolu  balsam  100  parts,  j  of  tolu  balsam,  5  parts  each  of  oil  of 
Peruvian  balsam  4  parts,  acetic  acid  2    sandal   wood,    cinnamon,  and    cloves, 
parts,  oils  of  bergamot,  lavender,  and 
cloves  each  5  parts,  and  infusion  of  nut- 
megs 3  parts. 

Fumigating  Pastils.  The  solution 
of  gnm-tragacanth  used  as  an  aggluti- 
nant  is  prepared  by  pouring  60  parts 
of  warm  water  over  10  of  gum-traga- 
canth,  letting  it  stand  for  a  few  days, 
and  then  pressing  or  squeezing  through 
a  coarse  cloth.  The  pulverized  char- 
coal used  in  preparing  the  pastils  must 
be  thoroughly  calcined  and  contain  no 
ill-smelling  constituents. 

I.  Convert  the  following  ingredients 
into  a  fine  powder :  Charcoal  60  parts, 
benzoin  2,  storax  2,  frankincense  and 
mastic  each  4,  auime  resin  1.  Mix  the 
powders  intimately  with  the  charcoal 


and  then  stir  them  into  a  paste  with 
the  necessary  quantity  of  solution  of 
gum-tragacanth. 

II.  Pulverize  and  mix:  Charcoal  2, 
cascarilla  bark  and  sandarae  each  4, 
anime  resin  and  liquid  storax  each  1, 
cinnamon  and  cloves  each  2,  musk  and 
ambergris  each  2s  part,  with  sufficient 
solution  of  gura-tragacanth,  and  form 
the  paste  into  cones. 

III.  Very  cheap  fumigating  pastils 
are  obtained  by  pulverizing  and  mix- 
ing :  Charcoal  6  parts,  frankincense  £, 
juniper  wood  i,  and  liquid  storax  4. 
The  mixture  is  formed  into  a  paste  with 
starch  paste  and  cones  made  of  this. 

Fumigating  Spirit.  I.  Mix  500  parts 
of  eau  de  Cologne,  66V  parts  of  tincture 
of  benzoin,  334  parts  of  tincture  of 
vanilla,  and  f  part  each  of  oils  of 
thyme,  mint,  and  nutmeg. 

II.  Mix  500  parts  of  rectified  spirit 


cinnamon, 

5  parts  of  nitrate  of  potassium. 
The  ingredients  are  converted  with 
solution  of  gum-tragacanth  into  a  paste, 
which  is  formed  into  cones. 

Medicated  Fumigating  Pastils.  Iodine 
Pastils.  Iodine  77  parts,  pulverized 
althea  600,  saltpetre  525.  Rub  the 
iodine  to  a  fine  powder  with  alcohol, 
add  the  althea  and  saltpetre,  and  make 
the  compound  with  water  into  paste 
from  which  conical  pastils  are  formed, 
each  containing  about  4£  grains  of 
iodine.  Sulphur  pastils  are  made  in 
the  same  manner. 

Stramonium  Pastils.  Pulverized 
stramonium  leaves  and  saltpetre  each 
600  parts,  and  pulverized  althea  750. 
The  same  proportions  are  used  for 
digitalis  and  belladonna  pastils. 

Tar  Pastils.  Tar  450  parts,  salt- 
petre and  pulverized  althea  each  525 
parts.  The  powder  is  mixed  and  formed 
into  paste  without  the  use  of  water. 

Opium  Pastils.  Pulverized  althea 
and  saltpetre  each  600  parts,  pulverized 
opium  39.  Mix  the  powders  into  a 
paste  with  water  and  form  into  pastils. 

Oriental  Fumigating  Balsam.  Cloves, 
cascarilla  bark,  amomum  seeds,  olib- 
anum  each  i  ounce,  orris  root,  benzoin, 
and  cinnamon  each  2i  ounces,  nutmeg 
and  Peruvian  balsam  each  1  ounce, 
musk,  oils  of  bergamot  and  lavender 
each  12  grains,  oils  of  fennel  and  rose- 
mary each  10  drops,  oil  of  orange 
flowers  20  drops,  and  1  pint  of  rectified 
spirit  of  wine  free  from  fusel  oil  and  of 
30°  Beaume.  Powder  and  mix  the  in- 
gredients, let  them  digest  for  8  days  in 
a  warm  place,  shaking  the  vessel  sev- 


294 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


eral  times  each  day.  Then  separate 
the  fluid  from  the  sediment,  pour  i  pint 
of  spirit  of  wine  upon  the  latter,  let  it 

rin  stand  for  a  few  days,  then  pour 
the  clear  fluid  and  add  it  to  the 
first.  Comminute  the  solid  residue  and 
place  it  in  a  glass,  weigh  and  pour  the 
fluid  into  the  glass  and  let  it  stand  in 
the  sun,  or  in  winter  near  a  warm 
stove,  shaking  it  frequently.  Filter 
the  resulting  product  immediately  after 
it  has  been  drawn  off. 

Paris  Pastils.  Mix  125  parts  each 
of  benzoin  and  cascarilla  bark,  41.5 
parts  of  myrrh,  750  parts  of  wood  char- 
coal, 25  parts  each  of  oils  of  nutmeg 
and  cloves,  and  66.5  parts  of  saltpetre, 
and  the  necesvsary  quantity  of  solution 
of  gum-tragacanth. 

Perfumed  Pastils.  Mix  500  parts  of 
wood  charcoal  powder,  375  parts  of 
benzoin,  125  parts  each  of  tolu  balsam, 
vanilla  beans,  and  cloves,  3  parts  each 
of  oil  of  sandal  wood  and  neroli,  50 
parts  of  saltpetre,  and  the  necessary 
quantity  of  solution  of  gum-tragacanth. 

White  Fumigating  Pastils.  Pulver- 
ized lime  wood  8  parts,  benzoin  and 
mastic  each  1,  and  white  Peruvian 
balsam  i.  Mix  with  as  much  solution 
of  gum-tragacanth  as  required. 


PHARMACEUTICAL  PREPARATIONS. 

Artificial  Carlsbad  Water.  Take  6 
grains  of  calcium  chloride,  1  drop  of 
tincture  of  sesqui-chloride  of  iron,  li 
drachms  of  sodium  sulphate,  1  drachm 
of  sodium  carbonate,  7i  grains  of  sodium 
chloride,  and  1  pint  of  water  charged 
with  carbonic  acid. 

Artificial  Koumiss.  Mix  100  parts 
of  condensed  milk  with  1000  of  water ; 
add  1  part  of  lactic  acid,  i  of  citric  acid, 
and  15  of  best  Jamaica  rum.  Saturate 
the  mixture  with  carbonic  acid,  fill  it 
in  bottles,  and  let  them  stand  first  for  a 
few  days  in  a  moderately  warm  room 
and  then  keep  them  in  the  cellar. 

Balm  of  Gilead.  Forty  parts  of  com- 
pound tincture  of  cardamons  and  10 
parts  of  tincture  of  cantharides. 

Balsam  of  Horehound  for  Colds  and 
Asthma.  Make  an  infusion  of  equal 
quantities  of  licorice  root  and  horehound 
leaves,  1J  pints  of  hot  water,  and  add 
i  ounce  each  of  laudanum,  camphor, 


flowers  of  benzoine,  squills,  and  anise- 
seed  oil,  and  1£  pounds  of  honey. 

Bitter  Elixir.  Chop  up:  Zedoary 
root  1^  drachms,  rhubarb  root  J  ounce, 
gentian  root  i  ounce,  oriental  saffron 
30  grains,  Barbadoes  aloes  1  ounce, 
myrrh  i  ounce,  larch-agaric  1£  drachms, 
and  common  valerian  i  ounce.  Place 
the  ingredients  in  a  suitable  glass  flask 
and  pour  3  pints  of  spirit  of  wine  over 
them.  Let  them  digest  for  8  days  in  a 
moderate  heat,  then  strain  through  a 
cloth  and  filter.  This  elixir  can  be 
highly  recommended. 

Aland's  Female  Pills.  Sulphate  of 
iron  10  parts,  salt  of  tartar,  powdered 
licorice,  and  gum-tragacanth  of  each  20 
parts.  Make  into  pills  with  extract  of 
gentian. 

Blistering  Ointment,  a  cure  for 
spavin,  old  swellings  of  the  hough, 
bony  excrescences,  etc.,  in  horses,  con- 
sists of  li  drachms  of  pulverized  can- 
tharides, 40  grains  of  euphorbium,  f 
ounce  of  elemi  salve,  20  drops  each  of 
oils  of  juniper,  rosemary,  and  turpen- 
tine. 

Blume's  Remedy  for  Spavin,  etc.,  con- 
sists of  arsenic  12  percent.,  bromide  of 
potassium  10  per  cent.,  opium  5  per 
cent.,  animal  charcoal  1  per  cent.,  bay- 
oil  20  per  cent.,  and  cantharides  salve 
53  per  cent. 

Camphor  Ice.  Melt  together  4  parts 
of  spermaceti  and  30  parts  of  oil  of 
almonds  and  add  4  parts  of  pulverized 
camphor. 

Cheltenham  Salts.  Take  30  parts  of 
Glauber's  salt,  24  parts  each  or  Epsom 
salt  and  common  salt,  and  i  part  of  sul- 
phate of  iron.  Dry  each  powder  sepa- 
rately, and  then  mix  them.  A  solution 
of  this  mixture  gives  a  good  artificial 
Cheltenham  water.  It  is  a  tonic  and 
mild  purgative. 

Cod-liver  Oil  and  Iodide  of  Iron. 
Dissolve  by  frequent  stirring  or  shak- 
ing for  a  few  days  1.25  parts  of  iodine 
in  98.5  of  cod-liver  oil.  The  oil  is  then 
poured  in  a  vessel  hermetically  closed, 
and  shaken  with  2.5  parts  of  pulverized 
iron  for  about  4  hours  until  it  has  as- 
sumed a  purple-violet  color,  and  a  test 
with  solution  of  iodide  of  potash  and 
starch  shows  no  more  free  iodine. 
The  preparation,  after  having  stood  Tor 
24  hours,  is  allowed  to  settle  and  filled 
in  well-closed  bottles  of  yellow  glass 


PHARMACEUTICAL  PREPARATIONS. 


295 


large  enough  to  hold  the  doses  required 
for  5  days,  since  the  air  exerts  no  per- 
ceptible influence  upon  it  in  this  time. 
The  preparation  has  a  purple-violet 
color,  a  specific  gravity  of  0.937  to  0.940 
at  60°  F.,  and  should  contain  1.23  per 
cent,  of  iodine  and  0.27  per  cent,  of 
iron. 

Compound  Storax  Pills,  for  allaying 
pain  in  cases  of  chronic  cough,  consist 
of  prepared  storax  6  parts,  pulverized 
opium  and  saffron  each  2  parts.  Make 
into  pills  of  4}  grains.  Dose :  1  to  2 
pills. 

Dolorifuqc  Elixir  Anti-Odontal- 
gique.  This  cure  for  toothache  is  com- 
posed of  a  mixture  of  2  parts  of  acetic 
ether  and  1  part  each  of  chloroform  and 
creosote. 

Edinburgh  Stomachic  Elixir.  Chop 
up  and  pound  66  parts  of  gentian  root, 
33  parts  of  orange  rind  freed  from  the 
white  skin,  5  parts  of  white  cinnamon, 
and  2  parts  of  cochineal.  Place  the 
ingredients  in  a  suitable  glass  flask, 
pour  1250  parts  of  rectified  spirit  of 
wine  over  them,  let  them  digest  for  4 
days,  then  strain  the  liquid  through  a 
cloth  and  filter. 

Glycerine  Collodion  is  prepared  by 
dissolving  2  parts  of  glycerine  in  100 
of  collodion. 

English  Peppermint  Lozenges.  To 
give  to  peppermint  lozenges  the  pecu- 
liar sharp  and  agreeably  pungent  taste 
of  the  .English  product  the  following 
receipt  may  be  highly  recommended  : 
Dissolve  14  parts  of  white  gelatine  in  150 
of  water  and  intimately  mix  with  it 
4000  parts  of  pulverized  loaf  sugar,  300 
of  starch,  1  of  pulverized  ginger,  and 
20  of  the  oil  of  peppermint,  into  a 
paste  dry  enough  not  to  stick  to  the 
board  upon  which  it  is  worked.  Form 
into  30  grain  lozenges.  They  are  as 
white  as  chalk,  and  require  no  sprink- 
ling with  flour. 

Erasing  Powder.  Mix  thoroughly  : 
Equal  parts  of  alum,  amber,  sulphur, 
and  saltpetre,  and  keep  the  mixture  in 
a  well-closed  jar.  By  sprinkling  some 
of  the  powder  upon  an  ink-stain  or  re- 
cently written  characters,  and  rubbing 
with  a  white  linen  rag,  the  stain  or 
characters  will  at  once  disappear  from 
the  paper. 

If  off' s  Malt  Beer.  To  the  beer 
brewed  to  the  consistency  of  thin  syrup 


add  the  following  ingredients :  Com- 
minute and  boil  in  3  gallons  of  water 
1  pound  althea  root,  i  pound  coriander 
seed,  i  badiane  seed,  and  i  pound 
grains  of  paradise  ;  cool,  press  out  and 
filter  the  liquor.  Of  this  1  quart  is 
added  to  every  7i  gallons  of  beer, 
besides  the  necessary  quantity  of  sugar 
syrup,  or  1  quart  of  glycerine,  a  few 
drops  of  oil  of  lemon,  1  drop  of  orange 
oil,  and  1  pint  of  beer  color. 

Improved  Collodion  Styptic.  Collo- 
dion 100  parts,  carbolic  acid  10,  tannin 
5,  and  benzoic  acid  5.  This  prepara- 
tion has  a  dark-brown  color,  leaves, 
after  evaporation,  a  tightly  adhering 
film,  coagulates  the  blood  instantane- 
ously to  a  crusty  mass,  and  the  wound 
under  this  covering  heals  in  a  very 
short  time. 

lodoform.      According    to  Vulpius, 

Oil  of 

Turpentine  dissolves  4  per  cent,  of  iodoform. 


Lavender 

Cloves 

Lemons 

Rosemary 

Casaia 


Petroleum  ether  dissolves  1  per  cent, 
and  benzole  li  per  cent,  of  iodoform, 
both  solutions  assuming  a  rose  color  in 
a  short  time. 

lodoform  Pencils.  Mechanical  mixt- 
ures of  finely  powdered  iodoform  with 
gelatine  and  glycerine,  which  in  the 
form  of  cylindrical  elastic  pencils  are 
introduced  into  wounds,  have  been  in 
use  for  some  time.  Recently  a  demand 
has  sprung  up  for  such  pencils  contain- 
ing a  large  percentage  of  iodoform, 
and  Vulpius  has,  by  the  following 
process,  succeeded  in  incorporating  as 
much  as  50  per  cent.  Dissolve  on  a 
water-bath  15  parts  of  the  best  gelatine 
in  50  parts  of  water  and  7.5  parts  of 
glycerine,  and  evaporate  the  solution 
to*54  parts ;  then  intimately  mix  with 
it  27  parts  of  iodoform  rubbed  as  fine 
as  possible,  and  pour  the  paste  into  a 
moderately  heated  mould,  which  to  ac- 
celerate congelation,  and  to  prevent  the 
heavy  iodoform  powder  from  sinking  to 
the  bottom,  is  immediately  placed  in 
ice-water.  The  congealed  cylinders  are 
finally  dried  to  §  of  their*  weight  by 
being  placed  in  a  dry  ing- room. 

Aromatic  Balsam.      Mix  in  a  por- 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


celain  mortar  33  parts  of  pressed  nut- 
meg oil,  4  parts  each  of  oils  of  cloves 
and  lavender,  1.33  parts  of  oil  of 
amber,  and  6  parts  of  black  Peruvian 
balsam.  This  balsam  is  an  excellent 
remedy  for  colic  in  children,  applied 
by  rubbing  it  on  the  stomach. 

Locatelli's  Balsam  for  Wounds  and 
Ulcers.  Melt  in  a  copper  pan  500  parts 
of  yellow  wax,  then  add  750  parts  of  olive 
oil  and  500  parts  of  Venetian  turpen- 
tine. Take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and 
then  add  66  parts  of  black  Peruvian 
balsam  and  33  parts  of  pulverized  red 
sanders  wood. 

Soap  Balsam  for  Sprains.  I.  Pul- 
verize in  a  mortar  25  parts  of  Vene- 
tian soap,  and  add  gradually  during 
the  operation  75  parts  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine. Form  a  paste  of  the  mixture 
and  keep  it  for  future  use. 

11.  To  Prepare  the  Balsam,  dissolve 
the  paste  in  150  parts  of  rectified 
spirit  of  wine  and  filter  the  solution. 

Gelatine  Capsules  for  Medicinal 
Purposes.  Dissolve  8  parts  of  gelatine, 
2  of  sugar,  and  1  of  gum-Arabic  in  8  of 
water  in  a  water-bath.  Dip  iron  pins, 
the  lower  ends  of  which  are  pear- 
shaped  and  slightly  oiled,  into  the 
lukewarm  solution.  The  thin  gelatine 
films  formed  on  the  iron  pins  when 
congealed  are  detached  and  placed  in  a 
hole  of  a  corresponding  size  in  wooden 
forms,  and  allowed  to  dry.  The  cap- 
sules, when  thoroughly  dry,  are  filled 
with  the  respective  medicines,  and 
closed  with  a  drop  of  the  same  solution. 

English  Plaster.  Prepare  a  concen- 
trated solution  of  gelatine  in  warm 
water,  and  compound  it  with  pure  al- 
cohol. Stretch  silk  taffeta  of  a  flesh 
or  black  color  in  a  frame,  and  apply  3 
coats  of  the  solution,  allowing  1  coat 
to  dry  thoroughly  before  laying  on 
the  next.  When  the  last  coat  is  dry, 
give  the  whole  a  coat  of  tincture  of 
Peruvian  balsam. 

Malt  Extract.  Allow  a  mixture  of 
equal  parts  of  crushed  malt  and  water 
to  stand  for  3  hours,  add  4  parts  of 
warm  water,  and  keep  the  mixture  for 
1  hour  at  a  temperature  of  150°  F. 
The  compound  is  then  boiled  up  once, 
pressed,  filtered,  and  evaporated  as 
quickly  as  possible. 

Malt  Extract  with  Iron.  Dissolve  2 
parts  of  phosphate  of  iron  with  some 


citrate  of  ammonium  in  3  parts  of  dis- 
tilled water,  and  mix  the  solution  with 
95  parts  of  malt  extract. 

Malt  Extract  witk  Lime.  Two  parts 
of  calcium  hypophosphite  and  100  of 
malt  extract. 

Malt  Extract  and  Quinine.  One 
part  of  neutral  quimotannic  acid  and 
100  of  malt  extract. 

Malt  Extract  and  Pepsin.  Five 
parts  of  German  pepsin  and  95  of  malt 
extract. 

Malt  Extract  and  Iodide  of  Iron. 
Five  parts  of  iodide  of  iron  and  95  of 
malt  extract. 

Neutral  Citrate  of  Magnesium.  Cor- 
nelis  gives  the  following  method  of  pre- 
paring citrate  of  magnesium  free  from 
impurities  and  injurious  excess  of  citric 
acid,  which  have  been  complained  of 
as  existing  in  the  ordinary  commercial 
article.  Dissolve  100  parts  of  citric 
acid  in  300  parts  of  boiling  distilled 
water,  saturate  the  solution  with  about 
70  parts  of  basic  carbonate  of  magne- 
sium, leaving  a  slight  excess  of  acid, 
filter  the  warm  solution  and  place  it  in 
a  cool  place,  where  in  24  hours  it  con- 
geals to  a  cheese-like  mass.  This, 
consisting  of  citrate  of  magnesium  with 
14  equivalents  of  water,  is  pressed 
and  the  cake  remaining  in  the  cloth 
broken  up  in  small  pieces,  which 
are  dried  at  70°  to  75°  F.  and  pul- 
verized. The  product  is  a  tasteless, 
neutral  powder  of  a  dull  white  color, 
and  soluble  in  double  its  weight  of 
boiling  water ;  100  parts  of  it  consist 
of  46  per  cent,  of  citric  acid,  17  per 
cent,  of  oxide  of  magnesium,  and  37  per 
cent,  of  water. 

Neutralizing  the  Taste  of  Cod-liver 
Oil.  Mix  with  each  table-spoonful  of 
oil  12  drops  of  the  following  compound  : 
Two  ounces  of  essence  of  lemon,  1  ounce 
of  sulphuric  ether,  £  ounce  each  of  the 
essential  oils  of  caraway,  peppermint, 
and  cloves. 

New  American  Patent  Medicines. 
Phosphorole  is  a  solution  of  0.6  per  cent, 
of  phosphorus  in  cod-liver  oil,  arid  is 
recommended  in  phthisis.  Hydroleine, 
another  remedy  for  the  same  disease, 
consists  of  soda  J  grain,  boracic  acid  | 
grain,  water  35  drops,  pancreatine  5 
grains,  hyocholic  acid  (from  hog-blad- 
der) &  grain,  and  cod-liver  oil  80  drops. 
Dose :  2  tea-spoonfuls. 


PHARMACEUTICAL  PREPARATIONS. 


297 


Fluid  Hydrastis  is  an  alcoholic  ex- 
tract of  Hydrastis  canadensis  inisciable 
with  water,  syrup,  and  glycerine. 

Lacto-pepsin  is  recommended  as  a 
universal  remedy  for  dyspepsia  and 
other  diseases  of  the  stomach.  It  con- 
sists of:  Milk  sugar  40  ounces,  pepsin 
8  ounces,  pancreatine  6  ounces,  vege- 
table ptyalin  (diastase)  4  drachms, 
lactic  acid  5  drachms,  and  hydrochloric 
acid  5  drachms. 

Thermaline  is  a  mixture  of  cinchona 
alkaloids  and  extract  of  eucalyptus, 
and  is  claimed  to  be  much  superior  to 
all  other  fever  remedies,  quinine  in- 
cluded. 

Oleum  Aromaticum  Compostium 
(Spice  Oil  for  Kitchen  Use).  Oil  of 
cloves  1  part,  oil  of  mace  3.5,  oil  of  cin- 
namon 5,  essential  oil  of  bitter  almonds 
2.5,  oil  of  lemon  30,  and  absolute  alco- 
hol 50.  Mix. 

Opodeldoc.  Soap  free  from  stearine 
12  parts,  camphor  8,  spirits  of  wine 
320,  oil  of  thyme  1,  oil  of  rosemary  2, 
and  spirit  of  ammonia  16. 

Pepsin  Wine  with  Malt.  Prof.  Ernst 
Schmidt,,  of  Lille,  France,  furnishes  the 
following  receipt:  Pepsin  extract  and 
maltine  extract  each  5i  parts,  chlo- 
ride of  sodium  5,  good  cognac  45,  old 
Chablis  wine  400,  vin  de  Grenache  de 
Gollivure  500.  By  pepsin  extract  the 
author  means  a  solution  of  pepsin  pre- 
pared in  conformity  with  the  directions 
given  in  the  "Pharmacopoeia,"  and 
evaporated  to  the  consistency  of  thick 
extract,  and  to  which  10  per  cent,  of 
glycerine  has  been  added.  The  malt- 
ine extract  is  prepared  by  pouring 
over  crushed  malt  10  times  its  weight 
of  cold  water,  macerating  it  for  24 
hours,  and  straining  and  pressing. 
Strong  alcohol  is  added  to  the  fluid, 
causing  a  copious  precipitate  to  be 
formed,  from  which  the  fluid  is  after 
24  hours  filtered  off,  and  fresh  alcohol 
added  to  it.  This  is  again  allowed  to 
settle  for  24  hours,  when  the  fluid  is 
carefully  poured  off,  the  result  being  a 
shiny  precipitate  and  a  clear  liquid. 
The  latter  is  distilled  to  regain  the 
alcohol,  while  the  precipitate  is  evap* 
orated  to  the  consistency  of  a  thick  ex- 
tract, and  then  compounded  with  10 
per  cent,  of  glycerine. 

Plastic  Bandage.  Tissues  or  text- 
urea  of  any  material  are  saturated 


with  a  solution  of  asphaltum  with  an 
alternate  addition  of  rosin  and  coal  tar, 
or  gallipot  and  pitch,  and  eventually 
lime.  When  the  finished  and  hard 
bandage  is  to  be  used  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  soak  it  in  hot  water  and  apply 
it .  to  the  broken  limb,  where  it  con- 
geals in  a  short  time. 

Plasters.  Simple  Lead  Plaster.  Boil 
equal  quantities  of  elutriated  litharge 
and  of  olive  oil  in  a  copper  pan  over  a 
moderate  fire,  stirring  constantly,  and 
adding  occasionally  a  few  drops  of 
water  until  the  plaster  has  assumed  the 
necessary  consistency. 

Compound  Lead  Plaster.  Melt  to- 
gether 200  parts  of  simple  lead  plaster 
and  25  parts  of  yellow  wax.  In  the 
meanwhile  dissolve  on  the  water-bath 
13  parts  each  of  purified  gum  am- 
moniac and  purified  galbanum  in  13 
parts  of  ordinary  turpentine,  and  mix 
the  solution  intimately  with  the  above 
compound. 

Preparation  of  SticJcing  Plaster. 
Boil  in  a  copper  pan  175  parts  of  pul- 
verized litharge  and  300  parts  of  olive 
oil,  adding  occasionally  a  few  drops  of 
water,  to  the  consistency  of  plaster, 
which  is  stirred  at  a  gentle  heat  until 
all  the  water  has  been  evaporated  and 
the  mass  has  a  grayish-white  color. 
Remove  it  from  the  fire,  and,  while 
yet  warm,  add  a  mixture  of  200  parts 
of  rosin  and  400  parts  of  common  tur- 
pentine. Then  evaporate,  with  con- 
stant stirring,  until  it  ceases  to  foam, 
cool  it  and  break  into  pieces  or  mould 
into  sticks. 

New  Sticking  Plaster  by  Dr.  A.  new- 
son.  Dissolve  glue  in  boiling  water. 
Compound  the  solution  with  25  per 
cent,  of  officinal  acetic  acid,  perfume 
with  rose  oil,  and  spread  it  upon  paper, 
gauze  or  muslin. 

Galbanum  and  Saffron  Plaster. 
Place  in  a  copper  pan  200  parts  of  sim- 
ple lead  plaster  and  66  parts  of  yellow 
wax.  Let  the  compound  cool  off  some- 
what and  then  add  200  parts  of  purified 
galbanum,  previously  dissolved  on  the 
water-bath,  in  33  parts  of  ordinary  tur- 
pentine, and  finally  20  parts  of  pul- 
verised saffron,  and  mix  the  whole 
thoroughly. 

Saffron  Plaster.  Melt  together  in  a 
copper  pan  250  parts  each  of  yellow 
wax  and  rosin,  and  strain  through  a 


298 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


cloth.  Dissolve  66  parts  each  of  gum 
ammoniac  and  purified  gal  ban  um  in 
250  parts  of  common  turpentine.  Mix 
it  with  the  above  composition,  and  stir 
in  66  parts  each  of  pulverized  saffron, 
mastic,  myrrh,  and  frankincense.  The 
result  will  be  a  yellowish  -  brown 
plaster. 

/Soap  Plaster.  Melt  in  a  porcelain 
dish  150  parts  of  simple  lead  plaster 
and  25  parts  of  yellow  wax  and  mix 
the  compound  with  10  parts  of  pul- 
verized Castile  soap. 

Powdered  Camphor.  Glycerine  is 
the  simplest  and  most  efficient  sub- 
stance to  keep  camphor  in  a  finely 
divided  state.  Mix  2  parts  of  glycerine 
in  10  parts  of  alcohol  and  triturate  it 
with  150  parts  of  camphor  to  a  fine 
powder. 

Antarthritic  Papers.  Buchner's  An- 
tarthritic  Paper.  Digest  11  parts  of 
pulverized  euphorbium,  22  parts  of 
cantharides  powder  in  234  parts  of  90 
per  cent,  alcohol.  When  thoroughly 
extracted,  compound  the  extract  with 
11  parts  of  Venetian  turpentine,  then 
immerse  fine  paper  in  the  mixture,  and 
dry  it  in  the  air. 

English  Antarthritic  Paper.  Digest 
29  parts  of  pulverized  euphorbium  and 
14.5  parts  of  pulverized  cantharides  in 
146  parts  of  alcohol  for  8  to  10  days; 
then  filter,  and  dissolve  in  the  filtrate 
58.5  parts  of  white  rosin  and  44  parts 
of  Venetian  turpentine.  Apply  three 
coats  of  the  resulting  varnish-like  solu- 
tion to  thick  letter-paper. 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 

Alcoholic  Solution  of  Gelatine  is 
easily  prepared  by  allowing  the  hard 
gelatine  to  swell  up  in  water,  then 
melting  and  finally  adding  4  to  5  times 
its  quantity  of  95  per  cent,  alcohol. 
The  solution  remains  entirely  clear, 
runs  off  like  collodion,  and  dries  far 
quicker  than  gelatine  emulsion  with  5 
per  cent,  of  alcohol,  and  it  can  be  com- 
pounded with  ammonia  to  basic  re- 
action without  injuring  its  firmness. 

According  to  Herschel,  a  mixture  of 
1  part  of  dilute  nitro-muriatic  acid  and 
48  parts  of  rectified  spirit  of  wine  dis- 
solves almost  any  quantity  of  heated 
gelatine.  Poured  over  plates  the  solu^ 


tion  dries  twice  as  quickly  as  plates 
treated  with  collodion.  Ether  and 
chloroform  compounded  with  the  above 
acid  mixture  also  dissolves  gelatine. 

Alkaline  Gelatine  Developer.  Dis- 
solve 1J  ounces  of  Nelson's  amber 
gelatine  in  2i  fluid  ounces  of  water 
over  a  water-bath,  then  add  1  fluid 
ounce  of  saturated  solution  of  caustic 
soda,  and  boil  until  the  solution  is 
thinly  fluid.  Take  1  part  of  this  solu- 
tion to  8  parts  of  solution  of  pyrogallic 
acid  in  the  proportion  of  1  to  250.  No 
bromide  of  potassium  is  required ; 
expose  for  a  very  short  time ;  an  over- 
exposure  cannot  be  remedied. 

Chloride  of  Silver  and  Gelatine 
Emulsion.  Water  1000  parts,  gelatine 
50,  nitrate  of  silver  15,  chloride  of  lime  5, 
citric  acid  5  to  10.  Dissolve  each 
chemical  by  itself  in  a  part  of  the 
water.  Then  add  to  the  gelatine  first 
the  nitrate  of  silver,  next  the  chloride  of 
lime,  and  finally  the  citric  acid.  It 
does  not  matter  should  the  emulsion 
become  red.  It  is  now  ready  for  use 
without  washing.  Coat  glass  plates 
with  the  emulsion  and  print  quite  dark 
in  the  photo-printing  frame.  The 
shades  bronze  quickly  and  the  inten- 
sity with  workable  emulsion  is  good.  In 
case  the  tones  are  a  dirty  yellow  in- 
stead of  black  the  quantity  of  citric 
acid  must  be  increased,  which  will  al- 
ways rectify  this  evil.  The  diaposi- 
tives  thus  produced  must  be  still  fur- 
ther toned,  which  is  best  done  in  a  bath 
of  cyanide  of  gold.  It  is  fixed  with  weak 
hyposulphite,  then  washed,  tanned 
with  alum,  and  finally  washed  again. 

Claudet's  Instantaneous  Positive  Pa- 
per. Float  the  paper  on  a  solution  of 
500  parts  of  distilled  water  and  20  parts 
of  corrosive  sublimate,  then  dry  it  and 
wash  with  a  solution  of  5  parts  of  ni- 
trate of  silver  in  60  parts  of  distilled 
water.  The  negative  is  exposed  to  the 
light  over  this  prepared  paper  for  2 
seconds  to  1  minute.  The  picture  is 
developed  by  immersion  in  a  bath  of  1 
part  of  sulphate  of  iron,  li  parts  of 
radical  vinegar,  and  30  parts  of  dis- 
tilled water.  The  positive  picture  is 
then  washed  and  fixed  with  sodium 
hyposulphite. 

Cleansing  Mixture  for  Glass  Plates. 
Mix  two  parts  of  alcohol,  1  of  am- 
monia, and  15  of  water. 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


299 


Cleansing  Fluid  for  Glass  Plates. 
This  is  especially  efficient  in  case  iron 
salts  have  been  used  for  the  developing 
bath.  Mix  30  parts  of  water,  7  parts 
of  hydrochloric  acid,  and  a  trace  of 
iodine.  Rub  the  plate  with  a  linen 
rag  moistened  with  the  fluid,  and  then 
polish  in  the  usual  manner. 

Clear  Caoutchouc  Solutions.  Tie  30 
parts  of  caoutchouc,  cut  up  in  small 
pieces,  in  a  small  linen  bag,  fasten  this 
to  the  cork  of  a  bottle  containing  1000 
parts  of  benzine,  in  such  manner  that 
it  floats  upon  the  surface  of  the  ben- 
zine. Allow  it  to  stand  perfectly  quiet 
for  6  to  8  days.  During  this  time  the 
soluble  portion  of  the  caoutchouc 
passes  over  into  the  benzine,  while  the 
contents  of  the  bag  swell  up  enormous- 
ly. The  resulting  solution,  which  is  as 
clear  as  water  and  thickly  fluid,  con- 
tains 1.2  to  1.5  per  cent,  of  caoutchouc. 
The  swelled  residue  retains  about  i  to 
J  of  the  benzine  used,  and  may  serve 
for  the  manufacture  of  an  ordinary 
caoutchouc  varnish. 

We  would  here  remark  that  a  solution 
of  caoutchouc  in  benzine  kept  in  half- 
full  bottles  becomes  decomposed  when 
exposed  to  light ;  that  is  to  say,  a  thick- 
ish  solution  becomes  thinly  fluid  and  is 
no  longer  available  for  photographic 
purposes.  Although  the  solution  will 
undergo  the  same  change  when  kept  in 
the  dark  it  requires  at  least  three  times 
as  long. 

Damson's  Tannin  Plates.  1.  Receipt 
for  the  Collodion  Cotton.  Sulphuric  acid 
of  1.840  specific  gravity  1000  parts, 
nitric  acid  of  1.450  specific  gravity  360 
parts,  water  240  parts,  and  cotton  50 
parts. 

2.  Collodion.  Collodion  cotton  ^  part, 
ether  of  0.725  specific  gravity  15  parts, 
alcohol  of   0.810    specific    gravity   15 
parts,  cadmium  iodide  ^  part,  cadmi- 
um bromide  A  part. 

3.  Solution  of  Tannin.  One  part  of 
tannin  dissolved  in  30  parts  of  distilled 
water. 

Developer  for  Gelatine  Plates. 
Mottu,  of  Amsterdam,  uses  the  following 
formula  for  developing  emulsion  nega- 
tives :  Saturated  solution  of  potassium 
ferricyanide  and  water  each  120  parts, 
and  pyrogallic  acid  1  part.  Before 
using  the  developer  a  few  drops  of  am- 
monia are  added  to  every  15  parts  of  it; 


the  plate  is  then  washed  and  dipped 
into  the  mixture. 

Davanne's  Intensifies  In  case  a 
plate  has  been  spoiled  it  is,  after  expos- 
ure, only  partly  developed  and  fixed 
with  solution  of  cyanide  of  potassium. 
The  plate,  after  having  been  freed  from 
the  last  traces  of  the  fixing  salt  by 
washing,  is  treated  twice  or  several 
times  with  a  solution  of  2  grains  of 
pyrogallic  acid,  1  grain  of  citric  acid,  and 
10  drops  of  radical  vinegar  in  1  fluid 
ounce  of  distilled  water,  to  which  a  few 
drops  of  a  solution  of  silver  of  15  per 
cent,  have  been  added.  It  is  next 
treated  with  the  following  fluids: 

1.  Iodine  5i  grains,  iodide  of  potas- 
sium 10  grains,  and  distilled  water  1 
fluid  ounce. 

2.  Sulphate  of  potassium  1  drachm, 
distilled  water  6  fluid  ounces. 

Solution  No.  1  is  poured  over  the 
plate  either  in  daylight  or  in  the  dark 
room,  and  allowed  to  remain  upon  it 
until  the  precipitate  is  perfectly  yellow ; 
it  is  then  rinsed  off  with  water  and  so- 
lution No.  2  poured  upon  it,  and  this 
allowed  to  remain  until  the  yellow 
color  is  changed  into  a  deep  brown. 

Developing  Solution  of  Oxalate  of 
Iron.  The  following  receipt  is  by 
H.  W.  Vogel:  a.  Neutral  oxalate  of 
potassium  9  ounces,  water  1  quart.  6. 
Sulphate  of  iron  3£  ounces,  water  10£ 
fluid  ounces,  sulphuric  acid  2  to  3 
drops.  A  supply  of  both  solutions 
should  be  kept  on  hand.  For  use  mix 
3  volumes  of  a  with  1  of  b.  Should  the 
plates  appear  clouded  add  to  4  fluid 
ounces  of  the  mixed  solutions  several 
drops  of  a  solution  of  bromide  of 
potassium,  containing  3  parts  of  bro- 
mide to  50  of  water. 

Direction  for  Calculating  Focus  Dis- 
tances for  Enlarging  Pictures.  Multi- 
ply the  focal  length  of  the  lens  used  by 
the  number  of  times  of  enlargement 
required  and  add  the  focal  length  to 
the  product.  For  instance,  the  nega- 
tive is  to  be  enlarged  3  times  with  an 
objective  having  a  focal  length  of  4 
inches  ;  the  ground  glass  of  the  camera 
must  be  16  inches  from  the  lens,  viz. : 
3X4+4  inches  of  focal  length  equals  16 
inches.  The  distance  the  negative  is 
to  be  in  front  of  the  lens  is  always  more 
than  the  focal  length,  but  less  than 
twice  the  focal  length. 


300 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Email  Photographs.  The  object  of 
this  process  is  to  treat  photographic 
pictures  in  such  a  manner  that  they 
appear  to  stand  out  from  the  surface  of 
the  picture.  The  process  is  as  follows : 
The  photograph  is  carefully  colored 
with  fine  gum  colors,  mostly  transpa- 
rent. The  negative  is  covered  on  the 
collodion  side  with  a  good  glass  plate 
free  from  scratches,  and  fastened  to  it 
with  clamps.  The  outlines  of  the 
figures  are  then  drawn  upon  the  glass 
plate  with  a  fine  brush,  and  black 
spirit  lacquer  and  the  ground  of  the 
negative  filled  in  with  the  same  kind 
of  lacquer,  so  that  only  the  figures  re- 
main free  and  clear.  The  glass  plate 
is  now  removed  from  the  negative,  and 
the  coating  with  spirit  lacquer,  after 
the  first  coat  is  dry,  is  repeated.  The 
coating  is  now  allowed  to  dry  thorough- 
ly; the  black  negative  mask  is  then 
placed  exactly  upon  the  colored  posi- 
tive, and  both  joined  together  on  the 
edges  with  strips  of  paper.  Although 
the  colored  figure  lies  in  reality  behind 
the  black  glass  plate,  it  seems  never- 
theless to  stand  out  from  it. 

Gelatine  Emulsions.  Abney  con- 
firms the  observations  of  others  that 
gelatine  emulsions  become  more  sensi- 
tive with  age.  He  states  also  that 
emulsion  plates  inclined  to  curl  lose 
this  fault  entirely  after  having  been 
kept  for  some  time.  He  also  recom- 
mends the  following  process  for  inten- 
sifying weak  plates:  The  plate,  after 
having  been  fixed,  is  first  washed  for 
half  an  hour  with  fresh  water,  which  is 
changed  every  10  minutes,  then  placed 
for  half  an  hour  longer  in  a  mixture  of 
1  part  of  diluted  dioxide  of  hydrogen 
and  60  parts  of  water,  and  finally 
washed  with  pure  water  for  5  min- 
utes. The  intensifying  solution  con- 
sists of:  I.  Pyrogallic  acid  and  citric 
acid  each  1  part,  and  water  480  parts. 
II.  Nitrate  of  silver  1  part,  water  24 
parts.  To  30  parts  of  No.  I  add  1  of 
No.  II.  The  intensifying  must  be 
done  in  the  dark  room. 

Glace  or  Enamelled  Photographs. 
Over  a  perfectly  clean  glass  sprinkle 
pulverized  talc  and  with  a  tuft  of  cot- 
ton rub  it  on  the  glass  with  a  circular 
movement  until  every  particle  of  the 
talc  disappears.  The  talc  gives  a  sur- 
face to  the  glass  that  assists  in  lifting 


the  enamelled  print  from  it.  Now  flow 
the  plate  with  collodion  prepared  as 
follows  :  Four  and  one-half  fluid  ounces 
of  ether,  3i  fluid  ounces  of  alcohol, 
sufficient  cotton  to  thicken,  and  24 
drops  of  castor  oil.  When  this  flow  is 
dry,  apply  the  prints  face  downward, 
after  immersing  them  in  a  solution  of 
gelatine  made  as  follows:  Cox's  gela- 
tine 1  ounce,  water  8J  fluid  ounces,  and 
glycerine  50  drops.  Add  the  gelatine 
and  glycerine  to  the  water,  and  let  it 
stand  over  night,  when  it  will  be  ready 
for  use  after  filtering.  AlloAV  the  prints 
to  remain  in  this  solution  about  5 
minutes  before  laying  them  on  the 
collodionized  glass,  and  then  pass  a 
gum  roller  lightly  over  them  to  press 
them  tightly  to  the  glass,  and  also  to 
remove  the  excess  of  gelatine.  After 
the  prints  are  nearly  dry  they  are 
ready  for  the  mounts.  For  this  pur- 
pose light  Bristol  board  is  best.  Use 
the  gelatine  solution  for  mounting  and 
mount  on  the  glass  as  the  prints  lie. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  lay  upon  the  back, 
after  the  mounts  have  been  applied,  a 
weight  of  some  kind,  as  a  heavy  piece 
of  glass,  which  should  remain  there  for 
an  hour  at  least.  This  assists  in  secur- 
ing a  complete  contact  to  the  print. 
The  whole  must  be  perfectly  dry  before 
an  attempt  is  made  to  remove  the 
prints  from  the  glass.  When  they  are 
thoroughly  dry  run  a  knife  blade 
around  the  edge  to  start  them  up;  and 
if  the  work  has  been  properly  done 
they  will  come  off  all  right.  Careful 
manipulation  is  the  only  surety  for  suc- 
cess. A  little  experience  will  enable 
any  one  to  perform  this  operation  well. 

Gold  and  Fixing  Baths.  As  soon  as 
the  impressions  come  from  the  printing 
frame  they  are  drawn  through  3  or  4 
washing  waters,  and  then  immersed  in 
a  dish  with  water  to  which  a  handful 
of  common  salt  has  been  added. 

Toning  Bath.  Chloride  of  gold  1 
grain,  sodium  acetate  32  grains,  sodium 
carbonate  4V  grains,  water  81  fluid 
ounces.  The  following  solution  should 
be  kept  on  hand  :  Chloride  of  gold  15 
grains,  sodium  acetate  1  ounce,  water  12| 
fluid  ounces,  some  of  this  being  added 
from  time  to  time  to  the  toning  bath  as 
it  becomes  weaker  by  use.  The  copies, 
after  toning,  are  several  times  washed 
with  water  containing  some  common 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


301 


*alt,  and  finished  in  the  following  bath : 
Water  3£  fluid  ounces  and  sodium  hy- 
posulphite 8J  ounces. 

The  fixing  bath  is  previously  neu- 
tralized with  sodium  carbonate  or  am- 
monia. 

New  Intensifying  Bath  for  Gelatine 
Negatives.  Mix  successively  the  fol- 
lowing solution :  a,  corrosive  sublimate 
4  parts,  and  water  200;  b,  iodide  of 
potassium  6  parts,  and  water  66 ;  and  c, 
sodium  acetate  8  parts,  and  water  66. 
This  intensifying  bath  has  the  advan- 
tage over  other  solutions  tbat  it  can  be 
usi-d  immediately  after  fixing  the 
plates,  and  it  gives  the  requisite  inten- 
sity, even  to  the  thinnest  negatives,  in  a 
few  minutes. 

New  Developer  for  Bromide  of  Silver 
Dry  Plates.  Edwards'  glycerine  pyro- 
gallic developer  is  superseding  the 
simple  pyrogallic  developer,  having 
greater  scope  in  the  exposure  and  con- 
trol of  the  development.  The  follow- 
ing solutions  are  used  :  A.  Pyrogallic 
acid  and  glycerine  each  1  part,  and 
alcohol  6.  B.  Bromide  of  potassium  1 
part,  ammonia  of  0.880  specific  gravity 
and  glycerine  each  8,  and  water  50. 
Both  concentrated  solutions  keep  for  a 
long  time.  For  use  in  developing  pour 
30  parts  of  water  into  a  saucer,  add  1 
part  of  solution  A,  and  a  like  quantity 
of  solution  B,  and  submerge  the  emul- 
sion plate  in  it.  With  a  correct  expos- 
ure the  image  appears  in  a  few  seconds, 
and  the  development  is  finished  in  a 
minute.  Should  the  picture,  in  con- 
sequence of  over-exposure,  appear  too 
suddenly,  the  developer  must  imme- 
diately be  poured  off1,  water  poured  into 
the  saucer  and  some  of  solution  A 
added,  which  with  the  residue  of  the 
remaining  ammonia  will  sufficiently 
develop  the  plate. 

New  Method  of  Preparing  Emulsion, 
especially  in  hot  weather,  and  which 
saves  all  washing,  is  as  follows:  Pre- 
pare the  following  solutions:  I.  Silver 
400  parts,  water  2800  parts.  II.  Bro- 
mide of  ammonium  240  parts,  gelatine 
24  parts,  water  2800  parts,  and  acid- 
ulate slightly  with  hydrochloric  acid. 

III.  Gelatine  20  parts,  water  465  parts. 

IV.  Hard  gelatine  and   soft    gelatine 
each  240  parts,  water  2230  parts.    When 
No.  II.  is  melted  add  gradually  No.  I. 
and  boil  for  4  hour.    Then  cool  it  to 


about  100°  F.  and  add  No.  III.  Let 
the  whole  cool,  then  shake  with  1160 
parts  of  alcohol,  when  the  whole  will 
be  precipitated  in  about  5  minutes. 
The  supernatant  liquor  contains  some 
traces  of  bromide  of  silver,  but  of  so 
little  value  that  it  is  best  to  pour  the 
fluid  off,  although  by  filtering  it  can  be 
obtained  entirely  clear.  Now  add 
again  1860  to  2800  parts  of  alcohol  to 
the  precipitate  to  make  it  more  solid, 
and  then  pour  off  the  alcohol.  The 
precipitate  may  be  washed  once  more 
with  water,  though  it  is  not  necessary., 
Now  mix  the  precipitate  with  No.  IV. 
keep  it  warm  for  some  time  and  shake 
until  all  is  thoroughly  mixed. 

New  Photo-printing  Receipts.  I. 
Preliminary  Preparation.  Flow  thor- 
oughly cleansed  plates  with  the  fol- 
lowing mixture :  Potash  water-glass 
1  rart  and  Pilsen  beer  11  parts.  When 
all  the  plates  have  been  flowed  heat 
them  somewhat  and  let  them  stand  till 
the  next  morning,  when  they  are  again 
heated,  washed,  and  stood  aside  to  dry. 

II.  Chrome-gelatine  Layer.  Wash 
25  parts  of  gelatine  in  several  waters 
and  let  them  swell  up  in  the  last  water. 
Then  dissolve  7.5  parts  of  chrome-alum 
in  200  parts  of  distilled  water,  add  the 
soaked  gelatine,  and  heat  the  whole  to 
120°  F.  When  the  gelatine  is  entirely 
dissolved  add  2.5  parts  each  of  bichro- 
mate of  potassium  and  bichromate  of 
ammonium.  The  plate  before  flowing 
is  somewhat  heated. 

Fixing  Solution.  Glycerine  500  parts, 
ammonia  50,  hyposulphite  of  sodium 
12,  and  water  250. 

Fhiid  for  Drawing  off  Negatives. 
Gelatine  36  parts,  radical  vinegar  100, 
and  glycerine  6  to  8.  The  solution  re- 
mains liquid  even  on  cooling,  and  the 
negatives  can  be  flowed  cold. 

Painting  the  Operating  Room.  Blue, 
which  is  generally  used,  prolongs  the 
taking  of  a  picture  instead  of  accelerat- 
ing it.  The  best  paint  for  the  walls  of 
the  operating  room  is  an  orange-green, 
obtained  by  mixing  orange  with  pea- 
green.  If,  "further,  the  collodion  layer 
and  the  silver-bath  are  colored  violet — 
the  complementary  color  of  orange- 
green — the  picture  is  under  favorable 
conditions  taken  instantaneously,  while 
under  less  favorable  circumstances  it 
requires  but  2  to  3  seconds. 


3.02 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Pe'tschler's  New  Dry  Method  of  Pre- 
paring Plates.  The  plates  prepared  by 
this  method  are  not  affected  by  day- 
light, and  can  be  again  sensitized  by 
washing  before  exposure  in  water  in 
the  dark  room.  It  simplifies  without 
varying  greatly  from  the  ordinary  pro- 
cess. 

The  collodionized  and  sensitized  plate 
is  first  washed  and  then  coated  with 
albumen,  which,  in  place  of  iodide, 
contains  only  2  to  4  parts  of  common 
salt  to  100  parts  of  albumen.  The  plate 
is  then  dried  by  submitting  it  to  a  great 
heat,  and  is  not  sensitive.  Instead  of 
sensitizing  it  in  a  silver-bath  it  is  sim- 
ply washed  in  the  dark  with  pure 
water,  whereby  the  layer  becomes 
again  sensitive. 

Photo-diaphanie,  or  Process  of  Trans- 
ferring Photographs  together  with  the 
Albumen  layer  on  Glass,  Porcelain,  etc. 
Float  the  paper  2  minutes  in  a  bath 
consisting  of  nitrate  of  silver  6  parts 
and  water  30  parts,  then  dry  and  ex- 
pose it  under  a  negative  until  the 
picture  is  copied.  Wash  with  water, 
and  tone  the  picture  in  a  solution  of  1 
part  of  chloride  of  gold,  30  parts  of 
sodium  acetate,  and  1050  parts  of  wa- 
ter, and  neutralized  with  carbonate  of 
sodium.  Let  the  solution  stand  for  24 
hours.  After  it  has  been  used  acidu- 
late it  slightly  with  hydrochloric  acid, 
and  when  it  is  to  be  employed  again 
neutralize  the  acid  with  carbonate  of 
sodium  and  add,  if  necessary,  some 
neutralized  chloride  of  gold. 

After  toning  the  diaphanie  picture  is 
placed  in  pure  water.  As  soon  as  the 
albumen  layer  begins  to  detach  itself 
from  the  paper  place  the  picture  in  a 
fixingbatn  consisting  of  sodium  hyporal- 

Shite  4  parts  and  water  20,  which  will 
etach  the  film  entirely  from  the  paper. 
The  film  remains  in  the  bath  about  10 
minutes,  whereby  it  becomes  very 
elastic  and,  after' washing  thoroughly 
with  water,  fit  for  transferring.  It  is 
laid  wet  on  the  article  to  be  decorated, 
which  must  be  entirely  free  from 
grease.'  If  the  film  should  not  adhere 
properly  wash  it  with  a  mixture  of 
radical  vinegar  of  32°  1  part  and  dis- 
tilled water  6,  which  renders  it  again 
elastic.  When  properly  fastened  re- 
move all  traces  of  acid  by  washing. 
Photo-emulsions.  Improvements  by 


j  If.  W.   Vogel.    The  improvements  con- 
;  sist  in  a  combination  of  emulsion  of 
bromide  of  silver  and  gelatine  emul- 
sion with  pyroxyline.     Four  different 
methods  may  be  employed. 

1 .  Prepare  a  gelatine  emulsion  with 
bromide  of  silver  (or  iodide  or  chloride 
of  silver).     Dry  and  dissolve  the  emul- 
sion in  3  to  10  times  its  quantity  of 
formic  or  acetic  acid.     This  acidulated 
emulsion   is  used  either  by  itself  or 
compounded  with  pyroxyline. 

2.  Dissolve  pyroxyline  by  itself  in 
one  of  the  above  acids  with  an  addition 
of  alcohol,  and  mix  the  solution  with 
equal  parts  by  volume  of  the  above 
acidulated  emulsion. 

3.  Prepare    an     ordinary    collodion 
emulsion,   precipitate    it    with    water, 
dry  the  precipitate,  and  dissolve  it  in 
one  of  the  acids  mentioned,  and  add 
gelatine  either  direct  or  in  solution. 

4.  Dissolve  gelatine  and  pyroxyline 
and  add  finely  powdered  bromide  of 
silver  (iodide  or  chloride  of  silver),  or 
produce  them  in  the  solution.     These 
new  emulsions  can  be  used  either  dry 
or  wet. 

Photo-printing  without  a  Press.  A 
carbon  picture  is  prepared  on  a  glass 
plate  in  the  usual  manner,  and  the 
picture  surrounded  by  a  wooden  frame 
which  exactly  encloses  the  glass  plate. 
Now  pour  on  a  moderately  warm  mixt- 
ure consisting  of  gelatine  1  part,  gum- 
Arabic  and  glycerine  each  2,  and  pos- 
sessing the  consistency  of  the  mixture 
used  in  ordinary  printing.  When 
solidification  has  taken  place  the  frame 
or  rim  is  carefully  removed  with  a 
hammer,  and  the  gelatine  plate,  which 
has  united  itself  with  the  carbon  picture, 
is  cautiously  turned  over.  With  re- 
spect to  the  printing  the  blackening  of 
the  picture  ft  performed  with  a  glass 
roller  and  is  best  managed  with  an 
elastic  runner,  as  practised  by  the  ordi- 
nary printer.  The  printing-ink,  which 
must  be  of  good  consistency,  is  dissolved 
in  oil  of  turpentine  or  benzol.  This 
solution  without  an  addition  of  varnish 
is  poured  on  the  plate  and  distributed 
by  the  glass  roller.  A  non-coagulated 
albuminized  paper  is  now  spread  over 
the  blackened  picture  with  due  pre- 
cautions. The  paper  should  not  lie  too 
long  on  the  plate,  otherwise  the  albumen 
layer  is  apt  to  dissolve  and  soil  the 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


303 


plate.  Moistening  the  plate  with  water 
is  not  necessary,  as  the  plate  is  moist 
enough  for  the  printing  of  a  dozen 
pictures.  After  continuous  use  it  ex- 
hausts itself,  but  still  it  is  hygroscopic 
enough  to  absorb  moisture  in  a  few 
hours  to  be  ready  again  for  printing. 
This  method  has  the  advantage  that 
the  print  is  obtained  in  relief;  also 
that  round  or  cylindrical  objects,  as 
flasks,  vases,  etc.,  can  be  printed. 

Photographic  Process  with  Phospho- 
rescent Substances.  The  following 
process  has  recently  been  published  by 
Warnerke :  Coat  a  glass  plate  or  paper 
with  a  layer  of  phosphorescent  sul- 
phide, using  albumen  as  agglutinant 
to  protect  the  powder  from  atmospheric 
influence.  By  preparing  the  phos- 
phorescent surface  upon  a  collodion- 
ized  glass  plate,  and  drawing  off  the 
film,  a  flexible  layer  is  obtained.  The 
plate  coated  with  calcium  sulphide  is 
dark  as  long  as  not  subjected  to  the 
action  of  light,  but  on  exposure  in  the 
camera  for  about  1  minute,  and 
brought  into  the  dark  room,  the  points 
struck  by  the  light  will  appear  lumi- 
nous. By  placing  the  luminous  pict- 
ure upon  an -emulsion  plate  for  about 
5  minutes,  and  then  developing  it,  a 
complete  negative,  but  reverse,  will  be 
obtained.  An  exposure  of  the  phospho- 
rescent plate  fora  few  seconds  suffices  to 
obtain  an  image  visible  in  the  dark 
room ;  heating  the  plate  increases  the 
luminosity.  The  picture  remains  lu- 
minous sufficiently  long  to  allow  of  sev- 
eral copies  being  successively  taken 
upon  emulsion  plates.  It  is  a  remark- 
able fact  that  the  picture  produced  in 
the  camera  is  not  sharp,  the  cause  of 
this  being  evidently  that  the  focus  of 
the  system  of  lenses  is  not  corrected  for 
rays  promoting  phosphorescence  (es- 
pecially ultra-violet  and  violet  rays). 
A  phosphorescent  plate  after  having 
become  luminous  remains  so  in  the 
dark  for  several  hours,  the  luminosity 
gradually  disappearing  after  that  time, 
but  in  a  red  or  green  light  it  is  extin- 
guished in  a  few  minutes.  By  ex- 
posing a  luminous  plate  to  bright  day- 
light under  a  red  glass  plate,  or  green 
aniline  layer,  for  several  minutes  it 
loses  the  power  of  emitting  light  in  the 
dark.  When  a  phosphorescent  plate 
is  exposed  under  an  ordinary  negative 


a  luminous  image  is  obtained  which, 
on  being  brought  in  contact  with  an 
emulsion  plate,  allows  of  a  sharp  posi- 
tive being  taken.  By  exposing  a  phos- 
phorescent plate  to  the  light,  then 
covering  it  with  a  negative  and  a  col- 
ored plate,  extinguishing  luminosity, 
and  again  exposing  it,  a  luminous 
positive  image  is  obtained,  because  the 
points  struck  by  the  colored  light  lose 
the  power  of  emitting  light  in  the  dark. 
With  phosphorescent  plates  it  is  possi- 
ble, according  to  Warnerke,  to  obtain 
photographs  from  the  red  end  of  the 
spectrum.  The  entire  surface  of  the 
plate  must  first  be  exposed  to  the  light. 
On  being  struck  by  the  spectrum  of  the 
sun  the  less  refrangible  rays  (on  the 
red  end)  destroy  the  illuminating 
power,  and  leave  only  Fraunhofer's 
dark  lines  gleaming  upon  the  plate. 
These  can  then  be  transferred  to  a 
gelatine  or  collodion  plate.  Lieuten- 
ant Darwin  has  made  similar  experi- 
ments, using  JBalmain's  luminous 
paint.  He  exposed  a  phosphorescent 
plate  to  the  sunlight  3  to  4  seconds, 
covered  it  with  a  negative  and  a  red 
glass  plate,  and  submitted  the  whole 
to  the  rays  of  the  sun  for  1£  minutes, 
and,  as  soon  as  the  plate  was  brought 
into  the  dark  room,  a  luminous  nega- 
tive made  its  appearance.  This,  on 
being  brought  in  contact  with  a  dry 
plate  for  30  seconds,  and  then  devel- 
oped, gave  a  negative  picture. 

Photographic  Reproduction.  This 
new  process  is  based  on  the  property 
of  perchloride  of  iron  being  reduced  to 
protochloride  by  light.  The  latter 
salt  is  not  changed  by  a  solution  of 
prussiate  of  potash,  while  the  former 
is  immediately  colored  blue.  The 
copying  paper  is  sensitized  by  immer- 
sion in  a  bath  formed  of  100  parts  of 
water,  and  10  of  perchloride  of  iron, 
and  5  of  oxalic  acid.  The  drawing, 
on  transparent  paper,  is  placed  on  a 
dry  sheet  of  the  copying  paper  and 
exposed  to  the  light  under  glass  from 
15  to  30  seconds  in  summer  and  40  to 
70  seconds  in  winter.  After  exposure 
the  sheet  is  placed  in  a  bath  of  prussi- 
ate of  potash  (15  :  100),  which  immedi- 
ately colors  blue  all  the  parts  where 
the  perchloride  has  remained  intact, 
but  does  not  affect  the  places  where 
the  salt  has  been  reduced  by  light. 


304 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


The  drawing  is  then  washed  with 
water,  and  passed  into  a  bath  of  8  to  10 
per  cent,  of  hydrochloric  acid,  which 
removes  the  salt  of  protoxide  of  iron; 
then  it  is  washed  again  and  dried. 
The  drawing  now  appears  in  deep  blue 
tints  on  a  very  white  ground,  and  looks 
like  a  drawing  made  by  hand  with  blue 
ink. 

Platinotypy.  This  new  process  of 
photo-chemical  printing  in  metallic 
platinum  has  been  recently  improved 
by  Roppe.  He  gives  the  following 
directions :  Dissolve  500  parts  of  chlo- 
ride of  iron  perfectly  pure  and  dry  in 
1000  parts  of  water.  Then  prepare  a 
warm  solution  of  carbonate  of  sodium 
entirely  free  from  potash  salts.  Both 
salts  are  found  sufficiently  pure  in 
commerce.  Then  filter  the  solutions, 
and  precipitate  the  solution  of  chloride 
of  iron  with  the  soda  solution  by  add- 
ing the  latter  as  long  as  a  precipitate 
is  formed.  The  result  will  be  ferric 
hydrate  which,  by  settling  and  washing 
with  water,  is  freed  as  much  as  possible 
from  sodium  chloride  which  has  been 
formed,  after  which  it  is  collected  in  a 
funnel  arranged  for  quick  filtration. 
When  dry  the  ferric  hydrate  is  dis- 
solved in  a  concentrated"  hot  solution 
of  oxalic  acid.  This  is  best  accomplished 
by  pouring  the  latter  gradually  to  the 
precipitate  contained  in  a  beaker  glass, 
care  being  had  to  avoid  an  excess. 
Now  introduce  12  parts  of  sodium 
chloro-platinite,  or,  if  this  cannot  be 
procured,  10  parts  of  platinum  tetra- 
chloride  into  the  hot  solution,  filter, 
and  concentrate  the  solution  by  evap- 
oration. With  this  the  first  sensitizing 
bath  is  prepared. 

The  paper  to  be  sensitized  must  be 
well  sized.  Float  the  paper,  gelatine 
side  down,  for  about  5  minutes,  care 
being  had  to  disperse  all  air  bubbles, 
and  using  all  other  precautions  as  in 
sensitizing  albumen  paper.  The  paper, 
if  kept  excluded  from  light  and  moist- 
ure, seems  to  improve  with  age.  Pict- 
ures taken  upon  paper  several  weeks  old 
seemed  to  be  more  perfect.  The  en- 
tirely dry  paper  being  exposed  under 
a  negative  to  the  light,  the  picture  can 
be  easily  perceived,  and  the  printing  is 
continued  until  the  white  places  assume 
a  weak  gray  coloring.  The  exposure 
requires  on  an  average  J  of  the  time 


necessary  for  albumen  papers,  silvered 
or  fumigated  with  ammonia.  The  papei 
is  now  immersed  in  the  following  de- 
veloping solution :  Oxalic  acid  25  parts, 
sodium  chloro-platinite  2  parts,  dis- 
solved in  250  parts  of  water;  or,  25 
parts  of  sodium  oxalate  and  1.5  parts  of 
platinum  chloride  dissolved  in  200  parts 
of  water.  The  developing  bath  must 
be  heated  to  120°  to  140°  F. ;  the  picture 
soon  reaches  the  requisite  intensity  and 
j  is  then  washed  and  dried. 

This  process  is  simple,  economical, 
and  gives  satisfactory  results.  The 
I  picture  retains  sometimes  a  yellowish 
tone  of  color  caused  by  the  excess  of 
oxalate  of  iron  present  in  the  paper, 
which  can  be  easily  remedied  by  immer- 
sion in  a  tepid  solution  of  potassium 
oxalate  and  alum.  The  sodium  salts 
are  better  than  the  potassium  salts, 
potassium  chloro-platinite  being  only 
moderately  soluble  in  water,  while  sodi- 
um chloro-platinite  is  very  much  so.  By 
increasing  the  quantity  of  the  platinum 
salts  very  dull  black  tones  of  color  can 
be  obtained,  and  also  a  paper  more  sen- 
sitive to  light,  which  might  be  of  ad- 
vantage in  winter. 

Precipitation  of  Gold  from  Old  To- 
ning Baths.  To  regain  the  gold  from 
baths  prepared  with  sodium  tungstate 
it  is  recommended  to  add  to  the  bath,  im- 
mediately after  having  been  used,  a  few 
drops  of  pure  aniline  oil  and  to  agitate 
it  thoroughly.  In  about  12  to  24  hours 
the  gold  will  be  precipitated  together 
with  a  little  tungstate.  When  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  gold  has  been  collected 
dissolve  it  in  aqua  regia,  reduce  the 
solution  somewhat  with  water,  neutral- 
ize it  carefully  with  sodium  carbonate, 
and  let  the  fluid  stand  quietly  for  2  or  3 
days, when  a  precipitate  of  gold-spangled 
tungsten-bronze  will  be  deposited,which 
is  filtered  off. 

Rapid  Method.  Sensitive  Collodion: 
Cotton  10  parts,  alcohol  400  parts,  ether 
500  parts,  solution  of  iodide  of  ammo- 
nium 45  parts,  solution  of  iodide  of  cad- 
mium 40  parts,  ari'l  solution  of  cadmi- 
um ammonio-brornide  35  parts.  The 
latter  is  prepared  by  dissolving  cadmi- 
um bromide  6  parts  and  ammonium 
bromide  4  parts  in  100  parts  of  alcohol. 
Sufficient  tincture  of  iodine  is  added  to 
this  collodion  to  give  it  an  orange-red 
color,  and  it  is  then  allowed  to  stand  for 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


305 


2  or  3  days.  The  silver  bath  must  be 
neutral,  but  the  collodion  acid  red. 

Developer  for  Photographs  of  Chil- 
dren. Water  1000  parts,  sulphate  of 
iron  50  parts,  acetic  acid  10  parts,  bo- 
racic  acid  10  parts,  purified  honey  1\ 
parts,  and  alcohol  3U  parts. 

Developer  for  Photographs  of  Adults. 
Water  1000  parts,  iron  60,  acetic  acid 
60,  alcohol  30. 

Rapid  Collodion  Process  by  Borli- 
netto.  Rectified  alcohol  96  parts,  ether 
of  66°  144  parts,  gun  cotton  2  parts, 
ammonium  iodide  and  cadmium  iodide 
each  1.66  parts. 

Neutral  Silver  Bath.  Nitrate  of 
silver  10  parts,  distilled  water  100 
parts,  and  a  few  drops  of  a  saturated 
alcoholic  solution  of  cadmium  iodide. 

Developing  Bath.  Sulphate  of  iron, 
alcohol,  nitric  acid,  and  radical  vine- 
gar each  5  parts,  and  water  100  parts. 

Fixing  Bath.  Sodium  hyposulphite 
1  part,  water  8  parts. 

Regaining  of  Silver  from  Residues  of 
Gelatine.  Emulsions.  Heat  the  residues 
and  add  caustic  potash  to  prevent 
gelatinizing.  When  the  solution  boils 
p-Hir  it  into  an  earthen- ware  pot  and 
add  concentrated  solution  of  potassium 
cyanide  till  the  cream  color  of  the 
emulsion  disappears  and  a  turbid  fluid 
is  formed.  Then  take  2  large  zinc-car- 
bon elements  charged  with  potassium  bi- 
chromate and  sulphuric  acid,  connect  a 
copper  plate  with  the  zinc-pole  of  the 
battery,  and  a  large  piece  of  coke  with 
the  carbon-pole,  and  hang  both  into  the 
solution  of  cyanide  of  silver.  Pure 
silver  will  at  once  be  precipitated  upon 
the  copper  plate.  Allow  the  battery  to 
act  for  an  entire  week  and,  when  'the 
solution  is  exhausted,  add  fresh  resi- 
dues. When  the  layer  of  silver  is  thick 
enough  it  is  broken  from  the  copper 
plate.  It  is  chemically  pure  silver. 
The  expense  is  somewhat  less  than 
melting.  For  65  parts  of  zinc  dissolved 
in  the  battery  108  parts  of  silver  should 
be  obtained. 

Ronoving  the  Negative  Layer  from 
the  Glass  Plate  is  easily  accomplished 
by  pouring  the  following  mixture  over 
the  dry,  unlacquered  negative :  Gela- 
tine 60  parts,  water  600  parts,  alcohol 
120  parts,  glycerine  10  parts,  radical 
vinegar  7.5  parts.  The  plate  is  then 
placed  in  a  horizontal  position  and 
20 


dried  in  a  room  free  from  dust.  When 
dry  run  a  knife  around  the  edges,  draw 
the  film  from  the  glass,  pass  it  through 
dull  varnish,  and  hang  it  up  for  a  few 
minutes  to  dry.  These  negatives  have 
the  advantage  over  the  glass  negatives 
that  they  can  be  retouched  from  the 
back,  which  makes  the  retouching  less 
visible  in  the  printing  and  can  be  more 
conveniently  kept,  requiring  less  space, 
and  besides"  are  indestructible  and  can 
be  easily  handled. 

Reproduction  of  Photo-negatives.  The 
sensitive  compound  used  for  coating 
the  plates  is  prepared  from  dextrine  4 
parts,  ordinary  white  sugar  5  parts, 
bichromate  of  ammonium  '2  parts,  water 
100  parts,  glycerine  2  to  8  drop's,  accord- 
ing to  the  condition  of  the  atmosphere. 
A  new  well-cleansed  plate  is  coated 
with  the  sensitive  chromium  solution; 
and,  after  the  superfluous  liquid  has 
been  allowed  to  flow  off  at  one  of  the 
corners,  the  plate  is  dried  in  the  dark 
upon  a  lithographic  stone  or  metal 
plate  for  10  minutes  in  a  temperatuie 
of  120°  to  160°  F.  The  film,  being  per- 
fectly dry,  while  yet  warm,  is  put  under 
a  negative  and  printed  in  the  shade  for 
10  or  15  minutes.  As  soon  as  it  comes 
out  of  the  printing  frame  the  plate  is 
again  slightly  warmed,  and  a  brush, 
dipped  into  the  graphite,  applied  over 
the  surface  of  the  image  which  should 
be  just  slightly  visible.  The  applica- 
tion of  the  powder  is  done  in  a  shaded 
corner  of  an  ordinary  room  illuminated 
by  daylight.  Do  not  press  hard  upon 
the  film  with  the  brush,  but  move  it 
over  the  surface  as  gently  as  possible; 
nor  will  it  do  to  hurry  the  operation. 

In  proportion  as  the  film  cools  so  the 
image  appears.  By  carefully  breathing, 
or,  still  better,  blowing  upon  the  film, 
the  operator  will  be  enabled  to  acceler- 
ate the  process,  and  when  the  picture 
has  attained  sufficient  vigor  the  super- 
fluous graphite  may  be  taken  off  with 
a  clean  brush.  A  normal  collodion  is 
now  applied  composed  of  alcohol  500 
parts,  ether  500,  and  pyroxyline  15  to 
20.  When  this  film  has  set  and  hard- 
ened the  edges  are  cut  round  with  a 
knife,  and  the  plate  put  into  a  porcelain 
dish  of  cold  water.  In  3  minutes  the 
picture  will  be  free  from  the  glass,  and 
the  film  may  be  employed  in  this  posi- 
tion, or  reversed  with  a  soft  brush,  and 


306 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


taken  out  of  the  water  adhering  either 
to  the  same  glass  plate  or  to  another. 
A  gentle  stream  of  water  falling  upon 
the  film  will  remove  any  chromium 
salt  still  remaining  on  it,  and  will  also 
press  down  the  loose  film  uniformly 
upon  the  glass  surface.  Finally  the 
plate  is  allowed  to  diy  in  a  perpendicu- 
lar position.  Further  treatment  of  the 
plate  with  varnish  follows  as  a  matter 
of  course.  The  image  upon  the  col- 
lodion film  is  very  thin;  but  it  need 
not  be  feared  that  it  will  tear  while  in 
the  water. 

Sensitive  Collodion  Emulsion.  Im- 
merse the  plates  coated  with  collodion 
emulsion  for  1  to  2  minutes  in  a  solution 
of  1  part  of  gelatine  in  100  of  water, 
and  then  dry  them.  The  plates  treated 
thus  are  very  sensitive,  and,  if  cor- 
rectly exposed,  give  a  vigorous  nega- 
tive. 

Sensitive  Photo-paper.  Dissolve  2 
parts  of  nitrate  of  silver  in  30  parts  of 
water,  and  add  -fe  part  of  citric  acid. 
After  this  is  dissolved  add  ammonia 
until  precipitation  ceases.  Then  re- 
dissolve  with  nitric  acid,  and  leave  the 
solution  so  that  a  small  proportion  of 
the  precipitated  citrate  of  silver  remains. 
Let  that  settle  perfectly,  and  then  add 
10  drops  of  nitric  acid  to  every  2500 
parts  of  solution.  Sheets  of  the  ordi- 
nary albuminized  paper  may  be  sensi- 
tized by  floating  for  1£  minutes.  There 
is  no  trouble  from  bubbles.  The  paper 
is  more  sensitive  in  printing  than  the 
ordinary  paper,  and  tones  splendidly. 
The  paper  is  fumed  in  the  usual  way 
with  strong  ammonia.  Paper  made  in 
this  way  will  be  found  just  as  white  at 
the  end  of  5  days  as  when  first  pre- 
pared. 

Simple  and  Quick  Process  of  Prepar- 
ing Pyrogallic  Acid.  Ten  parts  of  dry 
gallic  acid  are  placed  in  a  bottle  or 
wide  tube  together  with  30  parts  of 
glycerine,  and  heated  on  a  sand-bath 
ito  375°  or  390°  F.  until  development 
of  carbonic  acid  ceases.  The  conversion 
of  gallic  acid  into  pyrogallic  acid  takes 
place  in  a  short  time.  The  brown,  tena- 
cious fluid  is,  after  boiling,  diluted  with 
1000  parts  of  water,  whereby  a  solution 
is  obtained  containing  in  20  parts  about 
&  part  of  pyrogallic  acid.  Care  must 
be 'had  that  the  temperature  does  not 
rise  above  390°  F.  during  the  process. 


Button's  New  Developer.  Dissolve 
8  parts  of  sulphate  of  iron  in  16  parts 
of  water,  and  in  another  vessel  4  parts 
of  sugar  in  3  parts  of  water.  When  all 
are  dissolved,  mix  the  two  solutions, 
boil  and  filter  the  mixture,  and  allow 
the  salt  to  crystallize.  This  produces 
a  more  vigorous  development  than  ordi- 
nary sulphate  of  iron. 

Button's  Weak  Silver-bath  for  Al- 
buminized Paper.  Dissolve  10  parts 
of  nitrate  of  silver  in  100  parts  of  water, 
and  add,  with  constant  stirring,  am- 
monia until  the  solution  becomes  clear 
and  the  turbidity  at  first  shown  has 
disappeared.  Then  add  nitric  acid, 
drop  by  drop,  until  blue  litmus  paper 
begins  to  redden. 

Toning  Bath  with  Calcium  Chloride 
and  Sodium  Acetate  by  Parkinson. 
Mix  in  a  suitable  flask  calcium  chlo- 
ride 3  parts,  sodium  acetate  8  parts, 
calcium  carbonate  8  parts,  distilled 
water  100  parts.  Mix  5  parts  of  this 
solution  with  1000  parts  of  water,  and 
add  i  part  of  chloride  of  gold.  The 
bath,  after  standing  for  5  to  6  hours,  is 
ready  for  use,  and  may  be  kept  for 
some  time. 

Transfer  Paper  with  Collodio-chlo~ 
ride  of  Silver  is  prepared  in  the  follow- 
ing manner :  Coat  a  stout  piece  of 
paper  with  a  solution  of  caoutchouc 
thick  enough  to  prevent  the  collodion 
from  penetrating  and  spotting  the  paper. 
When  the  coating  is  dry  pour  upon  it 
collodio-chloride  of  silver  containing 
1.5  parts  of  nitrate  of  silver,  1  part  of 
citric  acid,  and  some  glycerine.  The 
picture  prints  splendidly  upon  the 
caoutchouc  surface ;  it  is  toned,  fixed 
and  washed,  and  then  laid  in  water 
until  it  can  be  mounted.  The  article 
upon  which  the  photo-print  is  to  be 
mounted  is  coated  with  a  solution  of 
gelatine  containing  some  glycerine. 
When  dry  dip  the  gelatinized  article  in 
a  vessel  with  clean  water,  and  place 
the  wet  print,  picture  side  down,  upon  it, 
taking  care  to  avoid  air  bubbles.  The 
mounted  picture  is  then  allowed  to  dry. 
When  it  is  entirely  dry  the  caoutchouc 
paper  is  brushed  over  with  benzine, 
and  withdrawn  from  the  picture. 

Various  Practical  Receipts.  I.  Col- 
lodion  for  Hot  Weather.  Ether  300 
parts,  alcohol  360  parts,  bromide  of 
cadmium  and  bromide  of  ammonium 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


307 


each  A  part,  iodide  of  cadmium  TV  part, 
and  iodide  of  ammonium  5  part.     Take 

30  parts  of  this  to  every  30  parts  of  raw 
collodion. 

II.  Collodion    for     Outside     Work. 
Ether    and  alcohol    each    150    parts, 
iodide  of  ammonium  and  cadmium  and 
bromide  of  cadmium    each   H   parts, 
collodion  cotton  4  to  6  parts.     This  col- 
lodion may  be  used  for  taking  photo- 
graphs of  persons  and  landscapes.     In 
case  it  becomes  discolored,  acidulate  it 
with  a  trace  of  tincture  of  iodine. 

III.  Developer.     Saturated    solution 
of  sulphate  of  iron  and  radical  vinegar 
each  30  parts,  water  360  parts.     For 
white    drapery    and    photographs    of 
children  use  it  somewhat  more  concen- 
trated. 

IV.  Silver  Bath.    Water  240  parts, 
glycerine  best  quality  120  parts,  and 
silver  20  parts.     Let  it  stand  in  the  sun 
for  a  few  days.     If  the  nitrate  is  acid, 
add  a  few  drops  of  solution  of  potas- 
sium carbonate,   heat  to   the    boiling 
point,  and  filter.     Later  on  re-acidulate 
the  bath  thoroughly.    Sensitized  plates 
keep  very  long  in  this  bath. 

V.  Developer  for  Landscapes.    Rad- 
ical vinegar  90  parts,  and  1  to  2  parts 
of  sulphate  of  iron  to  every  50  parts  of 
solution. 

VI.  After-developer.    Rain-water  120 
parts,  citric  acid  2  parts,  and  sulphate 
of  iron  680  parts,  and  a  few  drops  of  so- 
lution of  silver. 

VII.  Good   Intensifying  Bath.     So- 
lution 1.    Permanganate  of  potassium 

31  parts,  water  300  parts. 

Solution  2.  Bichromate  of  potassium 
65  parts,  water  300  parts.  Keep  the 
two  solutions  in  separate  bottles,  and 
for  use  mix  equal  parts. 

VIII.  Solution  for  Preparing  Paper. 
Boiled  milk  567  parts,  radical  vinegar 
a  few  drops,  the   white  of  two  large 
eggs,  bromide  of  potassium  5i   parts, 
iodide  of  potassium  10J  parts.     Mix  and 
filter.     The   white  of  egg  must,   pre- 
viously to  adding  the  milk,  be  beaten 
to  a  froth.  Float  the  paper  for  2  minutes. 

IX.  Silver  Bath.    Water  100  parts, 
silver  8  parts. 

X.  Developer.    Water  240  parts,  rad- 
ical Vinegar  30  parts,  bromide  of  potas- 
sium i  part,  and  pyrogallic  acid  2  heap- 
ing tea-spoonfuls  to  each  8  ounces  of 
solution. 


XI.  Fixing  Bath.    Water  300  parts, 
hyposulphite  of  sodium  120  parts. 

XII.  Negative  Lacquer  with  Castor 
Oil.     Alcohol  500  parts,  white  shellac 
360  parts,  sandarac  45  parts,  and  1  drop 
of  castor    oil    to  every    20    parts    of 
lacquer. 

Various  Receipts  for  the  Gelatine 
Process.  I.  Edward's  Glycerine  De- 
veloper, a.  Pyrogallic  acid  30  parts, 
glycerine  30,  alcohol  180.  b.  Potas- 
sium bromide  4  parts,  ammonia  and 
glycerine  each  30,  water  180.  Take 
10  parts  each  of  a  and  b  to  300  of 
water. 

II.  Dr.  Eder's  Oxalate  of  Iron  De- 
veloper,   a.  Saturated  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  iron,    b.  Saturated  solution  of 

|  neutral  oxalate  of  potassium,  c.  Bro- 
1  mide  of  potassium  1  part  and  water  10. 
Mix  100  parts  of  a  with  400  of  b,  and 
add  15  to  30  drops  of  c.  Should  the 
picture  not  appear  in  the  course  of  5  to 
10  minutes  dip  it  into  the  following 
stronger  bath :  Dissolve  60  parts  of 
neutral  oxalate  of  potassium  in  100 
of  boiling  water,  and  stir  in  this  15 
parts  of  sulphate  of  iron.  This  bath, 
when  cold,  will  keep  in  full  bottles 
tightly  closed. 

III.  Nelson's  Developer,     a.  Water 
360  parts,  sulphate  of  iron  120,  alum 
15,  sugar  30.     6.  Water  720  parts  and 
neutral  oxalate  of  potassium  240.    Mix 
1  part  of  a  with  2  of  b. 

IV.  Bedford's  Developer,    a.  Pyro- 
gallic acid  4  parts,  nitric  acid  i,  water 
600.     b.  Ammonia    8    parts,  bromide 
of  ammonium  or  potassium  5,  water 
600.    For  a  normal  exposure  mix  equal 
parts  of  a  and  b. 

V.  Abney's  Intensifying  Bath.   Pour 
5  part  of  pyrogallic  acid,  1  of  radical 
vinegar,  and  90  of  water  upon  the  plate 
previously  laid  in  alum  for  one  hour, 
and  add  after  one  minute  1  part  of  solu- 
tion of  silver.  Iron  may  be  used  in  place 
of  pyrogallic  acid,  viz.,  0.9  part  of  sul- 
phate of  iron,  1.8  of  citric  acid,  and  90 
of  water. 

Varnishes.  Good  Negative  Lacquer. 
Thirty  parts  of  bleached  shellac,  10 
parts  of  mastic,  1  part  of  Venetian  tur- 
pentine, 350  parts  of  strong  alcohol,  and 
a  few  drops  of  oil  of  lavender. 

Retouching  Varnish.  Shellac  1  part, 
sandarac  6  parts,  mastic  6  parts,  ether 
10  parts. 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Elastic  Lacquer.  Dammar  40  parts, 
acetone  180  parts. 

Excellent  Lacquer  for  Photographs. 
Amber  2  parts,  copal  4,  mastic  1,  petro- 
leum naphtha  10,  spirit  of  wine  20. 

Vibrotypes.     A.  Kurtz,  of  New  York, 
makes  use  of  a  very  original  method  to 
impart  softness  to  negatives  and  thus  j 
save  retouching.     He  places  a  number) 
of  gas-flames  between  the  person  whose  j 
photograph   is   to   be   taken   and    the 
camera.     These  put  the  air  in  vibra- 
tion and  cause  a  peculiar  but  not  in- 
jurious softness,  toning  down  the  very 
sharp  outlines. 

Photographs  on  Wood.     The  follow- 
ing formula  will   be   found   useful  to 
wood  engravers,  or  to  those  who  are 
photographing    on   wood:    Dissolve   £' 
part  of  gelatine  in  33  parts  of  water, 
mixing  it  witli  some  gilders'  glue,  and 
spread  it  upon  the  surface  of  the  block 
with  a  broad  camel's-hair  brush.  When 
dry,  brush  over  the  prepared  surface, 
in  the  dark  room,  some  of  the  follow- 
ing solution :  a.  Red  prussiate  of  potash 
8  parts,  water  60  parts,     b.  Ammonia- 
citrate  of  iron  9  parts,  water  60  parts. 
When  dissolved  mix  together  and  filter,  j 
This   solution    should   be  kept  in  the ! 
dark.     When  the  coating  has  dried  ex-  j 
pose  under  a  negative  in  sunshine  for 
10  or  12  minutes,  then  take  the  block 
where  the  light  is  not  very  strong  and 
wash   the  surface   lightly  with  a  soft  j 
sponge  and  water,  and  a  beautiful  dark  j 
blue  picture  will  appear,  that  will  not 
chip  in  cutting.     To  make  a  red  pict- 
ure prepare  aa  above,  but  use  the  fol- 
lowing mixture :  Dissolve  1.5  to  2  parts 
of  sulphate  of  uranium  in  30  parts  of  j 
thin   gum-Arabic   or    gelatine  water; 
brush   this  on  the  block  in  the  dark 
room  and,  when  dry,  expose  under  a 
negative  for  10  to  20  minutes  in  sun- 
shine.    Then  wash  well  with  a  sponge 
and  water.     Now  take  a  clean  sponge 
moistened  with  a  solution  of  red  prus- ! 
siate  of  potash,  li  parts  to  30  parts  of  j 
water,  and  apply  it  quickly  all  over  | 
the  surface,  and  the  picture  will  appear  j 
immediately.     When  the  work  is  com- ! 
pleted  clean  with  a  fresh  sponge  and  : 
water.     A  drop  or  two  of  muriatic  acid  i 
in  some  water  will  bleach  the  picture  i 
if  over*printed. 

Wothly's  Negative  Process  (without  j 
Intensifying  Bath).  1.  Collodion.  Nine- 1 


ty  per  cent,  alcohol  200  parts,  iodide  c* 
ammonium  37  parts,  bromide  of  cad- 
mium 7  parts,  iodide  of  cadmium  li 
parts,  absolute  ether  200  parts,  col- 
lodion cotton  8  parts,  and  water  f  part. 

2.  Developer  for  Negatives.    Sulphate 
of  iron  2  parts,  water  500  parts,  alcohol 
3  parts,  and  acetic  acid  £  part. 

3.  Varnish  for  Negatives.  Ninety-five 
per  cent,  alcohol  50  parts,  white  shellac 
12  parts,  and  a  few  drops  of  oil  of 
lavender. 

4.  Polishing  Glass  Plates.     Prepare 
a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  sulphuric 
acid  and  water.     Place  the  plates  in 
this  for  one  day,  then  rinse  them  with 
water,  and  rub  them  dry  with  a  tuft  of 
cotton  and  old  collodion,  and  finally 
cleanse  them  completely  with  alcohol 
and  linen  thoroughly  washed  and  dried. 

PLASTER   OF    PARTS   CASTS  WHICH 
CAN  BE  WASHED. 

Some  time  ago  a  prize  was  offered  by 
the  Prussian  government  for  a  method 
of  preparing  plaster  casts  in  such  a 
manner  that  they  might  be  washed 
without  injury.  The  prize  was  a  warded 
to  Dr.  Rcissig.  In  the  following  we 
give  a  description  of  the  process :  In 
preparing  these  casts  it  was  not  only 
desirable  to  obtain  a  surface  which 
should  not  wash  away,  but  also  to  in- 
clude a  simple  process  for  preventing 
dust  entering  the  pores,  and  rendering 
them  more  easily  cleansed.  Laborious 
experiments  convinced  Dr.  Reissig  that 
the  only  practical  method  of  accom- 
plishing this,  and  retaining  sharpness 
of  outline,  was  to  convert  the  sulphate 
of  lime  into. 

1.  Sulphate  of  barium  and  carbonate 
of  calcium ;  or, 

2.  Into  silicate  of  calcium  by  means 
of  silicate  of  potassium. 

Objects  treated  in  this  way  are  not 
affected  by  hot  water  or  hot  soap  solu- 
tions, but  are  porous,  catch  dust,  etc., 
and  when  first  put  into  water  eagerly 
absorb  all  impurities.  To  avoid  these 
evils  the  articles  are  rendered  water- 
proof by  subsequently  coating  them 
with  an  alcoholic  soap  solution  which 
penetrates  easily  and  deeply  into  the 
pores,  and  when  washed  is  converted 
into  suds,  which  easily  remove  the  dust 
without  allowing  it  to  penetrate. 


PLASTER  OF   PARIS  CASTS. 


309 


Process  ivith  Baryta  Water.  This  is 
the  easiest,  simplest,  and  cheapest 
method.  It  depends  upon  the  fact  that 
gypsum  or  calcium  sulphate  is  con- 
verted by  baryta  water  into  barium  sul- 
phate (which  is  totally  insoluble)  and 
caustic  lime,  which  is  converted  by 
contact  with  the  air  into  calcium  car- 
bonate. The  practical  method  of  carry- 
ing this  out  is  as  follows :  A  large  zinc 
vessel  is  required  with  a  tight-fitting 
cover.  In  the  vessel  is  a  grating  made 
of  strips  of  zinc  resting  on  feet  1  to  2 
inches  high.  This  vessel  is  two-thirds 
filled  with  soft  water  of  50°  to  75°  F., 
and  to  every  25  gallons  of  water  are 
added  9  pounds  of  fused  or  14£  pounds 
of  crystallized  pure  hydrated  oxide  of 
barium,  and  9£  ounces  of  lime  previ- 
ously slaked  in  water.  As  soon  as  the 
baryta  water  gets  clear  it  is  ready  to 
receive  the  casts.  They  are  wrapped 
in  suitable  places  with  cords,  and,  after 
removing  the  scum  from  the  baryta 
bath,  are  dipped  in  as  rapidly  as  pos- 
sible, face  first,  and  then  allowed  to 
rest  upon  the  grating. 

Hollow  casts  are  first  saturated  by 
rapid  motions  in  the  bath,  then  filled 
with  the  solution  and  suspended  in  the 
bath  with  the  open  part  upwards. 
After  the  cords  are  all  secured  above 
the  surface  of  the  liquid  the  zinc  vessel 
is  covered.  The  casts  are  left  in  the 
bath  for  1  to  10  or  more  days  according 
to  the  thickness  of  the  water-proof 
stratum  required.  After  taking  off  the 
cover  and  removing  the  scum  the  casts 
are  drawn  up  by  the  strings,  rinsed  off 
with  lime  water,  allowed  to  drain  off, 
carefully  wiped  off  with  cotton  or 
linen  rags,  and  left  to  dry,  without 
being  touched  by  the  hands,"  in  a  warm 
place,  free  from  dust.  The  same  solu- 
tion which  has  been  used  once  can  be 
used  again  by  adding  a  little  more 
baryta  and  lime. 

Of  course  this  process  can  only  be 
applied  to  casts  free  from  dust,  snioke, 
dirt,  etc.  To  prevent  the  casts  from 
getting  dust  upon  them  they  should  be 
wrapped  in  paper  when  taken  from 
the  mould  and  dried  by  artificial  heat 
below  212°  F.,  care  being  had  not  to  | 
handle  them  with  sweaty  hands.  If  in 
spite  of  every  precaution  the  casts  when 
finished  show  yellow  spots  they  can  be 
removed  in  this  manner:  The  casts 


when  perfectly  dry  are  painted  over 
with  water  and  oil  of  turpentine,  then 
put  in  a  glass  case  and  exposed  to  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun.  All  spots  of  an 
organic  nature  will  then  disappear,  but 
rust,  smoke,  and  mineral  spots  cannot 
be  removed  in  this  way.  In  the  place 
of  cold  baryta  water  the  casts  may  be 
placed  for  half  an  hour  in  a  concen- 
trated solution  of  baryta  heated  to  100° 
to  120°  F.  This  has  the  advantage 
that  the  casts  may  be  put  in  before 
drying.  As  the  casts  treated  in  this 
way  are  not  hardened  very  deeply  and 
are  still  porous,  it  is  well  to  place  them 
subsequently  in  a  cold  bath  for  a  longer 
time. 

The  casts  are  now  ready,  as  soon  as 
perfectly  dry,  for  the  soap  solution.  A 
pure,  good,  hard  soap  is  cut  in  shavings, 
which  are  dried  and  then  dissolved  in 
50  or  60  per  cent,  of  alcohol,  10  or  12 
parts  of  alcohol  to  1  of  soap.  A  solu- 
tion of  Marseilles  soap  known  as 
"  spirit  us  saponatus"  can  be  bought  at 
any  drug  store.  The  finest  appearance 
as  well  as  a  high  degree  of  durability 
is  obtained  by  using  a  solution  of  stear- 
ate  of  soda  in  strong  alcohol.  Both 
the  solution  and  cast  should  be  warm, 
so  that  it  may  penetrate  as  perfectly 
and  deeply  as  possible.  It  does  no  harm 
to  repeat  the  operation  several  times  as 
long  as  the  liquid  is  absorbed  by  the 
cast.  When  dry  the  cast  is  finished. 

Process  with  Silicate  of  Potassium. 
This  process  depends  upon  the  conver- 
sion of  the  calcium  sulphate  into  calcium 
silicate — an  extremely  hard,  durable,in- 
soluble  compound — and  is  accomplished 
by  the  use  of  a  dilute  solution  of  silicate 
of  potassium  containing  free  potash.  To 
prepare  this  solution  make  a  10  per 
cent,  solution  of  caustic  potash  in  water, 
heat  to  boiling  in  a  suitable  vessel,  and 
then  add  pure  silicic  acid,  free  from 
iron,  as  long  as  it  continues  to  dissolve. 
On  standing  the  cold  solution  usually 
throws  down  some  highly  silica  ted  pot- 
ash and  alumina.  It  is  left  in  well- 
stoppered  glass  vessels  to  settle.  Just 
before  using  it,  it  is  well  to  throw  in  a 
few  small  pieces  of  potash  or  to  add  1 
or  2  per  cent,  of  the  potash  solution. 
If  the  plaster  articles  are  very  bulky 
this  solution  can  be  diluted  to  one-half 
with  pure  water.  The  casts  are  silicated 
by  dipping  them  in  a  cold  state  for  a 


310 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


few  minutes  into  the  solution,  or  ap- 
plying the  solution  by  means  of  a  well- 
cleaned  sponge,  or  throwing  it  upon 
them  as  a  fine  spray.  When  the  chem- 
ical reaction,  which  takes  place  almost 
instantly,  is  finished,  the  excess  of  the 
solution  is  best  removed  with  some 
warm  soap-water  or  a  warm  solution 
of  stearine  soap,  and  this  finally  re- 
moved with  still  warmer  pure  water. 
The  casts,  which  can  be  immersed  or 
easily  moved  about,  may  be  treated  as 
above  when  warm;  a  very  short  time  is 
required,  but  some  experience  is  neces- 
sary. In  every  case  it  is  easy  to  tell 
when  the  change  is  effected,  from  the 
smooth,  dense  appearance,  and  by  its 
feeling  when  scratched  with  the  finger- 
nail. It  is  not  advisable  to  leave  the 
casts  top  long  in  the  potash  solution  as 
it  may  injure  them.  A  little  practice 
renders  it  easy  to  hit  the  right  point. 
The  fresher  and  purer  the  gypsum  and 
the  more  porous  the  cast  the  more 
necessary  it  is  to  work  as  quick  as  pos- 
sible. Castings  made  with  old  and  poor 
plaster  of  Paris  are  useless  for  silicating. 
These  silicated  casts  are  treated  with 
soap  as  before.  In  washing  plaster- 
casts  prepared  by  either  process  it  is 
recommended  to  use  a  clean  soft  sponge, 
carefully  freed  from  all  adherent  sand 
and  limestone,  moistened  with  luke- 
warm water  and  well  soaped.  They 
are  afterwards  washed  with  clean 
water.  The  addition  of  some  oil  of  tur- 
pentine to  the  soap  is  useful,  as  it 
bleaches  the  casts  on  standing.  The 
use  of  hot  soap-suds  must  be  avoided. 

JZrethauer's  Method  of  Preparing 
Plaster  of  Paris  Casts  Resisting  the 
Action  of  the  Weather.  Slake  1  part 
of  finely  pulverized  lime  to  a  paste, 
then  mix  gypsum  with  lime  water,  and 
intimately  mix  both.  From  the  com- 
pound thus  prepared  the  figures  are 
cast.  When  perfectly  dry  they  are 
painted  with  hot  linseed  oil,  repeating 
the  operation  several  times,  then  with 
linseed-oil  varnish,  and  finally  with 
white  oil  pai nt.  Statues,  etc. ,  prepared 
in  this  way  have  been  constantly  ex- 
posed to  the  action  of  the  weather  for  4 
years,  without  suffering  any  change. 

Jacobsen  prepares  casts  which  retain 
no  dust,  and  can  be  washed  with  luke- 
warm soap-water  by  immersing  them 
or  throwing  upon  tnem  in  a  fine  spray 


a  hot  solution  of  a  soap  prepared  from 
stearic  acid  and  soda  lye  in  tenj;imes 
its  quantity  by  weight  of  hot  water. 

Shellhass  recommends  the  coating  of 
plaster  of  Paris  casts  with  a  compound 
of  finely  powdered  mica  and  collodion 
prepared  as  follows :  The  mica,  rendered 
perfectly  white  by  boiling  with  hydro- 
chloric acid  or  calcining,  is  ground 
very  fine,  sifted  and  elutriated,  and 
then  mixed  with  dilute  collodion  to 
the  consistency  of  oil  paint,  and  applied 
with  a  soft  brush.  Casts  coated  in  this 
way  possess  a  silvery  lustre,  have  the 
advantage  of  being  indifferent  to  sul- 
phurous ex  halations,  andean  be  washed 
without  injury. 


PRESERVING  MEAT,  MILK,  VEGE- 
TABLES, VEGETABLE  SUBSTANCES, 
WOOD,  ETC.,  AND  PRESERVATIVES. 

Boro-glycerine  for  Preserving  Or- 
ganic Substances  is  prepared  by  heat- 
ing 92  parts  of  glycerine  with  62  of 
boracic  acid  to  392°  F. 

Boro-tartrate  for  Preserving  Meat 
and  other  Food.  Distilled  water  is 
aromatized  with  nutmeg  in  the  propor- 
tion of  1  or  2  parts  to  1000,  and  in  this 
is  dissolved  12  to  15  parts  of  boro-tar- 
trate  obtained  by  melting  together  2 
parts  of  tartaric  acid  with  15  of  boracic 
acid.  This  antiseptic  fluid  is  injected 
into  the  arteries  of  the  animal  to  be  pre- 
served, which  is  then  cut  up,  and  the 
pieces,  after  the  bones  have  been  re- 
moved, are  immersed  in  the  fluid  for 
several  hours  and  then  dried  in  the  air. 
Small  pieces  require  to  be  immersed 
only  for  a  short  time,  or  their  surface 
simply  sponged  with  the  fluid. 

English  Pickle  for  Meat.  Dissolve 
300  parts  of  common  salt,  5  parts  of 
saltpetre,  and  50  parts  of  sugar  in  2000 
parts  of  water.  Boil  the  whole  and 
remove  the  scum. 

Fluids  for  Preserving  Corpses,  Ana- 
tomical Specimens,  Plants,  etc.  The 
Cultus  Department  of  the  German  Em- 
pire has  bought  the  following  patented 
process  from  the  inventor,  Jean  Wickers- 
heimer,  and  published  it  for  the  benefit 
of  the  public :  Dissolve  3£  ounces  of 
alum,  |  ounce  of  common  salt,  £ 
ounce  of  saltpetre,  2  ounces  of  pot- 
ash, and  J  ounce  of  arsenious  acid 


PRESERVATIVES  FOR  MEAT,  ETC. 


311 


in  2i  quarts  of  boiling  water ;  allow  the 
solution  to  cool,  and  then  filter.  Now 
add  to  every  2£  gallons  of  the  neutral 
fluid  3i  quarts  of  glycerine  and  If  pints 
of  methyl  alcohol.  About  li  quarts  are 
required  for  injecting  the  body  of  a 
child,  and  1  gallon  for  that  of  an  adult. 
Anatomical  specimens  are  simply  im- 
mersed in  the  fluid  for  6  to  12  days. 
The  muscles,  etc.,  when  dry,  remain 
soft  and  flexible. 

Struve  recommends  the  following 
fluid  in  which  the  alum  is  omitted,  which 
he  claims  to  be  entirely  superfluous, 
and  as  exerting  a  disturbing  influence  [ 
in  consequence  of  its  being  precipi-  ' 
tated  :  Water  55.45  per  cent.,  glycerine 
37.7  per  cent.,  methyl  alcohol  4.43  per 
cent.,  potassium  sulphate  1.34  per  cent., 
common  salt  0.46  per  cent.,  saltpetre 
0.23  per  cent.,  and  arsenious  acid  0.39 
per  cent. 

Oscar  Jacobsen,  for  the  same  reason 
as  Struve,  changes  the  receipt  as  fol- 
lows: Arsenious  acid  f  ounce,  potas- 
sium carbonate  i  ounce,  saltpetre  i 
ounce,  common  salt  •&  ounce,  potassium 
sulphate  \  ounce,  and  water  2i  quarts. 

Two  fluids  prepared  according  to 
Wickers/tenner's  patent  have  been 
brought  into  commerce,  one  intended 
for  "  injecting"  the  other  for  "  immers- 
ing" the  first  containing  larger  quan- 
tities of  the  different  salts  than  the 
latter.  They  contain  no  alum,  and  are 
prepared  according  to  the  following 
receipts : 

Injecting    Immersing 


Arsenious  acid  .  . 
Sodium  chloride  . 
Potassium  sulphate 

"          nitrate    . 

"         carbonate         0.705   ' 

Water 2  gals. 

Glycerine 3  qts. 

Methyl  alcohol   .     .     .     1  pt. 


fluid. 
0.56 
2.82 
7.05 


fluid. 
0.42  oz. 
2.11  " 
5. '29  " 
0.63  " 
0.52  " 

2  gals. 

3  qts. 
Ipt. 


Improved  Process  for  Preserving 
Meat,  Fish,  Fruits,  Liquids,  etc.  For 
closing  bottles  hermetically  the  follow- 
ing mixture  is  used :  Melt  3*  parts  of  glue 
with  1  of  glycerine  or  oil.  For  bottles 
containing  volatile  fluids  the  mixture 
consists  of  3  parts  of  gelatine,  i  of  glyc- 
erine or  oil,  .and  i  of  water. 

To  preserve  meat,  fish,  fruits,  etc., 
the  articles  are  surrounded  with  a  com- 
pound prepared  by  melting  2J  parts 


of  gelatine  in  *  part  of  glycerine.  To 
protect  the  gelatine  from  spoiling  4 
parts  of  tannin  are  added  to  every 
10,000  parts  of  the  compound.  The 
bottle  or  jar  is  hermetically  closed  by 
placing  a  piece  of  paper  upon  the  con- 
tents, and  filling  the  space  between  this 
and  the  cork  with  the  above  com- 
pound. 

New  Process  of  Giving  Preserved 
Vegetables  a  Natural  Color.  Copper 
and  zinc  salts,  both  injurious  to  health, 
are  frequently  employed  to  give  canned 
vegetables  a  natural  green  color.  This 
may,  according  to  a  new  invention,  be 
accomplished  by  adding  chlorophyl, 
the  natural  coloring  matter  of  vegeta- 
bles. Immerse  green  leaves  in  dilute 
caustic  soda  lye,  and  compound  the 
fluid  with  alum.  Wash  the  precipitate 
and  dissolve  it  with  potassium  phos- 
phate and  alkaline  eart  is.  By  adding 
the  solution  to  the  boiJ.ng  vegetables 
sufficient  chlorophyl  is  absorbed  by 
them  to  retain  their  natural  green  color. 
The  great  advantage  of  this  method  is 
that  no  foreign  substance  is  added,  but 
only  one  natural  to  the  plant  and  in- 
noxious. 

New  Process  of  Preparing  Preserva- 
tive Salt.  Melt  together  4  equivalents 
of  crystallized  boracic  acid  and  1  equiva- 
lent of  sodium  phosphate,  and  add  salt- 
petre and  common  salt. 

To  preserve  fresh  meat  of  any  kind 
remove  first  all  bones,  and  then  scatter 
the  preservative  salt  over  the  surface 
and  into  all  hollows. 

The  meat  may  also  be  placed  for  i 
hour  in  a  solution  of  the  preservative 
salt  in  the  proportion  of  1  to  6,  or  about 
10  tablespoonfuls  of  the  salt  dissolved 
in  1  quart  of  water,  and  then  wrapped 
up  in  a  linen  cloth  moistened  with  the 
solution  and  hung  up  in  the  air ;  or  it 
may  be  placed  in  a  pot  or  barrel,  the 
solution  poured  over  it  and  allowed  to 
remain  until  it  is  to  be  used.  For  1 
pound  of  meat  1  teaspoonful  of  the 
salt  is  required. 

New  Method  of  Preserving  Sugar 
Beets,  Potatoes,  and  other  Tubers,  the 
beets,  potatoes,  etc.,  are  piled  up  and 
covered,  not  as  formerly  with  straw  or 
earth,  but  with  a  sufficient  layer  of  the 
following  mixture  :  Coal  cinders  con- 
verted into  coarse  powder  80  per  cent, 
and  lime  slaked  to  a  fine  powder  with 


312 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


as  little  water  as  possible  20  per  cent., 
and  intimately  mixed. 

Preserving  Lemon  Juice.  I.  Keep 
the  filtered  juice,  before  it  has  passed 
into  fermentation  without  adding  alco- 
hol, in  a  bottle  hermetically  sealed. 
II.  Heat  the  fresh  juice  not  com- 
pounded with  alcohol  in  a  closed  ves- 
sel to  the  boiling  point.  III.  Com- 
pound the  unfermented  juice  with  10 
per  cent,  of  alcohol,  and  heat  as 
m  No.  II.  IV.  Fill  the  fermented 
juice  in  bottles  without  an  addition  of 
alcohol  and  without  heating.  V.  Heat 
the  fermented  juice  without  an  addition 
of  alcohol  in  a  closed  vessel  to  the  boil- 
ing point.  VI.  Compound  the  fer- 
mented juice  with  10  per  cent,  of  alco- 
hol and  heat  as  in  No.  V.  All  these 
methods  furnish  a  juice  which,  when  j 
mixed  with  sugar  syrup  in  the  proper- 1 
tion  of  5  dract  ms  of  juice  to  5  ounces  I 
of  sugar-syrup  and  the  necessary  quan-  i 
tity  of  water,  give  lemonades  of  a  fine 
flavor. 

Process  of  Preparing  Preserved  Cat- 
tle-feed from  Agricultural  Products 
and  Waste.  Bran,  malt-germs,  brewers' 
grains,  residues  from  the  manufacture 
of  oil,  and  of  beet  sugar,  and  of  potato 
and  corn  starch  are  mixed  with  each 
other  in  water,  so  that  in  the  mixture 
the  proportion  of  proteine  substances  to 
the  carbo-hydrates  is  as  1  to  3  or  4  in  52 
to  53  per  cent,  of  dry  substance.  To  1 
pound  of  dry  substance  is  added  i 
drachm  of  salt  and  some  calcium  phos- 
phate ;  the  mass  is  then  crushed  and 
E  laced  in  a  reservoir,  where  it  is  al- 
>wed  to  heat  spontaneously  until  a 
homogeneous  compound  is  formed, 
which  is  pressed  into  cakes  and  dried. 

Rapid  Process  of  Corning  Meat  on  a 
small  Scale.  Mix  16  parts  of  common 
salt,  i  of  saltpetre,  and  1  of  sugar.  Roll 
the  meat  in  the  mixture  so  that  it  is 
uniformly  covered.  Then  wrap  it  in  a 
linen  cloth  and  put  it  in  a  covered  pot. 
Turn  the  meat  several  times  every  day. 
In  8  days  it  will  be  thoroughly  pickled. 
To  Dry  Fruit  by  means  of  a  Cold  Air- 
blast.  Pared  apples,  etc.,  are  submitted 
in  a  sieve-like  holder  to  the  action  of  a 
cold  air-blast  for  3£  hours.  Excellent 
dried  fruit,  much  superior  to  that  dried 
jn  the  sun  or  by  means  of  hot  air,  is 
prepared  by  this  process. 

To  Pack  Apples  and  other  Fruit  to 


be  transported  to  distant  places.  Wrap 
each  fruit  separately  in  salicy  lized  paper 
and  pack  carefully,  so  that  in  rolling 
r  moving  the  barrel  the  fruit  are  not 
n  against  each  other.  The  salicy- 
ized paper  is  prepared  by  dissolving 
salicylic  acid  in  strong  alcohol,  and 
compounding  the  solution  with  as  much 
water  as  it  will  bear  without  reprecipi- 
tating  the  salicylic  acid.  The  paper 
is  then  saturated  with  the  solution  and 
dried.  The  object  of  the  salicylic  acid 
is  to  prevent  the  rotting  of  fruit  injured 
by  careless  handling  in  packing. 

To  Preserve  the  Blood  from  Meat- 
cattle.  The  fresh  blood  to  be  preserved 
is  mixed  with  pulverized  unslaked 
lime.  The  lime  being  slaked  in  the 
blood  is  precipitated  in  a  short  time, 
while  the  blood  is  converted  into  a 
homogeneous  jelly-like  compound, 
which  can  be  easily  separated  from 
the  lime-precipitate,  dried,  and  then 
used  as  a  nutritious  food. 

To  Preserve  Burnt  Jnme.  A  layer 
of  lime  slaked  to  a  powder  is  spread 
to  the^  depth  of  6  to  8  inches  upon  the 
floor  of  a  shed  protected  from  all  moist- 
ure. Upon  this  layer  are  piled  the 
pieces  of  lime  to  be  preserved  and 
pressed  as  closely  together  as  possible. 
The  uppermost  layer  should  have  a 
slight  slant.  On  the  top  is  also  placed 
a  layer  of  lime  slightly  moistened, 
which  is  thereby  converted  into  pow- 
der and  falls  into  the  interstices  of  the 
heap,  protecting  it  from  the  access  of 
air  and  moisture.  Experiments  on  a 
large  scale  have  proved  that  this  proc- 
ess is  practicable,  and  makes  the  keep- 
ing of  burned  lime  during  the  winter 
possible  without  losing  any  of  its  good 
qualities. 

To  Preserve  Butter  for  Transatlantic 
Transport  pack  it  in  tin  cans  capable 
of  holding  from  2  to  30  pounds.  The 
cans  should  be  lined  with  wood  satu- 
rated with  brine,  and,  when  filled,  the 
lid  must  be  soldered  down. 

To  Preserve  Butter.  Several  Methods. 
I.  Cover  the  butter  with  a  layer  of 
metallic  (iron)  sponge  and  water,  so 
that  the  air  can  only  reach  the  butter 
by  passing  through  it. 

II.  Dissolve  1  part  of  sodium  meta- 
phosphate  in  water  and  mix  it  inti' 
mately  with  240  parts  of  butter. 

To  Preserve  Eggs.  I.  In  China,  accord- 


PRESERVATIVES  FOR  MEAT,  ETC. 


313 


ing  to  Itier,  the  eggs  are  placed  in  a 
saturated  solution  of  common  salt,  and 
allowed  to  remain  in  it  until  they  sink 
down.  They  are  then  taken  out,  dried, 
and  packed  in  boxes.  The  eggs,  \^en 
boiled,  are  salted  to  the  taste. 

II.  Sack  recommends  the  coating  of 
the  eggs  with  paraffine,  1  pound  being 
sufficient  for   1500  eggs.      Fresh    and 
sound  eggs  are  of  course  required  for 
the  process,  as  decomposition  once  com- 
menced would  progress  notwithstand- 
ing the  coating  of  paraffine. 

III.  Marsh  dissolves  in  each  gallon  of 
water  12  ounces  of  quicklime,  G  ounces 
of  common  salt,  1  drachm  of  soda,  i 
drachm  of  saltpetre,  i  drachm  of  tar- 
tar, and    1^   drachms  of  borax.     The 
fluid  is  brought  into  a  barrel  and  suffi- 
cient quicklime  to  cover  the  bottom  is 
then  poured  in.     Upon  this  is  placed 
a   layer  of   eggs,   quicklime   is  again 
thrown  in  and  so  on  until  the  bai'rel  is 
filled,  so  that  the  liquor  stands  about 
10  inches  deep  over  the  last  layer  of 
egg-;.     The  barrel  is  then  covered  with 
a  cloth  upon  which  is  also  scattered 
some  lime. 

IV.  Eggs  immersed  in  a  solution  of 
1|  drachms  of  iodate  of  calcium  in  1 
gallon  of  water  were   not   to   be  dis- 
tinguished after  a  month  by  smell  or 
taste   from  perfectly  fresh  eggs ;    how 
much  longer  than  a  month  they  may 
be  thus  preserved  experience  only  can 
determine. 

To  Preserve  Fish.  Freshly  caught 
herring  immersed  in  a  solution  of  1£ 
drachms  of  iodate  of  calcium  in  1  gal- 
lon of  water  remain  perfectly  good  in 
hot  weather  for  about  4  days,  when  they 
begin  to  change  slowly.  If  dry  iodate 
of  calcium  is  sprinkled  over  the  fish, 
U  to  3  grains  to  a  dozen  fish,  instead  of 
immersing  them  in  the  solution,  the 
result  is  the  same,  and  in  neither  case 
is  it  possible  to  detect  the  slightest 
foreign  flavor  in  the  taste  of  the  fish. 
If  salt  herrings  are  first  soaked  in  water 
long  enough  to  remove  as  much  of  the 
salt  as  is  considered  desirable,  and  then 
immersed  in  a  solution  of  iodate  of  cal- 
cium for  24  hours,  they  lose  their  dis- 
agreeable rancid  flavor,  and  are  com- 
pletely restored  to  the  flavor  they  had 
when  freshly  caught. 

To  Preserve  Fluids  containing  Nu- 
tritive Substances.  The  residues  from 


the  manufacture  of  alcohol  and  of  com- 
pressed yeast  are  filtered,  passed 
through  the  centrifugal,  or  pressed. 
For  filtering,  a  system  of  pits  is  used  in 
connection  with  a  collecting- well.  The 
residue  flows  from  the  distilling  ap- 
paratus into  the  filtering  pits  a  (Fig. 
396),  The  substance  is  retained  here 
while  the  water  charged  with  the  sol- 

1H- 


Fig.  396.3 

uble  nutritive  substances  contained  in 
the  residues  enters  through  the  filter- 
ing layer  c  and  the  pipe  d  into  the  col- 
lecting-well 6,  where,  by  means  of  the 
stirring  apparatus  e,  it  is  mixed  with  a 
suitable  alkali,  and  neutralized  to  a 
weak  alkaline  reaction.  This  water 
containing  in  solution  more  than  i  of 
the  nutritive  substances  contained  in 
the  residues  is  used  as  ordinary  feed 
water  of  the  boiler  of  the  distillery,  to 
which  it  is  conveyed  by  the  suction- 
pipe  /  of  a  pump.  When  it  has  ob- 
tained the  desired  percentage  of  nutri- 
tive substances  it  is  used  for  scalding 
feed,  and  the  animals  are  fed  with  this 
either  with  or  without  an  admixture 
of  the  dry  substance  of  the  residues. 

When  the  pit  a  is  full  it  is  covered 
with  several  layers  of  hard  burnt 
bricks,  which,  after  a  few  days,  are 
covered  with  clay  or  potter's  clay,  to 
protect  the  dry  substance  as  much  as 
i  possible  from  oxidation  by  excluding 
the  air. 

The  water  from  starch  factories  is  also 

concentrated  and  the  concentrated  fluid 

j  is  used  for  scalding  and  changing  the 

1  pulp  into  paste,  whereby  it  becomes 

suitable  to  be  used  as  an  addition  to 

mashes  or,  directly,  as  cattle-feed. 

The  waste-water  containing  nutri- 
tive substances  of  breweries,  sugar 
houses,  etc.,  may  be  concentrated  and 
utilized  in  a  similar  manner. 

To  Preserve  Hops.     Press  the  hops, 


314 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


as  soon  as  dry,  into  wooden  boxes 
made  air-tight  with  rosin  or  pitch, 
close  the  box  hermetically,  and  do 
not  open  it  until  the  hops  are  to  be 


To  Preserve  Meat.  I.  Wrap  the 
flesh  in  a  cover  of  gelatine  or  parch- 
ment paper  made  insoluble  by  treat- 
ment with  potassium  bichromate. 

II.  To  preserve  meat  to  be  used  as 
food,  Wickersheimer  has  patented  the 
following  process:    A  solution  of   36 
parts  of  potash,  15  parts  of  common  salt, 
and  60  parts  of  alum  in  3000  parts  of 
water,  is  heated  to  120°  F.,  then  mixed 
with  another  solution  of  9  parts  of  sal- 
icylic acid  in  45  parts  of  methyl  alco- 
hol, to  which  have  been  added  250  parts 
of  glycerine.     The  animal  to  be  pre- 
served is  injected  with  this  fluid  before 
it  is  opened.    For  smaller  animals  100 
parts  of  the  fluid  are  used  for  every  1000 
parts  of  dead  weight,  while  larger  ani- 
mals require  less.    In  small  animals, 
as  fish,  fowl,  etc.,  the  fluid  is  injected 
before  they  are  killed  directly  into  the 
heart  with  a  syringe  provided  with  a 
sharp  point,  while  in  large  animals  it 
is  injected  after  they  are  killed  into 
one  of  the  cervical  arteries.     For  cattle 
and  pigs  2  to  3  parts  of  saltpetre  must 
be  added  to  the  fluid.    The  meat  of 
animals  thus  treated  keeps  perfectly 
fresh  for  2  to  3  weeks.     If  it  is  to  be 
preserved    for    a    longer    time    more 
methyl-alcohol  must  be  used,  and  12 
parts  of  salicylic  acid  instead  of  9  parts, 
and  450  parts  of  glycerine  instead  of 
250  parts.     To  preserve  animal    sub- 
stances not  to  be  used  for  food  the  fol- 
lowing solution  is  used:   Eighty  parts 
of  potash,  60  parts  of  common  salt,  30 
parts   of  saltpetre,  and   160  parts  of 
alum  in  6000  parts  of  water.     The  so- 
lution is  heated  to  120°  F.,  and  com- 
pounded with  a  solution  of  18  parts  of 
salicylic  acid  in  600  parts  of  methyl- 
alcohol,  and  finally  60  parts  of  carbolic 
acid  and  1800    parts  of  glycerine  are 
added. 

III.  Inject  the  meat  with  a  saturated 
solution  of  boracic  acid  in  cold  water, 
and  sprinkle  pulverized  boracic  acid 
over  it.      The  effect  of  the  solution 
is    increased  by  an  addition  of  some 
common  salt  and  saltpetre,  which  helps 
especially  to  preserve  the  natural  ap- 
pearance of  the  meat.   The  meat  treated 


thus  shows  no  sign  of  decomposition, 
and  no  change  can  be  detected  even  by 
a  microscopical  examination. 

IV.  Excellent  results  have  been  ob. 
tained  by  using  powdered  acetate  of  so- 
dium.    The  meat  is  placed  in  a  barrel 
and  the  acetate  put  in,  when  it  is  left  for 
48   hours.     Thus  prepared,  it  is  said, 
the  meat  will  keep  for  any  length  of 
time,  and  will  be  ready  for  cooking  by 
soaking  for  12  hours  in  water,  to  every 
1000  parts  of  which  7  parts  of  sal-am- 
moniac are  added. 

V.  Meat    and    other    organic    sub- 
stances can  be  preserved  by  adding  to 
them    a  minute  quantity  of  fuchsine. 
Pieces  of  beef  enveloped  in  blotting- 
paper  soaked  with  gelatine  and  fuchsine 
were   found  to  keep  unaltered.      By 
being  soaked  in  water  for  24  hours  the 
beef  became  perfectly  fresh,  and  fur- 
nished a  soup  in  which  no  disagreeable 
flavor  could  be  detected. 

To  Preserve  Meat  and  Vegetables  for 
some  time  put  a  small  quantity  of 
cleansed  iron  filings  in  a  pot,  pour 
clean  boiled  water  over  them,  then  put 
in  the  meat  or  green  vegetables,  so  that 
the  water  stands  over  them,  and,  to 
prevent  the  access  of  air,  pour  a  layer 
of  oil  upon  the  water.  According  to 
many  experiments  made  meat  treated 
thus  preserved  its  good  taste  for  seven 
weeks  and  had  the  appearance  of  being 
recently  killed.  Vegetables  can  be 
treated  in  the  same  manner  without  in- 
jury- 

To  Preserve  Milk.  I.  Add  to  milk 
evaporated  to  J  its  volume  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  100°  to  120°  F.,  in  a  vacuum,  a 
solution  of  benzoate  of  magnesium  and 
preserve  the  mixture  in  hermetically- 
closed  vessels. 

II.  The  addition  of  a  small  quantity 
of  boracic  acid  to  milk  retards  the  sep"- 
aration  of  cream,  and  the  milk  retains 
its  sweetness  for  several  days. 

To  Preserve  Vegetables  and  Fruits. 
Dissolve  1  part  of  common  salt  in  100 
of  water,  boil  the  solution  and  heat  the 
steam  evolved  by  it  to  a  temperature  of 
200°  to  400°  F.,  according  to  the  vege- 
table substance  to  be  treated,  and  ex- 
pose the  latter  to  the  superheated  steam 
5  to  18  minutes.  Such  vegetable  mat- 
ters as  albumen,  caseine,  chlorophyl, 
bassorin  (vegetable  mucus)  are  dis- 
solved and  float  on  the  surface,  from 


PRESERVATIVES  FOR  MEAT,  ETC. 


315 


which  they  are  afterwards  removed  by  | 
means  of  clear,  running  water  The 
vegetables  and  fruits  as  soon  as  dry  are 
pressed  and  packed.  For  many  plants 
it  is  better  to  place  them  in  brine  com- 
posed of  1  part  of  common  salt  and  35 
of  water,  which,  by  the  introduction  of 
steam,  is  kept  at  a  temperature  of  400° 
F.  For  washing  a  vat  is  used,  through 
which  runs  constantly  a  stream  of  pure 
water  of  a  temperature  of  40°  to  50°  F. 
Vegetables  and  fruits  prepared  in  this 
way  retain  their  color  and  taste  for  a 
very  long  time. 

To  Prevent,  the  Formation  of  Mould 
on  Fruit  Jellies.  Scatter  upon  the  sur- 
face of  the  jelly  a  layer  of  pulverized 
sugar  about  i  inch  thick,  and  tie  up 
the  jar  with  bladder  or  waxed  paper. 

Two  New  Kinds  of  Preservative 
Papers  have  recently  been  introduced 
in  commerce.  One  is  obtained  by  im- 
mersing soft  paper  in  a  bath  of  strong 
solution  of  salicylic  acid  in  alcohol  with 
as  much  water  as  it  will  bear  without 
re-precipitating  the  acid,  and  then  dry- 
ing it  in  the  air.  This  paper  is  used 
for  wrapping  up  fruits,  etc. 

For  the  other  paper,  which  is  used  as 
a  protection  against  moths  and  mildew, 
it  is  best  to  use  strong  vanilla  wrap- 
ping-paper, which  is  immersed  in  a 
bath  and  then  dried  by  passing  over 
hot  rollers.  This  bath  consists  of  90 
parts  of  tar-oil,  5  of  crude  carbolic 
acid  containing  phenole  about  one-half 
its  volume,  20  of  coal  tar  at  a  temper- 
ature of  158°  F.,  and  5  of  refined  petro- 
leum. 

To  Smoke  Beef.  Put  the  meat  freshly 
killed  and  while  still  warm  into  a  mixt- 
ure of  1  part  of  pulverized  saltpetre 
and  32  of  common  salt,  work  it  thor- 
oughly, and  scatter  upon  it  as  much 
rye  bran  as  will  adhere  to  it,  and  then 
hang  it,  either  with  or  without  an  en- 
velope of  paper,  in  the  smoke-house. 
The  empyreumatic  constituents  of  the 
smoke  are  prevented  by  the  bran  from 
reaching  the  meat  and  drying  it  out 
too  much.  The  meat  thus  treated  has 
an  excellent  taste  and  appearance. 

To  Preserve  Vine  Props  and  Wine- 
Barrels  by  Impregnating  the  Wood. 
The  purpose  of  impregnating  vine 
props  is  a  double  one,  namely,  to  pre- 
serve the  props  themselves,  and  by  the 
different  chemicals  used  in  impregna- 


tion to  keep  away  insects  injurious  to 
the  vine 

For  Vine  Props.  Impregnation  with 
Linseed  Oil.  The  props  are  coated  with 
linseed  oil,  to  which  enough  pulverized 
wood-charcoal  has  been  added  to  give 
it  the  consistency  of  oil-paint.  This 
process  protects  the  wood  from  rotting 
for  a  number  of  years. 

Process  with  Preparations  of  Lime. 
The  wood  is  first  saturated  with  soap- 
water  and  then  treated  with  a  solution 
of  a  calcium  salt  or  immersed  in  an 
acid.  The  combinations  of  calcium 
sebates  separated  in  the  wood  itself,  it 
is  said,  protect  it  against  moisture  and 
the  attacks  of  insects.  Diluted  milk 
of  lime  is  aJso  claimed  as  an  impreg- 
nating agent.  Even  lime  slaked  in  a 
solution  of  calcium  chloride  is  used  as 
a  wash  for  protecting  vine  props ;  or 
the  wood  to  be  impregnated  is  covered 
with  burnt  lime,  which  is  gradually 
slaked  with  water.  The  wood  remains 
in  this  8  days. 

Common  Salt  is  the  simplest  impreg- 
nating agent.  The  wood,  well  sea- 
soned, is  either  immersed  in  a  strong 
solution  of  salt  or  painted  with  it.  The 
part  of  the  prop  set  in  the  ground  is 
surrounded  with  a  layer  of  salt  which 
is  gradually  dissolved  by  earth  moist- 
ure and  absorbed  by  the  wood.  Wood 
thus  treated,  it  is  claimed,  is  not  at- 
tacked by  insects. 

Solution  of  Sulphate  of  Copper.  The 
posts  to  be  impregnated  are  first 
pointed  and  then  immersed  in  a  solu- 
tion of  3i  Ibs.  of  sulphate  of  copper  in 
40  gallons  of  water.  This  process  is 
especially  adapted  for  soft  and  cheap 
varieties  of  wood,  as  acacia,  pine,  and, 
on  account  of  their  porosity,  for  larch, 
beach,  cherry,  poplar,  alder,  etc. 

Coal  Tar.  A  new  process  is  as  fol- 
lows :  Wood  cut  in  winter  and  as  well 
seasoned  as  possible  is  immersed  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  in  the  following 
mixture :  To  every  50  parts  of  coal  tar 
boiling  hot  add  3  parts  of  common 
salt,  5  parts  of  sulphate  of  iron,  3  parts 
of  alum,  and  13  parts  of  rosin;  mix 
thoroughly  and  boil  the  compound 
down  to  the  proper  consistency.  As 
soon  as  the  wood  is  taken  from  this 
compound  a  powder  consisting  of  the 
following  ingredients  is  spread  over  it : 
Coal  cinders,  very  hard  and  thoroughly 


316 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


burned,  50  parts,  sulphate  of  iron  pul- 
verized 5  parts,  lime  pulverized  15 
parts,  and  glass  pulverized  any  desired 
quantity.  The  wood  thus  prepared  is 
stored  in  a  dry  place. 

Rosin.  Heat  25  parts  of  rosin  in  an 
iron  boiler  together  with  2  parts  of  lin- 
seed oil,  and  add  with  constant  stir- 
ring 150  parts  of  white  sand,  and  finally 
1  part  of  sulphuric  acid  and  a  like 
quantity  of  oxide  of  copper  ground  fine. 
The  whole  is  then  intimately  mixed 
and  applied  while  still  hot  to  the 
wood. 

New  Preservative  for  Wood,  to  pre- 
vent it  from  rotting,  is  prepared  as  fol- 
lows: Boil  in  an  iron  boiler  4  to  8 
parts  of  linseed  oil  with  50  of  rosin,  40 
of  whiting,  and  200  to  300  of  sharp, 
white  sand,  and,  when  the  paste  is 
thoroughly  boiled,  add  1  part  of  red 
oxide  of  copper  and  1  part  of  sulphuric 
acid ;  stir  the  mixture  thoroughly  and 
apply  it  while  hot  to  the  wood  with  a 
stiff  brush.  The  coating  dries  imme- 
diately and  forms  an  indestructible 
crust  as  hard  as  stone. 

To  Restore  the  Original  Natural 
Color  of  Old  Parquet  Floors.  Boil  1 
part  of  calcined  soda  for  £  hour  with 
1  part  of  slaked  lime  and  15  of  water ; 
mop  the  floor  with  the  caustic  soda  lye 
thus  obtained.  When  nearly  dry  scrub 
the  floor  with  a  hard  brush  and  fine 
sand  and  water  in  order  to  remove  the 
old  wax  and  all  other  impurities. 
Next  mix  1  part  of  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid  and  8  of  water  and  apply 
the  mixture  to  the  floor.  The  sulphuric 
acid  revivifies  the  color  of  the  wood  by 
forming  a  combination  with  the  brown 
substance  and  the  earthy  parts  which 
may  have  penetrated  into  the  wood. 
When  the  floor  is  dry  scrub  it  once 
with  water,  and  when  dry  wax  it  in  the 
usual  manner. 


SEALING-WAX  AND  WAFERS. 

Good  sealing-wax  should  be  smooth, 
glossy,  and  not  brittle;  when  held  in  a 
flame  it  should  melt  without  dropping 
or  charring,  and  retain,  after  cooling,  a 
certain  degree  of  elasticity.  Its  color 
must  not  change  by  melting,  the  wax 
must  not  adhere  to  the  seal,  and  the 
impression  should  be  sharp  and  clear. 


It  is  perfumed  with  benzoin,  Peru- 
vian balsam,  mastic,  musk,  etc.  An 
addition  of  2  percent,  of  benzoin  and  1 
per  cent,  of  Peruvian  balsam  imparts 
a  very  agreeable  odor  to  sealing-wax. 
The  perfume  can  be  much  varied  by  an 
admixture  of  small  quantities  of  essen- 
tial oils,  oil  of  peppermint  and  essential 
oil  of  almonds  being  especially  effica- 
cious. 

The  poorest  qualities  of  sealing-wax 
are  known  as  "  parcel  wax  "  and  "  bot- 
tle wax."  The  first  is  prepared  from 
gallipot,  turpentine,  shellac,  pulverized 
eavy  spar,  and  pigments,  and  the  lat- 
ter of  the  same  materials  with  the  ex- 
ception of  shellac. 

We  give  in  the  following  a  number 
of  receipts  for  all  kinds  which  have 
been  tested  and  can  be  recommended. 

Black  (Fine  No.  I.)  I.  Venetian  tur- 
pentine 183  parts,  shellac  300,  rosin 
16.5,  and  the  necessary  quantity  of 
lampblack  mixed  with  oil  of  turpen- 
tine. 

II.  Shellac  1295  parts,  bone-black 
1085,  chalk  245,  rosin  630,  turpentine 
665. 

Black  No.  II.  Fifty  parts  of  shellac, 
a  like  quantity  of  Venetian  turpentine 
or  rosin,  and  25  parts  of  bone-black. 

Black  ( Ordinary ).  Shel  1  ac  1 8  parts, 
Venetian  turpentine  or  white  rosin  10, 
whiting  8,  and  calcined  lampblack  2. 

Blue  (Dark).  I.  Venetian  turpen- 
tine 100  parts,  rosm  33,  shellac  233, 
mineral  blue  33. 

II.  Shellac  1  part,  Burgundy  pitch 
i,  dammar  1,  Venetian  turpentine  i. 

III.  (  Very  Light).    Bleached  shellac 
157i  parts,  turpentine  525,  mastic  385, 
calcined  mica  350,  ultramarine  262£. 

IV.  (  Very  Dark).     Bleached  shellac 
122.5  parts,    turpentine    210,  Spanish 
chalk  105,  mastic  752.5,  calcined  mica 
70,  cobalt  blue  420. 

Brown.  I.  Shellac  1068  parts,  rosin 
560,  cinnabar  175,  turpentine  910, 
gypsum  525,  lampblack  122.5. 

II.  Shellac  1085  parts,  rosin  660. 
red  bole  140,  turpentine  840,  gypsum 
490,  minium  140. 

Brown  (Dark).  Venetian  turpen- 
tine 133  parts,  shellac  250,  brown  rotten- 
stone  50,  and  magnesia  mixed  with  oil 
of  turpentine  5. 

Brown  (Light).  I.  Venetian  tur- 
pentine 133  parts,  brown  mineral  color 


SEALING-WAX  AND  WAFERS. 


317 


33,  whiting  16.5,  shellac  250,  cinnabar 
16.5,  magnesia  3. 

II.  Venetian  turpentine  133  parts, 
shellac  233,  rosin  100,  rottenstone 
50,  cinnabar  8,  whiting  33,  and  magne- 
sia 3. 

Crimson.  Venetian  turpentine  66.5 
parts,  shellac  133,  colophony  33,  car- 
mine 50,  magnesia  mixed  with  oil  of 
turpentine  3. 

Gold.  I.  Shellac  1260  parts,  turpen- 
tine 1295,  rosin  700,  mastic  35,  Dutch 
gold  cut  up  fine  70. 

II.  Shellac  6  parts,   white  rosin  2, 
and  silver  leaf  1.     The  brown  color  of 
the  resins  imparts  a  golden  tint  to  the 
silver. 

III.  Shellac  1085  parts,  rosin   1015, 
turpentine  1120,  chrome-green  35,  mag- 
nesia 17.5,  gold  leaf  87.5. 

Green.  I.  Shellac  980  parts,  turpen- 
tine 560,  rosin  525,  gypsum  315,  min- 
eral blue  420,  massicot  560. 

II.  Shellac  1295  parts,  rosin  315,  tur- 
pentine 910,  chalk  420,  chrome-green 
420. 

Red  ( Very  Fine  No.  I.}.  1.  Vene- 
tian turpentine  133  parts,  shellac  233, 
cinnabar  83,  chalk  mixed  with  oil  of 
turpentine  3. 

2.  Shellac  100  parts,  white  rosin  and 
prepared  cinnabar  each  50  parts. 

3.  Turpentine  1050  parts,  shellac  1138 
parts,  oil  of  turpentine  26  parts,  sparry 
gypsum  350  parts. 

Red  No.  II.  Venetian  turpentine 
133  parts,  shellac  216,  cinnabar  83, 
colophony  16,  chalk  rubbed  with  oil 
of  turpentine  3. 

II.  Shellac  58  parts,  Venetian  tur- 
pentine 87.5,  cinnabar  43,  magnesia 
rubbed  up  with  oil  of  turpentine  3. 

Red  No.  If  I.  I.  Venetian  turpen- 
tine 133  parts,  rosin  75,  shellac  200, 
cinnabar  58,  chalk  rubbed  up  with  oil 
of  turpentine  3. 

II.  Shellac  1200  parts,  oil  of  turpen- 
tine  66.5,  chalk   100,   turpentine  650, 
calcined  sparrv  irvp.sum  150,  magnesia 
200-,  cinnabar  866.0. 

III.  Shellac    884    parts,    turpentine 
1166.5,  chalk  500,  fine  gypsum  333,  cin- 
nabar 216.5. 

Red  No.  IV.  Venetian  turpentine 
133  parts,  shellac  200,  rosin  and  cin- 
nabar each  50,  chalk  rubbed  up  with 
'oil  of  turpentine  3. 

Red  No.    V.     Venetian   turpentine 


133  parts,  shellac  183,  rosin  50,  cin- 
nabar 40,  chalk  rubbed  up  with  oil  of 
turpentine  3. 

Red  (Ordinary}.  I.  Shellac  533 
parts,  rosin  266.5,  turpentine  666.5, 
gypsum  133,  cinnabar  833. 

II.  Shellac  910  parts,  rosin  770,  tur- 
pentine 1050,  chalk  and  cinnabar  each. 
315. 

Rose  Color.  Shellac  61  parts,  Munich 
Iake4,  tin-ash  17.5,fiake-white52,  wiiite 
flake  (the  finest  white  lead)  17.5. 

Violet.  Shellac  245  parts,  turpenti  ne 
122.5,  mineral  blue  79,  white  flake  52, 
flake-white  35,  Munich  lake  9. 

White.  Bleached  shellac  560  parts> 
turpentine  280,  Spanish  chalk  192.5, 
magnesia  17.5,  flake-white  245,  white 
lead  350. 

Yellow.  I.  Venetian  turpentine  3 
parts,  shellac  3i,  elutriated  massicot  3. 

II.  Venetian  turpentine  66.5  parts, 
colophony  41.5,  shellac   133,  massicot 
24.5,  magnesia  rubbed  up  with  oil  of 
turpentine  2.5. 

III.  Shellac   1085  parts,   rosin  700, 
turpentine  560,  gypsum   175,   minium 
507.5,  magnesia  35,  and  chrome-yellow 
297.5. 

Transparent  Sealing-wax.  The  best 
quality  of  bleached  shellac  and  other 
materials  must  be  used  for  making  this 
kind  of  wax.  A  mixture  of  bleached 
shellac,  mastic,  and  very  fine,  viscid, 
light-colored  turpentine  gives  the  trans- 
parency. In  the  following  we  give 
several  receipts  for  preparing  the 
ground  mass  for  transparent  sealing- 
wax,  which  may  be  colored  as  desired 
by  mixing  with  suitable  coloring 
matters : 

I.  Bleached  shellac  30  parts,  turpen- 
tine 30,  mastic  60,  chalk  20. 

II.  Bleached  shellac  30,  turpentine 
35,  mastic  40,  and  zinc  white  20. 

III.  Bleached  shellac  15,  turpentine 
20,  mastic  25,  sulphate  of  barium  or 
nitrate  of  bismuth  30. 

Gold  or  Silver  Transparent  Sealing- 
wax  is  obtained  by  mixing  finely  pul- 
verized leaf-metal  with  one  of  the  above 
ground  masses. 

Aventurine  Sealing-wax.  This  beau- 
tiful variety  of  transparent  sealing-wax 
is  obtained  by  stirring  finely  powdered 
yellow  or  bronze-colored  mica  into  one 
of  the  above  ground  masses. 

Parcel    Sealing-wax.      Light    Red, 


318 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Common  rosin  1120  parts,  turpentine 
280,  better  quality  of  rosin  280,  chalk 
840,  and  brick  dust  840. 

Dark  Red-brown.  Rosin  1540  parts, 
chalk  420,  turpentine  875,  bole  560. 

Light  Red-brown.  Common  rosin 
1120  parts,  better  quality  of  rosin  and 
turpentine  each  280,  chalk  and  colcothar 
each  980. 

Very  Dark  Brown.  Shellac  1120 
parts,  turpentine  525,  pitch  455,  chalk 
735,  umber  560. 

Cheap  Parcel  Sealing-wax.  Heat 
333  parts  of  ordinary  turpentine,  melt 
in  this  500  parts  of  shellac,  and  add 
minium  sufficient  to  give  a  fine  color. 

Another  Receipt.  Shellac  133  parts, 
rosin  1.5,  turpentine  83,  cinnabar  0.8, 
chalk  100. 

Melt  the  shellac  and  turpentine  over 
a  moderate  fire  and  stir  into  the  mixture 
the  chalk  and  cinnabar  previously 
mixed  together.  -When  the  compound 
is  cooled  off  so  far  that  a  portion  taken 
out  with  the  stirring  implement  can  be 
handled  without  sticking  to  the  fingers 
roll  it  out  into  sticks  upon  a  board 
without  wetting  the  board  or  the  hands. 

Bottle  Sealing-wax.  Melt  together 
white  pitch  2  parts,  yellow  wax  and 
pine  resin  each  4,  and  turpentine  2. 

Or:  Pine  resin  10  parts  and  yellow 
wax  and  turpentine  each  2. 

The  mixture  is  colored  red  with  2 
parts  of  red  ochre ;  green,  with  Berlin 
blue  and  chromate  of  zinc  each  1  part ; 
blue,  with  ultramarine  2  parts. 

Black.  I.  Black  rosin  6  parts  by 
weight,  wax  £,  lampblack  H. 

II.  White  pitch  2  parts,  yellow  wax 
and  pine  rosin  of  each  4,  turpentine  2, 
bone-black  1. 

The  following  receipt  gives  the  best 
mixture  for  hermetically  closing  bottles 
containing  alcoholic  beverages:  Melt 
2  parts  of  yellow  wax  and  then  add  4 
each  of  rosin  and  pitch.  When  the 
whole  is  thinly  fluid,  dip  the  neck  of 
the  bottle  in  the  compound  and  turn  it 
horizontally.  Some  wine  merchants  in 
Champagne  give  more  transparency 
and  a  finer  color  to  the  mixture  by 
adding  2  parts  of  shellac. 

Bronze  Sealing-wax  for  Bottles.  Melt 
1000  parts  of  colored  bottle  sealing-wax 
over  a  moderate  fire  and  add  100  to  200 
of  pulverized  mica  or  bronze  powder. 

Substitute  for   Bottle   Sealing-wax. 


Mix  gypsum  40  parts,  white  cement  60 
parts,  chalk  30  parts,  dextrine  20  parts, 
spirit-varnish  500  parts,  and  sufficient 
coloring  matter  to  give  the  desired 
color.  Dip  the  necks  of  the  bottles  into 
the  mixture  and  let  them  dry. 

WAFERS.  There  are  two  modes  of 
manufacturing  wafers,  a.  With  wheat 
flour  and  water  for  the  ordinary  kind, 
and,  b,  with  gelatine.  The  manufact- 
ure presents  no  difficulty.  The  tools 
required  are,  1,  a  species  of  waffle  iron, 
consisting  of  2  plates  of  iron  which 
come  together  like  pincers,  leaving  a 
small  space  between  them ;  and,  2,  an- 
nular punches  of  diiferent  sizes,  with 
sharp  edges  to  cut  the  prepared  paste 
into  wafers. 

White  Wafers.  Grease  and  slightly 
heat  the  iron  plates  and  fill  them  with 
a  thin  dough  made  of  the  finest  white 
flour  and  water,  close  and  expose  them 
to  a  charcoal  fire.  When  cooled  off, 
open  them  and  remove  the  thin  dry 
cake  and  punch  out  the  wafers. 

Colored  Wafers  are  prepared  in  the 
same  manner  except  that  the  coloring 
matter  is  mixed  with  the  dough,  and 
the  flour  need  not  be  absolutely  white. 
The  coloring  matter  must  be  readily 
soluble  in  water,  devoid  of  any  un- 
pleasant taste  or  of  injurious  effects, 
forbidding  the  use  of  most  metallic 
salts  or  oxides  and  certain  vegetable 
substances.  If  the  coloring  substances 
cannot  be  dissolved  in  water ,4hey  must 
be  converted  into  an  impalpable  pow- 
der. 

Black  Wafers  are  produced  by  adding 
some  finely-pulverized  lampblack  or 
Chinese  ink  to  the  dough. 

Red,  and  Rose  Color,  by  more  or  less 
concentrated  decoction  of  madder  or 
Brazil  wood,  or  more  beautiful  with  an 
infusion  of  finely  pulverized  cochineal 
brightened  with  some  alum. 

Yellow  Wafers^  are  obtained  by  color- 
ing the  dough  with  a  decoction  of  weld 
or  turmeric,  but  saffron  furnishes  the 
finest  product. 

Blue  Wafers.  Color  the  dough  with 
finely  pulverized  Berlin  blue,  or  a  blue 
liquor  obtained  by  adding  &  few  drops 
of  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron  to  one 
of  ferrocyanide  of  iron. 

Violet  Wafers  are  produced  by  add- 
ing a  mixture  of  red  and  blue  to  the 
dough. 


SHOE-BLACKING,  DRESSINGS,  ETC. 


310 


Gelatine  or  French  Wafers.  Dis- 
solve fine  glue  by  itself,  or  mixed  with 
isinglass,  in  water  to  a  suitable  con- 
sistency. Pour  it  upon  a  glass  plate 
previously  warmed  with  steam  and 
slightly  greased,  which  is  fitted  in  a 
metallic  frame  with  edges  just  as  high 
as  the  wafers  should  be  thick.  A 
second  plate  of  glass,  heated  and 
greased,  is  laid  on  the  surface  so  as  to 
touch  every  point  of  the  gelatine,  and 
resting  on  the  edges  of  the  frame. 
When  the  two  plates  of  glass  get  cold 
the  gelatine  congeals,  and  may  readily 
be  removed.  It  is  then  cut  with  proper 
punches  into  wafers  of  different  sizes. 

The  coloring  matter  should  not  be 
of  a  poisonous  kind. 

For  Light  Red  Wafers,  mix  the 
boiled  gelatine  with  fine  English 
minium  rubbed  up  in  whiskey;  for 
medium  red,  with  Chinese  cinnabar 
rubbed  up  in  whiskey.  For  all  dark 
colors  it  is  necessary' to  determine  the 
amount  of  coloring  matter  by  experi- 
ment, as,  when  too  little  is  taken,  the 
color  is  not  sufficiently  fiery,  and  if  too 
much,  the  wafers  lose  their  lustre  and 
adhesiveness. 

For  Transparent  Red  Wafers,  decoc- 
tion of  Brazil  wood  brightened  with 
some  alum  may  be  used. 

For  Yellow,  fin  infusion  of  saffron  or 
turmeric  is  recommended,  but  a  decoc- 
tion of  weld,  fustic,  or  Persian  berries 
can  be  used. 

For  Blue  Wafers,  sulphate  of  indigo 
partially  saturated  with  potash  is  used, 
and  this  mixed  with  yellow  for  the 
greens. 

English  Metallic  Wafers  consist  of 
very  thin  leaf-metal  glossy  on  the  sur- 
face and  the  lower  side  provided  with 
a  sticky  substance.  The  leaves  are 
passed  between  two  rollers,  one  having 
a  smooth  and  the  other  a  somewhat 
rough  surface.  To  the  latter  the  fol- 
lowing mixture  is  applied:  Glue  16 
parts,  gum-Arabic  4,  syrup  5,  spirit  of 
wine  3,  camphor  1,  virgin  wax  1,  and 
distilled  water  12.  The'ingredients  are 
placed  in  a  glass  flask  hermetically 
closed,  and  heated  for  8  hours  in  a 
sand-bath  at  a  temperature  of  210°  F. 
The  solution  is  then  filtered  and  diluted 
with  one  of  1  part  of  alum  in  15  of 
water,  keeping  the  temperature  some- 
what below  the  boiling  point.  When 


dry,  the  prepared  leaves  are  cut  witii 
proper  punches  into  wafers  of  different 
sizes.  The  smooth  surface  may  be 
gilded  or  lacquered. 


SHOE-BLACKING,  DRESSINGS,  ETC. 

1.  Good  blacking  will  preserve  the 
leather  soft  and  flexible  and  show  a 
gloss  with  slight  rubbing,  not  dimmed 
by  exposure  to  ordinary  moisture.     It 
should    be    applied  in  a  thin    layer. 
Bone-black  is  almost  universally  used 
as  a  colorant,  but  as  it  contains  only  9 
or  10  per  cent,  of  carbon  to  a  large  per 
cent,  of  phosphate  of  lime,  it  must  be 
freed  from  the  latter  constituent  to  pre- 
vent the  black  from   having  a  gray 
tinge,  which  is  done  as  follows :  Pour 
3    parts   of  pure  concentrated   hydro- 
chloric acid  over  10  parts  of  bone-black, 
and  work  into  a  paste  with  a  spatula. 
Let  it  stand  for  24  hours,  then  add  50 
parts  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  into  a 
thin  mixture  and  let  it  settle.     The 
clear  fluid  is  then  drawn  otF,  and  the 
sediment    mixed    intimately  with    2^ 
parts  of  sulphuric  acid.     The  mixture 
is  allowed  to  stand  for  24  hours.     Then 
add    50    parts  of  boiling    water,   stir 
thoroughly,  let  it  settle  and  pour  off 
the  clear  fluid.     The  residue  of  bone- 
black  is  now  thoroughly  disintegrated, 
is  nearly  free  from  acid,  not  injurious 
to  leather,  and  furnishes  blacking  of  a 
deep-black  color. 

Lampblack  and  Frankfort  black  are 
also  used  as  pigments  in  the  manu- 
facture of  blacking,  but  neither  can  re- 
place bone-black,  at  least  not  without 
a  large  addition  of  other  substances  to 
give  gloss. 

If  the  object  is  to  give  to  the  blacking 
a  beautiful  color  without  taking  the 
cost  into  consideration,  some  freshly- 
precipitated  Berlin-blue  maybe  added. 
It  gives  to  the  blacking  a  bluish- black 
shade  of  a  metallic  lustre. 

2.  Every  blacking  must  contain  an 
agglutinant,   which  fixes  the  pigment 
upon  the  leather  and  takes  a  gloss  by 
brushing. 

It  is  best  to  use  a  mixture  of  2  parts 
of  molasses  and  1  of  glycerine.  This 
combines  the  preserving  qualities  of 
the  glycerine  and  the  power  of  the  mo- 
lasses to  give  a  good  gloss. 


320 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


3.  As  a  third  integral  constituent  of 
blacking,  especially  of  such  not  con- 
taining glycerine,  an  addition  of  some 
substance  "is  needed  which  will  keep 
the   leather   soft    and    flexible.     Non- 
drying  fat  oils,  as  olive  oil,  sesame  oil, 
lard,  fish  oil,  etc.,  are  best  to  use. 

Sesame  oil,  being  cheap,  must  be 
preferred  to  olive  oil.  Lard  is  too  dear, 
and  readily  becomes  rancid.  Fish  oil  is 
principally  objectionable  on  account  of 
its  smell.  Five  to  10  per  cent,  of  the 
weight  of  the  bone-black  of  these  oils 
is^generally  used.  An  addition  of  too 
much  oil  makes  it  difficult  to  give  a 
gloss  to  the  blacking,  and  besides  the 
dust  adheres  so  tightly  to  the  shoes  or 
boots  as  to  make  it  almost  impossible  to 
remove  it.  If  the  blacking  contains 
glycerine,  a  very  small  percentage  of 
oil  will  do,  as  glycerine  aloue  keeps  the 
leather  soft  and  flexible. 

4.  Mixing  the  Ingredients.    After  the 
bone-black  has  been  disintegrated  by 
means  of  acid,  add  the  substances  giv- 
ing gloss,  then  the  oil,  and  finally  suf- 
ficient water,  beer,  or  vinegar  to  allow 
of  the  whole  being  mixed  together. 

We  give  below  a  number  of  receipts, 
most  of  which  have  been  tested  and  can  j 
be  recommended. 

Caoutchouc  Blackings.     Receipt   I.  | 
In  the  Form  of  Paste.     Mix  bone-black 
20  parts,  molasses  15,  vinegar  and  sul- 
phuric acid  of  each  4,  and  caoutchouc 
oil  (see  below)  3. 

Receipt  II.  In  Fluid  Form..  Bone- 
black  60  parts,  molasses  45,  dissolved 
gum  1,  vinegar  50,  sulphuric  acid  24, 
caoutchouc  oil  9. 

Caoutchouc  Oil  is  prepared  by  di- 
gesting, with  the  assistance  of  heat,  f>.~> 
parts  of  caoutchouc  in  450  parts  of  rape- 
seed  oil. 

Cordova  Slacking.  Thig  blacking 
deserves  special  recommendation  for 
blacking  shoes,  boots,  harness,  etc.., 
as  it  contains  neither  hydrochloric  nor  j 
sulphuric  acid.  Mix:  Vinegar  1500 
parts,  beer  500  parts,  good  cabinet- 
makers' glue  250  parts,  sumac  60  parts, 
isinglass  4  parts,  indigo  2  parts,  and  let 
the  whole  boil  slowly  for  i  hour. 
Strain,  after  cooling,  and  apply  with  a 
sponge. 

Dressing  for  Dancing  Shoes.  Gum- 
Arabic  1  part,  loaf  sugar  and  bone- 
plack  each  i,  and  sufficient  water,  j 


Dissolve  the  gum  and  the  sugar,  trit- 
urate the  bone-black  with  the  solution, 
and  apply  the  fluid  with  a  sponge. 

Dressing  free  from  Sulphuric  Acid. 
Boil  for  J  hour:  1  part  of  extract  of 
logwood  and  30  of  gall-nuts  coarsely 
powdered,  press  out  and  strain  the 
liquid,  and  add  to  it  8  parts  of  sulphate 
of  iron.  Let  it  stand  for  24  hours, 
strain  off  the  clear  fluid,  heat  it  moder- 
ately and  stir  into  it  8  parts  of  gum- 
Arabic,  100  of  rock -candy,  and  80  of 
molasses.  Strain  the  fluid  again,  and 
add  50  parts  of  spirit  of  wine,  40  of  a 
solution  of  equal  quantities  of  shellac 
and  pulverized  indigo. 

Dressing,  equal  if  not  superior  to 
Paris  dressing,  is  prepared  as  follows: 
Boil  for  half  an  hour  20  parts  of  bruised 
gall  nuts  and  10  parts  of  logwood  in  500 
parts  of  water  or  wine,  then  strain  and 
add  to  the  liquor  10  parts  of  sulphate 
of  iron  and  2£  parts  of  sulphate  of  cop- 
per, and  allow  the  whole  to  stand  12 
hours.  The  next  day  the  clear  fluid  is 
drawn  from  the  sediment  and  heated, 
and  90  parts  of  gum- Arabic  dissolved  in 
it,  and  finally  60  parts  of  syrup  and  150 
parts  of  spirit  of  wine  are  added.  The 
dressing  is  applied  with  a  brush  and 
brushed. 

Another  Receipt.  Boil  in  200  parts 
of  water  20  parts  of  soap  and  10  parts 
each  of  sulphate  of  iron,  starch,  and 
powdered  gall-nuts,  strain  oft'  the  fluid 
and  add  to  it  30  parts  of  disintegrated 
bone-black  and  60  parts  of  syrup. 

This  dressing  acquires  great  gloss 
and  is  certainly  not  injurious  to  the 
leather. 

English  Water-proof  Blacking.  Stir 
60  parts  of  bone-black  into  45  parts  of 
molasses,  and  pour  over  it  12  parts  of 
vinegar,  and  stir  in  gradually  12  of 
sulphuric  acid.  Let  it  stand  for  7  days, 
and  then  add  9  parts  of  caoutchouc  oil 
and  keep  the  finished  blacking  in 
jars. 

The  caoutchouc  oil  is  prepared  by 
melting  1  part  of  caoutchouc  cut  up  in 
pieces  in  an  earthen  pot  over  a  coal- 
fire,  and  mixing  with  it  6  to  8  parts  of 
linseed  oil,  stirring  constantly. 

Fluid  Blacking,  a  Substitute  for 
Ointment  and  Lacquer.  Make  a  mixt- 
ure of  500  parts  of  asphaltum  and  500 
of  petroleum,  to  which  add  first  60 
parts  of  linseed-oil  varnish,  next  140 


SHOE-BLACKING,  DRESSINGS,   ETC. 


parts  of  train  oil,  and  finally  130  parts 
of  alcohol. 

French  Paste  for  Patent.  Leather.  To 
preserve  the  gloss  of  patent  leather  the 
following  preparation  is  used :  Melt 
pure  wax  over  a  water-bath.  Place  it 
on  a  moderate  coal-fire,  add  first  some 
olive  oil  and  then  some  lard,  and  mix 
intimately  by  stirring.  Then  add  some 
oil  of  turpentine,  and  finally  some  oil 
of  lavender.  The  resulting  paste  is 
filled  in  boxes,  where,  on  congealing, 
it  will  acquire  the  requisite  consistency. 
Apply  a  little  of  it  to  the  shoe  or  boot, 
and  rub  with  a  linen  rag,  which  will 
restore  the  gloss  to  the  leather  and  keep 
it  soft  and  prevent  cracking. 

Good  Shoe-blacking.  Mix  2  parts  of 
olive  oil  with  15  of  syrup,  then  mix  1 
part  of  sulphuric  acid  with  75  of  stale 
beer.  Pour  the  two  mixtures  together, 
and  add  15  parts  of  bone-black  and  4 
parts  of  indigo  triturated  with  beer. 
Boil  the  whole  for  about  10  minutes. 

Another  Receipt.  Mix  6  parts  of  fine 
bone-black,  28  of  syrup,  4  of  sugar,  3  of 
train  oil,  and  1  of  sulphuric  acid ;  let 
the  mixture  stand  for  8  hours,  then 
add,  with  vigorous  and  constant  stirring, 
4  parts  of  decoction  of  tan,  18  of  bone- 
black,  and  3  of  sulphuric  acid,  and 
pour  the  compound  into  boxes. 

Gutta-percha  Blacking,  a.  Dissolve 
20  parts  of  gum-Arabic  in  1000  of 
water.  Pour  50  parts  of  olive  oil  over 
20  of  gutta-percha  cut  in  pieces,  and 
melt,  with  constant  stirring,  into  a  uni- 
form mass,  and  stir  it  into  the  dissolved 
gum-Arabic. 

b.  Mix  intimately  200  parts  of  bone- 
black,  400  of  lampblack,  and  1500  of 
molasses.  Melt  the  mixtures  a  and  b 
together. 

As  will  be  seen  from  the  receipt  the 
preparation  is  entirely  free  from  acid, 
and  cannot  injure  the  leather  in  the 
least.  The  addition  of  gutta-percha 
causes  the  leather,  after  repeated  treat- 
ment with  this  blacking,  to  become 
nearly  water-proof. 

Hardeg's  Leather  Ointments.  I.  Melt 
and  mix :  Yellow  wax,  oil  of  turpen- 
tine, olive  oil,  castor  oil,  each  25  parts, 
and  linseed  oil  purified  and  boiled  50 
parts,  and  add,  with  constant  stirring, 
37i  parts  of  pure  wood  tar. 

II.  Melt  and  mix  :  Yellow  wax,  oil 
of  turpentine,  and  castor  oil  each  12i 
21 


parts,  linseed  oil  purified  and  boiled 
125,  and  tar  3£  parts. 

Konrad's  Celebrated  Blacking.  Melt 
in  an  earthenware  pot:  Lard  75  parts, 
train  oil  8,  tar  2,  and  colophony  2. 
When  the  mixture  is  homogeneous  pour 
it  upon  430  parts  of  sifted  animal  char- 
coal, mix  them  thoroughly,  and  add  30 
parts  of  furniture  polish  and  70  of 
syrup. 

Boil  in  another  pot:  Mountain  ash 
berries  70  parts,  rasped  logwood  30,  sul- 
phate of  iron  16,  gall  nuts  4,  and  verdi. 
gris  2,  with  rain-water  300 ;  pour  off  the 
liquor  and  compound  it  with  12J  parts 
of  alum.  As  soon  as  the  liquor  is  cool 
add  gradually  and  with  constant  stir- 
ring 3  parts  of  indigo  dissolved  in  25  of 
sulphuric  acid. 

This  liquor  is  now  poured  in  small 
quantities  at  a  time  upon  the  above 
mixture  and  intimately  mixed  with  it 
by  vigorous  stirring.  The  pasty  com- 
pound when  cold  is  dried,  rubbed  fine, 
and  then  packed. 

Ointment  for  Boots  used  by  the  Nor- 
mandy Fishermen.  M  ix  50  parts  of  good 
linseed  oil,  35  parts  of  spermaceti,  5 
parts  of  yellow  wax,  and  3£  parts  each 
of  pitch  and  oil  of  turpentine.  Melt 
the  whole  in  an  earthenware  pot  over 
a  moderate  fire,  care  being  had  to  pre- 
vent the  mixture  from  igniting.  The 
compound  is  rubbed  into  the  leather 
and  then  dried  by  exposure  to  heat. 

Shoe-blacking  from  Potatoes.  Boil  in 
a  suitable  vessel  10  parts  of  potatoes 
chopped  fine,  and  1  of  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid  until  a  black  glossy  mass 
has  been  formed.  Then  compound  it 
with  4  parts  of  bone-black  and  a  corre- 
sponding quantity  of  train  oil ;  stir  thor- 
oughly and  form  into  cakes. 

Water-proof  Blacking.  Mix  60  parts 
of  bone-black  with  45  of  syrup;  dilute 
the  mixture  with  12  parts  of  strong 
vinegar,  and  then  add  gradually  and 
with  constant  stirring  12  parts  of  sul- 
phuric acid.  Let  the  whole  stand  for 
7  days,  and  then  mix  it  with  9  parts  of 
caoutchouc  oil. 

Water-proof  Ointments  for  Shoes  and 
Boots.  I.  Green  wagon  grease  3  parts, 
lard  1,  and  wall-wort  (Symphytum 
officinale)  i  part.  The  wall-wort  is 
chopped  up  very  fine  and  boiled  to  a 
thick  paste  with  water,  and  then  pressed 
so  that  the  fibrous  parts  remain  behind. 


322 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Should  the  leather  be  very  hard  more 
wall-wort  must  be  used. 

This  composition  makes  the  leather 
water-proof,  soft,  and  gives  it  almost 
incredible  durability.  The  boots  are 
first  moistened  with  warm  water  and 
then  thoroughly  impregnated,  especial- 
ly the  soles  and  seams,  with  this  paste, 
and  allowed  to  dry  slowly  either  in  the 
sun  or  near  a  stove.  This  is  repeated 
at  least  every  two  weeks,  although  it  is 
then  sufficient  to  moisten  only  the  soles 
and  seams.  Boots  treated  in  this  man- 
ner can  be  polished  with  ordinary 
blacking. 

II.  Melt  in  an  earthenware  pot  over 
a  moderate  fire  6  parts  of  spermaceti, 
add  12  parts  of  caoutchouc  cut  up  in 
strips,  and  when  this  is  dissolved  12 
parts  of  tallow,  4  of  lard,  and  8  of  am- 
ber-varnish. Mix  the  whole  intimately, 
and  the  compound  is  ready  for  use. 
Apply  it  twice  or  three  times  to  the 
shoes  with  an  ordinary  blacking  brush. 
It  renders  the  leather  water-proof  and 
gives  it  a  fine  gloss. 

To  give  to  the  Soles,  after  Scraping,  a 
Smooth  and  Beautiful  Appearance. 
Dissolve  1  part  of  stearine  in  4  to  5  of 
benzine.  Apply  the  solution  to  the 
soles,  and,  when  dry,  rub  smooth  with 
a  linen  rag. 

Another  solution  well  adapted  for 
the  same  purpose  is  obtained  by  melt- 
ing together  5  parts  of  stearine  with  1 
of  white  wax.  Rub  the  soles,  after 
scraping,  with  this  compound,  and 
smooth  with  a  clean  cloth. 

For  Hemlock  Leather  Soles  the  follow- 
ing mixture  is  used :  Alcohol,  saturated 
solution  of  sodium  hyposulphite,  and 
hydrochloric  acid,  equal  parts. 

To  Prevent  Boots  and  /Shoes  from 
Squeaking,  rasp  with  a  coarse  rasp  the 
outsole  and  insole,  and  every  other 
piece  of  leather  that  is  moved  by  the 
action  of  the  foot.  Then  apply  freely 
good  wheat  or  rye  paste.  If  this  is  well 
attended  to  from  heel  to  toe,  the  boot 
or  shoe  will  not  squeak. 

How  to  Make  Water-proof  Soots. 
For  3  pairs  of  boots  cut  3  ounces  of 
caoutchouc  in  small  pieces,  place  them 
in  a  pot  over  a  fire,  and  add  oil  of  tur- 
pentine sufficient  to  form  a  stiif  paste. 
Great  care  must  be  observed,  as  the 
mass  ignites  easily.  By  diluting  the 
compound  with  1  pint  of  boiled  linseed- 


oil  an  ointment  of  the  consistency  of 
yolk  of  egg  is  obtained. 

The  uppers  of  a  pair  of  boots  are  first 
soaked  in  a  tub  with  hot  water  and 
brushed  while  in  the  water,  until  the 
pores  are  thoroughly  opened  and  en- 
tirely free  from  lime.  They  are  then 
shrunk,  dried,  and  cut  somewhat  larger 
than  the  measure.  The  uppers  are 
then  greased  with  the  compound,  lined 
with  soft  leather  consisting  of  2  parts 
sewed  together  in  the  centre,  and 
stretched  over  the  last.  The  upper  is 
then  turned  up  and  the  lining  brushed 
over  with  the  water-proofing  compound. 
The  upper  is  then  drawn  over  it  and 
tacked.  The  peg-leather  is  filled  out 
with  leather  and  the  inner  sole  burned 
in  with  pitch,  care  being  had  that  the 
leather  forms  a  close  union  with  the 
pitch  on  all  points.  Finally  the  soles 
are  sewed  on.  Boots  thus'  made  are 
entirely  water-proof,  so  that,  even  if  the 
sole  is  broken,  water  cannot  penetrate ; 
but  in  this  case  they  should  be  half- 
soled  before  the  inner  sole  is  injured. 


SIZING  AND  DRESSING  FOR  COTTON, 
WOOL,  STRAW,  ETC. 

Sack's  Improved  Size  and  Dressing 
for  Linen,  Cotton,  and  Woollen  Goods. 
The  sizing  of  yarn  and  dressing  the 
finished  goods  is  well  known  to  be  one 
of  the  most  difficult  operations  in  the 
production  of  linen,  cotton,  and  woollen 
goods.  The  greatest  difficulty  lies  in 
the  preparation  of  the  size,  which  con- 
tains generally  too  much  glue  and  mu- 
cous constituents,  thus  rendering  the 
working  of  the  yarn  more  difficult.  For 
this  reason  we  give  here  a  peculiar 
method  of  preparing  a  size  and  dressing 
which,  it  is  claimed,  possesses  all  the 
qualities  demanded. 

1.  Size.     Boil  100  parts  of  ordinary 
peas  in  400  parts  of  soft  water,  allow 
it  to  cool  and  then  add  25  parts  of  the 
sticky  buds  of  the  balsam  poplar  and 
allow  the  whole    to  come  once  to  a 
boil.    The  compound  is  then  allowed  to 
stand  for   24  hours,   and  the  superna- 
tant clear  fluid  may  then  be  used  for 
sizing. 

2.  Dressing.     This  is  prepared  in  the 
same  manner,  but  the  proportions  are 
as  follows:  Water  600  parts,  peas  50 


SIZINGS  AND  DRESSINGS. 


323 


parts,  and  buds  of  balsam  poplar  25 
parts.  Apply  the  fluid  by  means  of  a 
sponge  to  the  plain  or  dyed  goods,  pile 
them  up  over  each  other  for  36  hours, 
then  stretch  them  in  a  frame  and  dry 
in  the  air.  Size  and  dressing  must  be 
prepared  fresh  every  time,  as,  by  ex- 
posure to  the  air,  they  become  sour,  and 
decompose  in  a  short  time. 

Dressing  and  Size.  The  compound 
can  be  prepared  in  solid  or  fluid  form, 
perfumed  or  not.  To  prepare  it  in  fluid 
form  take:  Glycerine  of  2°  Beaume 
1000  parts,  sodium  carbonate  and  gela- 
tine each  10  parts,  alum  and  borax  each 
ik  part.  Mix  intimately  to  a  homo- 
geneous fluid  compound.  To  prepare  it 
in  solid  form  mix  different  proportions  of 
gelatine,  hog-fat  soap,  stearine,  gum- 
Arabic,  or  gum  tragacanth,  with  vary- 
ing proportions  of  borax,  soda,  and 
alum.  To  perfume  the  compound  dis- 
solve 1  part  each  of  oil  of  peppermint 
and  oil  of  lavender  and  2  parts  of 
camphor  in  40  parts  of  alcohol,  and  add 
1  part  of  the  solution  to  the  above-de- 
scribed fluid. 

JEau  de  Crystall.  This  size  consists 
of  sulphate  of  magnesium,  chloride  of 
magnesium,  and  dextrine.  The  varieties 
found  in  commerce  contain : 

Ordinary     Good 
quality,     quality, 
per  cent,  per  cent. 

Water 60  51  to  52 

Sulphate  of  magnesium     .     36  to  38    42  to  48 
Chloride  of  magnesium     .      to  1.5 

Ferric  oxide traces. 

Sulphate  of  sodium  .     .     .      to  5.04 
Sulphate  of  calcium      .     .      to  0.62 

Glycerine  and  its  Use  in  Sizing  and 
Dressing.  To  load  and  oil  the  wool  the 
following  mixture  is  used :  Rosin  and 
aqua  ammonia  free  from  lime  each  1 
part  by  weight  and  water  10  parts  by 
weight  are  mixed,  filtered  through  a 
cloth,  and  half  the  quantity  by  weight 
of  fat  oil  adde.d,  and  then  the  whole 
quantity  by  weight  of  glycerine.  This 
mixture  is  reduced  half  with  water  and 
used  for  oiling  the  wool.  It  is  also  much 
used  as  a  solvent  for  aniline  colors, 
being  capable  of  dissolving  a  larger 
quantity  of  them  and  at  a  lower  tem- 
perature than  alcohol.  Its  power  of 
dissolving  albumen  makes  it  especially 
adapted  for  calico-printing.  Solutions 


of  albumen  in  glycerine  keep  for  a  long 
time  and  are  not  decomposed  even  at 
158°  F.  We  give  in  the  following  a  few 
receipts  for  dressing  with  glycerine : 

1.  For    White   Goods.     1.  Water  20 
parts,  gelatine  6,  glycerine  2. 

2.  Starch  2  parts,  glycerine  3. 

3.  Kaolin  9  parts,  sulphate  of  cal- 
cium 5,  glycerine  2. 

4.  Kaolin  8  parts,  dextrine  7,  glyc- 
erine 4. 

A  mixture  brought  into  commerce 
under  the  name  of  "  polyokoll "  or  "par- 
mentine"  consists  of  100  parts  of  gel- 
atine, 70  of  dextrine,  20  of  glycerine, 
and  21  of  sulphate  of  zinc;  or,  grape 
sugar  10  parts,  Epsom  salts  15,  glycer- 
ine 5,  saltpetre  H,  dissolved  in  water, 
and  diluted  to  6°  Beaume. 

For  sizing  the  following  mixtures  are 
used  :  I.  Glycerine  12,  dextrine  5,  sul- 
phate of  aluminium  1,  water  30. 

2.  Dissolves  parts  of  glue  in  50  parts 
of  boiling  water.    Pour  the  solution 
into    500    parts    of  glycerine    of   20° 
Beaume  and  add  a  solution  of  5  parts 
of  soda.    An  addition  of  a  small  quan- 
tity of  carbolic  acid  prevents  decompo- 
sition of  the  mixture. 

3.  A    compound     glycerine    sizing 
liquid    is    prepared    from     glycerine 
100   parts,   soda    1,  gelatine   1,   white 
starch  10,  alum  1100,  and  borax  1100. 
The  hardening  of  cotton  yarns  is  also 
conveniently  prevented  by  an  immer- 
sion in  a  glycerine  bath. 

New  Preparation,  called  Glutine, 
used  for  giving  Gloss  to  Wall  Papers, 
and  as  an  Tnspissation  for  Dyeing  and 
Printing  Purposes.  Press  caseine,  gen- 
erally known  as  curd,  through  rollers 
revolving  towards  each  other,  to  free  it 
from  fluid,  and  convert  into  a  coarse 
powder.  Triturate  the  powder  with  1 
part  of  sodium  tungstate,  or  pass  the 
compound  through  the  rollers  to  effect- 
ually crush  the  smallest  particle  of 
caseine,  for  as  soon  as  the  solution 
comes  in  contact  with  the  caseine  re- 
action begins  and  the  compound  be- 
comes tough.  Caseine  containing  much 
buttermilk  is  mixed  with  hydrochloric 
acid  and  water,  and  then  repeatedly 
washed  with  water,  until  all  acid  re- 
action has  ceased,  when  it  is  pressed 
out  and  treated  as  above.  The  caseine 
and  soda  solution  are  stirred  in  a  boiler 
over  a  water-bath  until  the  caseiiie  is 


324 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


fully  dissolved,  and  add  a  little  car- 
bolic acid  and  a  few  drops  of  oil  of 
cloves.  When  all  is  melted  pour  the 
compound  out,  which  on  cboling  will 
form  a  more  or  less  solid  mass,  accord- 
ing to  the  quantity  of  water  used.  The 
glutine  is  soluble  in  water  in  every 
proportion,  possesses  great  adhesive 
power,  and  furnishes  an  excellent  paste 
for  fastening  labels  on  tin,  glass,  and 
porcelain.  When  once  dry  it  resists 
moisture  quite  well,  and  gives  to  dull 
wall  papers,  printed  with  mineral  or 
metallic  colors,  a  beautiful  glossy  coat- 
ing, which  is  made  more  flexible  by 
an  addition  of  a  little  glycerine.  Gel- 
atine dissolved  in  glycerine  produces  a 
beautiful,  tenacious  compound,  which 
gives  to  paper  a  flexible  enamel,  that 
on  being  passed  through  a  solution  of 
alum  resembles  leather.  Glutine  with 
decoction  of  dye  wood  gives,  on  account 
of  its  percentage  of  tungstic  acid,  vari- 
ous tints  of  colors.  Steeping  cotton  or 
linen  in  a  solution  of  glutine,  then 
dried  and  drawn  through  a  decoction 
of  logwood,  receives  a  violet  color ;  by 
drawing  them  through  acids  or  solu- 
tions of  mineral  salts  fast  colors  of 
various  shades  are  obtained. 

New  Size.  Treating  starch  with  soda- 
lye  produces  a  paste  which  is  used  for 
sizing,  and  sold  under  various  names. 
One  disadvantage  of  this  compound  is 
that  it  is  always  more  or  less  alkaline. 
It  is  claimed  that  otherwise  it  would 
lose  its  efficiency.  Chloride  of  mag- 
nesium has  been  recently  substituted 
for  the  soda-lye.  Add  100  parts  of 
chloride  of  magnesium  to  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  boiling  water  to  dissolve 
the  starch,  and  in  a  short  time  draw  off 
the  clear  liquor,  to  which  is  added  1 
part  of  hydrochloric  acid,  and  then  100 
parts  of  starch  are  thrown  in,  and  the 
compound  brought  to  the  boiling  point. 
After  the  mixture  has  been  kept  at  a 
temperature  of  195°  F.  for  about  1  hour, 
clarified  lime  water  is  added  to  neutral- 
ize it.  The  boiling  is  repeated  once 
more,  and  the  resulting  artificial  glue 
fe,  in  case  it  is  to  be  stored,  poured  into 
moulds,  and  allowed  to  congeal. 

Preparation  of  Artificial  Gum  to  be 
nse.d  in  Place  of  Gum- Arabic.  Place 
in  a  boiler,  water  equal  to  6  times  the 
weight  of  the  starch  to  be  added  and 
heat  it  to  about  86°  F.,  and  stir  in  20 


parts  of  wheat  starch,  then  100  parts 
of  potato  starch,  20  parts  each  of  sago 
and  crushed  malt.  Heat  the  mass  over 
a  water-bath  until  a  gummy  compound 
is  formed,  requiring  generally  1  hour 
after  adding  the  crushed  malt.  The 
operation  is  not  complete  as  long  as  a 
drop  of  the  gum  mixed  with  tincture 
of  iodine  shows  a  blue  color;  when  it 
shows  a  reddish-violet  color  reduce  the 
temperature  of  the  gum  mixture  to 
212°  F.  by  shutting  off'  the  steam.  The 
solution  is  then  allowed  to  stand  for  1 
hour,  when  it  is  filtered  through  a 
woollen  cloth.  It  is  then  concentrated 
by  bringing  it  into  another  vessel  and 
heating  by  means  of  steam-pipes  to  ex- 
pel the  water.  If  it  is  desired  to  obtain 
the  gum  in  a  dry  state  the  compound  ia 
divided  into  small  pieces  and  dried. 

Preparation  of  Blood  Albumen.  The 
principal  requisite  in  preparing  blood 
albumen  is  that  the  working- room 
should  be  located  as  close  as  possible 
to  the  slaughter-house,  as  the  quicker 
the  coagulated  blood  is  cut  and  placed 
upon  the  sieves  the  brighter  and  purer 
the  serum  drains  off.  The  blood  is 
cut  up  in  pieces  of  about  1  cubic  inch, 
placed  upon  sieves,  and  allowed  to  drain 
off  40  to  48  hours.  At  first  the  serum 
is  red  on  account  of  corpuscles  of  blood 
being  mixed  with  it,  but  in  about  1  hour 
it  drains  off  perfectly  clear.  After  the 
time  stated  above  the  clear  fluid  is 
drawn  from  the  red  sediment  into 
wooden  vats  having  a  capacity  of  40  to 
60  gallons.  From  the  serum  "  natural 
albumen,"  without  gloss,  and  "patent 
albumen,"  with  gloss,  are  prepared. 

To  manufacture  natural  albumen  add 
12 }  parts  of  oil  of  turpentine  to  5000 
parts  of  serum,  and  agitate  the  mixture 
for  1  hour  by  means  of  a  perforated 
board  provided  with  a  handle.  The 
oil  of  turpentine  forms  ozone,  which  has 
a  bleaching  effect;  it  withdraws  also  a 
mucous  fat  from  the  serum  and  acts 
as  a  preservative.  The  mixture  is  then 
allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  24  to  36 
hours,  and  the  clear  serum  is  then 
drawn  from  the  sediment.  The  drying 
is  accomplished  in  iron  cups  coated 
with  oil-paint  and  lacquer  burned  in. 
The  cups  are  about  12  inches  long,  6 
inches  wide,  and  2  inch  deep.  The 
temperature  of  the  drying-room  at  the 
start  must  be  about  122°  F.,  and  is 


SIZINGS  AND  DRESSINGS. 


325 


gradually  raised  for  2  hours  to  125° 
to  130°  F.  It  is  then  lowered  to  100° 
to  105°  F.,  and  kept  there  for  34  hours, 
when  the  drying  is  finished. 

To  Prepare  Patent  Albumen  add  to 
5000  parts  of  serum  12  parts  of  sulphuric 
acid  mixed  with  22  parts  of  concen- 
trated acetic  acid  and  336  parts  of 
water,  and  then  add  14  parts  of  oil  of 
turpentine  and  agitate  for  1  hour.  The 
whole  is  then  allowed  to  stand  quietly 
for  24  to  36  hours,  when  the  clear 
serum  is  drawn  off,  neutralized  with 
ammonia,  and  dried.  Fifty  thousand 
parts  of  serum  give  5000  parts  of  dry 
blood  albumen. 

A  second  quality  of  albumen  is  pre- 
pared from  the  serum  colored  red  by 
blood  corpuscles  and  the  sediment, 
and  a  third  quality  by  lixiviating  the 
blood  with  water.  The  remaining 
blood  is  comminuted  and  dried  in 
sheet-iron  pans  at  a  temperature  of 
143°  to  167°  F. 

Preparation  of  Dextrine.  Dilute  4 
parts  of  nitric  acid  of  36°  to  40°  Beaume 
with  600  of  water,  and  pour  the  mixture 
over  2000  parts  of  dry  potato  starch ; 
mix  thoroughly  and  dry.  When  the 
evaporation  has  progressed  so  far  that 
the  cakes  can  be  easily  broken  crush 
them  with  a  shovel  and  spread  the 
stnrch  upon  the  floor  of  the  drying- 
room  in  a  layer  i  to  1  inch  deep.  The 
temperature 'should  be  kept  at  230°  to 
24^°  F.,  and  the  dextrine  will  be  fin- 
ished in  H  hours.  It  will  remain 
white  if  not  exposed  to  too  high  a  tem- 
perature. 

Process  of  Sizing  all  Kinds  of 
Tisanes  with  Alkaline  Solutions  of 
'Silk,  Won?,  or  Feathers.  Dissolve 
fibres  of  silk,  wool,  or  down  in  caustic 
soda,  and  apply  the  solution  to  the 
tissues,  which  are  then  washed  in  a 
bath  of  sulphuric  acid  and  carefully 
rinsed.  Tissues  thus  treated  may  be 
bleached  and  dyed. 

This  process  is  used  for  loading 
woollen  and  sTlk  yarns  and  tissues 
with  an  alkaline  solution  of  wool  or 
silk,  and  eventually  to  improve  de- 
fective qualities.  Mixtures  of  alkaline 
solutions  of  silk  and  wool,  silk  and 
down,  etc.,  may  also  be  used  for  coat- 
ing all  kinds  of  textile  fibres. 

Size  for  Bobbinet.  The  bobbinet, 
after  bleaching,  dyeing,  and  drying,  is 


stretched  evenly  in  a  machine.  It  is 
then  brought  into  a  closed  room  hav- 
ing a  temperature  of  98i°  to  104°  F., 
and  coated  several  times  with  a  cold 
size  consisting  of  boiled  starch  and 
dextrine  with  an  admixture  of  some 
gelatine  or  glue,  until  the  desired  de- 
gree of  stiffness  and  gloss — the  latter 
being  produced  by  the  temperature 
prevailing  in  the  work-room — is  ob- 
tained. The  size  is  applied  with 
brushes.  Bobbinet  thus  prepared  is 
equal  to  the  English  product.  The 
size  is  boiled  the  day  before,  and  cooled 
off  to  an  ordinary  temperature,  say 
68°  F. 

Size  for  Cotton  Yarns.  An  improved 
size  for  cotton  yarns,  patented  by  H. 
Wegmann,  consists  of  tallow,  soft  soap, 
rosin,  sulphate  of  iron,  and  onions. 
Boil  the  rosin,  sulphate  of  iron,  onions, 
and  tallow  until  sufficiently  liquid, 
and  add  the  mass  to  the  soft  soap 
melted  in  a  tank  with  steam  and  hot 
water.  Mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly 
with  steam,  and  add  them  to  the  starch 
or  flour  with  sufficient  water  to  make 
the  sizing  of  the  desired  consistency. 

Size  for  Cotton  and  Woollen  Yarns, 
especially  for  dark  colors.  Liquefy 
100  parts  of  glue  and  20  parts  of  glyc- 
erine in  water  on  the  water-bath,  and 
then  add  5  parts  of  potassium  bichro- 
mate. The  compound,  by  reason  of 
becoming  decomposed  by  light,  must 
be  kept  in  the  dark. 

Size  for  Cotton.  I.  Flour  1250  parts, 
tallow  5  parts,  paraffine  5  to  2  per  cent.  ; 
or,  flour  1 250  parts  and  5  to  10  per  cent, 
of  paraffine.  Add  a  little  alkaline 
carbonate  to  both  compounds.  The 
materials  are  mixed  with  water, 
heated,  and  thoroughly  mixed  to- 
gether. 

II.  Glue  600  parts,  dextrine  400 
parts,  sulphate  of  calcium  500  parts, 
glycerine  5000  parts,  chloride  of  lime  5 
parts,  spermaceti  500  parts,  stearine 
200  parts,  starch-syrup  and  starch  each 
500  parts,  carbolic  acid  5  parts,  and 
caustic  soda  10  parts  are  thoroughly 
mixed. 

Dressing  Cotton  Prints.  I.  Prepare 
the  following  decoction:  Water  137 
parts,  wheat  flour  5  parts,  potato  starch 
15  parts,  wheat  starch  5  parts,  cocoa- 
nut  oil  i  part.  The  goods  are  starched 
with  covered  starching  rollers,  dried 


326 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


over  drums,  and  strongly  but  uniformly 
moistened,  being  wound  up  very  tightly 
at  the  same  time.  They  remain  upon 
the  rollers  for  10  to  12  hours,  when 
they  are  unwound,  folded,  and  pressed. 

II.  Mix  |  part  of  pulverized  gum 
tragacanth  with  spirit  of  wine  "and 
work  it  into  a  homogeneous  compound, 
then  digest  this  in  450  parts  of  water 
over  a  moderate  fire,  without  allowing 
it  to  boil,  until  a  liquid,  slimy  com- 
pound is  formed,  which  is  passed 
through  a  sieve.  Now  boil  150  parts 
of  potato  starch  with  about  1000  parts 
of  water,  and  add  to  the  boiling  mixture 
7i  to  8J  parts  of  alum  previously  dis- 
solved in  hot  water.  Then  add  the 
solution  of  gum  tragacanth,  stirring  it 
in  but  not  boiling  it  with  the  starch. 

Glaze  Dressing  for  Colored  Cotton 
Goods.  I.  Glaze  on  Black.  Weak  liquor 
of  logwood  1700  parts,  potato  starch  100 
to  120  parts,  wheat  flour  50  to  60  parts, 
palm  oil  10  parts,  yellow  wax  and  tal- 
low each  5  parts.  Compound  the  de- 
coction with  1  to  £  part  of  potassium 
chromate,  and  then  add  solution  of 
rosin  45  parts,  and  potato  syrup  22i 
parts.  Mix  the  whole  thoroughly  and 
use  hot. 

II.  Glaze  on  Black  Goods  when  the 
Color  is  not  sufficiently  Deep  and  Dark. 
Logwood  liquor,  to  which  some  extract 
is  added,  1700  parts,  potato  starch  100 
to  120  parts,  wheat  flour  50  to  60  parts, 
palm  oil  10  parts,  yellow  wax  and 
tallow  each  5  parts,  acetate  of  iron  13 £ 
parts,  sulphate  of  iron  and  sulphate  of 
copper  each  2i  parts.  The  decoction 
is  compounded  with  §  to  i  part  of  potas- 
sium chromate  and  1J  parts  of  bluestone, 
and  45  parts  of  a  solution  of  rosin  and 
22£  parts  of  potato  syrup  are  finally 
added. 

Glaze  on  Blue  and  Green.  Water 
1700  parts,  potato  starch  100  to  120 
parts,  wheat  flour  50  to  60  parts.  The 
proportions  of  fat,  rosin,  and  potato 
syrup  are  the  same  as  for  black.  When 
the  decoction  is  about  half-cold  com- 
pound it  with  H  parts  of  tartaric  acid 
dissolved  in  water,  and  finally  darken 
it  according  to  the  desired  tint  with  in- 
digo-carmine, or,  still  better,  with  solu- 
tion of  potassium  sulphate. 

Glaze  on  Crimnon  Paper  Muslin. 
Water  570  parts,  liquor  of  Brazil  wood 
1700  parts,  potato  starch  100  parts, 


wheat  flour  50  parts.  When  half-cold 
add  2  to  2J  parts  of  tartaric  acid,  and 
fine  the  decoction  with  137i  to  140 
parts  of  vinegar.  Use  fat,  rosin,  and 
syrup  in  the  same  proportions  as  for 
black. 

Glaze  on  Rose-colored  Muslin. 
Water  1700  parts,  potato  starch  100  to 
120  parts,  wheat  flour  50  to  60  parts, 
white  cocoanut  oil  5  to  7i  parts,  white 
wax  and  stearine  each  5  parts.  Com- 
pound with  1|  to  2  parts  of  tartaric 
acid  dissolved  in  water,  and  115  to  135 
parts  of  good  wine  vinegar. 

Size  for  Laces.  Boil  f  part  of  borax 
and  3£  parts  of  shellac  with  1000  parts 
of  water.  The  solution  may  be  thick- 
ened with  starch,  gelatine,  or  isinglass. 
One  part  of  the  above  solution  and  1 
part  of  gelatine  solution  give  a  very 
good  size.  For  white  laces  bleached 
shellac  must,  of  course,  be  used. 

Size  for  Linen.  I.  For  Half-bleached 
Linen.  Boil  by  introducing  steam : 
Wheat  starch  5  parts,  potato  starch  2£ 
parts,  Utrecht  white  4V  parts,  light  glue 
i  part,  until  80  parts  of  size  are  ob- 
tained. 

II.  For  Fine  Holland  Linen.  Fine 
white  wheat  starch  100  parts,  potato 
starch  25  parts,  fine  mineral  white  12J 
parts,  soap  and  stearine  each  5  parts, 
white  wax  1£  parts,  and  crystallized 
soda  f  part  are  boiled  by  introducing 
steam,  and  then  colored  slightly  with 
ultramarine. 

For  Table  Linen  and  Damask. 
Wheat  starch  50  parts,  potato  starch  8 
parts,  white  glue  5  parts,  stearine  and 
white  wax  each  2-i  parts,  white  soap  H 
parts,  and  crystallized  soda  12£  parts, 
are  boiled  by  introducing  steam. 

Dressing  for  Panama  Hats.  The 
following  lacquer  is  highly  recom- 
mended for  the  purpose :  Alcohol  of  95 
per  cent.  200  parts,  sandarac  100  parts, 
and  oil  of  turpentine  20  parts,  are  di- 
gested for  10  days.  The  hat  is  coated 
twice  with  this  lacquer,  inside  and  out. 

Size  for  Petinet  and  Marly.  The 
process  of  sizing  petinet  and  marly, 
to  give  them  sufficient  stiffness,  hard- 
ness, and  glaze  to  adapt  them  for  bon- 
net-frames is  as  follows :  The  bleached 
material  is  starched,  then  stretched  in 
a  frame  and  dusted  while  yet  somewhat 
moist  with  fine  starch  flour  by  means 
of  a  hair  sieve,  so  that  the  meshes  re- 


SOAPS. 


327 


main  free,  but  the  powder  adheres 
abundantly  to  the  threads.  The  frame 
thus  prepared  is  then  placed  in  a 
tightly-closed  box  into  which  steam  is 
introduced.  The  steam  swells  up  the 
threads,  they  becoming  in  consequence 
adapted  for  an  absorption  of  the  dis- 
solved starch,  and  that  which  is  not  ab- 
sorbed is  changed  into  a  jelly,  adhering 
tightly  to  the  threads.  The  frame  is 
then  taken  from  the  box  and  a  fine 
current  of  cold  water  thrown  over  it 
until  the  starch  jelly  begins  to  dissolve, 
when  the  frame  is  replaced  in  the  box 
and  steam  introduced  until  the  starch 
is  transparent,  clear,  and  glossy.  The 
frame  is  then  taken  from  the  box  and 
dried. 

8ize  for  Woollen  Goods,  Cloths,  and 
Flannels.  Prepare  a  decoction  of  flax- 
seed,  to  which,  for  black  or  blue  colors, 
some  logwood  liquor  may  be  added. 
The  decoction  must  be  so  thick  that  it 
draws  threads  like  white  of  egg.  It  is 
then  forced  through  coarse  linen  and 
applied  with  a  brush.  Dry  linen  moist- 
ened with  weak  soap-water  is  then 
placed  upon  the  face  of  the  cloth  and 
ironed  with  a  hot  iron. 

Sulphate  of  Barium  has  been  for  a 
long  time  used  insizingand  dressing  tis- 
sues. The  old  method  consisted  in  add- 
ing sulphate  of  barium  to  the  starch  or 
animal  or  vegetable  glue.  This  gave  to 
the  size  a  yellowish  tint,  injuring  Lhe 
whiteness  of  the  tissues.  The  object  of 
the  new  process  is  to  remedy  this  evil. 
Mix  in  varying  proportions,  according 
to  the  strength  and  weight  of  the  size 
desired:  1,  Water;  2,  starch, vegetable, 
or  animal  glue;  3,  drying  oil,  castor 
oil,  poppy  seed  oil,  etc.;  4,  sulphate  of 
barium  in  a  nascent  condition,  i.  e., 
in  the  act  of  formation.  The  most 
suitable  proportions  are  as  follows : 
Water  400  parts,  starch  100  parts,  cas- 
tor oil  10  to  20  per  cent,  of  the  weight 
of  the  starch,  chloride  of  barium  10  to 
20  per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  the 
starch,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
ordinary  sodium  sulphate  to  com- 
pletely decompose  the  chloride  of  ba- 
rium by  chemical  reciprocal  action. 
All  the  ingredients  are  mixed  together 
and  heated  to  form  a  paste.  This  pro- 
cess is  still  further  facilitated  by  the 
fact  that  the  chloride  of  barium  and 
the  sulphate  of  sodium  can  be  mixed  in 


a  dry  state  without  fear  of  reciprocal  de- 
composition. 

Gerard's  Apparatine  is  a  colorless 
transparent  mass  prepared  from  potato 
starch  with  caustic  soda  or  potash-lye, 
and  used  for  dressing  all  kinds  of 
fabrics.  To  prepare  it  take  76  parts  of 
water,  16  of  potato  starch,  and  8  of 
caustic  lye  of  25°  B. ;  pour  the  starch 
into  the  water,  and  then  add  the  lye, 
stirring  constantly.  The  fluid  clarifies 
suddenly,  and  gives  a  thick  gelatine, 
which  must  be  vigorously  beaten.  If 
dried  in  thin  leaves  it  forms  a  hornlike 
substance,  which  can  be  folded  together 
without  breaking. 


SOAP.  HAED  AND  SOFT  SOAPS,  MEDI- 
CATED AND  TOILET  SOAPS,  ETC. 

American  Rosin  Soap.  Place  1000 
pounds  of  tallow,  200  pounds  of  crude 
palm  oil,  and  800  pounds  of  rosin  in 
a  boiler,  and  add  about  4000  pounds 
of  lye  of  15°  B.  until  a  clear  paste 
is  formed,  which  is  then  thoroughly 
salted  and  allowed  to  stand  about  3 
hours,  when  the  settled  salt-lye  is 
pumped  or  drawn  oiF.  Five  hundred 
pounds  of  water  and  250  pounds  of  lye 
of  8°  B.  are  added  to  the  boiler,  and  a 
fire  started  under  it.  Should  the  com- 
bination be  incomplete  after  boiling, 
add  enough  lye  of  15°  B.  until  a  clear 
soap  is  formed.  The  soap  is  again 
salted  and  boiled  clear  like  other  hard 
soaps.  Draw  the  fire,  and  let  the  soap 
stand  in  the  covered  boiler  for  3  days 
to  let  the  impurities  and  under-lye  set- 
tle. Uncover  the  boiler  and  remove 
the  congealed  crust,  and  ladle  the  clear 
soap  into  another  boiler,  and  keep  up 
the  fire  until  a  thick  mass  is  formed, 
which  is  then  ladled  into  frames  of 
1000  pounds  capacity  and  thoroughly 
racked  until  nearly  cold,  and  36  pounds 
of  dissolved  crystallized  soda  stirred 
into  each  frame  and  the  soap  becomes 
solid.  The  soda  solution  consists  of 
150  pounds  of  crystallized  soda  in  5 
pounds  of  hot  water.  The  racking  of 
the  soap,  after  the  soda  has  been  added, 
must  be  continued  as  long  as  it  is  pos- 
sible to  do  so,  as  the  quality  of  the 
soap  depends  much  on  this.  Soap 
which  can  be  cut  after  48  hours  is  very 
smooth  and  of  a  reddish-brown  color. 


328 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT   BOOK. 


If  a  lighter-colored  soap  is  desired 
the  crude  palm  oil  is  omitted,  and  200 
pounds  of  tallow  and  light  rosin  used 
instead.  The  pasty  lye  is  freed  from 
salt  and  used  for  the  next  boiling. 

American  Soaps.  1.  Extra  Soaps. 
Basis:  Tallow  45  parts,  kitchen  soap- 
fat  5  parts,  rosin  25  parts. 

Filling:  To  every  500  parts  of  fin- 
ished soap:  Saponified  rosin  50  parts, 
crystallized  soda-lye  of  37°  to  38° 
Beaume  (lukewarm)  25  parts,  water- 
glass  50  parts,  carbonate  of  potash-lye 
of  40°  B.  (lukewarm)  5  parts,  infusorial 
earth,  talc,  or  marble  dust  45  to  50 
parts. 

2.  Superior  Soaps.     Basis:  Tallow 
12i  parts,  kitchen  soap-fat  and  rosin 
each  37i  parts. 

Filling:  To  every  500  parts  of  fin- 
ished soap :  Saponified  rosin  and  soda- 
lye  of  37°  to  38°  B.  each  50  parts,  water- 
glass  90  parts,  carbonate  of  potash-lye 
7i  parts,  infusorial  earth,  talc,  or  mar- 
ble dust  60  parts. 

3.  Old  English  Soap.    Basis:  Tal- 
low and    kitchen   fat  each  25  parts, 
rosin  30  parts. 

Filling:  To  every  500  parts  of  fin- 
ished soap:  Saponified  rosin  20  parts, 
soda-lye  of  37°  to  38°  B.  28  parts,  water- 


4.  First  Premium  Soap.  Basis :  Tal- 
low 12i  parts,  kitchen  fat  and  rosin 
each  37  i  parts. 

Filling :  To  every  500  parts  of  fin- 
ished soap:  Saponified  rosin  75  parts, 
soda-lye  of  37°  to  38°  B.  60  parts,  water- 
glass  110  parts,  potash-lye  15  parts, 
infusorial  earth,  talc,  or  marble  dust 
120  parts. 

These  rosin  soaps  are  at  first  of  a 
light-yellow  color,  but,  on  account  of 
the  large  percentage  of  rosin,  become 
gradually  very  dark  and  have  a  strong 
odor  of  rosin.  Clothes  washed  with 
such  soaps,  when  kept  in  a  dark  room, 
become  yellow,  and  the  hands,  after 
using  these  soaps,  feel  rough.  But  the 
soaps,  by  reason  of  their  cheapness,  are 
much  liked.  They  are  pressed  into 
bars  weighing  about  1  pound,  which 
are  sold  at  4  or  5  cents. 

Besides  these  cheap  rosin  soaps 
another  soap  known  as  "Silex  soap  "  is 
manufactured.  It  is  nothing  but  an 
ordinary  tallow  soap  mixed  by  means 
of  a  stirring  apparatus  with  10  times  its 


weight  of  infusorial  earth,  and  pressed 
into  cakes  weighing  1  pound  each. 
It  is  used  for  cleansing  metals,  glass, 
etc. 

Brown  Rosin  Soap  in  the  Cold  Way. 
Melt  together  cocoanut  oil  16  pounds, 
crude  pal  m  oil  4  pounds,  rosin  20  pounds, 
and  compound  the  mixture  at  a  tem- 
perature of  155°  F.  with  24  pounds  of 
soda-lye  of  35°  B.  In  case  a  thorough 
combination  should  not  be  formed 
cover  the  mixing  vessel  with  cloths, 
and  the  compound  will  in  a  short  time 
become  hot.  When  this  is  the  case 
stir  it  thoroughly,  and  when  it  appears 
to  be  intimately  combined  stir  in  3  to  4 
pounds  of  a  solution  of  potash  of  30° 
B.,  and  then  pour  the  paste,  which 
should  be  uniform  and  quite  thickly 
fluid,  into  the  frame.  Soap  thus  pre- 
pared is  pliant  and  washes  excellently. 

Cocoanut-oil  Soap  in  the  Cold  Way, 
100  Pounds  of  Oil  yielding  about  200 
to  230  Pounds  of  Soap.  Cocoanut  oil, 
besides  its  other  good  qualities  in  com- 
parison with  other  fais  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  soap,  possesses  the  pecu- 
liai'ity  of  fixing  large  quantities  of 
water  and  saponifying  only  with  con 
centrated  lye,  differing  from  tallovr 
which  is  difficult  to  saponify  with 
strong  lyes.  With  weak  lyes  it  forms 
no  combination  whatever,  but  floats  as 
a  clear  fat  over  the  lye,  and  actual 
saponification  can  only  be  accomplished 
by  long  continued  boiling.  This  last 
peculiarity  may  have  been  the  cause 
of  recourse  being  had  to  cold  saponifica- 
tion. In  the  following  we  give  a  few 
practical  processes,  thoroughly  tested, 
by  •vyhich  good  cocoanut-oil  soaps  are 
obtained  at  a  comparatively  low  price. 

1.  Heat  100  pounds  of  cocoanut  oil 
to  100°  F.  and  add,  with  constant 
stirring,  120  pounds  of  lye  of  27°  B. 
The  combination  is  formed  as  soon  as 
the  lye  has  become  thoroughly  caustic. 
Should  this  not  be  the  case  continue 
the  stirring  for  a  short  time,  or  add  fine 
shavings  of  soap,  if  such  are  on  hand , 
cover  the  boiler  carefully  and  let  it 
stand  quietly  for  a  few  hours.  Then 
stir  in  15  to  20  pounds  of  salt-water  of 
18°  B.,  perfume  with  oils  of  lavender, 
thyme,  and  cumin  each  3i  ounces,  and 
pour  the  soap  into  the  frame  (mould). 
Yield:  Two  hundred  to  300  pounds 
from  100  pounds  of  oil.  The  soap  may 


SOAPS. 


329 


be  colored  or  marbled  in  the  ordinary 
way. 

2.  Another  process    is    as  follows: 
Melt  100  pounds  of  cocoanut  oil,  dis- 
solve in  it  5  pounds  of  potato  starch, 
and,  when  the  oil  is  cooled  off  to  97.5° 
to  100°  F.,  rake  in  100  pounds  of  soda- 
lye  of  30°  B.  and,  when  the  combina- 
tion is  complete,  fill  with  20  pounds  of 
solution  of  potash  of  28°  B. 

3.  A  third  process  is  as  follows  :  Melt 
100  pounds  of  cocoanut  oil  and  heat  to 
100°  F.,  then  add,  with  vigorous  stir- 
ring, 85  pounds  of  lye  of  32°  B.  and, 
when  the  combination  is  complete,  10 
pounds  of  water-glass  together  with  5 
to  6  pounds  of  a  solution  of  potash  of 
28°   to  30°  B.,  and   finally  pour  the 
soap  in  the  frame  (mould). 

Cold  Water  Soap.     By  reason  of  this 
soap  being  generally  demanded  of  a 
brown  color  it  is  prepared  from  cheap 
dark  fats,  as  bone  fat,  dark  tallow,  etc., 
in  the  proportion  of  100  pounds  of  fat 
to  60  pounds  of  rosin.    The  soap  is 
boiled  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as 
other  rosin   soap,    and   is  allowed   to 
stand  in  the  boiler  2  to  3  days.     If  it 
should  be  ladled  out  at  once  the  soap  j 
would  be  scarcely  fit  for  use,  as,  on  j 
account  of  the  high  percentage  of  rosin,  ' 
it  would  be  impossible  to  obtain  it  in  ! 
a  solid  form.     For  this  reason,  before  | 
it  is  poured  into  the  frame,  it  is  hardened  j 
with  a  filling  prepared  in  the  follow-  | 
ing  manner:  One  hundred  pounds  of 
crystallized  soda  and  50  of  Glauber's 
salts  are  melted  over  a  fire  without  an 
addition  of  water ;  to  this  is  added  25 
pounds  of  water-glass  of  75°  B.,  and  then 
12  hundredweight  of  soap  are  raked 
into  the  mixture.    The  soap  immedi- 
ately becomes  entirely  stiff  and  smooth, 
and,  after  raking  for  \  hour,  may  be 
brought  into  the  frame  (mould),  where 
the   raking  is  continued   for  a  short 
time.     It  is  generally  perfumed  with 
essence  of  mirbane  (nitro-benzol). 

Elaine  Soap.  Various  kinds  of  soap 
are  sold  under  this  name.  They  have 
the  appearance  of  elaine  soap,  but  do 
not  contain  one  grain  of  elaine. 

A  really  good  soap,  actua  1  ly  deserving 
the  name  on  account  of  its  containing 
elaine,  is  obtained  according  to  the  fol- 
lowing receipt:  Nine  hundred  pounds 
of  palm  oil  are  saponified  with  1130 
pounds  of  lye  of  25°  B,  When  the 


paste  is  clear  add  360  pounds  each  of 
half-bleached  palm-oil  and  elaine,  then 
boil  the  soap  clear  and  let  it  stand 
covered  3  to  4  hours.  The  soap  is  then 
drawn  off  into  the  settling  or  heating 
boiler,  which  is  warmed  by  flues  from 
the  boiling  pan,  so  that  the  soap  is  kept 
warm  and  the  lye  can  thoroughly  settle. 
It  remains  here  for  24  to  36  hours,  is 
then  poured  into  iron  frames  (moulds) 
and  raked  until  cold. 

Floating  Soap.  Four  hundred  and 
twenty  pounds  of  cocoanut  oil,  30 
pounds  of  bleached  palm-oil,  50  pounds 
of  rosin,  100  pounds  of  olive  oil,  and 
120  pounds  of  tallow  are  first  boiled 
with  weak  lye,  the  strength  of  which  is 
gradually  increased  to  40°  B.,  and  the 
weight  of  which  corresponds  to  360 
pounds.  As  soon  as  the  paste  is  formed 
add  400  pounds  of  flea-bane  seed  ( Mew  en. 
psyllii),  and  then  boil  until  the  finished 
soap  detaches  itself  from  the  boiler  in 
the  form  of  a  dough.  The  compound 
is  then  perfumed  and,  shortly  before 
pouring  out,  some  pulverized  carbonate 
of  sodium  added.  The  carbonic  acid  set 
free  permeates  the  soap  and  causes  the 
formation  of  empty  spaces,  thereby 
lessening  the  specific  gravity  and  giv- 
ing the  soap  the  quality  of  floating  on 
water. 

Molasses  Soap.  One  hundred  parts 
of  molasses  are  heated  in  a  boiler  pro- 
vided with  closed  serpentine  steam- 
pipes,  and  28  parts  of  ordinary  calcined 
soda  are  then  added  under  constant 
stirring.  As  soon  as  solution  is  com- 
plete, 100  parts  of  oleic  acid  are  care- 
fully added,  so  that  the  carbonic  acid 
of  the  soda,  which  is  liberated,  first 
escapes.  When  all  the  oleic  acid  has 
been  added,  the  compound  is  for  a  short 
time  heated  to  the  boiling  point.  The 
process  is  very  quick,  it  being  possible 
to  produce  20,000  pounds  of  soap  in  2 
hours.  One  hundred  parts  of  molasses 
yield  210  to  225  parts  of  soap,  which, 
according  to  the  time  of  boiling,  is  either 
half-hard  or  entirely  hard. 

The  process  for  soft  soap  is  the  same, 
only  potash  being  used  instead  of  soda. 
For  ordinary  soft  soap  take  100  parts 
of  molasses/ 100  of  oleic  acid,  JO  of  pot- 
ash, 10  of  soda,  and  50  of  water.  The 
yield  will  be  about  260  parts  of  soap. 

Cocoanut  Oil  and  Molasses  Sonp  is 
obtained  by  dissolving  caustic  soda  ift 


330 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


hot  molasses  and  adding  cocoanut  oil 
heated  to  167°  F.  One  hundred  parts 
each  of  molasses  and  eocoanut  oil  yield 
400  parts  of  very  good  hard  soap.  The 
same  kind  of  soap  is  obtained  by  taking 
100  parts  of  cocoanut  oil,  36  o'f  caustic 
soda-lye  of  36°  B.,  and  50  of  molasses, 
whereby  the  cocoanut  oil  must  also  be 
heated  to  167°  F.  When  other  kinds  of 
fat  are  used  a  longer  time  is  required 
for  boiling. 

Oranienburg  Soap.  The  quantity 
and  strength  of  the  lye  required  in  the 
manufacture  of  this  soap  depend  on  the 
fats  used ;  for  those  of  animal  origin,  as 
bone-fat,  tallow,  etc.,  it  may  be  from  15 
to  18  B.,  but  more  concentrated  lye, 
from  24  to  28°  B.  strong,  is  required  for 
the  saponification  of  palm  oil.  By 
reason  of  a  soap  of  yellowish  color 
being  in  demand  some  rosin  or  .crude 
palm  oil  is  added. 

The  following  receipts  furnish  Oran- 
ienburg soap  of  excellent  quality  and 
at  a  comparatively  low  cost : 


Bone-fat  .     .     . 
Tallow     .     .     . 
Palm  oil  .     .     . 
Cotton-seed  oil  . 
Crude  palm  oil 
Rosin  .... 

I. 

II. 

III. 

IV. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

400 
800 
1000 
200 
100 
400 

800 
400 
1000 
100 
250 
350 

2000 

400 
300 

2000 
300 
300 
400 

For  Nos.  I.  and  II.  saponification  can 
begin  with  lye  of  24°  B.,  while  Nos. 
III.  and  IV.  are  saponified  with  a  con- 
centrated lye  of  26°  B.  The  boiling 
process  is  the  same  for  all.  The  fats  are 
saponified  in  the  usual  manner  and  the 
soap  separated  with  hot  salt-water.  It 
is  then  allowed  to  stand  in  the  boiler 
24  hours  for  the  paste  to  settle  thor- 
oughly. 

Process  of  Preparing  all  Kinds  of 
Perfectly  Neutral  Soaps.  The  fats  to 
be  saponified  are  placed  in  a  cylindri- 
cal vessel  surrounded  with  a  jacket  and 
provided  with  a  stirring  apparatus. 
Water,  heated  by  steam  to  the  melting 
point  of  the  fat,  circulates  between  the 
jacket  and  the  cylinder.  A  solution 
of  soap,  20  per  cent,  of  fat,  or  any  other 
fluid  capable  of  promoting  an  emulsion, 
is  then  added,and  saponification  quickly 


accomplished  with  caustic  lye.  To 
avoid  cooling,  the  apparatus  must  be 
kept  covered  during  the  saponifying 
process,  and  the  heat  formed  by  the 
chemical  process  exhausted  as  much  as 
possible.  The  under-lye  contains  only 
caustic  soda  and  glycerine  iVee  from 
chlorine  and  has  a  concentration  of  5 
to  10°  B. 

Water-glass  Soap.  Both  hard  and 
soft  soaps  are  brought  into  commerce. 
Hard  Water-glass  Soap  is  prepared  as 
follows  :  One  hundred  pounds  of  cocoa- 
nut  oil  are  saponified  with  200  pounds 
of  soda-lye  of  20°  B.,  and  boiled  until 
all  froth  has  disappeared.  The  soap  is 
then  hardened  by  gradually  scattering 
calcined  soda  over  it  until  a  sample  as 
large  as  a  silver  dollar  congeals  with  a 
bluish  border.  In  600  pounds  of  soda 
water-glass  of  36  to  38°  B.  are  in  the 
meanwhile  placed  in  readiness.  Eigh- 
teen to  20  pounds  of  crude  glycerine 
mixed  with  50  pounds  of  soda-lye  of 
20°  B.  are  added  to  the  soap  while  it  is 
gently  boiling,  and  then  gradually  the 
water-glass,  testing  the  soap  from  time 
to  time,  until  all  has  been  added. 
Should  the  soap  be  still  too  soft,  it  is 
hardened  with  some  calcined  soda 
until  a  sample  on  congealing  shows  the 
above-mentioned  bluish  border,  when 
the  soap  will  be  hard  enough. 

Soft  Water-glass  Soap  is  prepared  as 
follows :  One  hundred  pounds  of  co- 
coanut oil  are  saponified  with  200 
pounds  of  soda-lye  of  20°  B.,  and  the 
paste  boiled  clear.  Six  hundred  pounds 
of  potash  water-glass  are  then  gradually 
added,  and  finally  potash-lye  of  20°  B. 
to  give  it  the  consistency  of  ordinary 
soft  soap. 

Both  kinds  of  soap  are  at  present 
successfully  used  in  dyeing,  wool-wash- 
ing, cotton-printing,  and  for  other  pur- 
poses. 

Sand  Soap.  Fifty  pounds  of  cocoa- 
nut  oil  are  saponified  in  the  ordinary 
way  with  about  100  pounds  of  soda-lye 
of  20°  B.,  shortened  with  salt,  hardened 
with  calcined  soda,  covered  while  hot, 
and  allowed  to  stand  quietly  in  the 
boiler  for  several  hours.  When  the 
soap  is  sufficiently  cooled  off  so  that  it 
can  be  brought  into  the  frame,  remove 
the  scum  before  the  soap  is  poured  out. 
Fifty  pounds  of  white  and  perfectly 
dry  sand  are  then  added  in  the  fol- 


SOAPS. 


331 


lowing  manner :  While  one  work- 
man rakes  the  soap  with  a  rake 
nearly  as  wide  as  the  frame  so  that  it 
can  be  conveniently  handled  without 
touching  the  sides  of  the  frame,  another 
sifts  the  sand  into  the  soap.  It  is  gen- 
erally perfumed  with  oil  of  lavender  3 
ounces,  oil  of  thyme  2i  ounces,  and  oil 
of  cumin  1}  ounces. 

The  soap  must  be  raked  until  it  is 
stiff  and  begins  to  congeal. 

Toilet  and  Medicated  Soaps.  Bitter 
Almond  Soap  in  the  Cold  Way. 
Cocoanut  oil  1750  parts  and  lard  750 
parts  are  saponified  with  1250  parts  of 
caustic  soda-lve  of  40°  B.,  17  parts  of 
oil  of  bitter  almonds,  and  21£  parts  of 
oil  of  bergamot. 

Bouquet  Soap.  Tallow  1000  parts, 
cocoanut  oil  2000  parts,  crude  palm-oil 
100  parts,  pulverized  orris  root  250 
parts,  soda-lye  of  40°  B.  1250  parts, 
potash-lye  of  40°  B.  100  parts,  musk  & 
part.  Perfume:  Sandal-wood  oil  2£ 
parts,  oils  of  bergamot  8  parts,  gerani- 
um 4  parts,  lavender  5  parts,  and  lemon 
3  parts. 

Bouquet  Soap  in  the  Cold  Way.  Co- 
coanut oil  2000  parts  are  saponified  with 
1000  parts  of  caustic  soda-lye  of  40°  B. 
Perfumed  with  oils  of  bergaraot  12  parts, 
sassafras  5  parts,  cloves  2  parts,  and 
sage  li  parts.  The  soap  is  colored 
dark  brown. 

Camphor  Soap.  Good  tallow  soap 
1500  parts,  rosemary  oil  40  parts,  oil  of 
lavender  5  parts,  and  camphor  60  parts. 
The  camphor  is  first  rubbed  fine  and 
mixed  with  the  perfume. 

Camphor  Soap  No.  II.  This  soap  is 
an  excellent  remedy  for  chilblains  and 
frosted  limbs.  One  thousand  parts  of 
cocoauut  oil  are  saponified  with  500 
parts  of  caustic  soda-lye  of  40°  B.,  and 
when  the  combination  is  complete  stir 
in  a  solution  of  75  parts  of  camphor 
dissolved  in  100  parts  of  alcohol  and 
50  parts  of  water. 

Camphor  and  Sulphur  Soap.  Cocoa- 
nut  oil  1200  parts,  soda-lye  of  38°  B. 
600  parts,  potassium  sulphate  100  parts 
dissolved  in  water  50  parts,  and  16 
parts  of  camphor  dissolved  in  the 
melted  cocoanut  oil. 

Ear/le  So-tp  (Brown}.  Cocoanut  oil 
7000  parts,  lard  30.  K)  parts,  soda-lye  of 
60°  B.  5000  parts.  The  soap  is  per- 


fumed with  essence  of  mirbane  16  parts, 
oils  of  bergamot  12  parts  and  cloves  7 
parts,  and  colored  with  14  parts  of  bril- 
liant brown. 

Family  Soap.  Cocoanut  oil  2500 
parts,  soda-lye  of  30°  B.  2000  parts. 
The  soap  is  perfumed  with  oils  of  ber- 
gamot and  cassia  each  4  parts,  oils  of 
sassafras  and  lemon  each  2  parts. 

Gall  Soap.  One  hundred  and  fifty 
parts  of  beef-gall  are  stirred  into  2500 
parts  of  melted  cocoanut  oil,  and  the 
latter  then  saponified  in  the  cold  way 
with  1200  parts  of  soda-lye  of  38°  B. 
The  soap  is  colored  with  33  parts  of 
ultramarine  green,  and  perfumed  with 
7i  parts  each  of  oils  of  lavender  and 
cumin. 

Glycerine  Soap  (Brilliant  and 
Transparent}.  Water  1050  parts,  loaf 
sugar  3000  parts,  glycerine  5700  parts, 
castor  oil  4800  parts,  cocoanut  oil  and 
tallow  each  6650  parts,  lye  of  40°  B. 
8300  parts,  alcohol  3500  parts,  and  per- 
fume 150  parts. 

A  double  boiler  heated  with  steam 
and  provided  with  a  stirring  apparatus 
is  used.  After  the  ingredients  have 
been  heated,  add  the  alcohol,  place  the 
cover  on  the  boiler,  and  put  the  stirring 
apparatus  in  motion.  As  soon  as  the 
mass  is  thoroughly  saponified  shut  off 
the  steam  and  stop  the  stirring  appa- 
ratus ;  let  the  soap  stand  quietly  6  to  8 
hours,  then  add  the  perfume  and,  when 
cooled  off  to  130°  or  133°  F.,  pour  the 
soap  into  the  frame,  and  let  it  congeal 
as  quickly  as  possible.  The  soap  be- 
comes brilliant.  As  the  price  of  glyc- 
erine is  rather  high  at  present  it  might 
be  advisable  to  use  less  glycerine,  and 
substitute  sugar-water.  It  seerns  also 
more  advisable  to  saponify  the  fats  first, 
and  then  add  the  sugar-water,  glyc- 
erine, etc.,  as  otherwise  the  soap  might 
easily  acquire  a  dark  color. 

Glycerine  Soap  (Transparent}.  Heat 
cocoanut  oil  1200  parts,  tallow  1000 
parts,  castor  oil  600  parts,  to  180°  F., 
and  add  glycerine  600  parts.  Then  add 
1500  parts  of  hot  caustic  soda-lye  and 
200  parts  of  alcohol,  and  saponification 
will  take  place.  Cover  the  boiler  to 
prevent  evaporation  of  the  alcohol,  and 
fill  the  soap  with  500  parts  of  solution 
of  sugar  in  the  proportion  of  1  part  of 
refined  sugar  dissolved  in  2  of  distilled 


332 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


water.  Heat  the  solution  to  167°  F., 
and  stir  it  into  the  hot  soap. 

This  soap  is  brilliant  and  compara- 
tively cheap. 

A  substitute  filling  is  now  much  used 
in  making  glycerine  soap.  Prepare  a 
soap  with  10  parts  of  cocoanut  oil  and 

10  of  hot  caustic  soda  of  30°  B.,  and 
keep  for  use.     Dissolve  2400  parts  of 
this  ground  soap  in  7000  parts  of  clear 
salt  water  of  13°   to  15°  B.,  add  500 
parts  of  potash  of  96°  B.,  and  heat  the 
whole  to  about  167°  F. ;  then  add  1150 
parts  of  95  per  cent,  alcohol  and  cover 
the  boiler.    The    filling  will   become 
clear,  the  impurities,  etc.,  settling  on  the 
bottom.    It  is  kept  in  well-closed  glass 
balloons.     To  5000  parts  of  soap  30  to 
50  per  cent,  and   frequently   more  of 
this  filling  is  used. 

Iodide  Soap  is  used  for  preparing 
iodide  baths,  and  is  considered  a  rem- 
edy for  cutaneous  diseases.  It  is  pre- 
pared in  the  cold  way  in  the  following 
manner:  Twenty  pounds  of  cocoanut 

011  are  saponified  with  10  pounds  of 
caustic  lye  of  40°  B.,  and,  when  saponi- 
fication   is  complete,   a   solution  of  3 
pounds  of  potassium  iodide  in  4  pounds 
of  water  is  added. 

KummerfeldC  s  Soap  for  Frosted 
Limbs.  Of  cocoanut  oil  1200  parts, 
flowers  of  sulphur  50  parts,  camphor 
dissolved  in  alcohol  50  parts,  soda- 
lye  of  40°  B.  800  parts,  potash-lye  of 
40°  B.  100  parts. 

Lemon    Soap.    Cocoanut    oil     1000 
parts,   caustic  soda-lye  of  40°  B.  500  | 
parts,  oils  of  lemon  and  bergamot  each  ' 
4  parts.      The    soap  is    colored    pale 
yellow. 

Lily  Soap.  Wax  soap  3000  parts, 
starch  300  parts,  oils  of  bergamot  16-V 
parts,  geranium  6V  parts,  cassia  IV 
parts,  of  sandal-wood  I  part,  cedar  oil, 
tinctures  of  musk  and  tonka  bean  each 
3V.  parts,  and  tincture  of  storax  10 
parts. 

Mignonette  Soap.  Wax  soap  2500 
parts,  starch  400  parts,  mignonette  Hi 
parts,  genuine  Turkish  rose  oil  H 
parts,  oil  of  geranium  5  parts,  essence 
of  iris  3V,  parts,  oil  of  bitter  almonds  2V 
parts,  tincture  of  musk  5  parts,  and 
tincture  of  storax  10  parts. 

Musk  Soap  in  the  Cold  Way.  Cocoa- 
nut  oil  2000  parts,  caustic  soda-lye  of 
40°  B.  1000  parts,  tincture  of  musk  10 


parts,  oil  of  bergamot  6  parts,  oil  of 
lemon  3V,  parts.  Color  the  soap  light 
brown. 

Orange  Soap.  Good  white  tallow 
soap  600  parts,  oils  of  neroli  1  part, 
bergamot  |  part,  orange  2  parts,  azalea 

1  part,  petit-grain  2  parts,  lemon  1  part, 
geranium  2  parts,  essence  of  Portugal  1 
part,  infusion  of  civet  2  parts,  and  in- 
fusion of  musk  1  part. 

Patchouli  Soap.  Good  white  tallow 
soap  1250  parts,  oil  of  patchouli  12i 
parts,  and  oil  of  sandal-wood  2  parts. 

Pumice  Soap  (Prime)  in  the  Cold 
Way.  Cocoanut  oil  2000  parts  and  lye 
of  40°  B.  1000  parts  are  saponified  in 
the  ordinary  way.  Five  hundred  parts 
of  pumice-stone,  finely  pulverized,  are 
then  stirred  in,  the  soap  ladled  into  the 
frame  and  perfumed  with  oils  of  cassia 

2  parts,  bergamot  8  parts,  cloves  1  part, 
lavender  1  part. 

Rose  Soap.  Cocoanut  oil  2000  parts, 
caustic  soda-lye  of  40°  B.  1000  parts, 
oils  of  geranium  and  bergamot  each  8 
parts,  rose  oil  i  part,  tincture  of  musk 
H  parts. 

Savon  de  Riz.  Wax  soap  2700  parts, 
starch  400  parts,  oil  of  geranium  3£ 
parts,  essence  of  Portugal  and  oil  of 
bergamot  each  5  parts,  essence  of  mir- 
bane  3£  parts,  tincture  of  benzoin, 
colored  white  or  red,  I  part,  cinnabar  8 
parts. 

Savon  Ess  :  Bouquet.  Wax  soap  2500 
parts,  iris  powder  200  parts,  starch  300 
parts,  oils  of  geranium  7V  parts,  berga- 
mot 15  parts,  cinnamon  12-l:  parts 
tincture  of  storax  9  parts,  tincture  of 
musk  3  parts,  sugar  color  for  coloring 
12i  parts. 

Savon  Orange.  Good  white  tallow 
soap  3000  parts,  scraps  of  cocoanut  oil 
soap  750  parts,  flour  250  parts,  oils  of 
neroli,  orange,  and  petit-grain  each  10 
parts,  bergamot  5  parts,  essences  of 
lemon  5  parts,  geranium  10  parts, 
American  Portugal  5  parts,  infusion  of 
civet  10  parts,  and  infusion  of  musk  5 
parts. 

Soap  Or  ernes.  The  soft  toilet  soaps 
are  mostly  prepared  from  lard  and 
caustic  potash-lye  of  30°  B.  Melt 
the  lard  over  a  water-bath,  and  stir  in 
hot  lye  in  a  thin  stream;  then  work  the 
mass  with  a  pestle  to  a  pearl  tint,  which 
will  be  improved  in  appearance  by 
using  3  parts  of  potash-lye  and  1  part 


SOAPS. 


333 


of  socla-lye.  The  pigment  and  perfume 
dissolved  in  alcohol  are  added  while 
Working  the  soap.  The  soap  cremes, 
by  reason  of  their  convenient  applica- 
tion, are  much  in  demand. 

Crime  D'Amandes  Ameres.  Lard 
600  parts,  caustic  potash-lye  of  38°  B. 
250  parts,  and  caustic  soda-lye  of  38° 
B.  50  parts.  Perfume  :  oils* of  bitter 
almonds  3  parts  and  bergainot  i  part. 

Crime  a  la  Hose.  Lard  600  parts, 
caustic  potash-lye  of  38°  B.  250  parts, 
aud  caustic  soda-lye  of  38°  B.  50  parts. 
Perfume :  oils  of  hergamot  3  parts  and 
geranium  li  parts. 

Besides  soap  cremes  transparent  and 
white  soft  soaps  are  manufactured  from 
lard,  olive  oil,  tallow,  etc.  They  are 
boiled  with  potash-lye  and  used  as 
toilette  and  shaving  soaps. 

Sulphur  Soap.  Cocoanut  oil  1000 
parts  is  saponified  with  500  parts  of 
caustic  lye  of  40°  B.  and  75  parts  of 
flowers  of  sulphur  stirred  in. 

Swiss  Herb  Soap.  Melt  together 
over  a  water-bath  500  parts  each  of 
best  quality  of  cocoanut  oil  and  tallow, 
add  150  parts  of  glycerine  of  28°  B., 
200  parts  of  refined  sugar  dissolved  in 
225  parts  of  water ;  mix  375  parts  of  96 
per  cent,  alcohol  with  550  parts  of  soda- 
lye,  and  add  to  the  solution,which  is  then 
heated  as  quickly  as  possible  to  190° 
F.  with  constant  stirring.  It  is  then 
taken  from  the  water-bath,  and,  under 
constant  stirring,  allowed  to  cool  off  to 
144^,°  F.  The  soap  is  now  colored  with 
i  to  J  part  of  uranium  green  pre- 
viously dissolved  in  alcohol  or  boiling 
water,  and  perfumed  with  2i  parts  each 
of  oils  of  bergamot  and  peppermint,  and 
11  each  of  oils  of  aniseed  and  lavender. 
It  is  finally  filtered  through  gauze  into 
a  frame  of  sheet-zinc,  which  is  lightly 
covered. 

Tannin  Soap.  Saponify  900  parts 
of  cocoanut  oil  with  450  parts  of  soda- 
lye  of  40°  B.,  and  add  25  parts  of  tan- 
nin previously  dissolved  in  alcohol. 
The  soap  is  perfumed  with  Peruvian 
balsam  3  parts,, oils  of  cassia  and  cloves 
each  1  part. 

Tar  Soap.  I.  Melt  together  20  parts 
of  cocoanut  oil  and  3  parts  tar,  and 
saponify  in  the  ordinary  manner  with 
25"  parts  caustic  lye  of"  40°  B.  This 
soap  is  used  for  cutaneous  diseases. 

II.  Scraps  of  cocoanut  oil  soap  can 


be  utilized  by  dissolving  them  in  solu- 
tion of  salt  of  10°  B.,  and  stirring  about 
30  parts  of  it  with  3  parts  of  coal  tar. 

III.  Cocoanut  oil  350  parts,  lye  of 
40°  B.  180  parts,  good  wood  tar  stirred 
into  the  melted  cocoanut  oil  30  parts. 

Vaseline  Soap,  Cocoanut  oil  200 
parts,  vaseline  25  parts,  lye  of  40°  B.  95 
parts,  and  water  5  parts. 

Violet  (Prime).  Cocoanut  oil  best 
quality  500  parts,  soda-lye  of  38°  B. 
240  parts,  and  potash-lye  of  38°  B.  10 
parts.  The  soap  is  perfumed  with  10 
parts  of  orris  root  and  5  parts  of  liquid 
storax  stirred  into  the  fat;  and  oils  of 
cassia,  sassafras,  and  bergamot  each 
i  part,  oil  of  lavender  J  part,  Peruvian 
balsam  £  part,  oil  of  orange  fs  part,  oil 
of  rose  A,  essence  of  musk  i  part, 
and  colored  with  £  part  of  brilliant 
brown  previously  dissolved  in  boiling 
water. 

Violet  Soap.  I.  Tallow  100  parts, 
cocoanut  oil  140  parts,  pulverized  orris 
root  30  parts,  pulverized  orange  peel 
ij  parts,  and  storax  2i  parts.  The 
storax  is  dissolved  with  constant  stir- 
ring in  10  parts  of  the  cocoanut  oil 
over  a  moderate  fire,  poured  through 
gauze,  and  added  to  the  fat.  One- 
thirtieth  part  of  musk  is  then  tritu- 
rated with  some  lye  and  water,  and  the 
whole  saponified  with  120  parts  of  soda- 
lye  of  38  per  cent.,  and  perfumed  with 
1§  parts  of  oil  of  bergamot,  2  parts  of 
oil  of  lavender,  li  parts  of  Peruvian 
balsam,  and  &  part  of  oil  of  cassia,  and 
colored  with  1  part  of  cinnabar. 

Violet  Soap.  II.  Melt  together  315 
parts  of  cocoanut  oil  and  150  parts  of 
crude  palm  oil,  cool  off  to  108°  F., 
pour  through  gauze  and  color  with  f 
part  of  cinnabar.  Then  take  20  parts 
of  pulverized  orris  root,  2£  parts  of 
pulverized  orange  peel,  and  1J  parts 
of  pulverized  benzoin,  pass  the  whole 
through  a  fine  sieve,  and  add  it,  with 
constant  stirring,  to  the  fat.  When 
all  the  powder  is  dissolved,  saponifica- 
tion  is  accomplished  with  170  parts 
of  soda-lye  of  38°  B.,  and  the  soap 
perfumed  with  oils  of  lavender  and 
bergamot  each  §  part,  oils  of  cassia  and 
cloves  each  *  part,  and  tincture  of 
musk  §  part.  The  soap  does  not  need 
coloring,  as  it  is  naturally  of  a  beauti- 
ful brown. 

White    Alabaster    Soap.       Stearine 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


65  parts,  cocoanut  oil  best  quality  110 
parts,  glycerine  65  parts,  caustic  soda- 
lye  of  38°  to  39°  B.  90  parts,  alcohol 
of  96  per  cent.  130  parts. 

White  Windsor  Soap.  Good  white 
tallow  soap  200  parts,  oils  of  lavender 
i  part,  cassia  \  part,  neroli  \  part, 
essence  of  Portugal  i  part,  and  oil  of 
cinnamon  &  part. 

Shaving  Soap  in  the  Cold  Way. 
Melt  together  250  parts  of  tallow,  125 
parts  of  cocoanut  oil  and  25  parts  of 
lard,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  cool 
off  to  115°  F ;  then  add  275  parts  of 
caustic  soda-lye  of  30°  B.  and  75  parts 
of  caustic  potash-lye,  and  perfume  the 
soap  with  1  part  of  oil  of  lavender 
and  i  part  each  of  oils  of  thyme  and 
cumin. 

Soap  for  Washing  Silk  Goods.  Melt 
in  a  suitable  boiler  1500  parts  of  soap 
converted  into  fine  shavings,  a  like 
quantity  of  beef-gall,  165  parts  of 
honey,  150  parts  of  pulverized  sugar, 
and  25£  parts  of  Venetian  turpentine, 
and  pour  the  mass,  while  yet  hot,  into 
a  mould  previously  lined  with  a  cloth 
dipped  in  cold  water.  The  soap  will 
become  hard  in  the  course  of  24  hours 
and  ready  for  washing  silk  goods. 

To  Give  a  Gloss  to  the  Surface 
of  Toilet  Soaps  they  are  generally 
scraped,  dipped  into  dilute  lye,  and, 
when  dry,  brushed.  This  rather 
tedious  labor  can,  according  to  Depuis, 
be  done  by  steam.  The  soap,  before 
or  after  drying,  is  submitted  to  a  cur- 
rent of  steam,  which  may  be  perfumed 
before  reaching  the  soap  by  passing 
through  a  cloth  impregnated  with  the 
perfume.  The  action  of  the  steam 
effects  at  once  an  alteration  in  the 
surface  of  the  cakes  or  bars  of  soap, 
forming  a  salt  of  varying  composition 
according  to  the  fats  used.  By  uni- 
formly distributing  this  salt  upon  the 
surface  of  the  soap  with  a  moist  linen 
cloth,  all  the  pores  and  irregularities 
of  surface  are  closed,  and,  when  dry, 
forms  a  very  glossy  coating  which  is 
not  injured  even  in  the  moulding 
press. 

New  Process  of  Treating  Fats.  By 
this  process  the  tar-like  substances 
formed  in  saponification  with  sul- 
phuric acid  are,  by  a  simple  method, 
removed,  and  complete  decomposition 
is  accomplished  by  an  addition  of  di- 


lute sulphuric  acid,  and  boiling  under 
pressure  in  a  closed  apparatus.  The 
fat  is  completely  decomposed,  and  the 
glycerine  obtained  as  a  clear  fluid. 
We  may  divide  the  process  into  4 
distinct  operations:  1,  treating  the  fat 
with  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  with 
development  of  sulphurous  acid;  2, 
removing  the  tar-like  substances;  3, 
decomposition  with  dilute  sulphuric 
acid  in  a  closed  vessel  under  a  pressure 
of  3  to  4  atmospheres;  and,  4,  treating 
the  sebates  in  the  cold  and  warm  press. 

1st  Operation.  The  fats  are  heated 
in  a  vessel  lined  with  lead  to  250°  to 
300°  F.,  fresh  fats  requiring  a  higher 
temperature  than  old  stock.  Sulphuric 
acid  in  the  proportion  of  1  to  1.5  parts 
to  100  parts  of  fat  is  then  added  with 
constant  stirring,  and  the  stirring  con- 
tinued until  the  temperature  is  reduced 
to  212°  F.  This  operation  prepares  the 
fats  for  decomposition.  The  mass  be- 
comes black  under  development  of  sul- 
phurous acid,  by  reason  of  which 
arrangements  must  be  made  for  the 
protection  of  the  workmen  against  the 
injurious  effects  of  the  acid.  The  fat, 
when  the  temperature  is  reduced  to 
212°  F.,  is  brought  into  another  vessel. 

2d  Operation.  To  100  parts  of  fat 
treated  with  concentrated  sulphuric 
acid  add  50  parts  of  hot  water.  The 
compound  is  thoroughly  agitated  and 
then  allowed  to  settle,  whereby  the 
greatest  part  of  the  tar-like  bodies  is 
dissolved.  The  fat  is  then  skimmed  off 
and  brought  into  another  pan.  To 
every  100  parts  of  it  50  parts  of  water 
are  added  ;  it  is  boiled  for  a  short  time 
and  then  again  allowed  to  settle  for  a 
few  hours.  If  the  sebacic  acids  are  to 
be  distilled,  two  washings  are  sufficient, 
but  if  the  acids  are  to  be  worked  up 
without  distilling,  it  is  best  to  wash  a 
third  time.  The  fat  will  then  be  en- 
tirely cleansed  from  all  tar-like  sub- 
stances originated  in  the  first  operation. 

3d  Operation.  The  purified  fat  is 
brought  into  a  vat  lined  with  lead,  and, 
according  to  the  condition  of  the  fat,  3 
to  4  per  cent,  of  concentrated  sulphuric 
acid  previously  diluted  with  double  its 
quantity  of  water  is  added.  The  vessel 
is  then  closed,  and  the  fat  boiled  by  in- 
troduction of  steam  under  a  pressure 
of  3  to  4  atmospheres  for  4  to  5  hours, 
which  completes  the  decomposition. 


SOAPS. 


335 


The  glycerine  sulphuric  acid,  by  reason 
of  the  three  washings  in  the  second  op- 
eration, is  entirely  clear  and  almost 
colorless;  it  is  neutralized  with  lime 
and  evaporated.  One  hundred  parts  of 
tallow  yield  by  this  process  7  parts  of 
glycerine  in  no  respect  inferior  to  that 
obtained  by  lime-saponificatioii.  If  the 
sebacic  acids  are  to  be  distilled  it 
suffices  to  treat  them  with  boiling 
water,  but  if  they  are  to  be  pressed  un- 
distilled  they  must  be  washed  with 
boiling  water  to  which  1  per  cent,  of 
sulphuric  acid  has  been  added.  All  that 
remains  then  is  cold  and  warm  pressing. 

Balling's  Method  of  Preparing 
Caustic  Soda-lye.  Dissolve  by  intro- 
ducing steam  100  parts  of  calcined 
soda  of  80  to  90  per  cent,  in  600  of  clear 
water;  then  add  60  to  70  parts  of 
burned  lime  which,  on  becoming  slaked 
in  the  hot  fluid,  raises  the  temperature. 
Carbonate  of  calcium  is  formed  which 
settles  in  a  short  time,  and  the  clear 
lye  is  then  drawn  off.  The  carbonate 
o"f  calcium  is  vyashed  with  water,  this 
wash  water  being  afterwards  used  in 
preparing  the  caustic  soda-lye,  giving 
a  product  of  15° to  16°  B. ;  100  parts  of 
this  lye  will  saponify  400  parts  of  tallow. 

The  caustic  lye  thus  obtained  is  at 
once,  and  without  being  concentrated 
by  evaporation,  used  for  boiling  soap. 
It  is  one  of  the  principal  requisites  that 
only  fresh  caustic  lye  should  be  used  in 
boiling  soap.  The  lye  is  first  placed  in 
the  boiler  and  then  the  tallow.  The 
latter  melts,  covering  the  surface  of  the 
lye  and  preventing  the  access  of  air  to 
it,  and  the  saponitication  of  the  fat  is 
hastened  by  the  quicker  boiling  of  the 
lye. 

By  this  process  but  very  little  under- 
lye  is  obtained.  This  contains  the  for- 
eign constituents  of  the  soda,  common 
salt,  and  Glauber's  salt,  on  which  the 
separation  of  the  soap  from  the  under- 
lye  depends.  Salting  is  required  only 
for  potash  soaps. 

The  soap  is  allowed  to  remain  quietly 
in  the  boiler  for  i  hour  to  allow  the 
under-lye  to  separate.  It  is  then 
poured  into  the  frame  and  when  cold 
divided  into  bars. 

The  under-lye  obtained  is  of  a  dark 
brown  color  aiid  contains,  besides  com- 
mon salt  and  Glauber's  salt,  some  glyc- 
erine. When  a  considerable  quantity 


has  been  collected,  it  is  boiled  down, 
whereby  a  part  separates  as  black  soap. 
The  dry  residue  is  calcined  and  fur- 
nishes a  black  substance  which,  after 
lixiviation,  gives  a  colorless  lye.  By 
evaporating  the  latter  a  white  sub- 
stance containing  considerable  quan- 
tities of  soda  is  obtained,  which  on 
being  dissolved  and  made  caustic  with 
lime  can  be  again  used  as  lye. 

TUNNERMANN'S  Table  giving  the  Per- 
centage of  Soda  in  a  Soda-lye  at 
59°  F. 


Per  cent. 

Specific 

Per  cent. 

Specific 

of  soda. 

gravity. 

of  soda. 

gravity. 

0.302 

1.0040 

15.714 

1.2453 

0.604 

1.0081 

16.319 

1.2515 

1.209 

1.0163 

16.923 

1.2578 

1.813 

1.0246 

17.528 

1.2642    . 

2.418 

1.0330 

18.132 

1.2708 

3.022 

1.0414 

18.730 

1.2775 

3.626 

1.0500 

19,341 

1.2843 

4.231 

1.0587 

19.945 

1.2912 

4.835 

1.0675 

20.550 

1.-/982 

5.440 

1.0764 

21.154 

1.3053 

6.044 

1.0855 

21.758 

1.3125 

6.648 

1.0948 

21.894 

1.3143 

7.253 

1.1042 

22.363 

13198 

7.857 

1.1137 

22.967 

1.3273 

8.462 

1.1233 

23.572 

1.3:549 

9.066 

1.1330 

24.176 

1.3426 

9.670 

1.1428 

24.780 

1.3505 

10.275 

1.1628 

25.385 

1.3586 

10.879 

1.1630 

25.989 

1.3668 

11.484 

1.1734 

2H.594 

1.3751 

12.088 

1.1841 

27.200 

1.3836 

12692 

1.1948 

27.802 

1.3923 

13297 

12058 

28.407 

1.4011 

13.901 

1.2178 

29.011 

1.4101 

14.506 

1.2280 

29.616 

1.4193 

15.110 

1.2392 

30.220 

1.4285 

TUNNERMANN'S  Table  showing  the  Per- 
centage of  Anhydrous  Potash  in  Pot- 
ash-lye at  59°  F. 

Per  cent. 

Specific 

Per  cent. 

Specific 

of  potash. 

gravity. 

of  potash. 

gravity. 

05658 

1.0050 

15.277 

1.1568 

1697 

1.0153 

16  408 

11702 

2.829 

1.0200 

17.540 

1.1838 

3.961 

1.0369 

18.671 

1.1979 

5002 

1.0478 

19.803 

1  212:i 

6.224 

1.0589 

20.935 

1.2268 

7.355 

1.0703 

21  500 

1  2342 

8.487 

1  .0839 

22.632 

1.2493 

9.619 

1.0938 

23.764 

1.2648 

10750 

1.1059 

24.895 

1.2805 

11.882 

1  1182 

26.027 

1.2906 

13.013 

1.1318 

27.1S8 

1  3131 

14.145 

1  1437 

28200 

1.3300 

336 


TECHNO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 

PRINZ'S  PRACTICAL  SOAP-BOILING  TABLE. 

Hard  Soaps. 


100  parts  of  the  following  fata 

require  for  complete  saponification,  of  soda: 

ts 

I« 

2a 

Parts  of 
Na  0,  HO 

Parts  of  Na 
OC02 

of  soda-lye  of  degrees 
Beaume. 

10 

20 

25 

30 

Tallow,  suet,  stearine,  stearolic  acid  .     .     . 
Free  elaic  acid   oleic  acid  

.OK 
$ 

13% 

ulA 

15 

17^ 

S* 

20 
23 

273 

287 
300 
350 

137 

143 
15O 

175 

105 
110 
115 
135 

80 
84 
89 
103 

Palm  oil            .     .               .          

Soft  Soaps. 


require  for  complete  saponification,  of  potash 


100  parts  of  the  following  fats 

Parts  of 
KaO 

Parts  of  Ka 
OHO 

Parts  of  Ka 
OC03 

of  potash-lye  of  degrees 

Iti'itumc. 

8 

20 

2G 

35 

72 
75 

7 
90 

Tallow,  suet,  stearine,  stearolic  acid  .    .     . 
Free  elaic  acid,  oleic  acid  

16 

16% 
17^ 

20^ 

19^ 

20 

24}| 

24 
25 
26 
30^ 

322 

333 
345 

405 

129 
133 
138 

162 

97 
100 
103 

122 

Palm  oil      

Cocoanut  oil    

Note  to  the  Table.  By  multiplying  the  quantity  of  potash  (column  3)  required  for  saponifica- 
tion with  3  and  dividing  the  product  by  7  the  quantity  of  quicklime  required  for  making  the 
lye  caustic  is  obtained. 

The  lyes  indicated  by  figures  printed  in  bold  type  accomplish  saponification  best,  those  by 
figures  in  medium  type  good,  while  the  work  is  difficult  with  lyes  indicated  by  figures  in  small 
type.  Of  the  4  fats  tallow  is  the  most  difficult  to  saponify,  palm  oil  less  so,  while  cocoauut  oil 
and  elaic  acid  are  the  easiest  to  work. 


SOLDERING  AND  SOLDERS. 

Soldering  is  the  process  of  uniting 
the  surfaces  of  metals  by  means  of  a 
more  fusible  metal  which",  being  melted 
upon  each  surface,  serves,  partly  by 
chemical  attraction  and  partly  by  cohe- 
sive force,  to  bind  chem  together.  There 
is  a  great  variety  of  solders,  known  by 
the  names  of  hard,  soft,  spelter^  silver, 
white,  gold,  copper,  tin,  plumbers',  and 
many  others.  Nearly  all  the  principal 
metals  take  part  in  the  composition  of 
solder,  and  most  unmelted  metals  can 
be  jointed  by  one  or  other  of  these 
solders.  The  metals  to  be  united  may 
be  either  the  same  or  dissimilar,  but 


the  uniting  metal  must  always  have 
an  affinity  for  both.  In  all  soldering 
processes  the  following  conditions  must 
be  observed :  1.  The  surfaces  to  be 
united  must  be  bright,  smooth,  and 
free  from  oxide ;  2.  The  contact  of  air 
must  be  excluded  during  the  soldering, 
because  it  is  apt  to  oxidize  one  or  other 
of  the  surfaces,  and  thus  to  prevent  the 
formation  of  an  alloy  at  the  points  of 
union.  The  most  frequently  employed 
solder  consists  of  tin  and  lead,  and 
melts  somewhere  between  329°  and 
563°  F.,  according  to  the  proportions 
of  the  ingredients.  A  flux  of  borax, 
etc.,  is  often  needed  to  insure  the  adhe- 
siou  of  the  solder  to  the  two  pieces  of 


SOLDERING  AND  SOLDERS. 


337 


metal,  and  soldering  irons  of  various 
kinds  are  required. 

Autogenous  /Soldering  takes  place  by 
the  fusion  of  the  two  edges  of  metais 
themselves  without  interposing  another 
metallic  alloy  as  a  bond  of  union. 
This  is  accomplished  by  directing  a 
jet  of  burning  hydrogen  gas  from  a 
small  movable  beak  upon  the  two  sur- 
faces or  edges  to  be  soldered  together. 
Metals  thus  joined  are  much  less  apt 
to  crack  asunder  at  the  line  of  union 
by  differences  of  temperature,  flexi- 
bility, etc.,  than  when  the  common 
soldering  process  is  employed.  This 
method  of  soldering  is  especially  of 
great  advantage  in  chemical  works  for 
joining  the  edges  of  sheet  lead  for  sul- 
phuric acid  chambers  and  concentra- 
tion pans,  because  any  solder  contain- 
ing tin  would  soon  corrode. 

Ordinary  Soft  Solder,  an  alloy  of  tin 
and  lead,  is  best  adapted  for  most 
metals,  with  the  exception  of  cast-iron, 
worked  in  the  various  industries.  Its 
composition  varies  very  much,  about 
equal  parts  of  the  metals  being  gener- 
ally taken;  2  parts  of  tin  to  1  of  lead 
furnishing  what  is  called  "  weak  soft 
solder,"  and  2  parts  of  lead  to  1  of  tin 
"strong  soft  solder."  A  composition 
consisting  of: 

Tin  1  part  and  lead  2  parts  melts  at  441.5°  F. 
"  1  "  "  "  1  part  "  "  371. 7°  F. 
'  2  parts"  "  1  "  "  "  340.2°  F. 

Bismuth  Solder  consists  of  2  parts  or 
more,  frequently  even  as  much  as  8 
parts,  of  tin  solder  and  1  part  of  bis- 
muth. It  is  more  fusible  than  tin 
solder,  and  for  this  reason  is  better 
suited  for  soldering  thin  articles  of 
plumbiferous  tin,  but  it  breaks  quite 
easily  and  is  therefore  but  little  used 
for  other  purposes.  A  composition 
consisting  of: 

Tin  8  parte  bismuth  1  part  melts  at  320°  F. 
"    6    "  "1     "        '«     ".°.11°F. 

"     4     "  "1     "        "     '« 2!t:5°  F. 

'     2     "  "1     "        "      "  230.7°  F. 

Darcel's  Metal  is  an  excellent  soft 
solder  consisting  of  lead  and  bismuth 
each  8  parts  and  tin  3  parts. 

Hard   Solders.      Cast-iron    may   be 
used  as  a  solder  for  wrought-iron,  but, 
being  very  refractory  and  brittle,  it  is 
but  seldom  used. 
22 


Copper  is  the  best  material  of  joining 
iron  to  iron  whether  wrought  or  cast. 
It  unites  the  two  surfaces  very  firmly 
and,  by  reason  of  its  natural  ductility 
and  toughness,  allows  of  the  soldered 
articles  being  bent  into  almost  any 
shape. 

Brass  Hard  Solder  consists  of  a 
mixture  of  brass  and  zinc  to  which  is 
sometimes  added  a  small  portion  of 
tin.  Wrought  or  rolled  brass  being 
more  homogeneous,  and  not  likely  to 
contain  an  undue  proportion  of  zinc, 
should  be  preferred  to  cast-brass  in 
preparing  the  solder.  The  proportions 
of  brass  and  zinc  vary  according  to 
the  purpose  intended ;  addition  of  zinc 
increases  the  fusibility  but  decreases  the 
ductility  and  also  the  durability  of  the 
solder.  A  very  good  hard  solder  for 
cast-steel,  wrought-iron,  steel,  copper, 
and  brass  (with  the  exception  of  cast- 
brass)  is  obtained  by  melting  7  parts 
of  brass  shavings  together  with  1  of 
zinc,  keeping  the  mixture  in  flux  for 
not  longer  than  6  to  7  minutes,  and 
then  pouring  out. 

Hard  Solder  containing  Tin.  In 
preparing  this  solder  it  is  best  to  melt 
the  brass  and  zinc  separately  in  2 
crucibles,  so  that  they  become  liquid 
at  the  same  time.  The  zinc  is  then 
carefully,  and  with  quick  and  constant 
stirring,  poured  in  the  brass  previously 
skimmed. 


I. 

II. 

in. 

IV. 

Pa 

ts. 

Brass  . 

18 

12 

12 

16 

Zinc 

3 

2 

Tin  free  from  lead      .    . 
Copper     

2 

..! 

2 

1 
16 

Other  solders  belonging  to  the  same 
order : 


I. 

II. 

III. 

IV. 

V. 

Parts. 

Copper 

33.34 

61.25 

13 

49.5 

24 

Zinc 

66.66 

38.75 

10 

50.5 

8 

Tin    .  .  . 

8 

Or,  tin  1  part,  brass  5;  or,  zinc  19 
parts,  brass  82 ;  or,  zinc  333  parts,  brass 
1000,  and  tin  125. 

Solder  for  A  ryentan  ( German  Silver). 


338 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


A  composition  consisting  of  argentan 
and  more  or  less  zinc  is  used  for  this. 
The  proportions  vary  very  much,  but, 
as  regards  durability  and  solidity  of 
the  solder,  it  is  best  to  take  as  little 
zinc  as  possible.  Argentan  by  itself  is 
well  suited  for  soldering  iron  and  steel 
articles. 


Hard  Silver  Solder  is  used  for  solder- 
ing silverware  and  fine  articles  of  brass, 
copper,  steel,  and  iron.  It  consists  of 
silver  with  a  large  addition  of  copper, 
or  of  silver,  copper,  and  zinc. 

a.  Hard  Silver  Solder  (for  the  first 
soldering)  is  generally  composed  of: 


I. 

II. 

III. 

IV. 

V. 

VI. 

VII. 

VIII. 

IX. 

X. 

XI. 

Parts. 

Fine  silver 

4 

2 

19 

57 

66.  7 

663 

50 

11 

16 

6 

9 

Copper  

1 

28.6 

23.3 

25.7 

33.4 

Brass 

3 

1 

10 

4 

15 

76 

157 

Zinc 

5 

143 

10 

11 

16  6 

1 

1 

18 

35 

b.  Softer  Hard  Silver  Solder  for  after- 
soldering,  i.  e.,  for  soldering  articles 
having  parts  already  soldered  and 


therefore    requiring    a   more    fusible 
solder : 


I. 

II. 

III. 

IV. 

v. 

VI. 

VII. 

VIII. 

IX. 

Parts. 

Medium  fine  silver   .... 
Zinc    

7 
1 

16 

1 

16 
1 

3.5 
1 

2 
1 

10.5 
3 

68.8 

8.2 

67.1 
10.5 

48.3 
16.1 

Copper    

2.6 

3 

4.5 

23 

24.4 

32.3 
•  3  3 

Hard  Gold  Solders  for  soldering  gold- 
Avare,  and  sometimes  fine  articles  of 
steel,  are  generally  divided  into : 

1.  Easily  Liquefiable  Solder  for  Arti- 
cles of  less  than  14-carat  gold.  Four- 
teen-carat  gold  10  parts,  fine  silver  5, 
zinc  1.  This  solder  serves  for  yellow 
gold  which  it  resembles  in  color,  and 
also  for  finer  goldware  which  is  not  to 
be  colored. 

3.  Refractory  Solder  for  Articles  of 
14-carat  gold  and  over,  especially  when 
they  are  to  be  colored.  Fine  gold  16 
parts,  fine  silver  9,  copper  8. 

3.  Solder  for  Articles  of  20-carat 
gold  which  are  to  be  enamelled,  and 


by  reason  of  the  heat  to  which  they  are 
exposed  during  the  process  require  a 
very  refractory  solder:  a.  Fine  gold 
37  parts,  fine  silver  9.  b.  Eighteen- 
carat  gold  16  parts,  fine  silver  3,  cop- 
per .1. 

Very  Refractory  Solders  for  Articles  to 
be  enamelled. 


I. 


III. 


II. 

Parts. 

Copper 25        0.1 

Silver 7  3          9 

Gold 68         16        37 

Other  Hard  Gold  Solders  for  articles 
of  gold  of  14-carat  and  over  are  com- 
posed of: 


I. 

II. 

III. 

IV. 

V. 

VI. 

VII. 

VIII. 

IX. 

Parts. 

24  2 

33.4 

37.5 

26.1 

27.1 

27.2 

29.2 

33.3 

31.3 

Silver              .                   .     . 

27  3 

Itt.  6 

18.75 

•^5 

76.7 

31.8 

33.3 

37.5 

50 

Gold  

48.5 

50 

43.75 

48.9 

56.2 

40.9 

37.5 

29.2 

18.7 

SOLDERING  AND  SOLDERS. 


339 


Good  Sard  Solder  used  for  soldering 
brass  is  prepared  from  an  alloy  of  6 
parts  of  copper  with  4  of  brass  and  10 
of  tin.  The  copper  and  brass  are  first 
melted  and  the  tin  is  then  added. 
When  the  whole  is  melted  together  it  is 
poured  upon  a  bundle  of  twigs  held 
over  a  tub  of  water,  into  which  it  falls 
in  granulations.  The  granulated  metal 
is  then  dried  and  pounded  to  the  re- 
quired fineness  in  a  mortar.  By  add- 
ing to  this  alloy  2  parts  of  zinc  a  still 
more  fusible  solder  is  obtained.  For 
soldering  platinum,  fine  gold  cut  up  in 
small  pieces  is  used. 

An  Excellent  Soft  Solder  is  obtained 
by  melting  together  equal  parts  of  bar- 
tin  and  lead.  It  is  used  for  soldering 
tin  plates  together,  and  gives  very  good 
results.  The  following  table  gives  a 
number  of  alloys  for  soft  solder  and 
their  respective  melting  points  : 


Soft  Solder  for  Cast  Britannia 
Metal.  Melt  together  lead  10  parts, 
tin  16. 

Solder  for  Pewter.  Melt  together 
tin  30  parts,  lead  15,  and  bismuth  3 
to  9. 

Hard  White  Solder  is  composed  of 
copper  24  parts,  zinc  and  tin  each  8. 

Hard  Yellow  Solders.  1  consists 
of  copper  13  parts  and  zinc  10. 

2.  This  is  especially  suitable  for  cop- 
persmiths. It  is  composed  of  zinc  49.5 
parts  and  copper  50.5. 

Solder  for  Gold  on  Aluminium 
Bronze.  Copper  8  parts,  aluminium 
12,  and  zinc  80,  melted  together  in  the 
order  mentioned.  For  larger  articles  : 
Copper  4  parts,  aluminium  6,  and  zinc 
90. 

Three  Excellent  Hard  Solders  found 
in  commerce  are  composed  as  follows : 


(Jopper    Zinc       Tin       Lead 

Bis- 

Melting 
Point. 

Parts.    Parts.    Parts.    Parts. 

0. 

m. 

muth. 

DegreesF. 

A.  Golden  yellow    53.50     43.33       2.12 

B.  Medium  light    43.75     50.58       3.75         1 

C.  White  .     .     .       57.50     27.90     14.90    trace. 

1 

25 

556 

2 

10 

541, 

To  Solder  Brass  and  Sheet-tin.    Tin 

4 

3 

482 

the  brass  where  it  is  to  be  soldered,  and 

5 

2 

441 

use  a  solder  consisting  of  2  parts  tin  and 

6 

1 

370 

1  lead. 

7 

I* 

1 

3:M 

To  Solder  Iron  and  Steel.    For  large 

8 
9 
10 

2 
3 
4 

1 

1 
1 

340 
356 
365 

pieces  of  iron  or  steel,  copper  or  brass 
is  used  as  solder.    Place  a  thin  strip  of 

11 
12 

5 
6 

1 
1 

378 
380 

copper  or  brass  along    the   junction, 
bind  the  plates  together  with  wire,  and 

13 
14 
15 

4 
3 

2 

4 
3 

2 

i 

1 
1 

320 
310 

292 

cover  them  an  inch  deep  with  clay  free 
from  sand.    For  soldering  iron  to  iron 

16 

1 

1 

1 

254 

bring  the  plates,  when  dry,  to  a  white 

17 

1 

2 

1 

334 

heat,  and  then  plunge  them  into  cold 

18 

5 

3 

1 

2U3 

water;  for  iron  to  steel  or  steel  to  steel 

19 

20 

2 

1 

1 

2 

cool  slowly  from  the  white  heat.    The 

vitrified  clay  is  then  broken  off. 
-__              ,  y          ,  «  i                              -IT 

For  smaller  articles  prepare  a  solder 

No.  8  is  used  for  soldering  cast-iron 
and      steel,    sal-ammoniac     or    rosin 

by  granulating  a  mixture  of  8  parts  of 
brass  with  1  of  zinc.     Mix  this  solder 

serving  as  a  flux.     Copper,  brass,  and 

with  borax  and  spread  it  over  the  arti- 

bronze can  also  be  soldered  with  the 

cles  to  be  joined. 

same  alloy  and  the  same  flux.      For 

For  very  small  articles  a  solder  pre- 

soldering tin-plate  and  sheet-iron  chlo- 
ride of  zinc  is  used  as  a  flux  with  the 

pared  by  melting  together  6  parts  of 
brass,  1  of  zinc,  and  1  of  tin  is  used. 

same  solder.    Lead  and  tin-pipes  are 

The  solder  is  beaten  into  thin  plates, 

soldered  with  Nos.  6,  7,  and  8,  using 

which  are  applied,  together  with  borax, 

rosin  and  olive  oil  as  flux. 

to  the  surfaces  of  the  articles  to  be  sol- 

Hi  Jver  Solder  for  Plated  Ware.    Melt    dered. 

together  silver  64  parts  and  brass  40.           Very  small  and  delicate  articles  are 

340 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


best  soldered  by  gold,  either  pure  or 
mixed  with  2  parts  of  silver  and  3  of 
copper. 

To  Solder  Steel  on  Sheet-iron.  Melt 
borax  in  an  earthenware  pot,  and  mix 
it  with  T\J  part  of  sal-ammoniac.  Cool 
it  upon  an  iron  plate,  and  add  an  equal 
weight  of  lime.  When  iron  and  steel 
are~to  be  soldered  together  bring  them 
first  to  a  red  heat,  and  spread  the  above 
mixture  over  them.  The  mixture  melts 
and  becomes  liquid  like  sealing-wax. 
The  pieces  of  metal  are  replaced  in  the 
fire  and  heated  again,  but  not  nearly  as 
strong  as  for  ordinary  soldering ;  they 
are  then  taken  out  and  the  two  surfaces 
united  by  hammering.  The  same  pro- 
cess is  also  recommended  for  soldering 
sheet-iron  tubes. 

Soldering  without  a  Soldering  Iron. 
Pieces  of  brass,  etc.,  can  be  soldered 
without  it  being  possible  to  detect  the 
joint  by  filing  the  pieces  so  that  they 
fit  exactly,  moistening  them  with  a  sol- 
dering liquid,  then  placing  a  piece  of 
smooth  tin-foil  between  them,  tying 
them  together  with  wire,  and  heating 
over  a  lamp  or  fire  until  the  tin-foil 
melts.  With  good  soft  solder  most  all 
soldering  can  be  done  over  a  lamp 
without  the  use  of  soldering  iron.  The 
different  degrees  of  fusibility  of  solders 
can  also  be  advantageously  used  for 
several  solderings  and  joints  on  the 
same  piece.  By  soldering  first  with  a 
fine  solder  composed  of  lead  2  parts,  tin 
1,  and  bismuth  2  there  will  be  no 
danger  of  melting  when  close  to  the 
jointed  part  another  piece  is  soldered 
on  with  solder  composed  of  lead  4  parts, 
tin  4,  and  bismuth  1.  The  following 
soldering  liquid  is  the  best  to  use : 
Equal  parts  of  water  and  hydrochloric 
acid  saturated  with  zinc. 

Soldering  Liquid  Causing  no  Rust 
is  prepared  as  follows :  Dissolve  small 
pieces  of  zinc  in  hydrochloric  acid  until 
the  acid  ceases  to  effervesce.  Then  add 
about  J  part  of  the  solution  of  spirit  of 
sal-ammoniac,  which  neutralizes  all 
acid,  and  finally  dilute  the  whole  with 
an  equal  quantity  of  water.  This  sol- 
dering liquid  causes  no  rust  on  iron 
or  steel,  and  does  excellent  service  in 
all  soldering  and  also  in  tinning  opera- 
tions. 

Another  Soldering  Liquid  Free  from 
Acid  is  prepared  by  mixing  10  parts  of 


pure  hydrochloric  acid  with  5  of  water, 
and  adding  gradually  to  the  mixture  5 
parts  of  zinc  cut  up  in  small  pieces.  It 
is  best  to  use  an  earthenware  or  glass 
vessel  with  a  wide  neck,  and,  by  reason 
of  the  escaping  gases  being  very  poison- 
ous, to  perform  the  work  in  the  open 
air.  When  all  the  zinc  has  been  added 
stir  frequently  with  a  wooden  rod  dur- 
ing the  first  day ;  the  next  day  heat  the 
vessel  gently  by  placing  it  in  hot  water 
or  hot  sand,  and  then  place  the  mixture 
aside  for  clearing.  In  a  few  days  pour 
oft'  the  clear  fluid,  and  add  a  solution 
of  i  part  of  sal-ammoniac  in  2  of 
water;  stir  thoroughly  and  put  the 
ready  liquid  in  earthen  jars  or  glass 
bottles. 

The  zinc  remaining  in  the  vessel  is 
rinsed  off  with  water,  dried,  and  kept 
for  future  use. 

If  a  stronger  liquid  is  desired,  the  last 
2  parts  of  water  may  be  omitted  and 
the  sal-ammoniac  directly  dissolved  in 
the  solution  of  zinc. 

Simple  Method  of  Soldering  Small 
Articles.  Moisten  the  surfaces  of  the 
metals  to  be  soldered  with  a  feather 
dipped  in  a  solution  of  sal-ammoniac, 
and  fit  the  joint  with  tin-foil  cut  to  the 
exact  size,  and  heat  the  metals  suffi- 
ciently to  melt  the  tin-foil.  When  cold 
the  surfaces  will  be  found  firmly  ce- 
mented together. 

To  Solder  Saws.  A  piece  of  char- 
coal, a  blowpipe,  some  spelter  and  bo- 
rax are  required.  File  the  ends  of  the 
saw  smooth,  so  that  one  side  laps  over 
the  other ;  fit  the  teeth  opposite  each 
other,  and  bind  it  with  iron  wire  to 
keep  in  place.  Then  moisten  the  lap 
with  borax  dissolved  in  water  and  place 
the  saw  on  the  charcoal.  Place  the 
broken  parts  near  a  gas  jet,  sprinkle 
the  parts  previously  wetted  with  the 
spelter,  and  blow  the  flame  of  gas  until 
the  spelter  runs;  let  it  get  cool  before 
removal.  When  quite  cold  file  it  flat 
with  the  other  part  of  the  saw. 


SUGARS,  GLUCOSE,  ETC. 

Preparation  of  Milk  Sugar.  By  the 
former  process  of  evaporating  the  whey 
in  order  to  gain  the  milk-sugar,  a 
large  part  of  it,  by  reason  of  the  per- 
centage of  acid,  passed  over  into  non- 


SUGARS,  GLUCOSE,  ETC. 


trystallizable  lactose.  By  Singling* s 
process  the  whey  is  neutralized  with 
whiting,  then  evaporated  to  one-half 
its  volume  and  allowed  to  settle.  The 
clear  whey  is  then  drawn  off  from  the 
precipitate,  consisting  of  albumen  and 
calcium  phosphate,  and  further  evap- 
orated. The  sugar  separates  from  the 
purified  solutions  in  cohering  lamina 
and  crusts.  The  mother  lye,  by  being 
further  evaporated,  yields  a  'second 
crystallization.  The  remaining  thick 
lye  can  be  still  further  worked  into 
sugar  by  dialysis.  By  this  process  100 
parts  of  summer  whev  yield  4  parts  of 
refined  milk-sugar.  By  allowing  the 
whey  to  freeze  and  removing  from  time 
to  time  the  ice-crust  formed,  a  solution 
rich  in  sugar  is  obtained  in  a  compara- 
tively short  time,  and  which  is  purer 
than  that  gained  by  evaporation,  since 
the  fat,  albumen,  and  salts  mostly  com- 
bine with  the  ice.  An  experiment  to 
obtain  milk-sugar  by  this  process  re- 
sulted in  a  yield  of  £  part  of  milk- 
sugar,  white  as  snow,  from  10  parts  of 
whey,  the  result  being  still  better  from 
winter  whey,  naturally  poor  in  sugar, 
100  parts  of"  which  yielded  2}  parts  of 
milk-sugar. 

Improvement  in  Refining  and  Crys- 
tallizing of  Starch  Sugar  (Glucose). 
Commercial  glucose  is  melted  and 
mixed  with  70  to  80  per  cent,  of  spirit 
of  wine  of  80°  Tralles,  or  with  pure 
pyroligneous  spirit.  To  the  resulting 
syrupy  mixture  add  pulverized  glu- 
cose, and  allow  the  whole  to  congeal  at 
a  temperature  of  above  86°  F.,  stirring 
it  frequently.  The  syrup  obtained  in 
the  manufacture  of  starch  can  also  be 
treated  in  this  manner.  The  resulting 
paste  is  pressed  and  treated  in  the  cen- 
trifugal machine,  and  the  alcohol  re- 
gained by  distilling  in  a  vacuum.  To 
prepare  solid  transparent  glucose  (dex- 
trose hydrate  C6  II12  O6  H2  O)  concen- 
trate in  a  vacuum  a  solution  of  glu- 
cose to  40°  (weighed  at  90°)  and  allow 
it  to  crystallize  in  moulds  at  a  temper- 
ature from  95°  to  120°  F.  At  a  lower 
temperature  it  crystallizes  in  wart-like 
masses. 

Refining  and    Preparation  of   An- 
hydrous   Glucose.        Evaporate    in    a  j 
vacuum  an  entirely  colorless  and  clear  i 
solution  of  glucose  until  a  sample  can 
scarcely  be  kneaded.     Then   mix  the 


evaporated  mass  with  10  to  25  parts 
by  weight  of  boiling  hot  methyl  al- 
cohol, and  pour  the  resulting  thin 
syrup  in  conical  moulds,  which  can  be 
closed.  Crystallization  will  be  com- 
plete in  2  or  3  days,  when  what  re- 
mains liquid  is  expelled  by  suction. 

For  producing  dense  and  solid 
sugar,  saturate  the  porous  mass  taken 
from  the  moulds  with  a  mixture  of 
100  parts  of  concentrated  syrup  and  80 
to  100  parts  of  pyroligneous  spirit  and 
allow  it  to  crystallize  at  an  ordinary 
temperature.  When  the  desired  den- 
sity has  been  obtained,  remove  the 
liquid  portion  by  suction  and  wash  the 
sugar  with  methyl  alcohol.  The 
methyl  alcohol  remaining  in  the  loaves 
is  distilled  off  by  bringing  the  loaves 
into  a  vacuum  pan,  a  temperature  of 
86°  F.  being  sufficient  at  the  start, 
and  need  only  be  raised  towards  the 
end  of  the  operation  to  120°  to  140°  F. 
The  pyroligneous  spirit  is  regained  by 
distillation  from  the  fluid  drawn  off  by 
suction. 

Apparatus  and  Process  for  the  Fab- 
rication of  Starch,  Glucose,  and  Hard 
Grape  Sugar  (Dextrose),  by  Wm.  T. 
Jepp,  of  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  Through  the 
hopper  A1  (Fig.  40)  the  corn,  etc.,  to  be 
worked  is  conveyed  into  the  closed 
steeping  vat  A  filled  with  water  of 
about  140°  F.,  and  distributed  by  an 
apparatus  over  the  entire  inner  sur- 
face of  the  vat.  The  material  sinks 
down,  while  the  foreign  admixtures 
are  removed  by  a  discharge  pipe. 
After  48  hours  the  water  is  drawn  off, 
and  the  corn  conveyed  by  an  elevator 
to  the  hopper  B1,  and  from  here  to  the 
mill  B2,  from  whence  it  passes  to  the 
shaking  sieve  C,  upon  which  falls  a 
constant  stream  of  water.  The  starch 
passes  through  the  sieve,  while  the 
bran  remains  behind  and  is  carried  by 
a  transport  screw  placed  underneath 
the  sieve  to  the  elevator  C",  and  is 
conveyed  by  this  to  the  crushing  ap- 
paratus D,  consisting  of  two  rubber 
collars  between  which  passes  a  wire 
cloth.  The  bran  is  here  freed  from 
moisture  and  starch,  the  bran  remain- 
ing upon  the  wire  cloth  while  the 
starch  is  collected  in  a  basin  beneath 
the  cloth  and  runs  from  here  into  the 
settling  boxes  E,  where  it  is  treated 
with  chemicals  in  order  to  separate 


342 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


the  gluten.  From  here  the  starch- 
milk  is  conveyed  to  the  inclined 
starch  tables  G,  and  is  then  carried 
into  a  channel  at  the  head  of  the 
series  of  tables  where  it  is  comminuted 
by  a  revolving  knife,  water  being 
admitted  at  the  same  time.  The  paste 
is  conveyed  to  the  mixing  reservoir 
K  provided  with  a  stirring  apparatus, 
and  finally  into  the  settling  box  L, 
where  it  is  washed.  To  produce 
glucose  the  starch  is  brought  into  the 
open  converter  L,  drawn  off  into  the 
holder  M,  and  here  neutralized.  The 
fluid  is  then  conducted  through  the 
settling  box  Ml  and  the  bag-filter  M* 
into  the  reservoir  M4,  and  bleached. 
From  M4  the  fluid  passes  through  the 
bag-filter  N1  to  N1  and  O,  is  filtered 
through  animal  charcoal,  and  then 
pumped  into  the  vacuum  pan  Q, 
where  it  is  concentrated.  After  pass- 
ing through  the  filtering  presa  R,  it  is 
ready  to  be  drawn  into  barrels. 

For  preparing  hard  grape  sugar 
(dextrose),  the  solution  of  sugar  is  con- 
veyed from  the  closed  converter  L3 
into  the  reservoir  T,  then  to  T1  where 
it  is  neutralized  and  blenched,  and 


phate  of  barium  may  be  used,  or  any 
other  barium  salt  forming  an  insoluble 
combination. 

Preparation  of  Pure  Levulose.  Pre- 
pare a  10  per  cent,  solution  of  cane 
sugar,  add  for  every  100  parts  of  sugar 
2  parts  of  hydrochloric  acid,  and  heat 
to  140°  F.  At  this  temperature  the 
fluid  remains  entirely  colorless.  The 
conversion  into  grape  and  fruit  sugars 
takes  place  very  slowly  and  regularly, 

11  pounds  of  sugar  requiring  about  17 
hours.     After   complete   conversion   a 

12  per  cent,  solution  of  inverted  sugar 
is  obtained.     Allow  the  fluid  to  cool 
slowly  to  about  23°  F.     Then  add  to 
every   10  parts   of   sugar  6   parts  of 
slaked    lime    pulverized    and    passed 
through    a   hair    sieve,    mix    and   stir 
thoroughly.     The  fluid   congeals  to   a 
paste,  the  temperature  rising  about  2 
degrees.     Then  press  out  the  paste  in 
order  to  separate  the  liquid  lime-com- 
pound of  grape  sugar  from  the  solid 
lime-compound  of   fruit    sugar.      Re- 
place the  latter  in  water  and  press  it 
out  again,  repeating  the  operation   as 
long  as  the  wash-water  turns  to  the 
right.       The    remaining    mixture    of 


finally  into  the  settling  box  M1.  From  j  lime-compound  of  levulose  and  excess 
here  it  is  passed  through  the  bag-filter  I  of  lime  is  suspended  in  water  and 
M2  into  the  reservoir  M3,  filtered,  then  saturated  with  oxalic  acid  until  the 
pumped  into  M4,  where  it  is  bleached  |  lime-compound  is  accurately  neutral- 


and  filtered  through  N  into  N1.  From 
the  latter  it  is  conveyed  to  O,  and  is 
either  filtered  through  the  carbon 
filter  P  or  brought  directly  into  the 
vacuum  pan  Q.  The  concentrated 
fluid  is  filtered  through  filter-presses 


5 zed.  The  scarcely  yellowish  colored 
fluid  is  then  filtered  off  from  the 
oxalate  of  lime  into  a  large  beaker 
glass  and  placed  in  a  cold  mixture  of 
snow  and  hydrochloric  acid.  Stir 
thoroughly  until  about  ^  of  the  water 


into  U,  and  passes  from  here  into  the  is  frozen.  Then  throw  the  whole 
cooling  apparatus.  S  V  and  V1  are  the  upon  a  linen  filter,  and,  as  soon  as  the 
steam  apparatus  and  furnace  for  re-  greater  part  of  the  fluid  is  drained  off, 


vivifying  the  animal  charcoal.  In  the 
cooling  apparatus  S  the  hot  cream-like 
sugar  is  kept  in  constant  motion  by  a 
screw,  and  cooled  off  by  serpentine 
pipes.  Solidification  is  accelerated  by 
throwing  in  finished  sugar. 

To  Remove  Gypsum  from  Solutions 
of  Glucose  produced  with  the  aid  of 
Sulphuric  Acid.  The  solution  of  glu- 
cose formed  by  boiling  the  starch  with 
dilute  sulphuric  acid  is,  after  being 
neutralized  with  chalk,  filtered,  com- 
pounded with  oxalate  of  barium  and 
boiled  down.  The  solution,  after  fil- 
tering, is  entirely  free  from  gypsum. 
In  place  of  oxalate  of  barium,  phos- 


press  out  the  residue.  Replace  the 
combined  filtrates  in  the  cold  mixture 
and  repeat  the  whole  process  until  a 
very  concentrated  solution  of  levulose 
is  obtained,  and  then  dry  the  levulose 
syrup  in  a  vacuum.  Levulose  thus 
obtained  is  pure  and  white. 

A  New  Source  for  Supplying  Man- 
nite  is,  according  to  W.  Tlidrner,  the 
Afjaricus  integer,  a  common  and  easily 
recognized  fungus.  Boil  out  the  com- 
minuted fungus  with  fresh  quantities 
of  alcohol  until  the  extracts,  on  cooling, 
separate  no  more  crystals.  The  crys- 
talline mass,  consisting  of  separated 
mannite,  is  redissolved  in  alcohol  and 


SUGARS,  GLUCOSE,  ETi 


343 


344 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


boiled  with  animal  charcoal.  From 
the  filtered  fluid  the  mannite  crystal- 
lizes in  snow-white  needles.  One  hun- 
dred parts  of  Agaricus  integer  yield 
from  19  to  20  parts  of  mannite. 

Purification  of  Sugar  Beet  Juice  by 
means  of  Silica  Hydrate.  Heat  the 
juice  nearly  to  the  boiling  point  and 
compound  it  with  £  to  2  parts  of  silica 
hydrate  of  10°  B.  to  every  100  parts  of 
juice,  the  quantity  depending  on  the 
organic  substances  and  organic  alka- 
line combinations  in  the  juice.  In 
about  5  minutes  add  to  the  mixture 
0.004  per  cent,  of  lime  in  the  form  of 
milk  of  lime  (or  air-slaked)  and  then  let 
it  come  to  a  boil.  Remove  the  result- 
ing precipitate  by  pressing  and  treat  the 
filtrate  like  other  juice,  i.  e.,  filter  and 
boil  down. 

To  Prepare  Strontia  Sugar  from 
Treacle  and  Syrup.  By  using  3  mole- 
cules of  strontia  to  1  molecule  of  sugar 
strontium  saccharate  is  precipitated  at 
the  boiling  point  under  ordinary  or 
higher  pressure.  The  precipitate  is 
separated  from  the  fluid  in  a  hot  con- 
dition and  washed  with  hot  water.  The 
strontium  saccharate  thus  obtained  is 
decomposed  by  water  at  a  lower  tem- 
perature into  basic  saccharate  and  free 
strontium  hydrate.  The  strontium  sac- 
charate is  used  for  separating  beet 
juice  and  other  sacchariferous  juices. 


TEXTILE  FABRICS  AND  TISSUES. 

Coating  Textile  Fabrics  urith  Metallic 
Substances.  Fine  comminuted  metallic 
powder  is  mixed  with  an  adhesive  sub- 
stance, as  caoutchouc,  etc.,  and  the 
mixture  applied  either  by  hand  or 
machine  to  the  textile  fabric,  which  is 
then  dried  and  glazed.  After  glazing 
a  pattern  may  be  either  pressed  or 
printed  upon  the  fabric. 

Effect  of  Heat  on  Textile  Fabrics. 
Recent  experiments  have  shown  that 
white  wool,  cotton,  and  silk  may  be 
heated  to  248°  F.  for  3  hours  without 
apparent  injury,  except  that  wool  will 
show  a  slight  change  in  color,  especially 
when  new.  The  same  may  be  said  of 
dyed  wools,  printed  cottons,  and  most 
dyed  silks ;  but  some  white  silks  turn 
brown  by  this  heat,  and  some  pink 
silks  are  faded  by  it.  The  same  tem- 


perature will,  if  continued  for  a  longer 
period,  slightly  change  the  color  of 
white  wool,  cotton,  silk,  and  un- 
bleached linen,  but  will  not  otherwise 
injure  them.  A  heat  of  293°  F.,  con- 
tinued for  about  3  hours,  slightly  singes 
white  wool,  and  less  so  unbleached  and 
white  cotton,  white  silk,  and  linen, 
both  unbleached  and  white,  but  does 
not  materially  injure  their  appearance. 
The  same  heat  continued  for  about  5 
hours  singes  and  injures  the  appear- 
ance of  white  wool  and  cotton,  un- 
bleached linen,  white  silk,  and  some 
colored  fabrics  of  wool,  or  mixed  wool 
and  cotton,  or  mixed  wool  and  silk.  It 
is  noteworthy  that  the  singeing  of  any 
fabric  depends  not  alone  upon  the  heat 
used,  but  also  on  the  time  during  which 
it  is  exposed.  In  these  experiments 
the  heat  was  obtained  by  burning  gas 
with  smokeless  flames,  and  conducting 
the  products  of  combustion,  mixed  with 
the  heated  air,  by  means  of  a  short 
horizontal  flue  into  a  cubical  chamber 
through  an  aperture  in  its  floor,  and 
out  of  it  by  a  smaller  opening  in  its 
roof.  Fixed  thermometers  showed  the 
temperature  of  the  entering  and  out- 
going currents,  which  represent  the 
maximum  and  minimum  temperatures 
of  the  chambers. 

Feather-plush.  A  process  has  re- 
cently been  patented  in  Germany 
whereby  finely  comminuted  down  is 
worked  with  textile  materials  into  a 
fur-like  fabric,  in  lengths  of  about  50 
yards  by  2  yards  in  width.  The  down 
may  also  be  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  light  bed-covers,  wall-papers,  etc., 
and  for  this  feathers  of  little  or  no  value 
and  formerly  considered  useless  can  be 
utilized.  The  process  is  as  follows: 
The  feathers  are  comminuted  by  a 
machine  representing  a  combination  of 
a  batting  machine,  fan  and  sieves.  The 
resulting  down  is  then  carded  in  a 
carding  engine  together  with  40  to  90 
per  cent,  of  other  material  and  formed 
into  a  close  fleece.  By  mechanical 
friction  and  the  aid  of  steam  the  fleece 
is  joined  together  in  large  pieces  of  a 
kind  of  felt,  which  is  then  converted 
into  a  cloth-like  material  by  the  fulling 
process.  The  resulting  fabric  is  then 
thoroughly  dried  and  steamed  for  some 
time  at  a  very  high  temperature  in  a 
closed  steam-box,  resembling  an  appa- 


TEXTILE  FABRICS  AND  TISSUES. 


345 


ratus  for  shrinking  cloth.  By  this  pro- 
cess an  intimate  union  is  formed  be- 
tween the  down  and  the  other  materials, 
the  fabric  assuming  at  the  same  time  a 
plush-like  appearance,  which  can  be 
very  much  varied  in  the  finishing. 

Down-cloth.  Seventy-nine  to  85 
parts  of  down  are  mixed  with  20  to  30 
parts  of  wool  and  50  to  (30  parts  of  oleic 
acid.  The  mixture  is  then  passed 
through  a  batting  machine,  and  then 
worked  in  succession  in  a  breaking 
card,  finishing  card,  and  carding  ma- 
chine. The  material  is  then  spun  and 
woven.  The  finished  piece  is  freed 
from  oil,  fulled,  raised,  shorn,  and  dyed. 
The  card-clothing  of  the  rollers  of  the 
carding  machine  corresponds  to  the 
material  to  be  worked.  On  the  finish- 
ing card  is  arranged  an  endless  cloth 
upon  which  rests  another  endless  cloth, 
which  receives  the  mixture  from  the 
porcupine,  and,  carrying  it  along,  is 
wound  with  it  around  a  roller.  On  the 
carding  engine  is  also  arranged  an  end- 
less cloth  upon  which  the  fleece  wound 
around  the  roller  of  the  finishing  card 
is  unrolled  and  carried  by  it  to  the 
working  rollers.  There  is  a  further 
contrivance  on  the  carding  engine  by 
which  one  or  more  threads  may  be  in- 
troduced into  the  roving  in  order  to 
make  the  fabric  more  durable.  The 
improvements  in  the  gig  consist  in  an 
arrangement  of  drums  covered  with 
carding  between  which  the  piece  of 
cloth  runs. 

Improvements  in  the  Treatment  of 
Vegetable  Fibres.  The  fibres  after 
having  been  freed  from  foreign  con- 
stituents are  bleached  in  a  bath  of  4  to 
1  per  cent,  of  ethyl  chloride  to  25 
gallons  of  water.  To  give  to  them  a 
silk-like  gloss  they  are  immersed  for 
3  hours  iu  a  bath  of  sodium  carbonate 
or  bicarbonate,  then  exposed  to  the 
fumes  of  burning  sulphur,  and  finally 
thoroughly  rinsed  with  water. 

To  give  greater  flexibility  to  the 
fibres,  they  are,  after  having  been  dried 
over  hurdles,  submitted  to  the  action 
of  glycerine  vapors. 

Improvement  in  the  Preparation  of 
Surfaces  to  be  Printed  on,  Embossed, 
etc.  A  design  or  drawing  on  transpar- 
ent paper  is  placed  upon  a  layer  of 
chrome-gelatine  and  exposed  to  the 
light.  The  surface  of  chrome-gelavane, 


after  the  drawing  has  been  removed, 
is  washed.  A  very  fusible  metal,  the 
Spen.ee  me*al  being  the  best  adapted 
for  the  purpose,  is  then  poured  over  the 
chrome-gelatine  surface.  The  casting 
can  be  directly  used,  or  fac-similes  are 
prepared  with  the  help  of  this  metal- 
plate,  either  by  the  galvanoplastic  or 
some  other  process. 

In  place  of  the  design  a  drawing 
prepared  by  weaving,  knitting,  print- 
ing, etc.,  cao  be  used.  Such  drawing, 
is  then  coated  with  a  thick  coat  of 
coloring  matter  or  plastic  material.  In 
case  the  relief  formed  is  not  deep 
enough,  it  is  improved  by  scattering 
any  powder  or  fibrous  substance  upon 
the  surface  while  it  is  still  in  a  plastic 
state.  It  is  then  filled  up  with  Spence 
metal,  and  the  resulting  plate  used  "for 
printing.  This  process  is  also  available 
for  printing  with  type  and  for  emboss- 
ing. 

New  Method  of  Compressing  the 
Fibres  of  Cotton  Tissues,  and  Giving 
the  Colors  more  Lustre.  This  invention 
is  based  upon  the  fact  that  cotton 
threads  treated  with  cold  caustic-lye 
are  compressed  £  to  J.  By  this  process 
apparently  very  fine  tissues  can  be  pre- 
pared from  coarser,  the  colors  appear- 
ing more  intense  and  brilliant.  The 
fabric  gains  in  strength.  A  thread  which 
would  formerly  break  when  loaded 
with  14  ounces  will,  after  treatment, 
require  a  weight  of  21i  ounces. 

New  Yarn,  called  Pearl  Yarn,  con- 
sists of  threads  upon  which  at  any 
desired  intervals  are  fastened  drops  or 
pearls  of  a  pasty  substance,  which,  on 
congealing,  assume  the  appearance  of 
glass  or  crystals.  The  substance  is 
prepared  from  wax,  rosin,  lacquer,  gum, 
and  enamel.  The  pearl  yarn  is  prepared 
either  by  hand  or  a  trough  is  used  for 
the  reception  of  the  paste.  Tubes  are 
arranged  in  the  trough,  each  of  which 
is  provided  with  an  aperture  below, 
from  which  a  drop  of  the  pearl  sub- 
stance exudes  and  is  received  by  a 
thread  held  under  the  tube. 

Oil-cloth.  The  customary  process 
of  stretching  the  tissue  in  a  frame  and 
coating  it  with  a  vegetable  gluten 
makes  the  oil-cloth  hard  and  brittle. 
It  is  claimed  that  animal  gelatine,  sub- 
stituted for  the  vegetable  gluten,  reme- 
dies this  defect.  Boiling  the  pit  of  the 


346 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


horns  of  ruminants  makes  the  best 
gelatine  for  this  purpose,  the  ordinary 
glue  and  gelatine  not  giving  equally 
good  results.  To  about  32  parts  of 
melted  gelatine  add  i  part  of  a  saponify- 
ing material  (borax  being  the  best)  and 
16  parts  of  linseed-oil  varnish,  aiid  allow 
the  compound  to  congeal.  Then  bring 
it  into  a  mill  and  mix  it  with  30  parts 
of  mineral  color  soaked  in  water,  such 
as  kaolin,  chalk,  etc.  Reduce  the 
compound  with  naphtha,  and  bring  it 
into  the  priming  machine,  where  it  may 
be  applied  to  the  tissue  once  or  oftener. 
When  the  ground  is  sufficiently  dry, 
the  following  composition  is  applied: 
75  parts  of  kaolin  are  formed  into  a 
thick  paste  with  water  mixed  in  a  mill 
with  33  parts  of  linseed-oil  varnish  and 
reduced  with  naphtha.  Kaolin  mixed 
with  linseed-oil  varnish  has  been  pre- 
viously used  for  the  same  purpose,  but 
the  kaolin  having  been  mixed  in  a  dry 
state  with  the  varnish,  the  oil-cloth  re- 
mained in  consequence  hard  and  brittle. 
Soaking  the  kaolin  before  mixing  it 
with  the  varnish  remedies  this  evil. 
The  composition  is  also  applied  to  the 
cloth  by  means  of  the  priming  machine, 
adding  at  the  same  time  the  ground 
color  the  oil-cloth  is  to  have,  and  it 
finally  receives  the  desired  pattern  in 
the  ordinary  way. 

Apparatus  and  Process  for  Scouring 
and  Removing  the  Oil  from  fleece,  Woof, 
and  Silk,  and  Woollen  Fabrics  of  every 
Description.  The  process  is  based  upon 
the  use  of  carbonic  acid  gas  or  carbon- 
ated water  as  a  washing  agent,  with  or 
without  other  ingredients  generally 
used  for  washing,  cleansing,  and  bleach- 
ing. The  apparatus  used  consists  of  a 
revolving  wash-barrel  containing  the 


Fig.  41. 

fabrics  to  be  manipulated.  The  car- 
bonic acid  gas  or  carbonated  water 
enters  through  the  tube  a  (Fig.  41),  and 


steam  from  the  opposite  side  through 
the  tube  b.  Both  steam  and  carbonic 
acid  are  converted  into  a  fine  spray  by 
means  of  a  perforated  tube  inside  the 
barrel,  c  is  the  carbonic  acid  holder, 
d  is  a  wagon  for  carrying  away  the 
fabrics,  e  the  cover  of  the  aperture 
through  which  the  barrel  is  filled  and 
emptied, /the  safety-valve,  g  the  escape- 
pipe  for  the  gases. 

Process  for  Animalizing  Vegetable 
Fibres  with  Nitro-glucose  (Nitro-sac- 
charose).  Nitro-glucose  or  saccharose 
is  prepared  by  treating  sugar  with  ni- 
tric or  sulphuric  acid  and  washing  and 
kneading.  The  product  is  dissolved  in 
acetic  acid  or  methyl-alcohol,  and  the 
vegetable  fibres  are  saturated  with  the 
solution.  The  nitro-glucose  may  also 
be  produced  upon  the  tissue  by  immers- 
ing it  in  a  solution  of  sugar  and  submit- 
ting it  to  the  action  of  nitric  acid  vapors 
or  drawing  it  through  a  solution  of  the 
acid.  Fibres  prepared  in  this  manner 
act  in  dyeing  like  animal  substances. 

Patent  Process  to  give  to  Colored 
Fabrics  a  Metallic  Lustre.  For  5  parts 
of  black  tissues  use  a  bath  consisting 
of:  Water  500  parts,  sulphate  of  copper 
J  part,  and  tartaric  acid  £  part.  The 
tissues  are  manipulated  in  this  at  a 
moderate  heat  for  half  an  hour,  then 
rinsed,  placed  in  a  decoction  of  5  parts 
of  logwood  and  some  ebony  shavings 
with  the  corresponding  quantity  of 
water,  again  rinsed  and  dried.  They 
are  then  placed  in  a  mixture  of  ^  part 
of  sulphate  of  copper,  H  parts  of  aqua 
ammonia,  and  500  parts  of  water  at  a 
temperature  of  167°  to  190°  F.,  for  12 
to  15  minutes.  They  are  then  rinsed, 
and  finally  brought  into  solution  of  so- 
dium hyposulphite  of  25°  B.,  again 
rinsed  and  dried. 

Preparation  of  Fibres  that'  can  be 
Spun  from  Nettles^,  Hemp,  Jute,  etc. 
To  facilitate  the  action  of  the  chemicals 
used  in  the  process  the  stems,  which  are 
generally  very  hard  and  woody,  must 
be  broken.  This  is  best  accomplished 
by  passing  the  stems  between  fluted 
rollers  and  exposing  them  in  a  suitable 
vessel  for  a  few  hours  to  the  action  of 
steam,  which  separates  the  woody  parts 
from  the  fibres,  removes  the  vegetable 
gum  mucus,  etc.,  by  loosening  the  sub- 
stances enclosing  the  fibres.  To  make 
the  action  of  the  steam  more  effective, 


TEXTILE  FABRICS  AND  TISSUES. 


347 


it  may  be  mixed  with  a  small  propor- 
tion of  hydrochloric  acid  vapors.  The 
stems  are  then  placed  for  a  few  days  ia 
a  lye  prepared  by  slaking  10  parts  of 
lime  in  1  of  water.  The  .solution  is 
used  either  cold  or  hot,  according  to 
the  nature  of  the  stems.  Prepare  a  i 
bath  of  50  parts  of  caustic  soda  in  10,000 
parts  of  water,  and  in  it  boil  the  pre- 
pared stems  for  4  to  6  hours  at  a  tem- 
perature of  212°  to  248°  F. ;  500  parts 
of  stems  require  about  4000  parts  of 
water.  For  very  hard  or  unripe  stems 
the  above  bath  can  be  strengthened  by 
addition  of  caustic  soda  previously  dis- 
solved in  water  distilled  over  quick- 
lime. The  strength  of  the  bath  varies 
according  to  the  condition  of  the  stems, 
to  be  regulated  only  by  actual  experi- 
ence. In  the  strengthened  bath  the 
stems  may  be  left  6  to  8  hours  at  a  tem- 
perature of  176°  to  248°  F.  To  remove 
the  last  traces  of  vegetable  gum  or 
mucus  the  stems  are  placed  in  a  hot 
bath  composed  of  water  and  ordinary 
soft  soap.  The  fibres,  now  cleansed 
from  all  foreign  substances,  are 
bleached,  various  methods  being  in 
use. 

I.  Place  the  fibres  for  1  to  3  hours  in 
a  bath  containing  5  parts  of  chloride 
of  lime  to   1000  'parts  of  water.     The 
strength  of  the  bath  and  duration  of 
immersion  must  be  governed   by  the 
conditions.     If  necessary  a   bath  con- 
taining an  aqueous  solution  of  i  to  1 
per    cent,   of  ethyl   chloride   (spiritus 
setheris  chlorati)  is  used,  which,  it  is 
claimed,  bleaches  the  fibres  without  in- 
juring them  in  the  least. 

II.  Immerse  the  fibres  for  15  to  30 
minutes  in  a  bath  containing  10  parts 
of  chloride  of  lime  to   1000  parts  of 
water.     Then  immerse  them  in  another 
bath  composed  of  10  parts  of  magnesia 
in  1000  parts  of  water.      Chloride  of 
magnesium    and     free    chlorine    are 
formed,     which     last     bleaches     the 
fibre     without     injuring     it.       Drain 
the  fibres,  after  being  bleached,   and 
bring    them    into    a   bath    containing 
5  parts  of  carbonate  of  potassium  or 
soda  to  1000  parts  of  water.     Carbonic 
acid  having  a  strong  affinity  for  mag- 
nesia forms   carbonate  of  magnesium, 
and  the  chlorine  set  free  forms  a  fresh 
equivalent  of  bleaching  salt,  which  fin- 
ishes the  bleaching  of  the  fibres,  this 


being  the  principal  object  of  the  opera- 
tion. The  fibres  are  then  washed  either 
in  cold  or  warm  water  to  remove  the 
adhering  chlorine.  As  this  has  to  be 
done  verv  carefully  several  baths  are 
used,  either  separately  or  combined. 
The  fibres  are  placed,  for  instance,  5  to 
10  minutes  in  a  hot  sulphuric  acid  batli 
of  140°  to  170°  F.,  in  the  proportion  of 
5  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  to  1000  parts 
of  water.  Or  the  moist  fibres,  after 
they  have  been  washed,  are  placed  for 

1  to  2  hours  in  a  room  and  exposed  to 
sulphuric  fumes  generated  by  the  burn- 
ing of  sulphur.     The  fibres  when  thor- 
oughly washed    have   a   silky    lustre 
which  can  be  augmented  by  a  bath  of  a 
strong  solution  of  sodium  carbonate  or 
bicarbonate.      By  again  exposing  the 
fibres  to  sulphurous  fumes  it  is  claimed 
that  the  carbonic  acid  which  is  devel- 
oped splits  the  fibres,  making  them  very 
fine  and  extremely  soft.     They  are  then 
again   rinsed   in  water.      To  give  the 
fibres  the  necessary  degree  of  softness 
they  are  placed  for  2  hears  in  a  hot 
bath  having  a  temperature  of  170°  to 
248°  F.,  and  composed  as  follows :  Two 
parts  of  olive  or  palm  oil  soap  are  dis- 
solved in  100  parts  of  water,  and  the 
solution  compounded   with  i   part  of 
soda.     The  fibres  when   dry  are  once 
more  passed  through  fluted  rollers  or  a 
breaker.     They  are  finally  spread  Dut 
upon   hurdles,  and  in  a  closed    room 
exposed  to  the  action  of  weak  glycerine 
vapors,    whereby  they  obtain  greater 
flexibility  without  injury  to  their  silky 
lustre.     They  are  now  ready  for  spin- 
ning.    The  fibre  in  a  finished  state  is 
soluble  in  strong  acids,  chloride  of  zinc, 
and  soda. 

Shoddy.  How  it  is  Made.  Shoddy 
consists  of  old  rags  torn  up  for  use  in 
adulterating  wool.  Both  woollen  and 
cotton  rags  are  used,  but  the  former 
more  so  than  the  latter.  The  rags  are 
first  sorted  and  then  go  into  the  picker- 
room,  entering  first  a  machine  for  beat- 
ing out  dust  and  called  "  the  willow." 
It  consists  of  a  cylinder  provided  with 
long  teeth  and  boxed  in.  A  fan  is  at- 
tached, which  blows  the  dust  into  a 
long  flue.  The  cylinder  revolves  at 
the  rate  of  about  600  times  per  minute. 
The  rags  next  go  to  the  picker.  This 
has  a  cylinder  with  teeth  about 

2  inches   long,   very   sharp    and   set 


348 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT   BOOK. 


close ;  it  revolves  about  1200  times  ] 
per  minute.  The  rags  are  fed  by 
slow-moving  rollers,  which  hold  them 
so  that  the  teeth  of  the  picker-cylinder 
tear  them  in  threads,  and  these  threads 
are  passed  on  to  a  machine  called  the 
"finisher"  or  "  lumper"  This  is  some-  , 
thing  like  the  picker,  but  not  so  power-  j 
ful.  It  throws  out  the  unworkable 
stock  or  lumps  and  reduces  the  good 
stock  to  finer  texture.  After  leaving  ' 
the  lumper  the  stock  is  ready  for  mix- 
ing ;  that  is,  different  weights  of 
shoddy,  cotton,  and  good  wool  are 
placed  in  piles,  according  to  the  grade 
of  cloth  to  be  made.  The  materials  ore 
then  mixed  in  layers,  often  in  such 
quantities  as  to  weigh  several  tons. 
This  mixture  is  then  passed  through 
the  willow,  to  more  completely  mingle 
it,  and  then  tli rough  the  lumper.  It 
then  leaves  the  picker- room  and  goes 
to  the  card-room.  The  "  stock,"  as  it  is 
now  called,  is  placed  in  machinery 
called  "  breakers,"  which  make  it  uni- 
form in  quality,  and  it  then  goes  to  the 
"condenser,"  by  which  it  is  formed 
into  thin  folds,  from  f  inch  to  2  inches 
in  width,  according  to  the  quality  of 
the  stock.  It  then  goes  to  a  system  of 
rollers,  which  roll  these  thin  folds  into 
thread,  which  is  run  on  to  large  spools 
and  is  ready  for  spinning.  The  carding 
machines  are  of  different  character,  ac- 
cording to  the  work  demanded.  The 
spinning  frame  is  generally  called  a 
tfmule,"  and  has  on  it  from  600  to  700 
spindles,  and  can  work  that  many 
threads  at  once.  The  art  of  hiding  the 
nature  of  shoddy  is  seen  in  great  per- 
fection in  the  weaving.  By  an  arrange- 
ment of  the  loom  machinery  the  inferior 
material  is  thrown  to  the  back  of  the 
cloth  and  the  better  fibres  to  the  front. 
By  more  complicated  machinery  certain 
arrangements  of  fibres  can  be  made  on 
the  surface  of  the  cloth,  producing  va- 
rious forms  of  diagonal  twills.  To  test 
the  quality  of  the  cloth  take  a  thread 
of  the  filling  and  pull  it  apart.  If  it 
'breaks  off  short,  without  any  long  fibres 
holding  it  together,  it  is  shoddy.  If, 
however,  it  draws  out  without  break- 
ing at  once,  and  shows  long  fibres,  then 
the  body  or  filling  contains  pure  wool, 
and  the  more  of  these  long  fibres  are 
ibund  the  better  the  cloth.  We  would 
Anally  remark  that  nowadays  it  is  very 


good  cloth  which  has  50  per  cent  of 
good  wool  in  it. 

&i//c  Gauze.  The  warp  is  dressed 
with  a  solution  of  gelatine  and  runs 
only  through  two  shafts.  The  wool'  ia 
reeled  dry,  and  in  the  shuttle  is  placed 
a  small  moistened  sponge,  through 
which  the  cocoon-thread  runs  during 
weaving.  The  raw  fabric  is  immersed 
in  a  hot  solution  of  gelatine,  then  half- 
dried,  vigorously  beaten  between  the 
hands,  and  then  stretched  in  a  frame. 

Tinning  of  Tissues.  Woollen  or  cot- 
ton fabrics  can  be  provided  with  a  close 
and  flexible  coating  of  tin  having  a 
silvery  lustre.  The  process  is  as  fol- 
lows: Mix  commercial  zinc  dust  with 
an  albuminous  solution  into  a  thin 
paste,  and  brush  or  roll  the  paste  on 
the  fabric.  When  dry  the  coating  is 
fixed  by  coagulating  the  albumen  by 
means  of  hot  steam,  and  the  fabric  is 
then  placed  in  a  solution  of  chloride  of 
tin.  The  tin  precipitates  itself  in  a 
finely-divided  state  upon  the  zinc.  The 
fabric  is  then  washed  with  water,  and, 
when  dry,  is  passed  on  to  the  glazing 
machine,  when  the  tin  will  appear  as  a 
lustrous  coating  upon  the  fabrics. 
Beautiful  effects  can  be  produced  by 
printing  the  fabrics,  making  them 
available  for  decorative  purposes. 
Tinned  linen,  etc.,  can  in  many  cases 
be  substituted  for  tin-foil  as  an  elegant 
and  water-proof  packing. 

To  Produce  a  Metallic  Lustre  upon 
fabrics  saturate  them  with  a  metallic 
solution;  for  instance,  acetate  of  lead, 
and  bring  them  before  they  are  entirely 
dry  into  a  vessel,  on  the  bottom  of 
which  is  placed  some  metallic  sulphide 
slowly  decomposable  by  air,  so  that  the 
sulphide  of  hydrogen  which  is  formed 
acts  upon  the  metallic  salt. 

Utilization  of  Short  Hair.  To  make 
short,  rough  hair  suitable  like  wool  for 
spinning,  weaving,  or  felting,  treat 
it  with  a  thin  alkaline  solution  and 
then  with  diluted  acid. 

Utilization  and  Working  of  Jute. 
The  best  qualities  of  jute  are  of  a  pale 
yellow  or  silver-gray  color,  with  a  very 
high  silky  gloss,  and  feel  agreeably  soft 
and  smooth  to  the  touch.  Jute  is  not 
as  strong  as  hemp  or  flax,  but  suffi- 
ciently so  for  the  production  of  durable 
coarse  fabrics.  Although  the  separate 
threads  are  comparatively  fine  they  can 


TOBACCO,   SNUFF,  ETC. 


only  be  used  for  coarse  yarns.  The 
root  ends,  or  jute-butts  as  they  are 
called  in  commerce,  are  generally 
darker  in  color  and  harder  and  more 
woody  than  the  middle  and  upper  por- 
tions. The  fibres  are  free  from  steins, 
and  only  inferior  qualities  exhibit 
dark  scarf-skin  cells  adhering  quite 
tightly.  The  fibres  are  generally  b'i  to 
9  feet*  long,  although  there  are  some 
varieties  14  feet  long.  The  medium 
qualities  are  of  a  dark  brown  color, 
while  the  ordinary  qualities  are  yellow 
or  reddish-brown,  and  both  are  harder 
and  more  woody  than  the  best  quality, 
and  their  root  ends  very  hard  and 
coarse.  The  jute-fibre  is  very  hygro- 
scopic, and  in  an  ordinary  state  contains 
about  11  per  cent,  of  water,  and,  if 
stored  in  a  damp  room,  may  absorb  as 
much  as  30  per  cent,  and  more.  The 
better  qualities  of  raw  jute  are  much 
used  for  enveloping  submarine  tele- 
graph cables  and  as  bandages  for  sur- 
gical purposes,  for  which  they  are  es- 
pecially prepared.  If  they  are  to  be 
employed  for  bandages  they  are  satu- 
rated either  in  the  dry  state  with  sali- 
cylic acid  (salicyl-jute)  or  in  a  half- 
moist  condition  with  carbolic  acid 
(carbol-jute).  Jute  yarns  are  prepared 
according  to  two  processes.  By  the 
first  the  jute  is  first  cut  up  in  stricks 
about  2£  feet  long,  which  are  then 
heckled  by  machines,  and  finally 
worked  like  flax  into  finished  yarn, 
but  always  upon  the  dry  frame.  This 
method  is  employed  in  England, 
France,  and  Belgium  for  a  few  num- 
bers of  yarns  only,  namely,  for  Nos.  16, 
20,  and  22,  and  furnishes  also  the  article 
which  comes  into  commerce  under  the 
name  of  "  heckled  yarn  "  or  "jute  line 
yarn." 

The  second  process  for  all  numbers 
from  No.  14  down  is  almost  generally 
used  in  Germany  and  exclusively  in 
Austria.  By  this  process  the  jute-stricks 
are  torn  to  short  fibres  by  special  card- 
ing machines  very  strongly  built,  and 
these  short  fibres  are  joined  together  in 
an  endless  band,  which  is  then  stretched 
iu  the  usual  way  in  a  drawing-frame, 
and  double-milled.  It  is  then  con- 
verted into  roving  upon  the  fly-frame, 
and  finally  into  finished  yarn  upon  the 
dry  frame  But  the  jute,  before  it  is 
actually  worked  up,  undergoes  several 


other  processes  in  order  to  make  it 
softer  and  more  flexible.  These  con- 
sist in  moistening  the  fibres  with  train 
oil  and  water,  and  then  passing  them 
repeatedly  through  between  fluted  roll- 
ers. The  yarns  and  the  threads  pre- 
pared from  them  are  either  worked  into 
actual  jute-fabrics,  which  are  used  as  a 
packing  material,  or  employed  in  the 
production  of  mats,  carpets,  table- 
covers,  and  curtains,  which,  by  reason 
of  their  naturally  yellow  and  glossy 
color,  are  much  in  demand  for  decora- 
tive purposes.  The  yarns,  either  raw, 
bleached,  or  colored,  are  used  as  filling 
either  by  themselves  or  mixed  with 
cotton  warp.  Jute  yarns,  mixed  with 
cotton,  wool,  and  flax,  are  also  used  in 
the  manufacture  of  drills,  bed-ticking, 
furniture  reps,  lamp-wicks,  canvas  of 
all  kinds,  and  many  small  articles. 

Utilization  of  Hop-stalks.  In  Sweden 
a  strong  cloth  is  manufactured  from 
hop-stalks.  The  stalks  are  gathered 
in  autumn  and  soaked  in  water  during 
the  whole  winter.  The  material  is 
then  dried  in  an  oven  and  woven  as  flax. 

A  New  Yarn  is  produced  in  France 
in  the  following  manner  :  Upon  a  mule 
is  placed  another  row  of  rollers  through 
which  at  different  speeds  is  passed  a 
colored  or  plain  thread,  but  twisted  in 
the  reverse  way  of  the  yarn  to  be  oper- 
ated upon.  Thus,  when  the  spindles 
revolve,  the  two  threads  are  twisted, 
but  the  additional  yarn  is  untwisted. 
This  double  yarn  is  again  twisted  with 
the  same  or  other  yarn,  but  running  it 
again  in  the  opposite  direction,  which 
untwists  the  first  thread  and  produces  a 
very  singular  effect,  and  one  which  in 
the  loom  will,  no  doubt,  produce  a  nov- 
elty. 


TOBACCO.  SMOKING  TOBACCO,  SNUFF, 
STERNUTATIVE  POWDERS,  ETC. 

SMOKING  TOBACCOS.  Brazilian 
Tobacco  is  brought  into  commerce 
either  in  rolls  or  cut  and  in  three  qual- 
ities. 

I.  Known  as  "Legitimo"  is  prepared 
by  mixing  equal  parts  of  best  unribbed 
Brazilian  leaf  and  Havana  leaf. 

II.  Havana  leaf  alone   is  used  for 
this  and  treated  in  the  customary  man- 
ner, as  follows :  Extract  pounded  cassia 


350 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


bark  100  parts  and  sugar  300  parts  in 
2250  parts  of  soft  water;  then  press  out 
tiie  liquor  and  add  cinnamon  water  500 
parts,  saltpetre  100  parts,  wine  vinegar 
450  parts,  and  common  salt  125  parrs. 

III.  Ordinary  American  leaf  of  good 
dark  brown  color  is  used  for  this.  For 
500  parts  or'  such  leaf  the  following 
mixture  is  required :  Pulverize  dried 
plums  20  parts,  tamarinds  15  parts, 
cassia  bark  5  parts,  figs  10  parts,  and 
juniper  berries  30  parts.  Macerate  the 
powder  in  225  parts  of  soft  water  for  24 
hours,  and  add  to  the  resulting  liquor : 

i'uice  of  Spanish  licorice  30  parts,  mo- 
asses  20  parts,  honey  and  saltpetre 
each  10  parts. 

Chinese  or  Star  Tobacco,  Yellow 
Virginia  leaf  is  used  and  treated  as  fol- 
lows :  Comminute  orris  root  10  parts, 
large  raisins  5  parts,  angelica  root  12* 
parts,  fresh  walnut  leaves  15  parts,  cal- 
amus root  and  elder  blossoms  each  7i 
parts;  pour  187i  parts  of  water  over 
them,  digest  for  24  hours,  and  then 
,  press  out  the  fluid.  Now  mix  in  a 
glass  matrass :  Benzoine  powder  1  part, 
pulverized  storax  I  part,  cinnamon 
blossoms  I  part,  rosewood  oil  £  part, 
and  spirit  of  wine  of  70  per  cent.  15 
parts.  Close  the  matrass  with  a  piece 
of  wet  bladder  perforated  with  a  needle. 
Digest  the  whole  in  a  sand-bath  for  24 
hours,  then  pour  off  the  .liquor  and 
press  out  the  residue.  Mix  the  two 
fluids  and  the  product  is  ready  for  use. 

Canaster.  To  convert  500  parts  of 
Virginia  leaf  into  canaster  proceed  as 
follows :  Pulverize  20  parts  of  cascarilla 
bark,  U  parts  of  nutmeg,  5  parts  each 
of  orris  root  and  lavender  blossoms,  and 
sift  them  into  a  tin  tank,  and  pour  over 
them  185  parts  of  a  solution  of  1 J  parts 
each  of  purified  potash  and  fresh 
burned  lime  in  soft  water.  Cover  the 
veosel  and  let  it  stand  24  hours  in  a 
warm  place,  so  that  the  mixture  is 
heated  nearly  to  the  boiling  point  with- 
out actually  boiling.  The  liquor  when 
cold  is  strained  through  linen  and  the 
residue  pressed  out.  Then  dissolve  in 
the  fluid  thus  obtained :  Purified  salt- 
petre and  common  salt  each  10  parts, 
and  white  sugar  12  parts.  Moisten  the 
leaves  with  the  mixture,  and  pile  them 
together  and  turn  them  frequently,  so 
that  they  become  uniformly  permeated 
with  the  liquor,  which  will  be  the  case 


in  6  to  8  days.  While  still  moist  the 
leaves  are  cut,  and  when  dry  packed  in 
tin-foil  or  paper. 

Half  Canaster.  I.  Moisten  50  parts 
of  Virginia  leaf  before  cutting  with 
the  following  mixture:  Dissolve  2  parts 
of  sugar  in  24  of  water,  and  add  A  part 
of  cinnamon  wine,  &  part  of  extract  of 
mastic,  and  2  of  juniper  wine.  The 
tobacco  after  moistening  is  pressed  into 
a  barrel,  remaining  there  24  hours, 
when  it  is  cut  and  packed. 

II.  Moisten  100  parts  of  Virginia  leaf 
with  the  following  mixture,  obtained 
by  boiling  for  3  hours  :  Raisins  3  parts, 
bay-leaves  i,  and  pulverized  cascarilla 
bark  i  in  water  80.  Let  the  decoction 
cool  and  strain  the  liquor  through  a 
linen  cloth,  and  then  add  4  parts  of 
cinnamon  wine  and  1|  of  sugar.  The 
tobacco,  after  moistening,  is  dried  and 
cut. 

Maracaibo  Tobacco  or  Varinas  Can- 
aster. Finest  Quality,  No.  I.  Finest 
Havana  leaf  30  parts,  small  Orinoco 
leaf  and  genuine  Porto  Rico  leaf  each 
25,  light  yellow  and  green  Virginia 
leaf  each  10. 

Quality  No.  II.  Havana  leaf  15 
parts,  Louisiana  leaf  20,  Porto  Rico 
leaf  40,  yellow  Virginia  leaf  15,  and 
green  Virginia  leaf  10. 

Quality  No.  III.  Havana  and  Lou- 
isiana leaf  each  5  parts,  Porto  Rico 
leaf  40,  and  yellow  and  green  Virginia 
leaf  each  25. 

These  mixtures  have  a  very  light 
color.  When  a  darker  color  is  preferred 
the  yellow  and  green  leaf  is  replaced 
by  dark  yellow  or  brown. 

Ostend  Tobacco  consists  of  a  mixture 
of  American  leaf.  There  are  four  va- 
rieties : 

No.  I.  Porto  Rico  leaf  33  parts,  light 
brown  Maryland  leaf  35,  and  brown 
Virginia  leaf  32. 

No.  II.  Louisiana  leaf  45  parts,  light 
yellow  Virginia  leaf  35,  and  light  yel- 
low Pennsylvania  leaf  20. 

No.  III.  Louisiana  leaf  25  parts, 
brown  Virginia  leaf  30,  and  good  brown 
Pennsylvania  leaf  45. 

No.  IV.  Equal  parts  of  long  Orinoco 
leaf,  yellow  Virginia  leaf,  and  yellow 
Maryland  leaf. 

Petit  Canaster  comes  into  commerce 
cut  and  packed  in  tin  boxes.  There 
are  two  varieties  of  pure  American  leaf: 


TOBACCO,  SNUFF,  ETC. 


351 


No.  I.   Long  Orinoco  leaf  10  parts,  !  orange  peel,  coriander  seed,  figs,  and 
Louisiana  leaf  45,  Porto  Rico  leaf  45.      I  sassafras  wood    each    1    pound,   elder 
No.  II.  Louisiana  leaf  5  parts,  long  •  blossoms  12  ounces,  cassia  and  juniper 


Orinoco  leaf  45,  and  brown  Virginia 
leaf  50. 

Petum  Optimum,  according  to  the 
Dutch  Process.  Free  50  parts  of  Vir- 
ginia leaf  from  the  Ctems  and  moisten  it 
with  the  following  mixture :  Dissolves 


berries  each  5f  ounces,  and  galanga  12 
ounces.  Pour  60  pounds  of  water  over 
the  above  ingredients;  allow  them  to 
digest  for  24  hours ;  then  pour  oft'  the 
liquor  and  press  out  the  residue.  Dis- 
solve in  the  liquor  2  pounds  of  pure 
saltpetre,  3  pounds  of  common  or  rock 


parts  of  rock-candy  in  60  01'  soft  water, 

sprinkle  the  solution  over  the  leaf,  salt"  and  4  pounds  of  sugar.  The 
press  the  latter  into  a  barrel,  and  then  product  is  now  ready  for  use.  To  im- 
cut  it.  Dry  the  tobacco  in  the  air,  but  j  prove  the  scent  of  the  tobacco  in  smok- 


not  near  a  fire,  and  then  sprinkle  it 
with  a  mixture  of  juniper  wine  1  part, 
extract  of  mastic  and  cinnamon  wine 
each  2  parts,  so  that  it  is  just  moistened, 
and  then  pack  it  in  tin-foil  or  paper. 

II.  Moisten  100  parts  of  Virginia  leaf 
with  water,  let  it  stand  24  hours,  cut 
and  dry  in  an  airy  room.  In  the  mean- 
while boil  the  following  ingredients 
for  3  hours  in  32  parts  of  soft  water : 
One  part  of  raisins,  3  of  yellow  rock- 
sugar,  and  i  of  bay-leaves,  and,  when 
the  liquor  is  cool,  add  3  parts  cinnamon 
wine.  Sprinkle  the  tobacco  with  the 


mixture 
through. 


and     work    it     thoroughly 
Dry  it  for  some  time  in  an 


ing,  compound  the  above  before  using 
it  with  benzoin  2J  ounces,  mastic  1 
ounce,  myrrh  8|  ounces,  and  spirit  of 
wine  of  60  per  cent,  li  pints. 

Sivicent  Tobacco  (English  Process). 
Remove  the  lower  thick  stems  from  100 
parts  of  Virginia  leaf,  and  moisten  the 
leaf  with  60  parts  of  water,  then  cut  it 
up  fine  and  kiln-dry  it.  In  the  mean- 
while boil  the  following  ingredients  in 
10  parts  of  water :  sugar  3  parts,  raisins 
2,  and  cascarilla  bark  i.  Strain  the 
liquor,  when  about  milk-warm,  through 
a  linen  cloth,  and  when  it  is  entirely 
cold  add  1  part  of  extract  of  mastic 
and  A  of  cinnamon  wine.  Moisten  the 


airy  room,  then  put  it  in  a  barrel,  let  it  ?  tobacco  with  this  mixture,  and  then 


pack  in  paper  or  linen  bags. 

Swricent  Tobacco  (Ordinary).    Macer- 
ate  i  part  of  powdered  cascarilla  bsirk 


stand  in  a  cool  place  for  8  days,  and 
then  pack  in  paper  or  linen  bags. 

Portocarero    Tobacco.      Boil    in    24 

parts  of  water,  2  of  loaf  sugar,  A  of  pul-  i  8  days  in  2  parts  of  spirit  of  wine. 
verized  fennel-seed,  i  of  pulverized  Then  boil  the  whole  in  24  parts  of 
cascarilla  bark,  &  of  powdered  cubebs,  water  together  with  2  parts  of  wine- 
and  a  like  quantity  of  powdered  cloves.  |  vinegar,  i  of  bruised  juniper  berries,  \ 

of  saltpetre,  and  i  of  bruised  angelica 
root,  strain  the  liquor  and  with  it  treat 
100  parts  of  ordinary  country  tobacco. 
Sweet-scented  Tobacco.     This  is  pure 


Moisten  with  the  liquor  60  parts  of 
Maryland  leaf,  allow  it  to  lie  for  8 
hours,  then  cut,  dry,  and  pack  it. 

Porto  Rico  Tobacco,  according  to  the 
Dutch    Process.      Boil    in    a    covered 


boiler  for  3  hours:   Best  wine-vinegar 
12  parts,  water  90,  honey  1,  large  raisins 


3,  and  bay-leaves  i.  Filter  the  liquor 
and,  when  cooled  off  to  milk-warm, 
treat  with  it  100  parts  of  Porto  Rico 
leaf. 

In  Holland  tobacco  treated  with  the 


Virginia  leaf,  but  most  of  the  article 
sold  under  this  name  is  an  imitation 
prepared  from  ordinary  country  to- 
bacco. Treat  100  pounds  of  ordinary 


tobacco  in  the  usual  manner.  Prepare 
the  following  compound  :  Comminute 
4  pounds  of  dried  prunes,  2  pounds 
each  of  orange  peel  and  rosewood,  1 
above  mixture  is  put  up  in  rolls  and  is  .  pound  of  coriander  seed,  and  2  pounds 
in  great  demand.  j  of  raisins  ;  pour  over  them  8|  ounces  of 

Porto  Rico  Tobacco  from  Ordinary  \  purified  potash  and  let  the  whole  stand 
Leaf.  For  100  pounds  of  ordinary  leaf,  j  for  24  hours.  Then  heat  it  nearly  to 
cured  for  1  year,  the  following  mixture  j  the  boiling  point,  draw  off  the  liquor, 
is  used.  When  the  leaves  are  thoroughly  and  press  out  the  residue;  dissolve  in 
permeated  they  are  piled  together  for  8  the  liquor  2  pounds  of  purified  salt- 
days  and  turned  once  every  day.  Com-  petre,  4  pounds  each  of  common  salt 
minute  :  Lemon  peel,  green,  dried  and  honey.  Pour  40  pounds,  of  this 


352 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  .RECEIPT  BOOK. 


mixture  over  the  100  pounds  of  pre- 
pared tobacco. 

Varinas  Tobacco.  I.  Prepare  a  mixt- 
ure by  boiling  in  90  parts  of  soft  water  1 
of  raisins,  1  of  raisin  stems,  2  of  fine 
sugar,  and  i  of  pulverized  fennel  seed. 
Cover  the  boiler  and  let  the  mixture  cool. 
When  cold  sprinkle  60  parts  of  yellow- 
Porto  Rico  leaf  and  40  of  Maryland 
leaf  with  it;  cut  and  kiln-dry  the  to- 
bacco. Then  sprinkle  it  with  3  parts 
of  cinnamon  wine,  and  pack  it  imme- 
diately. 

Improvement  of  Inferior  Qualities  of 
Tobacco.  We  here  give  a  number  of 
mixtures  which  can  be  recommended 
for  converting  inferior  qualities  of  leaf 
tobacco  into  good  smoking  tobacco. 
Each  mixture  is  calculated  for  100 
pounds  of  leaf,  the  latter  being  treated 
with  it  in  the  usual  manner.  It  is  left 
to  the  manufacturer  to  adopt  a  suitable 
name  for  each  brand. 

I.  Comminute    orris    root,    juniper 
berries,  and  coriander  seeds    each   8J 
ounces;   pour  3£  gallons  of  water  over 
them  and  let  the  whole  digest  24  hours. 
Now  dissolve  saltpetre  2  pounds,  sugar 
syrup  4  pounds,  in  water  !£•  gallons, 
and   mix  the  solution  with  the  above 
liquor.    Then  macerate  in  a  glass  mat- 
rass with    the    assistance  of   heat  8J 
ounces  of  liquid  storax  in  2  pounds  of 
strong  spirit  of  wine,  filter  the  extract 
and  compound  it  with  the  above  mixt- 
ure, and  the  mixture  is  ready  for  use. 

II.  Comminute  cascarilla  bark,  an- 
gelica root,   cinnamon   blossoms,    and 
badiane  each  7  ounces,  and  cloves  2£ 
ounces ;   pour  4  gallons  of  water  over 
them,  macerate  the   whole   24   hours, 
then  press  out  the  liquor   and  com- 
pound it  with  a  solution  of  1^  pounds 
of  saltpetre  and  2J  pounds  of  brown 
syrup  in  1£  gallons  of  water,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

III.  Comminute    cassia    bark,   orris 
root,  licorice  root,  angelica  root,  and 
rosewood    each     7    ounces.     Macerate 
with  4  gallons  of  water,  press  out  the 
liquor  and  compound  it  with  a  solution 
of  2  pounds  of  pure  saltpetre  and  3i 
pounds  of  white  sugar  in  1£  gallons  of 
water, 

IV.  Comrninute  juniper  berries  and 
fresh  bay-leaves  each  li  pounds,  fresh 
walnut  leaves  2  pounds,  and  green  or- 

8|  ounces ;  macerate  with  4  gal- 


lons of  water  for  24  hours,  and  press  out 
the  fluid.  Now  pound  in  a  mortar  1  fluid 
ounce  of  oil  of  lemon  and  i  ounce  of 
amber  together  with  3i  pounds  of  white 
sugar;  dissolve  the  mixture  in  li  gal- 
lons of  water,  add  2  pounds  of  pure 
saltpetre,  and  mix  this  solution  with 
the  above  liquor,  and  the  mixture  is 
ready  for  use. 

V.  Comminute  orris  root    and    an- 
gelica   root  each  7  ounces,  vanilla  1 
ounce,    and    cassia    bark    8|    ounces. 
Pour  4  gallons  of  water  over  the  in- 
gredients, let  the  whole  stand  for  24 
hours  and  then  press  out  the  liquor. 
Rub  up  li  pounds  of  white  sugar  with 
a  like  quantity  of  rosewood  oil  and  8| 
fluid  ounces  of  oil  of  bergamot,  add  li 
pounds  of  pure  saltpetre,  dissolve  the 
mixture  in   1£  gallons  of  water,  and 
compound  the  solution  with  the  above 
liquor. 

VI.  Convert  into  a  coarse    powdei? 
cascarilla  bark  7  ounces,  cassia  bark  4 
ounces,  digest  with  4  gallons  of  water 
for  24  hours,  and  press  out  the  liquor. 
Now  rub  up  2  pounds  of  sugar  with  £ 
fluid  ounce  each  of  Peruvian  balsam 
and  oil  of  cloves,  add  1£  pounds  of  pure 
saltpetre,  dissolve  the  mixture  in  H  gal- 
lons of  water,  and  compound  it  with 
the  above  fluid. 

VII.  Pulverize  cassia  bark  and  ba- 
diane each  4  ounces,  nutmeg  2  ounces, 
and  purified   potash  3 i  ounces;  digest 
them  24  hours  in  4  gallons  of  water, 
then  pour  off  the  fluid  and  press  out  the 
residue.    Now  dissolve  Peruvian  bal- 
sam and  olibanum  each  1  fluid  ounce 
in  strong. spirit  of  wine  1  quart,  add 
2  pounds  of  sugar  and  U  pounds  of 
saltpetre,  and  mix  the  solution   with 
the  above  liquor. 

VIII.  Convert  into  a  coarse  powder 
orris   root  8J  ounces,  cardamons  with 
their  shells  23  ounces,  cubebs  2i  ounces, 
cassia  bark  4  ounces,  cloves  1  ounce, 
mastic  2i  ounces ;  digest  them  in  2£  gal- 
lons of  water  and  1  quart  of  alcohol  of 
70  per  cent,  for  24  hours,  and  then  pour 
off  the  liquor.     The  residue  is  extracted 
with   2J    gallons  of   water,   with  the 

I  assistance  of  heat,  and  the  liquor  ob- 
|  tained  from  this  mixed  with  the  first. 
Then  dissolve  in  the  mixture  3i 
j  pounds  of  white  sugar  and  l\  pounds 
I  of  saltpetre,  and  add  to  the  whole  l\ 
,  gallons  more  of  water, 


TOBACCO,  SNUFF,  ETC. 


353 


IX.  Comminute    the    following    in- 
gredients and  macerate  them  with  i 
gallon  of  spirit  of  wine  of  60  per  cent. : 
Sassafras   wood    8|    ounces,   cubebs  4 
ounces,  cloves  21  ounces,  rosewood  and 
fennel  seed  each  7  ounces,  and,  after  24 
hours,  press  out  the  liquor.     The  resi- 
due is  macerated  with  4  gallons  of  hot 
water,  the  fluid  poured  off  and  the  resi- 
due pressed  out.    Dissolve  in  this  last 
liquor  2£  pounds  of  white    sugar,   11 
pounds  of  pure  saltpetre,  and  then  mix 
the  whole   with   the   liquor  obtained 
first. 

X.  Comminute    the    following    in- 
gredients and  macerate  them  24  hours 
in   2V  gallons  of  soft  water:   Orange 
peel  8|  ounces,  coriander  seed  7  ounces, 
and  preserved  rose  leaves  1J  pounds, 
and  then  press  out  the  liquor.  Macerate 
at  the  same  time  If  ounces  of  nutmeg 
and  21  ounces  of  storax  with  i  gallon 
of  spirit  of  wine  of  60  per  cent.,  press 
out  the  liquor  and  dissolve  in  it  1J 
fluid  ounces  of  oil  of  bergamot  and  H 
pounds  of  sugar-syrup.     Now  mix  this 
gradually   with  the  first    liquor    and 
then  dissolve  in  the  whole  li  pounds 
of  saltpetre. 

XI.  Comminute :  Cascarilla  bark  4} 
ounces,  orris  root  7  ounces,  badiane  3V. 
ounces,  cubebs  21  ounces,  and  galanga 
3V.  ounces.     Digest  them  in  4  gallons 
of  water  in  the  sand-bath  for  24  hours, 
and   then  press  out  the  liquor.     In  i 
of  the  liquor  dissolve  11  pounds  of  sugar 
rubbed  up  with  1  fluid  ounce  of  oil  of 
cloves,  and  in  the  other  half  1  pint  of 
licorice  juice  and  11  pounds  of  salt- 
petre, and  then  mix  both  thoroughly 
togetner. 

XII.  Comminute:  Fresh  lemon  peel 
and  fresh  orange  peel  each  8|  ounces, 
cubebs  3V.   ounces,   calamus  root  and 
coriander    seed    each    7    ounces,    and 
figs  1 1  pounds;  macerate  24  hours  in  4 
gallons  of  soft  water,   strain  off   the 
liquor,  and  dissolve  in  it  2  pounds  of 
sugar-syrup    and   li  pounds    of   pure 
saltpetre. 

To  Remove  the  Disagreeable  Smell 
and  Taste  of  Inferior  Qualities  of  To- 
bacco. Treat  100  parts  of  ordinary 
cured  tobacco  with  a  mixture  of  solu- 
tions of  If  to  2  parts  of  potash  in  100 
parts  of  water  and  20  of  soda  water- 
glass  in  500  to  600  parts  of  water.  The 
solution  is  poured  over  the  leaf,  the 
23 


latter  remaining  in  it  2  days,  with  fre- 
quent turning.  The  solution  is  then 
poured  off  and  the  tobacco  dried. 

SNUFF  MANUFACTURE.  The  tobacco 
leaf  is  well  fermented,  then  dried  and 
ground.  The  snuff-mill  resembles  some- 
what a  coffee  or  cocoa-mill  with  a 
continuous  rotation  of  the  cone  or 
crusher.  The  ground  tobacco  travels 
on  an  endless  cloth  to  a  vibrating  sieve 
where  it  is  sifted,  the  fine  particles  are 
carried  forward  into  a  box,  while  the 
coarser  are  returned  to  the  mill  to  be 
reground. 

J3arenburg  Snuff.  Treat  100  pounds 
of  ground  tobacco  with  a  sauce  pre- 
pared from  the  following  ingredients : 
Brown  syrup  2  pounds,  loaf  sugar  6i 
pounds,  oil  of  jasmine  li  fluid  ounces, 
oil  of  bergamot  i  fluid  ounce,  purified 
potash  31  pounds,  common  salt  12i 
pounds  rose  water  8J  pounds,  and  soft 
water  2i  gallons. 

Bergamot  Snuff.  Treat  100  pounds 
of  ground  tobacco  with  the  following 
mixture:  Stems  of  American  tobacco 
cut  up  41  pounds,  rasped  rosewood  41 
pounds,  calamus  root  and  orange  peel 
cut  up  each  2  pounds,  angelica  root 
cut  up  1  pound,  loaf  sugar  41  pounds, 
oil  of  bergamot  2  fluid  ounces,  oils  of 
lemon  and  lavender  each  i  fluid  ounce, 
elder  flower  water  41  pounds,  rose  water 
6i  pounds,  purified  potash  2  pounds, 
pure  common  salt  12i  pounds,  and  soft 
water  2  gallons. 

Dutch  Musino  Snuff.  Convert  100 
pounds  of  fat  Virginia  leaf  to  a  coarse 
powder  and  mix  it  with  the  following 
ingredients  previously  pulverized : 
Cassia  bark,  orange  peel,  angelica  root 
each  1  pound,  galanga  and  Brazil  wood 
each  2  pounds.  Treat  the  above  with 
the  following  mixture:  Dissolve  loaf 
sugar  2  pounds,  saltpetre  1  pound,  sal- 
ammoniac  31  pounds,  common  salt  10 
pounds,  and  purified  potash  31  pounds 
in  elder  flower  water  2i  gallons. 

Espaniol  or  Sevilla  Snuff.  Convert 
100  pounds  of  Orinoco  or  Havana 
leaf  into  a  fine  powder,  and  treat  it 
with  a  mixture  prepared  from  the  fol- 
lowing substances:  Purified  potash  41 
pounds,  common  salt  5V  pounds,  cassia 
water  11  gallons,  melilot  water  and 
rose  water  each  i  gallon,  tonka  beans 
2  ounces,  and  color  with  3  to  4  pounds 
of  colcothar. 


354 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Frankfort  Snuff.  Convert  100  pounds 
of  leaf  tobacco  into  powder  and  treat  it 
as  follows:  Stems  of  Virginia  tobacco 
cut  up  4£  pounds,  bruised  juniper 
berries  4i  pounds,  elecampane  root  cut 
up  12i  ounces,  cassia  bark,  St.  John's 
bread,  tamarinds,  juniper-berry  juice, 
orange  peel,  and  purified  potash  each 
2  pounds,  licorice  juice  and  sal-am- 
moniac each  i  gallon,  brown  syrup  3i 
pounds,  pure  saltpetre  li  pounds,  and 
water  4  to  4£  gallons. 

Parisian  Rappee.  Boil  dried  prunes 
8£  pounds,  juniper  berries  1  pound, 
tamarinds  4±  pounds,  syrup  3i  pounds, 
sal-ammoniac  8f  ounces,  salt  of  tartar 
1  pound,  and  common  salt  121  pounds 
in  6  gallons  of  water,  and  then  add  1 
gallon  of  French  brandy  and  11  quarts 
of  wine-vinegar.  Moisten  as  much 
tobacco  powder  as  possible  with  this 
mixture  and  pack  the  finished  snuff  in 
tin-foil.  It  improves  with  age. 

Rappee  (Genuine}.  Boil  in  a  cov- 
ered boiler  for  1  hour,  in  5  gallons  of 
water,  1  pound  of  licorice  root  cut  up, 
8|  ounces  each  of  calamus  root  and  bay 
leaves,  and  11  pounds  of  best  logwood. 
Filter  the  decoction  while  still  warm 
into  a  small  barrel  and  dissolve  in  it, 
stirring  constantly  :  Common  salt  9f 
pounds,  potash  1  pound,  sal-ammoniac 
4i  ounces,  and  sulphate  of  iron  8| 
ounces.  When  all  is  entirely  dissolved 
and  thoroughly  mixed  add  21  quarts 
of  wine-vinegar.  With  this  moisten 
100  pounds  of  ground  tobacco,  press  the 
snuff  into  a  barrel,  and  let  it  stand  well 
covered  for  6  weeks,  when  it  is  ready 
to  be  packed  in  tin-foil. 

St.  Vincent  Rappee.  Convert  100 
parts  of  tobacco  into  powder  and  treat 
it  with  the  following  mixture :  Stoned 
plums  4  parts,  honey  2,  bruised  juniper 
berries  1,  calamus  root  chopped  up  1, 
angelica  root  cut  up  i,  sal-ammoniac  4, 
purified  potash  2,  wine-vinegar  6,  pure 
common  salt  12,  and  soft  water  24. 

STERNUTATIVE  (SNEEZING)  POW- 
DERS. Green  Sternutatory.  Convert 
into  a  fine  powder  leaves  of  marjoram, 
sage,  pennyroyal  with  the  flower, 
betony,  and  origan  each  30  parts,  and 
pass  the  powder  through  a  hair-sieve. 
Then  add  15  parts  of  pulverized  orris 
root,  3  parts  of  cloves,  and  2  parts  of 
cinnamon,  each  pulverized  by  itself. 
Mix  the  powders  intimately  and  color 


with  1J  parts  of  fine  indigo  and  21 
parts  of  turmeric  rubbed  to  an  impalpa- 
ble powder,  and  moistened  with  spirit 
of  wine.  This  imparts  to  the  powder 
a  green  color.  Finally  add  a  few  drops 
each  of  the  following  oils :  marjoram, 
cajeput,  lavender,  and  bergamot. 

Variegated  Sternutatory.  Pulverize 
dried  corn  flowers,  common  marigolds, 
lavender  flowers,  leaves  of  marjoram, 
sage,  and  savory  each  2  parts.  Pass 
the  powders  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
then  add  the  following  ingredients  all 
finely  pulverized  and  rubbed  up  with 
&  part  of  sugar:  White  sandal  wood, 
yellow  sandal  wood,  orris  root,  cinna- 
mon, cloves,  zedoary  of  each  1  part, 
and  musk  5V  part,  and  finally  oils  of 
cloves,  cinnamon,  and  cardamon  each 
A  part.  Mix  all  intimately  with  an 
addition  of  2  parts  of  spirit  of  wine, 
and  preserve  in  well-corked  glass  bot- 
tles. 

White  Sternutatory.  Pulverize : 
Orris  root  and  cinnamon  each  30  parts, 
white  Castile  soap  6  parts,  white  sugar 
15  parts,  arum  root  3  parts,  white  helle- 
bore 1  part.  Mix  intimately  and  add 
a  few  drops  of  oil  of  marjoram  and 
essence  of  ambergris. 

Sternutatories  for  Cold  in  the  Head. 
I.  Convert  into  a  fine  powder  and  mix : 
Dried  leaves  of  the  witch-hazel  3  parts, 
marjoram  blossoms  and  lavender  blos- 
soms each  1  part. 

II.  Valerian  leaves  and  snuff  each  8 
parts,  oils  of  lavender  and  marjoram 
each  a  few  drops. 

III.  (Corrizino).  Mix:  Salicylic  acid 
J  part,  tannin  21  parts,  and  pulverized 
borax  21  parts.     Or,  Sodium  salicylate 
10  parts,  rose  leaves  20  parts,  and  snuff 
70  parts. 

Perfumes  for  Cigars.  I.  Fluid 
extract  of  valerian  1  ounce,  tincture 
of  tonka  beans  8  ounces,  alcohol  23 
ounces. 

II.  Valerianic  acid  3  drachms,  bu- 
tyric aldehyde  10  minims,  acetic  ether 
40  minims,  and   sufficient  alcohol  to 
make  64  ounces  of  mixture. 

III.  Tincture  of  valerian  4  drachms, 
butyric  aldehyde  4  drachms,  tincture 
of  vanilla  2   drachms,  ethyl-nitrite  1 
drachm,  alcohol  5  ounces,  and   suffi- 
cient water  to  make  16  ounces  of  mixt- 
ure. 

Turkish  Smoking  Tobacco.    The  pe- 


VINEGAR, 


.culiar  flavor  of  this  tobacco  depends 
not  so  much,  as  is  generally  supposed, 
on  climatic  conditions  and  a  particular 
sauce,  as  on  the  peculiar  treatment  of 
the  leaf  As  soon  as  the  leaves  have 
been  cut,  they  are  moistened  with  soft 
water,  and  then  piled  up  in  layers  on 
the  floor  of  the  tobacco  house,  a  small 
quantity  of  melilot  (Herba  meliloti) 
being  scattered  upon  each  layer.  In 
a  few  days  the  tobacco  begins  to  fer- 
ment, becomes  hot  and  diffuses  a  pun- 
gent but  stupefying  smell.  When 
fermentation  is  complete,  which  is 
recognized  by  the  pile  becoming  cold, 
the  leaves  are  freed  from  the  adhering 
melilot,  and  then  strung  on  cords  or 
packed  in  boxes. 

The  honey-aroma  of  the  melilot  has 
been  imparted  to  the  tobacco  during 
fermentation,  the  cumarin  of  the  meli- 
lot forming  very  likely  a  new  combi- 
nation with  the  pectine  substances  of 
the  tobacco,  since  without  fermenta- 
tion the  desired  result  is  not  obtained. 
In  some  parts  of  Servia  and  Turkey 
the  tobacco,  after  cutting,  is  slightly 
sprinkled  with  honey-water,  and  then 
pressed  for  transportation  into  leather 
bags  or  tin  boxes. 

To  Impart  to  Common  American 
Tobacco  the  Flavor  of  Havana  To- 
bacco. To  dissolve  the  gummy  sub- 
stance, which  causes  the  bad  taste, 
soak  the  tobacco  in  cold  or  hot  water 
for  6  to  12  hours.  The  tobacco  is  then 
freed  from  the  gum  by  pressing,  dried, 
and  steeped  in  an  infusion  of  stems  and 
ribs  of  genuine  Cuba  tobacco,  and 
again  dried.  Leaves  thus  prepared  are 
equal  to  imported  leaf,  ana  can  be 
used  as  wrappers  for  Havana  fillers 
without  injury  to  the  taste  of  the  ci- 
gars. 

New  Process  of  Preparing  Tobacco. 
Fill  an  enamelled  sheet-iron  pot  with 
pressed  tobacco  leaves  and  cover  it 
with  a  perforated  lid  to  allow  the  es- 
cape of  the  gases.  Heat  the  vessel 
gradually  in  a  sand  or  water-bath  so 
that  in  the  course  of  6  hours  the  tem- 
perature rises  to  212°  F.,  but  in  the 
first  3  hours  it  must  not  rise  above  180° 
F.  The  tobacco  curls,  loses  weight, 
and  the  leaves,  which  have  assumed  a 
darker  color,  are  covered  with  a  gray- 
ish dust.  Tobacco  thus  prepared 
burns  well,  has  an  agreeable  odor,  and 


is  especially  suitable  for  the  manu- 
facture of  cigars,  since  it  is  freed  from 
all  injurious  constituents. 

Preparation  of  Leaf  Tobacco  for  Ci- 
gars. Prepare  a  lye  from  red  and  white 
beech-ash,  filter  it  while  hot,  and  after 
pouring  it  boiling  hot  over  the  tobacco 
leaves  let  them  soak  for  24  hours.  Then 
rinse  the  tobacco  in  baskets  with  clean 
water,  and  press  and  dry.  When  thor- 
oughly dry  the  leaves  are  treated  as  fol- 
lows :  Boil  for  one  hour  over  a  moderate 
fire  28  parts  of  beer-wort,  i  of  powdered 
cubebs,  i  of  bay-berries,  Aof  bruised  juni- 
per berries,  i  of  powdered  coriander  seed, 
and  i  of  storax.  In  another  vessel  boil  1 
part  of  wine  and  \  of  powdered  cascarilla 
bark  previously  soaked  for  12  hours  in 
the  wine  and  add  the  decoction  to  the  first 
liquor.  Pour  off  the  supernatant  liquid; 
when  cold,  moisten  the  tobacco  with  it. 

To  give  to  cigars,  made  from  tobacco 

S-epared  as  above,  the  odor  of  genuine 
avana  tobacco,  proceed  as  follows :  To 
100  parts  of  French  wine  add  2  parts 
of  cascarilla  bark  and  2  of  vanilla 
previously  grated  with  15  of  sugar. 
Cork  the  flask  and  let  it  stand  in  a 
warm  place  for  8  days.  Then  pour  off 
the  liquid  and  add  50  parts  of  mastic 
extract.  Moisten  the  cigars  with  this 
and  pack  them  in  boxes.  Keep  the 
lids  of  the  boxes  nailed  down  to  pre- 
vent the  access  of  air. 

VINEGAR.  MANUFACTURE  or  ORDI- 
NARY AND  FINE  TABLE  VINEGARS. 

Altvater's  Process  of  Manufacturing 
Vinegar.  A.  Ar- 
rangement of  the 
factory.  The 
building  should 
be  soKd,with  tight 
fitting  windows 
and  doors  to  pre- 
vent outside  at- 
mospheric influ- 
ences. The  walls 
should  be  covered 
with  hard  plaster 
or  clay,  not  iime- 
Avashed,  but  coat- 
ed with  asphaltum,  and  all  wood  and 
iron  painted  with  oil  paint. 

B.  Utensils.  It  is  best  to  use  coni- 
cal barrels,  as  represented  by  Fig.  42, 
each  of  a  capacity  of  about  2tJ5  gallons. 


Fig.  42. 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


The  use  of  smaller  barrels  is  not  ad- 
visable, since  experience  has  shown  that 
a  uniform  temperature  cannot  be  kept 
up  in  them,  thus  preventing  the  vinegar 
from  attaining  the  proper  quality. 

Only  beech-wood  but  recently  cut 
should  be  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
vinegar.  The  billets  are  sawed  up  in 
pieces  18  inches  long;  these  are  again 
divided  into  flat  pieces  12  inches  thick, 
which  are  then  converted  by  means  of 
a  large  plane  into  fine  shavings,  and 
the  latter  lixiviated  by  steeping  in 
water  for  2  days. 

The  barrels  are  arranged  in  the 
Vinegar-room  of  the  factory  in  such  a 
way  as  to  allow  a  person  to  pass  be- 
tween them  and  the  wall,  so  that,  in 
case  a  barrel  leaks  or  a  hoop  bursts, 
the  damage  can  be  conveniently  re- 
paired. The  barrels  should  stand 
about  3  feet  above  the  floor,  and  a  plat- 
form about  5V  feet  high  run  in  front  of 
them,  to  allow  the  workmen  to  pass 
along  and  conveniently  look  into  the 
barrels. 

The  barrels  are  filled  with  shavings ; 
and  the  latter  stamped  down  so  as  to 
leave  a  space  of  6  inches  between  them 
and  the  top  of  the  barrel.  Immedi- 
ately upon  the  shavings  comes  a 
perforated  cover,  so  secured  that  no 
fluid  can  transude  between  it  and  the 
barrel-staves.  The  barrel  is  then  cov- 
ered with  a  cover  of  pine-wood  joined 


Fig.  43. 

together  with  wooden  nails  and  con- 
sisting of  two  parts,  the  front  part 
being  somewhat  smaller  than  the  back. 


In  the  centre  of  the  cover  is  a  hole  as 
shown  in  Fig.  43.  The  perforated 
cover  is  made  of  oak-wood  1  inch  thick, 
and  strengthened  with  cross-pieces  to 
prevent  its  warping.  The  holes  are 
bored  or,  what  is  better,  burned  through 
with  a  thin  piece  of  iron,  and  should 
be  about  1  inch  apart.  In  the  four 
large  holes  seen  in  the  illustration 
(Fig.  44)  tubes  ^  inch  in  diameter  and 
projecting  3  inches  above  the  cover  are 
placed.  At  a  distance  of  2  inches  be- 
low the  perforated  cover  a  hole  is 
bored  in  the  right  side  of  the  barrel,  in 
which  is  placed  a  thermometer,  so  that 


Fig.  44. 

the  temperature  can  always  be  ob- 
served. Twelve  inches  above  the 
bottom  of  the  barrel  is  a  large  wooden 
faucet,  and  under  this  stands  a  bucket 
capable  of  holding  24  gallons  without 
becoming  too  full.  Fig.  45  represents 
the  entire  arrangement.  When  every- 
thing is  in  order  the  barrels  are  acidu- 
lated in  the  following  order. 

F'irxt  Day.  At  5  o'clock  P.  M.  acetic 
acid  is  heated  in  a  tinned  boiler  to  122° 
to  167°  F.  Ninety  gallons  of  this  are 
poured  into  each  tank,  1  wine-glassful 
of  whiskey  of  25  per  cent,  being 
added  to  every  bucketful.  The  bar- 
rels are  then  allowed  to  stand  quietly 
till  the  next  day. 

Xcct»«l  Dn\i  The  next  morning  at  7 
o'clock  the  faucets  are  turned  to  test 
whether  all  the  acetic  acid  has  been 
absorbed  by  the  shavings,  or  whether 
there  is  any  fluid  in  the  barrel.  Should 
the  quantity  of  fluid  be  very  small  90 
gallons  of  warm  acetic  acid  with  the 


VINEGAR. 


addition  of  the  above-mentioned  quan- 
tity of  whiskey  are  again  poured  into 
each  barrel,  and  the  latter  allowed  to 
stand  quietly  for  a  few  hours.  At  2 
o'clock  P.  M.  2i  gallons  of  liquor  are 
drawn  from  each  barrel  into  the  buckets 
standing  under  the  faucets,  and  poured 
back  over  the  contents  of  the  barrel. 
This  operation  is  repeated  at  3  P..  M., 


Taking  barrels  I.,  II.,  and  III.  as  an 
example,"  at  5  o'clock  A.  M.  2i  gallons 
are  drawn  from  each  barrel,  that  drawn 
from  No.  III.  being  conveyed  to  the 
storing-barrel  in  the  cellar  as  finished 
vinegar.  The  bucketful  drawn  from 
No.  I.  is  poured  upon  the  contents  of 
No.  II.,  and  that  from  No.  II.  upon 
those  of  No.  III.  Upon  I.  is  poured  2i 


Fig.  45. 


but  with  an  addition  of  a  wine-glassful 
of  whiskey  to  each  bucket.  The  oper- 
ation is  repeated  in  the  following  order: 

At  4  P.  M.  as  at  2  P.  M.,  without  an 
addition  of  whiskey  ;  at  5  P.  M.,  as  at 
3  P.  M. ;  at  6  P.  M.  as  at  4  P.  M. ;  at  7 
p.  M.  as  at  5  P.  M. ;  at  8  P.  M.  as  at  4  P.  M. 

Third  Day.  At  5  A.  M.  as  at  3  P.  M.  ; 
at  6  A.  M.  as  at  2  p.  M. ;  at  7  A.  M.  as  at 
3  P.  M. ;  at  8  A.  M.  as  at  2  P.  M. ;  at  9 
A.  M.  as  at  3  P.  M. ;  at  10  A.  M.  as  at  2 
p.  M. ;  at  11  A.  M.  as  at  3  P.  M. ;  at  12  M. 
as  at  2  P.  M.  ;  at  1  P.  M.  as  at  3  P.  M. 

As  will  be  seen  from  the  foregoing, 
at  the  even  hours  the  2£  gallons  are 
poured  back  without  an  addition  of 
whiskey;  while  at  the  odd  hours  1 
wine-glassful  of  whiskey  of  25  per  cent, 
is  added  to  every  2i  gallons  poured  back 
over  the  contents  of  the  tanks.  This 
process  is  continued  for  2  or  3  days  more, 
after  which  the  tanks  will  have  become 
heated  and  the  thermometer  show  a  tem- 
perature of  86°  to  100°  F.  The  acidulat- 
ing of  the  tanks  is  now  finished  and  the 
regular  fabrication  is  proceeded  with. 

Three  barrels  are  worked  together  so 
that  barrels  I.,  II.,  and  III.,  and  bar- 
rels IV.,  V.,  and  VI.,  and  so  on,  belong 
to  one  set. 


gallons  of  diluted  whiskey  of  7  percent. 
Tralles.  The  same  operation  is  repeated 
at  6  o'clock  A.  M.  At  7  A.  M.  2i  gallons 
are  drawn  from  each  barrel,  and  poured 
back  upon  its  contents.  At  8A.  M.  2i  gal- 
lons are  again  drawn  from  each  barrel. 
To  the  quantity  drawn  from  No.  I.  is 
added  i  pint  of  whiskey  of  25  per  cent. 
T.,  and  is  then  poured  upon  the  con- 
tents of  No.  II.  That  drawn  from  No. 
II.,  without  an  addition  of  whiskey,  is 
poured  upon  those  of  No.  I. ;  that  drawn 
from  No.  III.,  to  which  has  been  added 
the  same  quantity  of  whiskey  as  to  No. 
I.,  is  poured  back  into  the  same  barrel. 
At  10.45  A.  M.  2i  gallons  are  drawn 
from  each  barrel,  and  poured  back  over 
the  contents.  The  operations  are  re- 
peated as  follows : 

At  12  M.  the  same  as  at  5  A.  M. ;  at 
1.45  P.  M.  the  same  as  at  8.45  A.  M. ;  at 
3  P.  M.  the  same  as  at  12  M. ;  at  4.30 
P.  M.  the  same  as  at  8.45  A.  M. ;  at  6 
P.  M.  the  same  as  at  10.45  A.  M. ;  at  7 
p.  M.  the  same  as  at  12  M. ;  at  8  P.  M.  the 
same  as  at  7  P.  M. 

As  will  be  seen  ready  vinegar  is  al- 
ways taken  from  No.  III.  6  times  a  day, 
namely  at  5  o'clock,6,12,3,7,and  8,  yield- 
ing daily  about  16  gallons  of  45°  to  50°. 


358 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


The  principal  point  in  the  manufact- 
ure of  vinegar  is  strict  regularity. 
Should  it  happen  that  through  an  ir- 
regular pouring  the  temperature  of  the 
barrels  has  sunk  below  72 i°  F.,  the 
barrels  must  be  allowed  to  stand  quietly 
for  I  or  2  days  until  the  proper  temper- 
ature has  been  restored.  A  temperature 
of  70°  to  77°  F.  should  always  prevail 
in  the  factory,  and  one  of  86°  to  104° 
F.  in  the  barrels.  The  vinegar  should 
be  immediately  conveyed  into  the  cel- 
lar. It  is  first  stored  in  uncovered  bar- 
rels, filled  loosely  with  shavings,  where 
it  remains  for  2  days,  and  is  then  drawn 
off  into  storing-barrels. 


rc 


Fig.  46. 

Plunging  " Vinegar  Producers"    In 
the  vessel  A  (Fig.  46)  moves  a  plunger  E 

Erovided  with  a  perforated  bottom.  It 
i  filled  with  shavings  and  periodically 
immersed  in  the  vinegar-stock  con- 
tained in  A.  The  air  enters  through 
the  aperture  C,  and  passes  out  through 
the  pipe  F.  A  and  E  are  hermetically 
closed  by  the  rubber  ring  D,  fastened 
either  to  A  or  E. 

Utilization  of  Cork-waste  in  the 
Manufacture  of  Vinegar.  The  wood 
shavings  generally  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  vinegar  act  vigorously  for 
some  time,  but  lose  perceptibly  in  effi- 
ciency. This  is  explained  by  the  fact 
that  the  shavings  as  soon  as  permeated 
with  the  fluid  press  down  the  layers 
beneath  them  by  their  increased  weight, 
and  thus  prevent  a  free  access  of  air. 


It  has,  therefore,  been  recommended 
to  replace  the  shavings  by  cork-waste. 
The  elasticity  of  cork  is  increased  by 
its  becoming  moist,  and  a  compression 
of  the  filling  need  not  be  feared  even  in 
very  deep  barrels.  In  the  cracks 
of  the  cork  many  small  organisms  are 
found,  and  among  them  a  large  quan- 
tity of  vinegar- bacteria,  in  consequence 
of  which  barrels  filled  with  cork- waste 
become  quickly  acidulated. 

Concentration  of  Vinegar  by  Means 
of  Calcium  Chloride.  Two  glass 
vessels,  one  containing  vinegar  and  the 
other  calcium  chloride,  are  placed  in  a 
glass  holder.  The  vinegar  gradually 
yields  water  to  the  calcium  salt. 

To  Prepare  the  Yellow  Color  for 
Coloring  Vinegar.  Melt  250  parts  of 
pulverized  r'hite  sugar  in  a  boiler  over 
a  clear  fire.  When  the  syrup  is  thick 
enough  to  drop  slowly  from  the  stirring 
implement  add  1000  parts  of  water,  and 
after  mixing  this  thoroughly  with  the 
sugar  syrup  the  color  is  ready  for  use. 

To  Prepare  Acetic  Ether.  Place  600 
parts  of  sodium  acetate  in  a  tubulated 
glass  retort;  pour  over  it  420  parts  of 
crude  sulphuric  acid  mixed  with  340 
parts  of  spirit  of  wine,  and  distil  until 
370  parts  of  fluid  have  passed  over. 
Then  compound  the  distillate  with  a 
solution  of  potassium  acetate  in  water 
until  the  ether  is  separated,  and  rectify 
this  over  5  parts  of  calcined  mag- 
nesia. 

Quick  Vinegar  Process.  Mix  alcohol 
of  80  per  cent,  with  6  parts  of  water 
and  TI&O  part  of  yeast,  or  some  other  fer- 
ment containing  nitrogen,  and  heat  the 
mixture  to  about  80°  F.,  and  cause  it  to 
trickle  from  cords  fastened  to  a  shelf 
placed  over  beech-wood  shavings  soaked 
in  vinegar  and  packed  in  a  cask  bored 
with  holes  to  permit  a  circulation  of 
air.  The  oxidation  of  the  alcohol  soon 
raises  the  temperature  to  about  100°  F., 
which  occasions  a  free  circulation  of 
air  among  the  shavings.  The  mixture 
is  passed  3  or  4  times  through  the  cask, 
and  in  about  36  hours  the  conversion 
into  vinegar  is  completed.  The  oxida- 
tion of  the  alcohol  in  this  process  is 
found  to  be  arrested  by  the  presence  of 
essential  oils,  or  of  creosote  and  similar 
antiseptic  substances. 

Production  of  Vinegar  by  Means  of 
Bacteria.  The  process  first  introduced 


VINEGAR. 


359 


by  Pasteur  consists  in  planting  (sowing) 
acetic  acid  bacteria  (mother  of  vinegar) 
upon  a  mixture  of  wine  and  vinegar,  or 
water  with  1  per  cent,  of  acetic  acid  and 
2  per  cent,  of  alcohol  and  mineral  nour- 
ishing salts,  and,  after  the  conversion 
into  acetic  acid  of  half  the  alcohol 
used,  adding  alcohol  daily  in  small 
portions  until  the  fluid  contains  enough 
of  it  to  give  the  vinegar  the  degree 
demanded  in  commerce.  In  order  to 
add  the  alcoholic  fluid  without  de- 
stroying the  bacteria  by  immediate 
contact,  two  gutta-percha  tubes  per- 
forated on  the  sides  are  fastened  upon 
the  bottom  of  the  vat. 

Mr.  E.  Wurm,  after  having  obtained 
satisfactory  results  by  experimenting 
in  a  small  way,  commenced  the  fabrica- 
tion of  vinegar  on  a  large  scale  accord- 
ing to  Pasteur's  method.  The  mode 
of  manufacture  is  as  follows:  Large 
wooden  vats  are  charged  with  50  gal- 
lons of  the  above  vinegar  mixture,  and 
the  nourishing  salts  consisting  of  0.01 
per  cent,  each  of  the  phosphates  of  po- 
tassium, calcium,  and  magnesium.  The 
vats  are  covered  with  tight  wooden  lids. 
The  air  is  admitted  through  small  holes 
in  the  sides.  The  bacteria  are  planted 
by  means  of  a  thin  spatula  of  wood,  and 
the  fluid  heated  to  77°  to  86°  F.,  while 
the  room  in  which  the  vats  are  located 
has  a  permanent  temperature  of  86°  F. 
The  percentage  of  acetic  acid  (1  per 
cent.)  in  the  setting-fluid,  recommended 
by  Pasteur,  was  found  too  low,  since  a 
fluid  so  weakly  acidulated  is  easily  at- 
tacked by  saccharomyces  mycoderma, 
which  prevent  the  growth  of  the  acetic 
acid  bacteria  and  the  formation  of  vin- 
egar by  a  direct  combustion  of  the  al- 
cohol present  into  carbonic  acid.  Ex- 
periments proved  that  with  an  addition 
of  2  per  cent,  of  acetic  acid  a  pure 
growth  of  bacteria  was  obtained,  while 
at  a  lower  percentage,  up  to  1.2  per 
cent,  of  acid,  the  formation  of  sacchar- 
omyces mycoderma  increased,  and  that 
of  bacteria  decreased.  The  addition  of 
2  per  cent,  of  alcohol  recommended  by 
Pasteur  was  found  to  be  sufficient.  The 
formation  of  vinegar  progressed  now  in 
the  following  manner :  The  planted 
bacteria  covered  the  entire  surface  in  24 
to  <36  hours,  the  temperature  of  the  fluid 
rising  to  93^°  F.,  and  a  strong  smell  of 
acetic  acid  becoming  at  the  same  time 


perceptible.  The  practical  yield  of 
acetic  acid  is  less  than  that  promised 
by  theory.  The  loss  of  alcohol  by  this 
method  amounts  to  10  to  15  per  cent., 
while,  when  casks  filled  with  shavings 
are  used,  it  is  from  12  to  15  per  cent,  in 
the  production  of  ordinary  acetic  vin- 
egar spirit  of  23  per  cent. ;  2  per  cent, 
by  volume  of  alcohol  furnished  acetic 
acid  of  1.7  to  1.8  per  cent.,  the  produc- 
tion of  stronger  vinegar  requiring  there- 
fore an  addition  of  alcohol.  This  must 
only  be  done  when  but  £  to  J  of  1  per 
cent,  of  alcohol  is  present  in  the  mixt- 
ure, and  the  fluid  coming  in  contact 
with  the  bacteria  must  never  contain 
over  0.5  per  cent,  of  alcohol,  since,  as 
Pasteur  has  already  shown,  a  too  strong 
addition  of  alcohol  may  easily  destroy 
the  formation  of  vinegar.  The  alcohol 
to  be  added  is  distributed  in  the  fluid 
by  means  of  a  strong  perforated  porce- 
lain tube  reaching  from  the  bottom  of 
the  vat  to  the  surface  of  the  fluid  ;  not 
more  than  A  of  1  per  cent,  should  be 
added  daily.  When  the  vinegar  has 
acquired  the  desired  degree  of  strength 
it  is  drawn  off  into  a  clarifying  vat  in 
order  to  free  it  from  turbidity  caused 
by  adhering  particles  of  the  plant. 
The  other  vat  is  then  thoroughly 
cleansed  with  brushes  and  charged 
anew.  The  principal  requisites  for  the 
success  of  the  operation  are  pure  bac- 
teria seed,  a  uniform  temperature  of 
86°  F.,  and  a  well-regulated  addition 
of  alcohol.  By  strictly  observing  these 
precautions  this  new  process  can  be 
very  easily  carried  out,  and  offers  the 
following  advantages :  1.  It  produces 
vinegar  in  one-half  the  time  of  any 
quick  process  formerly  used.  Ten  vats 
yield  daily  as  much  acetic  acid  as  3 
barrels  9|  feet  high, filled  with  shavings  ; 
but  the  cost  of  ten  vats,  with  all  appur- 
tenances, is  scarcely  one-half  that  of  the 
casks  with  the  necessary  filling.  2.  By 
a  suitable  arrangement  of  the  vats  less 
room  is  required.  3.  By  reason  of  the 
vats  being  emptied  in  10  to  15  days  and 
cleansed,  the  vinegar-eels  (vibrios)  have 
no  time  to  increase  in  a  disturbing 
manner.  It  is  only  necessary  to  see 
that  the  fungus  seed  is  not  taken  from 
a  fluid  containing  eels,  and  this  can  be 
easily  avoided  since  the  eels  are  percept- 
ible to  the  naked  eye.  If,  in  spite  of 
all  precautions,  the  fluid  in  one  of  the 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


vats  should  become  eely,  it  is  drawn  off  j 
and  heated  by  means  of  boiling  water 
or  steam  to  140°  F.,  and  the  vat  itself 
scoured  with  boiling  water  and  a  little 
sulphuric  acid,  and  the  fluid,  after  cool- 
ing, replaced  in  it.  4.  While  the  acid- 
ulation  of  a  new  barrel  filled  with 
shavings  requires  4  to  8  weeks,  and  the 
vinegar  produced  during  the  first  4 
weeks  has  always  a  strong  taste  of 
wood,  Pasteur's  method  furnishes  at 
once  a  good  product,  without  any  loss 
of  vinegar,  and  the  work  can  be  in- 
terrupted at  any  time,  it  being  only 
necessary  to  provide  a  stock  of  fungus 
seed.  The  manufacture  is  simpler, 
surer,  and  cheaper,  but  requires  a  daily 
and  accurate  controlling  of  the  working 
vats. 

White  Wine  Vinegar  is  produced  in 
France  from  light  wines.  A  little  vine- 
gar is  poured  into  a  cask  partially 
open  at  the  top,  together  with  5  to  6  gal- 
lons of  white  wine,  which  has  been 
allowed  to  trickle  over  wood  shavings. 
In  a  few  days,  during  which  the  tem- 
perature is  maintained  at  about  80°  F., 
a  fresh  quantity  of  wine  is  poured  in, 
and  in  the  course  of  12  to  14  days 
half  the  vinegar  contained  in  the  cask 
is  drawn  off  and  replaced  by  a  fresh 
portion  of  wine.  In  this  way  an  occa- 
sional renewal  of  the  air  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  cask  is  provided  for.  The 
Rectification  is  found  to  proceed  more 
rapidly  in  old  casks  than  in  new,  which 
is  attributed  to  the  presence  of  bacteria 
or  mother  of  vinegar. 

To  Prepare  Acetic  Acid.  Mix  26 
parts  of  pulverized  potassium  sulphate 
and  15  of  crude  sulphuric  acid,  evapo- 
rate to  dryness  and  melt  the  residue; 
then  cool  and  pulverize  it  and  add  24 
parts  of  dry  sodium  acetate  obtained  by 
heating  moderately  about  40  parts  of 
ordinary  sodium  acetate,  and  distil  in  a 
sand-bath,  thoroughly  cooling  the  re- 
ceiver until  14  parts  of  acetic  acid  have 
passed  over. 

To  Prepare  Excellent  Vinegar. 
Bruise  200  parts  of  large  raisins,  12£ 
parts  of  crude  tartar,  and  100  parts  of 
wheat  malt,  and  work  them  to  a  stiff 
paste  by  adding  hot  water.  Let  this 
stand  for  half  an  hour,  then  pour  1800 
to  2000  parts  of  hot  water  over  it,  and 
let  it  stand  for  3  hours.  Now  pour  it 
in  a  barrel  provided  with  a  faucet  and 


standing  near  a  warm  stove.  When 
the  mixture  is  as  warm  as  the  hand 
will  bear  add  300  parts  of  yeast  and 
stir  thoroughly.  After  3  hours,  when 
all  the  yeast  is  fermented,  add  400  parts 
of  sharp  wine-vinegar,  let  it  stand  for 
24  hours,  and  then  draw  off  the  fluid. 
Remove  the  yeast  and  cleanse  the  barrel 
by  rinsing  it  with  water.  Replace  the 
fluid  in  the  barrel,  bung  tightly,  and 
let  it  stand  quietly  for  14  days,  when 
the  vinegar  will  be  sour.  After  it  has 
laid  for  6  weeks  draw  it  off,  and  to 
improve  the  vinegar  repeat  the  opera- 
tion several  times.  Vinegar  thus  pre- 
pared is  nearly  equal  to  the  best  wine- 
vinegar. 

Vinegar  from  Potatoes  or  Rice.  Grate 
3500  parts  of  potatoes  and  add  2000  to 
2500  parts  of  water  and  20  parts  of  sul- 
phuric acid.  Let  the  mixture  boil  for 
6  hours,  and  run  it  through  a  strainer 
into  a  cooler,  in  order  to  separate  the 
fluid  from  the  sediment.  The  fluid  is 
then  drawn  off  into  another  vat  and 
placed  in  a  room  having  a  temperature 
of  79°  F.,  and  I  part  of  potash  dissolved 
in  water  and  560  parts  of  yeast  are 
added,  some  more  yeast  being  added  in 
the  course  of  3  days  to  promote  fermen- 
tation. Now  fill  "a  barrel  loosely  with 
beech-wood  shavings  or  grape  husks 
saturated  with  strong  vinegar,  and 
pour,  every  morning  and  evening,  200 
parts  of  the  fermented  fluid  over  them 
until  the  barrel  is  full.  Then  draw  off 
200  parts  and  pour  them  into  another 
vessel  half-filled  with  vinegar,  and  from 
this  into  another  barrel  filled  loosely 
with  beech-wood  shavings,  where  the 
vinegar  is  allowed  to  cool  and  clarify, 
and  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Fine  Table  Vinegars.  Anise  Vine- 
gar. Convert  the  following  ingredients 
into  a  coarse  powder:  Anise  seed  5  parts, 
caraway  seed  i  part,  fennel  and  coriander 
seed  each  J  part ;  pour  5  parts  of  alco- 
hol and  45  parts  of  good  strong  vinegar 
over  the  powders,  close  the  flask  her- 
metically, and  let  the  whole  digest  in  a 
warm  place  for  6  to  8  days,  shaking 
frequently.  Then  strain  the  liquid  off, 
press  out  the  residue,  filter  the  vinegar, 
aijd  put  it  up  in  bottles. 

'Aromatic  Vinegar.  Chop  up  leaves 
of  rosemary,  sage,  and  peppermint  each 
I  part,  cloves,  zedoary,  and  angelica 
root  each  J  part ;  place  all  in  a  suitable 


J.INEGAR. 


361 


flask,  into  which  also  pour  30  parts  of  J  the  whole  stand  for  a  few  days,  and 
crude  vinegar,  let  it  macerate  for  4  days,  j  then  filter  through  blotting  paper, 
then  press  out  and  filter.  The  product  This  vinegar  must  be  kept  in  well- 


is  a  clear  fluid  of  a  reddish-brown  color. 

Dragonsicort  (Estragon)  Vinegar. 
Pick  the  young  tender  leaves  of  dragons- 
wort  (Artemisia  dracunculus  L.)  when 
the  first  flower-buds  appear.  Bruise 
the  leaves,  place  them  in  a  suitable 
flask,  pour  good  wine- vinegar  over 
them,  and  let  the  whole  stand  for  a  few 
days.  Then  strain  the  vinegar  through 
a  cloth,  filter,  and  bottle.  The  bottles 
must  be  filled  entirely  full,  as  other- 
wise the  vinegar  will  not  keep. 

Another  Receipt.  Mix  11  parts  of 
oil  of  dragonswort  with  3000  parts  of 
pure  good  vinegar,  let  the  whole  stand 
for  a  few  days,  and  then  filter  the  vine- 


gar 


Compound  Dragonswort  Vinegar  or 


closed  bottles  and  in  a  cool  place. 

Effervescing  Vinegar.  Dissolve  500 
parts  of  loaf  sugar  in  5000  parts  of 
water,  add  lemon  juice  and  rind  cut  up 
in  the  proportion  of  1  lemon  to  1  pound 
of  sugar,  11  parts  of  the  best  cinnamon, 
and  121  parts  of  beer-yeast  thoroughly 
washed.  Place  the  whole  in  a  barrel, 
and  after  agitating  thoroughly  let  it 
ferment  at  a  temperature  of  55°  to  GO0 
F.  When  fermentation  has  ceased  the 
vinous  fluid  is  strained,  and  mixed  with 
1000  parts  of  best  wine-vinegar  pre- 
viously boiled  up,  and  yeast  in  the  pro- 
portion of  1  spoonful  to  5  pounds  of 
sugar.  The  fluid  is  then  distributed  in 
several  earthenware  pots  and  exposed 
to  a  temperature  of  77°  to  88°  F.,  until 


Herb  Table  Vinegar.  Comminute  leaves  it  has  been  converted  into  strong  vine- 
of  dragonswort  100  parts,  bean  leaves  gar.  This,  while  remaining  in  the 
25  parts,  leaves  of  basil  and  marjoram  I  pots,  is  mixed  with  200  parts  of  French 
each  12^  parts,  bay  leaves  and  orris  brandy  and  after  two  days  bottled  in 
root  each  25  parts,  cloves  31  parts,  cin-  small  bottles.  To  each  pound  of  this 
namon  61  parts,  and  shallots  25  parts,  vinegar  are  added  f  part  of  crystallized 
Put  all  in  a  demijohn,  pour  700  to  750  tartaric  acid  pulverized  and  \  part  of 
parts  of  pure  good  vinegar  over  it,  let  i  bicarbonate  of  sodium.  The  bottles,  as 
it  stand  on  a  warm  place  and  digest  5  j  soon  as  the  respective  portion  of  the 
to  6  days,  frequently  agitating  it.  Then  j  mixture  has  been  added  to  each,  must 
strain  the  vinegar  through  linen,  press  ' 
out  the  residue  with  the  hands,  add  25 
parts  of  alcohol,  and  filter.  Keep  the 
vinegar  in  well-corked  bottles  in  a  cool 
place. 

Spiced  Dragonswort  Vinegar.  Cut 
up  and  treat  as  above  leaves  of  drag- 
onswort 100  parts,  fresh  lemon  peel  40 
parts,  cinnamon  and  coriander  seed 
each  131  parts,  fennel  seed  31  parts, 
cardamons  $  part,  shallots  25  parts, 
and  vinegar  700  to  750  parts. 

English  Spiced  Vinegar*  I.  Pour 
400  parts  of  pure  vinegar  and  50  parts 
of  strong  alcohol  over  the  following 
ingredients,  previously  pulverized : 
Cloves  25  parts,  cassia  bark,  mace,  and 
orange  blossoms  each  31  parts.  Let 
the  whole  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  1 
week,  then  strain  through  a  cloth,  press 
out  the  residue,  and  filter. 

II.  Mix  oils  of  cloves  96  drops,  ber- 
gamot  70  drops,  and  camphor  151 
grains,  triturated  with  4J  ounces  of 
strong  acetic  acid  and  15  drops  of  acetic 
ether.  Add  to  this  mixture  2  gallons 
of  pure  vinegar,  mix  thoroughly,  let 


be  corked  as  quickly  as  possible,  and 
then  stored  in  a  cool  place. 

Herb  Vinegar  as  Prepared  in  the 
Northern  Part  of  Germany.  Chop  fine 
the  leaves  of  marjoram  and  thyme  each 
131  parts,  bean  leaves  61  parts,  leaves 
of  mint,  basil,  and  celery  each  31 

Krts,  and  11  parts  of  fresh  shallots. 
ur  600  to  700  parts  of  good  vinegar 
over  the  herbs,  and  treat  in  the  same 
manner  as  given  for  compound  dragons- 
wort  vinegar. 

Herb  Vinegar  as  Prepared  on  the 
Rhine.  Chop  up  leaves  of  fresh  drag- 
onswort and  woodroof  each  20  parts, 
borage  11  parts,  fresh  mint  31  parts. 
Pour  600  to  750  parts  of  good  vinegar 
over  them,  and  then  proceed  as 
given  for  compound  dragouswort  vine- 
gar. 

Lemon  Vinegar.  Remove  the  rindi 
from  5  to  6  fresh  lemons,  press  out  the 
juice  and  let.it  stand  in  a  tall  covered 
glass  until  clarified.  Then  pound  the 
rinds  to  a  paste  and  pour  1  gallon  of 
good  vinegar  over  it.  Let  it  stand  for  • 
a  few  days,  then  pour  off  the  vinegar, 


362 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


mix  it  with  the  clear  lemon  juice,  filter 
and  bottle  the  vinegar. 

Orange  Vinegar.  Peel  5  to  6  fresh 
oranges,  press  out  the  juice  in  a  tall 
glass,  and  let  it  stand  covered  to 
clarify.  Free  the  rinds  from  the  white 
parts,  pound  them  to  a  paste  and  pour 
1  gallon  of  good  vinegar  over  it,  and 
proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  given 
for  lemon  vinegar. 

Pine-apple  Vinegar.  This  excellent 
vinegar  soon  loses  its  flavor,  and  it  is 
therefore  best  to  prepare  a  small  quan- 
tity at  a  time  and  keep  it  in  hermet- 
ically closed  bottles. 

Bruise  the  slices  of  pine-apple  and 
pour  over  them  a  considerable  quantity 
of  vinegar.  Close  the  vessel  as  tightly 
as  possible  and  let  it  stand  12  hours; 
after  which  pour  off  the  vinegar  and 
filter  it. 

Raspberry  Vinegar.  Crush  perfectly 
ripe  raspberries  to  a  paste,  let  it  stand 
24  to  36  hours;  then  put  1  pound  of 
this  paste  into  a  jar,  pour  li  to  2  gal- 
lons of  vinegar  over  it,  place  it  in  a 
warm  place,  but  not  in  the  sun,  and 
shake  frequently.  After  standing  for 
several  days  strain  the  mixture 
through  a  cloth,  add  1  gill  of  alcohol, 
mix  thoroughly,  and  filter  the  vinegar. 
The  bottles  should  be  entirely  filled 
and  kept  in  a  cool  place. 

Strawberry  Vinegar.  Mash  thor- 
oughly ripe  strawberries,  let  the  paste 
stand  in  a  warm  place  for  24  hours, 
then  press  out  the  juice,  bottle  and  let  it 
stand  for  a  few  days  to  ferment  and  to 
allow  the  slimy  constituents  to  separate. 
Then  filter  the  juice  and  put  it  in  well- 
closed  glass  bottles  which  should  be 
scrupulously  clean,  where  it  will  keep 
for  a  long  time.  When  it  is  to  be  used 
for  flavoring,  add  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  it  to  good  vinegar. 

Vanilla  Vinegar.  Triturate  in  a 
porcelain  mortar  4  parts  of  vanilla 
bean  cut  up  with  some  white  sugar,  add 
2  parts  each  of  pulverized  cloves  and 
cinnamon,  put  all  in  a  flask  and  digest 
it  with  30  parts  of  strong  alcohol  for 
several  days.  Then  add  250  to  270 
parts  of  good  vinegar,  let  it  stand  for 
some  time,  shaking  it  frequently,  then 
strain  through  a  cloth  and  finally  filter. 
This  vinegar  is  usually  colored  red. 

Vinaigre  a  la  Bordin.  Chop  up: 
Leaves  of  dragonswort  20  parts,  bay 


leaves  10  parts,  angelica  root  6i  parts, 
capers  and  anchovies  each  10  parts, 
shallots  6^  parts,  and  pour  150  parts 
of  good  vinegar  over  them.  Let  the 
whole  stand  for  3  days,  shaking  fre- 
quently, then  strain  through  a  cloth, 
press  out  the  residue,  and  filter  the 
vinegar. 

Vinaigre  a  la  Ravigote.  Leaves  of 
dragonswort  25  parts,  bay  leaves  6i 
parts,  capers  13J  parts,  anchovies  cut 
up  fine  26  i  parts,  cloves  and  horse- 
radish each  3J  parts,  white  mustard 
seed  pounded  fine  I  part,  shallots  13^ 
parts,  and  good  vinegar  300  parts. 
Proceed  as  above. 


WASHING   AND   SCOURING.    MANU- 
FACTURE OF  WASHING-BLUE,  ETC. 

To  Wash  Satin,  Silk  Ribbons,  Bro- 
cade, and  Silk  Damask.  Rub  the  mate- 
rials either  with  yelk  of  egg  or  Venetian 
soap,  wash  them  in  tepid  water,  then 
rinse,  and  dry.  .  Now  dissolve  good  gum- 
tragacanth  in  equal  parts  of  wine-vine- 
gar and  spring  water,  and  strain  the 
solution  through  a  cloth ;  it  should  not 
be  too  thick.  Dip  the  fabric  in  this 
solution  so  that  it  is  uniformly  moist- 
ened, then  squeeze  out  the  gum  water, 
and  by  means  of  a  brush  spread  the 
fabric  upon  a  smooth  board  and  let  it 
dry  quickly  in  the  sun  or  near  the 
stove.  But  ribbons  should  be  ironed 
dry. 

To  Wash  Silk  Ribbons  mixed  with 
Gold  and  Silver  Threads.  Before  wash- 
ing brush  the  ribbons  with  honey  water 
to  protect  the  colors.  Then  wash  in  a 
solution  of  beef's  gal  land  soap;  manipu- 
late the  ribbon  with  one  hand  while 
pouring  rain  water  over  it  with  the 
other  hand.  After  washing  dip  them 
in  clear  gum  water,  wrap  them  be- 
tween two  cloths  around  a  mangle 
roller,  and  mangle  them  for  a  short 
time ;  then  fasten  some  weight  to  one 
end  of  the  ribbons  and  hang  them  up 
to  dry. 

To  Wash  Silver  and  Gold  Lace. 
Place  the  lace  in  curdled  milk  for  24 
hours.  Dissolve  shavings  of  some  good 
soap  in  1  quart  of  rain  water,  add  a 
comparatively  large  quantity  of  honey, 
1  beef's  gall,  and  heat  the  whole  for  1 
hour.  In  case  it  is  too  thick  add  rain 


WASHING  AND  SCOUEING. 


363 


water,  so  that  a  thinly-fluid  paste  is 
formed.  Allow  this  to  stand  for  12 
hours,  then  brush  the  paste  over  the 
wet  laces.  Wrap  a  ruoist  cloth  around 
a  mangle  roller,  around  this  the  lace, 
and  around  it  another  moist  cloth. 
The  lace  is  then  mangled,  being  occa- 
sionally dampened  with  rain  water  and 
several  times  brushed  over  with  the 
paste.  Now  soak  gum-tragacanth  in 
water  for  24  hours,  strain  it  through  a 
cloth,  add  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar, 
and,  when  this  is  dissolved  and  the 
solution  has  become  clear,  immerse  the 
laces  in  it ;  then  mangle  them  smooth 
between  2  clean  cloths  and  then  hang 
them  up  to  dry. 

To  Wash  Gold  Laces.  Place  them 
over  night  either  in  urine  or  wine,  and 
then  wash  them  in  the  same  manner  as 
above.  Color  and  gloss  are  restored 
by  heating  in  a  pot  1  pint  each  of  water 
and  whiskey,  to  which  has  been  added 
pulverized  gum- Arabic  and  some 
saffron;  spread  the  laces  upon  a  table 
and  apply  the  solution  uniformly  with 
a  small  brush,  and  then  hang  them  up 
to  dry. 

To  Wash  White  Silk  Crape.  Soak 
over  night  in  a  solution  of  soap  in 
milk,  then  sponge  without  rubbing 
and  lay  it  in  a  solution  of  soap  ahd 
water  for  12  hours,  squeeze  gently,  and 
place  it  between  2  damp  cloths  in  a 
basket.  Put  some  sulphur  in  an  iron 
pot,  and  place  the  latter  in  a  barrel  or 
tall  vessel  covered  with  a  cloth  folded 
4  times.  Place  the  wet  basket  contain- 
ing the  crape  over  the  sulphur,  which  is 
now  ignited  and  allowed  to  burn  some 
time.  The  crape  is  then  taken  out, 
stretched  evenly  over  a  board  covered 
with  cloth,  and  pressed  down  upon  it 
with  a  sponge  dipped  in  white  boiled 
starch. 

To  Wash  White  Gauze.  Place  the 
gauze  between  2  cloths  together  with 
some  fine  shavings  of  Venetian  soap, 
put  all  in  a  tin  dish,  and  pour  luke- 
warm water  over  it;  place  a  cloth 
folded  double  on  top,  load  it  down  with 
a  weight,  and,  when  the  water  has  be- 
come cold,  pour  it  off  and  add  luke- 
warm water,  repeating  this  operation 
several  times.  Now  let  it  stand  over 
night  under  the  pressure  of  the  weight, 
then  rinse  the  gauze  several  times  with 
lukewarm  water.  The  further  treat- 


ment and  sulphuring  is  the  same  as 
given  for  silk  crape. 

Fine  Jfit^lin,  Linen,  and  Batiste  are 
first  soaked  in  soft  water.  Then  boil 
and  skim  1  pound  of  soap,  i  ounce  of 
alum,  and  1  ounce  of  carbonate  of 
potassium  until  a  plastic  mass  is  ob- 
tained, which  is  formed  into  cakes  or 
balls.  Apply  this  to  the  fabric,  rub- 
bing with  the  grain ;  then  squeeze  it 
and  repeat  the  operation  several  times, 
and  finally,  to  prevent  adhering  parti- 
cles of  soap  from  turning  the  fabric 
yellow,  rinse  several  times  in  fresh 
water,  putting  a  few  drops  of  indigo 
solution  in  the  last  rinsing  water.  The 
fabric  is  then  squeezed  out,  beaten  be- 
tween the  hands,  and  then  dried  in  the 
shade. 

To  Wash  Velvet.  Boil,  with  con- 
stant stirring,  2  beef-galls  with  some 
soap  and  honey  in  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  water.  Place  the  velvet  upon  a 
clean  damp  board  and  freely  apply  the 
above  mixture  with  a  rag.  Then  wrap 
the  velvet  around  a  mangling  roller 
and  mangle  it  until  the  dirt  has  disap- 
peared; then  draw  it  through  clean 
water,  mangle  again,  and  then  hang  up. 
When  half  dry  moisten  the  velvet  with 
isinglass  dissolved  in  water,  wrap  it  in 
a  cloth,  mangle  it  until  dry,  and  raise 
the  pile  by  rubbing  with  a  cloth. 

Velvet,  which  has  become  hard  and 
rough  by  rain  or  mud,  is  made  soft  in 
the  following  manner:  Moisten  the 
back  of  the  velvet.  Secure  a  hot  iron 
with  the  flat  smoothing  part  up  and 
draw  the  moist  velvet  across  it.  The 
heat  converts  the  water  into  steam 
which  penetrates  through  the  pile  of 
the  velvet  and  separates  the  tangled 
threads. 

To  Wash  Veils.  White  veils  are 
washed  in  lukewarm  soap  water,  gently 
wrung  out,  rinsed  in  cold  water,  blued, 
starched,  beaten  half  dry  between  the 
hands,  and  then  hung  up  to  dry  en- 
tirely. Black  veils  are  immersed  in 
warm  water  in  which  beef  gall  has 
been  dissolved,  then  rinsed  in  cold 
water,  and  stiffened  with  gum  water, 
beaten  half  dry  between  the  hands, 
and  then  hung  up  until  entirely  dry. 

S-ilk  and  Silk  Fabrics  are  best  washed 
in  tea  water  and  rinsed  clean  in  whiskey 
in  which  some  sugar  has  been  dissolved, 
mangled,  and  ironed  while  still  moist; 


364 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


or  they  are  washed  in  strong  bran  water 
to  which  some  pulverized  alum  has 
been  added ;  or  by  spreading  the  fabric 
upon  a  clean  table,  soaping  it  thor- 
oughly with  a  woollen  rag,  using  luke- 
warm water,  and  rubbing  always  in 
one  direction.  When  the  dirt  is  re- 
moved the  soap  is  washed  off  with  a 
rnge  dipped  in  cold  water.  After 
other  side  of  the  fabric  has  been 
cleansed  in  the  same  manner  it  is  rinsed 
in  cold  water,  spread  out,  and  dried  in 
the  shade.  The  iron  used  for  ironing 
should  be  but  half  warm,  and  paper 
be  laid  between  the  iron  and  the  fabric. 

Embroidered  Fabrics,  or  Muslin, 
Linen,  etc.,  Woven  with  Gold  should 
be  soaked  in  cold  water,  so  as  to  pre- 
vent a  disarrangement  of  the  threads ; 
all  rubbing  and  wringing  must  be 
strictly  avoided.  When  this  has  been 
done  make  suds  of  lukewarm  water 
and  Venetian  soap,  place  the  em- 
broideries in  it,  and  squeeze  them  out. 
Then  place  them  in  fresh  water  and, 
after  4  hours,  squeeze  them  out  and  let 
them  dry.  Then  sew  linen  around  the 
edges  of  each  piece  and  stretch  them  in 
a  frame  for  finishing. 

Silk  Stockings  are  washed  in  warm 
water  with  good  soap,  and  then  rinsed 
in  fresh  water  until  all  the  soap  has 
been  removed.  Then  dissolve  a  piece 
of  litmus  as  large  as  a  hazel-nut  in  1 
quart  of  water  and  draw  the  stockings, 
turned  outside  in,  several  times  through 
the  solution.  Then  hold  the  stockings 
over  sulphur  burning  in  a  pan  filled 
with  hot  coals,  and  let  the  fumes  pass 
through  them.  Then  turn  the  stock- 
ings inside  out,  draw  them  upon  frames, 
smooth  them,  while  still  moist,  with  a 
glass  roller,  and  let  them  dry  in  the 
sun. 

To  Wash  Taffeta.  White  taffeta  is 
soaked  in  soft  water  and  then  washed 
with  wheat  bran  and  Venetian  soap. 
It  is  then  rinsed,  sulphured,  and  fi- 
nally stiffened  with  gum  tragacanth, 
fleabane  seed,  and  Saxony  blue,  then 
mangled  between  two  cloths  and 
lightly  brushed.  By  another  method 
white  taffeta  is  washed  three  times  in  a 
solution  of  4|  ounces  of  Venetian  soap 
in  2  gallons  of  rain  water  prepared  by 
boiling  and  cooling  off  to  lukewarm. 

Slack  Taffeta  is  washed  three  times 
in  a  like  solution  of  Venetian  soap  in 


water  which  has  stood  over  night,  and 
then  stiffened  with  gum-Arabic  and 
fleabane  seed,  and  mangled  and 
ironed.  Another  method  of  washing 
black  taffeta  as  well  as  all  other  black 
silk  fabrics  is  by  rubbing  the  fabric 
with  a  sponge  dipped  in  beer,  mint- 
water,  or  whiskey,  then  mangling  dry 
between  two  cloths,  and  finally  iron- 
ing on  the  wrong  side. 

To  Polish  Gold  and  Silver  Lace.  To 
restore  gold  lace,  spangles,  and  but- 
tons, which  are  worn  so  that  the  white 
ground  shines  through,  treat  If  ounces 
of  shellac  and  12  grains  each  of 
dragon's-blood  and  turmeric  root  with 
strong  alcohol,  and  decant  the  ruby- 
red  colored  solution.  The  objects  to 
be  restored  are  then  brushed  over  with 
some  of  the  color  by  a  camel's-hair 
brush,  and  then  a  hot  flat-iron  is 
passed  over,  so  that  the  objects  shall 
only  be  gently  warmed.  Gold  em- 
broidery is  treated  in  the  same  man- 
ner. Detached  gold  knobs  and  but- 
tons are  fastened  on  a  fork,  brushed 
over  with  the  gold  lac,  and  then  dried 
over  red-hot  coals  with  the  above-men- 
tioned precautions. 

Silver  Lace  or  Embroidery  is  pol- 
ished with  a  powder  obtained  as  fol- 
lows: Alabaster  is  strongly  calcined 
and,  while  hot,  placed  in  corn-whiskey. 
A  white  powder  is  obtained,  which  is 
dried  over  the  flame  of  a  spirit-lamp 
and  placed  in  a  linen  bag.  The  lace 
is  then  dusted  over  with  the  powder 
and  brushed  with  a  velvet  brush. 

To  Wash  Laces.  Cover  an  ordinary 
wine  bottle  with  fine  flannel  and 
stitch  it  firmly  around  the  bottle,  tack 
the  outer  edge  of  the  lace  to  the  flan- 
nel, rolling  it  smoothly  around  the 
bottle,  then  tack  the  inner  edge 
smoothly  down.  Cover  over  the  lace 
with  a  piece  of  very  fine  flannel  or 
muslin,  and  rub  the  whole  gently  with 
clean  suds  made  of  Castile  soap.  If  t  he 
lace  is  very  much  discolored,  fill  the 
bottle  with  hot  water,  place  it  upright 
in  a  sauce-pan  of  suds,  and  let  it  boil 
for  a  few  minutes;  then  place  the  bot- 
tle under  a  running  hydrant,  to  rinse 
the  lace  thoroughly.  Make  some 
starch  about  as  thick  as  arrow-root  for 
an  invalid,  melt  in  it  a  small  quantity 
of  white  wax  and  a  little  loaf-sugar. 
Plunge  the  bottle  2  or  3  times  in  the 


WASHING  AND  SCOURING. 


365 


starch,  pressing  out  the  excess  with 
the  hands;  then  dip  the  bottle  into 
cold  water,  remove  the  outer  covering 
from  the  lace,  fill  the  bottle  with  very 
hot  water,  and  set  it  in  the  sun  to  dry. 
When  nearly  dry  take  it  off  the  bot- 
tle carefully,  pick  it  out  with  the 
fingers  and  lay  it  in  a  cool  place  to 
dry. 

To  Wash  Point  Lace.  Fix  the  lace 
in  a  frame,  draw  it  tight  and  straight, 
make  a  warm  suds  of  Castile  soap  and 
apply  it  gently  to  the  lace  with  a  fine 
brush ;  when  clean  on  one  side  wash 
the  other  in  the  same  manner.  Then 
rinse  by  throwing  clean  water  on  it  in 
which  some  alum  has  been  dissolved. 
Then  make  some  thin  starch,  apply  it 
to  the  wrong  side  of  the  lace,  and, 
when  dry,  iron  it  on  the  same  side,  and 
pick  it  out  with  the  fingers  or  a  bod- 
kin. To  clean  the  lace,  if  not  very 
dirty,  without  washing,  fix  it  in  the 
frame  as  above  and  go  over  it  with 
fine  bread-crumbs,  and,when  done,  dust 
out  the  crumbs. 

To  Whiten  Lace.  Iron  the  lace 
slightly,  then  fold  it,  and  sew  it  in  a 
clean  linen  bag,  and  place  this  for  24 
hours  in  pure  olive  oil.  Then  boil  the 
bag  in  a  solution  of  soap  and  water  for 
15  minutes,  rinse  in  lukewarm  water, 
and  finally  dip  in  water  containing  a 
small  quantity  of  starch.  Then  take 
the  lace  from  the  bag  and  dry  it 
stretched  on  pins. 

To  Cleanse  Feathers.  Take  for 
every  gallon  of  clean  water  1  pound 
of  quicklime,  mix  them  well  together, 
and  when  the  undissolved  lime  is 
precipitated  in  a  fine  powder  pour  off 
the  clear  lime  water  for  use.  Put  the 
feathers  to  be  cleansed  in  another  tub 
and  add  to  them  a  quantity  of  the 
clear  lime  water  sufficient  to  cover  the 
feathers  about  3  inches  when  well 
immersed  and  stirred  about  therein. 
The  feathers  when  thoroughly  moist- 
ened will  sink  down  and  should  re- 
main in  the  lime  water  3  or  4  days, 
after  which  the  foul  liquor  is  drawn 
off,  the  feathers  rinsed  with  clean 
water,  and  then  dried. 

Cleansing  and  Rosing  Salt,  for  Red 
Cloths  which  have  become  dirty  or 
decolorized  by  use,  is  prepared  as  fol- 
lows: Dissolve  in  1000  parts  by  weight 
of  water  32  parts  by  weight  of  sorrel  salt, 


16  of  crystallized  soda,  and  5  of  potash. 
When  all  are  dissolved  add  2  parts  of 
cochineal  and  filter  the  solution. 
Moisten  the  red  woollen  fabrics  and 
brush  them  with  a  hard  brush,  rub- 
bing always  with  the  grain,  until  the 
dirt  is  removed,  and  then  wash  them  in 
pure  water. 

This  renovator  possesses  all  the 
qualities  ascribed  to  it  by  the  inven- 
tor; the  effect  is  quick  and  complete, 
the  red  color  regaining  its  original 


freshness  and  purity.  The  small 
quantity  of  cochineal  in  the  mixture 
exerts  but  little  influence  and  may 
just  as  well  be  left  out. 

To  Wash  Genuine  Pearls.  Scatter 
s-alt  over  the  pearls  laid  on  a  clean 
linen  cloth,  tie  this  together  with  a 
cord,  and  rinse  in  lukewarm  water 
until  all  the  salt  is  dissolved  and 
washed  out;  then  dry  the  pearls  at  an 
ordinary  temperature. 

Dye-starch  and  Preparation  and 
Use  of  Crimson  Dye-starch.  To  dye 
white  dresses  Actus  recommends  a 
dye-starch  of  his  invention,  by  means 
of  which  any  lady  can  dye  her  dress 
with  little  expense  and  trouble.  He 
gives  the  following  directions  for  pre- 
paring crimson  dye-starch  and  how  to 
use  it:  Mix  3  parts  of  fuchsine  into  a 
thick  paste  with  water,  and  dissolve 
in  it  20  parts  of  glycerine  by  constant 
stirring,  which  will  be  done  without 
the  aid  of  alcohol  as  a  solvent.  When 
the  fuchsine  is  dissolved,  and  the  com- 
pound lias  assumed  a  uniform  crimson 
color,  add  with  constant  stirring  150 
parts  of  starch  previously  rubbed 
fine,  spread  the  whole  upon  unsized 
paper,  and  dry  in  the  air.  To  dye  a 
dress  after  it  has  been  washed  prepare 
a  small  quantity  of  the  dye-starch 
with  boiling  water  in  the  same  manner 
as  ordinary  starch,  and  starch  with  it 
the  dress  to  be  dyed.  It  is  then  dried, 
sprinkled,  and  ironed  with  a  hot  tiat- 
iron. 

Washing  with  Water-glass.  This  lias 
been  highly  recommended  of  late  and 
gives  excellent  results.  Soak  the  clothes 
over  night  in  a  solution  of  1  part  of 
water-glass  in  20  to  30  parts  of  water  at 
122°  to  140°  F.  In  the  morning  add 
hot  water  and  manipulate  the  clothes 
with  a  stick,  drain  them  off,  which  will 
remove  nearly  all  the  dirt,  and  a  little 


360 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


rubbing  with  soap  will  complete  the 
work.  It  is  advisable  to  treat  the  clothes 
once  more  with  a  weak  solution  of  water- 
glass  ( 1  part  to  50  of  water  of  a  tempera- 
ture of  113°  to  122°  F.),  and  then  to 
boil  them  in  clean  water.  Clothes 
washed  in  this  manner  are  brilliantly 
wliiu,  require  no  bleaching,  and  besides 
the  process  is  considerably  cheaper 
and  takes  less  time  than  the  ordinary 
one  with  soap  and  water.  Colored 
woollen  fabrics  are  washed  in  a  solu- 
tion of  1  part  of  water-glass  in  50  of 
water  of  a  temperature  of  100°  to 
122°  F. 

Palme's  Process  of  Washing.  Soak 
the  clothes  for  15  minutes  in  clean 
water.  Dissolve  U  ounces  of  washing 
powder  and  7  ounces  of  soap  in  9  gallons 
of  boiling  water.  In  1£  gallons  of  this 
hot  solution  rinse  the  clothes  wrung 
out  from  the  clean  water  and  wring  out 
again.  Then  immerse  them  in  2£  gal* 
Ions  of  the  solution  mixed  with  1  gal- 
lon of  cold  water,  then  in  4£  gallons 
of  the  boiling-hot  solution,  and  rinse 
in  cold  water. 

The  washing  powder  used  consists  of 
30  per  cent,  of  borax,  65  per  cent,  of 
commercial  soda,  and  5  per  cent,  of 
wheat  or  corn-starch. 

New  Wash  Process.  Boil  2  pounds 
of  soap  to  a  paste,  dilute  this  with  6i 
gallons  of  water,  add  1  table-spoonful 
of  spirit  of  turpentine  and  2  table-spoon- 
fuls of  ammonia,  and  beat  the  mixture 
thoroughly.  The  water  must  be  as 
warm  as  the  hand  will  bear.  The  dry 
clothes  are  then  soaked  in  this  for  2 
hours  previously  to  washing  them. 
The  tub  containing  them  must  be  well 
covered.  The  suds  can  be  again  heated, 
and  used  once  more  by  adding  i  table- 
spoonful  of  spirit  of  turpentine  and  1 
table-spoonful  of  ammonia. 

To  Wash  Dresses  of  Fast-colored  Silk. 
I.  Mix  1  quart  of  liquid  ammonia  in  2i 
gallons  of  soft  water  with  sufficient 
soap.  Wash  the  dress  thoroughly  in 
this  solution  and  rinse  it  in  running 
water  if  possible. 

II.  Rub  the  dress  with  yelk  of  egg 
and  wash  it  in  clean  lukewarm  water, 
rinse  in  cold  water,  and  dry  at  an  or- 
dinary temperature.  Soak  for  1 2  hours 
&  ounce  each  of  gum  tragacanth  and 
fleabane  in  water;  then  boil  to  a  thin 
starch,  through  which  draw  the  dress, 


and  iron  it  between  two  cloths  until 
dry. 

To  Make  Washed  Silk  Glossy.  Dis- 
solve 1  ounce  of  gum-Arabic  in  \  gallon 
of  water,  and  add  2  table-spoonfuls  of 
beef's  gall  and  i  ounce  of  fleabane  seed. 
Boil  the  whole  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
and,  when  cold,  spread  a  thin  coat  of  it 
on  the  silk  with  a  sponge,  and  smooth 
with  a  linen  cloth. 

To  Restore  the  Color  of  Fabrics. 
Sponge  the  silk  or  woollen  fabric  with 
a  solution  of  sal-ammoniac  in  half  its 
quantity  of  water.  Then  with  a  piece 
of  the  same  material  rub  the  stains 
until  they  are  dry,  and  the  color  will 
be  restored. 

To  Wash  Pearl  Embroideries.  Boil 
8J  ounces  of  shavings  of  ordinary  soap 
with  1  pound  of  beef's  gall  into  a  uni- 
form mass,  then  add  1  ounce  each  of 
Venetian  turpentine,  honey,  and  pul- 
verized sugar,  stir  together  and  boil  for 
a  few  minutes.  Pour  this  soap  into  a 
dish,  and  when  dry  cut  it  into  cakes. 
To  wash  an  embroidery,  dissolve  as 
much  of  the  soap  as  required  by  boil- 
ing it  in  soft  water,  allow  the  solution 
to  cool,  and  apply  it  with  a  sponge. 

To  Bleach  or  Whiten  Clothes  which 
have  turned  Yellow.  Soak  the  clothes 
in  buttermilk,  allowing  them  to  re- 
main for  some  time,  coarser  articles 
requiring  a  longer  time  than  finer. 
Then  wash  with  soap  in  tepid  water, 
rinse  in  cold  water  and  dry.  Repeat 
the  operation  if  the  first  application  is 
not  entirely  successful.  For  very  fine 
clothes  the  buttermilk  must  not  be  too 
sour. 

Clark's  Wash  for  Carpets.  Solution 
I.  Dissolve  10  parts  of  soap  in  20  of 
water,  and  add  3i  parts  of  soda  and  i 
each  of  liquid  ammonia  and  spirit  of 
wine. 

Solution  II.,  which  is  the  actual 
cleansing  liquid,  consists  of  4  parts  of 
liquid  ammonia  and  3  of  alcohol  di- 
luted with  water. 

The  last  solution  is  first  used,  and 
when  the  dirt  loosened  by  it  has  been 
removed  the  soap  solution  is  applied. 
Carpets  thus  treated  regain  their  original 
colors  in  all  their  freshness,  the  entire 
operation  of  washing  and  drying  a  large 
carpet  requiring  biit  2  hours,  and  the 
carpet  need  not  be  taken  up. 

To  Wash  tit  raw  and  Chip  Hats.    Make 


WASHING  AND  SCOURING. 


367 


a  strong  lather  of  Castile  soap  on  a 
woollen  rag  and  rub  it  on  the  hat  until 
the  dirt  is  removed.  Wash  the  soap  off 
the  hat  with  clean  water.  Then  dry 
with  a  cloth  until  the  hat  is  only 
moderately  moist,  and  finally  place  it 
in  a  sulphuring  barrel  to  be  bleached. 

The  sulphuring  barrel  is  prepared 
as  follows:  Cover  the  bottom  of  a 
barrel  with  stone  or  sheet-iron  and 
ignite  some  sulphur  upon  it.  Sus- 
pend the  hat  for  30  minutes,  so  that  the 
sulphur  fumes  but  not  the  flame  can 
reach  it,  and  cover  the  barrel  tightly. 
The  hat,  when  sufficiently  sulphured, 
is  taken  out  and  made  glossy  by  press- 
ing with  a  warm  flat-iron. 

Experiments  in  Washing  Woollen 
Fabrics.  Opinions  about  washing 
woollen  fabrics  differ  so  widely,  and 
the  receipts  and  directions  given  in 
practical  journals  vary  so  much  and 
are  so  contradictory,  that  we  decided  to 
test  the  matter  thoroughly.  The  most 
varying  degrees  of  heat,  from  the  hot- 
test to  the  coolest  temperature,  were 
made  use  of  in  this  experiment ;  and, 
further,  all  the  recommended  cleansing 
agents,  such  as  soap,  borax,  spirit  of 
sal-ammoniac,  benzine,  and  all  mixt- 
ures of  the  latter.  The  results  were  so 
decidedly  and  distinctly  marked  that 
the  following  may  be  given  as  the 
principal  guiding  points : 

1.  The  suds  used  for  washing  must 
be  as  hot  as  possible. 

2.  To  remove  greasy  impurities,  as 
perspiration,  etc.,  borax  is  of  so  little 
use  that  its  employment  is  sheer  waste ; 
even  pure  soap-suds  is  better,  but  the 
best  of  all  is  soap-suds  with  spirit  of 
sal-ammoniac.      The    latter    actually 
effects  wonders   in  quickly  dissolving 
dirt  on  special  places  in  woollen  under- 
shirts, etc.,  otherwise  hard  to  cleanse, 
and  restores  and  brightens  the  colors. 
On  the  other  hand,  for  washing  white 
woollen   articles,  nothing  is  equal   to 
borax;  soap-suds  with  borax  used  boil- 
ing hot  gives  to  white  woollen  articles 
a  looseness  of  texture  and  a  brilliant 
white  which  they  frequently  do    not 
possess  when  new. 

3.  If  shrinking    is  to  be    entirely 
avoided  and  the  texture  of  the  fabric  is 
to  be  even  looser  than  when  new,  the 
articles  must   be  prepared   for  quick 
drying  by  pressing  them  repeatedly  be- 


tween soft  drilling.  Under  no  circum- 
stances should  woollen  articles  be  dried 
in  the  sun,  as  that  renders  them  hard 
and  close ;  it  is  best  to  dry  them  in  a 
moderate  draught  ot  air,  and  in  winter 
in  a  warm  room,  not  too  close  to  the 
stove. 

Separate  the  white  from  the  colored 
woollens.  For  the  latter  prepare  a  suds 
of  about  2i  ounces  ofyellowsoap(Elaine 
soap)  in  about  2  gallons  of  boiling  soft 
water,  and  divide  in  two  tubs,  in  one 
of  which  add  a  small  tea-spoonful  of 
spirits  of  sal-ammoniac  for  each  quart 
of  suds.  When  the  articles  (only  3  or 
4  pair  of  stockings  or  an  equivalent  at 
one  time)  are  placed  in  the  suds,  they 
must  be  so  hot  that  the  hand  cannot  be 
borne  in  it,  and  the  articles  must  be 
squeezed,  turned,  and  manipulated  with 
clean  wooden  sticks  or  spoons.  They 
are  then  squeezed  out  as  much  as  pos- 
sible, and  brought  into  the  tub  con- 
taining the  other  half  of  the  suds  with- 
out an  addition  of  spirits  of  sal-ammo- 
niac. This  will  be  generally  sufficiently 
cooled  off  to  allow  of  the  articles  being 
thoroughly  squeezed  out,  but  under  no 
circumstances  must  they  be  wrung  out 
with  a  turning  motion.  The  articles, 
to  accelerate  their  drying,  are  now 
pressed  between  3  or  4  soft  dry  cloths, 
until  the  latter  absorb  no  more  moist- 
ure. Then  every  article  is  drawn  into 
the  shape  it  is  to  have;  undershirts,  for 
instance,  being  stretched  in  the  width, 
this  being  still  more  necessary  in  regard 
to  the  sleeves,  as  they  have  a  tendency 
to  become  long  and  narrow.  In  hang- 
ing on  the  line  the  shape  of  the  article 
must  also  be  carefully  taken  into  con- 
sideration ;  jackets  and  undershirts,  for 
instance,  must  be  hung  only  crosswise, 
that  is,  the  collar  to  the  right  and  the 
tail  to  the  left.  In  summer  a  few 
hours  suffice  for  drying. 

For  washing  white  woollen  articles 
add  1  tea-spoonful  of  pulverized  borax 
to  1  quart  of  soap-suds,  and  for  the  rest 
proceed  exactly  as  above.  Should  the 
second  suds  be  found  too  soapy  some 
hot  water  may  be  added.  It  is  of  great 
importance  that,  after  washing  about  3 
sets  of  articles,  the  suds  should  be  re- 
heated, which  is  accomplished  by  add- 
ing to  the  first  from  the  second,  and 
replacing  this  by  fresh.  Even  suds 
which  have  become  almost  black  can 


368 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


be  further  utilized  by  allowing  the  dirt 
to  settle,  then  carefully  pouring  off  the 
suds,  and  using  them  for  the  first  wash- 
ing of  coarse  colored  clothes. 

Any  one  wishing  to  test  the  efficacy 
of  these  methods  should  make  a  trial 
with  articles  not  thickened  by  pre- 
vious washing  in  lukewarm  water,  and, 
if  possible,  new  ones. 

To  Wash  Cotton  and  Muslin  Prints 
Without  Injury  to  the  Colors.  Heat 
soft  water  in  a  copper  boiler  to  such  a 
degree  that  the  hand  can  be  barely 
borne  in  it,  and  pour  in  the  eighth 
part  by  weight  of  the  fabrics  to  be 
washed  of  wheat-bran.  Then  place 
the  articles  in  the  water  and  let  this 
come  to  a  boil,  during  which  the  fab- 
rics should  be  frequently  turned  with 
a  wooden  stick.  Now  let  the  water 
cool  off  sufficiently  to  allow  of  the 
dresses,  etc.,  being  washed  in  it ;  then 
rinse  them  in  soft  water,  and  dry  at  an 
ordinary  temperature.  The  dresses, 
etc.,  are  by  this  process  washed  as 
clean  as  with  soap  without  the  least 
injury  to  the  colors. 

Panama  Essence  for  Cleansing  and 
Washing  Clothes  is  prepared  by  dis- 
solving 15  pounds  of  Marseilles  soap 
and  li  pounds  of  carbonate  of  sodium 
in  25  gallons  of  hot  water,  and  adding 
1  pound  of  extract  of  quillaya  bark. 

This  gives  solution  No.  I.  In  an- 
other vessel  mix  4  gallons  of  beef's 
or  sheep's  gall  with  li  quarts  of  am- 
monia of  22  per  cent. ;  heat  and  skim 
the  mixture,  and,  when  cold,  com- 
pound it  with  4  gallons  of  spirit  of 
wine  of  90  per  cent.  This  gives  so- 
lution No.  II.  For  use  mix  i  part 
of  solution  No.  I.  with  §  of  solu- 
tion No.  II.,  and  compound  the  mixt- 
ure with  a  suitable  quantity  of  aro- 
matic essence. 

Cleansing  Fluid  for  Tissues,  etc. 
The  parts  of  mineral  oils  having  a  low 
boiling  point  are  treated  with  chlorine 
gas  until  a  sample,  after  shaking  with 
alkali,  emits  no  disagreeable  odor. 
The  whole  is  then  treated  with  milk 
of  lime  and  next  with  soda,  or  air  is 
forced  through  it.  It  is  then  distilled, 
and  the  product  passing  over  at  less 
than  212°  F.,  having  a  weak,  agreeable 
odor,  may  be  perfumed. 

Use  of  Tin-salt  for  Removing  Rust- 
stains  from  Clothes.  HiJnnann  has 


made  experiments  to  determine  the 
value  of  tin-salt  for  removing  rust 
stains  from  clothes  as  compared  with 
that  of  the  usual  means,  oxalic  acid 
and  sorrel  salt.  For  this  purpose  he 
prepared  the  following  solutions : 

1  a.   1  part  of  tin-salt  in  10  parts  of  water. 


Ib. 

2  a. 
2b. 
2c. 

3  a. 
3b. 
3c. 


oxalic  acic  in  10 
tin-salt  in  20 
oxalic  acid  in  20 
sorrel  salt  in  20 
tin -salt  in  40 
oxalic  acid  in  40 
sorrel  salt  in  40 


The  rust  stains  to  be  removed  were 
in  old  ironed  towels,  which,  to  all  ap- 
pearance, had  been  in  them  for  some 
time,  and  in  a  condition  as  generally 
found  in  clothes.  Pieces  as  large  as  a 
hand  containing  the  stains  were  cut  out 
of  the  towels,  and  to  prevent  errors  five 
of  such  pieces  placed  in  every  solution, 
care  being  also  taken  to  place  stains  of 
equal  intensity  in  equally  strong  solu- 
tions. All  solutions  were  used  cold. 

The  result  of  the  observations  was  as 
follows : 

In  the  oxalic  acid  solution  even  the 
strongest  stains  disappeared  com- 
pletely in  1  b.  in  about  20 minutes;  in 
2  b.  in  25,  and  in  3  b.  in  30  minutes. 

In  the  sorrel  salt  solutions,  2  c.  and  3 
c.,  the  stains  disappeared  in  about  30 
minutes. 

In  the  stains  treated  with  tin  solu- 
tion only  a  slight  change  was  percept- 
ible in  the  stains,  even  after  an  immer- 
sion of  3£  hours,  and  they  remained 
plainly  visible  after  3  days. 

By  a  completely  saturated  solution 
of  tin-salt  the  rust  stains  were  removed 
after  an  immersion  of  3  days. 

Such  stains  as  had  been  in  the  tin- 
salt  solutions  for  3£  hours,  and  then 
carefully  washed,  disappeared  in  10  to 
15  minutes  after  being  placed  in  the 
oxalic  acid  solutions. 

With  ink  stains  the  result  was  the 
same.  From  these  experiments  the 
conclusion  may  be  drawn  that  tin-salt 
deserves  but  little  recommendation  for 
removing  rust  and  ink  stains. 

Manufacture  of  Washing  Blue. 
Washing  blue  usually  consists  of 
starch  colored  with  Parisian  blue.  Its 
manufacture  presents  no  difficulties 
whatever,  so  that  every  one  after  a 
few  trials  can  prepare  it. 


WASHING  AND  SCOURING. 


369 


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370 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


The  apparatus  required  consists  of  a 
trough  4  feet  long,  1  foot  wide  on  the 
bottom,  and  2  feet  wide  on  the  top,  and 
about  25  to  30  drying  boards  3  feet  long, 
1  foot  wide,  and  1  inch  thick,  and  pro- 
vided on  3  sides  with  small  ledges;  a 
drying  frame  constructed  of  2  ladders  7 
feet  high  with  rounds  li  inches  apart ; 
and  finally  a  barrel  which  can  be 
turned  around  an  axle  passing  through 
the  head  and  bottom.  In  summer  the 
blue  is  dried  in  airy  lofts,  but  in  winter 
in  heated  rooms. 

The  Parisian  blue  must  be  in  the 
form  of  a  paste  and  have  a  consistency 
of  at  least  30  per  cent.  Place  in  the 
trough  20  pounds  each  of  potato  starch 
and  residue  from  the  manufacture  of 
wheat  starch,  both  perfectly  white,  40 
pounds  of  Parisian  blue  in  the  form  of 
paste,  2  pounds  of  indigo-carmine,  and 
alike  quantity  of  gum-Arabic  dissolved 
in  water.  Then  add  sufficient  water 
for  the  whole  to  form  a  compound  of 
somewhat  greater  consistency  than  the 
Parisian  blue.  Knead  this  with  the 
hands  into  a  homogeneous  compound  j 
free  from  lumps,  place  enough  of  this 
upon  the  drying  boards  to  fill  them  ! 
about  half,  distribute  the  mass  uni- 
formly over  their  whole  surface  by 
beating  and  shaking  them,  and  then 
place  them  in  the  drying  frames.  The 
ladders  of  the  latter  are  placed  about  2 
feet  apart  and  connected  on  the  top  by 
cross-pieces,  so  that  they  will  stand  by 
themselves.  The  paste  remains  here 
until  half  dry,  which  in  the  open  air 
will  require  about  2  hours,  but  a 
less  time  in  a  heated  room.  The  half- 
dry  paste  is  then  cut  into  square  pieces. 
This  is  accomplished  with  a  roller  4 
inches  long  on  which  are  arranged  16 
small  knife  blades  at  equal  distance 
from  each  other.  With  this  instru- 
ment the  paste  is  cut  into  equally  wide 
strips  and  then  into  squares,  which  are 
then  entirely  dried.  But,  as  the  product 
in  this  state  would  not  present  a  fine 
appearance,  it  is  polished  by  placing 
30  pounds  of  the  cakes  in  the  mentioned 
barrel  or  drum  together  with  li  to  If 
ounces  of  Parisian  blue  finely  pulver- 
ized. The  barrel  is  revolved  until  the 
cakes  have  acquired  a  uniform  and  fine 
appearance.  The  excess  of  Paris  blue 
and  broken  pieces  is  removed  by  sifting, 
and  the  product  is  ready  for  the  market. 


Liquid  Wash  Blue  is  easily  prepared 
in  the  following  manner:  Pulverize 
8.3  parts  of  solid  indigo  in  a  porcelain 
dish,  and  add  33.^  parts  of  sulphuric 
acid.  Let  it  stand  for  6  hours  with 
frequent  stirring  with  a  wooden  or 
glass  rod,  and  pour  into  a  flask  con- 
taining £  gallon  of  water  not  too  cold. 
Throw  powdered  chalk  into  the  flask 
until  effervescence  ceases,  in  order  to 
remove  the  sulphuric  acid,  which  is  in- 
jurious to  the  clothes.  The  whole  is 
then  allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  a  few 
days,  then  filtered  through  blotting 
paper,  and  can  be  kept  for  years  with- 
out fear  of  spoiling. 

Several  other  Receipts  for  Liquid 
Washing  Blue.  I.  Dissolve  1  part  of 
indigo-carmine  in  10  of  water  and  then 
add  i  of  gum-Arabic. 

II.  Concentrated    Liquid    Washing 
Blue.     Bengal  indigo  2  parts,  fuming 
sulphuric  acid  9,  gum-Arabic  4,  water 
50. 

III.  Ordinary  Liquid  Washing  Blue. 
Dissolve  2  parts  of  indigo  in  9  of  fum- 
ing sulphuric  acid  and  mix  the  solu- 
tion with  350  parts  of  water  and  8  of 
gum-Arabic. 

Washing  Powders.  Washing  Crystal 
is  a  solution  of  borax  and  soda  in 
water. 

Lustrine  Alsacienne  (Starch  Gloss) 
consists  of  spermaceti,  gum-Arabic,  and 
borax  each  If  ounces,  glycerine  4i 
ounces,  distilled  water  H  pints,  and 
some  sweet-scented  essence.  The  mixt- 
ure is  used  with  or  without  an  addition 
of  starch.  If  it  is  to  be  mixed  with 
starch  add  4  spoonfuls  of  lustrine  to  4£ 
ounces  of  boiling  starch. 


WASTE  AND  OFFAL,  UTILIZATION  OF. 

Fabrication  of  Different  Kinds  of 
Lampblack  from  Waste  in  Working 
Coal-tar.  The  oil  last  obtained  in  dis« 
tilling  coal-tar  and  freed  as  much  as 
possible  from  naphthaline  is  burned  in 
a  furnace  of  special  construction  (Figs. 
47  and  48)  for  manufacturing  lamp- 
black. In  the  division  a  of  this  fur- 
nace is  an  iron  plate  which  must  be 
constantly  kept  red  hot.  Immediately 
over  it  is  a  tube  e  through  which  the 
oil  drops  upon  the  plate  where  it  is  de- 
composed, and  the  smoke  (soot)  enters 


WASTE  AND  OFFAL,  UTILIZATION  OF. 


371 


the  chambers  1,  2,  3,  4,  through  small 
apertures/. 

When  the  quantity  of  oil  to  be  de- 
composed is  exhausted,  the  furnace  is 
allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  days  when 


(Fig.  48)  is  used,  in  which  the  pitch 
is  burned,  the  air  being  as  much  ex- 
cluded as  possible.  The  material  is 
thrown  in  through  the  doors  a  a,  the 
smoke  (soot)  passes  through  the  chim- 


Fig.  47. 


Cross-section  of  Furnace  No.  1.  a,  door  with  small  apertures  ;  6,  iron  plate  ;  c,  tube  for  the  oil ;  d} 
windows  or  iron  doors;  /,  apertures  for  vhe  soot ;  g,  fire-place  ;  h,  chimney  for  the  gases;  z, 
chimney  for  the  smoke  ;  k,  evolution  of  the  soot  into  the  chambers  ;  I,  oil  reservoir. 


the  windows  d  in  the  chambers  1,  2,  3, 
4  are  opened.  The  finest  lampblack 
suitable  for  lithographic  purposes  is  in 
No.  4.  No.  3  contains  that  fit  for 
printing  ink,  while  a  coarser  quality  is 
in  No.  2  and  No  1.  The  latter  is  sifted 
and  sold  as  ordinary  lampblack.  The 
calcined  lampblack  used  by  paper 
manufacturers  is  also  made  from  the 
best  quality  obtained  by  this  process. 
The  lampblack  is  firmly  pressed  into 
closed  tubes  of  sheet-iron,  the  covers  of 
which  are  luted  on  with  fine  clay  and 
provided  with  a  small  aperture.  The 
tubes  are  placed  in  a  furnace  and  sub- 
jected to  a  strong  heat,  whereby  the 
empyreumatic  oils  are  expelled  and  the 
lampblack  becomes  inodorous.  The 
tubes,  after  cooling  off  for  a  few  days, 
are  opened  and  the  soot  taken  out. 
This  is  half-calcined  lampblack.  To 
calcine  it  entirely  it  is  again  pressed 
into  tubes  and  once  more  thoroughly 
heated.  The  tubes  are  opened  in  two 
days,  when  the  entirely  calcined  mate- 
rial will  be  obtained  in  compact  pieces. 
Manufacture  of  Lampblack  from 
Asphaltum  Pitch  or  Blacksmiths'  Pitch. 
A  furnace  of  a  different  construction 


ney  b  and  the  flue  g  into  the  chambers 
1,  2,  3,  4,  where  the  soot  is  deposited. 
When  all  the  pitch  has  been  burned, 
the  furnace  is  allowed  to  stand  for  a  few 
days  before  it  is  opened.  The  iron 
doors  d  are  then  slightly  opened  for  the 
admission  of  air,  and  later  on,  when  the 
lampblack  is  entirely  cold,  are  thrown 
wide  open.  The  finest  lampblack  suit- 
able for  the  use  of  manufacturers  of 
leather  and  oil-cloth  will  be  found  in 
chamber  No.  4,  while  the  coarser  qual- 
ity in  the  other  chambers,  after  sifting, 
is  sold  as  ordinary  lampblack.  The 
finest  quality  of  this  may  also  be  con- 
verted into  calcined  lampblack  by  the 
same  process  given  above. 

Description  of  the  Furnace.  It  may 
be  built  of  stone  or  bricks,  but  the  in- 
terior b  must  be  lined  with  strong  iron 
plates.  The  doors  d  are  of  strong  sheet- 
iron,  as  also  the  door  a,  which  is  pro- 
vided with  a  few  apertures  for  the  in- 
troduction of  air  required  for  com- 
bustion. The  flue  g  leads  into  soot 
chambers  1,  2,  3,  4,  arranged  in  the 
same  manner  as  Fig.  47. 

In  regard  to  the  amount  of  lamp- 
black obtained  we  give  the  following 


372 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


statement:  Four  hundred  pounds  of  oil       Manufacture  of  Artificial  Manures 


yield  about  20  pound 
lampblack, 


from  Residues  in  the  Working  of  Coal- 
The  various  sodie  residues  impreg- 


Fig.  48. 


Front  Yiew  of  the  Furnace,   aa,  doors  ;  6,  chimney  ;  c,  flue  leading  to  the  soot  chambers ;  /, 
apertures  for  the  admission  of  air. 


pounds  of  Nos.  3  and  4.  Upon  the  iron 
plate  remains  a  coke-like  residue  which 
must  be  removed,  and  can  be  used  as 
fuel.  Five  hundred  pounds  of  pitch 
yield  about  200  pounds  of  lampblack 
of  all  qualities.  The  coke-like  residue, 
which  must  be  broken  oft'  with  a  ham- 
mer and  chisel,  amounts  to  about  440 
pounds,  and  can  also  be  used  as  fuel. 

Manufacture  of  Various  Kinds  of 
Lampblack  from  the  Resinous  Sodic 
Residues  in  the  Working  of  Coal-tar. 
The  dry  residues,  containing  potash  and 
soda  and  rich  in  oil  and  resin,  obtained 
in  the  various  processes  of  purifying 
and  distilling  crude  coal-tar  oils  *and 
creosote,  can  also  be  burned  to  lamp- 
black in  the  furnace.  The  residues,  to 
make  them  more  inflammable,  are 
mixed  with  some  asphaltum  or  black- 
smiths' pitch.  The  lampblack  formed 
is  also  conducted  into  the  chambers  1, 
2,  3,  4,  and  there  allowed  to  cool.  In 
quality  it  does  not  differ  from  that  pro- 
duced by  burning  blacksmiths'  pitch. 
The  furnace,  after  the  lampblack  has 
been  taken  out,  is  closed  and  the  black 
cinders  containing  soda  and  potash  are 
completely  burned  with  the  aid  of  wood 
until  they  show  a  grayish-white  color. 
The  residues,  when  cold,  are  pulverized 
and  used  in  the  fabrication,  of  manure 
urn!  artificial  guano. 


nated  with  very  finely  powdered  carbon 
obtained  in  purifying  the  crude  light 
and  heavy  coal-tar  oils  are  pulverized, 
the  powder  sifted  and  stored  in  a  dry 
place.  The  lime  remaining  in  the 
filtering  bag  in  preparing  the  caustic 
lye  is  also  thoroughly  dried,  pulverized, 
and  sifted.  The  wood  ash  is  also  sifted 
and  mixed  with  the-above  residues  in 
the  following  proportions:  One  part 
of  sodic  residues,  2  of  caustic  lye  residues, 
and  4  of  sifted  wood-ash.  Upon  this  are 
poured  2  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  residues, 
i.  e.,  residues  obtained  by  treating  the 
crude  oils  with  sulphuric  acid.  The 
mixture,  which  becomes  quite  heated, 
is  thoroughly  worked  with  iron  rakes 
until  it  is  again  entirely  dry.  Now 
take  2  parts  of  bone-flour,  2  of  animal 
charcoal,  and  pour  upon  them  4  parts 
of  acid  residues,  stirring  constantly. 
Next  evaporate,  under  constant  stirring, 
fresh  bullock's  blood  until  it  can  be 
rubbed  to  a  fine  powder.  Pass  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  add  4  parts  of  it  to 
the  above  mixture,  and  finally  3  parts 
of  crude  sulphate  of  ammonium,  and  4 
of  pulverized  pigeon  dung.  Mix  the 
I  whole  thoroughly  and,  to  separate  the 
I  coarser  parts,  pass  it  repeatedly  through 
|  sieves.  This  manure  is  equal  to  guano 
j  in  a!}  respects, 
1  We  give  in  the  following  a  few  simi- 


WASTE  AND  OFFAL,  UTILIZATION  OF. 


373 


lar  compositions:  I.  Sodic  residues  1 
j»art,  caustic  lye  residues  2,  wood-ash  4, 
animal  charcoal  2,  bone^nour  2,  acid 
residues  6,  dry  bullock's  blood  4,  crude 
sulphate  of  ammonium  3,  pigeon's 
dung  4. 

Manure  for  Meadows,  a.  With  Wood- 
ash.  Wood-ash  30  parts,  caustic  lye 
residues  60,  acid  residues  30,  sodic  resi- 
dues 7,  crude  sulphate  of  ammonium  3. 


cium  hydrate,  and  introduce  steam  as 
long  as  the  distillate  passing  over 
smells  of  ammonia.  Then  empty  the 
still,  put  in  fresh  ammomacal  liquor, 
and  proceed  as  before.  The  concen- 
trated aniinoiiiacal  liquor  is  then  neu- 
tralized with  sulphuric  acid  and  filtered, 
whereby  many  lar-like  substances  are 
separated,  and  finally  evaporated  in 
shallow  lead  pans  ^Figs.  4tJ  and  50). 


Fig.  49. 


Ground-plan  of  Evaporating  Furnace,    a,  grate  ;  6,  flues ;  c,  chimney  ;  e,  damper  to  regulate 

the  fire. 


Fig.  50. 

Longitudinal  Section  of  Evaporating  Furnace,  a,  grate  ;  b,  flue  ;  c,  chimney  ;  d,  cover-plates  ; 
e,  sand  ;  /,  lead  pan  for  the  sulphate  of  ammonium  ;  gt  flue  for  the  vapors  escaping  into  the 
chimney  ;  h.  top  vault ;  i,  reservoir  for  ammoniacal  water  ;  k,  escape-pipe  for  the  concentrated 
ammonia  ;  I,  damper  for  regulating  the  fire. 


b.  With  Peat  Ash.  Peat-ash  30  parts, 
lye  residues  60,  acid  residues  30,  sodic 
residues  7,  crude  sulphate  of  ammoni- 
um 3. 

Utilization  of  Ammoniacal  Liquor 
from  Goal-tar.  Bring  the  ammoniacal 
water  gained  in  gas-works  and  in  the 
distillation  of  coal-tar  into  large  cast- 
iron  stills,  add  2  to  4  per  cent,  of  cal- 


As  soon  as  the  mass  begins  to  be  crys- 
talline it  is  drawn  off  through  the 
faucet  k  into  shallow  cast-iron  boilers, 
and  under  constant  stirring  evaporated, 
whereby  many  empyreumatic  oils  es- 
cape, and  the  mass  assumes  a  much 
darker  appearance.  It  is  then  poured 
out  upon  stone  slabs  and  allowed  to 
congeal.  The  product  forms  crude 


374 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


commercial  sulphate  of  ammonium. 
To  prepare  the  p untied  article  from  it, 
itmust  be  redissolved,  filtered  and  again 
evaporated.  The  purified  sulphate  of 
ammonium  is  used  for  the  production 
of  the  liquor  aininonise  of  commerce. 
For  this  purpose  a  mixture  of  equal 
parts  by  weight  of  sulphate  of  ammo- 
nium and  calcium  hydrate  is  placed  in 
a  cast-iron  retort  and  slowly  heated. 
The  developed  gas  is  conducted  through 
a  series  of  VVoulfl  bottles  filled  §  with 
pure  water. 

The  fluid  in  the  first  bottles  generally 
assumes  a  somewhat  yellowish  color, 
while  that  in  the  other  bottles,  in  which 
the  gas  tubes  reach  to  the  bottom  and 
the  ammoniacal  gas  must  pass  through 
the  water  which  becomes  thoroughly 
saturated,  remains  entirely  colorless. 

The  water  absorbs  670  times  its  vol- 
ume of  ammoniacal  gas,  and  the  specific 
gravity  sinks  from  1.0  to  0.780,  but 
liquor  ammonite,  as  a  general  rule, 
has  a  specific  weight  of  only  0.960. 

In  England  the  ammoniacal  liquor 
of  gas  works  is  neutralized  with  hydro- 
chloric acid  in  large  covered  vats,  hav- 
ing a  capacity  of  100,000  to  125,000  gal- 
lons, and  the  mixture  uniformly  mixed 
by  agitating  with  a  stirring  apparatus. 
The  carbonic  and  hydrosulphuric  gases 
which  are  expelled  are,  on  account  of  the 
bad  smell  of  the  latter  and  its  unwhole- 
someness,  conveyed  through  pipes  with 
which  the  vats  are  provided  into  a 
furnace  where  the  hydrosulphuric  acid 
is  burned,  forming  water  and  sulphurous 
acid.  After  a  few  days,  when  the  tarry 
constituents  and  the  separated  sulphur 
have  settled,  the  fluid  is  drawn  off  into 
lead  pans  resting  upon  iron  plates. 
The  latter  are  laid  upon  sand  over  a 
heated  flue,  by  which  the  sand,  plates, 
and  pans  are  uniformly  heated.  The 
ammoniacal  liquor  is  exactly  neutral- 
ized with  milk  of  lime  or  concentrated 
liquor  ammonise  and  then  evaporated, 
whereby  many  tarry  constituents  and 
volatile  oil,  as  impure  benzole,  etc.,  are 
separated.  The  fluid,  as  soon  as  it  has 
obtained  a  specific  gravity  of  1.25  to 
1.30,  is  run  off  through  large  filters  into 
special  crystallizing  vats,  which  are  so 
placed  that  the  mother-lye  can  run 
back  into  the  evaporating  pans. 

After  about  8  days  crystallization  is' 
so  far  progressed  that  the  mother-lye  I 


can  be  drawn  off  and  the  crystals  formed 
placed  upon  large  linen  filters  to 
drain  off.  The  mass  when  nearly  dry 
is  entirely  dried  upon  cork  hurdles,  and 
forms  the  crude  sal-ammoniac,  having 
a  yellowish-gray  appearance.  This 
crude  product  is  further  purified  by 
sublimation.  For  this  purpose  the 
crystals  are  heated  in  a  cylindrical  iron 
boiler  covered  with  an  iron  dome  lined 
with  fire-clay,  and  provided  in  the 
centre  with  a  small  aperture  closed  by 
an  iron  rod,  which  is  removed  during 
the  operation  to  allow  the  non-condens- 
able vapors  to  escape.  The  crude  sal- 
ammoniac  rises  in  vapor  below  a  red 
heat,  and  condenses  upon  the  dome  in 
the  form  of  the  fibrous  cake  known  as 
sal-ammoniac.  The  sublimation  re- 
quires 5  to  8  days.  A  boiler  in  which 
1000  pounds  of  crude  sal-ammoniac  can 
be  sublimated  at  one  time  has  a  diam- 
eter of  3  to  6  feet.  But  as  this  sal- 
ammoniac  generally  contains  some 
empyreumatic  substances,  it  is  redis- 
solved  in  water  and  treated  with  steam, 
whereby  all  volatile  foreign  substances 
are  removed.  The  hot  fluid  is  then 
filtered  through  fresh  calcined  animal 
charcoal,  again  evaporated  in  lead  pans, 
and  allowed  to  crystallize.  The  product 
obtained  is  perfectly  white  and  inodor- 
ous. 

Ammonia,  Tar,  and  Other  Products 
of  Distillation  from  the  Gases  of  Coke- 
ovens.  To  preserve  the  gases  de- 
veloped in  the  coke-ovens  r  (Fig.  51) 
from  decomposition,  a  fine  jet  of  steam 
is  forced  towards  them  in  the  absorbing 
pipe  a.  A  second  jet  of  steam  may 
also  be  conducted  from  the  lower  to  the 
upper  part  of  the  pipe.  With  the  as- 
sistance of  these  two  jets  the  pressure 
and  draught  in  the  oven  are  regulated. 
From  the  absorbing  pipes  the  gases 
pass  into  a  spacious  channel  e,  the  top 
of  which  /  is  cooled  with  ammoniacal 
liquor.  A  strong  exhauster  g  sucks  the 
gases  from  this,  and  blows  them  into  a 
second  channel  A,  nearly  as  wTide  as  e, 
placed  above  the  cooling  water  of  the 
first  channel,  and  also  cooled  on  top  by 
ammoniacal  liquor  i.  From  here  the 
gases  pass  into  a  large  condenser  k,  the 
pipes  of  which  are  kept  cool  by  means 
of  water,  flowing  towards  the  gases. 
The  gases  after  passing  through  sev- 
eral systems  of  pipes,  the  cross  section 


WASTE  AND  OFFAL,  UTILIZATION  OF.  375 

of  which  becomes  smaller  in  accord-  [  the  compound  contains  either  phos- 
ance  with  the  process  of  cooling,  are  phoric  acid  or  superphosphate  of  lime 
finally  forced  through  dilute  sulphuric  The  acid  is  expelled  by  boiling  and 
acid  into  the  lower  chambers,  where  the  residual  filtered. 


lig.  51,  a. 


Fig.  51,  b. 

they  are  deprived  of  the  last  traces  of 
condensable  admixtures. 

After  the  gases  have  left  the  con- 
deuser  they  can  be  used  in  any  man- 
ner desired.  The  solution  of  sulphate 
of  ammonium  is  allowed  to  stand  for  a 
few  days  in  order  to  separate  the  tar 
and  oils.  It  is  then  pumped  into  i 
and  /,  where  as  mentioned  it  is  used 
for  condensing  the  gases,  and  is  at  the 
same  time  evaporated. 

To  Regain  Hydrochloric  Acid  used 
in  the  Manufacture  of  Gelatine  from 
Bones.  The  bones  are  treated,  not 
with  hydrochloric  acid  alone,  but  with 
a  mixture  of  this  with  sulphuric  acid. 
Of  the  latter  so  much  is  added  that 


Process  of  Ptwlncing  Tartrate  of 
Calcium  and  X/tin'tof  Wine  from  Wine- 
lees,  The  thickly  fluid  mass  remain- 
ing in  the  fermenting  tuns  after  fer- 
mentation and  drawing  off  of  the  clear 
wine,  and  the  press-cakes  remaining  in 
the  press-bags  in  case  the  lees  are 
pressed  out,  are  used  for  gaining  tar- 
trate  of  calcium  and  spirit  of  wine.  The 
pure  lees  contain  3  to  5  per  cent,  of 
pure  alcohol  and  2  to  3  per  cent,  of 
tartrates,  while  the  pressed  cakes  yield 
only  1  to  2  per  cent,  of  alcohol,  but  4 
to  6  per  cent,  of  tartrate  of  calcium.  The 
gaining  of  alcohol  is  the  first  operation, 
for  which  any  ordinary  liquor  still 
may  be  used,  the  product  being  alcohol 
of  85  to  90  per  cent.  Tralles.  The 
thickly  fluid  lees  are  put  in  the  still 
and  distilled  as  long  as  alcohol  is 
obtained,  but  the  pressed  cakes  must 
first  be  intimately  mixed  with  cold 
water,  12  gallons  to  200  pounds  of  lees. 
After  distillation  the  boiling  hot  resi- 
due is  drawn  from  the  still  into  a 
wooden  vat,  and  compounded  with  2 
to  3  per  cent,  of  hydrochloric  or  sul- 
phuric acid  to  every  20  gallons.  The 
mass  thus  treated  is  kept  boiling  for 
half  an  hour  longer,  being  constantly 
stirred.  The  residue  is  then  left 
standing  quietly  for  18  to  20  hours,  to 
allow  the  lees  "to  settle.  The  nearly 


376 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


clear  fluid  containing  in  solution  all 
the  tartrates  is,  in  order  to  gain  the  tar- 
trate  of  calcium,  drawn  off  into  another 
vat  and  compounded,  under  constant 
stirring,  with  elutriated  carbonate  of 
calcium  until  the  acid  is  completely  neu- 
tralized, whereby  the  tartrate  of  calcium 
formed  is  precipitated.  The  whole  is 
then  allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  5 
hours,  when  the  tartrate  of  calcium  is 
separated  by  drawing  off  the  fluid 
standing  over  it.  The  product  thus 
obtained  is  especially  adapted  for  the 
fabrication  of  tartaric  acid,  tartrates  of 
potassium,  sodium,  etc.,  and  is  a  perfect 
substitute  for  crude  tartar. 

Process  of  Producing  White  or  Blatk 
Pigment  from  the  Clarifying  /Slime  in 
Sugar  Houses.  The  slime  is  dried  and 
calcined  in  retorts,  under  exclusion  of 
air,  and  then  cooled  in  a  well-closed 
vessel.  To  obtain  a  white  pigment 
admit  air  to  the  calcined  mass. 

Process  of  Working  Fecal  Substances 
in  a  Rarefied  Space,  a,  b}  d  (Fig.  52) 
are  the  saturating  reservoirs  in  which 


the  injector  into  the  column  apparatus 
B,  and  be  used  for  warming  the  fecal 
substances.  According  to  another 
method  the  injector  placed  on  the 
reservoir  h  creates  a  vacuum  in  the 
column  apparatus  B  by  means  of  the 
suction  pipe  F,  and  blows  the  ammo- 
niacal  vapors  to  h,  where  they  are 
absorbed. 

Sulphur,  Sulphuric  Acid,  etc.,  from 
Gas-lime  may  be  obtained  by  heating 
the  lime  to  300°  F.  in  a  closed  retort, 
and  passing  steam  at  600°  F.  over  it, 
evolving  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  which 
passes  to  a  leaden  chamber,  and  is 
there  supplied  with  air  and  ignited  to 
produce  sulphurous  acid  ;  it  is  then 
mixed  with  nitric  acid  vapors,  when 
the  reaction  produces  sulphuric  acid. 
The  gas-lime  is  then  mixed  with  clay, 
loam,  or  sand  and  subjected  to  heat, 
when  the  silicate  or  aluminium  unites 
with  the  lime  and  with  oxygen,  forming 
silicate  of  calcium,  etc.,  and  liberating 
the  sulphur.  To  produce  the  sulphide 
of  sodium  or  potassium  the  gas-lime, 


Fig.  52. 


a  partial  vacuum  is  produced  by  means 
of  injectors.  The  air  is  also  rarefied  in 
the  column  apparatus  B,  in  which  the 
fecal  substances  are  laid  on  plates  situ- 
ated above  each  other.  The  ammoniacal 
gases  in  the  reservoirs  a,  b,  d,  in  dis- 
tilling, in  consequence  of  this  pass  over 
much  more  quickly  and  are  less  heated. 
The  steam  used  in  creating  a  vacuum  can 
be  passed  through  the  blast-pipe  G  of 


etc.,  should  be  mixed  with  caustic 
soda  or  potash,  and  allowed  to  stand 
until  the  reaction  takes  place. 

Recovering  Fat  and  Color  from  Waste 
Wash  Liquors.  Treat  the 'waste  soap 
liquor  with  a  solution  of  muriate  of 
lime,  and  add  milk  of  lime  until  free 
lime  remains  in  the  mixture.  After 
mixing  thoroughly,  and  allowing  to 
settle,  the  supernatant  liquor  is  drawn 


WASTE  AND  OFFAL,  UTILIZATION  OP 


377 


off.  The  precipitate  containing  the 
fatty  and  coloring  matters  is  then 
treated  with  sufficient  muriatic  acid  to 
decompose  the  fatty  but  not  the  color- 
ing matter.  The  whole  is  then 
strained  through  flannel,  and  the  fatty 
and  coloring  matters  left  on  the  strainer 
are  heated,  to  melt  and  agglutinate  the 
colored  fatty  substance,  then  cooled 
and  pressed  in  bags  to  remove  any 
watery  solutions  left  by  the  first  strain- 
ing. "The  substance  removed  from  the 
bag  may  be  further  heated  to  remove 
any  remaining  water,  and  the  color 
combined  with  the  fat  may  be  sepa- 
rated by  heat  and  pressure,  or  by  treat- 
ment with  hydro-carbons  as  a  solvent. 
Utilization  of  Waste  Wash  Liquors 
from,  Wool  Manufactories.  Compound 
the  waste  soap  liquor  with  a  mixture 
of  44  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid  of  66° 
.  B.,  132  pounds  of  the  same  acid  of  53° 
B.,  and  44  pounds  of  hydrochloric  acid 
of  22°  B.  The  sulphuric  acid  of  66° 
B.  unites  with  the  alkalies  and  colors 
the  liquor,  which  assumes  a  milky  ap- 
pearance, while  the  acid  of  53°  B. 
liberates  the  fatty  substances,  the 
hydrochloric  acid  completing  the  de- 
composition and  neutralizing  the  liquor, 
in  which  will  then  be  found  small 
lumps  of  fat  of  the  size  of  pin-heads. 
These  small  lumps  rise  to  the  surface 
and  form  a  cake  of  fat  floating  thereon. 
This  is  separated  from  the  liquor,  heated 
in  a  boiler,  and  then  mixed  with  saw- 
dust in  the  proportion  of  25  gallons  of 
the  latter  to  400  pounds  of  fat.  The 
mass  is  then  cooled,  pressed  in  a  hydrau- 
lic press,  and  the  oil  running  off  allowed 
to  settle,  and  is  then  decanted.  The 
oil  thus  gained  is  claimed  to  be  just  as 
good  as  if  it  had  never  been  used. 

To  Cleanse  Woollen  Waste.  Soak  the 
waste  in  cold  urine  for  1  to  6  days,  then 
place  it  in  a  basket  to  drain  off.  Now 
place  the  wool  for  4  to  6  days  in  a  vat 
containing  fulling  liquor  in  which  2 
pounds  of  soda  to  every  20  pounds  of 
waste  have  been  dissolved ;  then  wish 
with  cold  water  and  dry.  The  waste 
will  have  the  appearance  of  pure  wool 
and  can  be  used  as  such. 

Utilization  of  Waste  of  Sheep  Wool. 
Comminute  the  waste  to  a  length  of  2J 
inches,  and  soak  it  in  quite  hot  water 
for  3  days.  Then  free  the  waste  from 
the  greater  part  of  the  water  and  bring  it 


while  still  moist  upon  a  close  and  fine 
carding  engine. 

To  .Regain  Indigo  from  old  Colors 
and  Residues  of  Colors.  Put  85  to  100 
pounds  of  residues  of  colors  in  a  vat  or 
boiler  having  a  capacity  of  50  gallons, 
add  30  gallons  of  water,  and  boil  the 
whoJe  J  hour.  Then  add  gradually  a 
mixture  of  10  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid 
and  2i  gallons  of  water,  and  let  the 
whole  boil  until  no  more  sulphurous 
acid  is  developed.  Then  pour  the 
liquor  into  a  large  wooden  vat  with 
water,  wash  the  indigo  by  decantation 
until  the  water  shows  no  more  acidity, 
and  throw  the  slime  upon  a  filter.  The 
paste,  after  the  percentage  of  indigo 
has  been  determined,  can  be  used  at 
once. 

Production  of  Cyanide  of  Potassium. 
Ammonia,  Tar,  and  Gas  from  JVitro- 
geneous  Organic  Substances.  Leather 
waste,  blood,  wool,  hair,  etc.,  are  satu- 
rated with  a  solution  of  potash  and 
then  dried.  The  mass  is  then  heated 
in  retorts,  but  not  to  the  melting  point. 
Ammonia,  gas,  and  tar  are  caught  up 
in  the  usual  manner.  The  residue  con- 
tains cyanide  and  cyanate  of  potassium, 
sulphocyanide  of  potassium,  calcium 
carbonate,  potassium  hydrate,  potas- 
sium sulphide,  and  carbon.  In  the 
presence  of  metallic  iron  or  ferrous 
oxide  the  cyanide  of  potassium  is  con- 
verted into  ferrocyanide  of  potassium  by 
lixiviation.  After  separating  this  the 
solution  may  again  serve  for  impregnat- 
ing nitrogeneous  substances.  The  potas- 
sium hydrate  present  is  converted  into 
carbonate  by  treating  the  solution  with 
carbonic  acid.  In  case  the  raw  mate- 
rials are  contaminated  with  sand  it  is 
removed  by  washing  with  potash-lye. 

To  Restore  Rubber  Corks  which  have 
become  hard  digest  them  for  10  days  in 
a  5  per  cent,  solution  of  soda-lye  at 
100°  to  120°  F.,  then  wash  them  and 
scrape  off"  the  outer  layer  which  has  be- 
come very  soft  with  a  dull  knife  until 
nothing  more  can  be  scraped  off.  Then 
wash  the  corks  once  more  with  warm 
water,  and  they  are  again  fit  for  use. 

Process  of  Gaining  the  Volatile  Prod- 
ucts Developed  in  Roasting  Coffee  and 
their  Utilization.  The  volatile  products 
developed  in  roasting  coffee,  which  may 
amoiint  to  as  much  as  25  per  cent,  or 
the  weight  of  the  coffee,  are  condensed 


378 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


in  a  condenser.  The  resulting  fluid  is 
used  either  by  itself  or,  after  previous 
evaporation,  in  the  manufacture  of 
coffee  substitutes,  or  for  improving 
solid  or  fluid  coffee  extracts. 


WATER-GLASS  (SOLUBLE  GLASS)  AND 
ITS  USES. 

Water-glass  comes  into  commerce  in 
the  form  of  a  thickly  fluid  and  tough 
mass,  obtained  by  fusing  together 
quartz ,  sand  with  soda  and  less  fre- 
quently with  potash. 

It  is  actually  a  glass,  distinguished 
from  other  varieties  by  being  easily 
soluble  in  water. 

The  solution  possesses  an  alkaline 
taste,  and  on  exposure  to  air  is  gradu- 
ally converted  into  a  gelatinous,  trans- 
parent mass,  which  finally  becomes 
entirely  hard.  This  phenomenon  is 
caused  by  the  expulsion  of  the  silicic 
acid  from  the  water-glass  by  the  car- 
bonic acid  in  the  air,  thus  forming  a 
gelatinous  mass  of  hydrated  silicic 
acid.  The  article  must  therefore 
always  be  kept  in  hermetically  closed 
vessels.  Glass  stoppers  must  not  be 
used,  as  they  are  cemented  so  tightly 
to  the  neck  of  the  vessel  that  they  can- 
not be  removed  without  the  greatest 
difficulty. 

Four  varieties  of  water-glass  are 
known  in  commerce:  Potash  water- 
glass,  soda  water-glass,  compound  wa- 
ter-glass, and  fixing  water-glass. 

Preparation  of  Potash  Water-glass. 
Mix  15  parts  of  pure  quartz-sand  with 
10  of  potassium  carbonate  and  1  of 
charcoal  powder,  and  fuse  the  mixture 
in  a  crucible.  The  contents  of  the 
crucible,  when  cold,  is  taken  out,  pul- 
verized, and  exposed  to  the  air,  being 
frequently  stirred  during  the  time. 
The  powder  is  then  several  times 
washed  with  cold  water,  and  then 
boiled  with  5  parts  of  water  until  all 
is  completely  dissolved.  The  solution 
is  then  filtered  and  evaporated  to  a 
specific  gravity  of  1.25.  In  this  man- 
ner a  sticky,  syrupy  liquid  is  obtained 
which,  on  exposure  to  the  air,  dries  to 
a  transparent  glass. 

Another  receipt:  Quartz  sand  15 
parts,  potash  5,  and  anhydrous  soda  4. 
It  is  prepared  as  above. 


Preparation  of  Water-glass  from  In- 
fusorial Earth.  Liebig  first  drew  atten- 
tion to  infusorial  earth  as  a  valuable  ma- 
terial for  preparing  water-glass.  By 
treating  24  parts  of  infusorial  earth  with 
72.6  of  soda-lye  of  1.135  specific  gravity 
46  parts  of  an  excellent  gelatinous  com- 
pound are  obtained  which  consist  of 
58.5  per  cent,  of  dry  potash  water-glass 
and  41.5  per  cent,  of  water.  The  lye 
used  in  preparing  it  is  obtained  by  dis- 
solving 74.5  parts  of  calcined  soda  in  5 
times  the  quantity  of  water,  compound- 
ing the  solution  with  56  parts  of  dry, 
slaked  lime,  and  evaporating  the  com- 
pound to  1.5  specific  gravity.  By  add- 
ing to  this  lye  120  parts  of  infusorial 
earth  water-glass  is  obtained.  By  tak- 
ing less  infusorial  earth  a  very  strongly 
alkaline  water-glass  is  the  result  which, 
on  exposure  to  the  air,  deliquesces  very 
easily. 

By  using  120  parts  of  infusorial  earth 
to  74.5  of  soda  8.62  to  8.94  ounces  of 
gelatinous  water-glass  are  obtained, 
which  contains : 

Dry  water-glass 47  per  cent. 

Water 53    "      " 

100 

The  dry  water-glass  contains : 

Silicic  acid 73  per  cent. 

Soda 27    "     " 

100 

Preparation  of  Soda  Water-glass.  I. 
Mix  15  parts  of  fine  quartz-sand  with  8 
of  sodium  carbonate  and  1  of  wood 
charcoal  powder.  The  process  is  the 
same  as  given  for  potash  water-glass. 

II.  Mix  45  parts  of  quartz  sand,  23 
of  anhydrous  sodium  carbonate,  and  3 
of  wood  charcoal  powder.    This  mixt- 
ure is  easier  to  fuse. 

III.  Water-glass  may  also  be    pre- 
pared from  1  part  of  finely-pulverized 
quartz  and  2  of  crystallized  soda. 

IV.  Buchner  prepares    soda   water- 
glass  with  the  assistance  of  Glauber's 
salt,  using  the  following  proportions: 
Quartz    finely    pulverized    100    parts, 
anhydrous  Glauber's  salt  60,  and  pul- 
verized wood  charcoal  15  to  20  parts. 
By  this  process  a  solution  in  water  is 
obtained  which  is  more  opalescent  than 
potash  water-glass. 

Preparation   of    Compound    Water- 


WATER-GLASS   AND  ITS   USES. 


379 


glass.  This  can  be  obtained  either  by 
mixing  3  parts  of  concentrated  potash 
water-glass  and  2  of  concentrated  soda 
water-glass;  or  by  fusing  together: 
Quartz  100  parts,  purified  potash  28, 
neutral  anhydrous  sodium  carbonate 
22,  and  pulverized  wood  charcoal  6. 
The  rest  of  the  process  is  the  same  as 
given  for  potash  water-glass. 

Preparation  of  Fixing  Water-glass. 
This  is  prepared  by  fusing  together  3 
parts  of  pure  anhydrous  sodium  car- 
bonate with  2  of  pulverized  quartz,  and 
making  of  this  a  concentrated  solution, 
1  part  of  which  is  mixed  with  4  to  5  of 
concentrated  potash  water-glass  com- 
pletely saturated  with  silica. 

In  Kuhlmann's  water-glass  factory 
at  Lille  liquid  water-glass  is  prepared 
by  treating  pulverized  flint  in  iron 
boilers,  under  a  pressure  of  7  to  8  at- 
mospheres, with  a  strong  solution  of 
hydrate  of  soda. 

Water-glass  as  a  Substitute  for  Cow- 
dung  for  Fixing  Alumina  and  Iron 
Mordants  on  Cotton-prints,  Linen,  etc. 
The  cotton  and  linen  fabrics,  after 
hanging  three  days  to  allow  of  a  partial 
evaporation  of  the  acetic  acid  and  its 
conversion  into  basic  salts,  are  drawn 
through  a  roller-box  containing  a  solu- 
tion of  15  parts  of  sodium  silicate  in 
4500  parts  of  water ;  they  are  then 
washed  and  passed  through  a  bath  of 
cow-dung. 

But  the  manufacturers  experience 
great  difficulty  with  this  process  on 
account  of  the  sodium  silicate,  which 
generally  contains  some  caustic  alkali, 
and  attacks  the  alumina  mordant  too 
strongly  for  alazarine,  while  the  iron 
mordant  used  remains  untouched.  For 
this  reason  Higgins  proposed  calcium 
silicate,  which  was  found  to  answer  the 
purpose  very  satisfactorily.  It  is  pre- 
pared as  follows :  Melt  in  a  furnace  a 
mixture  of  quartz  powder  and  calcined 
soda,  so  that  the  resulting  water-glass 
consists  of  2  equivalents  of  silica  and  1 
equivalent  of  soda:  dissolve  this  in  suf- 
ficient water  for  the  solution  to  show 
30°  B.  Then  prepare  an  aqueous  solu- 
tion of  chloride  of  calcium  of  30°  B. 
The  mixture  used  for  cleansing  the 
fabrics  printed  with  bases  consists  of  2 
parts  of  a  solution  of  water-glass  of  30° 
B.,  obtained  as  given  above,  2  parts  of 
a  solution  of  chloride  of  calcium  of  30° 


B.,  and  1200  parts  of  water.  In  mixing 
a  precipitate  of  calcium  bisilicate  is 
formed,  which  is  held  in  suspension  in 
the  fluid.  The  solution  contains  also 
chloride  of  calcium,  but  the  calcium 
bisilicate  is  the  effective  part  in  passing 
the  fabrics  printed  with  mordants 
through  the  bath.  This  cleansing  bath 
takes  the  place  of  two  of  cow-dung.  A 
part  of  the  silicic  acid  in  the  calcium 
bisilicate  combines  with  the  alumina  or 
iron  mordant  to  aluminium  silicate  or 
iron  silicate,  both  giving  great  in- 
tensity and  constancy  to  the  colors  to 
be  produced. 

Use  of  Soda  Water-glass  for  Protect- 
ing White  Colors  in  Printing  Fabrics. 
If  white  figures  are  to  be  produced 
under  a  catechu  brown  ground  color, 
neutral  sodium  silicate  furnishes  an  ex- 
cellent protection.  It  is  accomplished 
by  printing  upon  cotton  fabrics 
bleached  white  with  a  solution  of  sodi- 
um silicate.  The  places,  when  dry, 
appear  like  coated  with  a  glass  varnish 
which  prevents  the  catechu  color  from 
penetrating. 

Water-glass  for  Silicifuing  Stones. 
By  dissolving  pulverized  chalk  in 
water-glass  a  paste  is  formed  which 
hardens  slowly  in  the  air,  and  becomes 
so  hard  that  jt  is  well  adapted  for  re- 
pairing monuments  and  manufacturing 
mouldings. 

Limestone  dipped  several  times  in  a 
solution  of  water-glass  and  then  ex- 
posed to  the  air  acquires  a  very  smooth 
surface  and  becomes  very  hard.  It  is 
also  claimed  that  stones  prepared  with 
water-glass  are  suitable  for  lithographic 
purposes. 

Water-glass  as  a  Bleaching  Agent. 
If.  Grothe,  who  has  made  many  exper- 
iments with  water-glass  in  large  bleach- 
cries,  pronounces  it  superior  to  soda  for 
bleaching  purposes.  Even  such  mate- 
rials as  jute  yarns  become  brilliantly 
white  in  a  short  time  by  subjecting 
them  to  the  following  process:  Place 
the  yarns  for  15  to  20  minutes  in  a  hot 
solution  of  3  to  4  parts  of  water-glass  in 
50  parts  of  water,  and  turn  them  several 
times  with  a  stick.  They  are  first 
rinsed  in  hot  but  not  boiling  water,  and 
next  in  cold,  and  then  placed  in  a  weak 
chlorine-bath ,  and  finally  in  an  acid- 
bath.  Jute  bleached  in  this  manner 
can  be  used  not  only  as  fine  material 


380 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


for  paper  but  also  for  fine  white  textile 
fabrics.  Instead  of  boiling  hemp  and 
cotton  yarns  for  6  to  8  hours  in  strong 
solution  of  soda,  it  is  only  necessary  to 
work  them  for  10  to  15  minutes  in  a 
very  hot  bath  of  water-glass.  For  100 
parts  of  flax-yarn  12  to  15  parts  of 
water-glass  are  required,  which  cost  30 
per  cent,  less  than  the  10  parts  of  soda 
of  90  per  cent,  generally  used.  The 
yarn,  after  being  taken  from  the  water- 
glass  bath,  must  be  rinsed  in  hot  water 
and  then  in  cold,  and  is  finally  placed 
in  the  ordinary  chlorine  and  acid-baths. 
Linen  and  cotton  fabrics  cannot  be 
bleached  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
yarns,  as  the  si/ing,  consisting  of  starch, 
glue,  gum,  etc.,  must  first  be  removed 
by  boiling  in  milk  of  lime ;  but  when 
this  has  been  done  bleaching  is  accom- 
plished decidedly  quicker  and  cheaper 
with  water-glass  than  with  soda. 

For  Finishing  Linen  and  Cotton 
Goods  water-glass  can  be  advantage- 
ously used  in  place  of  China  clay.  It 
has  the  advantage  of  being  far  whiter 
and  forming  a  chemical  combination  in 
the  finest  fibres  of  the  fabric.  To  pro- 
duce a  precipitate  the  linen  or  cotton 
fabric  is  first  passed  through  a  hot  solu- 
tion of  alum,  and  then  through  a  hot 
bath  of  water-glass,  to  which  has  been 
added  a  small  quantity  of  glycerine. 
The  fabric  is  then  passed  through  a 
weak  starch-bath,  and  finally  through 
warm  rollers. 

Potash  Water-glass  as  a  Binding  and 
Fixing  Medium  for  Ground  Colors  on 
Cotton  Goods.  For  fixing  ultramarine 
potash  water-glass  is  better  for  printing 
than  soda  water-glass ;  but  for  all  other 
printing  colors  the  latter  is  the  best. 

The  printing  color  is. prepared  by 
grinding  ultramarine  very  fine  in  a 
concentrated  solution  of  potash  water- 
glass,  then  pressing  through  a  sieve  or 
cloth,  and  printing  on  the  cloth  with 
the  cylinder  printing-machine.  The 
fabric*  is  then  hung  up  in  the  air  for  a 
few  days  to  allow  the  ultramarine  to 
combine  with  the  silicic  acid  upon  the 
fibres  of  the  fabric,  and  the  potash  is 
then  removed  by  washing.  Fabrics 
printed  with  ultramarine  prepared  as 
above  and  dried  in  the  air  may  also  be 
drawn  through  a  cold  and  very 
weak  bath  of  alum  or  vinegar.  The 
potash  water-glass  is  thereby  partly 


decomposed  and  the  ground  color  in- 
timately combined  with  the  cotton 
fibre.  Rinse  the  fabric  in  running 
water  and  then  dry  it.  Hydrochloric 
acid  destroys  the  ultramarine. 

Potash  water-glass  is  a  much  cheaper 
material  for  printing  with  ultramarine 
than  albumen,  which  passes  quickly 
into  putrefaction. 

For  Light  Blue  Ultramarine  Colors 
bleached  potash  water-glass  is  used, 
which  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner 
as  soda  water-glass. 

Other  colors  are  mechanically  fixed 
upon  the  fibre  of  cotton  fabrics  by 
grinding  them  in  neutral  water-glass 
and  proceeding  in  the  same  manner  as 
given  for  ultramarine. 

Violet  is  obtained  by  mixing  blue 
ultramarine  and  red  carmine  or  cin- 
nabar with  liquid  neutral  water-glass. 

Different  green  tints  by  mixing 
chrome-green,  Schweinfurth  green,  or 
green  carmine  with  liquid  neutral 
glass. 

Yellow  is  produced  by  mixing  chro- 
mate  of  zinc  or  sulphide  of  cadmium 
with  liquid  neutral  water-glass. 

Orange  and  Red  with  minium  and 
cinnabar. 

Red-brown  by  mixing  red  ferric  oxide 
with  liquid  neutral  water-glass. 

Copper-brown  with  cupric  ferro- 
cyanide. 

White  by  grinding  zinc-white  with 
neutral  soda  water-glass. 

The  different  vegetable  lakes  ob- 
tained by  precipitation  with  alum, 
pink-salt,  and  other  tin-chlorides  are 
also  very  suitable  for  printing  on  cotton 
goods.  After  printing  and  drying  they 
are,  in  order  to  decompose  the  soda 
water-glass,  drawn  through  an  alum- 
bath,  whereby  the  silicic  acid  forms 
a  combination  with  the  lake,  and 
precipitates  itself  in  an  insoluble  state 
upon  the  fibre  of  the  fabric.  The 
goods  are  then  rinsed  in  running  water 
and  dried  in  the  shade. 

For  printing  the  so-called  "  solid 
blue,"  soda  water-glass  is  especially 
well  adapted  as  an  inspissating  agent. 
This  blue  is  the  precipitate  obtained 
with  acid  chloride  of  tin  in  the  cold  in- 
digo vat.  After  printing  the  color  is 
fixed  in  a  sulphuric  acid  bath,  and  the 
goods  are  then  rinsed. 

The   "solid  green"  is  obtained  by 


WATER-GLASS  AND  ITS  USES. 


381 


adding  to  the  blue  color  solution  of 
plumbic  oxide  in  caustic  lye.  After 
printing  the  color  is  fixed  by  drawing 
the  fabric  through  a  bath  of  potassium 
bichromate. 

Water-glass  in  Painting.  Feichtinger 
states  that  the  palace  at  Munich  is 
decorated  with  paintings  in  the  prepa- 
ration of  which  alkaline  silicates  have 
been  used,  and  some  of  which  have 
been  in  existence  for  some  tilne.  The 
alkaline  silicate  liquor  used  has  the 
specific  gravity  of  1.12,  is  opalescent, 
and,  on  standing,  forms  calcium  carbo- 
nate. It  leaves  on  evaporation  a  resi- 
due composed  of  silica  9.18  parts,  pot- 
ash 3.56,  soda  1.14,  potassium  sulphate 
0.66,  and  traces  of  chloride  of  sodium 
and  calcium  carbonate.  The  colors 
used  are  white  (mixtures  of  27  to  36 
parts  of  oxide  of  zinc  and  64  to  73  parts  of 
barium  sulphate), yellow, reddish-brown, 
and  dark  brown,  these  last  being  cal- 
careous ochres;  and  black,  a  mixture 
of  lampblack  and  manganese.  They 
are  made  up  into  thick  parts  with  a 
solution  of  water-glass  containing  silica 
51.79  per  cent.,  potash  39.05  per  cent., 
and  soda  9.16  per  cent.  The  surface  on 
which  these  colors  are  applied  is  a  cal- 
careous mortar  exposed  to  the  air  for  a 
long  time. 

A  water-glass  paint  of  a  yellowish- 
white  contains  oxide  of  zinc  52.7  parts, 
oxide  of  iron  3.25,  calcium  carbonate 
22.12,  sand  21.85.  This  is  mixed  with 
a  solution  of  water-glass,  leaving  be- 
hind 27.2  parts  of  residue  containing 
silica  67.05  per  cent.,  potash  29.4  per 
cent.,  and  soda  3.55  per  cent.  Appa- 
rently the  coloring  matter  in  this  case 
is  a  partially-calcined  natural  cala- 
mine. 

Use  of  Water-glass  for  Coating  Rough- 
cast and  Stone  Walls.  Mix  1  part  of 
water-glass  with  3  of  rain  water.  The 
solution  of  water-glass  is  decomposed 
by  the  lime  in  the  mortar.  The  cal- 
cium carbonate  is  converted  by  this 
decomposition  into  silicate,  whereby 
the  surface  acquires  a  glassy  appear- 
ance of  a  darker  hue,  becomes  solid 
and  hard,  and  resists  the  action  of  the 
weather. 

By  painting  white- washed  walls  with 
Water-glass  the  coat  becomes  very  dura- 
ble, does  not  rub  off,  and  can  be  washed. 
li  the  white  color  is  to  be  preserved 


some  fat  lime  may  be  added  to  the 
water-glass. 

Zinc  white  with  an  addition  of  J  to 
i  part  by  weight  of  permanent  white 
and  ground  in  water-glass  gives  a  beau- 
tiful white  color. 

Water-glass  in  Painting  Metals  and 
Glass.  Water-glass  either  by  itself  or 
mixed  with  pigments  is  especially  well 
adapted  for  painting  articles  of  iron, 
zinc,  brass,  etc.,  exposed  to  the  action 
of  air  and  moisture,  and  also  to  prevent 
rust.  A  coat  of  a  mixture  of  water- 
glass  and  some  elutriated  manganese  ap- 
plied to  iron  will  stand  a  red  heat;  nay, 
more,  the  coating  will  become  more 
beautiful.  This  paint,  as  it  prevents 
rusting,  maybe  especially  recommended 
for  stove-pipes. 

Wood  Painted  with  Water-glass  is 
protected  against  the  action  of  fire,  the 
atmosphere,  and  moisture,  and  is  be- 
sides rendered  very  durable.  The 
water-glass  must  be  applied  cold,  not 
too  concentrated  nor  too  thick.  Such 
solution  is  obtained  by  diluting  1  part 
of  water-glass  of  33  per  cent,  with  5  of 
rain  water.  Apply  several  coats  of  this 
to  the  wood,  allowing  each  coat  to 
dry  thoroughly  before  laying  on  the 
next. 

Creuzburg's  process,  according  to 
which  water-glass  paint  is  more  dura- 
ble than  oil  or  varnish,  consists  in 
grinding  the  pigments  not  in  water- 
glass  but  in  a  compound  of  equal  parts 
of  water  and  skim  milk,  as  pigments 
ground  in  water-grass  alone  rub  off  too 
easily.  In  painting  the  solution  of 
water-glass  is  first  applied,  then  a  coat 
of  paint,  then  again  water-glass,  and  so 
on,  the  last  coat  being  one  or  more 
of  water-glass.  Every  coat  must  be 
thoroughly  dry  before  the  next  is  laid 
on. 

Water-glass  can  be  substituted  for 
borax  and  borocic  acid,  especially  for 
soldering,  hardening,  and  welding  cast- 
iron.  For  welding  cast-iron  to  iron  or 
steel  scatter  upon  the  hot  surfaces  to  be 
joined  a  powder  consisting  of  clay  thor- 
oughly dried  2  parts,  calcined  soda  1, 
and  potash  i. 

Water-glass  Cements.  By  combining 
water-glass  with  cement  or  quicklime 
a  double  silicate  hard  as  stone  and  re- 
sisting chemical  agents  is  formed  in  ft 
short  time, 


382 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Water-glass  by  itself  can  only  be  used 
for  cementing  glass  to  glass,  and  even 
for  this  a  certain  skill  is  required,  but 
combined  with  other  substances  it  fur- 
nishes a  durable  and  hard  cement. 

To  Cement  Cracked  Bottles  with 
Water-glass.  Prepare  a  thickly-fluid 
solution  of  water-glass.  Provide  the 
bottle  with  a  cork  fitting  tightly  but 
set  on  loosely,  while  the  bottle  is  heated 
to  at  least  212°  F.  When  this  is  done 
press  down  the  cork,  so  that  it  closes 
the  bottle  hermetically,  and  then  apply 
a  thick  coat  of  the  water-glass  solution 
to  the  cracks.  The  air  in  the  bottle  on 
cooling  contracts,  the  pressure  of  the 
outer  air  forces  the  water-glass  into  the 
cracks,  closing  them  so  perfectly  that 
they  cannot  be  detected. 

Hydraulic  Water-glass  Cement  is 
prepared  by  quickly  mixing  fiuely- 
pulverized  cement  with  solution  of 
water-glass.  The  cement,  by  reason 
of  its  hardening  in  a  very  short  time, 
must  be  applied  as  quickly  as  possible. 
It  is  excellent  for  hydraulic  works,  as 
in  the  water  it  becomes  as  hard  as  stone. 
The  stones  should  be  coated  with  a  solu- 
tion of  water-glass  immediately  before 
applying  the  cement. 

Water-glass  Cement  for  Glass  and 
Porcelain.  Elutriated  glass  powder 
10  parts,  elutriated  powder  of  fluor- 
spar 20,  solution  of  water-glass  60. 
The  ingredients  are  stirred  together  as 
quickly  as  possible,  and  the  resulting 
homogeneous  paste  is  immediately  ap- 
plied. The  cement  becomes  so  hard  in 
a  few  days  that  the  cemented  article 
can  be  safely  heated. 

Water-glass  Cement  with  Zinc  and 
Pyrolusite.  Pyrolusite  80  parts,  zinc 
white  100,  and  water-glass  20.  This 
cement  hardens  in  a  short  time,  and 
Js  especially  adapted  for  cementing 
the  joints  of  pipes  exposed  to  a  red  heat, 
as,  when  once  fused,  it  forms  a  glass-like 
mass  of  great  adhesive  power,  and 
makes  a  very  close  joint. 

Water-glass  and  Lime  Cement. 
Quicklime  10  parts,  whiting  100,  solu- 
tion of  water-glass  25.  This  cement 
hardens  slowly  and  can  be  used  for 
flag-pavement  by  mixing  with  it  small 
sharp-edged  stones  and  stamping  it  into 
moulds. 

Uottger's  Water-glass  and  Lime 
Cement.  This  cement  becomes  so  hard 


in  a  few  hours  that  it  can  be  polished ; 
it  consists  of  whiting  100  parts  and 
thick  solution  of  water-glass  25,  and  is 
especially  adapted  for  cementing  the 
joints  between  marble  plates. 

Water-glass  and  Caseine  Cement  for 
Glass  and  Porcelain.  Caseine  10 
parts,  solution  of  water-glass  60.  The 
cement  must  be  applied  as  quickly  as 
possible,  and  the  cemented  articles 
dried  in  the  air. 

Water-glass  mixed  with  powdered 
chalk  furnishes  a  mortar  hardening 
completely  in  6  to  8  hours  ;  mixed  with 
sulphide  of  antimony  it  forms  a  dark 
mass,  susceptible  of  a  high  polish  ;  with 
iron  filings  the  result  is  a  grayish-black, 
very  hard  mass;  whilst  with  zinc  fil- 
ings a  very  hard  gray  metallic  mass  is 
produced  very  suitable  for  cementing 
zinc  work. 

Water-glass  for  Preserving  Barrels 
and  Other  Wooden  Articles.  Heat 
commercial  water-glass  diluted  with 
about  25  per  cent,  ot  water  and  apply  a 
coat  of  the  hot  solution  to  the  barrel. 
When  thoroughly  soaked  in,  repeat  the 
application,  allow  it  to  dry  and  then 
give  a  coat  of  a  solution  of  1  part  of 
sodium  bicarbonate  in  8  parts  of  water. 
By  the  latter  application  the  carbonic 
acid  of  the  bicarbonate  separates  the 
silicic  acid  from  the  water-glass  (so- 
dium silicate)  soaked  into  the  pores  of 
the  wood,  which,  so  to  speak,  silicifies 
the  wood  and  renders  it  capable  of  re- 
sisting the  penetration  of  liquids.  Bar- 
rels thus  treated  are  very  durable  and 
easily  cleansed. 


WATER-PROOFING  COMPOUNDS. 

Preparations  for  Water-proofing  Tis- 
sues.  Dissolve  33  to  36  parts  of  pure 
gutta-percha  in  333  parts  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine or  benzole,  filter  the  solution, 
and  compound  it  with  333  parts  of  lin- 
seed-oil varnish.  Apply  with  a  brush. 

II.  Dissolve  at  a  moderate  heat  33 
Darts  of  white  wax  shavings  in  1665  to 
3000  parts  of  collodion. 

III.  Pulverize  as  fine  as  possible  250 
larts  of  white  bole,  1500  parts  of  silver 
itharge,  and  500  parts  of  calcined  lamp- 
black, and  compound  the  ingredients 
with  the  required  quantity  of  linseed- 

il  varnish. 


WATER-PROOFING  COMPOUNDS. 


To  Make  Sacking  Water-proof.  Dis- 
solve 1  part  of  rosin  in  20  parts  of  coal- 
tar  oil,  and  filter  the  solution.  Let  the 
sacking  lie  in  it  for  5  days,  and  then 
rub  it  with  litharge  or  lime.  Then  dis- 
solve i  part  of  rosin  in  4  parts  of  coal-tar 
oil,  immerse  the  sacking  several  times 
and  rub  again  with  litharge  or  lime. 

Soap  for  Water-proofing  Woollen 
Cloth  and  other  Fabrics.  Prepare  the 
following  solutions:  I.  Thirty -three 
parts  of  isinglass  in  66  parts  of  water. 
II.  Sixty-six  parts  of  alum  in  a  like 
quantity  of  water.  III.  Sixty-six  parts 
of  white  soap  in  500  parts  of  water. 
Filter  the  solutions,  then  pour  them 
together  in  a  vessel  standing  on  a  fire, 
arid  let  the  mixture  boil  up.  Then 
take  it  from  the  fire  and  apply  it  with 
a  brush  to  the  back  of  the  fabric. 
When  dry  brush  it  against  the  grain 
and  later  on  with  the  brush  dipped  in 
water  in  order  to  remove  all  lustre. 
The  fabric  is  then  dried.  For  thin 
woollen  and  cotton  fabrics  and  silk 
take  but  half  the  quantity  of  water  and 
soak  them  in  the  fluid. 

Various  Processes  of  Water-proofing 
Tissues.  I.  Dissolve  1  part  each  of 
glue  and  neutral  lime  soap  in  20  of 
boiling  water,  and  add  gradually  1-i 

rrts  of  alum.  Then  boil  the  solution 
hour,  let  the  resulting  milky  fluid 
cool  off  to  120°  F.,  and  immerse  the 
tissues  until  they  are  thoroughly  per- 
meated, and  hang  them  up  to  dry  with- 
out wringing.  When  dry  the  tissue  is 
washed,  again  dried  and  mangled. 

II.  Dissolve  125  parts  of  gun-cotton 
in  425  of  ether  and  mix  the  solution 
with  375  parts  of  castor  oil  and  25  of 
an  organic  coloring  substance.  The 
quantity  of  castor  oil  depends  on  the 
degree  of  flexibility  the  fabric  is  to 
have.  Apply  the  mixture  in  the  same 
way  as  caoutchouc  solution. 

Preparation  of  Collodion  Varnish 
for  Water-proofing  fabrics.  Dis- 
solve 250  parts  of  gun-cotton  in  a  mixt- 
ure of  630  parts  of  ether  and  100  of 
alcohol,  add  20  parts  of  castor  oil,  and 
apply  several  layers  of  the  solution  to 
the  fabric.  Paper  thus  prepared,  on 
being  rubbed  with  a  rag  dipped  in 
ether,  acquires  a  beautiful  polish.  This 
collodion  varnish  can  also  be  mixed 
with  linseed-oil  varnish  or  oil  of  tur- 
pentine varnish. 


A  New  Water-proofing  Compound 
is  prepared  by  melting  paraffine,  and 
adding  gradually  a  suitable  drying 
oil,  stirring  well  to  insure  intimate 
mixture;  it  is  then  poured  into  moulds 
the  shape  of  bricks  or  blocks,  and 
allowed  to  cool.  The  fabric  to  be 
rendered  water-proof  is  rubbed  over 
with  a  block  of  the  compound,  warm- 
ing the  rubbing  face  gently  if  the 
atmosphere  is  cold,  and  then  ironing 
the  cloth  with  a  warm  iron  or  passing 
it  between  hot  rollers.  The  applica- 
tion of  this  compound  to  leather  and 
textile  and  felted  fabrics  gives  .ex- 
cellent results,  as,  although  it  renders 
the  cloth  thoroughly  water-proof,  it  is 
not  impervious  to  the  air. 

To  Manufacture  Water-proof  Cloth 
which  is  not  Impervious  to  the  Air. 
Instead  of  water-proofing  the  finished 
cloth,  coat  the  yarns  before  weaving 
with  a  solution  of  copal  or  aniine,  and 
boiled  linseed-oil  in  oil  of  turpentine, 
which  is  heated  and  mixed  with  half 
its  weight  of  a  *hick  solution  of  caout- 
chouc in  oil  of  turpentine.  The  yarn 
is  drawn  through  the  varnish  and,  to 
remove  any  excess,  is  passed  through 
a  cut  in  a  piece  of  leather  or  rubber  ;  it 
is  then  wound  upon  a  roller,  dried  at  a 
moderate  heat,  and  is  now  ready  for 
weaving.  It  is  very  glossy,  and  fabrics 
manufactured  from  it  present  a  beauti- 
ful appearance. 

Prepared  Cloth  as  a  Substitute  for 
Leather.  The  cotton  or  linen  cloth 
called  "moleskin"  is  used  for  the 
purpose,  both  sides  of  it  being  coated 
with  a  compound  obtained  by  mixing 
100  parts  of  drying  oil,  3  of  burnt 
umber,  and  6  of  lampblack,  and  lique- 
fying the  mixture  with  oil  of  turpen- 
tine. When  dry  the  cloth  is  passed 
between  smoothing  rollers.  Several 
layers  of  this  mixture  may  be  applied, 
and  when  the  last  layer  is  dry  the 
cloth  is  coated  with  a  varnish  consist- 
ing of  the  same  ingredients  as  above, 
but  a  larger  quantity  of  ail  of  tnrpen~ 
tine.  When  this  is  dry,  the  surface  is 
polished  with  pumice  stone,  and  finally 
coated  with  a  varnish  consisting  of 
linseed  oil  100  parts,  litharge,  umber, 
and  Berlin-blue  each  3,  and  caout- 
chouc 2.  The  cloth  is  finally  dried  for 
48  to  60  hours,  at  a  temperature  of 
120°  F. 


884 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


To  Water-proof  Felt,  Woollen  and 
Half-woollen  Fabrics,  and  to  give 
them  greater  Consistence.  The  fabrics 
are  treated  with  a  solution  composed 
of  potash-alum,  animal  or  vegetable 
glue  each  100  parts,  tannin  5,  and 
potash  water-glass  2.  Three  different 
operations  are  required  to  prepare  the 
solution.  1.  The  potash-alum  is  dis- 
solved in  an  equal  quantity  by  weight 
of  boiling  water.  2.  The  glue  is  al- 
lowed to  swell  up  in  cold  water  until 
it  has  absorbed  double  its  quantity  by 
weight.  The  excess  of  water  is  then 
poured  off,  and  the  glue  brought  to 
the  boiling  point,  and  the  tannin  and 
soda  water-glass  are  then  added.  3. 
The  two  solutions  are  now  mixed  to- 
gether and  boiled,  with  constant  stir- 
ring, until  a  complete  union  has  taken 
place,  when  it  is  allowed  to  cool, 
whereby  it  will  acquire  a  gelatinous 
consistency.  For  treating  felt  or  other 
fabrics  a  bath  is  prepared  by  boiling  1 
part  of  the  gelatinous  compound  with 
10  to  12  parts  of  water  for  3  hours. 
The  water  evaporating  in  boiling  is 
always  replaced  by  fresh,  so  that  the 
bath  retains  its  density,  which  is  regu- 
lated by  a  test  with  the  densimeter. 
The  bath  is  then  cooled  to  175°  F., 
and  the  felt  or  fabric  immersed  in  it 
for  i  hour.  The  impregnated  fabric 
is  then  spread  upon  a  table  for  6  hours 
to  allow  the  fluid  to  drain  off.  This 
must  be  done  at  an  ordinary  tempera- 
ture, and  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
fabric  lies  in  a  perfectly  horizontal 
position  and  is  everywhere  equally 
permeated.  The  fluid  draining  off  is 
collected  and  again  used.  The  fabric 
is  then  dried  in  the  sun  or  in  a  room 
heated  at  most  to  120°  F. ;  kept  in  a 
horizontal  position,  so  that  the  fluid  re- 
mains equally  distributed  over  the  en- 
tire surface.  Finish  by  passing  the 
fabric  through  rollers  heated  to  120°  F. 
Felt  or  other  fabrics  prepared  in  this 
manner  possess  more  consistency  and 
power  of  resistance  than  ordinary 
tissues — are  water-proof  but  not  im- 
pervious to  the  air.  If  the  fabrics  are 
subjected  to  this  treatment  after 
»yeing  it  helps  to  fix  the  colors,  but 
for  very  tender  colors  it  is  advisable  to 
use  almost  white  glue  and  perfectly 
pure  alum,  i.  e.,  containing  no  trace  of 
iron,  as  this  would  injure  the  colors. 


To  Water-proof  Vegetable  Fibres. 
Compound  20  parts  of  petroleum  as 
inodorous  as  possible  with  £  part  of 
ordinary,  i-of  very  light  rosin,  and  & 
of  paraffine,  heat  the  mixture  at  167° 
F.  until  all  are  dissolved.  Then  add 
60  to  SO  parts  of  water,  and  heat  the 
whole  until  the  fluid  becomes  clear. 
Then,  after  cooling  the  mixture  to 
about  140°  F.,  immerse  the  fibres  in  it, 
and  allow  them  to  remain  until  no 
more  foaming  up  is  perceived  on  the 
surface.  Yarns,  tissues,  ropes,  bags, 
etc.,  are  slowly  drawn  through  the 
bath  until  the  above-named  foaming 
up  ceases.  The  impregnated  fabrics  or 
fibres  are  then  freed  from  adhering 
parts  of  the  mixture  by  passing  them 
through  rollers.  They  are  then 
thrown  into  water  for  1  to  2  hours, 
again  passed  through  rollers,  this 
manipulation  being  repeated  until  the 
impregnating  mixtureis  almost  entirely 
removed  from  the  surface  of  the  fibres 
or  fabrics,  and  they  are  then  dried. 

To  Water-proof  Textile  Fabrics, 
Leather,  Paper,  etc.  The  compound 
consists  of  100  parts  of  best  quality  of 
white  or  yellow  wax,  6  parts  of  English 
varnish,  4  parts  of  Burgundy  pitch,  8 
parts  of  peanut  oil,  5  parts  of  sulphate 
of  iron,  and  2  parts  of  essence  of 
thyme.  The  pitch  is  melted  in  an  iron 
boiler,  and  the  wax  together  with  the 
sulphate  of  iron  in  another.  Both  are 
then  poured  together,  intimately  mixed 
and  kept  at  a  moderate  heat  until  the 
compound  is  liquid  and  homogeneous. 
The  fabrics  to  be  water-proofed  are 
immersed  in  it,  and  then  freed  from  an 
excess  by  passing  through  heated 
rollers.  For  water-proofing  leather  the 
compound  is  applied  with  a  brush  to 
the  inner  side  with  the  leather  lying 
upon  a  heated  plate. 

To  Water-proof  Paper  add  to  the 
stuff  a  solution  of  pure  tallow  soap  in 
water,  to  which  has  been  added  suffi- 
cient alum  to  effect  an  entire  decompo- 
sition of  the  soap.  The  stuff  is  then 
worked  up  in  the  ordinary  manner, 
but  requires  no  sizing. 

For  Water-proofing  Woollen  Fab- 
rics. Boil  12£  parts  of  Castile  soap  in 
1200  parts  of  water,  and  16£  parts  of 
alum  also  in  1200  parts  of  water. 
Heat  both  solutions  to  about  195°  F., 
then  pass  the  fabric  several  times 


WATER-PROOFING  COMPOUNDS. 


385 


through  the  soap-bath,  and  through 
the  alum  solution,  and  dry  in  the  air. 

II.  The  following  mixture  answers 
the  same  purpose :  Borax  15  parts, 
isinglass  100  parts,  sago  3  parts,  salep 
2  parts,  stearine  15  parts,  and  water 
1000  parts. 

Impregnation  with  Caoutchouc.  Mix 
intimately  30  parts  of  alumina  with  100 
parts  of  a  concentrated  solution  of 
caoutchouc  in  oil  of  turpentine,  spread 
the  cloth  upon  a  table  and  apply  the 
compound  with  a  brush,  and  dry. 
Several  layers  of  the  compound  maybe 
applied,  the  thickness  of  each  coat 
varying  according  to  the  number  of 
layers.  Should  the  non-coated  side  of 
the  cloth  undergo  any  change,  cleanse 
it  with  alcohol. 

Impenetrable  Double  Stuff.  The 
principal  feature  of  this  fabric  consists 
in  it  being  formed  by  uniting  two 
tissues,  which  without  being  impervious 
to  the  air  are  water-proofed  by  the 
above  compound  or  by  the  following 
preparation  :  Mix  62£  parts  of  alum,  50 
parts  of  white  lead,  and  900  parts  of 
water.  After  these  ingredients  have 
acted  upon  each  other  for  some  time, 
pour  off  the  clear  liquid  and  immerse 
the  fabrics  in  it  to  saturation.  Then 
place  them  in  an  ordinary  soap-bath, 
wash  and  dry  them.  The  caoutchouc 
solution  is  then  applied  in  oblique 
strokes  to  the  surfaces  to  be  joined,  so 
that  when  the  two  fabrics  are  placed 
together  the  strokes  upon  the  first  cut 
those  upon  the  other  at  a  right  angle. 
Small  squares  are  formed  in  this  manner 
which  allow  of  the  passage  of  air  and 
transpiration,  without  moisture  or  rain 
being  able  to  penetrate  through  the 
double  fabric. 

Becker,  Delivaire  &  Co.  make  cloths 
and  other  fabrics  water-proof  by  coat- 
ing them  with  a  mixture  of :  Spermaceti 
58  parts,  flaxseed  78  parts,  decoction 
of  snails  (from  200  snails)  29  p.u-ts, 
isinglass  and  alum  each  175  parts. 
Each  of  the  ingredients  is  dissolved  by 
itself  in  boiling  water,  and  the  solutions 
are  then  mixed.  In  place  of  spermaceti, 
stearine  saponified  with  caustic  soda- 
lye  may  be  used,  and  the  decoctions  of 
flaxseed  and  isinglass  compounded 
with  some  ammonia.  The  alum-bath 
may  be  used  by  itself  or  the  decoction 
of  fiaxseed  is  first  stirred  into  the  solu- 
25 


tion  of  isinglass,  then  the  soap,  and 
finally  the  alum  solution,  the  whole 
being  heated  to  100°  to  120°  F.  An 
addition  of  a  little  sulphuric  acid 
makes  the  compound  adhere  better  to 
the  fibres.  Cloth  water-proofed  in  this 
manner  is  not  impervious  to  air  and 
transpiration. 

A  JSew  Process  of  Water-proofing 
Fabrics  is  as  follows :  Dissolve  at  a 
moderate  heat  35  parts  of  stearic  acid 
in  850  parts  of  spirit  of  wine,  pour  the 
solution  upon  1100  parts  of  pulverized 
alum  and  expose  the  whole  to  a  tem- 
perature of  98i°  F.  For  water-proofing 
cotton  and  linen  fabrics  immerse  them 
in  a  solution  of  1  part  of  this  powder  in 
100  of  water,and  then  dry  them.  For  silk 
1  part  of  the  powder  in  200  of  water  is 
used. 

VaneVs  Water-proof  Composition  con- 
sists of  mineral  salts  and  stearic  or 
margaric  acid.  It  is  prepared  as  fol- 
lows: The  salt  and  about  50  parts  of 
sebacic  acid  are  mixed  with  1000  parts 
of  water,  the  mixture  filtered  through 
a  felt  bag,  and  the  residue  pressed  to 
dryness.  One  part  of  this  residue  in  100 
of  water  forms  the  bath  in  which  the 
fabrics  are  immersed.  They  become 
water-proof  but  not  impervious  to  the 
air.  All  kinds  of  tissues,  paper,  and 
leather  can  be  subjected  to  the  process. 
The  composition  is  inodorous  and  does 
not  injure  colors. 

Roelandt's  Water -proofing  Com- 
pounds. Dissolve  1  part  by  weight  of 
caoutchouc  and  1  part  by  weight  of 
paraffine  or  stearine  in  2  parts  by  weight 
of  benzine,  dilute  the  compound  to  the 
proper  consistency,  and  apply  it  with  a 
brush  or  immerse  the  substances  in  it. 

To  make  Hoots  and  Shoes  Water-proof 
use  the  following  preparation  patented 
in  France:  Soda  20  parts,  oil  of  tur- 
pentine 50,  tar-oil  160,  rosin  25,  linseed 
oil  and  isinglass  each  15,  gutta-percha 
125,  and  glue  25. 

To  Water-proof  Sugar-bags  for  Trans- 
port use  a  compound  also  patented  in 
France,  prepared  from  100  parts  of  best 
starch,  50  parts  of  rosin,  25  parts  each 
of  potash  and  boiled  linseed-oil,  and 
sufficient  water  to  form  a  paste  of  more 
or  less  consistency,  according  to  the 
material  with  which  the  bags  are  to  be 
lined,  strong  paper  or  muslin  being 
used  for  this  purpose.  Coat  the  inside  of 


386 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


the  bag  with  the  paste,  and  while 
moist  press  on  it  the  paper  or  muslin 
lining,  which  should  be  large  enough  to 
lap  over  the  seams.  Dry  in  summer  in 
the  sun  and  in  winter  in  a  room  heated 
to  104°  F. 

The  following  Water-proofing  Com- 
pound has  been  patented  in  England : 
Mix  about  100  parts  of  alumina  with 
40  parts  of  flaxseed  and  70  parts  of 
alcohol,  let  it  stand  to  settle  and  press 
the  sediment  formed  into  blocks.  For 
water-proofing  fabrics,  dissolve  5  to  7i 
parts  of  the  compound  in  300  parts  of 
water. 

Water-proofing  Felt  Hats.  Pulver- 
ize: Ordinary  shellac  4  parts,  white 
pitch,  fine  glue,  and  ordinary  soap  each 
1  part,  and  purified  potash  &  part.  Dis- 
solve the  potash  in  2  parts  of  warm 
water,  place  the  other  ingredients  in  a 
copper  boiler  on  a  coal  fire,  and  as  soon 
as  the  mixture  begins  to  liquefy  add 
the  potash  solution,  and  finally  a  little 
more  soap  dissolved  in  water.  Apply 
the  compound  with  a  brush. 

Water-proof  Sail-cloth,  known  by 
the  name  of  "Imperial  Cloth"  is  pre- 
pared in  the  following  manner:  Seventy- 
two  parts  of  fine  linseed  oil  are  boiled 
for  2  to  3  hours  with  6  parts  of  sulphate 
of  iron  and  4  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  and, 
when  cool,  mixed  with  60  parts  of  oil 
of  turpentine  and  the  necessary  quan- 
tity of  lampblack.  The  sail-cloth  is 
painted  with  this  compound  and  dried 
in  the  sun.  After  8  or  10  days  the  ap- 
plication is  repeated.  We  will  here 
remark  that  it  is  necessary  to  shrink 
the  sail-cloth  in  water  and  dry  it  before 
applying  the  compound. 

Zwilling's  Water-proofing  Compound. 
Put  a  porcelain  dish  in  a  water-bath 
and  place  in  it  the  following  ingredi- 
ents: Caoutchouc  cut  up  very  fine  50 
parts,  Venetian  turpentine  3  parts,  and 
paraffmeoil  66£  parts.  Let  the  mixture 
stand  in  the  water-bath  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  98P  F.  for  1  day,  then  add  66i 
parts  of  oil  of  turpentine,  mix  thor- 
oughly by  stirring,  and  leave  the  com- 
pound in  the  water-bath  for  10  days, 
then  add  583  parts  more  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine, and  let  it  stand  for  14  days 
longer  in  the  water-bath.  The  product 
will  be  750  parts  of  yellowish  liquid, 
which  is  applied  with  a  brush,  and  the 
fabric  is  then  dried  at  120°  F. 


Dr.Fournaise's  Water-proofing  Com- 
pound. Immerse  the  fabrics  in  a  bath 
of  4°  to  5°  B.  of  acetate  of  alumina, 
prepared,  not  by  double  decomposition, 
but  by  dissolving  hydrate  of  alumina 
in  acetic  acid.  The  fabric  is  immersed 
in  this  solution  for  1  hour,  then  pressed 
dry,  and,  to  expel  the  acetic  acid  from 
the  combination,  exposed  in  a  steam- 
box  to  a  temperature  of  230°  to  248°  F. 
Kuhr's  Receipt  for  Water-proofing 
Linen.  The  linen  is  first  immersed  in 
an  alum-bath  composed  of  a  solution 
of  1  part  of  neutral  sulphate  of  alu- 
minium in  10  of  water,  and,  when  thor- 
oughly saturated,  in  a  hot  soap-bath 
prepared  by  boiling  1  part  each  of 
colophony  and  soda  in  10  of  water,  sep- 
arating the  soap  with  1  part  of  salt,  and 
dissolving  this  soap  and  1  part  of  white 
hard  soap  by  boiling  in  30  parts  of 
water.  The  fabric  is  then  dried. 

To  Water-proof  Textile  Fabrics  and 
Paper  and  to  Give  them  Greater  Consist- 
ence. To  water-proof  paper  take :  Soda 
100  parts,  rosin  270  parts,  gamboge  3s 
part,  and  100  parts  of  lime.  Slake  the 
lime  in  water,  and  dissolve  the  soda  in 
water.  Heat  the  soda  solution  in  a 
boiler,  and  add  sufficient  milk  of  lime 
to  make  it  caustic.  The  rosin  and 
gamboge  are  melted  together  at  a  mod- 
erate heat.  Pour  this  melted  com- 
ixuind  gradually  into  the  caustic  soda- 
ye  until  it  is  no  longer  dissolved  by  it. 
On  cooling  the  compound  congeals  to  a 
solid  mass,  which  is  kept  for  future 
use.  For  water-proofing  paper  or 
textile  fabrics  dissolve  10  parts  of  this 
compound  in  100  parts  of  boiling  water. 
Next  prepare  a  solution  of  10  parts  of 
alum  in  100  parts  of  water.  The  paper 
or  fabric  is  immersed  in  the  first  and 
then  in  the  second  solution,  and  dried 
by  passing  between  hot  rollers  or  in  any 
other  manner.  For  white  paper  or  fab- 
rics the  gamboge  is  omitted. 

Composition  for  Water-proofing 
Textile  Fabrics  and  Protecting  them 
ar/ainst  Moths.  Dissolve  separately  5 
parts  each  of  alum  and  sugar  of  lead  in 
sufficient  water.  Heat  the  solutions 
and  mix  them  while  warm  ;  then  allow 
the  mixture  to  stand  quietly  until  a 
precipitate  of  sulphate  of  lead  is 
formed.  The  clear  fluid,  now  contain- 
ing acetate  of  alumina,  is  then  poured 
off  and  mixed  with  500  parts  of  water 


WAX  AND  WAX  PREPARATIONS. 


387 


containing  some  solution  of  isinglass. 
Immerse  the  articles  for  12  hours  in 
this  fluid  until  saturated,  then  dry  and 
press  them.  They  are  water-proof,  but 
not  impervious  to  air,  and  not  attacked 
by  moths. 


WAX  AND  WAX  PREPARATIONS. 

Unadulterated  beeswax  is  of  a  pure 
yellow  color,  has  a  honey-like  smell, 
breaks  easily  into  small  pieces,  does 
not  dissolve  in  cold  spirit  of  wine  nor 
oil  of  turpentine,  and  melts  at  148.6°  F. 

To  Bleach  Beeswax.  A  wooden  vat 
of  about  twice  the  volume  of  the  wax 
should  be  lined  with  lead  and  have  on 
its  bottom  a  coil  of  perforated  lead  pipe. 
Faucets  should  be  placed  different 
heights.  Thirty  parts  of  water  to  every 
50  parts  of  wax  are  first  placed  into  the 
vat,  and  brought  to  the  boiling  point 
by  introducing  steam  in  the  serpentine 
pipe.  Then  add  to  the  water  for  every 
50  parts  of  wax  6  to  7i  parts  of  potassium 
bichromate,  according  to  the  light  or 
dark  color  of  the  wax,  and  about  24 
parts  of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid. 
Now  melt  the  wax  in  water  in  another 
vessel  by  introducing  steam,  and  pour 
it  either  directly  into  the  bleaching 
liquor  or  allow  it  first  to  congeal  and 
add  it  in  a  solid  state.  After  the  wax 
has  been  placed  in  the  bleaching  liquor 
introduce  steam  through  the  serpentine 
pipe,  and  let  the  whole  boil  vigorously 
for  about  1  hour.  Steam  of  about  5> 
pounds  pressure  to  the  square  inch 
should  be  used ;  too  hot  steam,  being 
injurious  to  the  wax,  must  be  avoided. 
Take  occasionally  a  sample  from  the 
vat  and  examine  it  in  a  test-glass.  The 
process  is  finished  if  the  wax  floats  as  a 
green  layer  upon  a  black  fluid.  Let 
the  mass  stand  quietly  for  half  an  hour, 
then  draw  the  wax  off  into  another  vat 
containing  7i  parts  of  water  and  i  part 
of  sulphuric  acid,  or,  still  better,  oxalic 
acid.  Heat  the  mixture  to  the  boiling 
point  by  steam  introduced  through  a 
pipe  on  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  and  con- 
tinue boiling  iintil  the  wax  has  lost  its 
green  color.  The  wax  is  finally  washed 
with  water  and  poured  into  moulds. 

Green  Wax.  Melt  200  parts  of  yellow 
wax,  100  parts  of  white  rosin,  and  66i 
parts  of  ordinary  turpentine  ;  mix  the 


compound  with  16J  parts  of  pulverized 
verdigris,  and  pour  the  mass,  while 
hot,  into  paper  capsules. 

Black  Wax.  I.  Melt  in  a  copper 
boiler  550  parts  of  yellow  wax,  and  add 
gradually  and  with  constant  stirring  50 
parts  of  prepared  silver  litharge,  and 
boil  until  the  compound  begins  to  as- 
sume a  brown  color;  then  add  16i 
parts  of  calcined  lampblack  rubbed 
very  fine,  mix  thoroughly,  and  pour 
the  mass  into  paper  capsules. 

II.  Melt  in  a  porcelain  dish  333 
parts  of  yellow  wax  and  83  parts  of 
Venetian  "turpentine;  then  add  gradu- 
ally and  with  constant  stirring  33  parts 
of  black  sulphide  of  mercury,  and  pour 
the  mass  into  paper  capsules. 

Red  Wax.  Melt  20  parts  of  white 
wax  and  12  of  Venetian  turpentine,  add 
1  part  of  fine  cinnabar,  and  pour  the 
mass  into  paper  capsules. 

Polishing  Wax.  Melt  i  part  of  yel- 
low wax  and  &  of  rosin,  and  add  i  part 
of  oil  of  turpentine. 

Polishing  Wax  for  Furniture.  Pour 
3  parts  of  oil  of  turpentine  over  4  parts 
of  white  wax  in  an  earthen  vessel,  cover 
the  vessel  tightly  with  strong  paper, 
and  place  it  in  warm  water  on  the  back 
part  of  a  warm  stove  to  melt  the  wax. 
When  both  substances  are  united  let 
the  mixture  cool  until  it  begins  to  be 
solid  and  assume  a  whitish  color,  then 
add  and  mix  with  it  2  parts  of  strong 
alcohol. 

Another  Polishing  Wax  for  Furni- 
ture is  prepared  by  melting  8  parts  of 
white  wax,  2  of  rosin,  and  \  of  Venetian 
turpentine  over  a  moderate  fire,  pouring 
the  compound  while  warm  into  a  suit- 
able earthenware  pot,  and  stirring  into 
it  6  parts  of  rectified  oil  of  turpentine. 
In  24  hours  the  polish  will  have  ac- 
quired the  consistency  of  soft  butter, 
and  is  then  ready  for  use.  Now  care- 
fully cleanse  the  furniture  with  soap- 
water,  and,  when  dry,  apply  the  polish 
in  a  thin  layer  with  a  woollen  rag,  rub- 
bing first  gently  and  then  more  vigor- 
ously. Then  let  the  furniture  stand  for 
i  to  £  hour,  and  rub  once  more  thor- 
oughly with  a  woollen  cloth. 

Wax  Soap.  Melt  £  part  of  crumbs 
of  wax  in  1  part  of  caustic  soda-lye. 
Should  the  soap  thus  obtained  be  too 
caustic  add  some  more  wax  and  rain- 
water, and  unite  the  whole  by  melting 


588 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


and  stirring.  This  soap  is  used  for 
waxing  floors,  etc. 

To  Prepare  Waxed  Paper.  Place 
a  level  sheet  of  copper  over  a  moderate 
coal  fire,  and  cover  it  with  a  clean 
sheet  of  paper  as  a  basis  for  the  work  ; 
place  the  paper  to  be  prepared  upon 
this,  smear  it  over  with  yellow  or  white 
wax,  and  distribute  it  uniformly  over 
the  whole  sheet  by  means  of  a  sponge 
until  the  paper  is  transparent.  The 
success  of  the  work  depends  principally 
on  the  condition  of  the  fire ;  it  must  be 
neither  too  strong  nor  too  moderate,  as 
in  the  first  case  it  blackens  the  paper, 
and  in  the  latter  makes  the  labor  very 
difficult. 

Colors  for  Wax*  Work.  Every  wax- 
worker  should  thoroughly  understand 
the  mixing  of  colors  to  give  to  the  dif- 
ferent articles  fashioned  of  wax  a  pleas- 
ing and  natural  appearance.  The 
colors  given  in  the  following  must  be 
rubbed  up  in  oil  of  turpentine : 

Rose  Color.  Rub  a  rose  color  with 
fine  Vienna  lake  and  Kremuitz  white, 
paint  a  rose  upon  the  wax  candle  or 
other  article  to  be  decorated,  then  add 
a  little  more  white,  making  the  color 
somewhat  whiter,  paint  a  few  rose- 
petals  upon  the  first  red  ground,  and 
finally  shade  with  some  Vienna 
lake. 

Yellow  F/owers,  for  instance  daffo- 
dils, are  entirely  painted  with  chrome- 
yellow,  with  the  exception  of  the  pistil, 
which  is  executed  with  Vienna  lake, 
and  the  work  is  then  shaded  with  dark 
och  re. 

Blue  Color.  To  paint  larkspur,  blue 
gilly  flowers,  etc.,  mix  Parisian  blue 
with  white  to  a  sky-blue,  and  paint  the 
flower  with  this.  Lighter  shades  are 
obtained  by  adding  more  white.  Shade 
with  Parisian  blue. 

Violet  Colors.  By  mixing  Parisian 
blue,  white,  and  Vienna  lake,  a  beau- 
tiful lilac  is  obtained.  The  flower  is 
painted  with  this;  then  add  some  white 
and  Vienna  lake  to  make  the  color  4 
shades  lighter  than  the  first;  paint  the 
petals  with  this,  and  shade  with  fine 
Vienna  lake. 

Leaves  are  painted  alternately  with 
verdigris  and  mineral  green  or  with 
chrome-yellow  and  blue.  To  produce 
different  tints  these  colors  must  be 
suitably  mixed.  After  the  wax  ground 


is  painted  the  decoration  must  be  coated 
with  a  very  light  varnish,  prepared  as 
follows :  Dissolve  in  330  parts  of  spirit 
of  wine  133  parts  of  sandarac,  33  parts 
of  mastic  in  grains,  and  16  parts  of 
white  pine  rosin. 

Gold  Ground  upon  Wax.  Take  some 
copal  lacquer,  white  lead,  and  red 
minium  ;  paint  the  flowers  and  decora- 
tions with  this;  allow  it  to  dry  and  then 
!  gild  it, 

Wax  for  Waxing  Threads  to  be  Woven. 
Mix  1  part  of  pulverized  graphite  with 
i  of  pulverized  soapstone  and  li  parts 
of  melted  beeswax.  The  compound, 
when  cold,  is  ready  for  use. 

Wax  Tapers.  Two  wooden  drums 
having  a  diameter  of  71  to  10  inches  are 
required ;  further,  a  trestle  (horse)  with 
two  clamps,  between  which  is  placed 
the  draw-iron  provided  with  holes  of 
different  dimensions.  The  drums,  pro- 
vided with  cranks  for  turning,  stand 
one  on  each  side  of  the  trestle.  Upon 
one  is  wound  the  wick,  which  is  passed 
through  melted  wax  and  then  through 
the  narrow  hole  of  the  draw-iron,  and 
wound  upon  the  other  drum.  It  is 
again  passed  through  melted  wax  and 
a  wider  hole  of  the  draw-iron,  again 
wound  up,  and  this  operation  repeated 
until  it  has  acquired  the  desired  thick- 
ness. The  room  in  which  the  work  is 
done  must  be  moderately  warm,  so  that 
the  wax  is  kept  neither  too  hard  nor  too 
soft.  As  wax  by  itself  is  too  brittle  it 
is  best  to  use  the  following  composition  : 
Yellow  wax  8  parts,  white  rosin  4,  tal- 
low 2,  and  turpentine  2. 

To  White  Wax  add  \  of  its  weight  of 
tallow  and  A  of  Venetian  turpentine. 

For  Coloring  the  Tapers,  vegetable 
colors,  as  indigo,  infusion  of  Brazil 
wood,  an n otto,  etc.,  are  used. 

Wax  Candles.  Mix  1  part  of  white 
wax  and  £  of  tallow.  Insert  the  wick 
in  the  mould,  which  should  stand  accu- 
rately perpendicular,  and,  to  prevent  it 
from  shifting,  fasten  it  in  a  vessel 
standing  under  the  mould.  Then  sat- 
urate the  wick  by  pouring  melted  wax 
over  it,  and,  when  this  coat  has  some- 
what stiffened,  continue  the  pouring 
until  the  desired  thickness  has  been 
obtained.  Cut  off  the  candles  while 
still  warm,  roll  them  smooth  upon  a 
moistened  marble  plate,  and  bleach  in 
the  sun.  The  candles  must  be  moist- 


WOOD— GILDING,  POLISHING,  STAINING,  ETC. 


389 


ened  every  evening  and  turned  daily 
until  they  are  sufficiently  white. 

Floor  Wax.  Boil  5  parts  of  puri- 
fied potash,  20  parts  of  water,  and  25 
parts  of  wax,  stirring  constantly,  until 
a  thickly-fluid  and  homogeneous  com- 
pound has  been  formed,  and  no  more 
watery  fluid  is  separated.  Then  take 
the  ve'ssel  from  the  fire  carefully,  add 
first  a  few  drops  of  boiling  water  and 
then  a  larger  quantity,  so  as  to  form  a 
fat-like  mass,  in  which  no  water  can 
be  detected.  Then  replace  the  vessel 
on  the  fire,  heat  the  compound  without 
allowing  it  to  come  to  a  boil,  and  add 
gradually  and  with  constant  stirring 
400  to  450  parts  of  hot  water. 

Yellow  Floor  Wax  is  obtained  by  an 
addition  of  finely-pulverized  gold  ochre 
to  the  above  composition  ; 

Brown,  by  adding  umber; 

Red,  by  an  addition  of  colcothar; 

Beautiful  Golden  Yellow,  by  adding 
12  parts  of  golden  ochre  and  3  parts  of 
anuotto. 

New  Compound  for  Waxing  Floors. 
Linseed  oil  200  parts,  litharge  20,  wax 
150,  tallow  15,  molasses  190,  lampblack 
103,  oil  of  turpentine  280,  alcohol  35, 
shellac  5,  aniline  violet  2.  Boil  the 
linseed  oil  with  the  litharge  for  1  hour, 
then  melt  the  wax  and  tallow  in  the 
hot  fluid,  add  the  molasses,  and  keep 
the  whole  at  a  temperature  of  230°  to 
248°  F.,  until  all  the  water  is  volatil- 
ized. Then  add  the  lampblack  or  any 
other  coloring  matter,  and,  after  cool- 
ing, the  oil  of  turpentine,  and  finally 
the  shellac  dissolved  in  alcohol  and  the 
aniline  violet. 

Spirit  Lacquer  for  Lacquering  Wax 
Tapers.  Place  25  parts  of  mastic  and 
250  parts  of  sandarac  in  a  fine  sieve, 
and  suspend  the  latter  in  a  tin  vessel 
containing  600  parts  of  alcohol  of  96 
per  cent.,  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
resins  are  just  covered  with  the  alcohol. 
After  24  hours,  when  all  the  resins  will 
be  dissolved,  filter  the  solution. 

Excellent  Modelling  Wax.  Melt 
carefully  over  a  moderate  coal  fire  100 
parts  of  yellow  wax,  and  then  add  13 
parts  of  Venetian  turpentine,  6i  parts 
of  lard,  and  72i  parts  of  elutriated 
bole.  Mix  thoroughly,  pour  the  mixt- 
ure gradually  into  a  vessel  containing 
water,  and  knead  it  several  times  with 
the  hands.  The  wax  must  be  melted  at 


so  low  a  temperature  as  not  to  create 
bubbles. 


WOOD— GILDING,  POLISHING,  STAIN- 
ING, ETC. 

Extraction  and  Impregnation  of 
Sounding-board  Wood.  The  object 
of  the  invention  is  to  remove  the  soft 
rosin  from  the  wood  and  replace  it  by 
a  hard  resinous  substance.  The  ex- 
traction is  accomplished  by  placing 
the  boards  for  4  hours  in  petroleum 
ether,  and  then  drying  them  in  the 
shade  in  the  open  air.  To  replace  the 
extracted  natural  rosin  by  a  hard  resin- 
ous substance  the  boards  are  placed  for 
2  days  in  a  holder  containing  a  spirit 
varnish  composed  of  glassy  co]*al,  sand- 
arac, pulverized  glass,  and  aloes.  The 
boards  are  then  dried  and  are  ready 
for  use. 

To  Prepare  Sounding-board  Wood. 
The  wood  to  be  prepared  is  strongly 
heated  for  12  hours  in  a  hermetically- 
closed  boiler,  K  (Fig.  53).  The  boiler 
is  then  opened  for  a  few  hours  and  the 
wood,  slightly  heated,  exposed  to  the 
action  of  ozone.  The  oxygen  is  gener- 
ated in  the  reservoir  A,  which,  like  the 
boiler  K,  is  lined  with  charnotte*  to 
protect  it  against  the  action  of  the 
oxygen,  and  ozonized  in  the  boiler  K 
by  electrical  sparks.  By  this  process 
the  resinous  and  fatty  constituents  of 
the  wood  are  extracted. 

To  Make  Wood  Flexible  and  Fire- 
proof. To  accomplish  this  the  rosins 
contained  in  the  wood  are  saponified, 
and  the  acids  neutralized  with  alkalies 
obtained  from  wood  ash.  Although 
all  alkaline  combinations  possess  the 
property  of  rendering  vegetable  sub- 
stances more  or  less  flexible  and  fire- 
proof, the  carbonates  are  preferable ; 
they  are  used  in  the  following  manner : 
Dissolve  carbonate  of  potassium  or 
sodium  in  cold  clear  water,  and  add 
calcium  hydrate  to  the  solution.  Then 
immerse  the  boards  or  timber  in  the 
alkaline  solution  until  a  coating  A  to 
i  inch  thick  has  been  formed,  which 
will  require  about  5  to  12  hours.  A 


*  Chamotteis  a  mixture  of  nnburnt  fire-clay 
and  dust  of  fire-bricks,  glass  pots,  or  seggara,— 


390 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


Fig.  53. 


coating  J  inch  thick  suffices  to  render 
building  timber  fire-proof,  but  in  case 
great  flexibility  with  absolute  non- 
inflammability  is  desired,  a  thicker 
coating  or  even  an  entire  saturation  of 
the  timber  will  be  necessary,  which  is 
accomplished  by  hydraulic  pressure. 

Thin  veneers  of  any  dense,  veined 
wood  treated  in  the  above  manner  can 
be  rendered  sufficiently  flexible  to  re- 
semble tanned  leather.  To  attain  this 
result  immerse  the  veneers  in  the  alka- 
line solution  for  a  sufficiently  long 
time  to  acquire  a  transparent  appear- 
ance, which  will  require  from  15  to  40 
minutes,  according  to  their  nature  and 
thickness.  They  are  then  allowed  to 
dry,  and  rolled  and  pressed  between 
steel  cylinders  or  plates.  Veneers 
treated  in  this  manner  can  be  used  for 
many  purposes  instead  of  leather,  and 
are  especially  well  adapted  for  chair 
bottoms,  wainscoting,  etc. 

To  Render  Wood  Incombustible  and 
Impermeable.  Folbacci  uses  a  process 
by  which  wood  is,  so  to  say,  petrified 
without  losing  its  ordinary  appearance. 
It  will  bear  any  degree  of  heat  without 
the  primary  substance  suffering  any 
change,  except  the  formation  of  an  ex- 
traordinarily thin  charred  coating, 
which  falls  off  on  the  lightest  touch. 
The  process  is  as  follows :  Heat  in  a 


boiler  55  parts  of  water  to  113°  F.,  and 
then  add  55  parts  of  sulphate  of  zinc, 
22  of  potash,  44  of  alum,  and  22  of 
manganic  oxide.  When  all  are  dis- 
solved, add  gradually  22  parts  of  sul- 
phuric acid  of  60°,  until  the  compound 
is  thoroughly  saturated.  Then  place 
the  pieces  of  wood  into  the  compound 
in  such  a  manner  that  they  lie  about 
2  inches  apart,  allowing  them  to  re- 
main for  3  hours,  and  then  dried  in  the 
open  air. 

To  Render  Wood  Fire-proof.  Boil 
the  wood  first  in  a  solution  of  potas- 
sium sulphate  and,  after  drying,  heat  it 
together  with  a  mixture  of  coal-tar  and 
argillaceous  admixtures,  by  which  it 
acquires  a  durable  coating  of  a  mixt- 
ure of  asbestos  and  fire-clay.  Heat  the 
wood  thus  treated  in  a  steam -vat  be- 
tween layers  of  clay,  whereby  the  coat- 
ing is  firmly  united  with  the  wood. 
Timber  prepared  in  this  manner  is  fire 
and  weather-proof,  and  well  adapted 
for  building  purposes. 

To  Render  Wood'  Impermeable  to 
Water.  Even  the  softest  kind  of  wood, 
as  that  of  the  poplar  and  lime  tree,  can 
be  made  water-proof  by  the  following 
process :  Coat  the  article  several  times 
with  hot  linseed-oil  varnish,  and  finally 
apply  quite  a  thick  layer  of  polish. 
Wooden  gutters  for  holding  water  for 


WOOD— GILDING,  POLISHING,  STAINING,   ETC. 


591 


moistening  the  threads  in  throwing  silk 
and  thread  were  made  water-proof  in 
this  manner. 

How  Oziers  can  be  Peeled  in  Winter. 
Steam  the  oziers  for  10  to  14  minutes  in 
a  closed  cylinder,  and  then  place  them 
for  24  hours  in  water  of  about  100°  F. 

Staining  Wood  for  Fine  Cabinet 
Work.  Denninger,  of  Mayence,  has 
made  a  series  of  experiments  in  staining 
maple  wood.  Of  the  coloring  matters 
used  he  prefers  decidedly  the  alcoholic 
extracts  to  aqueous  decoctions,  since,  on 
account  of  the  woods  having  to  remain 
longer  in  the  decoction,  the  pores  are 
opened  too  widely  and  the  coloring  mat- 
ter penetrates  too  deeply  into  the  soft 
parts  of  the  wood,  while  the  hard  parts 
remain  almost  untouched.  For  soft 
varieties  of  wood  aqueous  coloring  ex- 
tracts must  therefore  be  entirely  avoided. 
Denninger  advises  also  against  the  use 
of  strong  acids,  as  aqua  fortis,  hydro- 
chloric and  sulphuric  acids,  since  the 
slightest  excess  of  these  acids  exerts 
later  on  an  injurious  and  frequently 
destroying  effect  upon  the  polish.  The 
alcoholic  extracts  are  of  course  more 
expensive  than  the  aqueous  decoctions, 
but  they  furnish  a  more  uniform  and 
intense  coloring  and  go  a  great  deal 
further. 

Denninger  made  use  of  the  following 
coloring  matters  and  other  materials  : 

a.  Gallic  Acid.    This  is  prepared  by 
pouring  ordinary  spirit  of  wine  over 
pulverized   black  or  white  gall-nuts, 
allowing  the    mixture  to  stand  in  a 
warm  place  for  a  few  days,  stirring 
frequently,  and  then  straining  it. 

b.  Sulphate  of  Iron.     Roast  it  in  an 
iron  pan  over  a  coal  fire  until  it  turns 
reddish ;   when  cold  pulverize  it,  and 
pour  spirit  of  wine  over  it. 

c.  Logwood  Shavings,    d.  Pulverized 
Sander swood.    e.  Saffron  and  Annotto. 
Pour  spirit  of   wine  over  them    and 
treat  the  tincture  as  given  under  a. 

d.  Shavings  of  .Brazil  Wood,  and  g.  of 
Fustic,     h.  Crushed  Persian   Berries. 
Pour  water  over  them  and  use  the  in- 
fusion cold. 

e.  Pulverized     Cochineal.      Boil     it 
with  double  its  weight  of  spirit  of  am- 
monia and  water  in  a  water-bath  until 
the  spirit  of  ammonia  is  volatilized; 
then  mix  the  fluid  with  spirit  of  wine, 
and  filter. 


/.  Aqueous  Decoction  of  Logwood 
is  compounded  with  some  solution  of 
alum  in  water.  The  precipitate  formed 
is  collected  upon  a  paper  filter,  dried 
and  formed  into  a  paste  with  a  few 
drops  of  hydrochloric  acid,  and  then 
dissolved  in  spirit  of  wine. 

g.  Pulverized  Indigo.  Dissolve  in- 
digo in  four  times  its  own  weight  of 
fuming  sulphuric  acid,  allow  the  solu- 
tion t©  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  a  few 
days  and  then  dilute  it  with  water. 

h.  Solution  of  Tin.  Dissolve  50 
parts  of  granulated  tin  by  boiling  in  50 
parts  of  hydrochloric  acid  ;  or,  A1,  dis- 
solve 33J  parts  of  granulated  tin  by 
boiling  it  in  50  parts  of  hydrochloric 
acid.  And  also  ^  to  i  ounce  each  of 
the  following  salts:  i.  Alum.  j.  Potas- 
sium bichromate,  k.  Potassium  ferro~ 
cyanide,  and  /.  Sulphate  of  copper. 
Dissolve  the  salts  in  so  much  water 
that  a  part  of  them  remains  undis- 
solved  on  the  bottom  of  the  vessel. 

In  the  following  we  give  a  number 
of  colors  and  the  materials  used  by 
Denninger  in  producing  them : 

Blue.  Dilute  a  solution  of  indigo 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water. 

Bluish-brown.  Dilute  a  solution  of 
logwood  extract  with  spirit  of  wine, 
and  add  some  solution  of  tin  (h1). 

Bluish-gray.  Dilute  a  solution  of 
cochineal  strongly  with  spirit  of  wine, 
and  add  solution  of  indigo. 

Blue-black.  Dilute  a  solution  of  ex- 
tract of  logwood  with  spirit  of  wine, 
and  add  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron. 

Brown.  Mix  equal  parts  of  solution 
of  extract  of  logwood  and  solution  of 
saffron,  dilute  with  spirit  of  wine,  and 
add  some  solution  of  tin  (k.). 

Brownish-red.  Mix  a  decoction  of 
Brazil  wood  with  some  solution  of 
tin  (A1). 

Crimson.  Dilute  a  solution  of  cochi- 
neal with  spirit  of  wine. 

Dark  Gray.  Use  first  extract  of  gall 
nuts,  then  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron, 
and  finally  indigo  solution  diluted  with 
water. 

Greenish.  Extract  of  saffron  with 
an  addition  of  some  indigo  solution. 

Green.  Same  as  above  with  an  addi- 
tion of  more  indigo. 

Gretnisk-gray.  Mix  decoctions  of 
gall  nuts,  sulphate  of  iron,  and  fustic 
with  some  solution  of  indigo. 


TSCIINO-CIIEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK, 


Yellowish-  gray.  Decocti  on  of  Persi  a  n 
berries  mixed  with  some  solution  of 
sulphate  of  iron. 

Light  Brown.  Sulphate  of  copper 
dissolved  in  water,  then  solution  of 
potassium  ferrocyanicle  in  water  with 
an  addition  of  some  hydrochloric  acid. 

Cherry-red.  Decoction  of  Brazil 
wood  diluted  witli  spirit  of  wine,  and 
then  solution  of  tin  (A.). 

Orange.  An  notto  or  saffron  dissolved 
in  spirit  of  wine. 

Red.  Solution  of  cochineal  mixed 
with  solution  of  saffron. 

Red-brown.  Dissolve  precipitate  of 
logwood  (/.)  in  spirit  of  wine  com- 
pounded with  some  hydrochloric  acid. 

Rose  Color.  Compound  a  solution 
of  cochineal  with  some  alum  water. 

Straw  Color.  Use  first  decoction  of 
Persian  berries  and  next  solution  of 
tin  (h.)  much  diluted  with  water. 

Other  Stains  on  Wood.  Thimm's 
Patent.  The  woods  are  painted  with 
suitable  concentrated  solution  of  metal- 
lic salts,  and  then  thoroughly  dried, 
which  will  require  about  12  hours. 
They  are  then  placed  in  a  closed  room 
into  which  gases,  as  sulphide  of  hydro- 
gen, ammonia,  etc.,  are  introduced 
according  to  the  combination  to  be  pro- 
duced. 

By  using  sulphide  of  hydrogen  the 
following  colors  are  obtained  : 

Brown  from  bismuth  sulphide  formed 
from  bismuth  nitrates. 

Yellow  from  cadmium  sulphide 
formed  from  solutions  of  cadmium  sul- 
phate. 

Golden  Yellow  from  stannic  sulphide 
formed  from  solutions  of  stannous 
chloride  (tin  salt). 

Iron  Gray  to  Brown  from  lead  mono- 
sulphide  formed  from  a  solution  of 
acetate  of  lead. 

Green  from  chromium  sesquioxide 
formed  from  solutions  of  chromic  acid. 

Red  from  antimony  trisulphide 
f  >rmed  from  solutions  of  antimony. 

The  cost  of  this  process  is  very  small, 
since  2  pounds  of  any  of  the  solutions 
will  cover  100  square  feet  of  wood  sur- 
face. The  woods  can  also  be  provided 
with  various  designs  in  any  color  de- 
sired. The  colors  are  not  affected  by 
air,  light,  or  water. 

The  very  cheap  solution  of  ferric 
hydrate  in  ferric  chloride  is  used  for 


completely  saturating  floors,  staif -steps, 
and  other  articles  subjected  to  strong 
wear,  which  are  then  colored  by  means 
of  ammonia.  Wood  thus  treated  is 
also  far  less  inflammable  than  when 
painted. 

Black  Ground  for  Lacquering.  Grind 
fine  ivory-black  in  shellac- varnish  upon 
a  sione  slab  with  a  muller  until  a  per- 
fectly smooth  varnish  is  obtained.  The 
following  directions  give  good  black 
grounds : 

I.  One  pound  each  of  asphaltum 
and  copaiba  balsam  and  the  necessary 
quantity  of  turpentine.  Melt  the 
asphaltum  over  a  fire,  then  add  the 
balsam  previously  heated,  and  finally 
the  oil  of  turpentine.  II.  Moisten 
lampblack  with  oil  of  turpentine  and 
rub  it  very  fine  upon  the  stone  with  a 
muller.  Then  add  ordinary  copal 
varnish  and  mix  all  thoroughly.  III. 
Take  3  ounces  of  asphaltum,  4  quarts 
of  boiled  linseed-oil,  8  ounces  of  burnt 
umber,  and  some  turpentine.  Melt  the 
asphaltum,  stir  the  oil  previously  heated 
into  it,  then  the  umber,  and,  when  cool, 
dilute  the  mixture  with  turpentine. 
IV.  An  extra  black  is  obtained  from  12 


ounces  of  umber,  2  ounces  of  purified 

spl 
oil,  2  ounces  of  rosin,  and  IV  pints  of 


asphaltum,   £   pint  of   boiled  linseed- 


turpentine.  Melt  the  asphaltum  and 
rosin  together,  add  the  oil  in  a  hot 
state,  stir  thoroughly,  and  then  mix 
the  turpentine  with  it.  V.  A  white 
ground  is  obtained  by  mixing  equal 
parts  of  copal  varnish  and  zinc  white 
or  starch. 

To  Stain  Walking  Canes.  I.  Apply 
to  the  sticks  in  a  natural  state  a  more 
or  less  concentrated  solution  of  calcium 
hydrate  in  water,  according  as  the  stain 
is" to  be  more  or  less  dark. 

II.  Dissolve  iron  filings  in  sulphuric 
acid,  apply  the  solution  to  the  sticks  in 
a  natural  state,  and  burn  them  at  once 
over  a  fire  of  wood  shavings.  This 
burning  must  be  done  thoroughly,  as 
stains,  spoiling  the  work,  will  be 
formed  in  case  any  places  remain  un- 
touched by  the  fire. 

To  Stain  Maple  Wood  Silver-gray. 
I.  Upon  the  bottom  of  a  water-tight  box 
place  a  layer  of  grindstone  sand  (from 
the  troughs  of  grindstones)  upon  this 
wood,  and  then  again  a  layer  of  grind- 
stone sand.  Then  pour  over  it  sufficient 


WOOD— GILDING,  POLISHING,  STAINING,  ETC. 


393 


rain  water  to  cover  the  Avhole,  and 
place  the  box  in  a  warm  place  for  3  to 
5  weeks.  Eeplace  occasionally  the 
water  lost  by  evaporation,  so  that  the 
wood  is  never  dry.  By  this  process  a 
beautiful  silver-gray  color  is  produced 
on  maple  and  lime  wood. 

II.  Place  the  wood  for  3  to  4  hours 
in  a  decoction  of  1  part  of  pulverized 
gall  nuts  in  10  of  water,  and  then  for  1 
hour   in  a  solution  of  1   part  of  sul- 
phate of  iron  in  60  of  cold  water,  and 
then  brush  it  off  with  a  soft  brush  dipped 
in  a  solution  of  1  part  of  alum  in  18  of 
water,   and  allow  it  to   dry.     Should 
the  color  be  too  light  repeat  the  process, 
but  allowing  it  to  remain  in  the  baths 
only  a  few  minutes. 

III.  Pour   sharp  vinegar  over  iron 
filings  and  alum,  and  brush  the  wood 
over  with  the  solution  until  the  desired 
silver  color  is  obtained.      Gall    nuts 
converted  into  coarse  powder  may  also 
be  used  in  place  of  the  iron  filings. 

IV.  Dissolve  verdigris  in  vinegar  or 
crystallized    verdigris    in    water,   and 
paint  the  wood  with  the  solution  until 
it  has  acquired  the  tint  desired.    The 
solution  may  be  used  either  warm  or 
cold. 

Ebony  Stains.  To  prepare  a  very 
fine  ebony  stain  applicable  especially 
to  pear  or  walnut  woods  boil  40  parts 
of  gall  nuts,  4  parts  of  rasped  logwood, 
5  parts  each  of  sulphate  of  iron  and 
verdigris  with  water,  strain  through 
linen  and  apply  the  warm  fluid  to  the 
wood,  and  then  give  it  3  coats  of  a  warm 
solution  of  10  parts  of  iron  filings  in  75 
parts  of  vinegar. 

For  Veneers  which  are  to  be  stained 
through  and  through  place  16  parts  of 
sal-ammoniac  and  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  steel  filings  in  an  earthenware  pot, 
pour  strong  vinegar  over  them,  and  let 
it  stand  for  14  days  in  a  moderately 
warm  oven.  Then  pour  sharp  lye  into 
another  pot,  add  gall  nuts  converted 
into  a  coarse  powder  and  shavings  of 
blue  Brazil  wood,  and  let  the  whole 
stand  in  a  warm  place  for  a  few  days. 
This  gives  an  excellent  stain. 

Boil  the  veneers  for  a  few  hours  in 
the  first  stain  of  sal-ammoniac  and 
steel  filings,  and  let  them  remain 
therein  for  3  days.  Then  place  them 
in  the  second  s'tain,  and  proceed  in 
the  same  manner  as  with  the  first. 


In  case  the  veneers  should  not  be  en- 
tirely colored  through  repeat  the  opera, 
tion. 

Stain  for  Floors.  Boil  25  parts  of 
fustic  and  12*  of  Brazil  wood  with  1000 
parts  of  soap-boiler's  lye,  to  which  has 
been  added  12V  parts  of  potash.  When 
the  liquid  is  boiled  down  to  700  or  800 
parts,  add  3J  parts  of.annotto  and  75 
parts  of  wax,  and  when  this  is  melted 
stir  the  compound  until  it  is  cold.  It 
is  of  a  brown-red  color,  and  the  above 
quantity  suffices  to  keep  a  floor  in  good 
condition  for  a  year  by  applying  it 
once  a  week,  and  rubbing  it  on"  with  a 
brush. 

Staining  Wood  for  Veneers,  Mosaics, 
etc.  Treat  the  wood  for  24  hours  with 
a  10  per  cent,  caustic  soda-lye,  then 
boil  it  therein  for  half  an  hour  and 
wash  it  to  remove  the  alkali.  This 
prepares  the  wood  for  the  reception  of 
the  color.  Dry  the  wood  with  filtering 
paper  and  press  it  to  preserve  the  shape. 
Then  immerse  it  for  24  hours  in  a  dye- 
bath  consisting  of  ^  dye-wood  and  5 
liquid,  turn  it  occasionally,  and  throw 
it  in  a  bath  of  1  part  of  sulphate  of  iron 
to  3  of  water,  and  the  result  will  be  a 
beautiful  black. 

Yellow  is  obtained  with  1  part  of 
picric  acid  dissolved  in  60  of  water. 

Various  Rose-colored  Tints  by  add- 
ing a  little  caustic  soda  to  coralline. 

Red  Stain.  Immerse  the  wood  in  a 
solution  of  3J  parts  of  Marseilles  soup 
in  100  of  water,  and  then  apply  aniline 
red  sufficiently  diluted  to  give  the 
desired  tint. 

Violet.  Treat  the  wood  in  a  bath 
consisting  of  12 J  parts  of  olive  oil,  a 
like  quantity  of  calcined  soda,  and  125 
parts  of  boiling  water;  then  stain  with 
aniline  red  to  which  tin  salt  has  been 
added. 

Blue  is  produced  in  the  same  manner, 
except  that  aniline  blue  is  used  as  a 
stain. 

Green.  Mordant  the  wood  first  with 
a  solution  of  aluminium  acetate  of 
1°  B.,  and  then  place  it  in  a  decoction 
of  Persian  berries  and  indigo-carmine. 
Quercitron  may  also  be  used  in  place 
of  Persian  berries. 

Bright  Red.  Boil  for  3  hours  6J  parts 
of  cochineal  ground  veryfine  in  100 
parts  of  water,  and  paint  the  wood  with 
the  solution.  When  dry  apply  a  coat 


394 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


of  a  solution  3:V  parts  of  tin-sa2t  and  1J 
parts  of  tartaric  acid  in  100  parts  of 
water. 

Brown  in  Various  Tints  is  produced 
by  mordanting  the  wood  with  potas- 
sium bichromate,  and  applying  later  on 
decoctions  of  fustic,  logwood,  or  Brazil 
wood. 

Mower's  Method  of  Staining  Wood 
Rose  Color  by  Chemical  Precipitation, 
Wood,  and  also  vegetable  ivory,  can  be 
colored  rose-red  without  much  difficulty 
by  chemical  precipitation.  The  result- 
ing color  is  very  brilliant  and  uniform. 

First  Bath.  This  consists  of  8  parts 
of  potassium  iodide  to  100  parts  of 
water. 

Second  Bath.  Two  and  one-half 
parts  of  corrosive  sublimate  to  100  parts 
of  water. 

Immerse  the  wood  for  a  few  hours  in 
the  first  bath.  Then  place  it  in  the 
second,  in  which  it  will  acquire  a 
beautiful  rose-red  color.  The  wood, 
after  drying,  is  varnished.  Both  baths 
can  be  repeatedly  used  without  renew- 
ing them. 

New  Polish  for  Wood.  Compound 
an  alcoholic  solution  of  3  parts  of  shel- 
lac with  a  solution  of  100  parts  of  collo- 
dion cotton  and  50  parts  of  camphor  in 
ethyl  alcohol.  For  finishing  use  a 
mixture  of  benzole  and  alcohol. 

Moody's  New  Polish  consists  of  8 
parts  of  rectified  wood  spirit,  1£  of 
shellac,  and  i  of  benzoin,  and  if  desired 
l^s  of  dragon's-blood  may  be  added. 
Dissolve  the  ingredients  by  heating, 
and  filter  the  solution  through  flannel. 
Apply  with  a  eameFs-hair  brush. 

Gilding  on  Wood.  The  gilding  on 
wood,  called  oil  gold,  cannot  be  bur- 
nished, aud  is  always  of  the  natural 
color  of  unwrought  gold.  It  has  the 
advantage  that  it  may  be  washed  and 
cleansed  with  water,  which  burnished 
gold  will  not  stand.  It  is  often  used  for 
parts  of  furniture  and  mouldings  of 
rooms,  and  as  it  stands  the  weather  it 
is  also  employed  for  outside  work. 
The  surface  to  be  gilded  must  first  be 
rubbed  smooth  with  shave  grass.  After 
this  apply  a  priming  of  glue  size  and 
two  coats  of  oil  paint  and  one  of  flat- 
ting. To  enrich  the  color  of  the  gold 
these  last  may  be  laid  down  in  red  or 
yellow.  White,  however,  is  usually 
preferred,  as  the  darker  color  renders 


any  imperfection  in  the  gold-sizing 
more  difficult  to  detect.  When  the 
last  coat  of  paint  is  thoroughly  dry, 
rub  it  over  with  wash  leather  to  render 
it  smooth  and  free  from  dust  and  grit. 
If  any  patterns  or  figures  are  to  be  left 
ungilded,  they  should  be  lightly 
pounced  over  with  white  to  prevent  the 
gold-leaf  adhering  to  them.  Another 
way  is  to  paint  them  over  with  the 
white  of  egg  diluted  with  water.  If 
any  gold  sticks  to  this  it  can  be  easily 
washed  or  wiped  oif  with  a  moistened 
linen  cloth.  When  all  is  ready  for 
sizing  strain  sufficient  size  through 
muslin,  and  put  some  out  on  the  palette, 
adding  to  it  enough  ochre  or  vermilion, 
mixed  with  oil  alone,  to  color.  Then 
with  a  stiff  hog-hair  tool  commence 
painting  it  on  the  surface,  taking  care 
to  lay  it  on  smoothly  and  not  too  thick, 
as  in  the  latter  case  it  runs  and  leaves 
wrinkles  .in  the  gilding.  Size  always 
from  left  to  right,  beginning  on  the  top 
of  the  surface,  and  working  downward. 
Move  the  brush  lightly  and  firmly, 
mapping  out  the  surface  to  be  sized 
into  several  squares,  and  finishing  and 
cross-hatching  each  before  proceeding 
onwards.  If  there  are  patterns  to  be  left 
ungilded,  carefully  trace  round  their 
outline  with  a  sable  pencil,  and  then 
fill  in  the  interstices.  When  the 
whole  surface  is  covered  with  size,  give 
it  a  thorough  inspection  to  make  sure 
there  is  no  faulty  portion,  and  if  there 
is,  delicately  touch  in  the  size  with  a 
small  pencil.  When  very  perfect  gild- 
ing is  required  it  should  be  sized  twice, 
the  first  coat  being  allowed  to  dry 
thoroughly  before  the  second  is  applied. 
In  carved  work  be  careful  to  dip  the 
brush  down  into  the  hollows  of  the 
carving.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  size  over 
night  so  as  to  gild  in  the  morning.  But 
all  size  does  not  dry  alike,  sometimes 
taking  12  to  24  or  30  hours  before  it  is 
ready  for  the  gold-leaf,  in  damp  weather 
or  locations  always  more  than  in  dry. 
The  readiness  of  the  size  can  only  be 
ascertained  by  the  touch.  If  on  being 
touched  by  the  finger  the  surface  daubs 
or  comes  off  it  is  not  ready,  but  if  it 
feels  clammy  and  sticky  it  is  sufficiently 
dry.  If  too  dry  it  must  be  sized  again. 
The  books  of  gold-leaf 'should  always 
be  placed  before  a  fire  half  an  hour 
previous  to  use,  in  order  to  dry  the 


WOOD-GILDING,  POLISHING,  STAINING,  ETC. 


395 


gold  and  make  it  more  manageable.  | 
When  all  is  ready,  shake  out  several  | 
leaves  upon  the  gold  cushion,  and  blow 
them  towards  the  parchment  screen. 
Then  carefully  raise  one  leaf  with  the 
blade  of  a  knife,  and  place  it  on  the 
cushion,  gently  breathing  on  it  to 
flatten  it  out.  If  it  curls  up,  work  it 
about  with  the  knife-blade  until  it  lies 
flat.  Then  replace  the  knife  in  its  loop 
under  the  cushion,  and  taking  the  tip 
pass  it  lightly  over  your  hair,  thus 
acquiring  sufficient  greasiness  to  enable 
the  gold  to  stick  to  it.  Lay  the  hairy 
portion  of  the  tip  upon  the  gold-leaf, 
and  then  raising  it  apply  it  to  the 
sized  surface.  As  in  sizing,  work  from 
left  to  right,  and  be  especially  careful 
to  let  each  leaf  overlap  slightly,  so  as 
to  avoid  gaps  and  spaces.  Lay  on 
whole  leaves  as  far  as  the  space  permits, 
and  then  proceed  to  gild  the  curves  and 
corners  which  need  smaller  pieces. 
Place  a  leaf  flat  and  smooth  on  the 
cushion,  and  then  taking  the  knife  in 
the  right  hand  draw  the  edge  easily 
and  evenly  along  it  with  a  gentle  press- 
ure. Divide  the  leaf  into  as  many 
pieces  as  required,  and  lay  on  as  before. 
When  all  the  ground  is  complete  inspect 
it  carefully  to  make  sure  there  are  no 
portions  ungilt,  however  small,  and 
mend  them  at  once.  Next  take  a  piece 
of  cotton-wool  and  gently  dab  or  press 
the  gold  down  all  over,  finally  brushing 
off  the  superfluous  pieces  either  with 
cotton-wool  or  a  camel's-hair  brush.  It 
is  a  good  plan  to  stipple  the  gold  with 
a  large  stiff  hog-bristle  tool,  quite  dry 
and  clean,  as  this  gradually  softens  and 
removes  the  marks  of  joining  and  other 
little  imperfections.  Finally  smooth 
the  gold  with  a  clean  piece  of  wash- 
leather,  and  it  is  completed.  With 
regard  to  gilding  with  japanner's  size 
the  same  instructions  apply,  except  as 
to  the  time  necessary  to  wait  between 
sizing  and  gilding.  If  japanner's  size 
is  used  pure,  it  will  be  ready  in  from 
20  to  30  minutes,  but  better  gilding  can 
be  made  by  mixing  one-third  oil  size 
with  two-thirds  of  japanner's  size.  This 
will  be  ready  in  about  2  to  4  hours 
from  the  time  of  putting  on.  When  all 
the  gilding  is  finished,  dilute  1  part  of 
very  clean  and  pure  parchment  size 
with  2  parts  of  water,  and  brush  it  over 
the  entire  surface  of  the  gold  to  enrich 


and  preserve  it.  If  it  is  necessary  to 
gild  in  a  position  much  exposed  to 
touch,  as  the  base  of  a  pillar  or  string- 
courses, it  is  as  well  to  give  the  gold  a 
coat  of  mastic  varnish  thinned  with 
turpentine.  There  are  various  pro- 
cesses which  tend  to  enrich  and  vary 
the  effect  of  gilding.  Glazings  of  trans- 
parent colors  are  sometimes  applied  for 
the  purpose  of  deadening  its  lustre. 
Raw  sienna  passed  thinly  over  a  sheet 
of  gold  gives  it  a  leathery  appearance. 
A  good  effect  may  be  produced  by 
stencilling  a  small  pattern  in  umber, 
sienna,  or  Indian  red  over  gold,  es- 
pecially if  there  is  foliage  or  arabesque 
work  upon  the  gilding,  as  the  small 
design  affords  an  agreeable  relief.  This 
is  the  easiest  mode  of  gilding;  any 
other  metallic  leaves  can  be  applied  in 
a  similar  manner. 

American  Process  of  Preserving 
Wood.  The  wood,  while  immersed  in 
a  bath  of  creosote,  is  subjected  to  a 
temperature  above  the  boiling  point  of 
water  and  below  300°  F.  until  all  the 
moisture  is  expelled.  When  the  water 
is  thus  expelled  the  pores  contain  only 
steam ;  the  hot  oil  is  then  quickly  re- 
placed by  a  bath  of  cold  oil  which  con- 
denses steam  in  the  pores,  and  forms  a 
vacuum  into  which  the  oil  is  forced  by 
atmospheric  pressure  and  capillary  at- 
traction. A  wooden  platform  thor- 
oughly creosoted  will  last  twenty  4;o 
thirty  years,  and  be  better  than  a  stone 
platform  during  that  entire  period. 

Preparation  of  Mine-timber.  Ex- 
periments on  a  large  scale  have  been 
made  at  the  Commenlry  Coal  Mines  in 
France  in  regard  to  mine-timber  im- 
pregnated with  different  substances. 
The  experiments  were  executed  at  the 
same  time  with  different  varieties  of 
wood,  the  following  table  giving  the 
result  of  all  the  experiments : 

Relative  Durability  of  the  Timbers : 

Without  preparation 1.00 

After  immersion  in  the  mine-water    .     .     1.40 

Charred 2.44 

Impregnated  with  tar 7.42 

"          sulphate  of  copper     .    9.77 
"          sulphate  of  iron     .     .  11.11 

"  "          creosote 16.36 

"  "          chloride  of  zinc      .     .34.00 

Unprepared  oak  wood  lasted  at  an 
average  4}  years,  beech  wood  2,  pine, 
cherry,  and  poplar  woods  H,  and  acacia 


396 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


wood  6  to  9  months.  Of  the  different 
varieties  of  tar,  wood  tar  gave  the  best 
results,  but  its  high  price  prevents  its 
general  use.  Tar  gained  from  peat 
gave  less  favorable  results,  but  better 
than  coal-tar.  The  French  experiments 
showed  that  while  the  durability  of  oak 
timber  was  considerably  increased  and 
sometimes  doubled  by  an  impregnation 
with  coal-tar,  that  of  pine  was  but  little 
augmented,  it  making  no  difference 
whether  the  tar  was  used  in  a  cold 
state  or  heated  to  284°  F.  The  use  of 
sulphate  of  iron  gave  the  following  re- 
sults :  1.  While  unprepared  oak 
showed  signs  of  decay  after  2  years, 
impregnated  with  sulphate  of  iron  it 
lasted  30  years.  2.  Immersing  the 
timber  for  24  hours  in  a  solution  con- 
taining 20  parts  of  sulphate  of  iron  to 
100  parts  of  water  gives  just  as  good  re- 
sults as  a  longer  immersion  in  a  stronger 
solution.  3.  The  action  of  a  solution 
of  sulphate  of  iron  is  just  as  effective 
on  green  as  on  seasoned  wood,  and 
alike  on  oak  and  pine  woods.  The 
impregnation  with  sulphate  of  iron  costs 
about  4  cent  per  running  foot  of  timber. 

The  experiments  seem  to  prove  con- 
clusively that  sulphate  of  iron  is  to  be 
preferred  for  impregnating  mine-tim- 
ber. The  apparatus  required  for  pre- 
paring 100  pieces  of  mine-timber  daily 
costs,  with  all  appurtenances,  about 
1860  francs  ($372). 

Shrinking  of  Wood.  It  is  of  impor- 
tance for  every  mechanic  to  know  the 
percentage  of  shrinkage  in  wood.  In 
the  following  table,  I.  gives  the  per- 
centage of  shrinkage  in  the  direction 
of  the  fibres ;  II.  in  the  direction  of  the 
semi-diameter  of  the  trunk,  and  III.  in 
vertical  direction : 


Wood. 

bs.  per 

Wood.               lb'Per 

sq.  in. 

sq.  ill. 

Ash     . 

6280 

Maple       .     .     .     6355 

Beech       . 

5223 

Oak  (white)       .     4425 

Birch 

5.W5 

"    (live)      .     .     8480 

Cedar  (whit 

) 

1445 

Pine  (white)      .     2480 

"     (Cent 

al 

"    (yellow 

American) 

3410 

Northern)   .     .     4340 

Cherry     . 

2(J45 

Pine  (yellow 

Chestnut 

1535 

Southern)   .     .     5735 

Dogwood 

6510 

Pine  (yellow, 

Ebony 

7750 

very  resinous)      5053 

Gum 

5890 

Poplar      .     .     .     4418 

Hemlock 

2750 

Spruce      .     .     .     3255 

Hickory 

P045 

7285 

Walnut  (black)      4728 
'  '      (com- 

Locust     . 

7176 

mon)     .     .     .     2830 

I. 

II. 

III. 

Hornbeam  (iron  wood) 
Beech 

0.21 
0  20 

6.82 
5  25 

8.00 
7  03 

Field  maple  .... 
Elm 

0.00 
005 

2.03 
3  85 

2.97 
4  10 

Maple  

0.11 

2  06 

4  13 

Birch    .     . 

0  50 

3  05 

3  19 

Oak      

0.00 

2.65 

4.13 

\sh       .     .     . 

0.26 

5  35 

6  90 

Aspen 

0  00 

3.97 

3  33 

Kound-leaved  willow  . 
Lime    

0.00 
0.10 

2.07 
5.73 

1.90 

7.17 

Pine           .     . 

000 

2.49 

2  87 

Pitch  pine 
Alder    

0.09 
0.30 

2.08 
3.16 

2.62 

4.15 

Strength  of  some  American  Woods, 
In  view  of  the  frequent  use  of  wooden 
pins,  J.  C.  Trautwine  made  experi- 
ments by  which  cylindrical  pins  |  inch 
diameter  were  sheared  off.  Each  sam- 
ple was  subjected  to  two  tests;  where 
the  difference  was  not  more  than  10 
per  cent,  the  average  is  given.  The 
principal  results  were  as  follows : 


Hard  Coating  for  Wood.  To  coat 
wood  with  a  substance  as  hard  as  stone 
mix  intimately  40  parts  of  lime,  50  of 
resin,  and  4  of  linseed  oil,  and  add  1 
part  each  of  cupric  oxide  and  sulphuric 
acid.  Apply  the  hot  mixture  with  a 
brush. 

Imitation  of  Cedar  Wood.  To  give 
soft,  white  wood  used  for  turned  arti- 
cles and  lead-pencils  the  appearance 
of  cedar  wood  the  following  stain  is 
used:  Two  hundred  parts  by  weight 
of  catechu,  100  of  caustic  soda,  and 
10,000  of  water.  The  finished  article  is 
boiled  in  the  stain  for  a  few  hours, 
rinsed,  and  dried.  If  not  sufficiently 
deep  in  color  boil  for  some  time 
longer. 

This  stain  penetrates  the  wood  so 
deeply  that  veneers  of  considerable 
thickness  will  be  penetrated  through 
and  through,  so  that  articles  made  from 
it  can  be  afterwards  worked  further 
without  the  original  color  of  the  wood 
making  its  appearance. 

New  Glaze  for  Barrels,  Vats,  etc. 
Mix  intimately  2  parts  of  plaster  of 
Paris  find  1  part  of  finely-pulver- 
ized asbestos,  with  sufficient  fresh 
bullocks'  blood  to  form  a  thick 
mass,  but  so  that  it  can  be  worked  with 
a  brush.  Apply  a  uniform  coat  of  this 
to  the  dry  wood,  and  after  a  few  hours 


WOOD-GILDING,  POLISHING,  STAINING,  ETC. 


397 


give  a  second  coat,  to  which  it  is  advan- 
tageous to  a<ld  a  small  quantity  of  lin- 
seed-oil varnish.  If  necessary  to  dry 
the  barrel  quickly  suspend  a  basin  with 
live  coals  in  it,  but  the  heat  should  be 
moderate,  and  it  is  preferable  to  let  the 
barrel  stand  for  a  few  days  in  a  dry, 
warm  room. 

Before  use,  heat  the  barrel  with 
steam,  and  then  allow  it  to  dry  out.  If 
properly  done  the  layer  of  glaze  will 
adhere  tightly,  never  show  cracks,  nor 
scale  off.  The  glaze  on  a  vat  used  for  9 
months  for  boiling  starch  with  sul- 

Ehuric  acid  was  well  preserved,  and  in 
ict  had  become  somewhat  harder. 

As  the  process  is  very  cheap  and 
simple,  and  the  materials  are  entirely 
harmless  and  impart  no  odor  or  taste  to 
liquids  brought  in  contact  with  them, 
it  is  especially  adapted  for  breweries, 
distilleries,  starch  manufactories,  and 
other  industries  where,  wooden  vessels 
are  exposed  to  the  action  of  acids. 

New  Method  of  Drying  Wood.  The  fol- 
lowing process  to  dry  green  wood  in  10 
to  14  days,  without  the  use  of  heat,  is 
patented  in  Germany.  The  wood  is 
freed  from  the  bark  and  then  imbedded 
in  animal  charcoal,  bone-black,  or  peat 
dust  The  moisture  in  the  wood  is 


10  to  14  days  the  wood  is  removed,  and, 
it  is  claimed,  is  free  from  cracks,  quite 
dry,  and  ready  to  be  worked. 

New  Paint  for  Wooden  Posts,  etc. 
I  Fifty  parts  of  rosin,  40  of  finely-pulver- 
ized' chalk,  500  of  fine,  sharp,  white 
sand,  4  of  linseed  oil,  1  of  native  red 
oxide,  and  1  of  sulphuric  acid. 

Heat  the  rosin,  chalk,  sand,  and  lin- 
seed oil  in  an  iron  boiler,  add  the  red 
oxide,  and  then  very  carefully  the  sul- 
phuric acid.  Mix  all  thoroughly,  and 
apply  the  hot  mixture  to  the  wood  by 
means  of  a  stiff  brush.  Should  the 
mixture  be  too  thick  dilute  with  some 
linseed  oil.  When  cold  and  dry  this 
paint  forms  a  varnish  hard  as  stone  and 
impermeable  to  all  moisture. 

New  Process  of  Preserving  Wood. 
By  this  process  wood  is  saturated  with 
paraffme,  resins,  fats,  or  heavy  tar  oils 
by  dissolving  them  in  petroleum  or 
benzine  instead,  as  was  formerly  the 
case,  by  heating  them  to  a  high  tem- 
perature. Such  solutions  penetrate  the 
wood  much  easier  than  thickly-fluid 
substances. 

It  is  best  to  force  the  solutions  into 
the  wood  under  pressure,  for  which  the 
pneumatic  methods  slightly  modified 
can  be  used,  so  that  the  solvent  can  be 


Fig.  54. 

eagerly  absorbed  by  these  substances. 
Care  must  be  had  to  cover  the  wood 
completely,  as  otherwise  the  places  ex- 
posed to  the  air  will  form  cracks.  After 


regained  after  impregnating  the  wood. 
We  give  in  Figs.  54  and  55  an  apparatus 
by  which  this  object  can  be  attained. 
A  is  the  impregnating  boiler,  BB  the 


898 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


steam-jacket,  and  Cthe  condenser.  The 
boiler  is  provided  on  top  with  the 
escape-pipe  s  for  the  vapors  to  be  con- 
densed, the  manometer  v  and  the  pipe 
i  for  the  introduction  of  the  impreg- 
nating mixture.  The  boiler  is  further 
provided  with  a  removable  cover  h.  In 
the  interior  are  the  rails  /,  upon  which 
the  carriage  w  with  the  ties,  etc.,  is  in- 
troduced. The  steam-jacket  is  provided 
with  the  pipe  a  for  the  introduction  of 
steam,  and  the  escape-pipe  b,  and  on 
the  lower  side  with  a  cock  for  drawing 
off  the  condensed  water.  The  cooling 
vat  D  receives  a  cooling  coil,  of  which 
5  is  the  receiving  and  t  the  discharging 
end.  The  water  runs  in  through  the 
pi  pe  d,  and  escapes  through  the  pipe  e. 
R  is  a  vessel  placed  under  D  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  regained  distillate. 

To  execute  the  operation  the  solution 
prepared  as  described  further  on  is 
forced  under  pressure  into  the  thor- 
oughly dried  wood  in  the  same  manner 
as  in  the  Bethell  process.  After  suffi- 
cient impregnation  the  pressure  is  shut 
off,  and  after  connecting  the  impreg- 
nating boiler  with  the  cooling  coil,  the 
volatile  solvent  is  distilled  off  by  ad- 
mitting steam  into  the  steam-jacket, 
distillation  being  continued  as  long  as 
considerable  quantities  of  solvent  pass 
over. 

The  following  mixtures  are  consid- 
ered especially  well  adapted  for  im- 
pregnation :  I.  Three  parts  of  rosin,  1 
part  of  paraffine,  and  sufficient  benzine 
to  make  a  thinly-fluid  solution.  II. 
Two  parts  of  heavy  tar  oil,  1  part  of 
paraffine,  and  benzine  sufficient  for 
solution. 

The  best  manner  of  dissolving  the 
substances  is  as  follows :  Melt  the  par- 
affine, pour  in  double  the  quantity  of 
benzine,  and  add  the  pulverized  rosin. 
The  solution  of  the  mixture  with  tar 
oil  is  effected  in  the  same  manner  by 
first  dissolving  the  tar  oil  in  benzine 
and  then  adding  the  pulverized  colo- 
phony. 

The  solution  is  best  effected  in  a  ves- 
sel provided  with  a  cover  made  tight 
by  water-closing  and  heated  by  steam. 
By  continuing  distillation  sufficiently 
long  and  having  good  cooling  appa- 
ratus, the  loss  of  benzine  will  be  very 
slight. 

It  is  believed  that  wood  impregnated 


in  this  manner  is  especially  durable  in 
moist  places  or  under  water. 

Polishing  Wax  for  Wood.  Melt 
over  a  moderate  fire  1  pound  of  yellow 
beeswax  and  ±  pound  of  rosin,  and  after 
removing  the  vessel  from  the  fire  add  i 
pound  of  oil  of  turpentine.  Allow  the 
mixture  to  cool  with  constant  stirring, 
and  apply  it  to  the  wood  with  a  woollen 
rag,  rubbing  thoroughly.  In  a  few  days 
the  wood  will  look  as  though  varnished. 

Practical  Experiments  in  Producing 
New  Colors  upon  Wood  with  known  Col- 
oring Matters.  The  coloring  matters 
used  are,  according  to  their  nature, 
either  concentrated  decoctions  or  solu- 
tions. To  produce  the  desired  color  the 
stained  wood  is  treated  with  the  re- 
spective chemical  agent.  The  colors 
obtained  are  beautiful,  fast,  and  cheap. 

Decoction  of  Logwood  Extracts  treated 
with : 

Gives : 
Concentrated       hydrochloric 

acid reddish-yellow. 

Diluted  hydrochloric  acid     .    reddish. 
Concentrated     and      dilute 

nitric  acid red. 

Concentrated  sulphuric  acid  .    black. 
Dilute  sulphuric  acid  .     .     .    red. 
Sulphide  of  hydrogen  .     .     .    yellow-hrown. 

Ferric  nitrate black. 

Potassium  chromate     .     .    .    black. 
Stannous  chloride    ....    violet. 

Tartaric  acid gray-brown. 

Sulphate  of  copper  ....    dark  gray. 

Tannin yellow-red. 

Sal-ammoniac yellow. 

Verdigris dark  brown. 

Sugar  of  lead gray-brown. 

Potash dark  rod. 

Potassium  permanganate  .     .     light  brown. 

Potassium  iodide red-yellow. 

Pyrogallic  acid yellow-brown. 

(reddish-vio- 

Cupric  chloride -<  let    to  dark 

(brown. 

Chrome-yellow dark  violet. 

Sodium violet. 

Sulphate  of  iron gray  to  black. 

Alum (darkred- 

\  brown . 

Potassium  carbonate     .  yellow-brown. 

Magnesium  sulphate     .  brown. 

Cupric  nitrate      .     .     .  violet. 

Spirit  of  sal-ammoniac  .  dark  violet. 

Ammonium  sulphydrate  violet 

Potassium  sulphocyanide  red. 

Zinc  chloride red-brown. 

Decoction  of  Fustic  Extract  treated 
with : 

Gives : 
Concentrated      hydrochloric 

acid red. 


YEASTS. 


399 


Diluted  hydrochloric  acid  . 
Concentrated  nitric  acid    . 

Diluted  nitric  acid  .  .  . 
Concentrated  sulphuric  acid 
Diluted  sulphuric  acid  .  . 
Spirit  of  sal-ammoniac  .  . 
Ammonium  sulphydrate  . 
Ferric  nitrate 


Tannin 

Potash 

Staunous  chloride  .  . 
Cupric  chloride  .  .  . 
Tartaric  acid  .... 

Alum 

Pyrogallic  acid  .  .  . 
Potassium  permanganate 


Cupric  sulphate 
Sugar  of  lead  . 


yellow-brown. 

J"  reddish- 

t  yellow, 
brown, 
dark  purple, 
brown-rod, 
dark  yellow, 
dark  yellow. 

f  dark     gray 

( green, 
yellow, 
yellow, 
yellow, 
yellow, 
yellow, 
yellow, 
yellow. 

f  brownish- 

(  yellow, 
orange, 
yellow. 


Decoction    of  Brazil-wood    Extract 
treated  with : 

Gives : 

Concentrated  nitric  acid     .     .  dark  purple. 

Diluted  nitric  acid     ....  pale  red. 

Concentrated  sulphuric  acid  .  red. 

Diluted  sulphuric  acid       .     .  purple. 
Concentrated       hydrochloric 

acid dark  red. 

Diluted  hydrochloric  acid     .  light  red. 

Spirit  of  sal-ammoniac      .     .  dark  red. 

Ammonium  sulphydrate'.     .  dark  red. 

Sulphide  of  hydrogen  .     .     .  light  red. 

Sulphate  of  iron dark  violet. 

Tannin no  change. 

Stan  nous  chloride     ....  light  red. 

Cupric  chloride dark  red. 

Sal-ammoniac reddish-yellow. 

Sugar  of  lead yellowish-red. 

Potash dark  crimson. 

Tartaric  acid reddish-yellow. 

Decoction  of  Madder  treated  with  : 


Diluted     hydrochloric,    sul- 
pl i uric,  and  nitric  acid  .     . 

Sugar  of  lead 

Sodium '    . 

Tartaric  acid 

Tannin 

Potash 

Sal-ammoniac 

Spirit  of  sal-amrnoniac      .     . 

Alum 

Stauuous  chloride    . 


Gives : 

pale  yellow, 
reddish  violet, 
red. 

pale  yellow. 
pale  yellow, 
light  red. 
pale  yellow, 
reddish  yellow, 
faint  red. 
light  red. 


Decoction  of  Avignon  Berries  treated 

with  : 

Gives : 

Dilute  hydrochloric  acid  .  .  rose  color. 
Dilute  nitric  acid  ....  no  change. 
Dilute  sulphuric  acid  .  .  .  yellow. 

Potash yellow. 

Stannous  chloride     ....     dark  yellow. 

Tartaric  acid discoloration. 

Sugar  of  lead dark  yellow. 


Ammonium  sulphydrate   .     .     faint  yellow. 
Potassium  bichromate  .     .     .     brown-yellow. 
Ferric  nitrate f  dark      olive- 

\  green. 

Potassium  iodide yellow. 

Cupric  sulphate f  greenish- 

(  yellow. 

Decoction  of  Turmeric  treated  with  : 

Gives : 

Hydrochloric,  nitric,  or  sul- 
phuric acid yellow. 

Sulphate  of  iron f  greeuish- 

( yellow. 

Ferric  nitrate /  yellow  to 

( dark  yellow. 

Sugar  of  lead yellow. 

Alum yellow. 

Potash red  yellow. 

Stannous  chloride     ....    yellow. 
Sodium yellow. 

Preparation  of  Fire-proof  Wood.  To 
render  wood  incombustible  the  follow- 
ing mixture  is  recommended :  Soak 
27.5  parts  by  weight  of  sulphate  of  zinc, 
11  of  potash,  22  of  alum,  and  11  of 
manganic  oxide  in  lukewarm  water  in 
an  iron  boiler  and  gradually  add  11 
parts  by  weight  of  60  per  cent,  sul- 
phuric acid.  The  wood  to  be  prepared 
is  placed  upon  an  iron  grating  in  an 
apparatus  of  suitable  size,  care  being 
had  to  place  the  separate  pieces  at 
least  i  inch  apart.  The  liquid  is  then 
poured  in  the  apparatus  ;\r\d  the  wood 
allowed  to  remain  completely  covered 
for  3  hours,  and  is  then  dried  in  the 
air. 


YEASTS.  MANUFACTURE  OF  PRESSED 
YEAST,  BAKERS'  AND  BREWERS' 
YEAST,  ETC. 

Schubert's  Method  of  Manufacturing 
Pressed  Yeast.  1.  Mashing  in.  Four 
hundred  and  ninety-five  pounds  of 
crushed  rye  and  165  pounds  of  kiln- 
dried  malt  are  doughed  in  the  prepara- 
tory mash-vat  with  90£  gallons  of 
water  of  133i°  to  140°  F.  Continue 
mashing  until  no  more  lumps  can  be 
detected  in  the  dough,  and  then  add  1 
pound  of  pressed  yeast  dissolved  in 
water.  Allow  the  mash  to  stand  for  20 
to  30  minutes,  but  stirring  it  several 
times.  Then  add  72\  gallons  of  water 
of  200°  F.,  and  mix  it  as  intimately 
and  quickly  as  possible  with  the  mash, 
which  thereby  acquires  a  temperature 


400 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


of  about  144i°  F.,  which  is  the  best  for 
saccharization. 

2.  Sacchari&ation  and  Cooling.  After 
finishing  mashing  in  cover  the  mash- 
vat,  but  stir  the  mash  vigorously  every 
half  an  hour.    Saccharization  is  com- 
plete in  3  hours,  and  the  mash  is  then 
slowly  cooled  in  the  cooler  to  104°  F., 
this  promoting  top  fermentation  later 
on  and  increasing  the  yield  of  yeast. 

3.  Setting  the  Mash.    When  the  mash 
is  cooled  to  the  proper  temperature,  104° 
F.,  it  is  drawn  off  into  the  fermenting 
vat,  and  set  in  the  following  manner : 
Add  gradually  48i  gallons  of  clarified 
wash  and  95  gallons  of  cold  water  to 
reduce  the  temperature  of  the  mash  to 
84°  F.    Then  add  to  every  100  pounds 
of  crushed  grain  8J  ounces  of  sulphuric 
acH,   previously  diluted   with   water, 
and  6£  pounds  of  pure  pressed  yeast 
previously  set  with  some  mash.     The 
fermenting  tun  should  be  large  enough 
to  allow  of  the  mash  rising  without  run- 
ning over.     The  clarified  wash  is  ob- 
tained by  mixing  wash  freshly  drawn 
off  with  a  few  bucketsful  of  cold  water  to 
promote  cooling  and  clarification.    The 
barrel  in  which  this  is  done  must  be 
provided  with  stop-cocks  arranged  at 
suitable   distances  above  each    other. 
The  wash   when    clear    is    gradually 
drawn  off  by  opening  the  cocks  in  suc- 
cession from  above  to  below. 

4.  Scooping  off  the  Yeast  and  Free- 
ing it  from  Husks.     Top  fermentation 
begins  as  soon  as  the  mash  is  set,  and 
in  course  of  8  to  12  hours  the  yeast  is 
sutficiently  matured  to  be  ladled  off. 
The  yeast  is  strained  through  a  bag 
filter,   being   thereby  separated    from 
the  husks  which  remain  in  the   bag. 
The  latter  is  then  thoroughly  squeezed 
out,  and  the  husks  poured  back  into 
the  fermenting  vat. 

Washing  the  Yeast.  The  yeast  is 
brought  into  the  washing-back.  This 
should  be  higher  than  wide,  and  pro- 
vided with  10  to  12  small  discharge 
cocks  one  above  the  other.  The  yeast 
is  stirred  with  cold  water  and  then  left 
to  settle,  after  which  the  water  is  drawn 
olFthrough  the  cocks,  fresh  water  poured 
in,  and  this  continued  until  the  water 
running  off  does  not  redden  blue  litmus 
paper.  Two  and  a  quarter  to  4i  pounds 
of  potato  starch  are  frequently  added 
to  the  wash-water. 


Pressing  the  Yeast.  The  yeast,  after 
washing,  is  mixed  with  as  much  potato 
starch  as  desired,  and  to  free  it  from 
water  is  placed  in  a  double  bag  and 
pressed  with  a  gradually  increasing 
pressure.  It  is  best  to  use  screw 
presses. 

Moulding  the  Pressed  Yeast.  When 
freed  from  water  the  yeast  is  thoroughly 
kneaded  and  formed  into  pieces  weigh- 
ing 1  pound  each.  When  dry  they  are 
packed  in  paper,  then  wrapped  in 
linen,  and  preserved  in  a  cool,  airy 
place. 

Vienna  Pressed  Yeast.  The  yeast 
manufactured  in  Vienna  and  Moravia 
possesses  excellent  qualities.  It  does 
not  impart  a  bitter  taste  or  odor  to 
bread  or  cakes,  as  is  frequently  the 
case  with  other  pressed  yeast,  the  bitter 
taste  being  no  doubt  caused  by  hops 
mixed  with  the  yeast.  Vienna  yeast 
is  manufactured  from  a  mixture  of 
malt,  rye,  and  corn.  The  grains  are 
crushed  and  mashed  in  the  usual  man- 
ner, and  the  mash  set  with  a  ferment 
and  subjected  to  alcoholic  fermenta- 
tion for  72  hours.  A  light  froth  ap- 
pears first  on  the  surface  and  then 
yeast,  which  is  taken  off'  3  or  4  times. 
One  hundred  parts  of  grain  yield  10 
parts  of  yeast. 

Zettler's  Process  of  Manufacturing 
Vienna  Pressed  Yeast.  A  mixture  in 
the  proportion  of  2£  pounds  of  crushed 
barley  malt  to  22  pounds  of  rye  flour 
is  mashed  in  with  6  times  its  quantity 
by  weight  of  water  at  140°  to  144i°  F. 
When  all  is  thoroughly  mixed  by  con- 
tinued stirring  the  mash  is  allowed  to 
rest  for  2  or  3  hours,  during  which 
time  saccharization  is  completed.  To 
promote  the  fermentation  of  the  mash 
some  yeast  is  added,  but  this  must  not 
be  done  before  the  temperature  of  the 
mash  has  fallen  to  72i°  or  8H°  F. 
Alkaline  carbonates  and  sulphuric  acid 
are  sometimes  used  in  place  of  yeast. 
To  every  100  pounds  of  flour  are  gen- 
erally taken  J  ounce  each  of  potash  and 
sulphuric  acid,  or  8|  ounces  of  crystal- 
lized sodium  carbonate  and  3-J  ounces 
of  sulphuric  acid. 

As  soon  as  the  froth  makes  its  ap- 
pearance on  the  surface  it  must  be  re- 
moved with  ladles.  This  moment  must 
not  be  overlooked,  as  the  froth  falls 
back  later  on  and  the  yeast  is  then  lost. 


YEASTS. 


401 


This  froth  is  the  yeast.  It  is  freed  from 
husks  by  passing  it  through  a  hair 
sieve  into  a  settling  vessel  into  which 
cold  water  is  poured,  and  the  whole 
allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  8  to  12 
hours,  during  which  the  yeast  settles 
on  the  bottom.  The  yeast  is  washed 
once  more,  then  tied  in  linen  hags,  and 
pressed  with  gradually  increasing  press- 
ure. After  pressing  it  is  formed  into 
suitable  cakes  and  stored  in  a  cool  place. 
It  will  keep  3  to  4  weeks. 

The  following  directions  for  prepar- 
ing Pressed  Yeast  are  by  Prof.  Otto. 
Mash  in  a  vat  of  450  gallons  capacity 
6oO  pounds  of  crushed  malt  consisting 
of  2  parts  of  rye  and  1  of  barley.  The 
mash,  after  being  thoroughly  worked, 
should  have  a  temperature  of  140°  to 
144i°  F.  Cover  the  vat  and  let  the 
mash  rest  for  li  hours,  and  then  cool 
it  to  100°  F.  by  stirring.  AVhen  the 
proper  temperature  has  been  obtained 
pour  114  gallons  of  the  mash  into  an 
yeast-vat  of  35.3  to  37  gallons  capacity  ; 
then  add  7J  pounds  of  good  pressed 
yeast  dissolved  in  1J  gallons  of  luke- 
w;.rm  water,  4  pint  of  beer  yeast,  and, 
after  stirring,  1J  pounds  of  sulphuric 
acid  diluted  with  1  to  1J  gallons  of 
water.  If  the  temperature  of  the  mixt- 
ure should  be  below  88°  F.  add  suffi- 
cient hot  water  to  bring  it  up  to  that 
temperature,  or  cool  it  by  stirring  if 
above  that  degree.  Then  cover  the 
vessel  and  fermentation  will  begin  in 
about  i  hour. 

The  remainder  of  the  mash  is  in  the 
meanwhile  cooled  off  to  814°  F.  by 
adding  water,  and  is  then  brought  into 
the  fermenting  vat.  Then,  when  the 
yeast  in  the  yeast- vat  begins  to  ferment, 
add  it  to  the  mash  in  the  fermenting 
vat,  agitate  thoroughly,  and  add  1J 
pounds  more  of  sulphuric  acid  diluted 
with  1?  gallons  of  water.  Stir  the 
mash  until  it  shows  a  temperature  of 
734°  to  77°  F.  Cover  the  fermenting 
vat  in  winter.  Skimming  off  the  yeast 
may  be  commenced  after  10  to  12  hours 
and  be  continued  6  to  8  hours.  Pour 
the  skimmings  into  bags  of  medium- 
fine  bolting-cloth,  press  the  milky  yeast 
through,  and  pour  the  remainder  back 
into  the  fermenting  vat.  The  filtered 
yeast  is  transferred  to  a  vat  of  about  300 
gallons  capacity  filled  half  with  water; 
stir  the  mixture  thoroughly  and  then 
26 


let  it  rest  6  to  8  hours.  Then  draw  off 
the  supernatant  fluid  into  the  ferment- 
ing vat,  pour  fresh  cold  water  over  the 
yeast,  add  4^  ounces  of  sulphuric  acid, 
and  thoroughly  agitate  the  mixture. 
Let  it  settle  10  to  12  hours  and  then 
draw  off  the  supernatant  fluid,  which 
may  be  used  in  cooling  off  the  next 
mash.  The  yeast  is  mixed  with  284  to 
33  pounds  of  potato  starch,  then  brought 
into  double  bags  and  carefully  pressed. 
Scrupulous  cleanliness  must  be  ob- 
served throughout  the  whole  opera- 
tion. The  mash  and  fermenting  vats 
must  be  frequently  whitewashed,  as  also 
the  washing  vat.  The  press  bags  must 
be  washed  in  hot  water  and  then  thor- 
oughly dried. 

Pressed  Yeast  from  Potatoes.  The 
potatoes  are  boiled  to  a  thin  paste  in 
water  mixed  with  sulphuric  acid.  For 
220  pounds  of  potatoes,  with  an  average 
of  17.5  to  18  per  cent,  of  starch,  8  gal- 
lons of  water  and  2  ounces  of  sulphuric 
acid  are  required.  The  potato-paste  is 
then  brought  into  the  preparatory 
mash-vat,  mixed  with  40  to  50  pounds 
of  a  mixture  of  malt  and  rye  to  every 
220  pounds  of  potatoes,  and  converted 
into  pressed  yeast-mash  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  1364°  to  140°  F.  The  washing 
and  elutriating  of  the  yeast  is  done  in 
the  usual  manner,  but  only  for  30  to  40 
minutes,  instead  of  6  to  8  hours. 

American  Dry  Yeast.  Mix  34  ounces 
of  hops  with  15  quarts  of  hot  water  and 
3J  pounds  of  rye  flour.  When  the 
mixture  is  cooled*  off  to  lukewarm,  add 
4  pint  of  beer-yeast,  and  allow  the  mass 
to  ferment.  The  next  day  add  7| 
pounds  of  corn  or  barley  rneal,  knead 
the  mass  into  a  stiff  dough,  and  form 
this  into  a  cake  about  4  inch  thick. 
Divide  this  with  a  glass  knife  into  small 
pieces  and  dry  them  completely  in  a 
warm  room,  or  in  the  sun,  turning  them 
frequently.  This  yeast  can  be  kept  in 
well-closed  pots  for  an  indefinite  time. 
For  use,  break  off  the  required  quan- 
tity, soak  it  in  warm  water,  let  it  stand 
for  12  hours  in  a  warm  place,  and  then 
use  it  like  ordinary  yeast. 

Artificial  Yeast.  Mix  2  parts  by 
weight  of  the  fine  flour  of  pale  barley 
malt  with  1  part  of  wheat  flour.  Stir 
55  pounds  of  this  mixture  gradually 
into  33  gallons  of  water  with  a  wooden 
spatula  until  it  forms  a  smooth  paste. 


402 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Place  this  in  a  copper  boiler  over  a 
slow  fire,  stir  it  well  until  the  tempera- 
ture rises  to  149°  to  158°  F.,  when  a 
partial  formation  of  sugar  will  take 
place,  but  this  sweetening  must  not  pro- 
gress too  far.  Then  turn  out  the  thin 
paste  into  a  flat  cooler  and  stir  it  from 
time  to  time.  As  soon  as  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  paste  has  fallen  to  59°  F. 
transfer  it  to  a  tub  or  vat,  and  add  to 
every  15  gallons  of  the  paste  1  quart  of 
beer-yeast,  which  will  throw  the  mass 
into  brisk  fermentation  in  the  course  of 
12  hours.  This  preparation  is  a  good 
yeast  for  bakers'  and  brewers'  use,  and 
will  continue  fresh  and  active  for  3 
days.  It  should  be  occasionally  stirred. 
Cramer's  Process  of  Preparing 
Pressed  Yeast  from  Beer-yeast.  1. 
Press  the  raw  beer-yeast  in  a  bag  of 
fine  silk  bolting-cloth  under  water, 
whereby  even  the  finest  constituents, 
mechanically  mixed  with  the  yeast, 
will  remain  in  the  bag.  2.  As  soon  as 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  yeast  is  purified 
in  this  manner  transfer  it  to  the  wash- 
ing vat  and  add  three  times  its  quan- 
tity of  water.  Then  dissolve  i  to  £ 
ounce  of  carbonate  of  ammonium  in 
water  to  every  quart  of  beer-yeast,  and 
mix  the  solution  with  the  yeast  in  the 
washing  vat.  The  yeast  soon  separates 
as  a  white  sediment  on  the  bottom  of 
the  vat,  while  the  hop-resin  giving  the 
bitter  taste  to  the  yeast  remains  dis- 
solved in  the  water,  which  is  then 
poured  off.  The  white  yeast  remaining 
behind  is  now  free  from  all  bitter  sub- 
stances, but  is  not  vigorous  enough  for 
the  promotion  of  fermentation,  and  must 
therefore  be  subjected  to  a  regenerating 
process.  3.  Regeneration  of  the  Yeast. 
Mash  in  crushed  air-dry  barley  malt 
with  cold  water,  heat  the  mash  to  149° 
to  158°  F.,  add  1  ounce  of  tartaric  acid 
to  every  15  gallons  of  the  mash,  and  let 
it  stand  in  a  room  the  temperature  of 
which  should  not  be  below  72i°  F.  for 
24  hours,  during  which  time  the  forma- 
tion of  sugar  and  acid  takes  place. 
Then  free  the  mash  from  the  grains  by 
passing  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and 
add  a  half  gallon  of  it  to  every  quart 
of  yeast  to  be  regenerated.  The  tem- 
perature of  the  mixture  should  be  77° 
F.  The  mass  will  soon  be  thrown  into 
vigorous  fermentation,  the  revivified 
yeast  rising  partly  to  the  surface,  from 


which  it  is  removed,  and  settling  partly 
on  the  bottom.  Fermentation  ceases  in 
about  36  to  48  hours ;  the  fluid  is  then 
drawn  off  from  the  vat  and  the  bottom, 
yeast  is  mixed  with  the  top  yeast  and 
both  placed  under  water,  and  then 
pressed  through  double  linen  bags. 
The  pressed  yeast  thus  obtained  is 
white,  has  no  bitter  taste,  is  very  vig- 
orous and  durable. 

Improvements  in  Treating  Yeast. 
Brewers  frequently  suffer  serious  losses 
by  the  spoiling  of  the  yeast  in  warm 
weather.  The  cause  of  the  spoiling 
of  the  yeast  must  be  sought,  1,  in  its 
porosity,  as  it  is  generally  in  a  half 
liquid  state,  containing  innumerable 
bubbles  of  carbonic  acid  which  escape 
constantly,  giving  the  oxygen  of  the  air 
free  access  to  all  parts  of  the  yeast,  and, 
2,  in  the  rapid  development  of  acid  in 
the  yeast,  turning  it  sour  and  rendering 
it  unfit  for  brewers'  use. 

These  evils  may  be  overcome  by  the 
following  treatment :  Add  three  times 
the  volume  of  the  yeast  of  water  of  as 
low  a  temperature  as  possible  to  the 
vessels  containing  the  yeast.  Mix  the 
yeast  and  water  by  stirring  thoroughly, 
and  then  allow  the  yeast  to  settle  for 
24  hours.  Then  pour  off  the  water,  add 
half  the  quantity  of  fresh  water,  stir 
again,  and  add  gradually  milk  of  lime, 
a  solution  of  soda  or  other  alkali, 
until  the  fluid  reacts  only  slightly  acid. 
Then  add  to  every  100  pounds  of  yeast 
about  H  ounces  of  salicylic  acid.  Allow 
the  yeast  to  settle,  and  do  not  remove 
the  supernatant  fluid  until  the  yeast  is 
to  be  used.  After  drawing  off  the  fluid 
add  to  every  100  pounds  of  yeast  10 
pounds  of  a  mixture  of  equal  quantities 
of  malt  flour  or  wheat  flour  and  sugar, 
and  mix  it  thoroughly  with  the  yeast. 
The  yeast  quickly  absorbs  this  com- 
pound containing  sugar  and  starch, 
which  is  at  once  recognized  by  an 
abundant  development  of  carbonic  acid. 
To  render  the  yeast  very  active  8  ounces 
of  a  soluble  phosphate  may  be  added  to 
every  200  pounds  of  yeast. 

Pressed  Yeast  from  Beer-yeast.  The 
following  process  gives,  according  to 
Pfauth,  a  pure  and  white  yeast.  Strain 
the  yeast  through  a  very  fine  filter  in 
order  to  remove  all  larger  resinous 
particles,  and  then  stir  it  up  with  three 
times  its  quantity  of  cold  water  in  a  vat 


ADDENDA. 


403 


of  suitable  size  and  provided  with  cocks 
arranged  at  suitable  distances  one  above 
the  other.  Allow  the  mixture  to  stand 
for  10  minutes  for  the  yeast  to  settle, 
draw  off  the  supernatant  fluid,  and  re- 
peat the  washing  twice.  To  the  first 
wash-water  add  l|  ounces  of  bicarbonate 
of  sodium  to  every  15  gallons  of  yeast, 
to  the  second  £  ounce  of  tartaric  acid 
to  the  same  quantity  of  yea^t,  and  to 


the  third  water  1  ounce  of  carbonate  of 
ammonium.  After  the  last  water  has 
been  drawn  off  the  yeast  is  pressed  into 
cakes.  Some  kinds  of  yeast  settle 
with  difficulty.  In  such  cases,  ice- 
cold  water  in  larger  quantities  may  be 
employed,  or  in  lieu  of  this  a  little 
alum  may  be  added  to  the  first  water, 
which  must,  however,  be  completely 
removed  by  washing. 


ADDENDA. 


ALLOYS. 

Alloy  of  Copper,  Platinum,  and 
Palladium.  An  excellent  alloy  of 
these  three  metals  is  made  by  melting 
for  3  hours  8  parts  by  weight  of  copper 
and  1  part  of  platinum  with  a  pinch 
of  borax.  Then  add  1  part  of  palla- 
dium and  retain  the  crucible  over  a 
bright  flame  until  the  metals  melt  and 
amalgamate. 

Alloys  Resembling  Silver.  In  the 
following  we  give  the  composition  of 
a  few  new  alloys  having  the  appear- 
ance of  silver: 

Minargent:  Copper  100,  nickel  70, 
tungstate  of  iron  5,  aluminium  1. 

Warne  Metal:  Tin  10,  nickel  7, 
bismuth  7,  cobalt  3. 

Trabak  Metal:  Tin  87.5,  nickel  5.5, 
antimony  5,  bismuth  2. 

Manganese  Alloys.  A  good  effect, 
as  is  well  known,  is  produced  by  the 
use  of  manganese  as  an  addition  to 
bronze,  brass,  German  silver,  red  cop- 
per, etc.  All  red  copper  and  bronzes 
fouud  in  commerce  contain  more  or 
less  oxide,  which  injures  their  tenacity 
and  malleability.  The  removal  of  the 
oxide  is  effected  by  substances  having 
a  greater  affinity  for  oxygen  than  cop- 
per; for  instance,  by  the  addition  of 
phosphorus  in  the  form  of  a  tin  or 
copper  phosphide,  as  in  the  prepa- 
ration of  phosphor-bronze.  Manga- 
nese, however,  acts  more  energetically. 
An  alloy  of  copper  and  manganese — 
cupro-manganese — composed  of  70.50 
parts  of  copper,  25  parts  of  manganese, 


and  £  part  of  charcoal,  is  well  adapted 
for  the  purpose.  An  addition  of  at  the 
utmost  2i  per  cent,  is  sufficient,  and 
the  process  is  quite  simple. 

After  melting  the  bronze  masses  the 
metal  bath  is  covered  with  pulverized 
charcoal  and  the  pieces  of  cupro-mau- 
ganese,  previously  weighed  and  com- 
minuted, a  re  allowed  to  slide  slowly  into 
the  cruci  ble ;  the  melting  together  takes 
place  immediately.  The  crucible  must, 
however,  be  replaced  upon  the  fire  for 
a  few  minutes  to  restore  the  tempera- 
ture lowered  by  the  addition  of  the 
cold  pieces  of  metal.  Pouring  out  is 
done  in  the  usual  manner. 

To  scorify  the  manganic  oxide 
formed  during  the  process  add  to  the 
charcoal,  with  which  the  metal  bath  is 
covered,  about  one-half  the  quantity 
of  pure  sodium  carbonate  or  potassium 
carbonate. 

The  following  alloys  are  prepared 
according  to  this  process : 


R 

MITS. 

j 

i 

1 

& 

e 
S 

3 

si 

a 

3 

1.  . 

Ifi 

W< 

s'M 

i 

2  

16 

9" 

3'3 

2 

3.  Red  brass  . 

14 

1 

85 

or    .     . 

17 

... 

2 

81 

4.  White  brass 

42 

40 

2 

16 

or    .    . 

20 

58 

2 

... 

20 

404 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


A  composition  of  70  per  cent,  of 
copper  and  30  per  cent,  of  manganese 
is  used  as  an  addition  to  a  large  num- 
ber of  alloys,  especially  for  red  brass, 
white  brass,  and  bronze.  By  this  ad- 
dition the  alloys  acquire  greater  den- 
sity, solidity,  and  ductility.  A  copper 
and  tin  alloy  with  6  per  cent,  of  man- 
ganese possesses  the  hardness  of  steel. 

We  give  in  the  following  a  few  com- 
positions which  can  be  highly  recom- 
mended : 


PARTS. 

I 

c 

§ 

. 

ntimony. 

1 

II 

o 

H 

N 

^ 

* 

^a 

For  brasses  . 

80 

6 

0 

9 

"    rollers  . 

8 

64 

10 

16 

2 

"    malleable 

brass    .    . 

56^ 

42 

"- 

IK 

Manganese  alloys  can  be  polished, 
and  their  color  is  from  white  to  rose 
color. 

In  refining  copper,  cupro-manganese 
is  used  to  reduce  the  cuprous  oxide, 
playing  a  part  corresponding  to  that 
of  ferro-manganese  in  the  manufacture 
of  steel.  Manganese  silver  composed 
of  80  per  cent,  of  copper,  15  per  cent, 
of  manganese,  and  5  per  cent,  of  zinc  is 
white,  takes  a  good  polish,  and  is 
easily  worked. 

New  Alloy  for  Silvering.  This  new 
alloy  consists  of  80  parts  of  tin,  18  of 
lead,  and  2  of  silver;  or,  90  parts  of 
tin,  9  of  lead,  and  1  of  silver. 

Melt  the  tin,  and  when  the  bath  is 
lustrous  white  add  the  granulated 
Jead  and  stir  the  mixture  with  a  pine 
stick ;  then  add  the  silver  and  stir 
again.  Increase  the  fire  for  a  short 
time  until  the  surface  of  the  bath 
assumes  a  light  yellow  color,  then  stir 
thoroughly  and  cast  the  alloy  into 
bars.  The  operation  of  silvering  is 
executed  as  follows : 

The  article — for  instance,  a  knife 
blade — is  dipped  in  a  solution  of  hydro- 
chloric or  sulphuric  acid,  rinsed  in 
clean  water,  dried,  rubbed  dry  with  a 
piece  of  soft  leather  or  dry  sponge,  and 


then  exposed  in  a  muffle  5  minutes  to 
a  temperature  of  158°  to  176°  F.  The 
effect  of  this  treatment  is  to  render  the 
surface  of  the  iron  or  steel  porous. 
With  iron,  not  very  good  and  coarsely 
porous,  the  silvering  process  is  diffi- 
cult to  execute.  With  steel,  however, 
the  process  is  easy ;  the  article  heated 
to  about  140°  F.  is  dipped  in  the  alloy, 
melted  in  a  crucible  over  a  moderate 
fire.  The  bath,  which  must  be  com- 
pletely liquid,  is  stirred  with  a  pine  or 
poplar  stick.  The  surface  of  the  bath 
should  show  a  fine  silver  white  color. 
One  to  2  minutes  dipping  suffices  for  a 
knife  blade.  When  taken  from  the 
bath,  the  article  is  dipped  in  cold 
water,  or,  if  necessary,  hardened  and 
tempered  in  the  usual  manner.  It  is 
then  rubbed  dry,  and  polished  without 
heating. 

Articles  thus  treated  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  silver,  and  also  possess  the 
sound  of  silver,  and  resist  oxidation  in 
the  air.  To  protect  them  from  the 
action  of  acid  liquids  they  are  first 
dipped  in  an  amalgam  bath  of  69 
parts  of  mercury,  39  parts  of  tin,  and  1 
of  silver;  then,  while  hot,  in  melted 
silver,  and  electroplated  with  silver. 
This  method  of  silvering  is  claimed  to 
be  very  durable  and  not  costly. 

Aluminium  Bronze.  Several  alloys 
are  known  by  this  designation.  By 
far  the  most  useful  and  valuable  is 
that  composed  of  copper  90  per  cent,  and 
aluminium  10  percent.  It  has  a  golden- 
yellow  color,  is  very  dense,  and  ho- 
mogeneous. It  may  be  worked  hot  or 
cold,  though  it  is  difficult  to  weld. 
It  possesses  great  tensile  strength, 
often  as  high  as  100,000  pounds  to  the 
square  inch,  and  is  remarkably  ductile 
and  malleable.  Its  stiffness  is  3 
times  that  of  gun  bronze  and  44  times 
that  of  brass.  It  can  be  cast  very  well 
and  works  well  under  the  tool.  It  is 
generally  acknowledged  to  be  of  all 
the  bronzes  decidedly  the  best.  Re- 
cent improvements  in  the  metallurgi- 
cal treatment  of  aluminium  promise 
to  considerably  lessen  its  cost,  which, 
up  to  the  present  time,  has  stood  in 
the  way  of  its  extensive  use  in  the 
arts,  (w.) 

Phosphor  Bronze,  which  is  largely 
used  as  a  substitute  for  bronze  and  gun- 
metal  compositions,  for  gearing,  bear- 


ANTISEPTIC  AND  PRESERVATIVE  AGENTS. 


405 


ings,  wire  rope,  etc.,  etc.,  is  an  alloy  of 
copper  and  tin  which  has  been  fluxed  by 
the  introduction  of  a  variable  quantity 
of  phosphorus,  which  is  generally 
added  in  the  form  of  phosphide  of 
copper  or  phosphide  of  tin.  This  ad- 
dition prevents  the  formation  of  oxide 
by  which  the  strength,  ductility,  and 
homogeneity  of  the  resulting  alloy 
would  be  impaired,  and  furnishes  a 
metal  which  in  respect  to  these  quali- 
ties is  notably  superior  to  ordinary 
bronze.  Numerous  grades  of  phosphor- 
bronze  are  made  according  to  the  uses 
for  which  it  is  intended.  (W.) 

Manganese  Bronze.  This  alloy  is 
much  used  in  England.  It  is  formed 
by  fusion  of  copper,  tin,  and  manga- 
nese. Its  color  is  usually  white,  and 
when  very  rich  in  copper  tinged  rose 
color.  The  addition  of  manganese  to 
copper-tin  alloys  imparts  to  them 
greater  strength,  ductility,  and  homo- 
geneity, resembling  in  this  respect  the 
influence  of  phosphorus.  Thurston 
speaks  very  highly  of  this  alloy  as  a 
material  of  construction.  It  is  re- 
markably hard,  tough,  and  elastic,  as 
compared  with  ordinary  bronze,  and 
very  durable  when  used  for  bearings 
of  machinery.  An  average  compo- 
sition would  have  the  proportions :  Cop- 
per 88  per  cent.,  tin  10  per  cent,  man- 
ganese 2  per  cent.  (W.) 

Density  of  Alloys.  This  is  frequently 
greater  or  less  than  the  mean  density 
of  their  constituent  metals.  In  the  fol- 
lowing is  given  a  list  of  alloys  exhibit- 
ing such  abnormal  densities : 

1.  Alloys  exhibiting  greater  Density 
than  the  Mean  of  their  Constituents : 

Copper  and  zinc. 

Copper  and  tin. 

Copper  and  palladium. 

Copper  and  bismuth. 

Loud  and  antimony. 

Platinum  and  molyb- 
denum. 

Palladium    and     bis- 
muth. 


Gold  and  zinc. 
Gold  and  tin. 
Gold  and  bismuth . 
Gold  and  antimony. 
Gold  and  colialt. 
Silver  and  zinc. 
Silver  and  bismuth. 
Silver  and  tin 
Silver  and  antimony. 

2.  Alloys    exhibiting    less    Density 
than  the  Mean  of  their  Constituents  : 


Gold  and  silver. 
Gold  and  iron. 
Gold  and  copper. 
Gold  and  lead. 
Gold  and  iiidium. 
Gold  and  nickel. 
Silver  and  copper. 


Iron  and  bismuth. 
Iron  and  antimony. 
Iron  and  lead. 
Tin  and  lead. 
Tin  and  palladium. 
Nickel  and  arsenic. 
Zinc  and  antimony. 

(W.) 


Fusibility  of  Alloys.  In  nearly  all 
cases  the  fusibility  of  alloys  is  lower 
than  the  mean  fusing  point  of  their 
constituent  metals.  In  some  cases,  as 
in  that  of  the  so-called  fusible  metals, 
the  point  of  fusion  is  lower  than  t'hat 
of  either  of  their  constituents.  (W.) 

^pence's  Metal.  This  compound 
has  lately  attracted  considerable  at- 
tention. It  is  an  English  invention, 
and  is  named  after  the  inventor. 
Strictly  speaking  it  is  not  a  metal,  but 
a  compound  obtained  by  dissolving 
metallic  sulphides  in  molten  sulphur, 
which  is  found  to  be  capable  of  receiv- 
ing into  solution  nearly  all  the  sul- 
phides of  the  metals.  For  most  pur- 
poses Mr.  Spence  employs  in  the  pro- 
duction of  his  "metal"  the  sulphides  of 
iron,  lead,  and  zinc,  in  varying  propor- 
tions according  to  the  quality  of  the 
product  desired,  which  will  depend  on 
the  uses  for  which  it  is  designed.  On 
cooling  the  mixture  solidifies,  forming 
a  homogeneous,,  tenacious  mass,  having 
ordinarily  a  specific  gravity  of  3.37  to 
3.7.  It  is  said  to  be  exceedingly  useful 
in  the  laboratory  for  making  the  air- 
tight connections  between  glass  tubes 
by  means  of  caoutchouc,  and  a  water 
or  mercury  jacket,  where  rigidity  is  no 
disadvantage.  The  fusing  point  is  so 
low  that  it  may  be  run  into  the  outer 
tube  on  to  the  caoutchouc,  which  it  grips, 
on  cooling,  like  a  vise,  and  makes  it 
perfectly  tight.  It  melts  at  320°  F., 
expands  on  cooling,  is  claimed  to  be 
capable  of  resisting  well  the  disin- 
tegrating action  of  the  atmosphere,  is 
attacked  by  but  few  acids,  and  by  them 
but  slowly ;  or  by  alkalies ;  is  insoluble 
in  water,  and  may  receive  a  high 
polish  ;  it  makes  clean,  full  castings, 
taking  very  perfect  impressions ;  it  is 
cheap,  and  easily  worked.  It  has  been 
used  as  a  solder  for  gas-pipes,  and  as  a 
joint  material  in  place  of  lead.  (W.) 


ANTISEPTIC  AND  PRESERVATIVE 

AGENTS. 

Boroglyceride.  This  compound, 
which  is  patented  in  this  country  under 
the  name  of  "  Barff 's  Preserving  Com- 
pound," is  obtained  by  heating  92  parts 
of  pure  glycerine  to  302°  F.  and  gradu- 
ally adding  62  parts  of  finely-pulver- 


406  TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 

Receipts  for  Metal-workers  proved  in  Practice : 
a.  Metal  for  Brasses. 


Copper. 

Zinc. 

Tin. 

For  locomotive  axles  

86 

14 

82 

g 

10 

"    axles  of  railway  carriages  

82 

18 

84 

16 

«        «     ««       «              « 

75 

2 

"    various  kinds  of  axles   

73  7 

2  1 

14  2 

"       "      "     (medium  hard)  .... 

C9  55 

5  88 

21  77 

"     (hard)  

82 

2 

88  8 

11  2 

6.  Machinery  Metal  for  Various  Purposes. 


Copper. 

Zinc. 

Tin. 

Lead. 

For  cogwheels    

91  3 

8  7 

"    punches  

83  3 

16  7 

"    steam-  whistles      

80 

2 

17 

81 

2 

16 

"    cocks  

88 

2 

10 

"    wagon-wheel  boxes  

87  7 

2  6 

9  7 

"    stuffing-boxes  

86  2 

3  6 

10  2 

"    mechanical  instruments    . 

81  2 

5  1 

12  8 

«    files    

64  4 

10 

17  6 

8  6 

61  5 

7  7 

30  8 

"    weights  

90 

2 

g 

"    castings  (for  gilding)     

79  1 

7  8 

13  1 

77  2 

7 

15  8 

"    piston  rings          

84 

8  3 

2  9 

4  3 

"    buttons  (white)               .          

57  9 

36  8 

5  3 

63  88 

30  55 

5  55 

"    email  cast  articles    

94  12 

5  88 

90 

10 

ized  boracic  acid  ;  water  vapor  escapes 
during  the  operation.  The  manipu- 
lation of  about  6  pounds  requires  an 
entire  day,  as  on  account  of  the  viscos- 
ity of  the  melted  mass  it  is  difficult  for 
the  water  vapor  to  escape.  The  process 
is  completed  when  no  more  loss  of 
weight  takes  place,  and  the  preparation 
dissolves  readily  in  water  of  ordinary 
temperature.  The  escaping  wateV 
amounts  to  somewhat  more  than  J  of 
the  substances  used. 

Boroglyceride,  when  cold,  is  solid, 
brittle,  and  transparent,  of  a  light  yel- 
low color  and  lustrous  fracture. 

It  is  readily  soluble  in  water,  only 
slightly  soluble  in  cold  alcohol  and  in  5 
parts  of  alcohol  at  122°  F.,  and  insol- 
uble in  ether  and  chloroform  at  or- 
dinary temperature.  A  hot  alcoholic 
solution  might  be  well  adapted  for  im- 


pregnating cotton  for  surgical  purposes 
with  boroglyceride.  It  is  an  excellent 
agent  for  preserving  milk,  fruits,  meat, 
anatomical  preparations,  etc. 

Calcium,  and  Sodium  Glyceroborates, 
Two  New  Antiseptics.  Both  are 
readily  soluble,  odorless,  and  non-poi- 
sonous. Calcium  glyceroborate  is  ob- 
tained by  heating  together  equal  parts 
by  weight  of  calcium  borate  and  glyc- 
erine with  constant  agitation,  until 
a  drop  taken  from  the  vessel  and 
placed  upon  a  glass  plate  solidifies  to  a 
clear  colorless  pearl.  The  compound 
is  then  poured  upon  a  metal  plate 
where  it  solidifies  to  a  transparent, 
glassy,  and  very  brittle  mass.  The 
pieces,  still  hot,  are  kept  in  a  well- 
stoppered  bottle.  Sodium  glycerobo- 
rate is  obtained  in  the  same  manner  by 
heating  together  100  parts  of  anhydrous 


ANTISEPTIC   AND  PRESERVATIVE   AGENTS. 


407 


borax  and  150  parts  of  glycerine.  These 
compounds  possess  analogous  proper- 
ties ;  they  melt  at  about  302°  F.  and 
are  very  hygroscopic.  They  deliquesce 
very  rapidly  when  exposed  to  the  air, 
absorbing  their  own  weight  of  water. 
They  dissolve  in  half  their  weight  of 
alcohol  or  water.  Both  are  powerful 
antiseptics  even  in  a  very  diluted  state. 
They  deserve  preference  to  carbolic 
acid"  on  account  of  being  soluble  in 
water  in  all  proportions  and  producing 
no  effect  injurious  to  health.  They 
can  be  applied  without  inconvenience 
even  to  such  a  sensitive  organ  as  the 
eye.  Meat  simply  covered  with  a  glaze 
of  glyceroborate  was  sent  to  La  Plata 
and  arrived  in  a  perfectly  fresh  con- 
dition. From  a  therapeutical  point  of 
view  the  sodium  compound  would 
seem  to  be  preferable,  though  they  are 
both  pre-eminently  adapted  for  preserv- 
ing provisions,  etc.  In  surgery  they 
may  be  used  in  place  of  phenol. 

Effective  Power  of  different  Antisep- 
tic 'Agents.  To  test  the  antiseptic 
power  of  different  agents  Miguel  has 
made  experiments  and  calculated  the 
smallest  quantity  required  to  prevent 
putrefaction  in  "neutralized  bouillon, 
as  follows ; 

Mercuric  iodide 0.025  per  cent. 

Corrosive  sublimate    .     .     .        0.070  " 

Chromic  acid 0.20  " 

Chlorine 0.25  " 

Iodine 0.25  " 

Broine 0.60 

lodofnrm 0.60  " 

Chloroform 0.80 

Sulphate  of  copper      .     .     .        0.!K)  " 

Carbolic  acid 3.0  " 

Tannin 4.80  " 

Arsenious  acid 6.0  " 

Boric  acid 7.50  " 

Chloral  hydrate      ....        9.30  " 

Salicylic  acid 10.0  " 

Sulphate  of  iron     ....  11.00  " 

Amyl  alcohol 14.00  " 

Ether 22.00  " 

Alcohol 95.00 

Common  salt 165.00  " 

Glycerine 200.00  " 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  above  that 
the  mercury  combinations  possess  the 
greatest  antiseptic  power. 

New  Iron  Fruit-drying  'Apparatus. 
The  fruit  is  placed  upon  the  movable 
hurdles  h  h  h  h,  which  are  protected 
from  catching  fire  by  layers  of  ashes 
and  the  air-ilue  L.  Cold  air  is  sucked 


into  the  air-flue  L,  which  is  provided 
with  heating  pipes,  through  the  open- 
ings r,  and  after  being  heated  passes 
through  the  opening  *  into  the  drying- 


Fig.  56. 


room  a  b,  where  it  absorbs  the  moisture 
escaping  from  the  fruit,  and  passes 
through  the  dampers  k  k  into  the 
chimney.  The  dampers  k  k  are  opened 
by  shutting  the  door  t,  and  closed  on 
opening  it. 

New  Process  of  Greening  Canned  Veg- 
etables. For  Peas.  Nine  gallons  of  peas, 
bleached  in  the  ordinary  manner,  are 
poured  into  a  vessel  containing  18  gal- 
lons of  boiling  water.  They  are  then 
washed  in  cold  water,  dried,  and  put  in 
the  cans,  which  are  filled  with  the  fol- 
lowing liquor:  Prepare  a  solution  of 
white  sugar  with  common  salt  and 
ordinary  water  and  add  20  per  cent,  of 
milk  of  lime.  After  stirring,  add  1J 
pints  of  the  following  solution  :  Ten  to 
25  ounces  of  soda-lye  of  40°  B.,  and  3£ 
to  6£  ounces  of  crystallized  sodium 
sulphide,  dissolved  in  1  pound  of  water. 
The  tin  cans  are  filled  as  full  as  pos- 
sible and  subjected  to  boiling  in  an 
ordinary  digester  for  10  to  15  minutes, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  peas. 

For  Beans  the  cans  are  filled  with 
the  following  liquor :  Clear  lime-wa- 
ter 22  gallons,  common  salt  2  to  6 
pounds,  and  1  or  2  drachms  of  sodium 
sulphide.  The  cans  are  boiled  6  to  8 
minutes  at  a  temperature  of  223°  to 
230°  F. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  substances 
used  are  entirely  harmless,  especially 
in  such  small  quantities. 

Novelties  in  preserving  Organic  Sub- 


408 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


stances,  and  Apparatus  used.  The 
glass  or  other  vessels  containing  the 
fruits,  etc.,  to  be  preserved,  are  placed 
upon  the  carriage  m,  which  is  pushed 
upon  the  track  i  into  the  air  and  steam- 
tight  box  a.  A  rail-bridge  is  connected 


Fig.  57. 

by  means  of  a  hinge  joint  with  the 
track,  so  that,  after  closing  the  box,  it 
can  be  turned  up.  The  door  is  pressed 
against  the  box  a  by  the  joint  hinge  d, 
provided  with  a  longitudinal  slit,  the 
strap  e,  and  the  pressing  screw  g.  In 


Figs.  58,  59. 

using  the  apparatus,  water  covering  the 
serpentine  pipe  k  to  a  height  regulated 
by  an  overflow  funnel  is  introduced 
through  the  pipe  o  and  its  perforated 
continuation.  The  steam,  which  is  in- 
troduced into  the  serpentine  pipe  k  by 
opening  the  valve  I,  heats  the  layer  of 
water,  and  the  steam  arising  from  it, 
the  glass  vessels.  Should  the  heat  be- 
come too  great  cold  water  is  intro- 
duced through  the  pipe  o.  A  valve  q 
opening  to  the  inside  is  placed  along- 
side the  thermometer  p.  The  steam 
escapes  through  the  valve  s. 


Preparation,  free  from  Arsenic,  for 
Preserving  Animal  Skins.  Boil  until 
reduced  one-half,  125  parts  of  colocynths 
and  25  of  aloes  in  1500  of  water,  and 
strain  while  hot.  Then  stir  500  parts 
of  brown  resin  soap  in  250  of  soft  soap 
with  some  water  to  a  paste  over  a  mod- 
erate fire,  and  mix  it  carefully  with 
the  first  decoction,  and  125  parts  of  glyc- 
erine and  40  of  rape-seed  oil  over  a 
moderate  fire.  After  thorough  mixing 
stir  into  the  whole  50  parts  of  powdered 
naphthaline  rubbed  up  with  35  parts 
of  oil  of  turpentine  and  80  of  carbolic 
acid,  kept  liquid  by  a  sufficient  addition 
of  alcohol.  The  mass  should  be  homo- 
geneous ;  if  too  thick,  thin  with  oil  of 
turpentine. 

Preservative  Packing-paper  to  protect 
Cloth,  Furs,  etc.,  from  Moths.  Paper 
manufactured  from  woollen  rags  and 
manilla  threads  or  paper  is  saturated 
with  a  mixture  of  70  parts  by  measure 
of  oil  obtained  as  residue  in  the  distilla- 
tion with  energetic  steam  of  coal  tar 
naphtha,  5  parts  of  crude  carbolic  acid 
containing  at  least  50  per  cent,  of 
phenol,  20  parts  of  thin  coal  tar  heated 
to  about  160°  F.,  and  5  parts  of  refined 
petroleum.  After  saturation  the  paper 
is  passed  through  pressing  machines 
and  over  hot  rolls  to  dry  it,  and  when 
sufficiently  cooled  is  cut  into  leaves  of 
suitable  size  and  completely  dried  in 
the  open  air. 


ARTIFICIAL  EYES,  MANUFACTURE  OF. 

A  wax  model  of  the  cornea,  fitting 
accurately  into  the  orbital  cavity  of  the 
person  who  is  to  wear  the  artificial 
eye,  is  placed  in  plaster  of  Paris  paste. 
When  hardened  the  wax  model  is  taken 
out,  the  pupil  removed  from  it,  and 
after  coating  with  caoutchouc  solution 
replaced  in  its  cavity  in  the  plaster  of 
Paris  mould.  The  concave  bottom  of 
the  mould  is  then  entirely  covered  with 
caoutchouc  and  vulcanized. 

The  eye  thus  prepared  is  placed  in 
alcohol  and  exposed  to  the  sun,  where- 
by the  color  of  the  artificial  cornea 
becomes  like  that  of  the  natural  one. 
The  pupil  consists  of  glass  or  enamel, 
the  cornea  of  2  parts  each  of  oxide  of 
zinc  and  caoutchouc,  and  1  part  of 
sulphur.  The  red  caoutchouc  used  for 


ASBESTOS  AND  ITS  USES.— BLEACHING. 


409 


imitating  the  blood  veins  of  the  cornea 
consists  of  a  mixture  of  2  parts  each  of 
caoutchouc  and  cinnabar  and  1  part 
of  sulphur. 


ASBESTOS  AND  ITS  USES. 

Asbestos  Industry  in  England.  Ital- 
ian asbestos  is  principally  used.  Im- 
mense deposits  are  also  found  in  other 
countries,  especially  in  Canada,  but 
the  fibre  of  the  Canadian  variety  is 
short  and  has  not  the  snowy  whiteness 
of  the  Italian. 

For  manufacturing  purposes  the 
asbestos  is  separated  into  two  kinds, 
the  first  to  be  used  for  making  paper 
and  the  second  for  textile  fabrics.  For 
the  manufacture  of  asbestos  paper  large 
quantities  of  water  are  required,  and 
for  this  reason  the  large  establishments 
at  Harefield,  the  most  important  place 
of  the  English  asbestos  industry,  are 
located  close  to  the  canal. 

The  separation  of  the  asbestos  is 
effected  in  the  following  manner :  The 
fibres  are  disaggregated  with  a  machine 
consisting  of  two  rollers  with  three- 
cornered  teeth.  The  rollers  have  a  re- 
volving and  backward  and  forward 
motion,  so  that  disaggregation  is  effected 
without  destroying  the  parallelism  of 
the  fibres. 

Three  machines  differing  only  in 
size  are  used  for  the  operation.  The  dis- 
aggregated asbestos  is  placed  in  vats 
provided  with  stirring  apparatus  and 
boiled  with  constant  agitation  and 
occasional  lifting  out  and  replacing. 
After  boiling  the  water  is  partially  re- 
moved by  mechanical  means,  and  the 
asbestos  dried  in  chambers  heated  by 
steam.  The  long  fibres  are  then  sepa- 
rated from  the  short  ones  by  a  special 
machine.  The  short  fibres  are  con- 
verted into  pulp  and  made  in  the 
usual  manner  into  paper  and  paste- 
board. Leaves  of  asbestos  paper  are 
generally  40  inches  square  and  s?  to  i 
inch  thick.  Asbestos  board,  which  is 
principally  used  for  fire-proof  lining 
and  for  steam-joints,  is  also  used  for 
other  purposes  as  it  does  not  cause  a 
chemical  alteration  of  metal. 

The  manufacture  of  asbestos  tissue  is 
much  more  difficult  than  that  of  paper, 
as  the  fibre  neither  crimps  nor  felts. 


The  fibre  is  first  carded  upon  ma- 
chines similar  to  carding  engines  used 
in  the  wool  industry.  Upon  the  last 
carding  engine,  technically  known  as 
"  condenser,"  the  mass  of  fibres  is 
divided  into  separate  strands.  Each 
of  these  strands  passes  between  two  hoses 
moving  in  the  same  direction,  which 
form  the  strand  into  a  single  thread, 
not  by  torsion,  as  in  the  textile  indus- 
try, but  by  rolling  it  together  somewhat 
like  putty  is  rolled  between  the  fingers. 

The  other  operations,  doubling  the 
threads  and  weaving,  are  comparatively 
simple.  In  doubling  a  number  of 
threads  are  joined  and  twisted  together 
like  a  rope.  The  thread  thus  obtained 
serves  as  the  chain  in  making  the 
fabric.  The  weaving  is  done  upon 
ordinary  looms. 

Asbestos  cloth  is  chiefly  used  for 
filtering  in  chemical  works,  for  theatre 
curtains,  aprons  and  trousers  for  stokers, 
clothing  and  gloves  for  firemen,  lining 
for  fire-proof  safes,  etc.  In  the  United 
States  there  is  quite  an  extensive  in- 
dustry in  asbestos  products,  much 
of  which  are  produced  from  native 
material.  Asbestos  fibre  twisted  into 
rope  is  largely  used  for  steam-pack- 
ing ;  asbestos  millboard  is  used  largely 
for  gaskets,  pipe  and  boiler  covering, 
fire-proof  linings,  etc.;  asbestos  pulp  for 
the  last-named  purposes  and  ground 
asbestos  for  paint  body.  (W.) 


BLEACHING. 

Bleaching  of  Fabrics  and  Yarns 
without  Chlorine.  The  article  to  be 
bleached  is  soaked  in  an  iron  or  wooden 
vat,  or,  if  great  purity  is  demanded, 
boiled  with  an  addition  of  3J  pounds  of 
caustic  soda  to  100  pounds  of  material 
for  12  hours.  After  this  operation  the 
material  is  placed  in  a  warm  concen- 
trated bath  of  permanganate  of  potas- 
sium for  15  to  30  minutes,  and  after 
cooling  brought  into  a  bath  of  borax 
and  sulphurous  acid  for  15  to  30  min- 
utes. The  materials  thus  prepared  are 
then  treated  with  a  preparation  formed 
by  the  action  of  gaseous  sulphurous 
acid  upon  crystallized  borax.  To  pre- 

rre  this  borax-bath  dissolve  2  pounds 
ounces    of    borax     in    22    gallons 
of    cold    water    previously    saturated 


410 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


with  gaseous  sulphurous  acid.  The 
bleaching  effect  produced  by  this  com- 
bination must  be  explained  by  the 
simultaneous  action  of  the  borax  and 
sulphurous  acid,  since,  when  used  one 
after  the  other,  the  result  is  quite  dif- 
ferent. After  washing  and  drying  the 
materials  thus  treated  are  brilliantly 
white. 

Bleaching  Yarns  and  Fabrics.  Linen 
yarns  and  fabrics  are  boiled  for  3  hours 
in  a  solution  containing  37  grains  of 
potassium  cyanide  in  If  pints  of  water, 
then  washed,  and  treated  again  in  the 
same  manner.  For  cotton  this  opera- 
tion maybe  omitted  unless  the  material 
has  been  brought  in  contact  with  fatty 
or  oily  substances,  in  which  case  the 
above  solution  is  used  in  a  more  dilute 
form  (about  half  the  strength).  The 
fabric  thus  prepared  is  placed  in  closed 
vessels  and  treated  with  a  solution  of 
8U  grains  of  chloride  of  lime  in  If 
pints  of  water.  As  soon  as  the  vessel  is 
full  the  solution  is  drawn  off  and  car- 
bonic anhydride  passed  in.  This  oper- 
ation is  repeated  until  the  fabric  as- 
sumes the  desired  degree  of  whiteness. 
It  is  then  taken  out,  washed  in  water, 
and  pressed.  In  most  cases  a  slight 
yellow  tinge  is  retained  within  the 
fabric,  owing  to  the  presence  of  traces 
of  iron  in  the  bleaching  agent.  To  re- 
move this  coloration  the  fabric  is  drawn 
through  a  bath  of  oxalic  acid  (about 
70  grains  per  gallon),  washed  with 
water,  pressed  and  toned  with  indigo  or 
aniline  violet. 

Novelties  in  Bleaching.  Before 
bleaching  wool  with  hydrogen  per- 
oxide it  must  be  washed  thoroughly 
clean.  An  immersion  of  30  to  40  min- 
utes in  a  bath  of  commercial  hydrogen 
peroxide  diluted  with  10  parts  of  water 
suffices  to  bleach  the  wool.  With  a 
dilution  of  15  parts  of  water  about  1 
hour  is  required.  A  capacious  vat 
should  be  used  to  allow  of  the  wool 
being  easily  moved,  as  this  accelerates 
the  bleaching  process. 

As  long  as  the  wool,  after  being  taken 
from  the  bleaching  bath,  is  moist  and 
exposed  to  the  air,  the  bleaching  pro- 
cess goes  on,  and  it  is  therefore  advis- 
able not  to  hasten  drying.  The  best 
results  are  obtained  by  drying  in  the 
sun ;  if  this  cannot  be  done  a  moderate 
temperature  should  be  kept  in  the 


drying-room.  In  working  with  diluted 
bleaching  water,  the  small  quantity  of 
indigo  required  for  the  production  of  a 
pure  white  can  be  directly  added  to  the 
bleaching  bath.  By  using  a  concen- 
trated bath  the  toning  must,  however, 
be  done  in  a  separate  bath.  For  very 
yellow  wool  add  a  few  drops  of  dis- 
solved methyl  violet  to  the  bath,  which 
prevent  the  white  from  acquiring  a 
greenish  tint. 


BOOKBINDING,  GILDING,  AND  ORNA- 
MENTING. 

Folding.  The  sheets  are  folded  in 
leaves,  according  to  the  form  of  the 
book,  viz. :  Two  leaves  for  folios,  four 
for  quartos,  eight  for  octavos,  twelve 
for  duodecimos,  etc.,  and  are  marked 
with  what  printers  call  signatures  to 
guide  the  folder.  The  folding-sticks 
are  made  of  wood,  bone,  or  ivory,  and 
the  folding  generally  done  by  women. 

Rolling.  After  being  folded  the 
sheets  are  made  smooth  and  compact 
either  by  being  beaten  with  a  hammer 
weighing  12  to  14  pounds,  or  passed 
through  a  rolling-press  consisting  of 
two  smooth  horizontal  rollers  placed  a 
small  distance  apart. 

Sewing.  The  sheets  forming  one 
volume  are  fixed  in  a  cutting-press  and 
saw-cuts  made  across  the  back  edge  to 
receive  the  bands  or  cords  to  which  the 
sheets  are  to  be  sewed,  and  which  aid 
in  fastening  the  covers.  After  this 
preparation  they  are  placed  in  a  sewing- 
press,  consisting  of  two  vertical  wooden 
screws  fastened  on  a  table  or  board  and 
joined  at  their  top  by  a  horizontal  bar 
from  which  cords  are  stretched  verti- 
cally to  the  table  or  board,  and  held 
tight  by  nuts  on  the  cross-bar.  The 
sheets  are  laid  singly  on  top  of  each 
other,  the  saw-grooves  fitting  to  the 
cords,  and  each  sheet  is  sewed  fast  by 
passing  the  needle  in  and  out  through 
the  sheet  and  around  the  cords. 

Rounding.  The  back  of  the  book  is 
now  glued,  and  the  ends  of  the  bands 
are  opened  and  scraped  with  a  knife 
that  they  may  be  more  conveniently 
fixed  to  the  pasteboard  covers.  By  a 
dextrous  application  of  a  hammer  and 
the  fingers  the  back,  while  still  moist 
with  glue,  is  made  round  or  convex, 


BOOKBINDING,  GILDING,  AND  ORNAMENTING. 


411 


and  the  front  edge  hollow  or  concave, 
the  book  being  fixed  in  a  press  between 
boards  called  backing-boards,  in  order 
to  make  a  groove  for  receiving  the 
covers. 

Edge-cutting  or  trimming  is  next 
done  in  a  cutting-press  with  a  very 
sharp  blade  working  vertically.  The 
concave  edge  is  temporarily  made  flat 
by  the  press  during  the  cutting,  but  it 
springs  back  to  its  proper  concavity 
afterwards. 

Binding.  The  covers  of  books  are 
mostly  made  of  what  is  technically 
called  "  binders1  board"  cut  to  the 
proper  sizes  and  shapes  from  large  j 
sheets.  Holes  are  pierced  through  the 
boards  corresponding  to  the  cords  in 
the  back  of  the  sheets,  which  are  passed 
through  and  fastened. 

Covering.  The  covering  is  done  by 
pasting  leather,  muslin,  or  other  mate- 
rial on  the  board,  and  requires  consid- 
erable skill.  The  hollow  back  of  a 
book  is  produced  by  the  interposition 
of  paper  or  cloth  between  the  edge  and 
the  leather  in  a  way  that  enables  the 
book  to  be  opened  without  crinkling 
the  back. 

Tooling  and  Lettering.  Numer- 
ous tools  are  employed  in  a  heated 
state  and  pressed  heavily  against  the 
covers.  If  no  gold  is  used  the  tool 
makes  a  dark,  glossy  impression,  which 
is  called  "blind  tooling,"  but  in  gold 
tooling  leaf-gold  is  applied  before  the 
tools  are  used.  The  cover  is  first 
washed  with  clear  gum  water.  The 
parts  to  be  gilded  are  then  coated  twice 
with  white  of  egg  beaten  into  a  froth, 
and  then  allowed  to  subside  into  a  clear 
liquid.  To  gild,  spread  a  leaf  of  gold 
on  the  gilding-cushion  with  a  knife, 
and  blow  it  flat,  then  cut  it  into  strips 
about  i  inch  wide.  Heat  the  tool  until 
it  is  just  hot  enough  to  fizz  under  the 
wet  finger ;  if  it  sputters  it  is  too  hot 
and  will  burn  the  leather;  touch  its 
edge  with  a  rag  slightly  moistened  with 
sweet  oil,  and  with  the  same  rag  rub 
over  the  part  of  the  book  to  be  gilt. 
Roll  the  tool  softly  on  the  strips  of  gold, 
which  will  adhere  to  it,  and  when 
enough  is  taken  up  roll  it  with  a 
heavier  pressure  along  the  places  to  be 
gilt,  and  the  gold  will  be  transferred  to 
the  leather,  the  excess  being  wiped 
away  with  a  soft  rag. 


Edge  Gilding.    The  top,  bottom,  and 
front  edges  are  scraped  smooth  with  a 
!  piece  of  steel,  and  are  then  coated  with 
'  a  composition  of  red  chalk  and  water ; 
this   is  wetted  with  white  of  egg  and 
water;   the  leaf-gold    is    laid   on,  and 
soon  afterwards  is  brilliantly  polished 
!  by  rubbing  with  a  burnisher  of  agate  or 
blood-stone. 

For  Plain  Edges.  Screw  the  book 
tight  into  the  press  between  boards  and 
rub  the  edges  vigorously  with  an  agate 
or  a  dog's  tooth. 

Marbling  is  done  by  sprinkling  the 
colors  on  the  edges  of  the  leaves  \vith  a 
brush  made  of  hogs'  bristles,  the  brush 
being  held  in  the  one  hand  and  the 
bristles  moved  with  the  other. 

Another  plan  is  to  tightly  stretch 
either  plain  or  figured  mull  in  a 
wooden  frame  and  place  the  edge  of  the 
book  upon  it,  to  quickly  draw  the 
brush  over  the  mull  or  sprinkle  the 
color  in  the  above  manner,  whereby 
the  places  protected  by  the  threads  of 
the  mull  remain  white. 

Reichardfs  Rosin  Compound  for 
Gilding  Paper,  Leather,  etc.  Pulverize 
and  mix  4  to  5  parts  of  copal  and  1  of 
mastic,  and  apply  the  powder  with  a 
fine  camel's-hair  brush  to  the  place  to 
be  gilt. 

Reber's  Process  of  Gilding  Leather. 
Prepare  parchment  glue  and  white  of 
egg  of  the  best  quality. 

Parchment  Glue.  Dissolve  1  part  by 
weight  of  hogskin  parchment  shavings 
(but  not  those  of  sheepskin  parchment), 
and  boil  the  solution  to  half  its  vol- 
ume. 

White  of  Egg.  In  place  of  diluting 
the  white  of  egg  with  water,  as  most 
bookbinders  do,  add  3  drops  of  spirit  of 
sal-ammoniac  to  each  white  of  egg  be- 
fore beating  it  to  a  froth. 

The  manner  of  gilding  the  different 
kinds  of  leather  is  as  follows : 

Marbled  and  Dark  Leather  of   one 
Color.    Rub  the  place  to  be  gilded  with 
good  nut  oil,  and  burnish  it  with   a 
|  dog's  tooth,  and  then  coat  it  with  very 
thinly-fluid  flour  paste ;   wash  off  the 
:  whole  with  urine  and  let  it  dry.     Then 
j  coat  the  parts  to  be  gilded  with  parch- 
ment glue,  and,  after  drying,  twice  with 
white  of  egg.     When  dried  so  far  as  not 
!  to  be  injured  on  being  touched  with  the 
I  hand,  press  the  places  with  the  warm 


412 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


tool,  and  finally,  before  applying  the 
gold,  coat  them  with  nut  oil. 

Calfskin.  The  best  way  to  avoid 
stains  is  to  dampen  the  leather  with  a 
wet  sponge.  When  dry  coat  it  with 
parchment  glue,  and  then  twice  or 
three  times  with  white  of  egg,  and, 
when  this  is  dry,  gild  as  given  above. 

DM  Gilding  on  Calfskin.  After 
washing  and  drying  the  cover,  coat  the 
places  to  be  gilded  once  with  gum- 
water,  once  with  milk,  once  with  parch- 
ment glue,  and  twice  or  three  times 
with  white  of  egg.  Allow  the  ground 
to  dry  thoroughly,  and  then  lay  on 
the  gold  without  oil. 

To  Gild  Velvet.  Velvet  to  be  gilded 
must  be  lined  with  paper,  as  otherwise 
the  gold  will  not  adhere.  The  design 
is  then  pressed  in  with  hot  tools,  and 
gamboge  pulverized  as  fine  as  possible 
dusted  quite  thick  over  the  places. 
Roll  the  tool  softly  on  the  gold,  and 
when  enough  is  taken  up  apply  it  with 
such  a  uniform  pressure  that  when  the 
tool  is  lifted  up  no  gold  remains  on  it. 
The  tool  should  be  just  warm  enough 
to  allow  of  the  hand  being  quickly 
passed  over  it  without  burning. 

A  very  convenient  method  of  apply- 
ing the  gamboge  powder  is  to  dust  it 
through  the  silk  bottom  of  a  paste- 
board cylinder.  The  velvet  must  be 
scrupulously  clean,  since  the  smallest 
impurity  prevents  adhesion  of  the  gold. 

Gilding  on  /Silk  is  done  in  the 
same  manner  as  on  velvet,  only  still 
more  care,  with  less  pressure,  is  re- 
quired. 

Bookbinders'  Lacquer.  The  follow? ng 
well-tested  receipts  are  recommended : 
Pulverize  and  dissolve  3  ounces  of 
shellac,  1£  ounces  each  of  sandarac, 
mastic,  and  benzoin  in  li  pints  of  ab- 
solute alcohol,  then  add  l|  ounces  of 
Venetian  turpentine,  and  filter  the 
solution. 

II.  Pulverize  1  ounce  each  of  san- 
darac, mastic,  and  white  elemi,  and 
dissolve  the  powder  with  the  assistance 
of  a  moderate  heat  in  i  ounce  of  Vene- 
tian turpentine,  and  combine  this  by 
shaking  with  a  solution  of  4£  ounces 
of  bleached  shellac  in  1  ounce  of  strong 
spirit  of  wine  and  3.V  ounces  of  oil  of 
lavender.  After  standing  for  a  few 
days  the  solution  is  filtered. 

Improvement  in  the  Manufacture  of 


Book  Covers.  Book  covers  are  now 
made  in  endless  strips  by  using  a  com- 
position of  oils  solidified  by  mixture 
with  fibrous  substances  and  coloring 
matter  and  pressed  through  embossed 
rollers,  which  produces  a  resemblance 
of  morocco,  but  with  sharper  outlines 
and  capable  of  being  washed.  The 
mixture  principally  used  consists  of 
100  parts  of  oxidized  oil,*  10  of  rosin, 
10  of  Kawrie  copal  (New  Zealand 
rosin),  20  of  white  lead,  10  of  color- 
ing matter,  20  of  sawdust,  and  10  of 
paraffine  wax.  These  substances 
are  intimately  mixed  in  a  horizontal 
cylinder  heated  by  steam.  The  cylinder 
is  provided  with  a  shaft  with  inclined 
wings  by  which  the  contents  are  carried 
forward  and  pressed  out  through  an 
aperture  in  a  similar  manner  as  the 
clay  in  a  kneading  machine.  When 
the  mixture  is  ready  it  is  spread  upon 
a  basis  of  textile  fabrics,  but  principally 
consisting  of  paper  combined  with  a 
fabric.  A  suitable  agglutiiiant  consists 
of:  12  parts  of  oxidized  oil,  1  of  Kawrie 
copal  (J\'ew  Zealand  rosin),  1  of  rosin, 
24  of  ochre,  and  2£  of  turpentine.  The 
plate  produced  by  the  machine  is  after- 
wards divided  in  suitable  pieces  and 
the  covers,  if  necessary,  can  be  stiffened 
with  paper  board  pasted  to  the  back. 

BRONZING,  GILDING,  SILVERING,  ETC. 

Apparatus  for  Coating  Tools.  Metallic 
tools  and  other  articles,  particularly 
those  consisting  of  iron  and  steel  which 
are  used  in  laboratories  or  other  work- 
shops where  acid  vapors  are  of  frequent 
occurrence,  can  be  protected  from  rust 
with  a  black  shining  coat  which  resists 
acids  and  is  but  little  affected  even  by 
a  low  red  heat,  as  follows :  Have  a 
sheet-iron  box  constructed  large  enough 
to  hold  all  the  tools,  etc.,  to  be  coated, 
and  provided  with  a  false  bottom 
of  wire  netting.  Underneath  this  is 
placed  a  layer  of  crushed  blacksmiths' 
coal  about  |  inch  deep ;  then  place  the 


*  Oxidized  oil  is  prepared  by  applying  a 
drying  oil  to  a  tissue  and  exposing  it  to  the 
action  of  the  air,  and  when  dry  spreading  on 
repeated  routines  until  the  enamel  thus  formed 
is  about  %  inch  thick.  The  solid  oil  i,s  then 
ground  together  with  the  tissue  upon  which  it 
has  been  formed. 


BRONZING,  GILDING,  SILVERING,   ETC. 


413 


tools,  which  must  be  entirely  free  from 
rust,  clean  and  polished,  upon  the  wire 
net.  The  box  is  then  covered  and  set 
on  a  strong  tire,  which  causes  the  coal 
to  give  off  tarry  constituents,  and  the 
heat  is  continued  until  the  bottom  of 
the  box  is  at  a  red  heat.  When  all 
evolution  of  gas  has  ceased,  the  box  is 
allowed  to  become  cold  and  the  tools 
are  taken  out  and  will  be  found  covered 
with  a  beautiful  glossy  coat.  Tongs, 
shears,  pincers,  etc.,  so  coated,  keep  in 
good  condition  for  many  months  even 
in  places  where  the  air  is  constantly 
mixed  with  acid  vapors. 

Bronzing  Copper.  Dissolve  30  parts 
of  carbonate  or  hydrochlorate  of  am- 
monium and  10  parts  each  of  common 
salt,  cream  of  tartar,  and  acetate  of 
copper  in  100  parts  of  acetic  acid  of 
moderate  concentration,  or  in  200  parts 
of  strong  vinegar  and  add  a  little  water. 
When  an  intimate  mixture  has  been 
obtained,  smear  the  copper  object  with 
it,  and  let  it  dry  at  the  ordinary  tempera- 
ture for  24  or  48  hours.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  the  object  will  be  found  to  be 
entirely  covered  with  verdigris  present- 
ing various  tints.  Then  brush  the 
whole,  and  especially  the  reliefs,  with  a 
waxed  brush,  and  if  necessary  set  off 
the  high  reliefs  with  hematite  or 
chrome-yellow  or  other  suitable  colors. 
Light  touches  with  ammonia  give  a 
blue  color  to  the  green  portions,  and 
carbonate  of  ammonium  deepens  the 
color  of  the  parts  on  which  it  is  laid. 

Cold  Black  Stain  for  Brass.  Dissolve 
with  constant  stirring  1  ounce  of  car- 
bonate of  copper  in  9  ounces  of  spirits 
of  sal-ammoniac  and  then  add  1  pound 
2  ounces  of  water.  The  stain  is  then 
ready  for  use.  Suspend  the  articles  to 
be  stained  by  copper  or  brass  wires 
and  allow  them  to  remain  for  a  short 
time. 

Galvanizing  and  Nickelling  of  Iron 
in  Cleveland,  Ohio.  The  sheets  of  iron 
are  immersed  in  a  bath  of  hot  dilute 
sulphuric  acid  to  remove  oxide,  and 
then  washed  with  water ;  the  plates  are 
then  immersed  in  commercial  hydro- 
chloric acid,  after  which  they  are  dried 
in  a  hot  oven.  The  zinc  is  melted  in  a 
large  iron  pan  along  the  middle  of 
which  an  iron  screen  is  fixed,  so  that  it 
just  dips  into  the  bath  and  extends 
about  3  inches  above  the  rim ;  the  surface 


of  the  zinc  is  thus  divided  longitudin- 
ally into  two  compartments;  ammoni- 
um chloride  is  strewn  on  the  surface  of 
one  and  in  the  other  sand.  The  iron 
plates,  hot  from  the  oven,  are  dipped 
one  at  a  time  perpendicularly  into  the 
melting  zinc  on  the  ammonium  chloride 
side,  and  are  passed  under  the  iron 
screen  into  the  other  side,  whence  they 
are  drawn  out  by  tongs  and  pulleys. 
Drops  of  zinc  are  removed  from  the 
lower  edge  by  touching  with  an  iron 
rod.  When  they  are  completely  re- 
moved from  the  bath,  the  sand  is  wiped 
off  and  the  plate  is  finished.  The 
nickelling  is  conducted  in  wooden  tanks 
lined  with  asphalt;  the  solution  used 
consists  of  |  pound  of  nickel-ammonium 
sulphate  dissolved  in  1  gallon  of  water. 
The  object  to  be  nickelled,  after  it  has 
been  made  perfectly  clean  by  washing 
respectively  with  potash  and  dilute 
hydrochloric  or  sulphuric  acid  and 
scouring  with  pumice  stone,  is  sus- 
pended in  the  bath  by  means  of  copper 
slinging  wires  from  a  copper  or  brass 
bar  which  is  connected  with  the  nega- 
tive conductor  of  a  dynamo-electric 
machine,  while  from  another  copper 
bar  a  nickel  plate  is  suspended  in  the 
bath,  care  being  taken  that  the  nickel 
plate  does  not  touch  the  object.  After 
15  to  30  minutes  under  the  influence  of 
the  current,  the  object  becomes  suffi- 
ciently nickelled  and  is  withdrawn, 
washed  first  with  cold  and  then  with 
warm  water,  and  subsequently  well 
dried.  Care  must  be  taken  to  regulate  the 
current,  as  if  it  is  too  strong  the  de- 
posited nickel  will  be  dull,  while  if  too 
feeble  the  deposit  will  be  granular. 
The  polisher  is  a  disk  of  wood  covered 
on  the  surface  with  a  piece  of  leather, 
which  has  been  immersed  in  thin  lime- 
water,  rolled  in  emery  powder  and 
dried. 

Gilding  of  Steel.  Dissolve  pure  gold 
in  nitro-inuriatic  acid,  and  evaporate 
the  solution  to  dryness  to  expel  the 
excess  of  acid.  Dissolve  the  residue  in 
pure  water  and  add  3  times  the  quan- 
tity of  sulphuric  ether.  Then  shake 
the  mixture  in  a  well -stoppered  bottle 
until,  when  standing  quietly,  the  ether 
appears  of  a  golden-yellow  color,  and 
the  water  beneath  it  is  entirely  clear. 
Polished  articles  of  steel  plunged  into 
the  solution  are  instantly  beautifully 


414 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK/ 


gilded.  By  protecting  portions  of  the 
surface  of  the  articles  with  lacquer  or 
varnish,  beautiful  designs  can  be  pro- 
duced. If  the  gilding  should  not  turn 
out  well  at  first,  dilute  the  liquid  with 
ether.  Care  should  be  had  not  to  exe- 
cute the  work  near  a  light  or  fire. 

Gold  and  Orange  /Stain  for  Brass. 
Dip  the  articles  in  a  mixture  of  3 
drachms  of  caustic  soda,  2  ounces  of 
water,  and  5£  drachms  of  moist  carbon- 
ate of  copper.  The  shades  of  color 
appear  in  a  few  minutes,  and  the  prog- 
ress can  be  readily  judged  and  ob- 
served. After  obtaining  the  desired 
shade  of  color,  rinse  the  articles  in 
water  and  dry  in  fine  sawdust. 

Green  Bronzing.  The  repeated  ap- 
plications to  copper  or  brass  of  alternate 
washes  of  dilute  acetic  acid  and  exposure 
to  the  fumes  of  ammonia  will  give  a 
very  antique-looking  green  bronze ;  but 
a  quick  method  of  producing  a  similar 
appearance  is  often  desirable.  To  this 
end  the  articles  may  be  immersed  in  a 
solution  of  1  part  of  perchloride  of  iron 
in  2  parts  of  water.  The  shade  becomes 
darker  with  the  length  of  immersion. 
Or  the  articles  may  be  boiled  in  a  strong 
solution  of  nitrate  of  copper.  Or  they 
may  be  immersed  in  a  solution  of  2 
ounces  of  nitrate  of  iron  and  2  ounces 
of  hyposulphite  of  sodium  in  1  pint  of 
water.  Washing,  drying,  and  burnish- 
ing complete  the  process. 

Liquid  Cement  for  Coating  Articles. 
A  liquid  cement  for  giving  a  cheap  and 
durable  metal-coating  to  papier-mache, 
plaster  of  Paris,  clay,  slate,  metal,  etc., 
is  prepared  by  two  combined  processes 
which  supplement  one  another.  The 
first  consists  of  the  folio  wing  ingredients, 
which  are  mixed  in  substantially  the 
following  proportions:  No.  1:  60  parts 
of  powdered  rosin,  15  of  alcohol,  spirit 
of  wine,  or  pyroxylic  spirit,  10  of  tur- 
pentine, 10  of  petroleum  spirit,  and  5 
of  soda  water-glass.  The  liquid  thus 
prepared  is  then  spread  upon  the 
object  to  be  treated  in  the  manner  of 
applying  sizing,  and  can  be  used  for 
papier-mache,  plaster  of  Paris,  clay, 
slate,  cement,  metals,  etc.,  and  renders 
them  more  firm^^nd  water-proof. 
When  it  is  desired  to  give  a  metallic 
finish  in  imitation  of  metal  to  the 
object  treated  with  the  above  composi- 
tion, apply  to  its  surface,  before  the 


composition  has  hardened,  the  powder 
of  any  desired  metal,  such  as  silver,  cop- 
per, etc.,  by  means  of  a  fine  camel's-hair 
brush,  after  which  the  article  is  dried 
in  warm  air  or  in  the  sun.  In  order 
that  not  only  the  metal  dust  may  ad- 
here but  that  also  the  metallic  color 
may  be  retained  and  not  oxidize  on  ex- 
posure to  the  air,  the  second  composi- 
tion or  varnish  is  laid  quite  lightly  on 
the  metallized  surface  after  the  lapse 
of  a  few  days.  To  prepare  composition 
No.  2,  dissolve  1  part  of  bichromate  of 
potassium  in  5  of  water,  and  mix  then 
80  parts  of  distilled  water,  15  of  Russian 
glue,  5  of  the  above  solution,  or  5  of 
chrome-alum  and  water  (1:5).  After 
the  article  thus  treated  has  been  dried 
for  some  days  in  warm  air  or  in  the 
sun  it  will  be  found  that  this  layer  or 
metallic  surface  has  become  so' hard 
and  firm  that  it  will  not  be  injured  by 
exposure  to  the  heat  of  the  sun,  or  to 
frost  or  moisture,  being  in  fact  weather- 
proof. 

Porous  and  water-absorbing  materials 
are  rendered  impervious  by  coating 
with  the  liquid  cement  No.  1. 

New  Process  for  Producing  a  Bronze- 
colored  Surface  on  Iron,.  The  cleansed 
objects  are  exposed  to  the  vapors  of  a 
heated  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  con- 
centrated hydrochloric  and  nitric  acid 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  heated  to  a  tem- 
perature of  from  572°  to  662°  F.,  the 
heating  being  continued  until  the 
bronze  color  appears.  The  objects  are 
then  cooled,  rubbed  with  vaseline,  and 
heated,  until  the  latter  begins  to  de- 
compose, the  operation  being  repeated 
once  more.  A  bronze-colored  oxide 
coating  is  obtained  by  using  acetic  acid 
in  conjunction  with  the  above-men- 
tioned acids.  By  varying  the  propor- 
tions of  the  different  acids  it  is  possible 
to  obtain  light  and  dark  brown  shades. 
Iron  bars  coated  in  this  manner  and 
exposed  for  a  year  to  the  atmosphere 
of  a  laboratory  remained  unchanged 
and  without  the  slightest  sign  of  corro- 
sion. 

Painting  on  Zinc.  The  process  is 
made  easier  by  employing  a  mordant 
composed  of  1  part  each  of  chloride 
of  copper,  nitrate  of  copper,  and  sal- 
ammoniac  dissolved  in  64  parts  of 
water,  and  to  this  mixture  is  added  1 
part  of  commercial  hydrochloric  acid. 


BUILDING  MATERIALS. 


415 


This  is  brushed  over  the  plate  of  zinc, 
and  after  12  or  24  hours  it  dries  a  dullish 
gray  color.  Painting  upon  this  surface 
the  colors  will  adhere  in  a  perfect  man- 
ner. Another  method  is  as  follows: 
Into  some  muriatic  acid  of  full  strength 
drop  some  pieces  of  zinc  until  effer- 
vescence ceases.  Add  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  water,  and  with  a  sponge  tied  to 
a  stick  wash  over  every  part  of  the  sur- 
face to  be  painted.  This  ronghens  the 
surface  and  takes  off  that  sort  of  greasi- 
ness  which  prevents  paint  from  adher- 
ing. After  the  acid  has  remained  a 
short  time  wash  it  over  with  water  or 
dilated  vinegar,  dry  off,  and  paint. 

To  Cleanse  Brass.  Dip  the  articles 
in  a  mixture  of  1  part  of  nitric  acid  and 
i  part  of  sulphuric  acid,  then  rinse  in 
water,  and  finally  rub  with  sawdust. 
If  greasy,  dip  the  brass  first  in  a 
boiling  hot  solution  of  potash-lye. 

To  Color  Soft  Solder  Yellow.  When 
brass  is  soldered  with  soft  solder  the 
difference  in  color  is  so  marked  as  to 
direct  attention  to  the  spot  mended. 
This  can  be  obviated  by  the  following 
method :  First  prepare  a  saturated  so- 
lution of  sulphate  of  copper  in  water, 
and  apply  some  of  this  on  the  end  of  a 
stick  to  the  solder.  On  touching  with 
a  steel  or  iron  wire  it  becomes  coppered, 
and  by  repeating  the  experiment  the 
deposit  of  copper  may  be  made  thicker 
and  darker.  To  give  the  solder  a  yel- 
lower color  mix  1  part  of  a  saturated 
solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc  with  two 
of  sulphate  of  copper,  apply  this  to  the 
coppered  spot,  and  rub  with  a  zinc 
rod,  which  produces  a  precipitation  of 
brass.  The  color  can  be  still  further 
improved  by  applying  gilt  powder  and 
polishing. 


BUILDING  MATERIALS. 

Fire-resisting  Properties  of  Building 
Materials.  Of  the  natural  building 
stones  the  highest  rank  as  fire-resist- 
ing materials  must  be  accorded  to  the 
sandstones;  and  of  these  the  fine- 
grained, hard,  silicious  varieties  (that 
is,  those  having  a  silicious  cementing 
material)  are  the  best.  Such  sandstones 
are  found  to  be  capable  of  resisting  the 
radiant  or  direct  heat  of  the  most  intense 
fire,  before  which  limestone  crumbles 


and  granite  or  gneiss  crack  and  split 
into  fragments.  Of  the  artificial  mate- 
rials, brick  and  cement  and  iron  com- 
prise all  that  are  commonly  employed. 
Of  these,  the  first  two  are  first-class  fire- 
resisting  materials.  The  first  named 
is  undoubtedly  the  very  best  fire- 
proof material  for  a  wall  that  can  be 
used.  Cast-iron,  which  at  one  time  was 
largely  used  for  the  fronts  of  large 
structures,  has  proved  to  be  utterly  un- 
reliable as  a  fire-resisting  material,  and 
is  rapidly  going  out  of  use  for  this 
purpose,  as  it  should.  Even  vrrought- 
iron  girders,  used  as  floor  supports,  are 
elements  of  danger  and  weakness  in 
case  of  fire,  unless  they  are  surrounded 
with  a  cement  or  similar  filling.  (W.) 

Cork  Ktone.  A  product  possessing 
many  of  the  properties  of  natural  cork 
but  less  specific  gravity  is  prepared  as 
follows:  6.3  parts  by  weight  of  pulver- 
ized cork-wood  are  mixed  with  boiling- 
hot  paste  prepared  from  3  parts  by 
weight  of  starch  and  25  parts  of  boiling 
water.  The  plastic  mass  thus  obtained 
is  pressed  at  once  into  suitable  moulds, 
and  the  objects  produced  are  dried  at  a 
temperature  of  212°  F.  The  drying 
process  is  very  slow.  To  make  the 
articles  more  capable  of  resisting  moist- 
iire  add  small  quantities  of  linseed  oil 
or  tar  to  the  mass. 

Cork  stone  thus  prepared  being  very 
light  and  a  poor  conductor  of  heat  is 
especially  adapted  as  a  building  mate- 
rial for  the  insulation  of  roofs,  for  ice 
cellars,  and  drying-rooms. 

Enamelled  Bricks.  The  composition 
of  the  enamel  varies  between  1  part  of 
plumbic  oxide  and  1  of  sand,  and  2 
parts  of  plumbic  oxide  and  1  of  sand. 
For  green  enamel  least  plumbic  oxide  is 
used,  and  for  colorless  enamel  generally 
4  parts  of  plumbic  oxide  and  3  of  sand. 
Some  manufacturers  add  heavy  spar, 
so  that  the  enamel  will  only  fuse  at  a 
high  temperature.  For  coloring  light 
brown  to  black,  pyrolusite  is  used,  and 
for  green,  copper  scales.  The  constitu- 
tion of  the  body  of  the  brick  is  of  great 
importance  for  the  durability  of  the 
enamel.  The  harder  it  is  burnt  and  the 
more  the  clay  of  which  it  is  composed 
is  inclined  to  slagging  in  consequence 
of  a  fine  division  of  the  lime  contained 
in  it  the  more  intimate  the  union  be- 
tween the  enamel  and  the  body  of  the 


416 


TECHNO-CHEMTCAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


brick  will  be,  and  the  fewer  cracks  the 
enamel  will  show.  Solid  particles  of 
lime  near  the  surface  of  the  body  of 
the  brick  are  especially  injurious,  as 
on  coming  later  on  in  contact  with 
water  they  are  apt  to  crack  the 
enamel. 

Mass  for  Roofing,  Fire-proof  Ceil- 
ings, Floors,  etc.  Two  masses  are 
used,  an  under-layer  and  top-layer. 
For  the  under-layer  stir  to  a  paste : 
Slaked  lime,  blood,  burnt  alum,  cement, 
sand,  brickdust  or  pumice  stone,  coal- 
ashes,  sawdust,  broken  glass  or  porce- 
lain, and  water-glass. 

For  the  top-layer  mix  linseed  oil, 
asphaltum,  chalk,  litharge,  broken 
glass,  burnt  alum,  blood,  cement,  plas- 
ter of  Paris  or  chalk,  and  pumice 
stone. 

For  roofing,  insulating  layers,  fire- 
proof ceilings,  etc.,  apply  both  masses 
in  a  cold  and  liquid  state  upon  a  base. 
They  soon  harden. 

For  roofing,  plates  of  the  under-layer 
with  a  wire  net  enclosed  are  also  used. 
The  plates  are  coated  with  the  top-layer 
and  a  solution  of  water-glass,  and  fast- 
ened to  the  rafters  by  means  of  cramps 
through  the  loops  of  the  wire  net. 

Plaster  for  Ceilings.  H.  Kahl's 
patented  plaster  consists  of:  Sawdust 
35  per  cent.,  sand  35  per  cent.,  plaster 
of  Paris  10  per  cent.,  glue  10  per  cent., 
and  whiting  10  per  cent. 

Terrti-cotta  Lumber.  Mix,  according 
to  the  degree  of  porosity  desired,  1  to  3 
parts  of  resinous  wood  with  1  part  of 
elutriated  kaolin,  and  add  sufficient 
water  to  form  a  plastic  mass  of  spongy 
consistency,  which  is  exposed  in  metal 
cylinders  to  a  strong  pressure  by  steel 
stamps.  The  result  of  the  operation 
are  cylindrical  blocks  8  to  12  inches  in 
diameter  and  4  to  6  feet  long.  The 
blocks  are  dried  in  the  air,  then  in  a 
drying  oven,  and  finally  heated  in  a 
furnace  to  a  white  heat.  The  blocks, 
after  cooling,  are  very  strong,  and  can 
be  sawed,  cut,  and  planed.  Their  den- 
sity corresponds  to  about  half  of  that 
of  ordinary  bricks.  A  special  ad- 
vantage of  the  mass  is  that  it  is  fire- 
proof. It  is  patented  in  this  country, 
and  is  successfully  used  for  building 
and  other  purposes. 

Utilization  of  Sawdust.  Two  patents 
have  been  recently  issued  in  this  coun- 


try for  the  use  of  sawdust  in  place  of 
sand  for  plastering.  According  to  the 
one,  equal  parts  of  plaster  of  Paris  and 
sawdust  are  used,  while  the  other  pre- 
scribes the  following  mixture :  4i  parts 
of  slaked  lime  mixed  with  sawdust,  1 
part  of  plaster  of  Paris,  i  part  of  glue, 
and  TS  part  of  glycerine.  The  plaster 
thus  prepared  is  claimed  to  be  much 
lighter  and  to  adhere  more  firmly. 


CELLULOID  :     IMITATIONS,     SUBSTI- 
TUTES, ETC. 

Artificial  Ivory.  Mix  8  parts  of 
shellac  with  32  parts  of  ammonia  of 
0.995  specific  gravity,  and  shake  the 
solution  in  revolving  cylinders  for 
about  5  hours  at  a  temperature  of  99.5° 
F.  The  result  of  the  operation  will  be 
a  complete  solution  of  the  consistency 
of  thin  syrup.  Add  to  this  40  parts  of 
zinc  oxide,  mix  thoroughly  with  the 
hand,  and  then  grind  the  mixture  in  a 
color-mill.  The  ammonia  is  then  ex- 
pelled by  heating.  The  residue  is 
completely  dried  upon  glass  plates, 
ground  fine  in  a  mill,  and  pressed  into 
moulds  with  a  pressure  of  as  much  as  a 
ton  to  the  square  inch,  and  an  increase 
of  temperature  to  from  500°  to  540°  F. 
The  product,  when  taken  from  the 
mould,  is  of  a  pure  white  color  and 
closely  resembles  ivory. 

Celluloid  Printing  Plates.  Cellu- 
loid, though  comparatively  a  recent 
product,  is  being  continually  applied 
to  new  uses  in  the  arts.  Very  good  re- 
sults have  lately  been  obtained  with 
celluloid  stereotypes,  both  from  wood 
engravings  and  from  tvpe,  which  may 
be  used  on  the  printing-press.  The 
process  consists  in  taking  a  copy  of  the 
engraving  on  wood  or  of  the  type  with 
the  use  of  a  special  cement,  which 
hardens  rapidly  and  takes  the  finest 
lines  sharply.  After  about  20  minutes 
this  cement  is  hard  and  resistant.  The 
form  in  which  the  first  impression  is 
taken  should  be  slightly  heated  ;  arid  a 
sheet  of  celluloid  is  employed  to  obtain 
a  counter  impression  from  this,  which 
is  then  prepared  by  ordinary  methods 
for  the  printing-press.  A  celluloid 
plate  has  been  subjected  to  25,000  im- 
pression^, apparently  without  losing 
any  of  its  sharpness. 


CELLULOID— IMITATIONS,  SUBSTITUTES,  ETC. 


417 


When  used  as  a  Substitute  for  wood 
in  the  production  of  large  printing- 
type,  it  is  found  to  be  much  preferable 
to  wood.  It  has  a  fine  surface,  pos- 
sesses great  durability,  cau  be  readily 
worked,  is  light,  and  can  stand  all  the 
rough  usage  of  th/e  press.  [Celluloid  has 
lately  been  successfully  used  for  im- 
itating enamel  for  signs,  monograms, 
etc.,  to  be  attached  to  glass.  (W.)] 

Elastic  Mass  Resembling  Leather. 
The  pulverulent  residue  obtained  in 
refining  cotton-seed  oil  is  intimately 
mixed  in  varying  proportions  with  suit- 
able non-volatile  solvents,  such  as  fats, 
oils,  paraffine  wax,  resins,  etc.,  and 
with  pulverulent  substances,  such  as 
graphite,  cinnabar,  soot,  etc.,  and  sul- 
phur powder  or  carbon  di-sulphide  is 
added  to  the  mixture.  By  heating  the 
mass  at  17£°  to  302°  F.  until  the  pow- 
der unites  with  the  solvents  to  a  homo- 
geneous mass,  a  more  or  less  hard, 
plastic  substance  is  obtained. 

Flexible  Insulating  Mass.  One  part 
by  weight  of  mineral  wax  (paraffine, 
ozocerite),  20  of  wood  tar,  32  of  shellac, 
and  32  of  dry  and  finely-pulverized 
asbestos,  flax,  cotton,  wood,  or  paper, 
are  mixed  in  a  boiler  at  100°  to  200° 
F.,  and  constantly  stirred.  For  a 
harder  mass  use  less  tar.  For  an  espe- 
cially hard  mass  omit  the  mineral  wax, 
decrease  the  quantity  of  asbestos,  and 
add  about  24  parts  of  ground  slate  or 
clay,  free  from  iron. 

Insulating  Material  for  Electrical 
Conductors.  Mix  66  parts  by  weight 
of  finely-powdered  glass  or  quartz  and 
34  parts  by  weight  of  pulverized  vege- 
table or  mineral  resin,  and  add  26  parts 
by  weight  of  paraffine,  beeswax  or  sper- 
maceti, and  3  parts  by  weight  of  boiled 
or  raw  linseed  oil.  The  proportions 
differ  according  to  circumstances.  If 
the  mass  is  to  be  exposed  to  the  sun 
only  a  small  quantity  of  wax  is  to  be 
used,  while,  for  underground  lipes,  the 
quantity  of  wrx  must  be  increased. 

Mass  for  Plastic  Models.  The  fol- 
lowing preparation  possesses  many  ad- 
vantages over  most  now  in  use :  Mix 
200  parts  of  soapstone  powder  and  100 
parts  of  the  best  wheat  flour,  and  stir 
the  mixture  carefully  into  300  parts  of 
melted  white  wax,  not  too  hot.  The 
homogeneous  mass  can  be  colored  at 
pleasure. 
27 


New  Imitation  of  Ivory.  This  new 
material  possesses  all  the  hardness  and 
brilliancy  of  celluloid,  and  has  the  ad- 
vantage of  being  fire-proof.  It  is  pre- 
pared as  follows:  Dissolve  200  parts 
of  casein  in  50  of  ammonia  and  400  of 
water,  or  140  parts  of  albumen  in  400 
of  water,  and  add  to  either  solution  240 
parts  of  quicklime,  150  of  acetate  of 
aluminium,  50  of  alum,  1200  of  sul- 
phate of  calcium,  and  100  of  oil,  the  oil 
to  be  mixed  in  last.  For  dark  objects 
substitute  75  to  100  parts  "of  tannin  for 
the  acetate  of  aluminium.  The  mixt- 
ure is  well  kneaded,  and  made  into  a 
smooth  paste  and  passed  through  rollers 
to  form  plates  of  the  desired  thickness. 
These  are  either  dried  and  pressed  into 
metallic  moulds  previously  heated  or 
they  may  be  reduced  to  a  very  fine 
powder,  which  is  introduced  into  the 
mould  and  submitted  to  a  strong  press- 
ure. The  objects  are  afterwards 
dipped  into  a  bath  consisting  of  100 
parts  of  water,  6  of  white  glue,  and  10 
of  phosphoric  acid.  They  are  then 
dried,  polished,  and  varnished  with 
shellac. 

New  Substitute  for  Caoutchouc. 
Skins  of  hares,  rabbits,  and  other  small 
animals,  or  waste  of  such  skins,  are 
cleansed  in  water,  depilated  in  lime- 
water,  or  bv  some  other  suitable 
method,  and  boiled  with  5  per  cent,  of 
crude  glycerine  and  as  little  water  as 
possible,  until  entirely  dissolved.  The 
thickly-fluid,  viscous  mass  obtained  is 
either  dried  upon  nets  in  an  airy  room 
or  at  once  further  manipulated.  Three 
parts  by  weight  of  the  mass  and  an 
equal  quantity  of  crude  glycerine  are 
melted  in  a  water  or  steam -bath,  and  i 
part  by  weight  of  a  concentrated  solu- 
tion of  potassium  bichromate  is  added. 
The  liquid  mass  is  poured  into  moulds 
and  allowed  to  solidify  under  pressure. 
When  cold  the  articles  are  taken  from 
the  moulds  and  dried  in  a  dark,  airy 
room.  The  evaporation  of  the  excess 
of  water  takes  place  more  quickly  in  a 
dark  room  than  in  a  light  one,  as  in  the 
latter  the  surface  of  the  articles  be- 
comes too  quickly  insoluble  under  the 
influence  of  light,  which  impedes  the 
evaporation  of  the  water  in  the  interior. 
This  mass  bears  a  close  resemblance  to 
vulcanized  caoutchouc,  and  has  the  ad- 
vantage of  standing  heat  much  better. 


418 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


To  prepare  a  mass  resembling  hard 
rubber  add  less  glycerine  and  a  little 
moreehromate  and  dry  between  heated, 
polished  metal  plates  under  pressure. 
A  very  hard  product  is  obtained  by 
immersing  the  articles  in  a  bath  of 
chrome-alum  solution.  This  substitute 
for  hard  rubber  can  be  sawed,  ground, 
and  polished.  To  make  it  resist  acids 
add  to  the  mass  30  per  cent,  of  gum-lac 
dissolved  in  alcohol.  By  the  addition 
of  suitable  coloring  matters,  imitations 
of  coral,  malachite,  etc.,  are  obtained. 
If  the  mass  is  to  be  used  for  articles 
which,  with  great  elasticity,  have  to 
resist  strong  pressure,  such  as  railroad 
buffers,  wheel  tires,  etc.,  only  1  part  of 
crude  glycerine  is  used  and  £  part 
of  comminuted  cork  mixed  with  the 
mass. 

For  the  preparation  of  a  mass  for 
water-proofing  fabrics,  etc.,  add  %  part  by 
weight  of  ox-gall  to  the  mass  and  com- 
pound with  sufficient  soft  water  to  give 
it  the  consistency  of  thickly-fluid  oil ; 
about  \  part  of  the  potassium  bichro- 
mate is  used.  The  thickly-fluid  mass 
thus  obtained  is  brought  into  a  double- 
walled  cylinder,  heated  by  steam  and 
provided  with  a  roller  under  which 
the  fabric  to  be  impregnated  is  con- 
ducted. 

Substitute  for  Gutta-percha.  The 
following  mass,  which  is  patented  in 
Germany,  is  claimed  to  be  a  good 
substitute  for  gutta-percha  for  many 
purposes.  The  process  of  manufacture 
is  as  follows :  A  mixture  of  50  parts  by 
weight  of  powdered  gum  copal,  7  to  15 
of  sulphur,  and  15  to  30  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine, is  heated  to  from  228°  to  300° 
F.  and  thoroughly  stirred.  After  being 
allowed  to  cool  to  100°  F.,  an  emulsion 
prepared  from  3  parts  by  weight  of 
casein  and  weak  ammonia  with  an 
addition  of  some  alcohol  and  wood 
spirit  is  added,  and  the  whole  heated 
once  more  to  300°  F.  until  it  has  ac- 

?uired  the  consistency  of  thin  syrup, 
t  is  then  boiled  for  a  few  hours  with 
an  ammoniacal  solution  of  15  to  25  per 
cent,  of  tannin.  The  product  is  cooled, 
washed  in  cold  water,  rolled  out,  and 
finally  dried. 

Superior  Modelling  Wax.  Melt  care- 
fully over  a  moderate  coal  fire  2  pounds 
of  yellow  beeswax,  add  4£  ounces  of 
Venetian  turpentine,  2  ounces  of  lard, 


and  If  pounds  of  elutriated  bole,  and 
mix  thoroughly.  Then  gradually  pour 
the  mixture  into  a  vessel  with  water 
and  thoroughly  knead  several  times 
with  the  hands.  The  wax  should  be 
melted  at  such  a  low  temperature  that 
no  bubbles  appear  upon  the  melted 
surface. 

Vegetable  Leather.  This  new  prod- 
uct, which,  it  is  claimed,  possesses  all 
the  properties  of  genuine  leather,  is 
water-proof  and  a  non-conductor  of 
electricity,  is  prepared  by  mixing  6J 
pounds  of  gutta-percha,  2  pounds  of 
sulphur,  2  pounds  of  raw  cotton,  1 
pound  5  ounces  of  zinc  white,  3i  ounces 
of  colcothar,  and  8|  ounces  of  antimony 
oxide,  and  vulcanizing  the  mass  by 
means  of  steam  similar  to  caoutchouc. 
Gutta-percha  and  sulphur  are  abso- 
lutely required,  while  chemicals  of 
similar  nature  may  be  substituted  for 
the  other  constituents.  The  proportions 
of  the  separate  components  may  also  be 
varied,  according  to  the  purpose  the 
product  is  to  serve.  The  composition  is 
recommended  for  soles  and  heels. 


CEMENT  WORK. 

Weatherproof  Cement  Work.  Soak 
the  article  for  24  hours  in  a  solution  of 
1  part  of  ferrous  sulphate  in  3  of  water 
and  dry  in  the  air.  The  ferric  oxide 
produced  is  chemically  combined  in  the 
cement  and  makes  it  denser,  harder, 
heavier,  and  weather-proof,  filling  up 
most  of  the  pores,  and  giving  it  an  ochre 
color.  Ornamental  cement  work  is 
brushed  over  with  the  solution  four 
times  and  allowed  to  dry.  The  cement 
work  can  be  rendered  extremely  resist- 
ing by  warming  and  then  coating  with 
a  hot  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  paraffine 
and  paraffine  oil.  This  treatment  is  rec- 
ommended as  being  especially  service- 
able for  ornamental  cement  work  which 
is  exposed  to  the  weather.  By  treating 
twice  with  a  5  per  cent,  soap  solution, 
drying  and  polishing,  the  surface  is  made 
receptive  for  oil-painting.  Chalk  ob- 
jects and  room  walls  treated  in  this  man- 
ner will  stand  any  amount  of  washing. 
Light  ochre  color  can  be  obtained  by 
adding  alum  to  the  ferrous  sulphate; 
and  various  shades  of  green  by  paint- 
ing with  chrome-alum. 


CLEANSING,  POLISHING,  AND  RENOVATING  AGENTS.       419 


CLEANSING,  POLISHING,  AND  RENO- 
VATING AGENTS. 

Cleaning-powder  for  Show-windows. 
A  good  cleaning-powder,  which  leaves 
no  dirt  in  the  joints,  etc.,  is  prepared 
by  moistening  calcined  magnesia  with 
pure  benzine  so  that  a  mass  is  formed 
sufficiently  moist  to  let  a  drop  appear 
when  pressed.  The  mixture  should  be 
preserved  in  glass  bottles  with  ground 
stoppers,  in  order  to  retain  the  easily 
Volatile  benzine.  A  little  of  the  mixt- 
ure is  placed  on  a  wad  of  cotton  and 
applied  to  the  glass  plate.  It  may  also 
be  used  for  cleaning  mirrors. 

Cleansing-rags  for  Polishing  Metal. 
Dip  flannel  rags  into  a  solution  of  20 
parts  of  dextrine  and  30  parts  of  oxalic 
acid  in  20  parts  of  logwood  decoction, 
wring  them  gently,  and  sift  over  them 
a  mixture  of  finely-pulverized  tripoli 
and  pumice  stone.  The  moist  rags  are 
piled  upon  each  other,  placing  a  layer 
of  the  powder  between  each  two.  They 
are  then  pressed,  taken  apart,  and 
dried. 

Cleansing  Wash-leather.  Wash  the 
spiled  polishing  leather  in  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  soda  and  warm  water,  .then  rub 
a  good  deal  of  soap  into  the  leather  and 
let  it  soften  for  2  hours.  It  is  after- 
wards thoroughly  washed  until  per- 
fectly clean,  and  rinsed  in  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  warm  water,  soda,  and  yellow 
soap.  It  must  not  be  washed  in  water 
alone  or  it  will  become  so  hard  when 
dry  that  it  cannot  be  used  again.  It  is 
the  small  quantity  of  soap  remaining  in 
the  leather  which  penetrates  its  smallest 
particles  and  makes  the  leather  as  soft 
as  silk.  After  the  rinsing,  it  is  wrung 
out  in  a  coarse  towel  and  dried  quickly. 
It  is  then  pulled  in  every  direction  and 
well  brushed,  after  which  it  is  softer 
and  better  than  most  wash  leather  when 
first  bought.  If  rough  leather  is  used 
to  finish  highly  polished  surfaces,  it 
will  be  often  observed  that  the  surface 
is  scratched  or  injured.  This  is  caused 
by  particles  of  dust,  and  even  grains  of 
hard  rouge  that  were  left  in  the  leather. 
As  soon  as  they  are  removed  with  a 
clean  brush  and  rouge,  a  perfectly 
bright  and  beautiful  finish  can  be  ob- 
tained. 

Cloth-cleaning  Compound.  Take  £ 
ounce  each  of  glycerine,  alcohol,  and 


sulphuric  ether,  2  ounces  of  aqua  am- 
monia, i  ounce  of  powdered  Castile 
soap  and  add  sufficient  water  to  make 
1  quart  of  the  mixture.  Use  with 
brush  or  sponge,  and  rinse  with  pure 
water. 

Furniture  Renovater.  Mix  thor- 
oughly, olive  oil  1  pound,  refined  oil 
of  amber  1  pound,  and  tincture  of  henna 
1  ounce.  Keep  the  mixture  in  a  well- 
stoppered  glass  bottle.  For  renovating 
the  polish  of  furniture  apply  the  mixt- 
ure with  a  tuft  of  raw  cotton  and  rub 
dry  with  a  cotton  rag. 

Liquid  Polish  for  /Silver-plated  Ware. 
Dissolve  3  to  4  drachms  of  cyanide  of 
potassium  and  8  to  10  grains  of  nitrate 
of  silver  in  4  ounces  of  water.  Apply 
with  a  soft  tooth-brush,  wash  the  object 
thoroughly  with  water,  dry  with  a  soft 
linen  cloth,  and  polish  with  a  chamois 
skin.  Neither  whiting  nor  powder  of 
any  kind  should  be  used  for  cleaning 
and  polishing;  they  only  wear  out  or 
scratch  the  silver.  In  the  case  of  solid 
silver  some  precipitated  chalk  is  allow- 
able in  the  solution. 

For  preserving  the  lustre  of  silver  or 
plated  ware,  when  not  needed  for  actual 
use  for  a  considerable  time,  a  coating 
of  collodion  may  be  employed  to  great 
advantage.  The  articles  are  heated 
and  the  collodion  is  carefully  applied 
by  means  of  a  brush,  so  as  to  cover 
the  surface  thoroughly  and  uniformly. 
It  is  used  most  conveniently  when 
diluted  with  alcohol,  as  for  photo- 
graphic purposes. 

New  Polish  for  Wood.  Dissolve  6 
pounds  of  shellac  in  about  4  fo  5  gal- 
lons of  pure  alcohol.  Then  pour  3i 
ounces  of  high-grade  sulphuric  ether 
over  3i  ounces  of  collodion  cotton  in  a 
bottle,  add  If  ounces  of  camphor,  stir 
thoroughly  and  add  96  per  cent,  alco- 
hol enough  to  completely  dissolve  the 
cotton. 

Then  pour  both  solutions  together 
and  shake  well.  The  polish  is  then 
rubbed  in  with  an  oil  prepared  as  fol- 
lows :  Prepare  a  saturated  solution  of 
camphor  in  good  oil  of  rosemary  and 
add  If  ounces  of  this  to  2  pounds  3 
ounces  of  pure  linseed-oil.  For  finish- 
ing, dissolve  benzole  in  alcohol  and 
dilute  at  pleasure,  taking  care  to 
apply  the  solution  as  weak  as  practi- 
cable. 


420 


TECHNO-CHEM1CAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Polishing  Soaps  and  Pastes  have  been 
Recently  introduced,  and  as  they  are 
preferred  by  many  to  the  ordinary 
polishing  powders  for  cleansing  gold, 
silver,  brass,  etc*,  we  give  in  the  fol- 
lowing several  receipts  for  good  polish- 
ing soaps  and  one  for  polishing  paste. 

A  polishing  soap  especially  suitable 
for  silver  and  brass  is  prepared  as  fol- 
lows: Set  in  the  ordinary  manner  50 
pounds  of  cocoanut  oil  with  75  to  80° 
of  23°  soda,  and  boil  the  mixture  to  a 
clear  jelly.  When  the  soap  is  ready 
and  sufficiently  solidified  add  10 
pounds  of  tripoli,  5  pounds  of  alum,  5 
pounds  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  5  pounds 
of  white  lead,  all  previously  fi-nely  pul- 
verized and  intimately  mixed.  Pour 
the  mixture  into  small,  shallow  tin 
moulds,  and  it  will  quickly  solidify. 
For  .cleansing,  moisten  the  articles 
with  lukewarm  water  with  a  brush, 
and  apply  the  soap  with  a  rag. 

Another  polishing  soap  is  made  as 
follows:  Wash  commercial  colcothar 
in  water  6  to  8  times  and  then  dry  it. 
Next  prepare  a  soap  solution  by  dissolv- 
ing at  a  moderate  heat  6£  pounds  of 
cocoa  soap,  cut  in  pieces,  in  soft  water. 
Mix  intimately  i  pound  of  the  prepared 
colcothar  rubbed  up  with  a  little  water 
and  5i  ounces  of  purified  ammonium 
carbonate,  finely  pulverized,  and  add 
the  cold  soap  solution,  with  constant 
stirring.  Keep  the  polishing  soap  thus 
prepared  in  stone  jars  closed  with  oiled 
paper. 

Another  polishing  soap  is  prepared 
by  dissolving  14  ounces  of  Marseilles 
soap  in  i  gallon  of  water,  and  adding 
to  the  solution  7  ounces  of  finely-pul- 
verized chalk.  The  mixture  is  colored 
red  with  fuchsine  and  kept  in  stone 
jars.  By  applying  this  soap  with 
leather  or  a  woollen  rag  the  dirtiest 
articles  can  be  cleansed  in  a  short  time. 

For  preparing  polishing  paste  or 
pomade  ''melt  7  ounces  of  beef  marrow 
and  add  3  ounces  of  fine  colcothar. 
Perfume  the  mixture  with  oil  of 
almonds  and  pour  it  into  small  tin 
boxes.  Lard  may  be  used  instead  of 
beef  marrow.  Apply  the  paste  with  a 
soft  rag,  rub  thoroughly,  and  finish 
with  a  dry  rag. 

Restoring  Plush.  It  is  customary  to 
use  ammonia  for  the  purpose  of  neutral- 
izing acids  that  have  accidentally  de- 


stroyed  the  colors  of  fabrics.  This 
must  be  applied  immediately,  or  the 
color  is  usually  imperfectly  restored. 
An  application  of  chloroform,  used 
with  caution,  will,  however,  bring  out 
the  colors  as  bright  as  ever.  Plush 
goods  and  all  articles  dyed  with  aniline 
colors,  faded  from  exposure  to  light, 
will  look  as  bright  as  ever  after  spong- 
ing with  chloroform. 

To  Clean  Glass  and  Silverware. 
Egg  shells  crushed  into  small  pieces 
and  shaken  well  in  decanters  three 
parts  filled  with  cold  water  will  not 
only  clean  them  thoroughly  but  make 
the  glass  look  like  new.  By  rubbing 
with  a  flannel  dipped  in  the  best  whit- 
ing the  brown  discoloration  may  be 
taken  off  cups  in  which  custards  have 
been  baked.  Emery  powder  will  re- 
move ordinary  stains  from  white  ivory- 
handle  knives,  and  the  lustre  of  mo- 
rocco leather  is  restored  by  varnishing 
with  white  of  egg.  To  clean  silver 
nothing  is  better  than  alcohol  or  am- 
monia, finishing  with  a  little  whiting 
on  a  soft  cloth. 

To  Clean  Marble.  After  brushing 
the  dust  off  with  a  piece  of  chamois 
rub  the  marble  with  the  following  so- 
lution :  One-quarter  pound  of  soft-soap, 

1  pound  of  whiting,  and  1  ounce  of 
soda,  and  a  piece  of  stone-blue  the  size 
of  a  walnut.    Rub  it  over  the  marble 
with  a  piece  of  flannel  and  leave  it  for 
24  hours,  then  wash  it  off  with  clean 
water,  and  polish  the  marble  with  a 
piece  of  flannel  or  an  old  piece  of  felt. 

Another  method  is  as  follows :  Take 

2  parts  of  common   soda,   1   part  of 
pumice  stone,  and  1  part  of  finely  pow- 
dered chalk,  sift  it  through  a  fine  sieve, 
and  mix  it  to  a  paste  with  water.     Rub 
it  well  over  the  marble,  and  then  wash 
with  soap  and  water. 

To  take  stains  out  of  white  marble 
mix  1  ounce  of  ox  gall,  1  gill  of  lye, 
and  1-i  table-spoonfuls  of  turpentine, 
and  make  it  into  a  paste  with  pipe-clay. 
Put  the  paste  over  the  stain  and  let  it 
remain  for  several  days.  To  remove 
oil  stains  apply  common  clay  saturated 
with  benzine.  If  the  grease  has  re- 
mained in  long  the  polish  will  be  in- 
jured ;  but  the  stain  will  be  removed. 
Iron  mould  or  ink  spots  are  taken  out . 
in  the  following  manner :  Dissolve  i 
ounce  of  butter  of  antimony  and  1 


COLORS,  WATER-PROOFING  SUBSTANCES,  ETC. 


421 


ounce  of  oxalic  acid  in  1  pint  of  rain 
water,  and  add  enough  flour  to  bring 
the  mixture  to  a  proper  consistency. 
Lay  it  evenly  on  the  stained  part  with 
a  brush,  and,  after  it  has  remained  for 
a  few  days,  wash  it  oft',  and  repeat  the 
process,  if  the  stain  be  not  wholly 
removed. 

To  Cleanse  Silvered  Dial  Plates. 
Silvered  dial  plates  of  clocks  frequently 
lose  their  lustre  by  the  effect  of  air  and 
smoke  or  sulphurous  emanations.  To 
cleanse  them  make  pulverized  purified 
tartar  into  a  paste  with  water.  Take 
some  of  the  paste  on  a  brush  of  bristles 
and  rub  the  dial  plate  with  it,  turning 
it  constantly,  until  the  silvering  has 
acquired  its  original  whiteness  and 
lustre.  Then  wash  the  dial  plate  with 
clean  water  and  dry  by  gentle  patting 
with  cloth,  and  finally  expose  it  for 
a  few  minutes  to  a  moderate  heat. 

To  Clean  Smoky  Walls.  Brush  them 
with  a  broom,  then  wash  them  over 
with  strong  pearlash  water,  and  im- 
mediately rinse  them  with  clean  water 
before  the  pearlash  is  dry.  When  dry, 
give  the  walls  a  thin  coat  of  fresh 
slaked  lime  containing  a  liberal  portion 
of  alum  dissolved  in  hot  water.  Finish 
with  whiting  and  good  size.  Be  care- 
ful not  to  apply  the  size  distemper  till 
the  lime  wash  is  dry,  as  the  latter  will 
destroy  the  strength  of  the  size  if  the 
two  come  in  contact  while  wet. 


COLORS,  ENAMELS,  CEMENTS,  GLUE, 
VARNISHES,  WATER  -  PROOFING 
SUBSTANCES,  ETC. 

American  Wood- filler.  Mix  1  part 
by  weight  each  of  pulverized  starch 
and  heavy  spar  and  i  part  by  weight 
of  siccative  with  sufficient  turpentine 
to  the  consistency  of  ordinary  varnish. 
For  dark  woods  add  up  to  4  part  by 
weight  of  umber  to  the  siccative. 

Apply  the  filler  with  a  medium  stiff 
brush.  When  the  coat,  at  first  lus- 
trous, becomes  dull,  remove  everything 
from  the  surface  by  rubbing  across  the 
grain  of  the  wood  with  a  piece  of  felt  or 
strong  leather  fastened  to  a  piece  of 
wood.  Allow  the  prepared  wood  to 
dry  8  hours,  then  rub  thoroughly  with 

S'ass  paper,  and  it  is  ready  for  polish  - 
g  or  varnishing. 


I      Cement  for  Mending  Enamelled  Dial 

|  Plates.  Scrape  some  pure  white  wax, 
mix  it  with  equal  parts  of  zinc  white, 
melt  the  mixture  over  a  spirit  lump, 
and  let  it  cool.  For  use,  warm  the  dial 
plate  slightly  and  press  the  cold  cement 
into  the  defective  places.  The  cement 
adheres  very  firmly  and  by  scraping 
with  a  sharp  knife  acquires  a  white  ami 
lustrous  surface.  In  case  the  cement 
should  be  too  hard  add  some  wax,  and 
if  too  soft  some  zinc  Avhite.  Cleanli- 
ness in  the  manipulation  and  moderate 

;  heating  in  mixing  are  the  principal 
points  and  contribute  essentially  to  the 
snow-white  color  of  the  cement. 

Crystalline    Coating   for    Wood    or 

;  Paper.  Mix  a  very  concentrated  so- 
lution of  salt  with  dextrine  and  lay  the 
thinnest  coating  of  the  fluid  on  the  sur- 
face to  be  covered  by  means  of  a  broad 
soft  brush.  After  drying,  the  surface 
has  a  beautiful,  bright,  mother-of-pearl 
coating,  which,  in  consequence  of  the 
dextrine,  adheres  firmly  to  paper  and 
wood.  The  coating  may  be  made  ad- 
hesive to  glass  by  going  over  it  with  an 
alcoholic  shellac  solution.  The  follow- 
ing salts  are  mentioned  as  adapted  to 
produce  the  most  beautiful  crystalline 
coating,  viz. :  Magnesium  sulphate, 
sodium  acetate,  and  tin  sulphate.  Paper 
must  first  be  sized;  otherwise  it  will 
absorb  the  liquid  and  prevent  the  for- 
mation of  crystals. 

Enamel  for  Fine  Cards  and  Other 
Purposes.  For  white  and  for  all  pale 
and  delicate  shades  take  24  parts  by 
weight  of  paraffme,  add  100  parts  of 
pure  kaolin  (china  clay)  very  dry,  and 
reduce  to  a  fine  powder.  Before  mix- 
ing with  the  kaolin  the  paraffine 
must  be  heated  to  the  'fusing  point. 
Let  the  mixture  cool,  and.it  will  form 
a  homogeneous  mass,  which  for  use  is 
reduced  to  powder,  and  worked  into 
paste  in  a  paint  mill  with  warm  water. 
It  can  be  tinted  according  to  fancy. 

Imitation  of  Cinnabar.  Dissolve  in 
5  parts  of  warm  water  made  slightly- 
alkaline  by  the  addition  of  a  small 
quantity  of  soda  1  part  of  eosin,  and 
add  with  constant  stirring  100  parts  of 
best  orange  minium ;  then  add  3  parts 
of  sugar  of  lead  or  lead  nitrate  dis- 
solved in  warm  water.  The  mass  is 
filtered  and  pressed,  and  the  press 
cakes  are  cut  into  small  pieces  and 


422 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


dried  as  quickly  as  possible.  After 
drying  the  product  is  ground  and  passed 
through  a  fine  sieve. 

Enamel  free  from  Lead  and  Metallic 
Oxides  for  Iron  and  Sheet-iron,  and 
Utensils  Manufactured  from  them: 


PARTS. 


PARTS. 


Silica    .    . 

30  to  50  or  quartz      .     30  to  50 

Flint    .     . 

10  to  20 

granite     .     20  to  30 

Kaoline 

10  to  20 

borax  .     .     16  to  20 

Pipe-clay  . 

8  to  10 

glass    .     .       fi  to  10 

Chalk   .     . 

6  to  10 

magnesia     10  to  15 

Porcelain  meal    5  to  15 

fluorspar  .       5  to  20 

weathered) 

Boracic  acid  .     20  to  40 

sodium       V10  to  20 

carbonate  ) 

Saltpetre  .     .      6  to  10 

heavy  spar     2  to    8 

Gypsum    ,     .        2  to  6 

fluorspar.      3  to  10 

After  grinding  every  ingredient  sepa- 
rately they  are  all  intimately  mixed  and 
fused  to  enamel.  This,  after  again 
grinding,  is  applied  and  -burnt  in. 

The  proportions  of  these  constituents 
may  vary  according  to  the  nature  of  the 
metal  to  be  enamelled.  The  enamel 
should  be  applied  in  thin  layers,  as  it 
expands  in  different  proportions  from 
the  sheet-iron  on  exposure  to  a  high 
temperature.  The  articles  must  be 
slowly  cooled,  as  otherwise  an  unequal 
contraction  takes  place,  which  causes 
the  enamel  to  crack  off. 

New  Method  for  the  Production  of 
Water-proof  and  Incombustible  Fabrics. 
The  fabric  is  immersed  for  a  few  minutes 
in  a  7  to  8  per  cent,  solution  of  gelatine 
heated  to  104°  F.,  then  pressed  out 
between  rollers  and  dried  to  a  certain 
degree  in  the  air.  It  is  then  placed 
for  a  few  minutes  in  a  cold  30  to  40  per 
cent,  solution  of  alum,  hung  up  for  an 
hour  in  the  air,  washed  in  cold  water, 
and  dried.  It  is  claimed  that  by  this 
process,  which  is  patented  in  England, 
the  fabric  is  rendered  water-proof  and 
incombustible  without  becoming  .stiff 
or  losing  its  ductility,  or  preventing 
the  free  passage  of  air. 

Phosphorescent  Enamel.  Commercial 
phosphorescent  paint  in  powder  is  inti- 
mately mixed  with  §  of  its  weight  of 
very  finely-pulverized  fluorspar  or 
cryolite,  and  i  of  calcium  borate.  The 
mixture  is  made  into  a  paste  with  water, 
and  applied  in  a  uniform  layer  to  the 
articles  to  be  enamelled  by  means  of  a 
brush.  They  are  then  burnt  in  the 
usual  manner. 


Preparation  of  Lustre-colors  with 
Carbolic  Acid.  The  present  methods 
of  preparing  lustre-colors,  which  are 
much  used  in  the  decoration  of  earthen- 
ware and  glass,  have  the  disadvantage 
that  a  large  portion  of  the  metallic 
salts  remains  undissolved,  and  is  sepa- 
rated and  lost  in  an  undissolved  state 
in  dissolving  the  resinous  mass.  With 
the  aid  of  carbolic  acid  it  is  possible 
to  prepare  lustre-colors  without  an  ap- 
preciable loss  of  metallic  combinations. 

Bismuth  Lustre.  Dissolve  10  parts 
by  weight  of  bismuth  in  nitro-muriatic 
acid  and  evaporate  to  the  consistency 
of  thin  syrup.  When  cold  add  50  parts 
by  weight  of  carbolic  acid  liquefied  by 
moderate  heating  in  warm  water.  Let 
the  mixture  stand  a  fe.w  hours,  as  by 
stirring  and  heating  at  once  a  too  ener- 
getic reaction,  accompanied  by  strong 
foaming,  takes  place.  Then  stir  the 
mixture  with  a  glass  rod  and  heat  it 
for  some  time  in  a  steam-bath.  During 
this  operation  vapors  of  hydrochloric 
acid  are  evolved.  The  mass  is  taken 
from  the  steam-bath  as  soon  as  a  drop 
taken  from  the  vessel  by  means  of  the 
glass  rod  dissolves  clear  in  nitro-ben- 
zole.  When  this  is  the  case  the  mixture 
is  dissolved  in  nitro-benzole  and  is 
ready  for  use. 

Tin  Lustre.  Dissolve  10  parts  by 
•weight  of  tin  in  nitro-muriatic  acid, 
evaporate  to  the  consistency  of  thin 
syrup,  and  treat  with  50  parts  by  weight 
of  carbolic  acid  in  the  same  manner  as 
prescribed  for  bismuth  lustre.  The 
subsequent  treatment  for  this  and  the 
following  preparations  is  the  same  as 
that  of  bismuth  lustre. 

Uranium  Lustre.  Dissolve  15  parts 
by  weight  of  uranic  nitrate  in  40  parts 
by  weight  of  pure  hydrochloric  acid, 
and  treat  with  50  parts  by  weight  of 
carbolic  acid. 

Iron  Lustre.  Dissolve  15  parts  by 
weight  of  ferrous  chloride  in  pure  hy- 
drochloric acid,  and  after  evaporating 
to  the  consistency  of  thin  syrup  treat 
with  50  parts  by  weight  of  carbolic 
acid. 

In  the  same  manner  as  iron  lustre 
manganese  lustre  is  prepared  from 
manganous  chloride,  nickel  lustre  from 
nickel  chloride,  and  cobalt  lustre  from 
cobaltous  chloride. 

For  the  production  of  combination 


COPYING. 


423 


lustres  the  different  preparations  are 
mixed  together. 

Soap  Varnishes.  These  varnishes 
are  valuable  on  account  of  their  cheap- 
ness, their  resistance  to  water,  and  their 
elasticity.  The  simplest  mode  of  pre- 
paring them  is  as  follows :  Tallow  soap 
is  boiled  in  rain  water  until  a  clear 
solution  is  formed,  and  the  hot  solution 
filtered  through  a  cloth.  It  is  then 
again  heated,  and  after  diluting  with 
an  equal  volume  of  rain  water  precipi- 
tated with  boiling  solution  of  alum. 
The  precipitated  stearate  of  aluminium 
is  washed  several  times  with  boiling 
water  and  dried,  heated  on  a  water-bath 
until  transparent,  and  stirred  into  hot 
turpentine  until  it  forms  a  thick  varnish, 
which,  if  too  thick,  can  be  thinned  with 
hot  turpentine. 

Johnson's  Varnish  for  Water-proofing 
Paper  or  Cloth.  Dissolve  green  vitriol 
in  water,  add  soap  to  the  solution,  and 
collect  and  dry  the  precipitate  of  stear- 
ate of  iron  or  iron  soap.  By  dissolving 
the  stearate  of  iron  in  carbon  sulphide 
or  benzole  a  liquid  is  obtained  which 
leaves  a  water-proof  layer  upon  paper 
or  cloth.  If  the  paper  or  cloth  is  to 
remain  white,  alum  solution  is  substi- 
tuted for  the  green  vitriol,  and  the  re- 
sulting white  stearate  of  aluminium  is 
used  in  the  same  manner. 

Soap  Varnish  for  Gilding.  This  is 
prepared  from  resin  soap  which  is  made 
by  heating  a  solution  of  50  parts  of 
soda  in  150  of  water  to  the  boiling 
point,  and  adding  gradually  and  witli 
constant  stirring  100  parts  o'f  powdered 
rosin;  the  boiling  is  then  continued 
2  or  3  hours  until  the  liquid  is  trans- 
parent. After  cooling  and  pouring  off 
the  supernatant  fluid  the  resin  soap  is 
mixed  with  100  parts  of  water  and  15 
of  soaked  glue  and  heated  until  the 
whole  is  dissolved.  This  is  a  quick- 
drying  varnish,  but  can  be  made  slow- 
drying  by  adding  10  to  20  parts  of  glyc- 
erine of  28°  B.  The  resin  soap  mixed 
with  5  per  cent,  of  its  weight  of  am- 
monia forms  a  cheap  and  durable 
vehicle  for  paint. 

Water-proof  Glue.  Dissolve  of  gum 
sandarac  and  mastic  each  5i  drachms  in 
i  pint  of  alcohol  and  add  5J  drachms  of 
turpentine.  Place  the  solution  in  a 
glue  boiler  upon  the  fire  and  gradually 
stir  into  it  an  equal  quantity  of  a  strong, 


hot  solution  of  glue  and  isinglass.  The 
mixture  is  ready  for  use  after  straining 
it,  while  hot,  through  a  cloth. 

For  gluing  mineral  substances  it  is 
best  to  stir  5-i  drachms  of  finely-pulver- 
i/ed  glass  into  the  strained  mixture. 
Articles  glued  with  this  preparation  can 
be  placed  under  water  without  danger, 
of  the  glued  parts  separating. 


COPYING. 

New  Method  of  Copying  Drawing*. 
The  paper  on  which  the  copy  is  to 
appear  is  first  dipped  in  a  bath  con- 
sisting of  30  parts  of  white  soap,  30 
parts  of  alum,  40  parts  of  glue,  10  parts 
of  albumen,  2  parts  of  glacial  acetic 
acid,  10  parts  of  alcohol  of  60°,  and 
500  parts  of  water.  It  is  afterwards 
put  into  a  second  bath  which  contains 
50  parts  of  burnt  umber  ground  in  al- 
cohol, 20  parts  of  lampblack,  10  parts 
of  glue,  and  10  parts  of  bichromate  of 
potassium  in  500  parts  of  water.  The 
paper  is  now  sensitive  to  light  and 
must  therefore  be  preserved  in  the 
dark.  In  preparing  paper  to  make  the 
positive  print  another  bath  is  made 
just  like  the  first  one,  except  that 
lampblack  is  substituted  for  the  burnt 
umber.  To  obtain  colored  positives 
the  black  is  replaced  by  some  blue,  red, 
or  other  pigment.  In  making  the  copy 
the  drawing  to  be  copied  is  put  in  a 
photographic  printing-frame,  and  the 
negative  paper  laid  on  it  and  then  ex- 
posed in  the  usual  manner.  In  clear 
weather  an  illumination  of  two  minutes 
will  suffice.  After  the  exposure  the 
negative  is  put  in  water  to  develop  it, 
and  the  drawing  will  appear  in  white 
on  a  dark  ground  :  in  other  words  it  m 
a  negative  or  reverse  picture.  The 
paper  is  then  dried  and  a  positive  made 
irom  it  by  placing  it  on  the  glass  of  a 
printing-frame  and  laying  the  positive 
paper  upon  it  and  exposing  as  before. 
After  placing  the  frame  in  the  sun  for 
two  minutes  the  positive  is  taken  out 
and  put  in  water.  The  black  dissolves 
off  without  the  necessity  of  moving  it 
back  and  forth. 

Phytochromotypy.  This  is  a  process 
of  producing  impressions  of  leaves  and 
plants  and  is  effected  as  follows :  The 
plant  is  first  dried  and  flattened  by 


424 


TECIINO-CIIEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


pressure  between  unsized  paper,  or  it 
may  be  done  rapidly  with  a  hot  iron. 
The  surface  to  be  copied  is  then  brushed 
with  a  solution  of  aniline  color  in 
alcohol  and  allowed  to  dry,  which  will 
take  place  very  rapidly.  If  the  im- 
pression is  to  be  taken  on  paper,  im- 
merse the  latter  in  water  for  a  few 
seconds,  and  remove  the  excess  by 
pressing  between  blotting-paper.  Place 
it  then  on  some  non-absorbing  surface 
and  apply  the  plant  colored  side  down ; 
place  over  it  a  sheet  of  strong  paper, 
and  while  it  is  held  securely  in  position 
stamp  the  whole  surface  with  a  wad  of 
cotton.  A  cold  iron  may  be  lightly 
passed  over  the  paper  instead  of  using 
the  cotton,  and  if  a  few  sheets  of  tissue 
paper  are  interposed  between  the  paper 
and  plant  its  outline  and  veins  prin- 
cipally will  be  copied,  while  without  it 
the  whole  surface  may  be  impressed  on 
the  paper.  If  the  paper  which  is  to  re- 
ceive the  impression  is  moistened  with 
alcohol  instead  of  water,  the  impression 
will  be  brighter  and  the  paper  will  re- 
tain its  lustre  or  glaze  better.  If  a  very 
light  coating  of  glycerine  be  spread 
upon  the  colored  plant  when  perfectly 
dry,  and  the  excess  removed  by  un- 
glazed  paper,  one  or  more  prints  may 
be  immediately  taken  upon  dry  paper 
or  other  dry  surface.  If  the  print 
fihows  blots  when  a  strong  color  is  used, 
pass  over  the  surface  with  a  solution 
of  saltpetre  which  will  moderate  the 
impression.  Different  parts  of  plants 
may  be  colored  differently  to  conform 
to  nature  or  individual  taste.  Defects 
may  be  touched  up  with  a  pen  dipped 
in  the  color. 

EXPLOSIVE  AGENTS. 

Wasting  Cartridges.  Dissolve  73 
parts  of  saltpetre  and  1  of  magnesium 
sulphate  in  ^  of  their  weight  of  boiling 
water,  and  compound  with  8  parts  of 
ground  wood  charcoal,  8  of  bran,  and 
10  of  sulphur,  previously  jnixed  dry. 
Stir  the  mass  thoroughly,  and  heat  for 
2  hours  at  a  temperature  of  284°  F., 
and  then  dry  in  a  drying  apparatus  for 
5  hours  at  a  temperature  of  122°  F. 
The  dried  mass  is  pressed  into  cylin- 
ders, four  of  which  are  generally 
formed  into  a  cartridge  in  a  paper 
shell. 


Bla  sting  Paper.  Coat  «  n  sized  paper 
with  a  hot  mixture  of  11  drachms  of 
ferrocyanide  of  potassium  dissolved  in 
3i  pints  of  water,  11  ounces  of  bass- 
wood  charcoal,  H  ounces  of  refined 
saltpetre,  2£  ounces  of  potassium  chlo- 
rate, and  6£  drachms  of  wheat  starch, 
stirred  to  a  paste  with  14  ounces  of 
water  ;  dry  and  smooth.  For  use  roll 
strips  of  the  prepared  paper  into  car- 
tridges. 

Explosive  Combination.  An  explo- 
sive combination  consists,  according  to 
a  French  patent,  of  80  parts  of  pow- 
dered potassium  chlorate,  20  parts  of 
ordinary  coal  tar,  and  a  porous,  ab- 
sorbent substance,  such  as  pulverized 
wood-charcoal  or  silicious  earth.  Po- 
tassium permanganate  can  be  substi- 
tuted for  a  portion  of  the  chlorate. 

Explosive  Substance.  This,  accord- 
ing to  an  English  patent,  consists  of  9 
parts  of  potassium  chlorate,  2  of  carbo- 
hydrate (sugar),  1  of  flour,  and  1  of  fer- 
rocyanide of  potassium. 

Explosive  and  Pyrotechnic  Sub- 
stances. Ferrocyanide  of  potassium, 
saltpetre,and  chlorate 
of  potassium  are  dis- 
solved and  mixed 
with  pulverized  char- 
coal. The  water  is 
then  evaporated,  and 
the  substances  are 
combined  by  the  ad- 
mixture of  paramne 
or  resins.  The  paraf- 
fiiie  is  used  either 
melted  or  dissolved 
in  benzine.  The  mass 
is  made  into  any  de- 
sired shape,  and  can 
also  be  used  for  coat- 
ing paper. 

Method  of  Blasting 
under  Water  with 
Compressed  Gun-cot- 
ton. In  the  accom- 
C  panying  illustration, 
Fig.  60,  aa  represent 
layers  of  gun-cotton, 
b  the  cartridge  of  com- 
pressed gun-cotton, 
and  d  the  quick  match 
with  the  cap.  The 


Fig.  60. 


cartridge  is  enclosed  in  the  rubber  tube 
e,  which  on  the  top  is  fastened  water- 
tight around  the  quick-match,  so  that 


EXPLOSIVE  AGENTS. 


425. 


when  the  cartridge  is-,  placed  under 
water  the  latter  can  penetrate  the  gun- 
cotton  only  from  below.  The  entire 
charge  is  enclosed  in  the  tin  case  c, 
which  is  open  on  top  and  bottom  for 
the  passage  of  water.  The  cartridge  re- 
mains explosible  until  all  the  gun- 
cotton  is  soaked  through  by  the  water 
entering  from  below,  which  with  a 
cartridge  about  1  inch  in  diameter  and 
4$  inches  long  will  be  the  wise  in  ex- 
actly 22  hours,  which  makes  the  unex- 
pected explosion  of  a  charge  missing 
fire  impossible  after  that  time. 

New  Blasting  Powder.  Saltpetre, 
potassium  chlorate,  and  finely-pulver- 
ized coal-tar  pitch  are  converted  with 
benzine  into  a  plastic  paste,  which  is 
made  into  flat  cakes  and  freed  from  the 


of  this  powder  are:  1.  Facility  and 
quickness  of  manufacture.  2.  Safety 
in  its  preparation.  3.  Absence  of  all 
hygroscopic  properties  (4  ounces  placed 
upon  a  very  sensitive  scale  in  an  open- 
window  for  4  days  of  misty  weather  did 
not  increase  in  weight).  4.  Superior 
force,  2i  times  that  of  ordinary  powder. 
5.  Very  small  residue.  6.  Scarcely 
perceptible  smoke.  , 

New  Method  of  Preparing  Giant 
Powder.  Two  mixtures  are  prepared  : 

a.  36.06  parts  of  potassium  or  sodium 
bisulphate,  28.60  of  potassium  nitrate, 
and  9.20  of  glycerine. 

6.  50  to  55  parts  of  some  chlorate,  and 
50  to  45  parts  of  a  substance  rich  inr 
carbon. 

On  igniting  a  mixture  of  the  two,  it 


Fig.  61. 


benzine  by  evaporation,  and  then 
worked  in  the  samemannerasordinary 
powder.  The  grains,  which,  like  those 
of  the  ordinary  article,  are-irregular  in 
form,  can  be  made  of  any  desired  size. 
The  density,  which  is  0.9  or  somewhat 
more,  corresponds  with  that  of  ordinary 
gunpowder.  This  new  powder  pos- 
sesses considerable  hardness,  does  not 
lose  color,  even  when  wet,  and  without 
undergoing  a  change  stands  a  higher 
degree  of  heat  than  that  of  melting 
tin.  It  is  not  inflammable  by  single 
sparks  of  short  duration.  Ignited  free, 
it  burns  quickly  with  a  white  flame; 
in  a  closed  space  it  burns,  however, 
very  energetically  with  little  smoke 
and  leaving  a  very  small  residue.  A 
gun  is  not  in  the  least  affected  by  its 
combustion  products.  The  advantages 


is  claimed  mixture  6  evolves  sufficient 
heat  to  effect  the  nitrification  of  the 
glycerine  and  explosion  of  the  nitro- 
glycerine. The  material  rich  in  carbon 
is  saturated  with  concentrated  solution* 
of  the  bisulphate,  nitrate,  and  chlorate, 
and  dried.  The  mass  is  then  mixed 
with  the  glycerine  and  made  into  car- 
tridges. 

Preparation  of  Hyponitric  Acid  and 
its  Use.  for  Explosive  and  Illuminating 
Substances.  The  following  process  has 
been  patented  in  France  and  Germany : 
Nitrate  of  lead  is  heated  in  the  retort 
A  (Fig.  61).  The  developed  gases  are 
first  conducted  through  sulphuric  acid, 
which  retains  the  moisture,  and  then 
into  the  condensers  C  of  enamelled  cast- 
iron,  which  rest  in  the  cooling  vessel  E, 
whose  cooling  fluid  is  kept  at  zero  by 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


the  ice  machine  G.  While  the  oxygen 
escapes  for  further  use  through  Dy  the 
hyponitrie  acid  collects  in  the  reser- 
voirs IT  and  </,  the  first  of  which  is  pro- 
vided with  a  test-cock  for  the  examina- 
tion of  the  acid.  The  reservoir  /  con- 
tains sulphuric  acid.  From  J  the 
hyponitrie  acid  is  brought  by  the  pump 
O  into  the  vessel  L,  and  from  there  is 
drawn  into  tin  cans.  The  oxide  of  lead 
in  the  retorts  is  reconverted  into  nitrate 
by  nitric  acid. 

A  mixture  of  carbon  di-sulphide  and 
hyponitric  acid  is  a  powerful  explosive, 
which  is  exploded  by  fulminate  of  mer- 
cury or  gunpowder.  It  does  not  ex- 
plode by  a  shock  alone,  nor  by  heating 
to  398°  F.  A  mixture  of  equal  parts 
of  hyponitrie  acid  and  carbon  di-sul- 
phide gives  the  most  powerful  explo- 
sion. 

The  mixture  burns  in  the  open  air 
with  a  brilliant  white  light,  wnich  is 
powerfully  actinic. 


GLASS, 

Appert's  Method  of  Blowing  Glass 
by  Means  of  Compressed  Air.  The  air 
is  compressed  by  a  double  cylinder 
pump  to  50  pounds  per  square  inch. 
The  compressed  air  passes  into  12  steel 
reservoirs,  which  together  form  a  bat- 
tery. 

Each  reservoir  has  a  capacity  of 
150  gallons,  and  is  tested  to  stand  a 
working  pressure  of  70  pounds  per 
square  inch.  A  cylinder  placed  on  the 
side  is  provided 'with  a  safety-valve 
with  an  alarm  whistle.  The  reser- 
voirs serve  .as  accumulators  for  night 
work. 

Lead  pipes,  1  inch  in  diameter,  are 
used  for  distributing  the  compressed 
air.  They  are  placed  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  work-room,  and  provided  at 
suitable  places  with  discharge-cocks. 
For  blowing  large  vessels  the  air  can 
be  taken  direct  from  the  conduit,  while 
for  small  articles  the  air  is  conducted 
into  collecting  cylinders,  and  the  press- 
ure regulated  according  to  the  nature 
of  the  articles  to  be  blown. 

The  compressed  air  is  conducted  to 
every  large  room  by  underground  iron 
pipes  connected  with  the  accumulators 
and  the  collecting  cylinder,  which  is 


provided  with  contrivances  by  which 
the  pressure  can  be  regulated  to  J 
ounce  to  the  square  inch.  From  the 
pressure  regulator  conduits  lying  upon 
the  floor  lead  to  the  work-places  of  the 
glass-blowers.  The  conduits  are  pro- 
vided with  cocks  which  can  be  regu- 
lated by  the  workman  with  the  foot. 
On  the  cocks  are  rubber  pipes  commu- 
nicating with  the  air-nozzle,  consisting 
of  a  rubber  cone  enclosed  by  a  copper 
case  which  is  fastened  to  an  iron  pipe 
movable  in  a  stationary  pipe.  The 
two  pipes  are  separated  from  each  other 
by  oiled  tow. 

One  end  of  the  pipe  is  connected  with 
the  nozzle.  Figs.  62  to  74  represent  the 
manner  of  connection. 

The  glass-blower  works  upon  a  bench 
upon  which  the  pipe  connected  with 
the  nozzle  is  carried  by  a  small  car- 
riage, which  moves  in  a  frame  fastened 
to  the  ledge  of  the  bench,  and  is  pro- 
vided with  1  vertical  and  4  horizontal 
rollers. 

For  fashioning  an  article  a  curved 
metal  pipe  called  a  "swan  neck"  is 
used.  It  is  connected  with  the  air-noz- 
zle by  means  of  a  piece  of  rubber  pipe, 
which  rests  upon  the  blowing-pipe, 
which  is  held  straight. 

A  third  arrangement  allows  of  blow- 
ing free  in  the  air  by  holding  the  blow- 
ing-pipe perpendicular  or  slanting,  the 
glass  being  always  under  it. 

It  will  be  readily  understood  that  by 
varying  the  shape  and  adjustments  of 
the  pipes  fastened  to  the  air-holes  and 
by  fitting  to  the  pipes  rubber  hose  of 
various  lengths  and  connecting  each 
with  a  nozzle,  the  blowing-pipe  can  be 
given  any  desired  mobility,  and  the 
smallest  as  well  as  the  largest  articles, 
for  instance  cylinders  3  feet  in  diam- 
eter, can  be  blown  with  the  greatest 
ease. 

Another  use  of  compressed  air  is  for 
the  manufacture  of  pressed  glass.  Ap- 
pert's apparatus  consists  of  a  cylinder, 
in  which  moves  a  piston.  Thick  rubber 
plates  on  both  ends  of  the  piston-track 
serve  for  breaking  the  shocks.  The 
core  is  fastened  to  the  lower  part  of  the 
piston,  whose  motion  can  be  accurately 
regulated. 

The  piston  is  put  in  motion  by  a  slide- 
valve  constructed  similar  to  that  of  a 
steam-engine.  This  machine  can  exert 


GLASS. 


427 


Figs.  62  and  65, 

a  pressure  of  1450  pounds,  and  the 
pressure  is  carried  out  with  such  rapid- 
ity that  extremely  thin  articles  can  be 
made.  The  average  capacity  of  the 


machine  is  100  piston  strokes  per  hour, 
with  a  consumption  of  2  cubic  feet  of 
compressed  air. 

The  expenses  of  blowing  glass  by 
compressed  air  are  not  increased,  but 
on  account  of  the  great  rapidity  of  the 
work  rather  diminished ;  and,  besides, 
the  work  is  easier  on  the  workmen  and 
the  process  does  away  with  many  evils 
of  the  present  manner  of  blowing 


Without  the  aid  of  illustrations  it 
would  be  difficult  to  give  a  complete 
description  of  the  process.  From  the 
accompanying  accurate  illustrations 
with  explanations  the  practical  impor- 
tance and  ingenious  arrangement  of 
the  process  will  be  readily  recog- 
nized : 

Figs.  62  and  63  show  a  section  of  the 
air-nozzle  into  which  the  workman  in- 
troduces his  blowing-pipe  in  the  mo- 
ment of  blowing. 

Fig.  64  is  a  longitudinal  .section 
through  the  working-room  of  the  glass- 
house. 

a.  Air  reservoir  under  a  pressure  of 
8.8  pounds. 


Fig.  64. 


428 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


Fig.  65. 


r 


Fig.  66. 


Fig,  67. 


GLASS. 


J 


Fig.  69, 


430 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


6.  Air  reservoir  under  a  pressure  of 
6i  ounces. 

c.  High-pressure  air  conduit. 

(1.  Low-pressure  air  conduit. 

Fig.  65.  Cross  section  through  the 
work-room  of  the  glass-blowers. 


Fig.  71. 


/.  Machine  for  compressing  air. 

g.  Pressure  regulator. 

oo.  Distributing  openings  with  stop- 
cocks. 

Fig.  66.  Automatic  pressure  regulator 
(Delaneare's  system). 

Fig.  67.  View  of  the  movable  appa- 


ratus called  a  "swan  neck,"  which 
serves  for  blowing  gas  and  lamp  chim- 
neys, bottles,  etc. 

Fig.  68.  Side  view  of  the  same  appa- 
ratus. 

Fig.  69.  General  arrangement  of  mir- 
ror rollers. 


a.  Distributing  plane  for  the  com* 
pressed  air. 

b.  Distributing    cock    turned     by 
treadles. 

cc'.  Treadles  upon  which  the  work- 
man places  his  foot. 

d.  Distributing  pipes. 

/.  Compensation  roller,  which,  ac- 
cording to  need,  permits  the  short- 
ening or  lengthening  of  the  rubber 
pipe. 


Figs.  73  and  74. 

Fig.  70.  Side  view  of  this  apparatus. 
Fig.  71.  Glass-blower's  bench.    Side 
view. 
Fig.  72."  Ground-plan  of  the  same. 

a.  Vessel  containing  compressed  air. 

b.  Cock     for    decreasing     pressure, 
which  is  turned  by  the  treadle  c. 

d.  Nozzle  into  which  the  workman 
inserts  his  blowing-pipe. 

e.  Frame  with  hinge-joints,  in  which 
moves  the  roller  arrangement  carrying 
the  air-nozzle. 

Figs.  73  and  74.  Apparatus  for  "  free 
blowing,"  for  the  manufacture  of  lamp- 
shades, flasks,  and  retorts. 

a.  Distributing  cock  turned  by  means 
of  the  pedal  c. 

b.  Nozzle  movable  around  the  shaft 
o,  which  .allows  the  pipe  to  assume  all 
positions  in  a  vertical  plane. 

Cutting  Glass  with. a  Carbon  Pencil. 
The  carbon  pencils  are  made  according 
to  different  receipts,  of  which  we  give 
three : 


GLASS. 


1.  Dissolve  100  parts  of  gum- Arabic 
in  240  parts  of  water,  and  mix  the  so- 
lution with  a  paste  prepared  by  trit- 
urating 40    parts   of   powdered    gum 
tragacanth  with  640  parts  of  hot  water. 
Then,   having  dissolved  20  parts    of 
storax  and  20  parts  of  benzoin  in  90 
parts  of  alcohol,  strain  the  latter  solu- 
tion and  add  to  it  the  mixed  mucilage. 
Finally  mix  the  whole  intimately  with  ! 
240  to  280  parts  of  powdered  charcoal, 
so  as  to  be  uniform  throughout.    The- 
charcoal  should  be  previously  passed 
through  a  fine  sieve.     The  doughy  mass 
is  cut  into  suitable  pieces,  which  are 
rolled  between  two  boards  dusted  over 
with  coal  dust  until  cylindrical  strips  j 
about  J  inch  in  thickness  are  formed, 
which  are  allowed  to  dry  slowly  be- 
tween   blotting-paper.      When    using 
them,  one  end  is  pointed  like  a  lead- 
pencil,   and,   after  having   previously 
made  a  scratch  in  the  glass  with  a  file 
or  diamond,  the  heated  and  glowing 
end  of  the  pencil  is  carried  along  the 
line  in  which  the  glass  is  intended  to 
be  fractured. 

2.  Dissolve  8  to  10  parts  of  gum  trag- 
acanth   in    about    100    parts   of    hot 
water,  add  to  the  mixture,  with  con- 
stant stirring,  30  parts  of  acetate  of 
lead  and  60  parts  of  finely-sifted  beach- 
wood  charcoal,  and  proceed  as  in  the 
previous  receipt. 

3.  Sticks    of  soft  wood    (willow  or 
poplar)  of  about  the  thickness  of  a  fin- 
ger, and  thoroughly  dry,  are  immersed 
for  about  one  week  in  a  concentrated 
solution  of  acetate  of  lead,  after  which 
they  are  again  dried.     When  ignited 
these  sticks  burn  like  glaziers'   char- 
coal. 

The  first  receipt  yields  the  best  prod- 
uct, as  it  burns  much  slower  than  the 
others.  These  pencils  maintain  a  more 
uniform  heat  than  a  hot  iron  which  is 
constantly  getting  cold. 

Etching  Ink  for  Glass.     Equal  parts 
of  hydrofluoric  acid,  fluoride  of  ammo- 
nium, and  dry  precipitated  barium  sul-  '< 
phate   are  rubbed  together  in  a  por- 1 
celain      mortar.       When      intimately  | 
mixed,  the  mass  is  transferred  to  a  dish  ; 
made    of    platinum,    lead,    or    gutta- 
percha,  and  fuming  hydrofluoric  acid 
poured  over  it  successively  and  rapidly 
stirred  with  a  gutta-percha  rod,  shaped 
like  a  pestle,  until  the  impression  left 


by  the  rod  quickly  vanishes.  The  re- 
sulting fluid  can  be  applied  with  an 
ordinary  steel -pen,  and  the  glass  written 
on  is  etched  immediately,  the  etched 
portions  being  so  beautifully  roughened 
that  they  are  visible  at  a  long  distance. 
The  ink  only  needs  to  act  for  15  sec- 
onds on  the  glass,  and  a  longer  action 
may  cause  the  edges  to  lose  their  sharp- 
ness. 

The  ink  cannot  of  course  be  kept  in 
glass  bottles,  but  only  in  gutta-percha 
vessels  closed  with  corks  protected 
with  wax  or  paraifine.  Owing  to  its 
greater  specific  gravity  the  barium 
compound  used  to  thicken  it  settles; 
hence  the  bottle  must  be  well  shaken 
each  time  before  using. 

In  making  good  etching  ink  the 
quality  of  the  barium  sulphate  is  of 
great  consequence.  It  is  best  prepared 
by  precipitating  barium  chloride  with 
an  excess  of  sulphuric  acid,  washing 
well  by  decahtation,  filtering,  and  dry- 
ing at  248°  F.  It  is  only  in  this  man- 
ner that  it  can  be  obtained  sufficiently 
fine  and  impalpable.  Concentrated 
hydrofluoric  acid  may  cause  serious  in- 
flammation and  even  ulcers  if  left  in 
contact  with  the  skin  for  some  time, 
so  that  care  should  be  taken,  both  in 
making  and  using  the  ink,  not  to  touch 
it  to  the  fingers. 

To  make  ordinary  etchings  more  dis- 
tinct and  visible  at  a  greater  distance 
it  is  frequently  necessary  with  delicate 
lines,  especially  on  graduated  chemical 
ware,  burettes,  eudiometers,  etc.,  to  rub 
some  clay,  red  lead,  or  soot  over  them. 
A  small  quantity  adheres  to  the  rough- 
ened surface,  but  it  soon  rubs  off.  The 
etchings  made  with  this  ink  are  so 
much  rougher  that  if  a  strip  of  metal  is 
rubbed  over  the  lines  some  will  adhere, 
and  they  acquire  the  color  and  lustre 
of  the  metal.  If  a  name  is  written  on 
glass  with  this  ink  and  the  spot  rubbed 
with  a  thick  brass  wire,  the  name  will 
appear  in  golden  letters,  and  may  be 
protected  by  a  thin  coat  of  colorless 
varnish.  Lead  may  also  be  used,  but 
for  chemical  apparatus  platinum  is  pre- 
ferred, as  it  easily  rubs  into  the  lines 
and  requires  no  protective  coating. 

Glass  ivith  Copper  Lustre.  Pins  with 
glass  heads  of  a  beautiful  coppery  ap- 
pearance are  found  in  commerce.  The 
glass  used  for  such  heads  is  composed  of 


432 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


45  per  cent,  of  fine  quartz  sand  contain- 
ing some  ferric  oxide  and  lime  (so-called 
silver  sand),  36  per  cent,  of  minium,  11 
per  cent,  of  soda,  2  per  cent,  of  salt- 
petre, 3.25  per  cent,  of  pyrolusite,  2.5 
per  cent,  of  cupric  oxide,  and  0.25  per 
cent,  of  crystallized  bismuth  nitrate. 

Mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly  and, 
after  melting  in  a  clay  crucible,  stir  the 
melted  mass  and  keep  it  in  flux  for 
some  time.  The  resulting  product 
when  cold  is  a  nearly  black  trans- 
parent glass,  which  can  be  easily 
shaped  into  pin-heads  and  fastened  to 
steel  pins  by  melting  in  the  blast  lamp. 
The  heads  show  at  first  the  dark  ap- 
pearance of  the  glass,  but  by  bringing 
the  melted  glass  mass,  when  no  longer 
at  a  red  heat,  into  the  interior  of  the 
blast  flame,  it  acquires  in  a  few  seconds 
the  appearance  and  lustre  of  polished 
copper. 

Lead-pencils  for  Glass  and  Porce- 
lain. A.  Blade  Pencils.  Ten  parts 
of  best  lampblack.  40  parts  of  white 
wax,  and  10  parts  of  suet. 

li.  White  Pencils.  Forty  parts  of 
Kremser  white,  20  parts  of  white  wax, 
and  10  ]>arts  of  suet. 

C.  Light-blue    Pencils.    Ten    parts 
of  Berlin  blue,  5  parts  of  white  wax, 
and  10  parts  of  suet. 

D.  Dark-blue  Pencils,    Fifteen  parts 
of  Berlin  blue,  5  parts  of  white  wax, 
and  14  parts  of  suet. 

K.  Yellow  Pencils,  Ten  parts  of 
chrome-yellow,  20  parts  of  white  wax, 
and  10  parts  of  suet. 

The  coloring  material  is  mixed  with 
the  heated  wax  and  suet,  the  mixture 
ground  and  sufficiently  dried  in  the  air 
to  allow  of  iis  being  pressed  into  roimd 
pencils  by  .means  of  a  hydraulic  press, 
and  treated  like  ordinary  lead-pencils. 
After  pressing,  the  pencils  are  dried  in 
the  air  uniil  they  have  acquired  suffi- 
cient solidity  to  be  glued  into  wooden 
cases. 

Lithium  Glass.  Lepidolite  is  con- 
tinuously heated  6  to  8  hours,  without, 
however,  being  allowed  to  fuse,  then 
cooled  in  water  and  converted  into  a 
fine  powder,  which  is  melted  in  clay 
pots  like  ordinary  glass  material  and 
worked  into  glass.  All  fluxes,  clarify- 
ing material,  and  coloring  matters  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  glass  can  be 
added  as  required  or  desired. 


Manufacture  of  Plate  Glass.  The 
following  is  one  of  the  formula?  gen- 
erally employed  :  Silica  78  parts,  pot- 
ash 2,  soda  13,  lime  5,  alumina  2.  The 
materials  in  a  comminuted  form  are 
fused  in  crucibles  or  pots,  exposed  to 
an  intense  heat  iii  a  furnace,  complete 
fusion  requiring  about  20  hours.  From 
the  pots  it  is  ladled  into  a  cistern, 
called  the  cuvette,  which  is  also  placed 
in  a  hot  furnace,  where  it  remains  until 
the  glass  is  fired  and  in  proper  con- 
dition to  flow  readily  and  equably. 
When  this  is  the  case  the  cuvette  is 
lifted  out  of  the  furnace  by  means  of 
tongs  and  hoisted  on  to  a  carriage  by 
which  it  is  moved  to  the  casting  table. 
It  is  then  skimmed  to  remove  impur- 
ities from  its  surface,  and  hoisted  by  a 
crane  immediately  over  the  casting 
table.  The  casting  table  is  surrounded 
by  side  and  end  ledges  corresponding  in 
depth  to  the  thickness  of  the  plate  to 
be  made,  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the 
liquefied  glass  which  is  poured  upon  it 
by  tilting  the  cuvette.  During  the 
pouring  a  washer  is  drawn  immediately 
in  front  of  the  glass  to  remove  any  dirt 
from  the  casting  slab,  and  when  this 
has  been  covered  to  the  requisite  depth 
a  heavy  copper  roller  is  drawn  over  the 
surface  of  the  glass,  causing  it  to  ex- 
hibit a  beautiful  iridescent  play  of 
colors ;  this  roller  flattens  its  upper  sur- 
face and  causes  an  excess  of  the  metal 
to  be  thrown  off  at  the  end  of  the  table, 
where  it  is  received  in  a  trough  of  water. 

A  thick  flange  of  the  glass  is  turned 
up  at  the  end  of  the  plate,  to  which, 
when  somewhat  hardened,  a  rake- 
sliaped  iron  is  applied,  by  which  it  is 
forced  into  the  annealing  oven,  or  upon 
a  carriage  by  which  it  is  conveyed  to 
the  oven.  As  the  plate  is  yet  plastic, 
its  under  side  takes  an  impression  from 
the  bricks  of  the  oven,  while  the  upper 
surface,  though  smooth,  is  uneven;  it 
consequently  requires  to  be  ground 
and  polished.  After  remaining  in  the 
oven  about  5  days,  and  being  allowed 
to  cool  gradually,  it  is  carefully  ex- 
amined to  see  if  it  will  admit  of  being 
finished  as  a  single  plate,  or  whether  it 
has  flaws  or  knots  which  necessitate  it 
being  cut  into  smaller  pieces.  If  the 
latter  be  the  case  the  defective  por- 
tions are  cut  out  and  the  remainder 
.serves  for  plates  of  less  size.  In  either 


GLASS. 


433 


case  the  plates  are  embedded  in  plaster- 
of- Paris  upon  stone  tables  about  8  feet 
wide  and  15  feet  long.  The  tables  are 
arranged  in  pairs  at  about  10  feet  dis- 
tance apart. 

Other  plates  of  glass  are  cemented  to 
the  under  surfaces  of  the  two  swing- 
tables  or  runners,  which  by  means  of  a 
horizontal  frame  between  each  are 
caused  to  traverse  backward  and  for- 
ward, a  circular  motion  being  at  the 
same  time  imparted  by  means  of  a 
vertical  crank  shaft  pivoted  to  the 
central  and  upper  part  of  the  table  and 
actuated  by  bevel-gearing ;  four  other 
cranks,  one  at  each  corner  of  the  frame, 
serve  to  guide  and  limit  its  motion, 
causing  its  central  point  to  describe  a 
circle  about  4  feet  in  diameter,  so  that 
different  portions  of  the  faces  of  the 
upper  and  lower  glass  plates  are  con- 
tinually applied  to  each  other.  Sharp 
river -sand  sifted  into  two  different  sizes 
is  used  as  an  abradant;  when  the  sur- 
face of  the  lower  plate  has  been  ground 
quite  flat  by  tbe  coarser  sand,  it  is 
removed  by  careful  washing,  and  the 
finer  sand  substituted  for  it:  to  this 
succeeds  emery  powder,  a  coarser  and 
then  a  finer  quality  being  applied,  the 
glass  being  thoroughly  washed  previ- 
ous to  each  change  of  material,  so  that 
none  of  the  coarser  particles  previously 
used  may  remain  to  cause  scratches  on 
its  surface.  The  plates  are  then  in- 
verted and  the  same  process  is  repeated 
on  the  other  side.  For  this  purpose 
the  frame  above  described  is  suspended 
by  chains,  which  admit  of  its  being 
raised  from  the  surface  of  the  lower 
table.  These  machines  do  not  permit 
the  use  of  very  fine  emery,  as  their 
weight  and  velocity  at  such  near  prox- 
imity as  they  would  necessarily  be 
would  tear  the  surface  of  the  glass";  the 
velocity  is  consequently  reduced  when 
the  liner  emery  is  employed,  and  a  dif- 
ferent machine  worked  by  hand-power 
is  used  for  the  final  smoothing,  prepar- 
atory to  the  process  of  polishing.  This 
is  effected  upon  stone  benches  about 
2  feet  high,  having  plane  upper  sur- 
faces which  are  covered  with  wet  can- 
vas. Upon  this  one  of  the  larger  plates 
is  laid,  the  wetted  surface  of  the  canvas 
serving  to  retain  it  in  its  place.  A 
smaller  plate  is  used  as  a  grinder  or 
runner ;  if  this  be  of  such  si/e  that  a 
28 


uniform  pressure  of  it  cannot  be  im- 
parted to  it  by  hand,  leaden  weights 
are  distributed  over  its  surface.  Emery 
powders  of  gradually  increasing  fine- 
ness are  applied  with  water,  and  the 
runner  is  traversed  back  and  forth  by 
hand  with  a  semicircular  stroke,  its 
path  being  slightly  changed  at  each 
stroke,  while  the  runner  itself  is  gradu- 
ally turned  around  as  on  an  axis  dur- 
ing the  progress  of  the  work.  These 
combined  movements  serve  to  evenly 
distribute  the  emery,  and  insure  an 
equal  amount  of  grinding,  both  to  the 
bed-plate  and  runner. 

About  six  sizes  of  carefully  washed 
emery  are  used  in  smoothing,  and 
between  each  change  the  plates  and 
everything  about  the  apparatus  are 
carefully  washed,  including  the  hands 
of  the  operators.  The  fine  emery  pow- 
der last  employed  imparts  a  very 
smooth  surface  to  the  plates,  which  are 
now  ready  for  polishing.  The  polish- 
ing machine  has  a  bed  mounted  upon 
rollers,  and  traversed  slowly  back  and 
forth  sideways  by  a  rack  and  pinion 
beneath.  Two  carriages  supported  on 
wheels  on  each  end,  which  run  on  rails 
at  each  end  of  the  table,  have  a  recip- 
rocation of  about  2  feet  by  means  of 
two  opposed  cranks,  so  that  one  ad- 
vances while  the  other  recedes.  They 
are  placed  about  4  feet  apart,  and  to 
their  under  surfaces  are  attached  rub- 
bers having  sockets  in  their  upper  parts 
into  which  bars  with  rounded  ends  on 
the  under  side  of  the  carriage  are  fitted, 
allowing  a  certain  freedom  of  motion 
independent  of  each  other ;  they  measure 
6X8  inches,  are  placed  at  distances  of 
1  foot  apart,  and  their  faces  are  covered 
with  thick  felt.  By  the  reciprocating 
motion  of  the  carriage  and  the  transverse 
movement  of  the  bed  they  are  caused 
to  act  on  every  part  of  the  surface  of 
the  glass,  a  sufficient  pressure  being 
imparted  to  each  by  weights. 

The  powder  generally  employed  in 
polishing  is  "  Venetian  pink,"  a  sub- 
stance containing  a  small  proportion  of 
oxide  of  iron  mingled  with  earthy 
matter.  It  is  used  with  water,  which 
reduces  the  friction  and  prevents  the 
glass  from  becoming  heated.  Tripoli, 
crocus,  and  putty  powders,  when  used 
with  water,  cut  too  actively  to  produce 
a  high  polish  in  this  way;  though 


434 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


they  are  employed  dry  for  the  last 
finish  in  hand-polishing,  the  amount 
of  surface  acted  on,  with  the  velocity 
and  power  of  the  machinery,  would 
render  these  liable  to  tear  the  surface 
of  the  glass,  besides  exposing  it  to  the 
contingency  of  being  broken  by  the 
heat  evolved. 

,  Ornamenting  Frosted  Glass,  A 
method  of  ornamenting  frosted  glass 
for  those  who  cannot  draw  is  to  choose 
some  pretty  pattern  of  lace  curtains, 
lay  it  smoothly  on  thin  paper,  and 
with  a  pencil  trace  the  outlines.  Then, 
after  making  as  many  layers  as  you  re- 
quire patterns,  cut  out  the  designs  at 
one  time  through  the  several  layers  of 
the  paper  with  a  pair  of  sharp-pointed 
scissors.  Fasten  the  patterns  with 
tacks  to  the  frame  around  each  pane  of 
glass  you  wish  to  decorate.  Tie  up  a 
piece  of  putty  in  a  piece  of  thin  muslin, 
leaving  enough  of  the  latter  to  hold 
instead  of  a  handle.  With  this  dabble 
all  over  that  part  of  the  glass  which 
the  pattern  leaves  bare.  When  the 
putty  on  the  glass  has  dried,  remove 
the  paper  and  varnish  the  glass. 

To  Transfer  Photographs  to  Glass. 
Separate  the  paper  print  from  the  back- 
ground by  steaming  it,  dry  thoroughly 
and,  having  given  the  warmed  glass 
an  even  coating  of  balsam  or  negative 
varnish,  place  the  face  of  the  print  on 
the  surface  thus  prepared.  Smooth  it 
out  and  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  until 
the  varnish  has  hardened.  Then  apply 
water,  and  with  a  soft  piece  of  gum 
rubber  rub  off  the  paper  so  as  to  leave 
the  photographic  image  on  the  var- 
nished glass. 

Platinizing  Glass.  In  order  to  suc- 
ceed in  coating  porcelain  or  glass  with 
a  perfectly  faultless  film  of  platinum 
of  the  brilliancy  of  silver  it  is  indis- 
pensable to  make  use  of  a  perfectly  dry 
chloride  of  platinum,  as  free  from  acid 
as  possible.  To  that  end  pour  some  oil 
of  rosemary  over  the  perfectly  dry 
chloride  of  platinum  in  a  small  porce- 
lain mortar  and  knead  it  up  with  the 
pestle,  renewing  the  oil  about  three 
times;  and  continue  this  operation 
until  there  is  produced  from  the 
brownish-red  chloride  a  black  plastic 
mass,  wherein  no  particles  of  undecom- 
posed  chloride  of  platinum  can  be 
found.  The  oil  of  rosemary  assumes 


hereby  a  more  or  less  yellow  color, 
in  consequence  of  partially  taking  up 
chlorine  from  the  chloride  of  platinum. 
When  the  whole  of  the  chloride  of 
platinum  is  thus  reduced,  and  after 
pouring  the  oil  of  rosemary  off,  rub  it 
up  well  with  the  pestle  with  about  five 
times  its  weight  of  oil  of  lavender 
until  it  has  become  a  perfectly  homoge- 
neous, thin  fluid.  Then  after  leaving 
it  to  stand  for  half  an  hour  or  so  ap- 
ply the  mass  as  uniformly  as  may  be 
and  in  the  thinnest  possible  layer  to 
the  object  of  porcelain,  earthenware,  or 
glass  by  means  of  a  soft,  delicate  brush. 
The  thinner  the  coat  of  the  application 
the  more  brilliant  the  film  of  platinum. 
All  that  is  required  further  is  to  subject 
the  articles  for  a  few  minutes  to  a  very 
low,  scarcely  perceptible  red  heat, 
either  in  a  muffle  or  in  the  flame  of 
a  Bunseu's  gas-blowpipe  used  with  cau- 
tion. The  articles  receive  from  this 
baking  a  beautiful  lustre  as  brilliant 
as  silver.  If,  by  an  oversight,  the  coat- 
ing of  platinum  upon  the  articles  has 
turned  out  faulty,  or  if  breakages 
occur  during  the  baking,  every  trace 
of  the  metal  can  be  recovered  from  the 
objects.  Nothing  more  is  required 
than  to  pour  common  hydrochloric 
acid  over  them  and  then  touch  them 
with  a  zinc  rod.  In  consequence  of 
the  hydrogen  evolved,  both  at  the 
upper  and  lower  surface  of  the  film  of 
platinum  which  acts  as  the  negative 
pole,  the  shining  metallic  coating  in- 
stantly peels  off  in  the  form  of  ex- 
tremely thin  leaves  from  the  base  of 
porcelain  or  gl#ss  and,  notwithstanding 
the  specific  gravity  of  the  metal,  these 
ascend  partially  and  float  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  acid.  On  separating  the 
hydrochloric  acid  by  the  use  of  a  filter 
the  whole  of  the  platinum  is  recovered. 
One  should  prepare  only  as  much  of 
the  platinizing  fluid  as  is  required  for 
immediate  use,  as  it  loses  in  efficiency 
by  keeping. 

Toughened  Glass.  In  this  process 
the  red-hot  glass  is  dipped  into  a  warm 
bath  consisting  of  water  and  starch,  or 
gum  kept  at  212°  F.  It  is  taken  out 
again  when  the  red  glow  has  almost 
gone,  and  is  then  allowed  to  cool  in  an 
oven  kept  at  a  slightly  lower  tempera- 
ture than  the  glass.  Any  article  of 
glass  can  be  treated  by  this  method, 


HORN-COMBS.— LUBRICANTS.  BLACKING,  ETC. 


435 


and  the  glass  can  be  cut  by  a  diamond 
or  ground,  etc.,  with  sand,  and  is  quite 
as  tough  as  glass  prepared  by  the  "oil 
process." 


HORN-COMBS,  MANUFACTURE  OF. 

The  first  operation  is  to  cut  the  horn 
in  such  a  manner  that  when  opened  it 
shall  be  of  rectangular  shape.  This 
cutting  involves  the  loss  of  several  large 
pieces  and  also  of  the  tips  so  far  as 
comb-making  is  concerned ;  but  the 
pieces  are  sold  to  manufacturers  of 
other  commodities,  so  that  the  total 
loss  is  comparatively  small.  To  assist 
the  action  of  the  knife  the  horn  is 
heated  to  a  certain  degree  over  a  fire, 
by  the  side  of  which  the  operative  sits. 
When  cut  the  horn  is  often  softened 
and  opened  by  tongs,  and  placed  be- 
tween screw-plates,  wherein,  under  the 
influence  of  a  strong  pressure,  the 
pieces  are  flattened  out.  It  is  a  charac- 
teristic of  horn  to  remain  when  cold 
just  as  it  is  shaped  when  warm  ;  so 
that,  when  the  pieces  are  removed 
from  the  screw-plates,  they  do  not 
warp  or  curl  up  again.  Such  pieces  as 
are  intended^  to  be  used  for  imitation 
tortoise-shell  are  subjected  to  an  enor- 
mous pressure  between  heated  and  oiled 
iron  plates.  This  heavy  pressure,  how- 
ever, weakens  the  horn  and  renders  it 
liable  to  split.  Omitting  the  drying 
process,  the  next  operation  is  to  cut  the 
pieces  into  suitable  sizes  and  shapes  for 
combs;  and,  after  that,  the  teeth  are 
cut.  Originally  this  was  done  by 
hand ;  now  it  is  done  by  circular  saws, 
some  of  whi<?h  are  so  fine  and  thin  as  to 
cut  from  70  to  80  teeth  per  lineal  inch. 
They  revolve  at  a  very  rapid  rate,  but, 
instead  of  travelling  up  to  the  horn,  the 
horn  travels  up  to  the  saw.  After  each 
cut  the  horn  is  automatically  moved 
forward  the  exact  breadth  of  a  tooth, 
and  it  is  possible  to  arrange  that  a  fine 
or  a  coarse  tooth  shall  be  cut  at  pleas- 
ure. 

There  is  a  second  method  of  cutting 
the  teeth  by  which  a  pair  of  combs  is 
made  from  a  single  plate  of  horn;  what 
is  cut  out  to  form  the  tooth  of  one  comb 
being  utilized  to  form  the  tooth  of  the 
second  comb,  which  lies  immediately 
opposite  to  the  first.  This  may  be  un- 


derstood by  dovetailing  two  combs  into 
each  other.  The  two  end  teeth,  being 
thicker  than  the  others,  show  a  gap 
when  the  two  combs  are  separated ;  but 
a  little  warming  and  a  slight  bending 
make  that  unsightliness  disappear. 
The  cutting  in  this  case  is  done  by  a 
pair  of  chisels,  which  travel  fast  or 
slow,  as  may  be  required,  according  to 
the  character  of  the  teeth  to  be  cut,  each 
chisel  descending  alternately. 

After  the  tooth-cutting,  the  combs 
are  next  thinned  or  tapered  down  to 
their  outer  edges.  This  is  done  on 
grindstones ;  and  in  due  succession  the 
teeth  are  rounded,  pointed,  or  bevelled, 
as  the  case  may  require,  by  a  special 
kind  of  file  or  rasp.  If  it  is  necessary 
to  treat  the  horn  to  make  it  an  imita- 
tion of  tortoise-shell,  the  object  is  ef- 
fected by  first  applying  dilute  nitric 
acid,  which  imparts  a  light  yellow 
tinge,  and  afterwards  by  dropping  over 
certain  spots  a  composition  containing 
caustic  soda,  litharge,  and  dragon's- 
blood.  After  some  time  the  composi- 
tion is  washed  off,  but  the  spots  beneath 
it  are  found  to  be  slightly  swollen  up, 
and  stained  a  deep  orange  tinge.  It 
then  only  remains  to  polish  the  combs, 
whether  they  are  in  plain  horn  or  in 
imitation  tortoise-shell.  This  is  done 
by  first  sandpapering  to  get  a  smooth 
surface,  then  buffing  on  leather  wheels, 
and  finally  polishing  on  wheels  made 
up  of  circular  pieces  of  calico  with 
frayed  edges,  which,  though  soft  in 
themselves,  do  the  work  of  polishing 
very  well  when  rapidly  revolved. 


LUBRICANTS,  BLACKING.  ETC. 

Belt  Grease.  To  prevent  belts  from 
slipping  from  the  pulley  the  following 
preparation  is  highly  recommended : 
Prepare  a  soap  by  boiling  9  parts  of 
linseed  oil  with  4  parts  of  bolted 
litharge,  with  an  addition  of  a  sjmall 
quantity  of  water,  until  a  sample  taken 
from  the  boiler  shows  the  consistency 
of  plaster.  This  is  ascertained  by  al- 
lowing a  few  drops  of  the  boiling  mass 
to  fall  into  cold  water,  and  testing  with 
the  thumb  and  forefinger  whether  the 
mass  is  still  smeary  or  can  be  twisted 
into  a  small  ball.  If  the  latter  is  the 
case,  it  is  taken  from  the  fire,  allowed 


436 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


to  cool  somewhat,  and  sufficient  of  a 
mixture  of  equal  parts  of  rape-seed  oil 
and  oil  of  turpentine  or  petroleum  is 
added  to  make  a  mass  of  the  thickness 
of  cream. 

Caoutchouc  Lubricant  for  Driving- 
belts.  One-half  pound  of  rubber  in  small 
pieces  and  J  pint  of  oil  of  turpentine 
are  brought  into  an  iron  boiler,  tightly 
covered  with  a  lid,  and  gently  digested 
over  a  coal  fire,  until  the  rubber  is 
melted.  Then  add  14  ounces  of  rosin, 
stir  thoroughly,  melt  again,  and  add  in 
the  same  manner  14  ounces  of  yellow 
wax.  Stir  the  mass  occasionally  while 
melting.  Next  heat  in  a  large  pot  3 
pounds  of  fish  oil  and  i  pound  of  tal- 
low until  the  tallow  is  melted,  and 
then  add  with  constant  stirring  the  first 
mixture,  while  still  hot.  Continue 
stirring  until  the  mass  solidifies.  For 
use,  the  lubricant  is  applied  with  a 
brush  to  both  sides  of  old,  cracked 
belts,  in  the  sun  or  a  warm  room,  and 
allowed  to  dry.  The  durability  of  new 
or  good  belts  is  much  increased  by  an 
occasional  application,  while  running, 
of  a  small  quantity  of  the  lubricant. 
Instead  of  caoutchouc,  old  rubber 
waste  can  also  be  employed,  but  it 
must  first  be  boiled  with  soda-lye  for  ± 
to  i  hour,  and  instead  of  i  pound 
about  |  pound  must  be  used. 

Harness  Grease.  Ammonia  soap  4 
parts,  palm  oil  1  part,  ordinary  hard 
soap  3  parts,  solution  of  tannin  (9  to  16 
parts  of  tannin  in  4  of  water)  1$  parts. 
Melt  the  oil  and  soap  together,  add  the 
ammonia  soap,  then  the  tannin  solu- 
tion, and  stir  thoroughly.  The  prepa- 
ration will  keep  for  some  time  if  kept 
in  stone  bottles  well  corked.  In  greas- 
ing, no  more  grease  should  be  used  than 
the  leather  will  absorb. 

The  ammonia  soap  used  in  the  prep- 
aration is  made  by  heating  oleic  acid 
to  the  boiling  point  and  adding  sesqui- 
carbonate  of  ammonium  until  the  odor 
of  ammonia  no  longer  disappears. 

Harness  Polish.  Four  ounces  of 
glue,  li  pints  of  vinegar,  2  ounces  of 
gum-Arabic,  i  pint  of  black  ink,  and  2 
drachms  of  isinglass.  Break  the  glue 
in  pieces,  put  it  in  a  basin,  and  pour 
over  it  about  1  pint  of  the  vinegar;  let 
it  stand  until  it  becomes  perfectly  soft. 
Put  the  gum-Arabic  in  another  vessel, 
with  the  iiik,  until  it  is  entirely  dis- 


solved ;  melt  the  isinglass  in  as  much 
water  as  will  cover  it,  which  may  be 
easily  done  by  placing  the  cup  contain- 
ing it  near  the  nre  about  an  hour  before 
it  is  wanted  for  use.  To  mix  them, 
pour  the  remaining  vinegar  with  the 
softened  glue  into  a  dish  over  a  mod- 
erate fire,  stirring  it  until  it  is  en- 
tirely dissolved,  being  careful  not  to  let 
it  reach  the  boiling  point,  that  it  may 
not  burn  the  bottom,  about  182°  F. 
being  the  best  heat.  Next  add  the 
gum;  let  it  arrive  at  about  the  same 
heat,  and  then  add  the  isinglass.  Take 
from  the  fire  and  pour  it  off  for  use. 

To  use  it  put  as  much  as  required  in 
a  saucer,  heat  sufficiently  to  make  it 
fluid,  and  apply  a  thin  coat  with  a  dry 
sponge.  If  the  article  is  dried  quickly, 
either  in  the  sun  or  by  the  fire,  it  will 
show  the  better  polish. 

Thurston's  Machine  for  Testing  Lu- 
bricating Oils.  Prof.  R.  H.  Thurston, 
whose  investigations  on  this  subject 
are  of  much  importance,  has  devised 
several  machines  for  the  determination 
of  the  value  of  lubricating  oils.  The 
form  shown  in  Fig.75  is  designed  for  test- 
ing oils  used  in  railway  service,  and  for 
all  other  purposes  where  it  is  important 
to  reduce  to  a  minimum  the  friction  of 
ressures. 
:etermine 

which  is  the  best  and  consequently  the 
cheapest  oil  for  lubricating  purposes, 
a  matter  of  great  importance  in  respect 
to  the  question  of  the  economical  use 
of  power.  The  principle  of  the  ma- 
chine will  appear  from  the  following 
description,  viz. :  It  comprises  a  spindle 
revolved  in  horizontal  bearings  by  a 
belt  from  the  main  shaft  of  the  work- 
shop. On  the  overhanging  end  of  this 
spindle  is  formed  a  journal,  from  which 
is  hung  a  heavily-weighted  rod.  The 
two  halves  of  the  bearings  in  this  rod 
by  which  it  hangs  on  the  journal  are 
pressed  down  upon  the  journal  with  any 
desired  pressure  by  means  of  a  spiral 
spring  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  rod. 
The  weight  of  this  pendulum  prevents 
it  revolving  along  with  the  spindle,  but 
the  friction  at  the  journal  deflects  the 
pendulum  from  the  vertical  through  an 
angle  whose  line  is  a  measure  of  the 
frictional  effort.  There  is  also  inserted 
in  the  bearings  a  thermometer,  by 
which  the  effect  of  the  friction  in 


bearing  surfaces  under  heavy  pt 
With  its  use  it  is  possible  to  de 


LUBRICANTS,  BLACKING,  ETC. 


437 


increasing    the    temperature     is     ob- 
served. 

With  this  machine  Prof.  Thurston 
has  obtained  extremely  interesting  re- 


in the  form  of  the  machine  here 
shown,  the  journal,  which  is  master 
car-builders'  standard,  3£  inches  diam- 
eter, is  a  hardened  steel  sleeve,  ground 


Fig.  75. 


salts  regarding  the  variation  of  the  co- 
efficient of  friction  with  temperature, 
pressure,  and  velocity  of  rubbing. 


truly  cylindrical.  The  boxes  in  wnich 
this  journal  runs  are  of  phosphor- 
bronze,  and  are  designed  for  internal 


438 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


water  circulation.  A  late  improvemen 
includes  a  thin  lining  of  phosphor- 
bronze  or  other  metal  ordinarily  used, 
which  can  be  accurately  weighed  before 
and  after  a  test,  determining  the  per- 
centage of  wear  for  any  given  mileage. 
By  being  made  interchangeable  these 
linings  can  be  renewed  at  any  time,  or 
special  linings  of  any  other  metal  or 
alloy  may  be  inserted,  using  the  same 
water  brasses. 

Pressures  up  to  9000  pounds  are  ob- 
tained by  the  use  of  a  heavy  helical 
spring  secured  within  a  4-inch  wrought- 
iron  pendulum  tube.  By  a  convenient 
taper-key  adjustment  (not  shown  in  the 
cut)  the  pressure  may  be  easily  and 
quickly  relieved  for  removal  of  the 
pendulum  and  brasses  from  the  journal, 
without  release  of  pressure  of  the  spring 
within  the  tube. 

The  standard  boxes  may  be  replaced 
by  the  ordinary  brasses  used  in  regular 
railway  service  if  desired,  thus  imitat- 
ing the  actual  conditions  of  practice. 
The  graduated  arc  on  which  the  fric- 
tion is  indicated  is  conveniently  placed 
above  the  pendulum.  The  standard 
thermometer  used  is  graduated  from 
40°  to  350°  F.  A  positive  automatic 
revolution-counter  which  reads  up  to 
one  million  is  attached,  enabling  the 
experimenter  to  determine  the  compar- 
ative mileage  run.  The  apparatus  may 
be  speeded  to  correspond  to  the  rates 
usual  for  trains  by  suitable  provision 
of  counter-shaft  and  cone  pulleys.  This 
machine,  including  the  counter-shaft, 
weighs  1125  pounds,  and  is  manufact- 
ured by  the  Pratt  &  Whitney  Company 
of  Hartford,  Conn.  (W.) 

Lubricants.  Admixtures  of  min- 
eral oil  with  animal  oil  lessen  the 
liability  of  the  latter  to  spontaneous 
combustion.  A  series  of  experiments, 
which  were  made  to  test  the  inflamma- 
bility of  such  mixtures,  by  saturating 
balls  of  cotton  waste  with  oil  and  meas- 
uring the  increase  in  temperature, 
showed  the  following  results:  With 
pure  lard  oil  the  temperature  increased 
to  428°  F.  in  4  hours  ;  with  pureneat's- 
foot  oil  to  446°  F.  in  6  hours,  and  in  i 
hour  more  the  cotton  was  converted 
into  glowing  coal.  With  a  mixture  of 
50  per  cent,  of  pure  mineral  oil  and  50 
per  cent,  of  neat's-foot  oil  the  temper- 
ature did  not  increase  to  over  214°  F. 


in  7  hours.  A  mixture  of  75  per  cent, 
of  neat's-foot  oil  and  25  per  cent,  of 
mineral  oil  became  heated  to  about 
425°  F.  in  6i  hours,  and  gave  off  an 
odor  of  burning.  With  67  per  cent,  of 
neat's-foot  oil  and  33  per  cent,  of  min- 
eral oil  the  highest  temperature  at- 
tained was  214°  F.  and  the  cotton 
showed  no  trace  of  charring.  Accord- 
ing to  these  experiments  it  would  seem 
that,  if  it  is  desired  to  give  mineral  oil 
greater  tenacity  and  consistency  for 
certain  purposes,  a  mixture  of  67  per 
cent,  of  neat's-foot  oil  and  33  per  cent, 
of  mineral  can  be  considered  as  en- 
tirely safe. 

Purification  of  Lubricants  after  Use. 
Dissolve  2i  parts  by  weight  ot  potas- 
sium chromate,  2  parts  of  calcined  soda, 
2i  parts  potassium  chloride,  and  5  parts 
of  common  salt  in  a  wooden  vat.  Bring 
into  this  1000  parts  of  the  oil  to  be 
purified  previously  heated  to  about 
167°  F.,  and  after  stirring  thoroughly 
for  10  to  15  minutes  let  it  stand  quietly 
8  to  10  days  in  a  warm  place.  At  the 
end  of  the  time  draw  the  clear  oil  off 
by  means  of  a  cock  on  the  vat. 

Used  lubricants  can  also  be  purified 
in  the  following  manner:  Heat  1000 
parts  by  weight  of  the  oil  to  be  purified 
to  about  167°  F.  and  add  with  con- 
stant stirring  a  mixture  of  10  parts  by 
weight  of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid 
and  the  same  quantity  of  96  per  cent, 
alcohol.  After  24  to  48  hours  rest  the 
oil  is  drawn  off  from  the  sediment  and, 
to  remove  all  traces  of  sulphuric  acid, 
washed  with  boiling  water. 

New  Receipts  for  Blacking.  No.  1. 
Melt  90  parts  by  weight  of  beeswax,  30 
of  spermaceti,  350  of  oil  of  turpentine, 
and  20  of  asphaltum  lacquer,  and  mix 
with  10  parts  by  weight  of  borax  20  of 
lampblack,  10  of  Berlin  blue,  and  5  of 
nitro-benzole. 

No.  2.  Dissolve  150  parts  of  wax  and 
15  of  tallow  in  a  boiling  mixture  of 
200  parts  of  linseed  oil,  20  of  litharge, 
and  100  of  molasses.  Heat  to  230°  to 
248°  F.  with  an  addition  of  100  parts 
of  lampblack.  When  cold  dilute  with 
280  parts  of  linseed  oil  and  mix  with  a 
solution  of  5  parts  of  gum-lac  and  2  of 
aniline  violet  in  25  of  alcohol. 

No.  3.  Mix  intimately  6  parts  of  fine 
jone-black,  28  of  syrup,  4  of  sugar,  3 
of  train  oil,  and  1  of  sulphuric  acid, 


METAL  INDUSTRY. 


439 


and  allow  the  mixture  to  stand  8  hours. 
Then  add  with  constant  stirring  4 
parts  of  decoction  of  tan,  18  of  bone- 
black,  and  3  of  sulphuric  acid,  and 
pour  into  boxes, 

No.  4.  Boil  1  part  of  extract  of  log- 
wood, 30  of  gall-nuts  coarsely  pow- 
dered with  25  of  their  combined  weight 
of  strong  vinegar.  Filter  the  fluid  and 
after  adding  8  parts  of  greer.  vitriol 
allow  it  to  settle  24  hours.  Then  draw 
off  the  clear  liquid  and  mix  it  with 
constant  stirring  with  8  parts  of  gum, 
100  of  sugar,  and  80  of  syrup.  Strain 
and  add  50  parts  of  spirit  of  wine,  40 
of  shellac  solution,  and  40  of  pulver- 
ized indigo. 


METAL  INDUSTRY. 

Hardening  Composition  for  Steel. 
To  the  ordinary  hardening  composition 
consisting  of  4f  quarts  of  fish  oil,  2 
pounds  of  beef  suet,  and  i  pound  of 
wax,  it  is  recommended  to  add  1  pound 
of  rosin.  Another  composition  consists 
of  95  quarts  of  spermaceti  oil,  20  pounds 
of  melted  tallow,  4^  quarts  of  neat's- 
foot  oil,  1  pound  of  pitch,  and  3  pounds 
of  rosin.  After  melting  the  last  two 
together  the  other  ingredients  are 
added  and  the  mass  is  heated  in  an  iron 
vessel  until  all  moisture  is  driven  out 
and  the  heated  mass  ignites  from  a 
burning  chip  of  wood  held  over  it;  the 
flame  is  at  once  extinguished  by  a  close- 
fitting  lid.  In  using  either  of  the 
methods  for  saw  blades  they  are  first 
heated  in  a  suitable  furnace  and  then 
placed  vertically,  teeth  upward,  in 
troughs  filled  with  the  mixture.  After 
sufficient  cooling  they  are  taken  out 
and  wiped  with  a  piece  of  leather  so 
that  only  a  slight  film  of  fat  remains. 
They  are  then  placed  flat  over  a  coal 
fire  until  the  coating  of  fat  ignites. 


point,"  consists  simply  of  a  grain  of 
iridium  soldered  on  the  point  of  the 
pen,  which  is  afterwards  sawed  in  two 
to  make  the  two  nibs  and  ground 
into  proper  shape. 

For  preparing  larger  pieces  of  irid- 
ium than  found  in  nature  for  making 
points  for  the  Mackinnon  stylographic 
pen,  Mr.  John  Holland,  of  Cincinnati, 
has  devised  the  following  ingenious 
process  :  The  ore  is  heated  in  a  Hessian 
crucible  to  a  white  heat,  and  after  add- 
ing phosphorus  the  heating  is  continued 
for  a  few  minutes.  In  this  manner  a 
perfect  fusion  of  the  metal  is  obtained 
which  can  be  poured  out  and  cast  into 
any  desired  shape.  The  material  is 
about  as  hard  as  the  natural  grains  of 
iridium,  and  in  fact  seems  to  have  all 
the  properties  of  the  metal  itself. 

For  making  points  for  the  Mackinnon 
pen,  the  fused  metal  is  poured  between 
two  iron  plates  which  are  kept  apart  a 
proper  distance  so  as  to  make  a  sheet 
of  iridium  of  the  desired  thickness. 
To  obtain  very  compact  castings,  the 
plates  are  brought  suddenly  together, 
on  the  plan  of  a  closed  ingot  with  a 
hinge,  so  that  as  the  metal  cools  it  is 
subjected  to  great  pressure.  The  sheets 
required  for  the  Mackinnon  pen  are 
about  aV  inch  in  thickness,  and  are  cut 
up  into  small  irregular  pieces,  which 
are  soldered  on  a  strip  of  bronze  and 
ground  down  to  a  flat  surface  upon  a 
copper  lap.  Corundum  or  diamond 
dust  mixed  with  oil  is  applied  to 
the  flat  surface  of  the  lap  by  means 
of  a  flat  steel  instrument,  upon  which 
pressure  is  applied  in  order  to  force  the 
corundum  or  diamond  dust  into  the 
copper,  thereby  making  a  cutting  sur- 
face. The  lap  makes  about  800  to  1000 
revolutions  per  minute.  After  the 
pieces  are  ground  to  a  surface  they  are 
first  countersunk  by  means  of  a  dia- 
mond drill  making  about  900 


which  may  burn  as  freely  as  required  •!  lutions    per    minute.     After    counter 


for  great  hardness.     Screws   or  other  •  sinking  the  iridium  is  finally  pierced 

,  by  means  of  a  copper  wire  held  by  a 


articles  which  are  to  receive  a  less  de- 
gree oi  hardness  are  dipped  into  the 
hot  mixture  and  brought  to  a  red  heat. 
Iridium,  its  Preparation  and  Use. 
With  the  exception  of  alloying  with 
platinum  the  principal  use  of  iridium 


suitable  drilling  apparatus,  which 
makes  about  3500  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. Some  corundum  or  diamond 
dust  and  oil  are  put  in  the  countersunk 
opening  in  the  iridium  and  then  it  is 


up  to  the  present  time  has  been  for  |  held  up  against  the  piece  of  revolving 

pointing  gold  pens.     The   iridosmine,    copper. 

called  by  the  manufacturers  "  diamond        The  holes  having  been  drilled,  the 


440 


TECIINO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


strips  of  bronze  to  which  the  pieces  of 
iridium  were  soldered  are  dissolved  by 
means  of  nitric  acid,  and  the  pieces  of 
iridium  are  then  soldered  in  proper 
position  to  the  end  of  a  MacKinnon 
pen.  The  iridium  is  then  ground  to  a 
proper  shape  upon  an  apparatus  con- 
sisting of  three  or  more  copper  cylinders 
on  a  common  spindie  making  about 
3500  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
operation  of  sawing  the  iridium  is 
carried  on  by  means  of  a  copper  disk 
from  4  to  8  inches  in  diameter,  made  of 
soft  thin  sheet-copper,  held  between 
two  clamps  and  placed  on  a  spindle  re- 
volving at  the  rate  of  about  2500 
revolutions  per  minute.  It  revolves  in 
a  box  which  contains  corundum  or  dia- 
mond dust  and  cotton-seed  oil. 

Phosphor-iridium,  as  this  nretal  may 
be  called,  possesses  some  very  remark- 
able properties.  It  is  as  hard,  if  not 
harder,  than  iridosmine  from  which  it  is 
prepared.  It  is  somewhat  lighter, 
owing  to  its  percentage  of  phosphorus 
and  increase  of  volume.  It  is  homo- 
geneous and  easy  to  polish,  and  forms 
some  alloys  impossible  to  prepare  in 
any  other  manner.  It  combines  with 
small  quantities  of  silver  and  forms  with 
it  the  most  flexible  and  resisting  alloy 
of  silver.  With  gold  or  tin  no  alloy 
has  thus  far  been  obtained.  Added  in 
small  quantities  to  copper  it  furnishes 
a  metal  possessing  very  small  resistance 
to  friction,  and  especially  adapted  for 
articles  subjected  to  great  pressure. 
This  alloy  seems  to  possess  more  than 
any  other  metal  the  power  of  retaining 
lubricants.  With  iron,  nickel,  cobalt, 
and  platinum,  phosphor-indium  forms 
combinations  in  all  proportions,  which 
are  of  great  importance.  With  iron  an 
alloy  is  obtained  which  retains  the 
properties  of  phosphor-iridium,  al- 
though its  hardness  decreases  with  a 
larger  addition  of  iron.  The  alloy  is 
slightly  magnetic,  and  is  not  attacked 
by  acids  and  alkalies,  and  the  best  file 
produces  no  effect  upon  it  even  if  it  con- 
tains as  much  as  50  per  cent,  of  iron. 
With  more  than  50  per  cent,  of  iron  the 
power  of  resistance  decreases  gradually 
and  the  nature  of  the  metal  approaches 
that  of  iron. 

In  casting  phosphor-iridium  it  is 
observed  that  the  mould  fills  up  better 
after  a  second  and  third  fusion. 


The  most  difficult  objects  are  obtained 
with  the  aid  of  open  or  closed  iron  01 
steel  moulds,  which  are  previously 
heated  to  prevent  too  rapid  cooling. 
By  fusing  the  phosphor-iridium  several 
times,  a  part  of  the  phosphorus  evapo- 
rates, and  the  melting  point  becomes 
higher.  If  heating  is  continued  too 
long,  the  metal  does  not  fuse,  and  phos- 
phorus must  be  added  in  order  to  give 
it  its  former  properties.  The  process 
of  removing  the  phosphorus  after  cast- 
ing is  as  follows:  The  metal  to  be  de-. 
phosphorized  is  placed  upon  a  perfo- 
rated fire-resistant  bed  upon  the  bot- 
tom of  the  crucible  and  surrounded 
with  powdered  lime,  and  then  heated 
for  some  time  to  a  red  heat.  The  phos- 
phorus combines  with  the  lime  and 
forms  a  green  slag  which  collects  upon 
the  bottom  of  the  crucible.  After  some 
time  the  crucible  is  taken  from  the  fire 
and  the  metal,  after  cooling,  is  once 
more  treated  in  the  same  manner  iu 
another  crucible.  The  temperature  is 
gradually  raised  until  the  metal  is  com- 
pletely dephosphorized. 

Cowles'  Electric  Furnace.  The 
Cowles  Brothers,  of  Cleveland,  Ohio, 
have  lately  invented  a  process  of  reduc- 
ing the  refracting  ores  of  many  metals 
by  electrical  means,  which  promises  to 
become  very  important  in  the  arts. 
They  construct  a  rectangular  box  of 
fire-resisting  material,  lined  with  a 
mixture  of  fine  charcoal  and  lirne. 
It  has  a  removable  cover,  which  is 
perforated  with  openings  to  allow  the 
escape  of  gases  evolved.  In  the  sides 
of  this  furnace  the  electrodes — 2  plates 
of  gas  carbon — are  let  in,  by  means 
of  which  the  current  of  a  powerful 
dynamo-electric  machine  is  introduced. 
The  charge  consists  of  a  mixture  of  the 
coarsely  crushed  ore  and  coke  fragments. 
The  es'sential  feature  of  the  process 
consists,  therefore,  in  employing  in 
the  furnace  a  substance  like  carbon 
whose  high  resistance  to  the  passage  of 
the  current  causes  the  production  of  a 
prodigiously  high  temperature,  and 
which  at  the  same  time  is  capable  of 
exercising  a  powerful  reducing  action 
on  the  ore.  With  such  an  arrangement 
of  apparatus,  and  by  the  use  of  a  power- 
ful electric  current,  the  inventors  have 
succeeded  in  reducing  aluminium  from 
corundum,  boron  from  boracic  acid, 


METAL  INDUSTRY. 


441 


and  silicium  from  quartz.  They  have 
greatly  cheapened  the  cost  of  alumin- 
ium-bronzes and  brasses,  and,  it  is 
expected,  will  be  able  to  produce  pure 
aluminium  in  quantity  at  much  lower 
prices  than  it  has  heretofore  been  possi- 
ble to  produce  it.  (W.) 

Refining  Nickel  (Fleitmann's  Pro- 
cess.} Dr.  Fleitmann,  of  Iserlohn,  has 
devised  a  very  simple  and  successful 
process  of  refining  and  toughening 
nickel,  which  is  now  very  largely  used. 
It  produces  a  very  homogeneous  metal 
from  which  castings  may  be  made  with 
much  less  liability  to  the  presence  of 
blow-holes  than  with  other  methods. 
Fleitrnann's  procedure  consists  in  add- 
ing to  the  molten  charge,  in  the  pot, 
when  ready  to  pour,  a  very  small  quan- 
tity of  magnesium.  The  magnesium  is 
added  in  small  quantities  at  a  time  and 
stirred  into  the  charge.  About  one 
ounce  of  magnesium  is  found  to  be  suf- 
ficient for  purify  ing  60  pounds  of  nickel. 
The  theory  of  the  operation  is  that  the 
magnesium  reduces  the  occluded  car- 
bonic oxide,  uniting  with  its  oxygen 
to  form  magnesia,  while  carbon  is 
separated  in  the  form  of  graphite. 
The  nickel  refined  by  this  method  is 
said  to  become  remarkably  tough  and 
malleable,  and  may  be  rolled  into 
sheets  and  drawn  into  wire.  Cast 
plates  (intended  for  anodes  in  nickel- 
plating),  after  reheating,  can  be  readily 
rolled  down  to  the  required  thick- 
ness, which  greatly  improves  them  for 
plating  purposes,  as  they  dissolve 
with  greater  uniformity  in  the  plating- 
bath.  Nickel  so  heated  may  be  rolled 
into  sheets  as  thin  as  paper,  and  has 
been  successfully  welded  upon  iron  and 
steel  plates.  (W.) 

Wrouyht-iron  (or  Mitis)  Castings. 
Ostberg,  a  Swedish  inventor,  has  lately 
devised  an  ingenious  process  of  making 
castings  (clean  and  sharp)  of  wrought- 
iron,  by  taking  advantage  of  the  ob- 
servation which  he  made  that  the  ad- 
dition of  an  extremely  small  quantity 
of  aluminium  to  vvrought-iron,  kept  at 
a  white  heat  in  a  crucible,  forms  a 
combination  which  has  a  much  lower 
point  of  fusion  than  wrought-iron. 

When  wrought-iron  is  heated  in  cru- 
cibles until  it  has  become  pasty,  the 
aluminium  in  the  form  of  an  alloy  of 
iron  and  aluminium  is  introduced. 


The  mass  almost  instantly  becomes 
thinly  fluid — the  fusion  point  of  the 
resulting  metal  being  lowered  about 
500°  F.  The  surplus  heat  which  it 
now  contains,  beyond  that  required  for 
fusion,  is  sufficient  to  keep  it  thoroughly 
fluid  during  the  operation  of  casting. 
The  addition  of  aluminium  required  to 
produce  this  remarkable  effect  does  not 
exceed  &  of  one  per  cent.  The  process 
bids  fair  to  become  valuable.  ( W.) 

Mechanically  Hardened  Steel.  A  bar 
of  steel  heated  to  a  cherry-red  is  placed 
in  a  space  enclosing  it  accurately  and 
subjected  to  an  enormous  pressure  by 
means  of  a  hydraulic  press.  It  is  then 
allowed  to  cool  under  pressure,  when 
it  will  be  found  that  the  steel  has  ac- 
quired a  high  degree  of  hardness  and  is 
very  much  inclined  to  become  strongly 
magnetic.  Magnets  prepared  accord- 
ing to  this  method  possess  an  extraor- 
dinary power  of  resistance,  and  are  al- 
ready used  for  telephones.  Steel  har- 
dened by  pressure  is  also  very  suitable 
for  edge  tools,  and  finally  the  degree 
of  hardness  can  be  modified  at  pleasure 
by  regulating  the  pressure. 

New  Solder  for  Metal,  Glass,  and  Por~ 
celain.  A  soft  alloy  which  adheres  to 
metal,  glass,  and  porcelain,  and  can  be 
used  in  the  same  manner  as  soft  solder, 
is  prepared  from  finely-powdered  cop- 
per— copper  dust — which  is  obtained  by 
shaking  a  solution  of  blue  vitriol  with 
granulated  tin.  The  solution  becomes 
considerably  heated,  and  a  fine*  brown 
powder  is  precipitated.  Of  this  copper 
dust,  20,  30,  or  36  parts  by  weight,  ac- 
cording to  the  desired  hardness  of  the 
solder,  are  mixed  in  a  cast-iron  or  por- 
celain mortar  with  sulphuric  acid  of 
1.85  specific  gravity  to  the  consistency 
of  paste,  and  70  parts  of  mercury  added 
with  constant  stirring. 

When  the  amalgam  is  thoroughly 
mixed,  it  is  carefully  washed  with 
water  to  remove  all  traces  of  acid,  and 
then  cooled  off.  In  10  to  12  hours  the 
mass  becomes  harder  than  tin.  When 
the  solder  is  to  be  used,  it  is  heated  to 
1300°  F.,  and  can  be  kneaded  like  wax 
in  an  iron  mortar.  In  this  plastic  con- 
dition it  is  applied  to  the  surfaces  to  be 
joined  and  the  latter  pressed  together. 
After  cooling,  the  solder  is  hard  and 
adheres  very  firmly. 

Oxidized  Silver.    Solution  of  penta- 


442 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


sulphide  of  potassium  (Hver-of-sulphur 
of  the  shops)  is  generally  used  for  ox- 
idizi  ng  silver.  Li ver-of-sulphur  is  pre- 
pared by  intimately  mixing  and  heat- 
ing together  2  parts  of  thoroughly 
dried  potash  and  1  part  of  sulphur 
powder.  Dissolve  2  to  3  drachms  of  the 
compound  in  If  pints  of  water,  and 
bring  the  liquid  to  a  temperature  of 
from  155  to  175°  F.,  when  it  is  ready 
for  use.  Silver  objects,  previously  freed 
from  dust  and  grease  with  soda-lye  and 
thorough  rinsing  in  water,  plunged  in 
this  bath  are  instantly  covered  with  an 
iridescent  film  of  silver  sulphide  which 
in  a  few  seconds  more  becomes  blue- 
black.  The  objects  are  then  removed, 
rinsed  off  in  plenty  of  fresh  water, 
scratch-brushed,  and,  if  necessary,  pol- 
ished. It  is  advisable  to  use  the  ox- 
idizing liquid  as  soon  as  prepared. 
After  it  has  been  used  for  some  time, 
the  deposit  becomes  dull  and  gray  and 
lacking  in  adherence.  There  is  danger 
in  using  the  alkaline  liquid  too  strong ; 
the  coating  will  form  quicker,  but  does 
not  adhere  as  well. 

The  process  is  very  readily  executed 
upon  pure  silver,  but  with  articles  of 
cupriferous  silver  the  result  is  not 
quite  so  beautiful,  and  it  is  therefore 
advisable  to  subject  them  to  blanching 
before  oxidizing. 

A  velvety-black  color  is  obtained  by 
dipping  the  article  previous  to  oxidiz- 
ing in  solution  of  mercurous  nitrate,  by 
which  it  becomes  coated  with  a  thin 
film  of  mercury,  which  forms  a  silver 
amalgam  with  the  silver.  When 
brought  into  the  li ver-of-sulphur  solu- 
tion a  mixture  of  mercury  sulphide 
and  silver  sulphide  is.forme'd  which  is 
much  darker  than  silver  sulphide  by 
itself.  By  dipping  the  oxidized  article 
in  a  liquid  composed  of  10  parts  of  blue 
vitriol,  5  of  sal-ammoniac,  and  100  of 
vinegar,  the  places  of  the  silver  left 
bright  acquire  a  warm,  brown  shade. 

Another  method  of  oxidation  is  ef- 
fected by  dipping  the  article  in  diluted 
chlorine  water,  in  chloride  of  lime  so- 
lution, or  in  eau  de  Javelle.  The  action 
of  these  baths  is  based  upon  the  forma- 
tion of  a  thin  layer  of  silver  chloride 
which  becomes  dark  on  exposure  to 
light. 

Beautiful  effects  and  tasty  colored 
designs  can  be  produced  by  combining 


various  shades  of  oxidation  with  the 
bright  or  gilded  silver  surface.  By  ex- 
ecuting the  design,  for  example,  witli 
asphalt  lacquer,  and  placing  the  arti- 

s  in  the  liver-of-sulphur  solution, 
only  the  places  left  free  become  oxid- 
ized, and  the  result,  after  removing  the 
asphalt  lacquer  with  oil  of  turpentine, 
will  be  a  white  design  upon  a  dark 
round.  Dark  designs  upon  a  white 
ground  are  executed  with  ink  prepared 
by  thickening  concentrated  liver-of- 
sulphur  solution  by  the  addition  of 
gum-Arabic  solution.  When  the  de- 
signs are  dry,  the  article  is  heated  so 
that  the  gum  cracks  off  or  can  be  re- 
moved by  a  gentle  tap.  Black  and 
light  designs  upon  a  dark  gray  ground 
are  carried  out  by  executing  the  first 
with  asphalt  solution  and  the  latter 
with  ink  composed  of  mercurous  nitrate 
and  gum-Arabic  solution,  and  dipping 
the  article  in  the  liver-of-sulphur  bath. 

A  deep  black  oxidized  surface  may 
be  obtained  directly  on  copper,  properly 
cleansed,  by  immersion  in  a  concen- 
trated solution  of  hydrous  carbonate  of 
copper,  either  cold  or  tepid.  The  cop- 
per surface  at  once  becomes  coated  with 
a  fine  black  deposit,  which  will  stand 
subsequent  treatment  very  well.  A 
fine  oxidized  surface  may  also  be  pro- 
duced by  depositing  on  the  surface  of 
the  articles,  or  on  certain  portions 
thereof,  a  film  of  metallic  platinum. 
For  this  purpose  prepare  a  solution  of 
platinic  chloride  in  sulphuric  ether  or 
alcohol,  and  apply  the  solution  with  a 
brush  to  the  parts  of  the  surface  to  be 
oxidized.  The  ether  or  spirit  speedily 
evaporates,  leaving  behind  a  film  of 
metallic  platinum  adhering  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  object,  which  film,  accord- 
ing to  its  thickness,  imparts  either  a 
steel-gray  or  nearly  black  lustre  to  the 
surface.  A  hot  aqueous  solution  of 
platinic  chloride  'will  give  the  same 
results. 

Phospliorizing  Bronze  or  Brass. 
Bronze  or  brass  wire  is  placed  for  some 
time  in  a  solution  of  £  to  5  per 
cent,  of  phosphorus  dissolved  in  ether, 
carbon  di-sulphide,  or  olive  oil,  5  to  10 
per  cent,  of  sulphuric  acid  and  85  to  95 
per  cent,  of  water.  The  metal  takes  up 
phosphorus.  The  wire  is  then  drawn 
a  size  finer  and  introduced  into  a 
closed  retort;  the  bottom  is  covered 


METAL  INDUSTRY. 


443 


with  a  thin  layer  of  phosphorus  so  that  i 
the  resulting  vapors  come  in  contact  j 
with  the  wire.     After  this  the  wire  is  [ 
packed  in  wood-charcoal,  and  ignited 
and  heated  until  it  softens  and  can  be 
drawn  a  size  still  smaller.    This  treat- 
ment is  alternately  repeated  until  the 
wire  has  been  reduced  to  the  desired 
fineness.     Wire  prepared  in  this  man- 
ner is  claimed  to  be  more  indestructi- 
ble, takes  a  higher  polish,  and  is  less 
subject  to  corrosion. 

Prevention  of  Riisting-in  of  Screivs. 
The  screws  in  machines  exposed  to 
heat  and  moist  air  soon  rust  in  even  if 
oil  is  used,  which  makes  the  taking 
apart  of  a  machine  a  difficult  task.  By 
dipping  the  screws  before  putting  them 
in  place  in  a  thin  paste  of  graphite  and 
oil  they  can  be  removed  without  diffi- 
culty even  after  several  years. 

To  Mark  Tools  with  a  Name.  Protect 
the  tool  with  a  thin  layer  of  wax  or 
hard  tallow,  by  coating  the  heated 
steel  with  wax  and  allowing  it  to  cool. 
When  the  wax  is  hard  the  name  is 
written  in  it  with  a  pointed  instrument, 
so  that  each  stroke  penetrates  to  the 
steel.  Then  pour  some  nitric  acid  over 
the  waxed  surface,  let  it  stand  for  a 
short  time,  and  after  washing  off  the 
acid  with  water  heat  the  metal  until 
the  wax  melts  and  wipe  it  dry.  The 
name  will  appear  engraved  in  the 
steel. 

Utilization  of  Nickel  Waste.  For  the 
utilization  of  waste  from  rolled  and 
cast-nickel  anodes  and  of  the  nickel 
sand  gradually  collecting  upon  the  bot- 
tom of  the  vats,  the  following  method 
is  recommended : 

Wash  the  waste  repeatedly  in  clean 
hot  water  and  then  boil  in  dilute  sul- 
phuric acid  (1  part  of  acid  to  4  of  water) 
until  water  poured  upon  the  waste  is 
no  longer  clouded  by  it.  Then  pour 
off  the  liquid  and  treat  'the  waste  or  sand 
with  concentrated  nitric  acid.  This 
must  be  done  very  carefully  and  a  large 
porcelain  vessel  should  be  used  to  pre- 
vent the  solution  from  boiling  over. 
When  the  solution  is  sufficiently  con- 
centrated, so  that  it  contains  little  free  j 
acid,  it  should  be  filtered,  and  slowly 
evaporated  to  dryness  over  the  water- 
bath.  The  product  is  nickel  nitrate. 

[The  nickel  nitrate  thus'  obtained  is 
dissolved  in  hot  distilled  water,  and  the 


solution  precipitated  with  caustic  soda 
carefully  and  gradually  added.  The 
precipitate  of  hydrated  nickel  oxide  is 
then  carefully  filtered  and  washed,  then 
treated  with  dilute  sulphuric  acid  with 
the  aid  of  heat  until  solution  has  taken 
place.  The  solution  is  concentrated  by 
evaporation  and  an  excess  of  concen- 
trated solution  of  ammonium  sulphate 
is  added.  The  precipitate  is  the  double 
sulphate  of  nickel  and  ammonium,  or 
Adams'  nickel-plating  salt,  which  is 


commonly  used  for  nickel-plating.] 


Zincing  Screw  Bolts.  To  free  the 
screw  bolts  from  dirt  and  grease,  place 
them  in  an  aqueous  solution  of  soda 
or  potash-lye,  and  for  the  purpose 
of  stirring  and  mixing  the  ingredients 
and  raising  the  temperature  of  the  bath 
introduce  steam. 

After  remaining  in  the  bath  a  suffi- 
cient length  of  time  the  bolts  are  rinsed 
in  cold  water.  They  are  then  placed 
in  a  second  bath  consisting  of  5  parts 
of  water  and  1  part  of  hydrochloric 
acid,  to  remove  rust,  which  would  pre- 
vent the  zinc  from  firmly  adhering  to 
the  iron.  In  this  bath  the  bolts  remain 
until  all  traces  of  rust  have  disappeared, 
and  they  show  a  uniform  gray  color. 
The  bolts  are  then  dried  and  placed  in 
a  bath  of  zinc  chloride  in  which  the 
free  acid  has  been  neutralized  by  am- 
monia. The  bolts  are  then  thoroughly 
dried  in  a  drying-room,  care  being  had 
to  avoid  all  contact  with  the  atmos- 
pheric air.  This  precaution  is  not  used 
in  many  shops,  but  experience  has 
shown  that  an  incomplete  drying  in  the 
air  exerts  an  injurious  influence  upon 
the  lower  layer  of  zinc,  so  that  it  ad- 
heres badly  and  defective  places  are 
formed  in  the  coating.  For  the  baths 
it  is  best  to  use  wooden  vessels,  as  they 
are  not  affected  by  the  acids. 

After  treating  the  bolts  in  the  above 
manner  and  drying  as  thoroughly  as 
possible,  they  are  placed  in  an  iron 
wire  basket  and  dipped  into  the  melted 
zinc  in  a  pot  of  cast  or  wrought- 
iron  heated  by  direct  firing.  One  of 
the  greatest  inconveniences  in  the  use 
of  such  baskets  is  that  the  iron  forms 
an  alloy  with  the  zinc,  and  the  bas- 
kets soon  wear  out,  and  besides  the  con- 
taminated zinc  must  be  replaced  by 
fresh  metal.  To  overcome  this  evil 


444 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


baskets  of  burnt  clay  have  been  re- 
cently introduced  and  used  with  suc- 
cess. 

It  is  best  to  use  large  crucibles,  as 
practical  experience  has  shown  that  the 
zincing  turns  out  better  with  large 
quantities  of  melted  zinc.  It  is  advan- 
tageous to  add  some  tin  to  the  zinc, 
which  increases  the  whiteness  of  the 
coating  in  the  crucible. 

By  quickly  cooling  the  bolts  in  cold 


The  bolts,  when  taken  from  the  bath, 
are  treated  in  a  revolving  drum  filled 
with  sawdust,  fine  sand,  or  iron  filings, 
to  remove  superficial  inequalities  and 


unevenness. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Continuously-working   furnace  for 
the  Manufacture  of  Animal  Charcoal. 


water  a  dull,  lustreless  white  color  is 
obtained.  To  protect  the  melted  metal 
from  constant  oxidation  some  ammo- 
nium chloride,  which  forms  a  good 
flux,  is  thrown  into  the  pot  after  re- 
moving the  oxide  layer  formed  in  the 
commencement;  rosin  is  also  used  for 
the  same  purpose.  The  time  of  immer- 
sion depends  on  the  thickness  of  the 
zinc  layer  desired,  and  on  the  quality 
of  the  iron. 


77. 


Figs.  70  and  77  represent  the  furnace.  It 
is  provided  with  an  equal  number  of  re- 
torts of  cast-iron  and  of  fire-clay  with 
interspaces  for  the  passage  of  the  heat- 
ing gases.  The  retorts  are  filled  with- 
out the  admission  of  outer  air  through 
slides  in  reservoirs  above  them.  The 
finished  charcoal  falls  from  the  retorts 
into  boxes  of  iron  or  tin,  and  from 
there,  when  cold,  into  wagons.  By  the 
circulation  of  the  heating  gases  through 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


445 


the  hollow  spaces  a  very  uniformly 
burnt  product  is  obtained.  The  gases 
pass  from  the  furnace,  which  is  about  8 
feet  wide,  10  feet  long,  and  7  J  feet  high, 
into  a  receiver  and  condenser,  and,  af- 
ter cooling,  into  a  column  with  milk 
of  lime.  The  ammonia  is  absorbed  by 
sulphuric  acid  in  lead  tanks.  Two  or 
three  men  are  required  for  attendance. 
The  furnace  has  a  capacity  of  7500  to 
11,000  pounds  of  raw  material  per  day, 
and  can  be  built  with  or  without  gas- 
firing  and  of  any  size  with  4,  6,  8,  and 
12  retorts  for  working  horn,  hoofs,  blood 
for  the  manufacture  of  albumen,  and 
any  other  animal  waste,  and  as  no  dis- 
agreeable odors  occur  can  be  used  in 
any  locality. 

Gil  ding  and  Silvering  Leather.  Thor- 
oughly tanned  leather  free  from  all 
fatty  substances  is  soaked  in  a  medium 
strong  bath  of  caustic  soda  for  a  time 
varying  according  to  its  thickness. 
When  taken  out  it  is  dried  and  satu- 
rated with  a  solution  of  icinglass  and 
alum.  After  drying  in  the  air  it  is 
coated  once  or  twice,  according  to  its 
quality,  with  a  mixture  of  2  pounds  of 
collodion  and  1  drachm  of  castor  oil, 
again  dried  and  then  treated  with  a 
weak  solution  of  caoutchouc  in  benzine, 
after  which  the  gilding  varnish,  pre- 
pared from  old  linseed-oil  varnish 
boiled  with  litharge  and  Venetian  tur- 
pentine, is  applied.  When  dry  so  far 
that  it  is  only  slightly  sticky  the  gold 
or  other  metal  leaf  is  "laid  on,  brushed 
over  with  a  brush,  and  finally,  to  pro- 
tect the  gilding,  coated  with  a  solution 
of  mastic  in  alcohol. 

Coating  Leaden  Water  Pipes  to  Pre- 
vent Contamination  of  the  Water  Sup- 
ply. To  avoid  the  contamination  of 
drinking  water  by  the  lead  of  the  service 
pipes  commonly  used  it  has  been  pro- 
posed to  coat  them  on  the  interior  with 
some  chemical  substance  which  will 
form  an  insoluble  compound  with  the 
metal  and  protect  it  from  the  solvent 
action  of  the  water.  Several  suggestions 
to  this  end  have  been  made.  One  is  to 
fill  the  pipes  with  water  slightly  acidu- 
lated with  sulphuric  acid,  which  will 
speedily  form  a  coating  of  sulphate  of 
lead  on  the  inside  surfaces — a  coating 
which,  being  almost  absolutely  insolu- 
ble in  water,  should  serve  as  a  very 
effectual  barrier  against  the  action  of 


the  water  on  the  underlying  metal. 
Another  suggestion  is  to  pass  through 
the  pipe  a  solution  of  an  alkaline  sul- 
phide (such  as  sodium  or  potassium 
sulphide),  by  which  a  film  of  insoluble 
lead  sulphide  will  be  formed,  which  will 
answer  the  same  purpose  of  protecting 
the  underlying  metal  from  the  action 
of  the  water.  Ordinarily  the  only  dan- 
ger to  be  feared  from  lead  contamina- 
tion is  when  the  pipes  are  new  and  the 
water  that  is  passed  through  them  con- 
tains impurities  of  an  organic  nature, 
or  when,  on  the  other  hand,  the  water 
is  very  pure.  In  the  great  majority  of 
cases  the  interior  of  the  pipes  speedily 
becomes  coated  with  a  thin,  adhesive 
film  of  lead  carbonate,  which  protects 
the  lead  very  effectually,  and  the  al- 
leged dangers  of  poisoning  by  the  use 
of  the  lead  water  pipes  have,  in  our 
opinion,  been  greatly  exaggerated. 

(W.) 

New  Floor  Covering.  Clean  the 
floor  thoroughly,  then  fill  the  holes 
and  cracks  with  paper  putty,  made  by 
soaking  newspapers  in  a  paste  made  of 
wheat  flour,  water,  and  ground  alum, 
as  follows :  To  1  pound  of  flour  add  3 
quarts  of  water  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
ground  alum,  and  mix  thoroughly. 
The  floor  is  then  coated  with  this  paste 
and  a  thickness  of  manilla  or  hardware 
paper  is  put  on.  If  two  layers  are  de- 
sired a  second  covering  of  manilla 
paper  is  put  on  in  the  same  manner, 
and  allowed  to  dry  thoroughly.  The 
manilla  paper  is  then  covered  with 
paste,  and  a  layer  of  wall  paper  of  any 
style  or  design  desired  is  put  on.  After 
allowing  this  to  thoroughly  dry  it  is 
covered  with  two  or  more  coats  of 
sizing,  made  by  dissolving  £  pound 
of  white  glue  in  2  quarts  of  hot  water. 
After  this  is  allowed  to  dry,  the  surface 
is  given  one  coat  of  hard  oil-finish  var- 
nish, which  comes  already  prepared. 
This  is  allowed  to  dry  thoroughly, 
when  the  floor  is  ready  for  use.  This 
covering  is  cheap  and  durable,  makes 
the  floor  air-tight,  and  can  be  washed 
or  scrubbed. 

Neiv  Process  of  Manufacturing  Gold 
Wall  Paper.  Dissolve  one  part  of  gutta- 
percha  and  2  parts  of  caoutchouc  in 
5  parts  of  benzole,  and  10  parts  of 
white  rosin  in  30  parts  of  benzine, 
and  mix  the  last  solution  with  the 


446 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


first.  With  the  lacquer  thus  obtained 
the  wall  paper  is  printed  in  the  usual 
manner,  the  gold  dust  strewn  upon  it 
and  the  surplus  shaken  off.  The  paper 
is  then  quickly  dried  upon  a  hot  steam  - 
cylinder  which  effects  an  intimate 
union  of  the  gold  dust  with  the  lacquer 
and  gives  tii3  paper  a  very  high  and 
durable  lustre.  Such  wall  paper  can 
be  washed. 

Phosphorescent  Mixtures.  The  fol- 
lowing are  approved  formulae  for 
phosphorescent  mixtures  which  will 
produce  light  of  various  colors,  so  that 
after  exposure  to  bright  light  all  the 
colors  of  the  rainbow  may  be  shown  in 
the  dark.  The  mixtures  must  be  sealed 
up  in  glass  tubes  and  kept  in  the  dark. 
If  exposed  for  a  few  seconds  to  direct 
sunshine  or  to  the  light  of  burning 
magnesium  and  then  taken  into  the 
dark,  they  will  be  luminous  for  a  con- 
siderable time,  sometimes  for  half  an 
hour. 

No.  1.  Pulverized  oyster-shells  12 
parts,  flowers  of  sulphur  4  parts,  oxide 
of  zinc  0.5  part. 

No.  2.  Pure  calcium  carbonate  12 
parts,  flowers  of  sulphur  4  parts,  realgar 
0.5  part. 

No.  3.  Strontium  nitrate  12  parts, 
flowers  of  sulphur  4  parts,  sulphide  of 
antimony  0.5  part. 

No.  4.  Barium  sulphate  stirred 
into  a  paste  with  white  of  an  egg 
and  ignited  in  an  open  coal  fire  for 
1  hour. 

No.  5.  Strontium  carbonate  12  parts, 
sulphur  4  parts,  oxide  of  zinc  1  part. 

No.  Q.  Strontium  carbonate  12  parts, 
sulphur  4  parts,  sulphide  of  antimony 
0.5  part. 

No.  7.  Strontium  carbonate  12  parts, 
sulphur  4  parts,  sulphide  of  barium 
2.2  parts. 

A"o.  8.  Pure  calcium  carbonate  12 
parts,  sulphur  12  parts. 

All  these  mixtures,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  No.  4,  require  to  be  ignited 
or  exposed  to  a  red  heat  for  \  hour. 
A  little  practice  will  show  the  temper- 
ature and  time  best  adapted  for  their 
preparation. 

Preparation  of  Precipitated  Chalk  for 
Tooth-powders.  Dissolve  1  part  of  cal- 
cium chloride  in  15  parts  of  distilled 
water,  filter,  and  add  to  the  filtrate  a 
previously  filtered  solution  of  crystal- 


lized soda  in  distilled  water  until  a 
precipitate  is  no  longer  formed. 

This  fine  white  precipitate  thus  formed 
is  prepared  chalk.  After  it  has  settled 
on  the  bottom,  pour  off  the  supernatant 
fluid,  moisten  the  precipitate  with  a 
little  distilled  water  and  bring  it  into  a 
funnel  provided  with  filtering  paper. 
Wash  the  precipitate  6  to  8  times  and 
finally  dry  it  at  a  moderate  heat. 

Precipitated  chalk  thus  prepared  is 
absolutely  free  from  particles  of  sand, 
which  cannot  be  said  of  tooth-powders, 
prepared  as  they  mostly  are  with 
natural  chalk. 

Process  of  Joining  Two  Pieces  of 
Horn.  Heat  the  pieces  of  horn  before 
a  fire  and  carefully  scrape  the  edges 
where  they  are  to  be  joined  until  they 
fit  together  exactly.  Then  take  a  pair 
of  pincers,  previously  heated  quite  hot, 
and,  after  moistening  the  edges  to  be 
joined,  press  them  together  firmly  and 
quickly.  If  the  operation  is  skilfully 
performed  a  perfect  joint  will  result; 
and  after  the  edges  have  been  made 
smooth  with  a  fine  file  and  polished 
with  tripoli  and  water,  it  will  be  diffi- 
cult to  tell  where  the  two  pieces  are 
joined  together. 

To  Make  Horn  Combs  Elastic.  Place 
the  horn  from  which  the  combs  are  to 
be  made  for  12  hours  in  a  mixture  of  3 
parts  of  nitric  acid,  15  parts  of  white 
wine,  2  parts  of  vinegar,  and  2  parts  of 
soft  water.  Then  dry  it  and  place  it 
in  a  bath  of  100  parts  of  warm  water 
and  50  parts  of  nitric  acid.  The  horn 
is  then  dyed  and  placed  for  10  hours  in 
a  bath  of  vinegar  and  water. 

Combs  made  from  horn  thus  pre- 
pared are  so  soft  that  they  can  be  trodden 
upon  without  breaking. 

Roach  and  Moth  Exterminator.  Dis- 
solve 2  parts  of  thymol  and  2  parts  of 
salicylic  acid  in  200  parts  of  alcohol, 
and  perfume  the  mixture  with  1  part 
of  lemon  oil. 

This  preparation  makes  no  stain  and 
kills  the  vermin  immediately.  The 
odor  is  not  unpleasant  and  is  quickly 
removed  by  airing  the  room. 

Shaving  Cream.  To  make  shaving 
cream  that  can  be  used  without  water 
melt  20  pounds  of  lard  in  a  steam-bath 
at  a  temperature  of  212°  F.,  then  let  5 
pounds  of  caustic  potash-lye  of  36°  B. 
run  in  very  slowly  during  constant 


OILS  AND  FATS. 


447 


stirring  with  a  wooden  paddle;  when 
the  paste  becomes  thick,  5  pounds  more 
of  lye  are  added  in  the  same  manner. 
After  several  hours  stirring,  the  mixt- 
ure becomes  firm  and  is  finished.  It 
is  then  transferred  to  a  mortar  and 
triturated  until  the  soap  becomes  per- 
fectly smooth  throughout  and  assumes 
a  pearly  appearance.  Attar  of  almonds 
is  the  perfume  for  almond  cream  and 
attar  of  rose  for  rose  cream.  They  are 
dissolved  in  a  little  alcohol  and  added 
during  trituration. 

To  Preserve  India  Rubber  Goods 
from  Becoming  Hard  and  Cracking. 
Dip  the  goods,  according  to  their  size, 
for  a  few  seconds  to  some  minutes  in  a 
bath  of  melted  paraffine  of  about  212° 
F.,  and  dry  them  in  a  room  heated  to 
212°  F. 

To  Render  Rubber  Hose  Odorless. 
To  obviate  the  disagreeable  smell  of 
rubber  hose  used  for  gas  conductors, 
etc.,  it  is  recommended  to  rub  the  hose 
with  a  rag  dipped  in  a  solution  of 
equal  parts  of  linseed  oil  and  alcohol 
of  36  per  cent.,  thoroughly  shaken  to- 
gether. Stretch  the  hose  moderately 
and  continue  the  rubbing  until  the 
mixture  is  nearly  dry,  and  repeat  the 
operation  three  or  four  times  in  inter- 
vals of  a  few  days.  By  this  treatment 
the  hose  is  made  gas-tight  and  odorless 
without  losing  color  and  elasticity. 

Washing  White  Straw  Hats.  Ke- 
move  the  hat  band  and  wash  the  hat 
with  a  5  per  cent,  solution  of  citric  acid 
by  means  of  a  small  sponge.  Then 
rinse  with  clean  water  and  hang  the  hat 
in  the  sun  to  dry. 

Window  Panes  which  Indicate  the 
Moisture  of  the  Atmosphere.  A  neat 
utilization  of  the  property  of  cobalt  and 
nickel  salts  of  indicating  every  change 
of  moisture  by  a  change  of  color  is  as 
follows  :  By  coating  window  panes  or 
wall  paper  with  solutions  of — I. :  cobalt- 
ous  chloride  1  part,  gelatine  10  parts, 
and  water  100  ;  II. :  cuprous  chloride  1 
part,  gelatine  10  parts,  and  water  100 
parts;  III.:  cobaltous  chloride  1  part, 
gelatine  20  parts,  water  200  parts, 
nickel  protoxide  0.75  part,  and  cuprous 
chloride  0.25,  the  painted  surfaces  re- 
main colorless  in  cloudy  weather,  and 
in  clear  weather  No.  I.  turns  blue,  No. 
II.  yellow,  and  No.  III.  green.  Other 
attractive  devices  are  likewise  made. 


OILS  AND  FATS. 


Bleaching  of  Bone-fat.      Melt    the 

t  at  from  158°  to  167°  F.,  then  stir 
into  it  1  per  cent,  of  soda-lye  of  30°  Bv 
to  which  has  been  added  £  per  cent,  of 
common  salt,  and  let  the  mass  stand 
for  12  hours.  The  clear  fat  is  then 
brought  into  a  barrel  of  soft  wood  and 
allowed  to  cool  to  104°  F.  Now  dis- 
solve 1  per  cent,  of  the  fat  of  potassium 
bichromate  in  sufficient  hot  water  that 
the  hot  solution  shows  22°  B.,  add  3 
per  cent,  of  fuming  hydrochloric  acid 
of  22°  and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  fat. 
The  fat  is  then  washed  with  hot  water, 
covered,  and  allowed  to  settle. 

Bleaching  of  Paraffine  and  Similar 
Substances  for  the  Manufacture  of 
Candles.  Filter  the  crude  paraffine 
and  boil  it  2  hours  with  5  per  cent,  of 
its  weight  of  sodium  sulphide  and  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  water.  When 
cold,  the  paraffine,  which  floats  on  the 
top,  is  washed  in  water,  pressed,  and 
dissolved  in  20  per  cent,  of  amyl  alco- 
hol, from  which  it  separates  as  a  pasty 
mass.  It  is  then  allowed  to  rest  for 
some  time,  filtered  through  charcoal, 
and  subjected  to  powerful  pressure. 

Bleaching  of  Oils  and  Fats.  The 
following  method,  which  is  adapted  for 
solid  and  fluid  fats,  can  be  used  for 
bleaching  and  clarifying  oils  and  fats 
for  domestic  and  industrial  purposes. 
Cotton-seed  oil,  rape-seed  oil,  and  all 
other  fat  oils  are  prepared  for  treatment 
by  mixing  in  a  large  tank  with  2  to  3 
per  cent,  of  common  salt  and  thor- 
oughly stirring  for  5  to  10  minutes  with 
25  to  50  per  cent,  of  water.  After  a 
rest  of  24  to  48  hours  it  will  be  found 
that  a  portion  of  the  impurities  and  the 
water  and  salt  have  settled  on  the  bot- 
tom. The  supernatant  oil  is  then 
drawn  off  into  another  tank  and  again 
thoroughly  washed  with  cold  water, 
and  again  drawn  off  after  a  rest  of  6  to 
12  hours. 

This  treatment  with  common  salt  is 
especially  valuable  for  the  preparation 
of  fine  table-oils,  but  can  also  be  used 
for  other  oils,  such  as  linseed  oil,  train 
oil,  etc.  By  conducting  at  the  same 
time  during  the  mechanical  treatment 
an  electrical  current  through  the  mixt- 
ure the  oil  is  bleached  by  the  decom- 
position of  the  common  salt  by  the 


448 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


action  of  the  electric  current,  and  the 
formation  of  secondary  combinations 
of  strong  bleaching  power. 

For  many  oils  and  fats  which  readily 
become  rancid  or  spoil,  it  is  recom- 
mended to  add  2  to  3  per  cent,  of  bi- 
carbonate of  sodium  to  the  above  proc- 
ess. Besides  the  second  washing  with 
cold  water,  the  oil  can  also  be  treated 
with  steam  conducted  through  it  in  a 
finely  divided  state,  5  to  10  minutes 
being  sufficient  for  cotton-seed  oil,  while 
15  to  20  minutes  are  required  for  rape- 
reed  oil  and  30  minutes  for  fish  oil.  By 
this  treatment  the  rancid  constituents 
are  removed  and  the  slimy  particles 
precipitated. 

Instead  of  steam,  repeatedly  heated 
air  mixed  with  20  to  30  per  cent,  of  hot 
water  may  also  be  forced  through  the 
oil  by  means  of  a  blowing  engine.  By 
filtering  the  oil  thus  prepared  and  stor- 
ing it  for  some  time,  a  pure  product  of 
an  agreeable  taste  and  clear  pale  yel- 
low color  is  obtained.  For  filtering,* the 
ribbed  sides  and  bottom  of  the  filtering 
vessel  are  covered  with  endless  filtering 
paper. 

For  the  preparatory  treatment  of 
varnish  oil,  burning  and  lubricating 
oils,  etc.,  the  oil  is  compounded  with  a 
solution  of  2  per  cent,  of  common  salt 
in  15  to  20  per  cent,  of  water  of  176°  to 
212°  F.,  which,  during  the  stirring,  is 
still  further  heated  by  the  introduction 
of  steam.  One  to  1£  per  cent,  of  hydro- 
chloric acid  diluted  with  15  to  20  per 
cent,  of  water  is  then  added  with  con- 
stant stirring,  and  finally  steam  is  in- 
troduced in  intervals  of  5  minutes. 
The  oil  is  then  allowed  to  collect  in 
settling  tanks. 

In  many  cases  an  addition  of  potas- 
sium permanganate,  or  potassium  chlo- 
rate, or  potassium  bichromate  previous- 
ly dissolved  in  as  little  warm  water  as 
possible  is  useful.  For  100  parts  of  oil 
about  T\>-  part  of  the  last-named  salts  and 
1£  to  2  parts  of  common  salt  are  used. 
The  heated  oil  to  be  bleached  is  suc- 
cessively mixed  with  the  salt  solutions, 
2  to  3  per  cent,  of  hydrochloric  acid  or 
1  to  li  per  cent,  of  sulphuric  acid  be- 
ing added  by  means  of  a  rose  with  con- 
stant stirring  for  one  hour.  Then  add 
30  per  cent,  of  warm  water  to  the  mixt- 
ure and  allow  it  to  rest. 

After  the  oil  is  drawn  off  it  is  several 


times  washed  with  water  with  an  addi- 
tion of  some  soda  and  finally  treated 
with  steam.  The  slimy  sediment  can 
be  used  for  the  manufacture  of  soap. 
This  method  is  applicable  to  mineral, 
vegetable,  and  animal  oils. 

Bleaching  Tallow,  About  50  pounds 
of  caustic  soda-lye  are  placed  in  a  clean 
boiler  and  the  steam  is  turned  on. 
Salt  is  then  added  to  the  lye  until  it 
shows  25  to  28°  B. ;  300  pounds  of  fat 
are  now  placed  in  the  boiler  and  the 
steam  is  turned  on  until  the  mass  is 
brought  to  a  boil,  when  the  steam  is 
shut  off  to  prevent  overflowing.  It  is 
then  allowed  to  boil  up  1  to  2  inches  at 
the  most,  and  then  left  to  itself  ior  3  to 
5  hours  so  that  the  fat  will  clarify.  At 
the  end  of  this  time  the  upper  saponi- 
fied layer  is  ladled  off,  the  pure  tallow 
is  removed  and  passed  through  a  hair 
sieve  or  linen  into  a  clean  vessel,  until 
the  lower  saponified  layer  is  reached. 
The  residue  in  the  boiler,  consisting  of 
saponified  fat  and  lye,  is  removed  and 
used  in  the  preparation  of  curd  soap, 
together  with  'i'he  upper  layer. 

The  boiler  is  then  thoroughly  cleansed 
and  about  30  to  35  pounds  of  water  with 
I  to  1  pound  of  alum  are  heated  to  boil- 
ing. To  this  solution  the  fat  is  added, 
and  the  mass  is  allowed  to  boil  for  about 
15  minutes,  until  all  the  filth  has  dis- 
appeared from  the  fat.  The  mass  is 
then  transferred  to  another  vessel  and 
left  to  itself  from  3  to  5  hours.  The 
pure  fat  is  then  again  placed  in  the 
boiler  and  heated  until  it  shows  a  tem- 
perature of  338°  to  392°  F.  In  this 
last  operation  the  fat  becomes  snow- 
white.  The  steam  must  be  turned  off 
as  soon  as  the  slightest  trace  of  vapor 
of  a  disagreeable  odor  is  thrown  off. 
The  fat  may  then  be  directly  used  or 
left  to  cool.  As  stated,  the  steam  must 
be  turned  off  or  the  fire  removed  as  soon 
as  a  trace  of  disagreeable  vapors  be- 
comes manifest,  whether  the  tempera- 
ture be  306°  or  338°  F.,  for  if  this  is 
not  done  the  fat  will  again  turn  dark. 

Freshly  rendered,  sweet  fat  (not  acid 
or  rancid)  is  most  readily  bleached  and 
may  be  heated  quite  high.  Still  the 
fat  should  not  be  too  fresh,  or  one  will 
take  the  risk  of  saponifying  the  300 
pounds  without  leaving  any  to  bleach. 
Tallow  treated  in  this  way,  when  used 
for  toilet  soaps,  gives  them  a  white 


OILS  AND  FATS. 


449 


color  and  agreeable  odor.  It  is  also 
well  adapted  for  candle-making,  as  it 
becomes  exceedingly  hard. 

Clarifi/iny  Olive  Oil.  The  most  com- 
mon method  is  to  have  a  series  of  boxes, 
one  above  the  other,  each  with  cotton 
battingin  the  bottom ;  the  oil  passingthe 
sixth  box  will  be  beautifully  clear  and 
ready  for  market.  Some  use  cylindrical 
tin  vessels  holding  about  3  gallons  each, 
one  fitting  into  the  other  in  tiers  of 
three,  with  fine  wire  sieves  in  the  bot- 
tom of  each.  On  these  sieves  lie  two  or 
three  layers  of  cotton  batting.  The  oil 
is  passed  from  one  tier  to  the  other  until 
clear.  Clarifying  can  be  done  by  the 
sunlight  also:  it  can  be  bleached  and 
made  much  lighter  in  color,  but  not 
without  injuring  it.  When  it  is  adul- 
terated artificial  heat  is  necessary  in  the 
process.  When  once  heated  it  loses 
a  part  of  the  nutty  flavor,  and  is  liable 
to  become  rancid  when  exposed  to  the 
air.  It  should  be  kept  in  an  ordinarily 
cool  place  and  not  exposed  to  sunlight 
or  heat;  neither  should  it  be  handled 
any  more  than  absolutely  necessary  in 
the  filtering  and  bottling  and  should 
not  be  shaken  after  it  is  bottled.  The 
mucilage  contained  in  the  oil  will  not 
separate  for  a  long  time  after  the  oil  is 
ready  for  use,  and,  as  it  does  not  injure 
it,  it  is  not  therefore  objectionable. 
It  will  sometimes  form  in  the  bottle 
like  globules  of  water,  in  films  settling 
to  the  bottom  as  sediment,  and  when 
shaken  will  give  it  a  muddy  appear- 
ance, which  frequentl  v  renders  it  unsal- 
able, as  consumers  have  a  prejudice 
against  all  table  oils  that  are  not  per- 
fectly clear.  The  oil  is  better  when 
new  and  fresh,  and  what  is  gained  by 
its  appearance  from  remaining  a  longer 
time  in  the  tank  is  more  than  lost  in 
freshness  and  delicacy  of  flavor. 

Detection  of  Water  in  Essential  Oils. 
Essential  oil  distilled  from  the  respec- 
tive parts  of  the  plants  with  water  con- 
tain water,  even  if  apparently  perfectly 
clear.  By  adding  to  such  oils  3  to  5 
times  their  volume  of  petroleum  ether 
of  0.67  to  0.675  specific  gravity,  an  im- 
mediate cloudiness  will  make  its  ap- 
pearance in  consequence  of  the  separa- 
tion of  the  drops  of  water.  The  more 
water  the  oil  contains  the  greater  the 
cloudiness.  This  simple  test  is  infal- 
lible. 

29 


Mrrniifitcture  of  Cotton-seed  Oil.  The 
cotton  seed  having  been  screened  from 
all  dust  and  foreign  substances,  is  freed 
from  adhering  cotton  by  passing  it 
through  a  machine  similar  to  a  gin, 
only  with  teeth  placed  closer  together. 
The  seed  is  then  delivered  into  the 
huller,  which  consists  of  a  cylinder 
armed  with  steel  blades  and  surrounded 
about  two-thirds  way  by  a  concave  box 
also  armed  with  corresponding  knives. 
The  cylinder  revolves  at  great  speed, 
and  as  the  seed  is  forced  between  the 
knives  the  pericarp  or  hull  is  broken 
and  forced  from  the  kernel.  The  mass 
of  crushed  seed  then  falls  into  a  large 
revolving  sieve.  The  kernels,  many  of 
which  are  broken  into  fine  pieces,  pass 
through  the  meshes  of  the  wire  sieve, 
and  the  pericarp  to  which  the  lint  ad- 
heres is  carried  away  and  either  burned 
under  the  boiler  or  used  as  cattle-feed. 
The  clean  seed  is  now  carried  by  a  sys- 
tem of  elevatois  into  the  attic  story  and 
then  passes  down  into  the  crushers  or 
rollers.  These  consist  chiefly  of  two 
rollers  revolving  towards  each  other 
with  unequal  velocity,  so  geared  as  to 
produce  both  a  crushing  and  a  tearing 
effect  upon  the  seed.  The  meal,  as  the 
seed  is  now  called,  falls  to  the  bin  on 
the  first  floor  and  is  shovelled  into  the 
heater,  which  is  a  short  double  cylinder 
so  arranged  as  to  heat  the  meal  in  the 
inner  cylinder  by  steam,  which  circu- 
lates in  the  space  between  the  inner  and 
the  outer  walls.  Here  the  meal  is 
heated  until  the  water  it  contains  is 
converted  into  steam  and  escapes.  The 
hot  meal  is  then  placed  in  wedge- 
shaped  bags  of  woollen  duck,  each  hold- 
ing sufficient  seed  for  a  cake.  The 
bags  are  then  placed  between  the  sides 
of  wrappers  formed  of  thickly  woven 
horsehair  backed  with  corrugated 
leather  to  facilitate  the  escape  of  the 
oil,  which  are  called  "hairs"  or 
"books."  The  hair  and  its  contained 
bag  of  seed  are  then  placed  in  the  hy- 
draulic press.  The  press  usually  has 
spaces  for  four  cakes,  one  above  an- 
other. The  ram  is  12  inches  in  diame- 
ter and  is  worked  at  a  pressure  of  1£ 
tons  to  the  square  inch.  The  pressure 
is  given  by  pumps,  two  with  1  inch 
rams  and  two  with  2*  inch  rams  being 
in  one  set;  the  larger  diameter  of 
pumps  gives  the  pressure  quickly  until 


450 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  EECEIPT  BOOK. 


it  reaches  about  3  cwt.  per  square  inch, 
when  the  small  pumps  give  the  final 
squeeze.    Fifteen  minutes'  pressure  suf-  j 
fices  to  completely  extract  the  oil,  which  I 
collects  in  a  reservoir.    The  hairs  are  | 
then  thrown  out,  the  cluck   bags  are 
stripped  from  the  meal,  now  pressed 
into  solid  cakes,  the  cakes  are  set  up  in 
racks  to  dry,  and  the  operation  is  com- 
pleted. 

Two  merchantable  articles  are  pro- 
duced at  the  press:  crude  cotton-seed 
oil  and  cotton-seed  cake.  After  the 
oil  has  cooled  down  to  atmospheric 
temperature,  and  the  floating  impuri- 
ties have  separated  from  it,  it  is  of  a 
deep  red  color,  and  weighs  about  7i 
pounds  to  the  gallon.  It  is  estimated 
that  out  of  a  bushel  of  seed  weighing 
30  pounds,  three  quarts  of  oil  will  be 
produced,  leaving  about  10  pounds  of 
oil  cake,  which  is  very  valuable  for 
feeding  cattle,  horses,  and  hogs. 

It  has  been  proven  in  England  by 
fair  tests  that  the  manure  of  cattle  fed 
with  cotton-seed  meal  is  better  than  any 
other  animal  manure  other  than  guano 
from  birds.  The  meal  as  food  for  meri- 
no sheep  produces  an  exceedingly  valu- 
able result.  The  usual  effect  of  feeding 
cotton-seed  meal  to  female  cattle  when 
they  are  with  young  is  a  tendency 
to  produce  miscarriage.  Strangely 
enough,  the  effect  upon  merino  ewes  is 
to  make  them  bear  twins.  A  sheep 
farmer  in  Arkansas,  by  careful  feeding 
of  cotton-seed  meal  to  his  flock,  caused 
three-fourths  of  his  ewes  to  bear  twins. 
Another  valuable  result  to  be  got  from 
feeding  on  cotton-seed  meal  is  the  oil 
from  the  wool,  which  is  more  abundant 
than  from  other  food,  and  by  the  use 
of  naphtha  in  its  preparation  can  be 
made  into  the  best  tanning  oil  in  use. 

Fat  from  Sheep's  Wool.  Under  the 
name  of  lanolin  Prof.  Liebreich  has 
introduced  a  fat  obtained  from  sheep's 
wool,  which  is  believed  to  possess 
valuable  properties  for  the  preparation 
of  ointments.  Various  medicaments 
combined  with  lanolin  are  said  to  be 
more  promptly  absorbed  than  when 
prepared  with  other  bases  as  a  vehicle. 
Liebreich  prepares  lanolin  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner : 

He  takes  the  suds  from  the  washing 
of  wool  in  the  mills,  submits  it  to  the 
action  of  a  centrifugal  machine  which 


separates  the  soapy,  oily  suds  from  the 
dirt  associated  therewith,  decomposes 
the  suds  by  an  acid,  whereby  the  acid 
and  the  saponifying  alkali  unite,  and 
the  saponified  wool-fat  is  separated, 
combined  with  about  100  per  cent,  of 
water ;  this  is  then  thoroughly  washed 
with  cold  water,  then  heated  so  as  to 
separate  the  water  and  the  wool-fat, 
and  again  combined  with  a  definite 
proportion  of  water,  and  lanolin  is  the 
result;  or,  he  treats  wool  with  alkaline 
water,  producing  his  suds  in  that  way, 
and  then  proceeding  as  above  out- 
lined. 

A  much  quicker  and  less  complex 
way  of  making  the  article  is  to  treat 
the  wool  directly  with  petroleum  ben- 
zine; distil  off  the  benzine,  and  the 
wool-fat  remains;  combine  this  with  a 
proper  proportion  of  water,  and  lanolin 
results. 

The  last  process  is  objectionable, 
however,  on  account  of  the  great  diffi- 
culty of  entirely  removing  the  odor  of 
benzine  from  the  product.  (W.) 

"Suint,"  or  Potass  ic  Sudorate  in 
Sheep's  Wool.  This  is  the  name  given 
by  the  French  to  the  sweat  exuded 
from  the  skin  of  the  sheep  and  retained 
in  the  wool.  This  substance,  which 
forms  nearly  15  per  cent,  of  the  raw 
wool,  may  readily  be  removed  from  the 
wool  by  simple  washing  in  water.  It 
contains  considerable  potash,  and  from 
this  source  there  are  produced  annually 
in  France  about  250,000  pounds  (or  100 
tons)  of  potash.  This  substance  must 
not  be  confounded  with  the  oil  or  grease 
of  the  wool  (which  constitutes  about  8£ 
per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  the  raw  wool, 
and  is  combined  largely  with  earthy 
matter,  chiefly  lime,  as  an  insoluble 
soap).  The  "suint"  is  a  neutral  salt 
of  potassium  Math  an  animal  acid  con- 
tained in  the  sweat.  The  wash-waters 
of  the  large  woollen  manufactories  are 
utilized  for  this  purpose,  the  liquors 
being  valued  according  to  their  strength. 
The  process  consists  in  boiling  down 
the  liquors  to  dryness,  calcining  the 
mixture,  lixiviating,  and  crystallizing. 
It  is  estimated  that  if  the  wash-water 
of  all  the  fleeces  handled  in  France  could 
be  utilized  the  country  could  derive 
from  that  source  all  the  potash  she 
requires  for  agricultural  and  other 
uses.  (W.) 


OILS  AND  FATS. 


451 


Refining  of  Cotton-seed  Oil.  One 
hundred  gallons  of  the  crude  oil  are 
placed  in  a  tank  and  3  gallons  of 
caustic  potash-lye  of  45°  B.  are  gradu- 
ally added  and  well  stirred  for  several 
hours ;  or,  the  same  quantity  of  oil  is 
treated  with  about  6  gallons  of  soda-lye 
of  25°  or  30°  B.,  and  heated  for  an  hour 
or  more  to  about  200°  or  240°  F.  under 
perpetual  stirring  and  left  to  settle. 
The  clear  oil  is  then  separated  from 
the  brown  soap  stock  and  this  dark 
soap  sediment  is  placed  into  bags, 
where  the  remainder  of  the  oil  will 
drain  off. 

Refined  cotton-seed  oil  has  the  color, 
transparency,  and  taste  of  olive  oil, 
and  it  has  the  same  character  for  lubri- 
cating and  pharmaceutical  purposes. 
It  has  the  property  of  resisting  cold, 
remaining  limpid,  when  pure,  at  30° 
F.,  and  quite  fluid  at  20°,  hardening 
only  at  8°  to  10°  F.  It  is  not  volatile, 
but  is  a  fixed  oil  like  lard,  sperm,  or 
olive  oil,  and  is  therefore  not  explosive. 
It  gives  a  brighter  light  and  burns 
longer  than  lard  oil,  owing  to  the 
absence  of  the  gum  which  always  exists 
in  lard  ;  and  for  this  reason  it  is  a  better 
lubricator  than  lard  oil.  It  is  almost 
impossible  to  distinguish  good  refined 
cotton-seed  oil  from  olive  oil,  and  for 
this  reason  the  latter  is  frequently 
adulterated  with  it,  the  general  pro- 
portion being  about  75  parts  of  cotton- 
seed oil  to  25  parts  of  olive  oil. 

In  the  Southern  and  Western  States 
refined  cotton-seed  oil  is  largely  used 
for  culinary  purposes,  and  it  is  claimed 
that  for  "shortening,"  as  for  pie- 
crusts, it  is  far  superior  to  lard  or  any 
other  grease,  both  as  to  taste  of  the 
finished  pie  and  its  appearance. 

Production  of  Light-colored  Soap,  or 
Light-colored  Sebacic  A  cids,  from  Crude 
Cotton-seed  Oil,  or  from  Residues  Ob- 
tained by  its  Purification.  The  oil  is 
freed  from  impurities  by  settling  or 
filtering.  The  residues  are  slightly 
warmed  with  a  little  water,  and  after 
cooling  drawn  off  from  the  aqueous 
layer.  The  oil  or  the  residues  are  then 
treated  with  sufficient  strong  soda-lye, 
so  that  the  soap  separates  in  flakes 
which  are  removed  from  the  strongly 
colored  under-layer.  The  soap  is  dis- 
solved in  as  little  water  as  possible,  and 
decolorized  by  the  addition  of  chlorine 


water.  Instead  of  the  latter,  bleaching 
powder,  potassium  chlorate,  potassium 
permanganate,  or  potassium  bichromate 
can  be  added  and  afterwards  acids.  By 
the  addition  of  an  excess  of  such  acids 
purified  sebacic  acids  are  separated. 

To  Remove  the  Disagreeable  Odor  of 
Soap  made  from  cotton-seed  oil,  boil  the 
oil  to  be  used  for  white  soap  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  25  per  cent,  soda-lye 
for  3  to  4  hours. 

Utilizing  Cotton-seed  Hulls.  Instead 
of  treating  the  hulls  as  refuse  or  burning 
them  for  fuel,  potash  and  phosphate  of 
lime  can  be  extracted  from  them  by  the 
following  process :  The  hulls  are  first 
burnt  and  the  resulting  ashes  boiled 
for  two  hours  in  about  ten  times  their 
weight  of  water.  Then  gradual ly  add 
about  half  the  weight  of  ash  of  lime 
to  the  boiled  solution  and  allow  it  to 
settle.  The  clear  liquid  is  next  drawn 
off  in  any  suitable  manner.  The  res- 
idue is  then  put  in  a  percolator  and 
exhausted  with  water,  and  the  solution 
is  added  to  the  clear  liquid,  and  both 
evaporated  to  dry  ness,  after  which  the 
potash  is  fused  and  run  into  moulds. 
The  process  of  exhaustion  is  repeated 
and  the  subsequent  washings  are  used 
to  dissolve  the  next  batch  of  ash  and  to 
slake  the  lime.  The  residue  left  in  the 
percolator  contains  50  per  cent,  of  phos- 
phate of  lime. 

New  Process  of  Extra  cling  Fish  Oil. 
The  fish  are  sprinkled  with  5  per  cent, 
of  their  weight  of  ferric  chloride  or 
sulphate  solution  of  45°  B.,  and  can  then 
be  kept  3  or  4  days  without  undergoing 
alteration.  They  are  then  crushed, 
made  into  a  paste,  and  pressed,  when  a 
large  quantity  of  oil  and  water  is  forced 
out.  The  cake  from  the  press  dries 
readily,  becomes  friable,  and  is  easily 
pulverized.  A  further  quantity  of  fatty 
matter  may  be  obtained  from  it,  either 
by  pressing  between  heated  metal 
plates,  or  by  extraction  with  benzine  or 
carbon  di-sulphide.  The  residue  forms 
an  excellent  fertilizer. 

Preparation  of  Heavy  Oils  and  Par- 
affine  from  Petroleum,  Residues.  A 
large  percentage  of  paraffine  oil  can  be 
obtained  by  distilling  the  residues  in 
vacuum  with  superheated  steam.  At 
from  59°  to  68°  F.  these  oils  are  gelat- 
inous and  contain  from  22  to  24  per 
cent,  of  paraffine,  20  per  cent,  of  which 


152 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


can  be  gained.  The  oils  are  first  puri- 
fied by  filtering  through  cloths  at  from 
86°  to  104°  F.,  and  treating  with  4  to  5 
per  cent,  of  sulphuric  acid  of  66°  B. 
After  allowing  the  tarry  substances  to 
settle  at  114°  F.,  the  oil  is  drawn  off, 
the  acid  removed  with  quicklime,  and 
the  oil  gradually  cooled  off  to  41°  F. 
The  paraffiue  crystallizes  and  can  be 
obtained  by  pressing,  after  which  it  is 
further  purified  by  pressing  with  amyl 
alcohol  or  benzine  and  filtration 
through  animal  charcoal. 

Purification  of  Oils.  Linseed  oil 
should  be  warmed  in  an  iron  boiler  and 
melted  lead  poured  into  it,  in  a  thin 
stream,  a  little  at  a  time.  It  should 
then  be  left  for  several  days  in  a  warm 
place,  when  a  deposit  separates  and  the 
oil  becomes  quite  clear.  Oil  thus 
treated  possesses  in  a  high  degree  the 
property  of  drying  quickly,  and  is  es- 
pecially suited" for  the  manufacture  of 
varnishes  aud  lacquers.  Cocoanut  oil 
should  be  rubbed  up,  thoroughly  in- 
corporated with  warm  water,  placed  hi 
a  bag  and  pressed  through  it.  The 
fluid  thus  obtained  is  brought  to  the 
boiling  point,  and  the  separating  oil 
clarified  with  sugar  and  alum.  The  oil 
thus  obtained  is  odorless,  white,  and 
well  adapted  for  use  in  perfumery. 
The  purification  of  fatty  oils  may  be 
conducted  in  the  following  manner:  In 
a  tub  provided  with  a  faucet  2  Ibs.  of 
potassium  permanganate  are  dissolved 
in  6i  gallons  of  water.  Eighteen  gal- 
lons of  oil  are  added  and  thoroughly 
agitated,  and  then  left  to  settle  for  2 
days.  After  this  time  4  gallons  of 
warm  water  are  added  with  11  Ibs.  of 
crude  hydrochloric  acid,  and  the  whole 
vigorously  agitated.  After  several  days' 
rest  the  water  is  drawn  off  from  the  oil 
and  the  latter  is  washed  with  hot  water 
to  remove  the  acid.  For  the  quicker 
separation  of  the  oil  from  the  water  the 
whole  is  placed  in  a  carboy  with  a  per- 
forated cork,  in  which  two  tubes  are 
fitted.  One  of  these  is  a  funnel  tube, 
reaching  nearly  to  the  bottom;  the 
other  is  a  bent  delivery  tube,  reaching 
a  little  way  below  the  cork.  By  pour- 
ing water  through  the  funnel  tube  the 
oil  is  delivered  bright  and  clear.  It  is 
colorless  and  odorless. 

Solidification  of  Liquid  Hydrocar- 
bons, The  liquid  hydrocarbon,  such  as 


crude  petroleum,  refined  petroleum, 
etc.,  is  mixed  with  some  melted  fat, 
after  which  the  mixture  is  acidulated, 
and  in  the  form  of  a  spray  introduced 
into  an  alkaline  solution.  The  mass 
coagulates  and  is  mechanically  sepa- 
rated from  the  aqueous  solution.  The 
coagulum  thus  obtained  is  made  still 
more  resisting  to  the  influence  of  heat, 
etc.,  by  mixing  with  water-glass  solu- 
tion to  which  has  been  added  burnt 
lime,  gypsum,  or  magnesia.  To  regain 
the  hydrocarbons  the  melted  mass  is 
compounded  with  dilute  sulphuric  or 
hydrochloric  acid,  whereby  fat  and  hy- 
drocarbon are  separated  on  the  surface. 
By  using  ammonia  for  coagulating  the 
hydrocarbon  the  dried  mass  after  heat- 
ing can  t>e  formed  into  candles  or 
torches.  For  preparing  solid  fuel  the 
coagulum  is  mixed  with  powdered 
eoke,  etc. 

The  same  method  can  also  be  used 
for  the  solidification  of  volatile  oils,  fat 
oils,  etc.  It  is  best  not  to  add  the  acid 
at  one  time,  but  in  several  portions, 
and  to  stir  thoroughly  after  each  addi- 
tion. If  crude  petroleum  is  to  be  solidi- 
fied to  be  used  for  candles  or  torches,  it 
is  previously  purified  by  treatment 
with  oxidizing  agents,  such  as  potas- 
sium manganate  and  permanganate, 
etc. 

Substitute  for  Linseed  Oil.  Melt  5i 
parts  of  light  Burgundy  pitch  and  mix 
with  2|  parts  of  crude  cotton-seed  oil 
and  i  part  of  fat  oil,  both  previously 
heated  to  176°  F.  Then  add  3i  parts 
of  petroleum  heated  to  the  same  tem- 
perature and  heat  the  mixture.  When 
cold  add  a  trace  of  a  mixture  of  oil  of 
valerian  and  essence  of  mirbane,  and 
allow  the  mixture  to  clarify.  By  boil- 
ing the  cotton-seed  oil  before  use  with 
3  per  cent,  of  gold  litharge  a  mass  is 
obtained  which  can  be  used  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  boiled  linseed  oil  in  prepar- 
ing paints,  varnishes,  etc. 

To  Purify  Oils.  Heat  the  oil  with  2 
to  3  per  cent,  of  sodium  di-sulphide  to 
77°  to  95°  F.,  and  stir  until  all  the  sul- 
phurous acid  has  escaped. 

The  following  method  is  especially 
used  for  rancid  and  bitter  peanut  oil 
and  oil  of  almonds:  Make  an  emulsion 
of  the  oil  with  a  base  (good  results  have 
been  obtained  with  potash  dissolved  in 
twenty  times  its  weight  of  water),  add 


PAPER. 


453 


about  double  the  volume  of  oil  of  water 
and  agitate.  In  an  hour  the  emulsion 
is  destroyed  with  sulphuric  acid  and 
diluted  with  ten  times  its  weight  of 
water.  The  reforming  process  com- 
mences immediately ;  the  oil  appears 
on  the  surface,  and  after  a  few  hours 
of  rest  is  completely  separated.  The  oil 
is  then  decanted  and  filtered. 

White  Vaseline  Oil.  To  100  parts 
of  yellow  Eussian  mineral  oil  add  with 
constant  stirring  25  parts  of  fuming 
sulphuric  acid  in  a  thin  stream.  Con- 
tinue the  stirring  for  30  minutes  and 
allow  the  mixture  to  rest  4  to  5  hours. 
Then  draw  the  supernatant  oil  from  the 
black  tar-like  sediment  into  another 
boiler,  and  add  gradually  and  in  small 
portions  30  per  cent,  of  best  well -dried 
decolorizing  powder  (residue  from  the 
manufacture  of  potassium  ferrocy- 
anide.)  Continue  the  stirring  with 
constant  heating  for  2  hours  and  then 
Jet  the  oil  rest  4  to  6  hours.  Draw  the 
oil  off  and  bring  it  into  a  double  walled 
filter  heated  by  steam  and  filled  i  with 
decolorizing  powder. 

Should  the  oil  coming  from  the  filter 
not  be  entirely  white,  pass  it  through  a 
second  filter  and  if  necessary  through 
a  third  until  the  desired  whiteness  is 
attained. 

The  major  portion  of  the  oil  retained 
by  the  decolorizing  powder  can  be  re- 
gained by  pressing  the  latter  in  a  filter- 
ing press,  and  by  boiling  the  pressed 
powder  with  water  acidulated  with  5 
per  cent,  of  sulphuric  acid  nearly  all 
the  remainder  of  the  oil  is  obtained. 

Solvent  Power  of  Glycerine.  Al- 
though not  used  to  a  great  extent  in  the 
chemical  industries  as  a  solvent,  glyc- 
erine is  of  considerable  service  for  this 
purpose  in  pharmacy.  Below  is  a  table 
showing  the  solvent  power  of  this  sub- 
stance. It  is  found  that  100  parts  (by 
weight)  of  glycerine  will  dissolve : 


30 

Cupi  ic  sulphate. 

VA 

Mercuric  chloride. 

27 

Mercuric  cyanide. 

2 

Iodine. 

I 

Phosphorus. 

20 

Plumbic  acetate. 

50 

Potassium  arsenate. 

V/* 

Potassium  chlorate. 

25 

Potassium  bromide. 

32 

Potassium  cyanide. 

40 

Potassium  iodide. 

8 

Hydrogen  sodium  carbonate. 

60 

Borax. 

98 

Sodium  carlionate. 

20 

Sodium  chlorate. 

& 

Sulphur. 

50 

Zinc  chloride. 

35 

Zinc  sulphate. 

50 

Urea. 

V£ 

Morphine. 

X^ 

Quinine. 

7* 

Strychnine. 

(W.) 

Parts  by  weight.                        Substance. 

20 

Arsenious  acid. 

20 

t 

Arsenic  acid. 

10 

§ 

Benzoic  acid. 

10 

Boracic  acid. 

15 

, 

Oxalic  acid. 

50 

Tannic  acid. 

40 

Alums. 

20 

Ammonium  carbonate. 

20 

. 

Ammonium  chloride. 

514 

Tartar  emetic. 

10    ;  ! 

Barium  chloride. 

PAPER. 

Cupro-ammonium  for  Rendering 
Paper  and  Textile  Fabrics  Water-,  Rot-, 
and  Insect-proof.  By  a  recently  pat- 
ented process  called  "  Willesdeni'ziiitf," 
paper,  canvas,  cordage,  etc.,  are  ren- 
dered water-proof  and  rot-proof,  and  are 
protected  against  liability  to  injury 
from  mould  and  the  attacks  of  insects. 
These  products  are  made  on  the  large 
scale  at  Willesden,  England,  by  the 
Patent  Water-proof  Paper  and  Canvas 
Co.  Two  classes  of  products  are  made. 
1.  Round  or  "made  up"  goods,  con- 
sisting of  rope  and  cordage,  Willesden- 
ized  netting,  etc. ;  and,  2.  Flat  goods 
turned  out  in  the  roll.  All  of  these 
fabrics  are  water-proof  and  free  from 
any  tendency  to  rot  or  mildew.  The 
"  Willesdenized "  paper  and  canvas 
are  made  in  endless  rolls,  and  of  any 
desired  thickness.  They  are  adapted  for 
diverse  uses,  such  as  panel-work  where 
great  strength  is  required,  as  a  roofing 
material  which  will  be  unaffected  by 
the  weather,  and  for  building  purposes 
generally.  Any  desired  thickness  of 
material  is  obtained  in  the  finished 
product  by  pressing  into  one  compact, 
homogeneous  sheet  several  layers  while 
they  are  still  superficially  gelatinized 
or  "  pectized "  by  the  action  of  the 
cupro-ammonium  solution. 

The  paper,  canvas,  etc.,  by  this 
process  is  treated  with  a  solution  of 
cupro-ammonium  hydroxide,  which  is 
prepared  by  the  action  of  strong  am- 


454 


TECHNO-CHEMiCAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


monia  on  copper  turnings,  in  a  cur- 
rent of  air.  The  action  of  the  solution 
on  vegetable  tissues  (cellulose)  is  a  sol- 
vent action.  The  extracts  to  be  treated, 
however,  are  passed  through  the  solu- 
tion at  such  a  rate  as  to  simply  gelatin- 
ize the  exterior  of  the  fibres  without 
disintegrating  them,  so  that  on  their 
emergence  from  the  batli  the  goods 
possess  sufficient  coherence  to  permit 
them  to  be  passed  through  a  suitable 
drying  apparatus.  By  this  treatment 
the  exterior  film  of"  pectized  "  cellulose 
is  converted  into  an  elastic  varnish  in 


bestos  fibres  of  the  best  quality  are 
washed  in  solution  of  potassium  per- 
manganate and  bleached  with  sul- 
phuric acid.  To  95  parts  of  fibre  thus 
prepared  are  added  5  parts  of  ground 
cellulose  such  as  is  used  in  paper  mills. 
The  mass  is  then  thoroughly  mixed 
with  an  addition  of  glue  water  and 
borax  and  then  worked  into  paper. 
The  product  is  smooth  and  is  made  fit 
for  writing  by  satin  Jzingj  it  is  claimed 
to  resist  a  strong  red  heat. 

For  the    preparation   of  fire-proof 
printing  and  writing  ink  a  mixture  of 


which  all  the  copper  taken  up  by  the  i  platinum  chloride  and  oil  of  lavender 
materials  is  retained  in  the  combination  I  is  used,  to  which,  for  black  printing  ink, 
(probably  as  a  cupro-cellulose)  and  |  lampblack  and  varnish  are  added,  and 
forms  a  perfect  water-proof  coating.  for  writing  ink,  Chinese  ink,  water,  and 

Instead    of    cupro-ammonium     the    gum-Arabic, 
analogous    zinc     compound    may    be        For  a  good  fire-proof  printing  ink  10 

used,  though  its  action  is  not  so  prompt    x    ~f    '  "' 

as  that  of  the  copper  compound.  Good 
results  are  obtained  by  using  a  mixture 
of  the  two  metallic  compounds.  The 


products  here  described  have  only 
lately  been  placed  upon  the  market, 
but  enough  is  known  of  them  to  make 
it  safe  to  state  that  they  possess  most 
variable  qualities.  (W.) 

fabrication  of  Parchment.  A  solid 
parchment  impermeable  to  water  and 
adapted  for  the  osmose  of  molasses, 
etc.,  is  prepared  as  follows :  Woollen 
or  cotton  tissues  are  freed  by  washing 
from  gum,  starch,  and  other  foreign 
substances,  and  then  passed  between 


parts  of  platinum  chloride  and  25  parts 
of  lavender  oil  are  heated  in  a  por- 
celain dish  until  the  development  of 
gas  ceases,  and  35  parts  of  lampblack 
and  30  parts  of  varnish  added  in  small 
portions.  On  heating  paper  printed 
with  this  preparation  the  platinum  is 
reduced  and  remains  as  a  black-brown 
coating. 

For  fire-proof  writing  ink  a  mixture 
of  5  parts  of  platinum  chloride,  15  of 
lavender  oil,  18  of  Chinese  ink,  1  of 
gum-Arabic,  and  64  of  water  is  used. 

Colored  fire-proof  inks  are  produced 
by  an  admixture  of  metallic  under- 
gla/e  colors. 


Gas-pipes  from  Paper.     A  strip  of 
manilla  paper  equal  in  width  to  the 


two  rollers  in  a  bath  containing  some 

paper    pulp.     The  product  is    passed    .„„  r«r_   ^ „„  „„„ 

through  a  bath  of  concentrated  sul-  length  of  the  pipe  to  be  made  is  passed 
phuric  acid  and  then  repeatedly  dipped  I  through  a  vessel  with  melted  asphalt, 
into  one  of  aqueous  ammonia  until  the  j  and  then  wrapped  firmly  and  uniformly 
acid  is  completely  neutralized.  It  is  around  an  iron  core  until  the  required 
then  pressed  between  rollers,  dried  be- 
tween two  other  rollers  covered  with 
felt,  and  finally  calendered. 

.Fire-proof  Papers,  Colors,  and 
Printed  Matter.  Actually  fire-proof 
paper,  i.  e.,  such  as  will  bear  a  temper- 
ature of  1482°  F.,  in  connection  with 
printers'  ink  or  ink  not  affected  by  such 
a  strong  heat,  has  not  been  known  up 


to  this  time.  Some  papers  manufact 
ured  with  asbestos  will  stand  certain 
degrees  of  heat,  but  they  are  not  suit- 
able for  writing  or  printing  paper.  L. 

Forbern,  of  Berlin,  now  prepares  such  >  bichromate,  4  of  gelatine,  and  50  of 
papers  of  the  desired  qualities  accord-  j  calcium  sulphide.  The  constituents 
ing  to  a  method  patented  by  him.  As- 1  are  thoroughly  dried  and  mixed  by 


thickness  is  attained.  The  pipe  is  then 
subjected  to  powerful  pressure,  after 
which  the  outside  is  strewn  over  with 
sand,  and  the  whole  cooled  in  water. 
The  core  is  then  removed  and  the  in- 
side of  the  pipe  coated  with  a  water- 
proof composition.  These  pipes  are 
claimed  to  be  perfectly  gas-tight  and 
much  cheaper  than  iron  pipes,  and 
very  resisting  to  shocks  and  concus- 
sions. 

Luminous    Paper.      The    luminous 
mass  consists  of  4  parts  of  potassium 


STRAW,  BLEACHING  AND  DYEING  OF. 


455 


grinding.  One  part  of  the  resulting 
powder  IL  stirred  with  2  parts  of  boiling 
water  to  a  thickly  fluid  paint,  1  or  2 
coats  of  which  are  applied  with  a  brush 
to  the  paper  or  pasteboard  to  be  made 
luminous.  To  avoid  inequality  in  the 
thickness  of  the  layer  of  paint  the 
paper  is  passed  through  a  sort  of  cal- 
ender with  rolls  at  a  proper  distance 
to  insure  a  uniform  spreading  of  the 
luminous  mass.  The  rolls  may  be 
heated,  if  desired. 

Manufacture  of  Bottles,  etc.,  from 
Paper.  Well-sized  paper  made  of  10 
parts  of  rags,  40  of  straw,  and  50  of 
brown  wood-pulp  is  generally  used. 
The  paper  is  impregnated  or  coated  on 
both  sides  with  a  mixture  of  GO  parts 
of  defibrinated  blood,  35  parts  of  lime 
powder,  aud  5  parts  of  sulphate  of  al- 
uminium. After  drying  10  or  12  rolled 
leaves  are  coated  again,  placed  over 
each  other,  and  then  brought  into  heated 
moulds.  The  albumen  in  the  blood 
forms  a  combination  on  pressure  with 
the  lime  which  is  perfectly  proof  against 
spirits,  etc.  Bottles  are  made  in  2 
pieces,  which  are  joined  afterwards 
with  caoutchouc  cement. 

New  Method  of  Manufacturing  Paper 
Pulp.  Straw  or  wood  is  digested  for 
12  hours  in  dilute  milk  of  lime  ;  it  is 
then  saturated  with  sulphur  dioxide 
under  a  pressure  of  four  atmospheres, 
which  effects  a  complete  disintegration 
of  the  mass  in  1  or  2  hours.  The  mass 
is  washed  with  water  and  subjected 
under  pressure  to  the  action  of  3  per 
cent,  of  calcium  chloride  and  0.5  per 
cent,  of  aluminium  sulphate  dissolved 
in  a  small  quantity  of  water.  After  a  ! 
final  washing  the  product  resembles 
cotton  wool  in  appearance  and  can  be 
used  for  the  manufacture  of  the  finest 
kind  of  paper. 

Paper  for    Covering   Boilers.     Im- 
pregnate the  paper  with  a  silicate  and,  • 
when  dry,  coat  with   a  mixture  of  2  j 
parts  of  magnesia,  2  of  zinc  white,  4  of 
sodium  silicate,  aud  1  of  linseed  oil. 
When  dry  apply  a  coat  of  sodium  sili- 
cate. 

Preparation  of  Soap  Paper.  The  , 
material  for  impregnating  the  paper  | 
consists  of  10  parts  of  glycerine,  30 ! 
of  alcohol,  60  of  dry  glycerine  soap,  ; 
and  50  of  ordinary  dry  neutral  soap  | 
at  a  temperature  varying  between  162°  j 


and  180°  F.  In  the  trough  containing 
the  mixture  are  three  rollers  driven  by 
steam  and  revolving  in  the  same  di- 
rection, over  the  lower  side  of  which 
the  paper  is  passed.  During  the  man- 
ipulation a  thin  spray  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine is  allowed  to  fall  upon  the 
paper,  which  makes  it  dry  more  quickly 
and  gives  it  a  beautiful  lustrous  ap- 
pearance. The  patent  applies  not  only 
to  paper  but  to  all  materials  containing 
40  or  more  per  cent,  of  cotton. 

To  make  Parchment  Paper  Imperme- 
able to  Oil.  Dip  the  parchment  in  a 
hot  solution  of  gelatine  to  which  has 
been  added  2  J  to  3  per  cent,  of  glycerine 
and  dry.  To  make  the  same  parchment 
water-proof  soak  in  a  solution  of  1  per 
cent,  of  linseed  oil  and  4  per  cent,  of 
caoutchouc  in  carbon  di-sulphide. 


STRAW,  BLEACHING  AND  DYEING  OF. 

Before  straw  is  available  for  the 
many  industrial  purposes  for  which  it 
is  used  it  is  subjected  to  a  bleaching 
process,  which  is  generally  preceded  by 
a  cleansing  bath.  For  the  purpose  of 
dissolving  the  natural  coloring  matter 
the  straw  is  steeped  in  hot  water  and 
then  treated  with  alkaline  lye,  consist- 
ing of  50  parts  of  water,  8  of  potash, 
and  12  of  soda.  When  taken  from 
this  bath  it  is  successively  immersed 
in  two  or  three  of  weaker  lye,  and 
finally  rinsed  in  boiling  water.  The 
bleaching  process  commences  in  a 
chlorine  bath  and  is  finished  in  one  of 
sulphuric  acid.  Good  results  are  also 
obtained  by  treating  the  straw,  after 
the  cleansing  process,  with  sulphur 
vapors,  but  in  order  to  obtain  beautiful 
shades  of  color  it  is  advisable  in  this  ca^e 
to  color  the  straw  after  the  treatment 
with  a  little  picric  acid  by  immersing 
it  in  a  bath  consisting  of  24  pounds 
of  water  and  f  drachm  of  crystallized 
picric  acid.  Besides,  with  sulphur  va- 
pors, the  straw  can  also  be  bleached  in 
the  following  manner:  Immerse  30 
pounds  of  straw  in  warm  water  for  a  few 
hours,  then  treat  it  with  a  soda  solu- 
tion of  40°  B.  for  6  hours,  and  boil  it 
for  1  hour  with  1  pound  of  chloride  of 
lime.  Then  add  to  the  bath  1  ounce  12 
drachms  of  hydrochloric  acid  diluted 
with  3  gallons  of  water  and  allow  the 


456 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


straw  to  remain  in  it  for  i  hour,  after 
which  it  is  placed  in  a  1  per  cent,  soda 
bath,  and  finally  rinsed  in  water.  By 
this  method  the  straw  acquires  a  beau- 
tiful white  color  and  great  suppleness 
and  elasticity. 

Before  dyeing  it  is  advisable  to 
thoroughly  soak  the  straw  in  order  to 
fix  the  color  uniformly.  The  most  im- 
portant colors  are  black,  brown,  and 
gray. 

Black  for  22  Pounds  of  Straw.  Boil 
the  straw  for  2  hours  in  a  dye-bath  of  4 
pounds  of  logwood  and  1  pound  of  su- 
mach or  gall  nuts,  and  then  place  it  in 
a  bath  of  nitrate  of  iron  (best  4°  B.), 
rinse  and  dry. 

Black  for  22  Pounds  of  Straw.  Boil 
for  2  hours  with  logwood  4  pounds,  su- 
mach 4  pound,  and  fustic  or  turmeric  1 
pound.  Then  darken  with  green  vit- 
riol, rinse  and  dry. 

Black  for  22  Pounds  of  Straw.  Boil 
for  2  hours  with  green  vitriol  4  pounds, 
tartar  2  pounds,  and  blue  vitriol  1 
pound.  Finish  in  a  bath  of  8  pounds 
of  logwood,  with  an  addition  of  some 
turmeric. 

Gray  for  22  Pounds  of  Straw.  Soak 
the  straw  in  a  solution  of  sodium  car- 
bonate, with  an  addition  of  some  lime 
to  remove  the  sulphur.  Then  boil  for 
2  hours  in  a  dye-bath  consisting  of 
alum  4  pounds,  tartaric  acid  3i  ounces, 
and,  according  to  the  desired  shade, 
some  cochineal  or  indigo  carmine.  To 
neutralize  the  cochineal  add  some  sul- 
phuric acid.  After  boiling  wash  the 
straw  in  slightly  acidulated  water. 

Brown  for  22  Pounds  of  Straw.  Boil 
for  2  hours  in  a  dye-bath  of  1  pound  10 
ounces  of  sanders  wood,  2  pounds  of 
turmeric,  i  pound  of  sumach,  and  1 
pound  5  ounces  of  logwood.  Then 
rinse  and  darken  according  to  the  de- 
sired shade  with  3  to  4  per  cent,  of 
green  vitriol. 

Chestnut-brown  for  22  Pounds  of 
Straw.  Catechu  1  pound  10  ounces, 
turmeric  2  pounds,  gall  nuts  6  ounces, 
and  logwood  1  ounce.  Boil  for  2  hours, 
rinse,  and  finally  treat  with  nitrate  of 
iron  of  4°  B.  and  rinse  again. 

Havana  Brown  for  22  Pounds  of 
Straiv.  Soak  the  straw  in  solution  of 
4i  to  6-i  pounds  of  alum,  then  dye  in  a 
bath  of  13  ounces  of  sanders  wood,  1 
pound  of  turmeric,  3  ounces  8  drachms 


of  sumach,  and  12£  ounces  of  logwood, 
and  rinse. 

Violet  for  22  Pounds  of  Straw.  Boil 
for  2  hours  with  alum  4  pounds,  tar- 
taric acid  1  pound,  and  tin  salt  1 
pound.  According  to  the  shade  de- 
sired add  some  extract  of  logwood  or 
indigo.  After  dyeing,  wash  in  water 
compounded  with  alum. 

Red  for  22  Pounds  of  Straw.  The 
mordant  consists  of  tartar  1  pound  and 
some  tin  salt.  Boil  for  two  hours. 
Then  boil  for  one  hour  with  fustic  1 
pound,  turmeric  7  ounces,  madder  7 
ounces,  cudbear  1  pound,  and  logwood 
1  pound.  Then  add,  according  to  the 
shade  desired,  cudbear,  archil,  or 
madder. 

Green  for  22  Pounds  of  Straw.  Boil 
for  2  hours  in  a  mordant  of  sumach  7 
ounces,  alum  2  pounds,  and  tartar  1 
pound,  and  then  add  some  picric  acid, 
turmeric,  and  aniline  green. 

Straw  can  also  be  dyed  with  aniline 
colors,  the  manipulation  of  which  pre- 
sents no  difficulties. 

To  give  lustre  to  the  articles  manu- 
factured from  the  dyed  straw,  gum  or 
gelatine  is  frequently  used. 


STRENGTH  OF  MATERIALS. 

Autographic  Torsion  Testing  Ma- 
chine, made  by  the  Pratt  &  Whitney 
Co.,  Hartford,  Conn.  This  instrument 
has  been  devised  by  Prof.  R.  H.  Thurston 
for  the  special  purpose  of  determining 
thetorsional  strength  of  materials  of  con- 
struction. It  gives  the  investigator  an 
autographic  accord  of  the  values  of 
elasticity,  ductility,  homogeneity,  and 
ultimate  resistance  of  the  various  met- 
als, alloys,  woods,  etc.,  used  in  engi- 
neering constructions,  enabling  him  to 
pass  a  sound  judgment  upon  the  rela- 
tive usefulness  of  such  materials  ibr  the 
various  purposes  in  construction  for 
which  they  may  be  intended.  The 
machine  is  constructed  with  special 
reference  to  convenience  of  operation, 
and  provides  improved  methods  of  sub- 
jecting specimens  to  torsional  strains, 
either  continuously  or  intermittingly, 
through  all  degrees  of  strain  to  final 
rupture;  and  the  autographic  recording 
device  with  which  the  same  is  pro- 
vided exhibits  graphically  throughout 


STRENGTH  OF  MATERIALS. 


457 


the  entire  investigation  the  relation  be- 
tween the  moment  of  torsion  and  the 
angle  of  torsion.  The  following  de- 
scription will  make  its  construction 
and.  operation  clear : 


men  to  the  weighted  pendulum  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  frame.  A  yoke, 
carrying  a  pencil,  is  attached  or  pivoted 
to  the  pendulum,  and  is  guided  at  its 
upper  end  by  a  brass  semi-circular  tern- 


Fig. 

The  jaws  (Fig.  78)  which  receive  the 
specimen  each  have  their  axis  in  the 
same  plane  horizontally  and  verti- 
cally, and  motion  given  to  the  worm 
wheel  is  imparted  through  the  speci- 


plate  or  "curve  of  lines,"  its  inner  edge 
being  made  to  represent  a  curve,  the 
ordinates  of  which  correspond  to  the 
torsional  resistance  of  the  weighted 
pendulum  while  moving  through  an 


458 


TECH  NO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


arc  to  which  the  corresponding  abscissae 
are  proportional ;  while  the  rotation  of 
the  jaw  attached  to  the  worm  wheel 
causes  the  pencil  to  be  moved  forward 
by  the  action  of  the  guide  curve. 

Upon  the  shaft  connecting  the  worm 
wheel  and  the  jaws  which  receive  the 
end  of  the  specimen  is  a  brass  drum  5i 
inches  wide,  and  circumference  equal 
to  36  inches;  upon  this  drum  is 
stretched  a  special  blank  of  section- 
lined  paper,  upon  which  strain  dia- 
grams are  thus  autographically  traced. 

The  motion  of  the  pencil  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  axis  measures  the  torsional 
moment,  from  which  the  tensile 
strength  of  the  specimen  may  be  de- 
duced ;  while  the  rotation  of  the  drum 
carrying  the  diagram  represents  the 
angle  of  torsion,  from  which  is  deduced 
the  ductility  of  the  specimen. 

By  an  improved  device  the  worm  can 
be  readily  disengaged  from  the  worm 
wheel,  and  by  carefully  allowing  the 
pendulum  to  swing  back  to  its  normal 
position  the  limit  of  elasticity  may  be 
determined. 

By  placing  a  number  of  the  diagrams 
representing  strains  or  tests  of  various 
metals,  alloys,  etc.,  upon  the  same 
sheet,  the  results  obtained  may  be  read- 
ily compared.  (W.) 


WILLOW- WARE. 

Bleaching  Willow-ware.  This  can 
be  effected  either  by  means  of  sulphur- 
ous acid,  chlorine,  or  peroxide  of  hy- 
drogen. The  latter  process,  though 
but  little  practised,  is  preferable  to  the 
others,  as  no  unwholesome  gases  or  bad 
odors  are  evolved. 

For  bleaching  with  sulphurous  acid 
place  an  iron  dish  filled  with  flowers 
of  sulphur  in  the  bleaching  room,  and, 
After  igniting  the  sulphur,  leave  the 
door  open  until  the  sulphur  burns 
freely.  Then  close  the  door  all  but  a 
small  crack,  and  only  shut  it  entirely 
when  the  sulphur  is  nearly  consumed. 
Leave  the  articles  5  to  6  hours  in  the 
room. 

For  bleaching  with  chlorine  mix  1 
part  of  chloride  of  lime  with  15  parts 
of  water,  acidulate  the  mixture  with 
sulphuric  acid  and  place  the  vessel  in 
the  bleaching  room,  which  should  be 


air-tight  and  previously  filled  with  the 
articles  to  be  bleached  so  arranged  that 
they  are  not  in  contact  with  the  floor 
or  the  walls. 

Peroxide  of  hydrogen,  which  is  now 
an  article  of  commerce,  is  the  most  ef- 
fective and  harmless  bleaching  agent. 
It  is  entirely  odorless,  bleaches  the  ar- 
ticles in  less  time  than  the  others,  and 
no  special  bleaching  room  is  required. 
Place  the  articles  in  a  bath  of  com- 
mercial peroxide  of  hydrogen  for  ^ 
hour,  then  take  them  out  and  expose 
them  to  the  sun.  By  this  treatment 
even  yellowish  and  brownish  willow- 
ware  is  bleached  snow-white. 

Stains  for  Willow-ware.  All  kinds 
of  osiers  take  stains  remarkably  well, 
but  in  order  that  they  may  penetrate 
deeper  and  remain  more  constant  when 
exposed  to  air  and  light  it  is  advisable 
to  treat  the  osiers  first  with  a  chemical 
agent,  lime-water  being  especially 
adapted  for  the  purpose.  It  is  pre- 
pared by  gradually  slaking  fresh-burnt 
lime  with  lukewarm  water  until  it  falls 
to  a  fine  powder,  and  stirring  1  part  of 
this  with  15  to  16  parts  of  soft  water, 
allowing  it  to  settle  and  pouring  off  the 
supernatant  fluid.  The  osiers  are 
placed  in  this  for  £  to  6  hours,  accord- 
ing to  their  thickness.  They  are  then 
taken  out  and  dried  at  about  96°  to 
104°  F.  The  warm  wood  eagerly  ab- 
sorbs every  kind  of  stain. 

The  osiers  are  generally  colored  be- 
fore working  them  into  articles  by 
boiling  in  the  stain  for  a  shorter  or 
longer  time,  according  to  their  thick- 
ness and  the  depth  of  the  color  desired. 
Small  finished  articles  are,  however, 
sometimes  colored  by  applying  the  hot 
stain  by  means  of  a  brush  or  dipping 
them  in  the  boiling  stain.  For  the 
latter  process  large  vessels  and  consid- 
erable quantities  of  stain  are,  of  course, 
required. 

Black  Stain.  Place  the  osiers  in  a 
boiling  solution  of  100  parts  of  aniline 
nitrate  and  5  parts  of  cupric  chloride 
in  1500  parts  of  water  for  1  hour. 
Then  take  them  out,  dry  thoroughly 
and  place  them  for  J  hour  in  a  boiling 
bath  of  100  parts  of  potassium  bichro- 
mate in  2000  parts  of  water. 

No.  2.  Boil  250  parts  of  logwood  ex- 
tract with  2500  parts  of  rain-water  and 
15  parts  of  alum.  After  straining  the 


WILLOW-WARE. 


459 


liquid  to  remove  the  impurities  con- 
tained in  the  logwood  extract,  immerse 
the  osiers  for  2  to  6  hours,  according 
to  their  thickness,  keeping  the  bath 
constantly  boiling  to  effect  a  thorough 
penetration  of  the  stain.  After  taking 
them  out  and  drying  place  them  for  2 
to  4  hours  in  a  boiling  solution  of 
150  parts  of  sulphate  of  iron  iu  1500 
parts  of  rain-water. 

A  very  beautiful  b'lack  color  is  ob- 
tained by  placing  the  osiers  in  the 
above-mentioned  decoction  of  logwood 
extract,  and,  after  drying,  bringing 
them  for  4  to  6  hours  in  a  boiling  solu- 
tion of  130  parts  of  cupric  sulphate  in 
2000  parts  of  rain-water. 

Hlne  Stain.  Boil  200  parts  of  indigo 
with  4000  parts  of  soft  water  and  leave 
the  osiers  5  to  6  hours  in  the  boiling 
stain. 

Brown  Stains.  Place  the  osiers  in  a 
solution  of  10  parts  of  potassium  per- 
manganate in  crystals  in  300  parts  of 
water.  By  taking  them  out  imme- 
diately and  allowing  them  to  drain  as 
quickly  and  uniformly  as  possible  a 
pale  yellow-brown  color  is  obtained; 
by  allowing  them  to  remain  i  hour  a 
somewhat  darker  color,  which,  by  an 
immersion  of  2  to  3  hours,  may  be 
made  a  dark  chestnut-brown. 

No.  2.  Place  the  osiers  for  2  hours 
in  a  boiling  solution  of  15  parts  of  pot- 
ash in  200  parts  of  water,  and,  after 
drying,  place  them  for  2  hours  in  a 
boiling  solution  of  5  parts  ofpyrogallic 
acid  in  200  parts  of  water.  The  color 
thus  obtained  is  a  beautiful  light  chest- 
nut-brown and  very  constant. 

No.  3.  Place  the  osiers  for  4  hours 
in  a  strained  decoction  of  15  parts  of 
prepared  catechu  and  3  parts  of  soda 
with  200  of  water,  and,  after  drying, 
for  1  hour  in  a  solution  of  10  parts  of 
potassium  bichromate  in  250  parts  of 
water. 

Gray  Stains.  Blue-gray.  Place  the 
osiers  for  2  hours  in  a  boiling  solution 
of  35  parts  of  sulphate  of  iron  in  150 
parts  of  water,  and,  after  drying,  i  hour 
in  a  boiling  solution  of  3  parts  ofpyro- 
gallic acid  in  100  parts  of  water. 

Dark  Gray.  Place  the  osiers  for  2  to 
6  hours,  according  to  the  depth  of  color 
required,  in  a  boiling  solution  of  45 
parts  of  sulphate  of  iron  in  150  parts 
of  water,  and,  after  drying,  for  the  same 


length  of  time  iu  a  boiling  solution  of 
20  parts  of  pyrogallic  acid  in  100  parts 
of  water. 

For  the  production  of  beautiful  pure 
gray  colors  only  fine  green  sulphate  of 
iron  is  to  be  used,  while  for  yellowish- 
gray  shades  the  weathered,  rusty  mate- 
rial is  employed. 

Green  Stain.  Place  the  osiers  for  3 
to  4  hours  in  a  boiling  solution  of  20 
parts  of  indigo  and  10  parts  of  picric 
acid  in  500  parts  of  water.  The  shades 
of  green  can  be  varied  at  pleasure  by 
using  different  proportions  of  the  two 
coloring  matters.  Bluish-green  and 
blue-green  shades  are  obtained  by 
taking  more  indigo  and  yellowish-green 
and  yellow-green  by  adding  more  picric 
acid. 

Yellow  Stain.  Boil  20  parts  of 
Avignon  berries,  powdered  or  ground 
as  fine  as  possible,  and  2£  parts  of  soda 
with  200  parts  of  water,  strain,  and, 
after  boiling  the  clear  liquor,  place  the 
osiers  in  it  for  2  to  4  hours. 

Yellow  Stain  from  Picric  Acid.  Dis- 
solve 10  parts  of  crystallized  picric  acid 
in  200  parts  of  boiling  water.  By  treat- 
ing the  osiers  for  2  hours  in  this  solu- 
tion a  beautiful  yellow  color,  of  great 
constancy,  is  obtained. 

Coloring  Osiers  with  Aniline  Colors. 
It  is  best,  as  a  general  rule,  to  produce 
only  black,  brown,  gray,  and  yellow 
colors  by  means  of  stains,  and  the  more 
vivid  colors,  such  as  red,  blue-green, 
etc.,  with  aniline  colors. 

In  coloring  with  aniline  colors  the 
treatment  of  the  osiers  with  lime-water 
is  omitted,  as  in  the  presence  of  the 
smallest  quantity  of  quicklime  the 
aniline  colors  frequently  undergo  a 
change.  The  osiers  are  instead  treated 
in  a  bath  prepared  by  boiling  12  parts 
of  Marseilles  soap  in  500  parts  of  water 
until  the  soap  is  dissolved.  After  suf- 
ficient soaking  in  the  soap-bath  the 
osiers  are  thoroughly  dried  in  a  heated 
room. 

Aniline  colors  soluble  in  water 
should  be  used,  though  such  as  are 
soluble  in  water  and  alcohol  may  also 
be  employed  by  dissolving  them  in  a 
small  quantity  of  alcohol  and  diluting 
with  water.  The  colors  soluble  in 
water  are  mixed  with  the  required 
quantity  of  water,  best  heated  from  86° 
1  to  140°  F.,  and,  after  stirring  for  a  few 


460 


TECHNO-CHEMICAL  RECEIPT  BOOK. 


minutes,  the  osiers  are  kept  in  the  bath 
until  they  are  sufficiently  colored. 

Blue  Stains.  Dark  Blue.  Fifteen 
parts  of  Bengal  blue  (deep  blue)  and 
350  parts  of  water. 

Greenish-blue.  Fifteen  parts  of  bleu 
trZs  vert  and  300  parts  of  water. 

Light  Blue.  Fifteen  parts  of  bleu  de 
lumfere  and  400  parts  of  water. 

Sky-blue.  Fourteen  parts  of  bleu  de 
del  and  400  parts  of  water. 

Brown  Stains.  Bismarck  Brown. 
Fifteen  parts  of  Bismarck  brown  and 
400  parts  of  water. 

Chestnut  Brown.  Eighteen  parts  of 
maroon  and  450  parts  of  water. 

Dark  Brown.  Eighteen  parts  of 
leukaniliue  brown  and  350  parts  of 
water. 

Gray  Stains.  Blue-gray.  Fifteen 
parts  of  gris-bleu  and  350  parts  of 
water. 

Iron-gray.  Twenty  parts  of  gris- 
rouge  and  350  parts  of  water. 

Gray.  Fourteen  parts  of  gris  and 
300  parts  of  water. 

Yellowish-gray.  Fifteen  parts  of 
gris-jaune  and  300  parts  of  water. 

Green  Stains.  Dark  Green.  Fifteen 
parts  of  methyl  green,  3  parts  of  bleu 
de  lumitre,  and  400  parts  of  water. 

Leaf-green.  Fifteen  parts  of  mala- 
chite green,  4  parts  of  naphthaline 
yellow,  and  300  parts  of  water. 

Dark  Leaf-green.  Fifteen  parts  of 
malachite  green,  3  parts  of  bleu  de 
lumi"ere,  and  300  parts  of  water. 

Light  Green.  Fifteen  parts  of 
methyl  green  and  300  parts  of  water. 

Malachite  Green.  Fifteen  parts  of 
malachite  green  and  300  parts  of  water. 

Red  Stains.  Crimson.  Twelve  parts 
of  rouge  cochenille  and  400  parts  of 
water. 

Coral  Red.  Twelve  parts  of  coral- 
line and  400  parts  of  water. 

Dark  Red.  Twelve  parts  of  fuchsine, 
4  parts  of  orange,  and  400  of  water. 

Delicate  Pale  Red.  Five  parts  of 
eosine  and  400  parts  of  water. 

Ponceau  Red.  Twelve  parts  of  pon- 
ceau and  400  parts  of  water. 

Rose  Color.  Twelve  parts  of  rose 
bengale  and  400  parts  of  water. 

Violet  Stains.  Bluish-violet.  Fif- 
teen parts  of  methyl  violet,  30  parts  of 
bleu  d  e  lumibre,  and  500  parts  of  rain- 
water. 


Dark  Violet.  Fifteen  parts  of  methyl 
violet  and  400  parts  of  water. 

Light  Violet.  Fifteen  parts  of  methyl 
violet  and  400  parts  of  water. 

Reddish-violet.  Fifteen  parts  of 
methyl  violet,  3  parts  of  fuchsine,  and 
400  parts  of  water. 

Yellow  Stains.  Dark  Yellow.  Eigh- 
teen parts  of  phosphine  and  300  parts 
of  water. 

Pure  Yellow.  Fifteen  parts  of  naph- 
thaline yellow  and  400  parts  of  water. 

Reddish-yellow.  Twenty  parts  of 
orange,  50  parts  of  fuchsine,  and  550 
parts  of  water. 

Saffron  Yellow.  Eighteen  parts  of 
saffronine  and  300  parts  of  water. 

By  mixing  several  colors  an  innu- 
merable variety  of  shades  can  be  pro- 
duced ;  but,  to  avoid  mistakes,  it  is  best 
to  always  experiment  first  with  small 
quantities. 

Varnishing,  Gilding,  and  Painting 
Willow-ware.  If  willow-ware  is  to  be 
varnished  without  staining,  it  is  best, 
after  bleaching  the  articles,  to  give 
them  a  coat  of  a  hot  solution  of  white 
glue.  This  closes  the  pores  and  makes 
the  coat  of  varnish  more  uniform  and 
more  lustrous.  Dammar  varnish  and 
cheap  copal  varnish  should  never  be 
used. 

For  white  ware  use  colorless  spirit 
lacquer ;  for  dark  ware,  light  and  dark 
brown  spirit  lacquer  or  quick-drying 
copal  varnish ;  and  for  black,  deep- 
black  spirit  lacquer  or  quick-drying 
asphaltum  lacquer. 

If  the  ware  is  to  be  painted,  give  two 
coats  of  good  oil  paint,  and  when  thor- 
oughly dry  a  coat  of  varnish. 

For  gilding,  apply  first  a  coat  of 
well-covering  pale  yellow  oil  paint 
(white  lead  and  ochre),  and  when  dry 
a  coat  of  gilders'  varnish.  Before  the 
latter  is  entirely  dry  lay  on  the  gold  or 
silver-leaf  cut  into  suitable  pieces,  and 
press  it  down  with  a  cotton  pad.  When 
dry  remove  the  superfluous  leaf  with  a 
soft  brush. 

Bronzing  is  done  by  applying  a  coat 
of  good  copal  varnish,  and  before  the 
latter  is  entirely  dry  dusting  over  the 
bronze  powder  by  means  of  a  soft 
brush.  To  avoid  unnecessary  loss, 
place  the  article  upon  a  sheet  of  clean 
white  paper,  so  that  superfluous  bronze 
powder  can  be  saved. 


INDEX. 


Abb«  elixir,  16. 
Absinthe  tincture,  13. 

veritable  extract,  25. 
Acetate  of  indigo,  184,  185. 

potassium,  to  prepare,  74. 
Acetic  acid,  pure,  to  prepare,  73. 

acid,  to  prepare,  360. 

ether,  to  prepare,  358. 
Acid,  acetic,  360. 

acetic,  to  prepare,  73. 

molybdic,  to  prepare,  73,  74. 

nitric,  detection  of  in  vinegar,  2. 

oleic,  to  prepare,  73. 

oxalic,  preparation  of,  73. 

sulphocyanic,  to  prepare,  73. 

sulphuric,  detection  of  in  vinegar,  2. 

tartaric,  detection  of  in  vinegar,  2. 

tar,  to  extract  oil  from,  251. 
Adrielle's  process  of  silvering  metals,  112. 
Adulterations,  imitations,  etc.,  how  to  detect 
them,  1-3. 

in  beer,  223-226. 
Agate,  how  to  imitate,  11. 

Schrader's  formula,  12. 

to  convert  into  onyx,  177,  178. 
Agents,  cleansing,  polishing,  and  renovating, 

75-78. 
Air,  compressed,  blowing  glass  by  means  of, 

426-430. 
Alabaster  glass,  144. 

soap,  333. 

to  cleanse,  78. 
Albumen,  from  blood,  324,  325. 

natural,  manufacture  of,  324,  325. 

patent,  325. 
Alcohol,  absolute,  to  prepare,  227. 

amyl,  229,  230. 

and    compressed    yeast    from    uncrushed 
cereals,  226. 

of  70  per  cent,  to  convert  to  90  per  cent,  in 
the  cold  way,  226. 

to  purify,  226,  227,  230. 

use  of  in  detecting  adulteration  of  wax,  2. 
Alfieri's  receipt  for  removing  incrustations,  40. 
Alizarine,  artificial,  186. 

dyeir-?  Turkey  red  with,  106, 107. 

inks,  196, 197. 

liquor,  187. 

oil,  English  patent,  107. 

preparation  of,  184-187. 

process  of  obtaining,  185-187. 
Alkaline  copying  ink,  198. 

gelatine  developer,  298. 

tooth-powder,  94. 
Allataim  du  Harem,  58. 
Alloy  for  imitation  of  gold  and  silver  wires,  8. 

for  music  printing  plates,  6. 

for  soldering  aluminium,  4, 


Alloy,  new,  for  silvering,  404. 

new  nickel,  5. 

of  copper,  platinum,  and  palladium,  403. 

resembling  gold,  8. 

resembling  silver,  8. 

Robertson's,  for  filling  teeth,  3. 

unalterable,  7. 

which  will  not  oxidize,  5. 
Alloys,  3-8,  4' i3-406. 

aluminium,  3,  4. 

available  for  spoons  and  forks,  6. 

density  of,  405. 

English  copper,  7,  8. 

exhibiting  greater  density  than  the  mean 
of  their  constituents,  405. 

exhibiting  less  density  than  the  mean  of 
their  constituents,  405. 

for  dental  purposes,  6. 

for  journal-boxes,  6. 

for  taking  impressions  of  corns,   medals, 
etc.,  3. 

fusibility  of,  405. 

manganese,  403,  404. 

resembling  silver,  5,  403. 

silver  and  aluminium,  4. 

table  of  composition  of,  8. 

which  can  be  rolled  at  red  heat,  6. 
Almond,  bitter,  essence,  13. 
Almonds,  glazed,  84. 

roasted,  83. 

Altars,  to  cleanse  and  renovate,  260. 
Altvater's  process  of  manufacturing  vinegar, 

355-358. 

Alumina  and  iron  mordants  on  cotton-prints, 
linen,  etc.,  fixing  of  by  water-glass,  379. 
Aluminium  acetate,  187. 

alloy  for  soldering  aluminium,  4. 

alloys,  3. 

and  gold  alloys,  4. 

and  iron  alloy,  4. 

and  silver  alloys,  4. 

and  tin  alloys,  4. 

and  zinc  alloys,  4. 

bronze,  404. 

bronze,  solder  for  gold  on,  339. 

bronzes,  4. 

flux  for  soldering,  4. 

hydrate,  187. 

nitrate,  1S7. 

palmitate,  its  uses   in  industrial   works, 
211,212. 

plating  with,  111. 
Alum  in  red  wine,  3. 

manufacture  of,  from  residues  from  shale 

oil,  247. 
Ambergris  essence,  13. 

water,  18. 
Ambrosia,  a  new  nourishing  flour  food,  133. 

(461) 


462 


INDEX. 


American  nickelling,  109. 
sleigh-bells  5. 

woods,  strength  of  some,  396. 
Amethyst,  formula  for,  11. 
Amianthus  paper,  277. 
Ammoniacal  liquor  from   coal-tar,  utilization 

of,  373,  374. 

Ammonia,  from  gases  of  coke  ovens,  374,  375. 
from    nitrogeneous    organic     substances, 

377. 

liniment,  167. 
Ammonium,  cupio,  453. 

nitrate,  to  protect  from  moisture,  32. 
Amorces  d'Allumettes,  237. 
Amorphous  phosphorus,  preparation  of,  237, 

238. 

Amyl  alcohol,  229,  230. 
Anatomical  specimens,  fluids  for  preserving, 

310,311. 
Angel  elixir,  17. 
Angelica  cordial,  18. 
essence,  13. 
sweetmeat,  82. 
Anhydrous  glucose,  341. 
Aniline  colors,  coloring  osiers  with,  459,  460. 
colors,  to  dye  buttons  with,  184. 
colors,  to  dye  feathers  with,  1'22. 
colors,  to  dye  wool,  silk,  and  cotton  with, 

100-105. 
inks,  198. 

Animal  charcoal,  furnace  for  continuous  manu- 
facture of,  444,  445. 
charcoal,  to  detect  adulterations  of,  1. 
oils,  to  purify,  251,  252. 
skins,  dyeing  and  patterning,  219. 
skins,  preparation,  free  from  arsenic,  for 

preserving,  408. 
skins,  to  preserve,  161. 
Animal  waste,  manure  from,  lf>9. 
Animalizing  of  hemp  and  jute,  105. 
Animals,  stuffed,  to  preserve,  161. 
Anise-seed  cordial,  17. 
essence,  13. 
extract,  13. 
tincture,  13. 
Anisette  cordial,  17. 
French,  17. 
Holland,  18. 
Annotto  and  turmeric,  the  least  stable  yellow 

dyes,  3. 

Antarthritic  papers,  298. 

Anthoine  and  Genaud,  process  for  dynamite,  29. 
Antifriction  brasses,  7. 
Antiphosphorus  matches,  237. 
Antique  green,  44. 
Antiscorbutic  sweetmeat,  83. 
Antiseptic  agents,  effective  power  of  different, 

4(17. 

and  preservative  agents,  405-408. 
Antiseptics,  new,  406,  407. 
Ants,  to  drive  from  closets,  etc.,  162. 
Apcenite,  Ransome's  patent,  50,  51. 
Apparatine  sizing,  327. 
Apparatus  for  purifying  water,  72. 

for  testing  percentage  of  nicotine  in  to- 
bacco, 74. 
Appert's  method  of  blowing  glass  by  means 

of  compressed  air,  426-430. 
Apple  champagne,  158, 
ratafia,  26. 
wine,  158. 


Aqua  Bianca,  18. 

marine,  formula  for,  11. 

reale,  18. 

Turco  liqueur,  18. 
Aquaria,  cement  for,  64. 
Armenian  glue,  66. 
Aromatic  balsam,  295,  296. 

cordial,  18. 

tincture,  13. 
Arsenical  enamel,  144. 
Artificial  alizarine,  186. 

building  stone,  49. 

butter,  130-133. 

butter,  to  distinguish  from  genuine,  3, 

chalk,  174. 

cognac,  227. 

ebony,  177. 

eyes,  manufacture  of,  408,  409. 

flowers,  mass  for,  157. 

flowers,  stains  for  paper  for,  279. 

fruits,  mass  for,  157. 

gems,  minerals  for  coloring,  12. 

gems,  pearls,  and  Turkish  beads,  9-13. 

gems,  Wagner's  formula  for,  12. 

grindstones,  51. 

ivory,  43,  416. 

ivory  for  photographic  purposes,  43. 

ivory,  new,  43. 

leather,  174. 

marble,  51. 

millstones,  51. 

pearls,  Geissler's  process,  12. 

sandstone  for  filtering,  71. 

sharpening  stone  for  pencils,  177. 

whalebone,  178. 

wines,  230,  231. 

wood  for  ornaments,  93. 

wool,  175. 

yeast,  401,  402. 
Artists'  colors,  271,  272. 
Asbestos  and  its  uses,  409. 

and  rubber  packing,  62. 

industry  in  England,  409. 
Ash  and  blood  cement,  65. 
Asiatic  dentifrice,  94. 
Asphaltum,  adulteration  of,  2. 

for  paving,  53. 

Lyon's,  54. 

pitch,  lampblack  from,  371,  372. 
Asthma  and  colds,  balsam  for,  294. 
Astronomical  instruments,  lubricating  oil  for, 

234. 

Atmography,  87. 
Atmosphere,   window    panes   to  indicate   the 

moisture  of,  447. 

Aubriat's  process  of  decorating  glass,  92. 
Augender's  white  powder,  30. 
Autogenous  soldering,  337. 
Autographic  ink,  192. 

method  of  printing,  86. 
Automatic  gas-lighter,  173. 
Aventurine  glass,  144. 
Axle  boxes,  Fenton's  alloy  for,  7. 
Axles,  lubricants  for,  232,  233. 


Backing  glasj  signs  with  shades,  pearl  inser- 
tions, and  with  tinfoil,  148. 

Bacteria,  to  produce  vinegar  with,  358-360. 

Baeder,  Adamson  &  Co.'s  process  of  extracting 
castor  oil,  247. 


INDEX. 


463 


Bags,  to  water-proof,'  385,  386. 
Baking  powders,  JS5,  Sti. 

Ballatschano  and  Trenck's  new  tanning  pro- 
cess, 214. 

Balling's    method  of  preparing  caustic  soda- 
lye,  335. 

Bnlloon  varnish,  207,  208. 
Balls,  billiard,  composition  for,  62. 
Balm  of  Gilead,  294. 
Balsam,  aromatic,  2^5,  290. 

for  colds  and  asthma,  294. 

for  sprains,  296. 

for  wounds,  etc.,  167,  1G8,  296. 

fumigating,  293. 
Bandage,  plastic,  297. 
Bandoline,  receipts  for,  P5,  86. 
Barbadoes  essence,  13. 

ratafia,  25,  26. 
Barenburg  snuff,  353. 
Barium,  sulphate  of,  for  sizing,  327. 
Barff  's  preserving  compound,  405,  406. 
Barley,  germinating  the,  for  brewing,  221. 

kiln-drying  for  brewing,  221. 

steeping  the,  for  brewing,  221. 
Barrels  and  wooden  articles,  to  preserve  by 
use  of  water-glass,  382. 

leaky,  cement  for,  66. 

new  glaze  for,  223,  396,  397. 

to  cleanse,  76. 

Baths,  coppering,  for  iron  and  steel  articles, 
115. 

for  coating  wire,  114. 

for  nickelling  iron,  steel,  brass,  copp'  r,  tin, 
Britannia  metal,  lead,  zinc,  and  tinned 
sheet  metal,  109-111. 

for  photographic  purposes,  300,  301. 

nickel,  109. 
Batiste,  to  wash,  363. 
Baudet's  preventive  of  incrustations,  40. 
Beads,  Turkish,  9-12. 

Turkish,  formula  for,  12. 

Becker,    Delivaire   &  Co.'s  process  of  water- 
proofing fabrics,  385. 
Bed-bugs,  to  destroy,  162. 
Beef's  gall,   as   a   varnish  for  oil  paintings, 

259. 
Beef,  to  smoke,  315. 

tea,  to  prepare,  165,  166. 
Beer,  adulterations  in,  223-226. 

brewing,  221-226. 

cooling,  222. 

flaxseed  pulp  for  clarifying,  222,  223. 

ginger,  160. 

malt,  295. 

root,  160. 

spruce,  160. 

tests  for,  223-226. 

to  clarify,  222,  223. 

yeast,  to  prepare  pressed  yeast  from,  402. 
Beeswax,  to  bleach,  387. 
Belladonna  ointment,  166. 
Bell  metal,  best  quality,  8. 
Bells,  alloy  for,  5. 

American  sleigh,  5. 

and  gongs,  metal  for,  8. 

metal  for  large  and  small,  8. 
Belmontine  and  Sherwood  oils,  254. 
Belt  grease,  435. 
Belts,  caoutchouc  lubricant  for,  436. 

leather,  cements  for,  64. 

lubricant  for,  233. 


Bending  of  glass  tubes,  146. 
Bengal  lights,  124. 

Benzine,    in   the   extraction   of  fat   of   bones, 
250. 

substitute  for,  in  cleansing  gloves,  etc., 
254. 

test  of,  254,  255. 
Benzole,  test  of,  254,  255. 
Bergamot  essence,  13. 

snuff,  353. 
Berlin  bitters,  18. 
Beryl,  formula  for,  11. 
Bessemer  steel,  to  silver,  112. 
Betton's  cattle  liniment,  167. 
Bianca,  aqua, 18. 
Billiard  balls,  composition  for,  62. 
Birch  wine,  158. 
Birdlime,  description  of,  156. 
Bird  of  Paradise  plumes,  118. 
Biscuit,  meat,  130. 
Bismuth  and  platinum  alloy,  4. 

lustre,  422. 

solder,  337. 

to  silver  wooden  figures  with,  91. 
Bisulphide  of  carbon  in  extracting  oils,  247. 

of  carbon,  to  purify,  77. 

of  carbon,  use  of  in  determining  oils   in 

seeds,  1. 
Bitter  almond  essence,  13. 

almond  soap,  331. 

elixir,  294. 

rossoli,  18. 
Bitters,  Berlin,  18. 

coloring  substances  for,  12,  13. 

cordials,  elixirs,  liqueurs,  ratafias,  and 
essences  ;  extracts,  tinctures,  and  waters 
used  in  their  manufacture,  and  the  man- 
ner of  coloring  them,  12-27. 

English,  22. 

Greek,  22. 

Grime wald,  extract  for,  14. 

Hamburgh,  22. 

Spanish,  24. 

Stettin,  24. 

stomach,  24,  25. 

Thiem's,  25. 

Vienna,  25. 

Vienna  stomach,  25. 
Bitumen  mortar,  53. 

Black  and  colored  drawings  upon  ivory,  42. 
Blackboards,  artificial  slating  for,  177. 

coating  for,  266. 
Blackberry  wine,  158. 
Black  bronze,  46. 

bronze  on  brass,  46. 

colors,  test  for,  3. 

crayons,  79. 

gloss  for  leather,  215. 

ground  for  lacquering,  392. 

mustard  seed,  yield  of,  in  oil,  2. 

pigments,  various  kinds  of,  266,  267. 

polish  on  iron  and  steel,  210. 

varnishes,  208. 

Blacking,  rlew  receipts  for,  438,  439. 
Blacksmiths'  pitch  from  coal  tar,  257. 
Blasting  cartridges,  424. 

compound,  Faure  &  French's,  32. 

compound  from  potato-starch,  31. 

compound  of  honey  and  glycerine,  32. 

compounds  by  nitrating  crude-tar  oils,  33, 


4G4 


INDEX. 


Blasting  compounds,  blasting  powder,  dyna- 
mite, gun-cotton,  gunpowder,  nitro- 
glycerine, fulminates,  etc.,  27-34. 

compounds,  new,  32,  33. 

compounds,     nitro-glycerinc,     fulminates, 
etc.,  27-34. 

paper,  424. 

powder,  by  Martinsen,  32. 

powder,  Green's,  31. 

powder,  new,  425. 

powder,  Trets'.  30. 

under  water  with  compressed  gun-cotton, 

424,  425. 

Bleach  and  harden  tallow,  to,  37. 
Bleaching,  34-39,  409,  410. 

bones  and  ivory,  41. 

bones  for  turners'  use,  Hedinger's  method, 
40. 

bristles,  37. 

copper  plate  engravings,  37. 

cotton,  Frohnheiser's  method,  34. 

cotton  goods  with  woven  borders,  34. 

cotton  piece  goods,  34. 

David's  new  process  for,  38,  39. 

ivory  articles,  43. 

ivory  turned  yellow,  40. 

muslin,  34. 

novelties  in,  410. 

of  bone  fat,  447. 

of  clothes  which  have  turned  yellow,  366. 

of  oils  and  fats,  447,  448. 

of  paraffine  and  similar  substances  for  the 
manufacture  of  candles,  447. 

of  silk,  36. 

of  sponges,  37. 

straw,  455. 

shellac,  37,  38. 

stained  marble,  39. 

tallow,  448,  449. 

willow-ware,  458. 

without  chlorine,  409,  410. 

wool  without  sulphur,  36. 

with  water-glass,  379,  3SO. 

yarns  and  fabrics,  410. 
Blistering  ointment,  294. 
Blood  albumen,  to  prepare,  324,  325. 

and  ash  cement,  65. 

from   meat  cattle,  to  prepare    as  a  food, 
312. 

manure  powder  from,  169. 
Blotters,  porous  substitute  for,  178. 
Blue  bronze,  46. 

chalks,  79. 

dyes,  boiled  with  hydrochloric  acid,  3. 

dyes,  effect  on  alcohol,  3. 

pigments,  267. 

prints,  87. 

stamp  color,  80. 

washing,  manufacture  of,  368-370. 
Bobbinet,  size  for,  325. 
Boegel's  quick  process  of  tanning,  216. 
Bohemian  crystal  and  other  glasses,  142,  143. 
Boiler  for  glue,  150. 

incrustations,  39,  40. 
Boilers,  paper  for  covering,  455.        , 
Bolts,  screw,  zincing  of,  443,  444. 
Bone  and  ivory,  cement  for,  05. 

and  ivory  dyeing.  41. 

and  ivory  glue  for,  66. 

fat,  bleaching  of,  447. 

glass,  144. 


Bone  glue,  154. 

horn,  and  ivory,  to  bleach  and  dye  them, 
and  make  imitations  and  compositions, 
40-44. 
Bones  and  ivory,  bleaching,  41. 

fat  of,  to  bleach  and  purify,  250. 

receipts  for  coloring,  41,  42. 
Bon-bons,  carrot,  81. 

cream,  81. 

malt,  81. 

of  caramel  sugar  with  soft  filling,  to  pre- 
pare, 81. 

pectoral,  81. 

raspberry,  81. 

Bonnet-frames,  size  for,  32R,  327. 
Bookbinders'  lacquer,  210,  412. 
Bookbinding,  gilding  and   ornamenting,  410- 

412. 
Book  covers,  improvement  in  the  manufacture 

of,  412. 
Books,  glue  for,  154. 

to  remove  stains  from,  77. 

Boots  and  shoes,  French  process   of  water- 
proofing, 385. 

to  make  water-proof,  322. 

to  prevent  squeaking  in,  322. 
Bordeaux  wines,  230. 
Borlmetto's  gunpowder,  31. 
Boro-glyceride,  405,  406. 

Boro-glycerine,  for    preserving    organic    sub- 
stances, 310. 
Boro-tartrate     for      preserving     meat,     etc., 

310. 

Biittger,  process  for  nitro-glycerine,  29. 
Biittger's  process  of  making  petroleum  clear  as 
water  without  distilling,  252. 

water-glass  and  lime  cement,  382. 
Bottle-glass,  142,  143. 
Bottles,  manufacture  of,  from  paper,  455. 

transparent  lacquer  for  closing,  21 J. 
Bouilhet  and  (Jhristofle,  recipe  for  nickel  alloy, 

5. 

Bouquets,  284. 
Bouquet  soap,  331. 
Brass,  bath  for  nickelling,  K>9. 

black  bronze  on,  46. 

coatings,  salts  for,  114. 

cold  black  stain  for,  413. 

dead  black  bronze  on,  48. 

fire-proof  bronze  on,  45. 

for  turned  articles,  7. 

gold  and  orange  stain  for,  414. 

hard  solder,  337. 

malleable,  receipt  for,  241. 

phosphorizing,  442,  443. 

steel-blue  bronze  on,  46. 

to  cleanse,  415. 

to  coat  wire  with,  114. 

very  tenacious,  241. 

with  zinc  and  copper,  7. 
Brasses,  anti-friction,  7. 

table  of  metal  for,  406. 
Bread  for  horse-feed,  130. 
Breslau  bitter  cordial,  18,  19. 
Brewing  beer,  221-226. 

improved  processes  of,  222. 
Brewers'  pitch,  223. 
Brianchon's   process   of  painting  glass,   etc., 

137. 

Brick  and  stone  walls,  to  protect  from  moist- 
ure, 164. 


INDEX. 


465 


Brick  masonry    made  impervious   to  water, 
55. 

work,  cheap  paint  for,  263,  264. 
Bricks,  enamelled,  415,  416. 

red  wash  for,  264. 

size  and  weight  of,  55. 
Bridges,  iron,  to  protect  from  rust,  243. 
Bright  lustre,  91. 
Brise-rocs,  by  Robaudi,  30. 
Bristles,  to  bleach, '37. 

substitute  for,  174. 
Britannia  metal,  bath  for  nickelling,  109. 

metal,  Koller's  preparation  of,  3. 

metal,  solder  for,  339. 
Brocade,  to  wash,  362. 
Bronze  alloy,  platinum,  5. 

aluminium,  404. 

at  time  of  Louis  XIV.,  7. 

black,  46. 

blue,  46. 

brown,  46. 

Chinese,  44. 

color  for  direct  printing  upon  paper,  oil- 
cloth, etc.,  190,  191. 

colors,  substitute  for  gum-Arabic  in  mak- 
ing, 48. 

fire-proof,  45. 

for  cocks,  8. 

for  medals,  8. 

for  objects  of  art,  7. 

for  ornaments,  8. 

for  plaster  of  Paris  figures,  45. 

for  rivets,  8. 

gold,  on  iron,  46. 

green,  for  brass,  44. 

lacquer,  210. 

manganese,  6,  405. 

monuments,  48,  49. 

phosphor,  404, 405. 

phosphorizing,  442,  443. 

powder,  copper  colored,  45. 

powders,  45. 

red,  for  turned  articles,  8. 

statuary,  8. 

surface  on   iron,   process    for   producing, 

Walker's,  46. 
Bronzes,  aluminium,  4. 

Chinese  and  Japanese,  7. 

commercial,  45. 

for  castings,  8. 
Bronzing  and  coloring  of  metals,  44-49. 

copper,  413. 

gilding,  silvering,  412-415. 

Gourlier's  salt  mixtures  for,  114. 

green,  414. 

in  Paris  mint,  44. 

liquids,  Graham's,  47,  48. 

on  iron,  new  process  of,  414. 

willow-ware,  460. 
Brown  bronze,  46. 

crayons,  79. 

dyes,  test  for,  3. 
Brunswick  black,  267. 
Brush,  for  marking  boxes,  201. 
Brushes,  paint,  260. 

paint,  to  cleanse,  76. 
Buck-horn  jelly,  85. 
Buffalo-skin,  as  substitute  for  horn,  178. 
Building  materials,  415,  416. 
30 


Building  materials,  artificial  stones,  mortars, 
etc.,  49-55. 

materials,  fire-resisting  properties  of,  415. 

stone,  artificial,  49. 

stones,  51. 

Burgundy  wines,  230. 

Busks  for  corsets,  artificial  whalebone  for,  178. 
Busts,  composition  for,  62. 

marble,  to  cleanse,  78. 
Butcher's  fire-extinguishing  powder,  124. 
Butter,  artificial,  130-133. 

rancid,  to  purify,  168. 

to  distinguish  genuine  from  artificial,  3. 

to  pack  for  ocean  transportation,  312. 

to  preserve,  312. 

Vienna,  133. 
Buttons,  compound  for,  43. 

from  pulverized  leather,  176. 

from  waste  of  horn,  44. 

to  color  with  aniline  colors,  184, 

to  dye,  183,  184. 

Caf(§,  crgme  du,  83. 
Calamus  liqueur,  19. 

tincture,  14. 
Calcium  acetate,  187. 

and  sodium  glyceroborates,  406,  407. 

chloride,  concentration   of  vinegar  with, 
358. 

silicate,  use  of  in  fixing  mordants  on  cot- 
ton prints,  linens,  etc.,  379. 
Calf-kid,  manufacture  of  in  Philadelphia.  214, 

215. 
Calf  leather,  with  a  white  flesh-side,  smooth, 

217. 

Calfskin,  gilding  on,  412. 
Callograph,  Jacobsen's,  88. 
Cameos,  how  to  produce,  202. 
Camphor  and  sulphur  soap,  331. 

ice,  294. 

liniments,  167. 

powdered,  298. 

soap,  331. 
Canaster  tobacco,  350. 
Candied  cherries,  83,  84. 

fruits,  84. 

oranges,  84. 
Candle  materials,  coloring,  172. 
Candles,  bleaching  of  paraffine   and  similar 
substances  for  manufacture  of,  447. 

colored  firework,  124. 

"Melanyl,"171. 

stearine,  cheap  mode  of  making,  173. 

tallow,   Junemann's  process   of  making, 
172, 173. 

tallow,  to  coat  with  a  hard  substance,  171, 
172. 

wax,  388. 

wick-consuming,  172, 173. 

wicks  for,  171. 

Cane-heads,  composition  for,  183. 
Canes,  walking,  stain  for,  392. 
^-ned  vegetables,  new  process  of  greening, 

Cantharides,  ointment,  166. 

Canvas,  cordage,  etc.,  to  preserve,  169. 

paint  for,  263. 
Caoutchouc  blackings,  320. 

cements,  61. 

cement,  transparent,  61. 


466 


INDEX. 


Caoutchouc    composition  for  sharpening  and 
polishing  knives,  60. 

dried,  to  remove  stickiness  from,  60. 

how  to  color  green  or  black,  60. 

impregnating  cloth  with,  385. 

lubricant,  232. 

lubricant  for  driving-belts,  436. 

metallized,  60. 

new  substitute  for,  417,  418. 

oil,  320. 

solutions  for  photographers,  299. 

substitute  for,  61,  62,  182. 

vulcanized  cement  for,  60. 

vulcanized,  utilization  of  waste  of,  60. 
Capsules,  gelatine,  296. 
Capuchin  cordial,  19. 

Caramel  sugar  bon-bons  with  soft  filling,  81. 
Caraway  essence,  14. 
Carboazotine,  29,  30. 
Carbolic  acid  paper,  275. 

preparation  of  lustre-colors  with,  422. 
Carbon,  bisulphide  of,  to  purify,  77. 

bisulphide  of,  used  in  determining  oils  in 
seeds,  1. 

Xncils,  manufacture  of,  430,  431. 
non,  extract,  14. 
Cardinal  de  Rome,  19. 

water,  19. 

Carding  engines,  oil  for,  234. 
Cards,  enamel  for,  421. 

to  gild  and  silver,  91. 
Carlsbad  water,  artificial,  294. 
Carminative  cordial,  19. 
Carmine  and  lake  pigments,  268. 

indigo,  184, 185. 

indigo,  to  make,  269. 
Carpets,  Clark's  wash  for,  366. 
Carriage  lacquers,  214. 
Carrot  bon-bons,  81. 
Cartridges,  blasting,  424. 

for  extinguishing  fire,  124. 

Cartridge   shells    of  easily    combustible    sub- 
stances, 33. 

Cartwright's  tooth  powder,  94. 
Carved  work,  to  polish,  209,  210. 
Case-hardening  compound,  240. 
Caseine  cements,  65. 
Cast-iron,  substitute  for,  176. 

tinning  of,  113,  114. 

to  enamel,  115, 116. 

to  harden,  238. 

welding  to  steel,  238. 
Cast-steel,  to  restore  burnt,  238. 
Castings,  cement  for  repairing,  64. 

copper,  dense  and  flexible,  242. 

mitis,  441. 

to  obtain  smooth,  240. 

wro ught-iron,  441. 

Casts,  plaster,  which  can  be  washed,  308-310. 
Castor  oil,  to  make,  247. 

Cattle  feed,  from  alcohol  and    yeast  waste, 
313. 

feed,  to  prepare,  312. 

liniment,  167. 
Caustic,  lunar,  to  prepare,  73. 

potash;  to  purify  water  with,  72. 

soda-lye,  to  prepare,  335. 

soda  to  purify  water,  72. 
Cedar  wood,  imitation  of,  396. 
Ceilings,  plaster  for,  416. 
Celery  ratafia,  27. 


Celluloid,  caoutchouc,  gutta-percha,and  similar 
compositions,  58-63. 

how  to  work  and  treat,  59. 

imitations,  substitutes,  etc.,  416-418. 

new,  59. 

preparation  of,  58. 

preparation  of,  Magnus  &  Co.'s  formula 
for,  58. 

printing  plates,  416,  417. 

substitute  for,  43. 
Cellulose  dynamite,  29. 
Cement,  artificial,  Schottler's,  52. 

blood  and  ash,  65. 

for  glass  retorts,  63. 

Chinese  blood,  65. 

Davy's  universal,  64. 

fire  and  water-proof,  63. 

for  aquaria,  64. 

for  fastening  iron  in  stone,  64. 

for  fastening  rubber  upon  metal,  64. 

for  filling  teeth,  68,  69. 

for  horses'  hoofs,  61. 

for  injured  trees,  69. 

for  iron  stoves,  66. 

for  ivory  and  bone,  65. 

for  leaky  barrels,  66. 

for  leather,  65. 

for  leather  belts,  64. 

for  meerschaum,  65. 

for  mending  enamelled  dial-plates,  421. 

for  petroleum  lamps,  65. 

for  porcelain,  63. 

for  repairing  defective  castings,  64. 

for  repairing  sandstone,  64. 

for  rubber  combs,  61. 

for  rubber  shoes  and  boots,  61. 

for  steam-pipes,  63. 

for  stone  troughs,  64. 

for  tortoise  shell,  65. 

for  vulcanized  caoutchouc,  60. 

for  wooden  vats,  64. 

from  blast-furnace  slag,  51,  52. 

glycerine,  65. 

gutta-percha  and  linseed  oil,  61. 

hard  and  durable,  52. 

hydraulic  water-glass,  382. 

iron  to  iron,  63. 

jewellers',  66. 

mastic,  63. 

substitute  for,  176. 

to  harden,  52. 

water-glass,  for  glass  and  porcelain,  382. 

water-glass,  with  zinc  and  pyrolusite,  382. 

white,  52. 

work,  418. 

work,  weather-proof,  418. 

Cementing  cracked  bottles  with  water-glass, 
382. 

of  metals,  116, 117. 
Cements,  caoutchouc,  61. 

colors,    enamels,  glue,   varnishes,    water- 
proofing substances,  etc.,  421-423. 

for  fastening    metal    letters    upon   glass, 
marble,  etc.,  64. 

gutta-percha,  61. 

pastes,  and  putties,  63-69. 

water-glass,  381,  382. 

water-glass    and    caseine,  for    glass    and 
porcelain,  382. 

water-glass  and  lime,  382. 
Cerate,  lead,  167. 


INDEX. 


46f 


Chalk,  artificial,  174. 

precipitated,    preparation    of,     for   tooth 
'      powder,  446. 
Chalks,  blue,  79. 
Chamois  skins,  dyeing,  217. 
Champagne  from  fruits  and  berries,  157,  158. 

powder,  157. 

wines,  230. 

Champagnes,  artificial,  230,  231. 
Charcoal,  animal,  furnace  for  continuous  manu- 
facture of,  444, 445. 

animal,  to  detect  adulterations  in,  1. 

tooth  powder,  95. 
Chartreuse,  19. 
Cheese,  English  Stilton,  129. 
Cheltenham  salts,  294. 

Chemical     and     techno-chemical    expedients, 
preparations,  70-75. 

bronze,  Walker's,  46. 

test  of  written  documents,  201. 
Cherries,  candied,  83,  84. 
Cherry  cordial,  19,  20. 

extract,  14. 

liqueur,  19. 

marmalade,  84,  85 

sweetmeat,  82. 

water,  14. 

wine,  159. 

Chestnuts,  coated,  83. 
Chicken  feathers,  utilization  of,  166. 
Chilblains,  remedy  for,  160. 
Children,  milk  foods  for,  132. 
Chinese  blood  cement,  65. 

bronze,  44. 

bronze,  imitations  of,  7. 

bronzes,  7. 

drying  oil,  248. 

liqueur,  26. 

lozenges,  84. 

silver  alloy,  7. 

silver,  preferable  to  pure  or  German  silver 
for  utensils,  7. 

varnish,  208. 

Chip-hats,  to  wash,  366,  367. 
Christofle    and    Bouilhet,    recipe    for    nickel 

alloys,  5. 
Chlorine,  fumigating  with,  293. 

gas,  to  prepare,  72. 
Chloride  of  gold,  to  prepare,  73. 

of  silver  and  gelatine  emulsion,  298. 

of  sulphur  ointment,  166. 

of  zinc,  to  prepare,  72. 
Chocolade,  creme  du,  S3. 
Chocolate  and  cocoa,  55-58. 
•     essence,  14. 

hygienic,  57. 

Iceland  moss,  57. 

iron,  57. 

liqueur,  20. 

lozenges,  57. 

machines  for  manufacture  of,  55,  66. 

Milan,  57. 

ordinary,  56. 

Paris,  57. 

Spanish  spiced,  57. 

spiced,  56,  57. 

sweetmeat,  81. 

Vienna,  57. 

white,  58. 

with  carbonate  of  iron,  57. 

with  meat  extract,  57. 


Chrome-red,  269. 

yellow,  269,  270. 
Chromium  glue,  67. 
Chrysolite,  formula  for,  11. 
Chrysoprase,  dark,  formula  for,  10. 

formula  for,  10,  11. 

light,  formula  for,  11. 
Chrysorine,  composition  and  use  of,  3. 
Cider,  158. 
Cigarette  paper,  274. 
Cigars,  perfumes  for,  354. 
Cinnabar,  imitation  of,  421,  422. 
Cinnamon  essence,  14. 

sweetmeat,  82. 
Circassian  tooth  powder,  95. 
Citrate  of  magnesium,  296. 
Citronat  ratafia,  26. 
Citronelle,  20. 
Claret  ratafia,  26. 
Clarifying  of  beer,  222,  223. 

of  varnishes  and  liquids,  205. 

olive  oil,  449. 

slime  in  sugar  houses,  white  or  black  pig- 
ment from,  376. 

the  glue,  151. 
Clay  plaster,  53. 
Clay,  substitute  for,  176. 
Cleaning  compound  for  cloth,  419. 

glass,  silverware,  and  marble,  420,  421. 

powder  for  show  windows,  419. 

smoky  walls,  421. 

Cleansing  and  washing  clothes  with  the  Pana- 
ma essence,  368. 

brass,  415. 

cotton  and  other  vegetable  fibres,  34. 

fluid  for  tissues,  368. 

mixture  for  glass  plates,  298,  299. 

oil  paintings,  257. 

polishing,  and  renovating  agents,   76-78, 
419-421. 

rags  for  polishing  metal,  419. 

silk,  cloth,  and  hats,  76. 

silver  dial  plates,  42. 

wash  leather,  419. 

woollen  tissues,  35,  36. 
Cloth  as  a  substitute  for  leather,  383. 

cleaning  compound,  419. 

down,  345. 

impregnating  with  caoutchouc,  385. 

Johnson's  varnish  for  water-proofing,  423. 

oil,  345,  346. 

water  proof,  which  is  not  impervious  to  the 

air,  383. 
Cloths,  red,  cleansing  salt  for,  365. 

scouring  soap  for,  76. 
Clove  essence,  14. 
Coach  varnishing,  212-214. 
Coal  and  rosin,  fuel  from,  137. 
Coal  ashes  and  blood,  black  pigment  from,  267. 
Coal  ashes,  manure  from,  169. 
Coal  dust  fuel,  137. 

Coal-tar,  ammoniacal  liquor  from,  utilization 
of,  373,  374. 

blacksmiths'  pitch  from,  257. 

for  printing  ink,  190. 

lampblack  from  the  resinous  sodic  residues 
of,  372. 

manures  from  the  residues  of,  373. 

naphtha,  test  of,  254,  255. 

oil,  process  of  producing  in  England,  266, 
257. 


468 


INDEX. 


Coal-tar  oils,  shoemakers'  wax  from,  257. 

oil,  to  deodorize,  252. 

varnish  oil,  190,  256. 

varnish  oil,  lubricating  oils  from,  234. 

varnish  oil,  varnishes  with,  212. 

waste,  lampblack  from,  370-372. 
Coated  chestnuts,  83. 

filberts,  83. 

orange  blossoms,  84. 
Cobalt,  111. 

blue  for  crayons,  79. 

electroplating  metal  with,  111. 
Cochineal  syrup,  136. 
Cockroaches,  to  destroy,  162. 
Cocks,  bronze  for,  8. 
Cocoa  and  chocolate,  65-58. 
Cocoanut  oil  and  molasses  soap,  329,  330. 

oil  soap,  328,  329. 
Cocoa  ratafia,  26. 
Cod-liver-oil  and  iodide  of  iron,  294,  295. 

to  disguise  the  taste  of,  166,  296. 
Coffee  and  tea  trays,  to  clean,  78. 

essence,  14. 

malt  as  a  substitute  for,  167. 

substitute  for,  169. 

to  regain  the  volatile  products  developed  in 


roasting,  377,  378. 
Cognac,  artificial,  227. 


essence,  14. 

manufacture  of,  227. 
Coignet's  artificial  stone,  49. 
Coin  metal,  8. 
Coke  ovens,  to  preserve  the  ammonia,  tar,  and 

other  products  from,  374,  376. 
Cold  tinning,  114. 

water  soap,  329. 

Colds  and  asthma,  balsam  for,  294. 
Collodion  emulsion,  306. 

for  plant  slips,  165. 

glycerine,  295. 

styptic,  295. 

varnish  for  water-proofing  fabrics,  prepa- 

ration of,  383. 
Cologne  waters,  282. 
Colombat  elixir,  17. 

Colored  chalks  (crayons),  pencils,  and  inks  for 
marking  linen,  etc.,  78-80. 

designs  upon  glass,  145. 

enamels,  117. 

fluids  for  paper  and  foils,  202. 

glass,  compositions  for,  144,  145. 

indelible  inks,  80. 

sands,  201. 
Coloring  materials  for  wood,  391,  392. 

metals,  46,  47. 

substances  for  cordials,  bitters,  etc.,  12, 

13. 

Colorless  varnish,  210. 
Colors,  artists',  271,  272. 

enamels,  cements,  glue,  varnishes,  water- 
proofing substances,  etc.,  421-423. 

fireproof,  454. 

for  painting,  receipts  for,  262,  263. 

fusible,  for  porcelain  painting,  137-141. 

grinding  of,  260. 

lustre,  preparation  of  with  carbolic  acid, 
422. 

new,  on  wood,  398,  399. 

printing,  German  patent,  190. 

printing  in,  86,  87. 

sympathetic,  273. 


Colors,  water,  272,  273. 

Combs,  horn,  manufacture  of,  435. 

horn,  to  make  elastic,  446. 
Combustion,  spontaneous,   experiments  with 

oils  in  regard  to,  438. 
Commercial  bronzes,  46. 
Composition  for  billiard  balls,  62. 

for  ornaments,  etc.,  62. 

for  picture  frames,  62. 

for  razor  strops,  63. 

for  rollers,  62. 
Compound  for  buttons,  dice,  etc.,  43. 

water-glass,  preparations  of,  378,  379. 
Compressed  yeast,  to  make,  227-229. 
Concrete  marble,  54. 
Condensed  milks,  132. 
Conductors,  electrical,  insulating  material  for. 

417. 

Confectionery,  80-86. 
Cooking  utensils,  tinning  of,  114. 
Copal  varnish,  to  make,  202-205,  208. 

varnishes  with  coal-tar  varnish  oils,  212. 
Copper  alloys,  7,  8. 

as  a  solder  for  iron,  337. 

bath  for  nickelling,  109. 

bronzing  on,  413. 

castings,  dense  and  flexible,  242. 

cold  silvering  of,  112,  113. 

fireproof  bronze  on,  45. 

gilding  of,  by  boiling,  111. 

plate  engravings,  to  bleach,  37. 

platinum  and  palladium  alloy,  403. 

steel,  receipt  for,  242. 

sulphate  of,  to  prepare,  74. 

to  give  it  a  durable  lustre,  46. 

to  weld,  241. 

vessels,  to  enamel,  116. 
Coppering  bath  for  iron  or  steel  articles,  115. 

galvanic,  Gourlier's  salt  mixture  for,  114. 
Copying,  423. 

and  printing,  86-89. 

drawings  in  black  lines  on  white  ground, 

inks]  193,  196-198. 

paper,  that  can  be  washed,  276. 

polygraphic  method  of,  87,  88. 
Corals,  to  dye  imitations  of,  105. 
Cordage,  to  preserve,  169. 
Cordial,  Angelica,  Ib. 

anisette,  17. 

anise  seed,  17. 

aromatic,  18. 

Breslau  bitter,  18, 19. 

capuchin,  19. 

carminative,  19. 

cherry,  19,  20. 

cumin,  20. 

kiimmel,  20. 

orange-peel,  23. 

peach,  23. 

peppermint,  23. 

quince,  23. 

quittico,  23. 

rosemary,  23,  24. 

Swiss,  25. 

Tivoli,  25. 

vanilla,  25. 

wormwood,  25. 
Cordials,  bitters,  liqueurs,  and  ratafias,  17-27. 

coloring  substances  for,  12,  13. 

liqueurs,  etc.,  mode  of  coloring,  12. 


INDEX. 


Cordova  blacking,  320. 
Cork,  gas  from,  170. 

paper,  275. 

stone,  415. 

waste,  utilization  of  in  the  manufacture  of. 

vinegar,  358. 
Corks,  rubber,  to  cut  and  pierce,  164. 

rubber,  to  restore,  377. 
Corn  oil  from  corn  ma<h,  251. 
Corns,  remedy  for,  160. 
Corset  busks,  artificial  whalebone  for,  178. 
Cosmetic  and  medicated  waters,  290-292. 

powders,  rouges,  292. 
Cosmoline,  to  prepare,  248,  249. 
Cotton  and  linen  goods,  finishing  of  by  water- 
glass,  380. 

and  muslin  prints,  to  wash  without  injury 
to  the  colors,  368. 

and  silk  goods,  soap  for  removing  stains 
from,  76. 

and  vegetable  fibres,  cleansing  of,  34. 

fabrics,  to  t;m,  220. 

goods  and  yarns,  20. 

goods,  sizing  for,  32'2,  323. 

goods  with  woven  borders,  to  bleach,  34. 
Cotton,  gun,  32. 
Cotton  piece  goods,  to  bleach,  34. 

prints,  dressing  for,  325,  326. 
Cotton-seed  hulls,  utilizing,  451. 

oil  in  olive  oil,  1. 

oil,  manufacture  of,  449,  450. 

oil,  production  of  soap  and  sebacic  acids 
from  crude,  451. 

oil,  refining,  251,  451. 

Cotton    tissues,   to   compress  and  give  more 
lustre  to,  345. 

to  bleach  as  it  comes  from  the  spinning- 
machine,  34. 

to  gild,  91,  92. 

wool,  and  silk,  to  dye  with  aniline  colors, 
100-105. 

yarns   and   tissues,  Banes'  and  Grisdale's 
method  for  bleaching,  34. 

yarn,  size  for,  325. 
Cowles'  electric  furnace,  440,  441. 
Crambambuli,  20. 
Cramer's  process  of  preparing  pressed  yeast 

from  beer  yeast,  402. 
Crape,  white  silk,  to  wash,  363. 
Crayons,  black,  79. 

brown,  79. 

crimson,  79. 

green,  79. 

materials,  how  to  select,  78,79. 

red,  79. 

white,  79. 

yellow,  79. 
Cream  bon-bons,  81. 

of  tartar,  to  prepare,  73. 

shaving,  446,  447. 

walnuts,  81. 
Creams,  soap,  332,  333. 
Creme  du  cafe,  83. 

du  chocolade,  83. 

Fondant,  85. 

ground  mass  for,  85. 
Creosote  ointment,  It56. 

to  prepare  from  wood-tar  oil,  255. 
Creuzburg's    process  of   making    water-glass 
paint  more  durable  than  oil  or  varnish, 
381. 


Crimson  crayons,  79. 
dye  starch,  365. 

Crock,  W.  G.,  process  for  detecting  artificial 
butter,  3. 

Crocus  vernus,  adulteration  of  saffron  with,  2. 

Crown  glass,  143. 

Cryolite  glass,  142. 

Crystal  glass,  142. 

Crystalline  coating  for  wood  or  paper,  421. 

Crystallized  indigo,  184. 

Cumin  cordial,  20. 
essence,  14. 
liqueur,  20. 

Cupro-ammonium  for  rendering  paper  and 
textile  fabrics  water-,  rot-,  and  insect- 
proof,  453,  454. 

Curafoa,  20. 
French,  20. 
Holland,  20. 

Currant  wine,  159. 

Currier's  black  gloss,  215. 

Cutlery,  fluid  for  hardening,  240. 

Cyanide  of  potassium,  from  nitrogeneous  or- 
ganic substances,  377. 

Cyanotype,  87. 

Cyclostyle,  the,  88,  89. 

Cypre,  eau  de,  21. 

D'Absynth  CitronnS,  eau,  21. 
D' Amour  parfait,  23. 
Damask,  genuine,  89. 

imitation  of,  89. 

silk,  to  wash,  362. 
Damaskeening  steel,  89. 

steel  with  gold  or  silver,  89. 
Damp  walls,  glue  for,  235. 

walls,  how  to  dry,  54. 

walls,  plaster  for,  53. 
Damson  wine,  159. 
Danzig  crambambuli,  20. 
Darcet's  metal,  337. 
Dauphin,  eau  de,  21. 

David's  new  process  for  bleaching,  38,  39. 
Davy's  universal  cement,  64. 
Dead  black  bronze  on  brass,  48. 
Dead  lustre,  91 . 
Debray  on  the    effect  of  iron  in  aluminium, 

Decoration,  ornamentation,  etc.,  89-94. 
Decorations,  to  make  incombustible,  124. 

wood-tar  for,  93. 
Denninger's  process  of  staining  wood  for  fine 

cabinet  work,  391. 
Density  of  alloys,  405. 
Dental  purposes,  alloys  for,  6. 
Dentifrice,  Asiatic,  94. 

Quillaya,  95. 

Dentifrices  and  mouth  washes,  94,  95. 
Depilation  of  hides,  215,  216. 
Deschamp's  tooth  powders,  94. 
Designs,  to  copy,  86, 
De  Soulages  and  Cahuc,  process  for   carboa- 

zotine,  29,  30. 

Detection  of  water  in  essential  oils,  449. 
Developer,  alkaline  gelatine,  298. 

for  photographic  dry  plates,  301. 

Sutton's  new,  306. 
Developers,   photographic,  for   hot  weather, 

306,  307. 
Dextrine  and  sugar  in  malt,  221. 

milk  adulterated  with,  2. 


470 


INDEX. 


Dextrine,  to  prepare,  325. 
Dextrose,  341,342. 

Dial-plates,  enamelled,  cement  for  mending, 
421. 

silvered,  to  cleanse,  421. 
Dials,  watch,  enamel  for,  117. 
Diamond  glue,  best  quality,  66,  67. 
Dice,  compound  for,  43. 
Dictamia,  composition  of,  129. 
Disinfectants,  163,  164. 
Dittmar's  dualin,  29. 
Documents,  chemical  test  of  written,  201. 

papers  for,  274. 
Dolls'  heads,  mass  for,  62,  63. 
Dominos,  compound  for,  43. 
Donault-Wieland's  flux,  10. 
Dougal's  powder  for  purifying  air  in  stables. 

168. 
Doumesnil's  process  of  platinizing  metals,  110, 

111. 

Down  cloth,  345. 

Drawing-paper  that  can  be  washed,  276. 
Drawings,  lacquer  for,  211. 

new  method  of  copying,  423,  424. 

to  copy,  86. 

to  copy  in  black  lines  on  white  ground,  87. 

to  duplicate,  86. 

to  make  black  and  colored  on  ivory,  42. 
Dressing  cotton  prints,  325,  326. 

for  dancing  shoes,  320. 

for  Panama  hats,  326. 

for  shoes  free  from  sulphuric  acid,  320. 
Dried  caoutchouc,  to  remove  stickiness  from, 

60. 
Drops,  peppermint,  84. 

punch,  84. 
Dryers  for  oil  colors  and  varnish,  266. 

receipts  for,  266. 
Drying  oil,  266. 

oil,  Chinese,  248. 

wood,  new  method  of,  397. 
Dry  pocket  paste,  68. 
Dualin,  Dittmar's,  29. 
Dupasquier's  process  of  preparing  bone  glue 

as  a  substitute  for  isinglass,  155,  156. 
Durability  of  mine  timbers,  395,  396. 
Durable  paste,  69. 
Dutch  Musino  snuff,  353. 
Dye,  new,  from  shoots  of  poplar  tree,  107. 

starch,  365. 

Dyeing  and    printing,    inspissation  for,    323, 
324. 


bone  and  ivory,  41 
Tur 
106,  107. 


cotton   yarn   Turkey  red  with  alizarine, 


leather,  217-221. 

naturally  white  skins,  220. 

rabbit  skins,  219. 

sheepskins,  219,  220. 

straw,  455,  456. 

woollen  and  cotton  goods  and  yarns,  silk, 
straw  hats,  felt  hats,  kid  gloves,  horse- 
hair, etc.,  etc.,  107. 

wool,  silk,  and  cotton  with  aniline  colors, 

100-105. 
Dyes  for  straws,  456. 

hair,  289,  290. 

testing  of,  for  adulteration,  3. 
Dynamite,  A.  Nobel's  process,  29. 

by  Anthoine  and  Genaud,  29. 

cellulose,  29. 


Dynamite,  frozen,  30. 
giant,  31. 
gun-cotton,    gunpowder,    nitroglycerine, 

fulminates,  etc.,  27-34. 
Norbin  and  Ohllson's  patent,  29. 
properties  of,  29. 
Sobrero's  process,  29. 

Earthenware,  fire  and  water-proof  cement  for, 

63. 

glazes  for,  146. 
to  give  it  a  marbled  or  granite  appearance, 

varnish  for,  208. 
Eau  Americaine,  20. 

D'Amour,  21. 

D'Absynth  Citronnfi,  21. 

D'Ardelle,  21. 

D'Argent,  21. 

d'Or,  21. 

d'Orient,  21. 

de  Cologne,  282. 

de  Cypre,  21. 

de  Dauphin,  21. 

de  Lavande  Ambra,  282. 

de  Napoleon,  21. 

de  Paradise,  22. 

de  Paris,  282. 

de  Sant6,  22. 

de  Sept  Graines,  22. 

des  Alpes,  282. 

des  Princesses,  22. 

precieuse,  22. 

royal,  22. 
Ebony,  artificial,  177. 

stains,  393. 
Edinburgh  ink,  196. 
Edison's  electric  pen,  88. 
Effervescing  vinegar,  361. 
Egg  syrup,  136. 
Eggs,  to  preserve,  312,  313. 

yelks  of  in  tawing,  to  preserve,  217. 
Elaeosaccharum,  80. 
Elaine  soap,  329. 
Elastic  lacquer,  211. 
Elderberry  ointment,  166. 

wine,  159. 

Elder  blossoms,  extract  of,  166. 
Electrical  conductors,  insulating  material  for, 

417. 
Electric  furnace,  Cowles',  440,  441. 

pen,  Edison's,  88. 
Electricity,  110. 
Electro-plating,  galvanpplasty,  gilding,  nick- 

elling,  silvering,  tinning,  etc.,  107-115. 
Elemi  ointment,  166. 
Elixir,  Abb6,  16. 

Angel,  17. 

Colombat,  17. 

de  St.  Aur,  17. 

des  Troubadours,  17. 

juniper,  17. 

Monpou,  17. 

of  life,  17. 

Tabourey,  17. 

vital,  17. 
Elixirs,  16,  17. 
Email  photographs,  300. 
Embossing,  preparation  of  surfaces  for,  345. 
Embroidered  fabrics  woven  with  gold,  to  wash, 
364. 


INDEX. 


471 


Embroidered  linen,  to  wash,  364. 

muslin,  to  wash,  364. 
Embroideries,  pearl,  to  wash.  366. 
Embroidery,  silver,  to  polish,  3G4. 
Emerald,  formula  for,  10. 

green  for  gems,  formula  of,  10. 
Emery  paper,  278,  279. 
Emulsion,  for  photographers,  298. 

sensitive  collodion,  306. 
Emulsions,  gelatine,  photographic,  300. 
Enamel,  arsenical,  144. 

for  fine  cards,  etc.,  421. 

for  sheet-iron,  116. 

for  watch  dials,  117. 

free  from  lead  and  metallic  oxides  for  iron 
and  sheet-iron,  and  utensils  manufact- 
ured from  them,  422. 

glass  for  iron,  118. 

opaque  white,  118. 

phosphorescent,  422. 

tin,  144. 
Enamelled  bricks,  415,  416. 

dial-plates,  cement  for  mending,  421. 

photographs,  300. 

Enamelling    and   cementing  of   metals,    etc.. 
116,  117. 

cast-iron  utensils,  115, 116. 

of  copper  Vessels,  116. 

of  iron,  116. 

of  pasteboard,  277. 
Enamels  and  enamelling,  115-118. 

colors,  cements,  glue,  varnishes,  water- 
proofing substances,  etc.,  421-423. 

colors  for,  117, 118. 

imitations  of,  17'.). 
English  bitters,  22. 

bitteis  essence,  14. 

bitters  ratafia,  26. 

copper  alloys,  7,  8. 

inks,  196. 

method  of  varnishing  coaches,  212-214. 

Stilton  cheese,  129. 
Engraving  on  glass,  145. 
Engravings,  to  copy,  86. 
Erasing  powder,  295. 
Esprit  de  Pachouli,  282. 

de  rose  triple,  282. 

de  toilette  Francaise,  282,  283. 
Essence,  ambergris,  13. 

angelica,  13. 

anise-seed,  13. 

Barbadoes,  13. 

bergamot,  13. 

bouquet,  283. 

chocolate,  14. 

cinnamon,  14. 

clove,  14. 

coffee,  14. 

cognac,  14. 

cumin  and  caraway,  14. 

de  Gpudron,  231. 

English  bitter,  14. 

extracts,  tinctures,  and  waters,  13-16. 

fennel,  14. 

gold  water,  14,  15. 

herb  cordial,  15. 

juniper  berry,  15. 

lavender,  15. 

lemon,  15. 

marjoram,  15. 

musk,  15. 


Essence,  nut,  15. 

nutmeg,  15. 

Panama,  for  washing,  368. 

Parfait  d' Amour,  15. 

peach,  15. 

peppermint,  16. 

quince,  16. 

rose,  16. 

rosemary,  16. 

sage,  16. 

Spanish  bitter,  16. 

vanilla,  16. 

wormwood,  16. 

Essential  oils,  detection  of  water  in,  449. 
Estragon  vinegar,  361. 
Etching  ground,   printing  ink  which  can  be 

ink  for  glass,  431. 

on  glass,  147. 
Ether,  acetic,  to  prepare,  358. 

naphtha,  170. 
Eugenie's  nosegay,  282. 
Expedients,  preparations,  70-75. 
Explosive  agents,  424-426. 

and  pyrotechnic  substances,  424. 

combination,  424.     . 

substances,  424. 

substances,   use  of  hyponitric   acid    for, 

425,  426. 

Exterminator,  moth  and  roach,  446. 
Extract,  anise-seed,  13. 

cardamon,  14. 

Koch's  herb,  23. 

mace,  13. 

of  elder  blossoms,  166. 

orange  blossom,  15. 

orange  peel,  15. 

raspberry,  16. 

soup,  129. 

strawberry,  16. 
Extracts,  283,  284. 

essences,  tinctures,  and  waters,  13-16. 

malt,  296. 
Eyes,  artificial,  manufacture  of,  408,  409. 

Fabrics,  colored,  to  give  a  lustre  to,  34f>. 

double,  water-proof  not   impermeable   to 

air,  385. 

linen,  hempen,  and  cotton,  to  tan,  220. 
metallic  lustre  upon,  348. 
new  process  for  water  proofing,  385. 
textile,  to  render  water-,  rot-,  and  insect- 
proof,  453, 454. 
textile,  to  water-proof,  384. 
textile,  to  water-proof  and  give  greater  con- 
sistence to,  386. 
to  water-proof  and  protect  against  moths, 

386,  387. 
water-proof  and  incombustible,  new  method 

for  the  production  of,  422. 
woollen,  to  water-proof,  384. 
Facon  rum,  229. 

Faded  manuscripts,  to  restore,  74,  75. 
Falcon  plumes,  118. 
Fancy  articles,  alloy  for,  5. 
Fat,  bone,  bleaching  of,  447. 
from  sheep's  wool,  450. 
of  bones,  to  utilize  in  the  manufacture  of 

soap,  250. 

oils,  vegetable,  French  process  of  cleans- 
ing, 247. 


472 


INDEX. 


Fat,  to  recover  from  waste  wash  liquors,  376. 
377. 

rancid,  to  purify,  168. 
Fats,  separating  and  purifying,  255,  256. 

and  oils,  247-257,  447-453. 

and  oils,  bleaching  of,  447,  448. 

new  process  of  treating,  334,  335. 
Faure  &  French's  blasting  powder,  32. 
Feather  plush,  <?44. 
Feathers,  chicken,  utilization  of,  165. 

how  to  restore  and  dye,  118-li.2. 

to  bleach,  119. 

to  cleanse,  365. 

to  dye  with  aniline  colors,  122. 

to  restore  crushed  and  bent,  119. 

to  wash,  restore,  and  dye   ostrich  mara- 
bouts, etc.,  118-122. 
Fecal  substances,  to  work  in  a  rarefied  space, 

376. 

Feed,  pressed  horse,  129. 
Felted  fabrics,  to  dye  with  aniline  colors,  103, 

104. 

Felt,   to   water-proof,   and  give  greater  con- 
sistence to,  384. 

hats,  to  water-proof,  386. 

substitute  for,  176. 

roofing,  oil  paint  for,  52. 
Female  pills,  294. 
Fennel  essence,  14. 

ratafia,  26. 

Fenton's  alloy  for  axle  boxes,  7. 
Fermentation,  222. 
Ferrocyanide,  potassium,  70. 
Ferrous  nitrate  syrup,  136. 
Fibres  from  nettlos,  hemp,  jute,  etc.,  to  pre- 
pare, 346,  347. 

vegetable,  improved  treatment  of,  345. 

vegetable,  to  animalize,  346. 

vegetable,  to  water-proof,  384. 
Fibrous    substances,   to    gain    from    different 

plants,  274. 

Field  rats  and  mice,  to  destroy,  162. 
Filberts,  coated,  83. 

roasted,  83. 
Filbert  sweetmeat,  82. 
Files,  to  cleanse,  76. 

to  harden,  239. 

to  resharpen,  239,  240. 
Filling  for  caramel  sugar  bon-bons,  81. 
Filtering,  artificial  stone  for,  71. 

of  varnishes,  205,  206. 
Fire  and  water-proof  cement,  63. 

cartridges  for  extinguishing,  124. 

extinguishing  agents  and  means  of  mak- 
ing tissues,  wood,  etc.,  incombustible, 
122-124. 

extinguishing  hand  grenades,  124. 

extinguishing  powders,  Munich  and  Vi- 
enna, 123. 

plating  for  iron,  115. 
Fire-proof  bronze,  45. 

ceilings,  mass  for,  416. 

floors,  mass  for,  416. 

papers,  colors,  and  printed  matter,  454. 

wood,  preparation  of,  309. 

resisting  properties  of  building  materials, 

415. 

Fires,  white,  125. 
Fireworks,  124-129. 

for  rooms,  128. 
Fish,  fluids  for  preserving,  311. 


Fish  oil,  new  process  of  extracting,  451. 

to  preserve,  313. 
Fixateur,  receipts  for,  85,  86. 
Flaxseed  pulp,  for  clarifying  beer,  222,  223. 

yield  of  oil  in,  2. 
Flax  yarn,  C.  Hartmann's  quick  method  of 

bleaching,  36,  37. 
Fleas  on  animals,  to  destroy,  162. 
Fleece,  to  remove  oil  from,  346. 
Fleitmann's  process  of  refining  nickel,  441. 
Flexible  insulating  mass,  417. 

mirrors,  178. 
Flint  glass,  143. 
Floating  soap,  329. 
Floor  covering,  new,  445. 

wax,  389. 
Floors,  cheap  paint  for,  263. 

fire- proof,  mass  for,  416. 

new  compound  for  waxing,  389. 

stain  for,  3U3. 
Flour,  meat,  129. 

potato,  for  soups,  130. 

potato,  to  prepare,  157. 
Flowers,  artificial,  mass  for,  157. 

artificial,  paper  stains  for,  279. 

extraction  of  perfume  from,  282. 

guano  solution  for,  169 

lacquer  for,  209. 

on  glass,  94. 
Fluid  hydrastis,  207. 

le  Franyois,  scouring,  75. 

Saste,  68. 
s  for  making  tissues  incombustible,  123. 
Flux,  Donault-Wieland's,  10. 

for  soldering  aluminium,  4. 

Schrader's,  components  of,  9. 
Fluxes,   components   of,    for  artificial    gems, 
9,  10. 

for  enamels,  preparation  of,  117. 
Fly  glue,  composition  for,  156,  157. 

paper,  to  prepare,  161. 
Focal  distances    for    enlarging    photographic 

pictures,  299. 
Foils,  gelatine,  181, 182. 

jewellers',  202. 

Folbacci's  process  of  rendering  wood  incom- 
bustible and  impermeable,  300. 
Food  and  food  preparations,  129-133. 
Foods,  strengthening,  129. 
Forcite,  33. 
Forks,  alloys  for,  6. 
Foul  air  in  wells,  to  remove,  1R8. 
Fountain,  table,  to  construct,  157. 
Fournaise's  water-proofing  compound,  386. 
Frames,  gilding,  90,  91. 

Frame  work  of  old  altars,  to  cleanse  and  reno- 
vate, 260. 
Frankfort  black,  267. 

snuff,  354. 

Franzl,  process  for  cellulose  dynamite,  29. 
Frear's  artificial  stone,  51. 
Freckles,  vinegar  to  remove,  285. 
Freezing  mixtures,  133,  134. 

salt,  133. 
French  anisette,  17. 

curacoa,  20. 

putty  for  wood,  67. 

Frohnheiser's  method  of  bleaching  cotton,  34. 
Frosted  glass,  ornamenting,  434. 

limbs,  soap  for,  332. 
Frozen  dynamite,  30. 


INDEX. 


473 


Frozen  ground,  to  thaw,  70,  71. 
Fruit  and  other  syrups,  134-1 36. 

-drying  apparatus,  new,  407. 

jellies,  to  prevent  moulding,  315. 

stains,  to  remove,  75. 

to  dry  by  cold  air  blast,  312. 

to  pack  for  transportation,  312. 

wines,  158-1(50. 

wrapping  paper  for,  276. 
Fruits,  artificial,  mass  for,  157. 

candied,  84. 

fluids  for  preserving,  311. 

to  keep,  in  ice-houses,  169. 

to  preserve,  314,  315. 
Fulminate,  33,  34. 

of  mercury,  33. 

of  silver,  33. 
Fulminating  gold,  34. 

platinum,  33,  34. 
Fumigating  articles,  292-294. 
Furnace,  continuously  working,  for  manufact- 
ure of  animal  charcoal,  444,  445. 

Cowles'  electric,  440,  441. 

Jesem's  glass  melting,  9. 
Furniture  glue,  154. 

oak,  to  cleanse  and  beautify,  78. 

renovator,  419. 

varnish,  209. 

wax,  389. 
Furs,  to  protect,  161. 

to  protect  from  moths,  220. 
Fusel  oil,  to  destroy,  229,  230. 
Fusible  alloy,  5. 

alloys,  lowest  melting  points  of,  6. 

colors  used  in  porcelain  painting,  137-141. 
Fusibility  of  alloys,  405. 
Fustic  as  a  yellow  dye,  3. 

Galbanum  and  saffron  plaster,  297. 

Gall,  beef's,  as  a  varnish  on  paintings,  259. 

-nut  ointment,  166. 

soap,  331. 
Galvanic  coppering,  salt  mixtures  for  (Gour- 

lier's),  114. 

Galvanizing  and  nickelling  of  iron  in  Cleve- 
land,  413. 

iron,  new  process  of,  114. 
Galvano-plastic  deposits,  moulds  for,  115. 

silvering,  112. 
Galvanoplasty,  107-115. 
"  Gantein,"  for  cleansing  gloves,  75. 
Garnet,  formula  for,  11. 
Garvey's  lithomarlite,  51. 
Gas,  chlorine,  to  prepare,  72. 

from  cork.  170. 

from  ligroin  and  air,  171. 

from  nitrogeneous  organic  substances,  377. 

leaks,  to  detect,  171. 

lighter,  automatic,  173. 

lime,  sulphur  and  sulphuric  acid  from,  376. 

meters,  dry,  170,  171. 

meters,  tissue  for,  170, 171. 

pipes  from  paper,  451. 

purification  of,  171. 

Gases,  of  coke  ovens,  distillation  of,  374,  375. 
Gauze,  silk,  348. 

white,  to  wash,  3C3. 
Geitner's  alizarine  liquor,  187. 
Gelatine,  alchoholic  solution  of,  298. 

capsules,  296. 

emulsions,  photographic,  300. 


Gelatine  foils,  181, 182. 

jelly,  85. 

Maclagan's  apparatus  and  process  for 
making,  153. 

plates,  developer  for,  299. 

to  make  from  glue,  154. 

Gelatinography,  for  duplicating  drawings,  86. 
Gelatinous  nitro-glycerine,  33. 
Gems,  artificial,  9-12. 

artificial,  minerals  for  coloring,  12. 

artificial,  Wagner's  formula  for,  12. 
German  silver  solder,  337,  338. 

tree  wax,  69. 
Giant  dynamite,  31. 

powder,  32. 

powder,  new  method  of  preparing,  425. 
Gilding  and  silvering  cards,  91. 

and  silvering,  detection  of  imitations,  2. 

and  silvering  leather,  445. 

and  silvering  silk,  cotton  and  woollen 
yarns,  92. 

an  ornamental  frame,  90,  91. 

bronzing,  silvering,  etc  ,  412-415. 

copper  by  boiling,  111. 

cotton,  91,  92. 

glass,  89,  90,  147, 148. 

of  steel,  413,  414. 

on  wood,  394,  395. 

paper,  leather,  etc.,  rosin  compound  for, 
411. 

porcelain,  90. 

soap  varnish  for,  423. 

to  restore  the  lustre  of,  260. 

willow-ware,  460. 

wood,  Italian  method  of,  90,  92. 
Ginger  beer,  160. 

lozenges,  84. 

ratafia,  26. 

wine,  159. 

Gin,  Holland,  receipt  for,  229. 
Glace  photographs,  300. 
Glass,  426-435. 

alabaster,  144. 

and  metals,  painting  with  water-glass,  381. 

and  other  signs,  147-149. 

and  porcelain,  water-glass  and  caseine 
cement  for,  382. 

and  porcelain,  water-glass  cement  for,  382, 

aventurine,  144. 

black  and  colored  lead-pencils  for,  432. 

blowing,  by  means  of  compressed  air, 
426-430. 

Bohemian  chalk,  142. 

Bohemian  crystal,  142. 

bone,  144. 

caoutchouc  cements  for,  61. 

colored,  composiiions  for,  144,  145. 

colored  cie-igns  on,  145. 

compositions  of,  as  actually  used  in  various 
glass-works,  142-144. 

composition  of  colors  for  and  processes 
for  enamelling,  engraving,  gilding,  bend- 
ing, etc.,  141-146. 

compound  water,  to  prepare,  378,  379. 

crown,  143. 

cutting,  with  a  carbon  pencil,  430,  431. 

decorating,  92. 

Elli's  cryolite,  142. 

enamel  for  iron,  118. 

engraving  on,  145. 

etching  ink  for,  431. 


474 


INDEX. 


Glass,  etching  on,  147. 

flint,  143. 

for  bottles,  141-143. 

for  champagne  bottles,  142. 

French  soda,  142. 

frosted,  ornamenting,  434. 

gilding  and  silvering,  147,  148. 

gilding  of,  89,  90. 

gutta-percha  cements  for,  61. 

-headed    pins    with    copper    lustre.    431, 
432. 

impressions  of  flowers  on,  94. 

iridescent,  145. 

lead  crystal,  143. 

-like  varnish,  210. 

lithium,  432. 

melting  furnace,  by  Th.  Jesem,  9. 

new  materials  for,  145. 

new  solder  for,  441. 

opal,  144. 

opaque,  compositions  for,  144. 

pencils  for  writing  on,  79. 

plate,  142. 

plate,  manufacture  of,  432-434. 

plates,  cleansing  mixtures  for,  298,  299. 

plate,  polishing  powder  for,  77. 

platinizing,  434. 

polishing  agents  for,  433,  434. 

polishing  powder  for,  76. 

potash  water,  to  prepare,  378. 

retorts,  cement  for,  63. 

roofs,  to  make  water-tight,  55. 

semi-white,  potash  window,  143. 

signs,  backing  of,  148. 

soda,  142,  143. 

to  clean,  420. 

to  make  opaque  or  frosted,  92. 

to  pulverize,  146. 

toughened,  434,  435. 

to  wood,  joining,  66. 

transferring  photographs  to,  434. 

tubes,  how  to  bend,  146. 

water,  as  a  bleaching  agent,  379,  380. 

water,  characteristics  of,  378. 

water,  for  finishing  linen  and  cotton  goods, 
380. 

water,  for  silicifying  stones,  379. 

water,  from  infusorial  earth,  378. 

water,  its  uses,  378-382. 

water,  Kuhlmann's  process,  379. 

water,  preparation  of  fixing,  379. 

window,  142. 

window,  substitute  for,  178. 

with  copper  lustre,  431,  432. 
Glasses  and  saucers,  to  cleanse,  76. 
Glazed  almonds,  84. 

papers,  stains  for,  279,  280. 
Glaze  for  beer  barrels,  223. 

for  common  earthenware,  146. 

new,  for  barrels,  vats,  etc.,  396,  397. 
Glazes,  Berlin  white,  etc.,  146,  U7. 

for  colored  goods,  326. 

for  earthenware,  146,  147. 

for  metals,  244,  245. 

free  from  lead,  146. 
Gloss  on  wall  papers,  323,  324. 

for  toilet  soaps,  334. 

Gloves,  kid,  to   dye  with  aniline  colors.  104, 
105. 

preparation  for  cleansing,  75. 

to  cleanse  without  wetting,  78. 


Glucose,  anhydrous,  341. 

sugars,  etc.,  340-344. 

to  remove  gypsum  from  solutions  of,  342. 
Glue  and  wood  putty,  67 

Armenian,  66. 

as  a  substitute  for  isinglass,  155. 

boiling,  with  wet  and  dry  waste,  150 

bone,  154. 

chromium,  67. 

clarifying,  the,  151. 

cold  liquid,  154. 

diamond,  66,  67. 

fly,  composition  for,  156,  157. 

for  books,  154. 

for  fancy  articles,  etc.,  66. 

for  fine  leather,  66. 

for  imitations  of  pearl  and  marble,  178- 
181. 

for  ivory  and  bone,  66. 

for  joining  glass  to  wood,  66. 

for  labels,  66. 

from  seaweeds,  177. 

furniture,  154. 

glycerine    for  enclosing  microscopic  ob- 
jects, 68. 

liquid  steam,  154. 

liquid,  to  prepare,  66. 

Maclagan's     apparatus   and    process   for 
making,  153. 

manufacture  of,  149. 

marine,  235. 

moulding,  1 

mouth,  67. 

new  liquid,  154. 

parchment,  411. 

stock,  materials  of,  149. 

stock,  steeping  in  lime,  149, 150. 

taking  it  from  the  moulds,  152. 

to  color  yellow,  151. 

to  make  from  tannery  waste,  152. 

to  whiten,  151. 

water-proof,  154,  423. 

Glutine,  for  wall  papers  and  for  dyeing  and 
printing  purposes,  323,  324. 

thickening  of,  323,  324. 
Glycerine  cement,  65. 

collodion,  295. 

glue  for  enclosing  microscopic  objects,  68. 

soap,  331,332. 

solvent,  power  of,  453. 

to  gain  from  soapboilers'  lye,  250,  251. 

use  in  sizing  and  dressing,  323. 

Wilson's  process  for  preparing,  74. 
Glyceroborates,  calcium  and  sodium,  406,  407. 
Gold,  alloy  resembling,  8. 

and  aluminium  alloys,  4. 

and  orange  stain  for  brass,  414. 

and  silver  lace,  to  wash,  362,  363. 

and  silver  wires,  alloys  for  imitating,  8. 

bronze  on  iron,  46. 

chloride  of,  to  prepare,  73. 

color,  brilliant,  on  plated  articles,  111. 

for  illuminating,  90. 

fulminating,  34. 

polishing  powder  for,  76. 

size,  149. 

solders,  338. 

substitute  for,  4. 

to  cleanse,  78. 

to  regain  from  old  toning  baths,  304. 

varnish  on  iron,  208. 


INDEX. 


475 


Gold  wall  paper,  new  process  of  manufacturing, 
445,  446. 

water,  21. 

water  essence,  14,  15. 
Gongs  and  bells,  metal  for,  8. 
Goudron,  essence  de,  231. 

Gourlier's    salt    mixtures    for    galvanic    cop- 
pering, bronzing,  etc.,  114. 
Grafting  wax,  69. 

Graham's  bronzing  liquids,  tables,  47, 48. 
Graining,  261. 
Grease,  Belgian  wagon,  233. 

belt,  435. 

carriage,  excellent,  233. 

for  machine  belts,  231. 

for  water-proofing  leather,  231. 

French's  machine,  233. 

harness,  436. 

stains,  to  remove  from  paper,  75. 

stains,  water  for  removing,  75. 

to  remove  from  silk,  75. 

wagon,  Persoz's  patent,  234. 
Greases,  patent,  232,  233. 
Greek  bitters,  22. 
Green,  antique,  44. 

bronze  for  brass,  44. 

bronzing,  414. 

color,  innoxious,  for  candies,  85. 

crayons, 79. 

for  artificial  gems,  formula  for,  10. 

marble,  to  grain  imitation  of,  262. 

paint  for  outside  work,  264. 

pigments,  268,  269. 
Green's  blasting  powder,  31. 
Grenades,  hand,  124. 
Grenoble,  ratafia  de,  26. 
Grinding  colors,  260. 
Grindstones,  artificial,  51. 

plastic  water-proof,  51. 
Ground  mass  for  creme,  85. 
Griinewald  bitters,  extract  for,  14. 
Guano,  solution  for  flowers,  169. 

substitute  for,  169. 

Gum-Arabic,  artificial  substitute  for,  324. 
Gum,  artificial,  3'24. 

substitute  for  in  making  bronze  colors,  48. 
Gun  and  blasting  powder  of  Hafenegger,  30. 

barrels,  English  process  of  staining,  244. 

barrels,  processes  for  staining,  244. 

barrels,  to  harden,  240. 

-cotton,  32. 

-cotton,  compressed,  blasting  under  water 
with,  424,  425. 

-cotton,  gunpowder,  nitro-glycerine,  fulmi- 
nates, etc.,  27-34. 

stocks,  composition  for,  183. 
Gunpowder,  Borlinetto's,  31. 

Sharp  and  Smith's  patent,  31. 
Guns,  cleaning  with  petroleum,  243. 
Gutta-percha  and  linseed  oil  cement,  61. 

blacking,  321. 

cement  for  horses'  hoofs,  61. 

cements,  61. 

composition,  60. 

how  to  color  green  or  black,  60. 

solution  of,  for  shoemakers,  60. 

substitute  for,  182,  418. 

Gypsum,  to  remove  from  solutions  of  glucose, 
342. 

Hafenegger's  gun  and  blasting  powder,  30,  31. 


Hager's  composition  for  the  destruction  of  ver- 
min, 162,  153. 

tooth  paste,  95. 

tooth  powder,  95. 
Hair  dyes,  289,  290. 

in  tanneries,  to  preserve,  217. 

oils,  286-288. 

restorers,  tonics,  washes,  etc.,  288,  289. 

short,  utilization  of,  348. 
Hamburgh  bitters,  22. 
Hand  grenades,  124. 
Hard  coating  for  wood,  396. 

nut  shell  buttons,  to  dye,  183, 184. 

solder,  337. 

water,  to  soften,  168. 
Hardened  steel,  mechanically,  441. 
Hardening  and  welding  compounds,  238-241. 

cement,  lime,  52. 

composition  for  steel,  439. 
Harness  grease,  436. 

lacquer  for,  211. 

polish,  436. 
Hartmann's   quick  method  of  bleaching  flax 

yarn,  36,  37. 
Hats,  felt,  to  water-proof,  386. 

scouring  soap  for,  76. 

straw  and  chip,  to  wash,  366,  367. 

straw,  to  cleanse,  76. 

white  straw,  washing,  447. 
Heat,  effect  of  on  textile  fabrics,  344. 

insulation,  137. 
Heating  and  fuel,  137. 
Hedinger's   method  of  bleaching  bones,  etc., 

40. 

Heel  leather,  imitations  of,  183. 
Heels  of  boots  and  shoes,  176. 
Heinzerling's  quick  process   of  tanning,  215, 

216. 

Hektograph,  the,  88. 
Heliotrope  sweetmeat,  82. 
Hemlock  ointment,  166. 
Hempen  fabrics,  to  tan,  220. 
Hemp  seed,  yield  of  oil,  2. 

to  dye,  105. 

to  prepare  for  spinning,  346,  347. 
Heptane,  from  California  digger  or  nut  pine 

tree,  '254. 
Herb  cordial  essence,  15. 

extract,  Koch's,  23. 

soap,  Swiss,  333. 
Heron  plumes,  118. 
Heterogeneous  alloy  (Jean's),  6. 
Hides  and  skins,  to  improve,  217. 

to  depilate,  215,  216. 
Hoarseness,  remedy  for,  166. 
Hoff 's  malt  beer,  295. 
Holland,  anisette,  18. 

cura9oa,  20. 

gin,  receipt  for,  229. 
Hollow  articles,  mass  for,  63. 
Honey  and  glycerine  compound  for  blasting, 
32. 

from  beets  and  carrots,  129, 130. 

wine,  159. 

Hop  stalks,  to  make  cloth  from,  349. 
Hops,  to  preserve,  313,  314. 
Hormann  s  experiments  with  tin  salt,  368. 
Horn  combs,  manufacture  of,  435. 

combs,  to  make  elastic,  446. 

new  method  of  treating,  43. 

process  of  joining  two  pieces  of,  446. 


476 


INDEX. 


Horn,  substitute  for,  174, 178. 

to  imitate  tortoise-shell,  43,  44. 

treatment  of  for  manufacture   of  combs, 
435. 

waste  of,  for  buttons,  44. 
Horse  feed,  bread  for,  130. 

feed,  pressed,  129. 

Horsehair,  to  dye  with  aniline  colors,  105. 
Horses'  hoofs,  cement  for,  61. 
Hose,  rubber,  how  to  soften,  60. 

rubber,  to  render  odorless,  447. 
Household  and  rural  economy,  157-170. 
Hufcland's  tooth  powder,  95. 
Huilard's  substitute  for  tartar  in  dyeing,  105. 
Hyacinth,  formula  for,  11. 
Hydraulic  mortar,  53. 

motors,  oil  for,  234. 

water-glass  cement,  382. 
Hydrocarbons,  liquid,  solidification  of,  452. 
Hydrochloric  acid,  used  in  the  manufacture  of 

gelatine,  to  regain,  375. 
Hydroleine,  133,  29G. 
Hygienic  chocolate,  57. 

Hyponitric  acid,  preparation  of,   and  use  for 
explosive  and  illuminating  substances 

.  425,  426. 

Iceland  moss  chocolate,  57. 

moss  jelly,  85. 

Ice,  to  keep,  without  an  ice-house,  168,  169. 
Illuminating,  gold  for,  90. 

materials,  170-173. 

oil,  to  purify,  251. 

substances,   use  of  hyponitric    acid    for, 

425,  426. 
Imitation  of  cedar  wood,  396. 

of  cinnabar,  421,  422. 

of  ivory,  new,  417. 

Imitations,  adulterations,  etc.,  how  to  detect 
them,  1-3. 

of  mother-of-pearl  and  marble,  with  glue, 
178-181. 

substitutes,  etc.,  174-184. 

Incombustible  fabrics,  new  method  for  the  pro- 
duction of,  422. 

ink  and  paper,  200. 

tissues,  123,  124. 

torches,  material  for,  170. 

varnish  for  wood,  208. 

wicks,  170. 

Incrustations,  Alfieri's  receipt  for  removing, 
40. 

Baudet's  preventive,  40. 

boiler,  39,  40. 

Roger's  preventives,  40. 

Saillard's  receipt  for  removing  and  pre- 
venting, 39. 

Indelible  marking  inks,  80. 
Indestructible  inks,  193,  198, .199. 
India-rubber  goods,  to  prevent  becoming  hard 
and  cracking,  447. 

hose,  to  render  odorless,  447. 
Indigo,  acetate  of,  184,  185. 

carmine,  184,  185. 

carmine,  to  make,  269. 

crystallized,  184. 

indigotine,  and  alizarine,  184-187. 

to  cleanse,  76. 

to  regain  from  residues  of  colors,  377. 

violet,  185. 
Indigotine,  indigo,  and  alizarine,  184-187. 


Indigotine,  Kopp's  process  of  obtaining,  185- 

187. 

Infants'  foods,  132. 
Inflammable  compounds,  236. 
Infusorial  earth  for  insulating  steam-pipes,  13T. 
Ink,  alkaline,  198. 

autographic,  192. 

cake,  199    200. 

etching,  for  glass,  431. 

for  bleached  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  200. 

incombustible,  200. 

lithographic,  English,  192. 

lithographic  printing,  192. 

marking,  200. 

pale  writing,  to  make  black,  200. 

powders,  194. 

powder  in  capsules,  199. 

printers',  with  coal-tar  varnish  oil,  190. 

printing  and  stamping,  containing  iron,  190. 

printing  from  coal-tar,  190. 

printing,    good,    the   properties    which    it 
must  possess,  187,  188. 

printing,  the  manufacture  of,  187-190. 

stains,  to  remove,  75. 

stains,  to  remove  from  silk,  75. 

stones,  194. 

vanadium,  196. 

yellow,  198. 
Inks,  alizarine,  196, 197. 

aniline,  198. 

black,  194,  195. 

blue,  198,  199. 

colored  indelible,  80. 

fire-proof,  454. 

for  marking  glass  and  metal  labels,  200. 

for  steel  pens,  195,  196. 

for  writing  on  glass,  200. 

green,  19«. 

indestructible,  193,  198, 199. 

lithographic,  191,  192. 

lithographic,   printing,  and  writing,  187- 

not  acted  upon  by  acids,  200. 

patent  copying,  193. 

printing,  new  process  for,  190. 

red,  198-200. 

solid,  194,  199. 

stamping  and  sympathetic,  200. 

violet,  198,  199. 

writing,  192-198. 

Innoxious  green  color  for  candies,  85. 
Insects  and  worms,  to  destroy,  161,  162. 
Insect  powder,  Persian,  161. 
Insole  leather,  imitation  of,  183. 
Insulating  mass,  flexible,  417. 

material  for  electrical  conductors,  417. 
Insulation,  heat,  137. 
Intensifier,  Davanne's,  for  spoiled  photographic 

plates,  299. 

Intensifying  bath,  Abney's  photographic,  307 
Iodide  of  lead  ointment,  166. 

of  mercury  ointment,  166. 

of  potassium  ointment,  166. 

of  sulphur  ointment,  166. 

soap,  332. 
Iodine  pastils,  293. 

solution  of,  to  detect  dextrine  in  milk,  2. 
lodoform,  295. 

pencils,  295. 
Iridescent  glass,  145. 

paper,  277. 


INDEX. 


477 


Iridiumv    its     preparation     and     use,    439, 
440. 

phosphor,  casting  of,  440. 

phosphor,  properties  of,  440. 

points  for  pens,  439,  440. 
Irish  moss  jelly,  85. 
Iron,  238. 

and  alumina  mordants  on  cotton  prints, 
linens,  etc.,  fixing  of  by  water-glass, 
379. 

and  aluminium  alloy,  4. 

and  steel,  black  polish  for,  210. 

and  steel,  silvering  of,  113. 

and  steel,  solder  for,  339. 

and  steel,  staining,  243,  244. 

and  steel,  to  cleanse  from  rust,  76, 

bath  for  coppering,  115. 

bath  for  nickelling,  109. 

carbonate  of,  with  chocolate,  5T. 

cast,  substitute  for,  176. 

cast,  to  harden,  238. 

chocolate,  57. 

constructions,  paint  for,  266. 

enamelling  of,  116. 

fire-plating  for,  115. 

galvanizing,  114. 

galvanizing  and  nickelling  of,  in  Cleveland, 
413. 

glass  enamel  for,  118. 

gold  bronze  on,  46. 

gold  varnish  for,  208. 

injurious  effect  on  aluminium,  5. 

lacquers,  205. 

lustre,  422. 

new  process  of  bronzing  on,  414. 

in  stone,  cement  for  fastening,  64. 

rods,  effect  of  aluminium  on,  4. 

separation  of,  from  aluminium,  5. 

stoves,  cement  for,  66. 

to  convert  into  steel,  241. 

to  give  it  a  bright  lustre,  238. 

to  iron,  to  cement,  63. 

to  prevent  rust  on,  164. 

to  protect  from  rust,  242. 
Isinglass,  composition  of,  156. 

glue,  substitute  for,  156. 

jelly,  85. 
Italian  government,  process  of  testing  olive  oil 

for  cotton-seed  oil,  1. 
Ivory  and  bone,  cement  for,  65. 

and  bone,  dyeing,  41. 

and  bone,  glue  for,  66. 

and  bones,  bleaching,  41. 

articles,  how  to  bleach,  43. 

artificial,  43,  416. 

black,  267. 

bleaching,  Peineman's  method,  40. 

new  imitation  of,  417. 

receipts  for  coloring,  41, 42. 

substitute  for.  43,  174,  175. 

to  make  it  soft  and  flexible,  40,  41. 

to  produce  black  and  colored  drawings 
upon, 42, 

vegetable,  174. 

Jaline,  32. 
Japanese  bronzes,  7. 

matches,  128. 

transparent  varnish,  208, 
Japan  gold  size,  149. 
Jasmine  sweetmeat,  82. 


Jellies,  red  color  for,  85. 

to  prevent  the  moulding  of,  315. 
Jelly,  buck-horn,  85. 

gelatine,  85. 

Iceland  moss,  85. 

Irish  moss,  85. 

isinglass,  85. 

sago,  85. 

tapioca,  85. 
Jepp's  apparatus  and  process  of  manufacturing 

starch,  glucose,  and  dextrose,  341-343. 
Jewellers'  cement,  66. 

foils,  202. 

rouge,  77. 

Jewelry,  alloy  for,  substitute  for  gold,  4. 
Jewreinoff  on  platinizing  copper  and  brass, 

Johnson's  process  for  potassium  ferrocyanide, 

ournal-boxes,  alloys  for,  6. 

uice,  orange,  15. 

ungschlager's  quick  process  of  tanning,  216. 

uniper  berry  essence,  16. 

uniper  elixir,  17. 

liqueur,  22. 

Juneman's   process   for  wick-consuming  can- 
dles, 172,  173. 
Jute,  to  dye,  105. 

to  prepare  for  spinning,  346,  347. 
working  of,  348,  349. 

Kahl's  patent  plaster,  416. 
Kid,  calf,  manufacture  of  in  Philadelphia,  214, 
215. 

leather,  dyes  for,  218,  219. 

leather,  to  make  soft,  232. 
Kindling  compound,  137. 
King's  patent  fuel,  137. 
Knife-sharpeners,  caoutchouc  composition  for, 

Knives  and  forks,  alloy  for,  5. 

Koch's  herb  extract,  23. 

Koeben's  healing  powder,  57. 

Kolbe's  mouth  wash,  95. 

Kopp's  process  of  obtaining  alizarine  and  in- 

digotine,  185-187. 
Koumiss,  artificial,  294. 
Krebs  &  Co.,  process  for  dynamite,  29. 
Kuhr's  receipt  for  water-proofing  linen,  386. 
Ktimmel  cordial,  20. 

Labels,  glue  for,  66. 

inks  for,  200. 

on  machines,  paste  for,  69. 
Lace,  point,  to  wash,  365. 

silver  and  gold,  to  polish,  364. 

silver  and  gold,  to  wash,  362,  363. 

to  whiten,  365. 
Laces,  size  for,  326. 

to  wash,  364,  365. 

Lacquer  and  varnish,  German  patent  process 
of  making,  212. 

bookbinders',  210,  412. 

bronze,  210. 

elastic,  211. 

for  closing  bottles,  211. 

for  drawings,  211. 

for  flowers,  maps,  playing  cards,  prints, 
etc.,  209. 

for  harness,  etc.,  211. 

for  leather,  209,  210. 


473 


INDEX. 


Lacquer  for  spring  steel,  211. 

spirit,  for  wax  tapers,  389. 
Lacquered  wood,  to  cleanse,  164. 
Lacquering,  background  for,  392. 

of  sheet  metal,  244,  245. 
Lacquers  and  varnishes,  202-214. 

for  carriages,  214. 

iron,  205. 

photographic,  308. 

spirit,  205. 
Lactopepsin,  297. 

Lake  pigments,  carmine  and  others,  268. 
Lampblack,  266. 

from   the   resinous   sodic   residues   in  the 

working  of  coal-tar,  372. 

Lampblacks,  manufacture  of,  from  asphaltum 
pitch  or  blacksmiths'  pitch,  371,  372. 

manufacture  of,  from  waste    in   working 

coal-tar,  370-372. 
Lamps,  cement  for,  65. 
Lange  &  Son's  patent  aluminium  alloys,  4. 
Lanolin,  Liebreich's  process  of  preparing,  450. 
Lapis  lazuli,  formula  for,  11. 
Lard  and  tallow,  to  prevent  becoming  rancid. 
168. 

and  tallow,  to  purify,  169. 
Lavender,  essence,  15. 
Lead,  adulteration  of  vinegar  with,  2. 

and  aluminium,  do  not  alloy,  4. 

bath  for  nickelling,  109. 

crystal  glass,  143. 

ointment,  166. 

pencils,  black  and  colored,  for  glass  and 
porcelain,  432. 

pipes,  to  protect,  242. 

plasters,  297. 

Leaden  water-pipes,  coating  of,  445. 
Leather,  artificial,  176, 177. 

artificial,  for  lithographers'  rollers,  174. 

belts,  cements  for,  64. 

black  gloss  for,  215. 

calf,  with  a  white  flesh-side,  smooth,  217. 

cement  for,  65. 

cloth,  176. 

dyeing  of,  217-221. 

elastic  mass  resembling,  417. 

fine,  glue  for,  66. 

from  seaweeds,  177. 

gilding  and  silvering,  445. 

grease  for  water-proofing,  231,  232. 

gutta-percha  cements  for,  61. 

Hall's  substitute  for,  176. 

imitations  of,  183. 

lacquer  for,  209,  210. 

marbled  and  dark  of  one  color,  gilding  on, 
411,412. 

ointments,  321. 

ornaments,  to  fasten,  on  metal,  94. 

prepared  cloth  as  a  substitute  for,  383. 

pulverized,  for  boot  heels,  176. 

Reichard's  and  Reber's  processes  for  gild- 
ing, 411. 

tanning  and  dyeing,  including  furs,  etc., 
214-221. 

to  give  it  the  smell  of  Russia  leather,  220, 
221. 

to  water-proof,  384. 

transparent,  to  prepare,  216. 

vegetable,  418. 

wash,  cleansing  of,  419. 

waste,  use  of  in  manufacture  of  paper,  277. 


Lemonade  powders,  157. 

syrups  for,  134,  135. 
Lemon  essence,  15. 

juice,  to  preserve,  312. 

lozenges,  84. 

soap, 332. 

sweetmeat,  82. 
Levulose,  to  prepare,  342. 
Liebreich's  process  for  preparing  lanolin,  460. 
Life,  elixir  of,  17. 
Light  blue    ultramarine    colors    with    potash 

water-glass,  380. 

Lightning-rods,  to  protect  from  rust,  242. 
Lights,  Bengal,  124. 
Ligroin  and  air,  gas  from,  171. 
Lily  soap,  332. 
Lime  and  sugar  paste,  68. 

burnt,  to  preserve,  312. 

liniment,  167. 

putty  for  wood,  67. 

to  harden,  52. 

Linen  and  cotton  goods,  finishing  of,  by  water- 
glass,  380. 

fabrics,  to  tan,  220. 

gold  embroidered,  to  wash,  364. 

goods,  sizing  for,  322,  323. 

Kuhr's  receipt  for  water-proofing,  386. 

marking  ink  for,  79,  80. 

pencils  for  marking,  79. 

sizes  for,  326. 

to  wash,  363. 

tracing,  276. 
Liniments,  various,  167. 
Linseed  oil  and  gutta-percha  cement,  61. 

oil,  substitute  for,  452. 
Lipowitz,  fusible  alloy  of,  5. 
Liqueur,  calamus,  19. 

cherry,  19. 

Chinese,  26. 

chocolate,  20. 

cumin,  20. 

juniper,  22. 
Liqueurs,  bitters,  cordials,  ratafias,  17-27. 

cordials,  etc.,  mode  of  coloring,  12. 
Liquid    cement    for    coating    metals,    papier 
mache,  etc.,  414. 

glue,  cold,  154. 

glue,  to  prepare,  66. 

Graham's  bronzing,  47,  48. 

wash  blues,  370. 

water-glass,  Kuhlmann's  process  at  Lille, 

379. 

Liquids,    hermetically    closing    bottles     con- 
taining, 311. 

Liquor,  Geitner's  alizarine,  187. 
Liquors   and    beverages,    beer,    brandy,  gin, 
whiskey,  wines,  etc,  221-231. 

to  purify,  230. 
Litharge  ointment,  166. 
Lithium  glass,  432. 
Lithofracteur  made  by  Krebs  &  Co.,  of  Deutz, 

29. 
Lithographers'    rollers,   artificial  leather  for, 

174. 
Lithographic  ink,  English,  192. 

inks,  191,  192. 

printing  ink,  192. 
Lithomarlite,  Garvey's,  51. 
Litmus,  tincture  of,  to  prepare,  71. 
Liver-of-sulphur,  to  prepare,  74. 
London  purple  for  the  destruction  of  insects,162. 


INDEX. 


479 


Love  sweetmeat,  82,  83. 
Lowget's  polishing  powder,  76. 
Lozenges,  84. 

Chinese,  84. 

chocolate,  57. 

ginger,  84. 

lemon,  84. 

peppermint,  84,  295. 

spice  for,  84. 

stomachic,  84. 
Lubricant,  caoutchouc,  232. 

caoutchouc,  for  driving  belts,  436. 

for  axles,  shafts,  etc.,  232. 

for  belts,  233. 

for  industrial  purposes,  232. 

from  oil  residues,  233. 

from  paraffine  residues,  232. 

from  seaweed,  234. 

pulverulent,  232. 

pyroleine,  233. 
Lubricants,  438. 

blacking,  etc.,  435-439. 

for  machines,  wagons,  etc.,  231-235. 

mixtures  of  mineral  and  animal  oils  for, 
438. 

purification  of,  after  use,  438. 
Lubricating  oil  for  astronomical  instruments, 
234. 

oils,  Thurston's  machine  for  testing,  436- 

438. 

Lumber,  terra-cotta,  416. 
Luminous  paper,  454,  455. 
Lunar  caustic,  to  prepare,  73. 
Lustre,  bright,  91. 

colors,  140. 

colors,  preparation  of  with  carbolic  acid, 
422. 

dead, 91. 

durable  on  copper,  46. 
Lustres,  bismuth,  tin,  uranium,  and  iron,  422. 

metallic,  upon  fabrics,  348. 
Lustrine,  Alsacienne,  370. 
Lutecine,  components  of,  5. 
Lye,  caustic  soda,   Balling's  method  of  pre- 
paring, 335. 

Lyes,  percemtage  of  soda  and  potash  in,  335. 
Lyons  asphaltum,  54. 

Mace  extract,  15. 

Machine  oil,  consistent,  232,  233. 

Machines  for  manufacture  of  chocolate,  55,  56. 

lubricants  for,  231-235. 
Machinery  metal  for  various  purposes,  table 

of,  406. 

Mackinnon  pen,  iridium  points  for,  439. 
Madder,  yellow,  the  most  stable  yellow  dye,  3. 
Madeira  wine,  231. 
Magnesium,  neutral  extract  of,  296. 
Magnus'  patent  to  polish  slate,  78. 
Mahogany,  to  grain  imitation  of,  261. 
Malachite,  imitations  of,  180. 
Malaga  wine,  231. 
Malleable  brass,  receipt  for,  241. 

nickel,  receipt  for,  241,  242. 
Malt  beer,  295. 

bon-bons,  81. 

extracts,  296. 

fabrication  of,  221. 

mashing,  221,  222. 

mashing  the,  for  brewing,  221,  222. 

sugar,  80. 


Malt  with  pepsin  wine,  297. 
Manganese  alloys,  403,  404. 

bronze,  6,  405. 
Mannite,  342,  343. 
Manure  for  meadows,  373, 

from  animal  waste,  169. 

from  coal-ashes,  169. 

powder  from  blood,  169. 

salt  from  urine,  169. 

Manures,  artificial,  from  residues  in  the  work- 
ing of  coal-tar,  372. 

for  meadows,  373. 

for  turnips,  etc.,  169. 
Manuscripts,  faded,  to  restore,  74,  75. 
Maple,  to  grain  imitation  of,  2(52. 
Maps,  lacquer  for,  209. 

Marabouts,  how  to  restore  and  dye,  118, 122. 
Maracaibo  tobacco,  350. 
Maraschino,  23. 
Marble,  artificial,  51. 

bleaching  stained,  39. 

busts,  to  clean,  78. 

concrete,  54. 

imitation  of,  178. 

imitation  of  for  plastic  ornaments,  183. 

to  clean,  420,  421. 

to  grain  imitation,  262. 

variegated,  to  imitate,  51. 
Marbleizing  sandstone,  53. 
Margarine,  131-133. 
Marine  glue,  235. 
Marjoram  essence,  15. 
Marking  brush  for  boxes,  201. 

ink  for  linen,  79,  80. 

inks,  200. 

tools,  443. 

Marmalade,  cherry,  84,  85. 
Marmorin,  63. 

Martin    and    Delamotte's    process  of  nickel- 
plating,  108. 

Martinsen's  blasting  powder,  32. 
Masonry,  brick,  made  impervious  to  water,  55. 
Mass,  flexible  insulating,  417. 

for  hollow  articles,  63. 

for  plastic  models,  417. 

for  roofing,  fire-proof  ceilings,  etc.,  416. 

for  toys,  vessels,  dolls'  heads,  etc.,  62. 

resembling  leather,  417. 
Mastic  cement,  63. 
Matches,  236-238. 

antiphosphorus,  237. 

inextinguishable  in  the  wind,  237. 

Japanese,  128. 

parlor,  236,  237. 

quick,  125. 

Swedish,  236. 

without  phosphorus,  237. 

without  sulphur,  236. 
Materials,  strength  of,  456-458. 
Meat  biscuit,  130. 

English  pickle  for,  310. 

extract  with  chocolate,  57. 

flour,  129. 

preservatives  of,  310,  311. 

quick  process  of  corning,  on  a  small  scale, 
312. 

to  preserve,  314. 
Medals,  bronze  for,  8. 
Medicated  and  toilet  soaps,  331-335. 

waters,  290-292. 
Medicinal  sweetmeats,  83. 


480 


INDEX. 


Medicines,  new  patent,  296,  297. 
Meerschaum,  caseine  cement  for,  65. 

substitute  for,  175,  176. 
Mege's  process  for  oleomargarine,  131. 
Meiffren's  patent  alloy,  8. 
Melanyl  candles,  171. 
Mercury,  fulminate  of,  33. 
Metal,  cement  for  fastening  rubber  upon,  64. 

coin,  8. 

electroplating  with  cobalt,  111. 

fire  and  water-proof  cement  for,  63. 

for  brasses,  table  of,  406. 

for  gongs  and  bells,  8. 

industry,  238-245,  439-444. 

letters,  cement  for  fastening  on  glass,  etc., 
64. 

machinery  for  various  purposes,  406. 

new  solder  for,  441. 

polishing  powder  for,  76. 

rags  for  polishing,  419. 

Spence's,  6,  405. 

stop-cocks,  composition  for,  7. 

surfaces,  ornamenting,  92. 

to  lacquer,  244,  245. 

type,  components  of,  6. 

water-proof  paint  for,  266. 
Metals,  and  glass,  painting  with  water-glass, 
381. 

bronzing  and  coloring,  44-49. 

caseine  cement  for,  65. 

coloring,  46,  47. 

glazes  for,  244,  245. 

liquid  coating  for,  414. 

platinizing,  110,111. 

polishing  pastes  for,  77. 

polishing  rags  for,  77. 

preparation  of,  for  nickelling,  110. 

staining,  243,  244. 

to  enamel  and  cement,  116,  117. 

Warne  and  Trabak,  403. 
Metallic  colors,  zinciferous,  137,  138. 

lustre,  to  impress  upon  fabrics,  346. 

sulphides  as  mordants,  106. 

surfaces,  paint  for,  264. 

wicks,  170. 

Metalline,  manufacture  of,  234. 
Metallique,  moire,  45,  46. 
Metallized  caoutchouc,  60. 
Meters,  dry  gas,  170,  171. 
Mice,  paste  for  destroying,  162. 
Microscopic  objects,  paste  for,  68. 

preparations,  68. 
Mignonette  soap,  332. 
Mildew  stains,  to  remove,  75. 
Milk,  adulterations  of,  2. 

foods  for  children,  132. 

sugar,  340,  341. 

to  keep  from  souring,  157. 

to  preserve,  314. 
Milks,  condensed,  132. 
Millstones,  artificial,  51. 
Minargent,  8,  403. 
Mineral  oils,  to  purify,  247. 

oils,  to  free  from  sulphuric  acid  and  sul- 
phur, 256. 

waters,  syrups  for,  134, 135. 
Mine  timber,  preparation  of,  395,  396. 
Mint,  Paris,  bronzing  in,  44. 
Mirror-glass,  142. 

Bohemian,  142. 
Mirrors,  flexible,  178. 


Mirrors,  polishing  powder  for,  77. 

silvering  of  telescopic,  113. 
Mitis  castings,  441. 
Modelling  wax,  389. 

wax,  superior,  418. 
Models,  plastic  mass  for,  417. 
Mogador,  23. 
Moire  metallique,  45,  46. 
Molasses  soap,  320. 
Moleskin,  a  substitute  for  leather,  383. 
Molybdic  acid,  to  prepare,  73,  74. 
Monpou  elixir,  17. 
Monuments,  bronze,  48,  49. 

to  repair  with  water-glass  paste,  379. 
Moody's  new  polish  for  wood,  394. 
Mordants,  105, 106. 

iron  and  alumina,  fixing  of  by  water-glass* 

Morocco  paper,  stains  for,  280,  281. 
Mortar,  bitumen,  53. 

hydraulic,  53. 

requisites  for,  52. 

water-proof,  53. 

water-glass  and  chalk,  382. 
Mosaics,  staining  wood  for,  393,  394. 
Mosquitoes  and  gnats,  to  destroy,  162. 
Moth  and  roach  exterminator,  446. 
Mother-of-pearl,  imitation  of,  178. 
Moths,  packing  paper  to  protect  cloths,  furs, 
etc.,  from,  408. 

receipts  for  destroying,  161, 162. 

to  protect  furs  from,  220. 
Moulding  figures,  pasteboard  mass  for,  63. 

the  glue,  151. 
Moulds  for  galvano-plastic  deposits,  115. 

taking  glue  from,  152. 
Mouth  glue,  67. 

paste,  antiseptic,  95. 

washes,  95. 

Mowbray's  process  for  nitro-glycerine,  27-29. 
Mulberry  ratafia,  26. 
Munich  fire-extinguishing  powder,  123. 
Musical  instruments,  steel  wire  for,  241. 
Music  printing  plates,  alloy  for,  6. 
Musk  extract,  283,  284. 

essence,  15. 

soap,  332. 

Muslin  and  cotton  prints,  to  wash  without  in* 
jury  to  the  color,  368. 

fine,  to  wash,  363. 

gold  embroidered,  to  wash,  364. 

to  bleach,  34. 
Mustards,  245-247. 
Mustard-seed,  yield  of  oil  by,  2. 
Must,  wine,  to  improve,  231. 

Naples  yellow,  270. 

Naphtha,  ether,  170. 
test  of,  254,  255. 

Naphthaline  colors,  to  dye  with,  103. 
to  prepare,  248. 

Napoleon,  eaude,  21. 

Nectar,  23. 

Negative  layer,  to  remove  from  glass-plate  in 

photography,  305. 

process,    Wothly's,   without    intensifying 
bath,  308. 

Nettles,  to  prepare  for  spinning,  346,  347. 

Neutral  soaps,  330. 

Nicotine  in  tobacco,  apparatus  for  testing  per- 
centage of,  74. 


INDEX. 


481 


Nickel    alloy,   prepared    by    Christofle     and 
Bouilhet,  5. 

baths,  109. 

Fleitmann's  process  of  refining,  441. 

malleable,  receipt  for,  241,  242. 

waste,  utilization  of,  443. 
Nickelling,  American,  109. 

and  galvanizing  of  iron  in  Cleveland,  O., 
413. 

latest  Anglo-American,  109, 110. 

preparation  of  the  metals  for,  110, 
Nickel-plating,  107-109. 
Niello,  118. 

Nitric  acid,  adulterating  vinegar  with,  2. 
Nitrogeneous  organic  substances,  productions 

made  from,  377. 
Nitro-glycerine,  27-34. 

Bottger's  process,  29. 

gelatinous,  33. 

to  protect  from  moisture,  32. 
Nobel's  process  for  dynamite,  29. 
Non-explosive  powder,  31. 
Norbin  &  Ohlsson's  patent  for  dynamite,  29. 
Nut  essence,  15. 
Nutmeg  essence,  15. 

Nutritive  substances,  fluids  containing,  to  pre- 
serve, 313. 
Nuts,  pea,  yield  of  oil  by,  2. 

Oak  furniture,  to  cleanse  and  beautify,  78. 

to  grain  imitation  of,  261. 
Offal  and  waste,  utilization  of,  370-378. 
Oil  and  wood  putty,  67. 

a  new,  from  California,  254. 

Belmontine  and  Sherwood,  254. 

castor,  manufacture  of,  247. 

cement  paint  for  felt  roofing,  52. 

-cloth,  345,  346. 

-cloth,  bronze  color,  for  printing  on,  190, 
191. 

coal-tar,  process  of  producing  in  England, 
256,  257. 

coal-tar  varnish,  256. 

colors,  dryer  for,  266. 

corn,  from  corn  mash,  251. 

cotton-seed,  manufacture  of,  449,  450. 

cotton-seed,  refining,  451. 

crude  cotton-seed,    production  of  soap  or 
sebacic  acids  from,  451. 

drying,  Chinese,  248. 

fish,  new  process  of  extracting,  451. 

for  pumicing  wood,  252. 

for  watchmakers,  235. 

from  acid  tar,  251. 

from  sunflower  seed,  252. 

illuminating,  to  purify,  251. 

linseed,  substitute  for,  174,  452. 

machine,  consistent,  232,  233. 

machine,  from  coal-tar  varnish  oil,  234. 

neat's-foot,  manufacture  of,  248. 

of  lemon,  effect  of  on  oil  paintings.  258. 

of  turpentine,  effect  of  on  oil  paintings, 
258. 

of  turpentine,  substitute  for,  174. 

olive,  clarifying,  449. 

oxidized,  412. 

painting^  green  borate  of  copper  for,  268. 

painting,  to  transfer  from  an  old  to  a  new 
canvas,  259. 

paintings,  effects  of  different  solvents  on, 
257-259. 
31 


Oil  paintings,  how  to  cleanse,  pack,  and  var- 
nish, and  to  restore  gilt-work,  257-260. 

paintings,  how  to  pack,  259. 

paintings,  special  instructions  for  cleansing, 
258,  259. 

paintings,  to  lacquer  and  cleanse,  259. 

paintings,  to  paste  on  wood,  259. 

paintings,  varnishing  of,  259,  260. 

poppy-seed,  to  purify,  251. 

rape-seed,  to  detect,  252,  253. 

residues,  lubricant  from,  233. 

rosin,  and  its  uses,  248,  249. 

shale,  residues  of,  247. 

sugar,  to  prepare,  80. 

to  disguise  the  taste  of,  166. 

to  make  parchment  paper  impermeable  to, 

to    remove  from   fleece,   wool,   silk,   and 

woollen  fabrics,  346. 
to  remove  from  silk,  75. 
train,  to  purify,  251. 
Vulcan,  234.. 
white  vaseline,  453. 
wood-tar,  purification  of,  255. 
Oils  and  fats,  447-453. 

and  fats,  animal,  vegetable  and  mineral, 

247-257. 

and  fats,  bleaching  of,  447,  448. 
and  paraflines,  from  petroleum  residues. 

451,  452. 
animal  and  mineral,  lessening  of  the  lia- 

bility   to    spontaneous   combustion    by 

mixing,  438. 

animal,  to  purify,  251,  252. 
coal-tar,  shoemakers'  wax  from,  257. 
cruciferal,  to  detect,  252. 
essential,  detection  of  water  in,  449. 
hair,  286-288. 
light,  to  distinguish  from   petroleum  and 

tar-oils,  254. 

lubricating,  machine  for  testing,  436-438. 
mineral  and   animal,  lessening  of  the  lia- 

bility   to    spontaneous    combustion    by 

mixing,  438. 
mineral,  to  purify,  247. 
mineral,  to  remove  sulphuric  acid  and  sul- 

phur from,  256. 
mineral,  to  solidify,  248. 
percentage  of,  in  seeds,  12. 
purification  of,  452,  453. 
testing,  257. 
to  deodorize,  252. 
vegetable  fat,  French  process  of  cleansing, 

Ointment,  blistering,  294. 
Ointments,  leather,  321. 

various,  166,  167. 

water-proof,  for  shoes,  321,  322. 
Oleicacid,  purified,  to  prepare,  73. 
Oleomargarine,  131-133 

separating  and  purifying  the  fats  for,  235 
Oleum  aromaticum,  297. 


Olive  oil,  clarifying,  449. 

oil,  effect  of  on  oil  paintings,  258. 
process  of  testing  for  cotton-seed  oil,  L 


Onyx,  to  make  from  agate,  177. 
Opal,  formula  for,  11. 

glass,  144. 
Opaque  glass,  composition  for,  144. 

glass,  substitute  for,  178. 
Opera  glasses,  alloy  for,  6. 


482 


INDEX. 


Opium  liniment,  167. 

ointment,  167 
Opodeldoc,  297. 
Orange  and  gold  stain  for  brass,  414. 

blossom  extract,  15 

blossom  sweetmeat,  82. 

blossom  water,  15. 
Orange  blossoms,  coated,  84. 

blossoms,  preparation  of,  15. 

dyes,  test  for,  3. 

juice,  15. 

peel  cordial,  23 

peel  extract,  15. 

ratafia,  26 

soap, 332 

sugar,  80. 

sweetmeat,  81 

wine,  159. 

Oranges,  candied,  84. 
Oranienburg  soap,  330. 
Ordway's  artificial  stone,  50. 
Ores,  refractory,  Cowles'  electric  furnace  for 

reducing,  440,  441. 
Organic  substances,  novelties   in   preserving, 

and  apparatus  used,  407,  408. 
Orient,  eau  d',  21. 

Ornamentation,  decoration,  etc  ,  89—94. 
Ornamenting  frosted  glass,  434. 
Ornaments,  artificial  wood  for,  93. 

bronze  for,  8. 

composition  for,  62 

imitation  of  marble  for,  183. 

leather,  to  fasten  upon  metal,  94. 

wood  mass  for,  93,  94. 
Oroide,  composition  of,  3. 
Osiers,  coloring  with  aniline  colors,  459,  460. 

how  they  can  be  peeled  in  winter,  391. 
Ostberg's  process  of  making  wrought-iron  cast- 
ings, 441. 

Ostrich  feathers,  118. 
Otto's  process  of  manufacturing  pressed  yeast, 

401. 

Ott's  artificial  stone,  50. 
Oxalic  acid,  preparation  of,  73 
Oxidized  oil,  412. 

silver,  44,  441,  442. 
Ozotine,  from  woolly  fibre,  274. 

Packing,  asbestos  and  rubber,  62. 

Painters'  cream,  273. 

Paint  brushes,  to  clean  from  dried  paint,  76. 

cheap,  for  outside  work,  264. 

flexible,  263. 

for  constructions  of  iron,  265 

for  metallic  surfaces,  264. 

for  outside  walls,  264. 

for  outside  work,  265,  266. 

for  roofs,  265. 

for  tin  roofs,  264. 

for  vessels,  submarine  works,  etc.,  263, 
264 

for  wooden  posts,  etc.,  397. 

for  wood  or  stone  which  resists  moisture, 
264. 

green,  for  outside  work,  264. 

oil  cement,  for  roofing,  52. 

parafine,  receipt  for,  265. 

quickly  drying,  265. 

Swedish,  for  wood  work,  265. 

universal,  for  oil  or  water,  264. 

water-proof,  263 


Paint,  water-proof,  for  metals,  266. 

white,  for  metallic  surfaces,  264. 

whitewash  closely  resembling,  165. 
Painting  on  zinc,  414,  415. 

receipts  for  colors  for,  262,  263. 

sign,  148,  149. 

water-glass  in,  381. 

willow-ware,  460. 

Paints  and  pigments,  grinding  and  mixing 
colors,  graining,  imitation  of  marbles, 
paints,  and  washes  for  various  purposes, 
260-273 

cheap,  for  floors,  stone- work,  etc.,  263, 
264. 

for  various  purposes,  263-266. 

poisonous,  271. 
Palamaud,  58. 

composition  of,  129 

Palladium,  platinum  and  copper  alloy,  403. 
PalmgrSne,  58. 
Palm  oil  wagon  grease,  232. 
Panama  essence,  368. 

hats,  dressing  for,  326. 
Paper,  453^55. 

amianthus,  277. 

and  paper  materials,  manufacture,  stain- 
ing, etc.,  glass,  sand,  and  emery  paper. 
273-281. 

blasting,  424. 

cigarette,  274. 

carbolic  acid,  275. 

colored,  for  tying  up  bottles,  277. 

crystalline  coating  for,  421. 

electro-chemical  telegraph,  277. 

emery,  278,  279. 

fly,  to  prepare,  161. 

for  artificial  flowers,  stains  for,  279. 

for  covering  boilers,  455 

for  documents,  274. 

for  wrapping  fruit  in,  276. 

gas-pipes,  454. 

glazed,  stains  for,  279,  280. 

gold  wall,  new  process  of  manufacturing, 
445,446. 

how  to  split,  281. 

imitation  of  mother-of-pearl  on,  277,  278. 

incombustible,  200. 

iridescent,  277. 

Johnson's  varnish  for  water-proofing,  423. 

luminous,  454,  455. 

manufacture  of  bottles  from,  455. 

matrices  for  stereotype  plates,  115 

morocco,  stains  for,  280,  281. 

parchment,  275. 

parchment,  to  make  impermeable  to  oil, 
455. 

photo-lithographic  transfer,  276. 

pulp,  new  process  of  manufacturing,  455. 

raw  materials  for,  273,  274. 

Reichardt's  process  of  gilding,  411. 

safety,  274,  275. 

soap,  preparation  of,  455. 

tar,  276,  277. 

to  free  from  fatty  substances,  77. 

to  make  incombustible,  124. 

to  make  transparent,  278. 

to  protect  cloth,  furs,  etc.,  from  moths, 
408. 

to  remove  grease  stains  from,  75. 

to  render  water-,  rot-,  and  insect-proof, 
453,  454. 


INDEX. 


Paper,  to  water-proof,  384. 

tracing,  276. 

wall,  paste  for,  68. 

water-proof   275. 

waxed,  to  prepare,  388. 

writing  and  drawing,  which  can  be  washed, 

276. 
Papers,  cork,  275. 

fire-proof,  454. 
Papier  mache,  from  flour,  63. 

mach6,  liquid  cement  for  coating,  414. 
Paradise,  eau  de,  22. 

water,  22. 

Paraffine  and  heavy  oils  from  petroleum  resi- 
dues, 451,  452. 

bleaching  of,  for  manufacture  of  candles, 
447. 

paint,  receipt  for,  265. 

preparation  and  uses  of,  253,  254. 

purifying,  259. 

residues,  lubricants  from,  2:52. 
Parasol  ribs,  artificial  whalebone  for,  178. 
Parchment,  fabrication  of,  454. 

fluid,  211. 

glue,  411. 

paper,  275. 

paper,  to  make  impermeable  to  oil,  455. 

to  gild  and  silver,  91. 
Parfait  D'Amour,  23. 
Paris  green,  to  make,  268. 

metal,  components  of,  5. 

mint,  bronzing  in,  44. 

tooth  powder,  95. 
Parisian  rappee  snuff,  354. 

wood  varnish,  209. 
Parlor  matches,  236,  237. 
Pasteboard,  for  moulding  large  figures,  63. 

plastic,  for  surgical  bandages,  276. 

to  enamel,  277 . 

to  make  water-proof,  277. 
Paste,  durable,  69. 

dry,  68. 

fluid,  68. 

for  fixing  printed  labels  on  machines,  69. 

for  microscopic  objects,  68. 

for  patent  leather,  321. 

for  postage  stamps,  68. 

for  wall-paper,  68. 

lime  and  sugar,  68. 

safety  for  post-office  packages,  69. 
Pastes,  cements  and  putties,  (53-69. 

polishing,  for  metals,  glass,  etc.,  77,  420. 
Pastiles,  293,  294. 
Patchouli  soap,  332. 

Patent  dynamite,  Norbin  and  Ohlsson's  pro- 
cess, 29. 

leather,  paste  for,  321. 

medicines,  296,  297. 
Paving,  asphaltum  for,  53. 
Peach  cordial,  23. 

essence,  15. 

Peanuts,  yield  of  oil  in,  2. 
Pear  ratafia,  26. 
Pearl  embroideries,  to  wash,  366. 

imitations  of,  178-181. 

imitation  of  on  paper,  277,  278. 

lustre,  to  imitate,  182. 

mother-of,  to  dye  with  aniline  colors,  104. 

veneers,  to  imitate,  179. 


yarn,  345 

iris, 


Pearls,  artificial,  9-12. 


Pearls,  artificial,  Geissler's  process,  12. 

genuine,  to  wash,  365. 
Pectoral  bon-bons,  81. 

troches,  80. 
Peineman's  method  of  bleaching  ivory  turned 

yellow,  40. 
Pencils  for  marking  linen,  79. 

for  writing  on  glass,  79. 

iodoform,  295. 

sharpening  stone  for,  177. 
Pens,  iridium  points  for,  439. 
Peppermint  cordial,  28. 

drops,  84. 

essence,  16. 

lozenges,  84,  295. 

sweetmeat,  82. 
Pepsin,  lacto,  297. 

wine,  with  malt,  297. 
Peralite,  32. 

Perfume  from  flowers,  extraction  of,  282. 
Perfumes  for  cigars,  354. 

Perfumery,  aromatic  vinegars,  cosmetics,  ex 
tracts,  hair  oils,  pomades,  powders, 
washes,  fumigating  articles,  etc.,  282- 

Permanent  inks,  198,  199. 

Perron's  fireworks  for  rooms,  128. 

Persian  insect  powder,  161. 

Persimmon  seeds,  substitute  for  coffee,  169. 

Petroleum,  cleaning  guns  with,  243. 

lamps,  cement  for,  65. 

residues,   heavy  oils  and  paraffine  from, 
451,  452. 

to  clarify  without  distilling,  252. 

to  detect,  254. 

to  solidify,  248. 
Petum  optimum,  351. 
Pewter,  solder  for,  339. 
Pfauth's  process  of  preparing  pressed   yeast 

from  beer  yeast,  402,  403. 
Pharaoh's  serpents,  128. 

serpents,  substitute  for,  129. 
Pharmaceutical  preparations,  294-298. 
Phosphor  bronze,  404,  405. 

iridium,  casting  of,  440. 

iridium,  properties  of,  440. 
Phosphorescent  enamel,  422. 

illuminating  powder,  70. 

mixtures,  446. 

Phosphorizing  bronze  or  brass,  442,  443. 
Phosphorole,  296. 
Phosphorus,  amorphous,  preparation  of,  237, 

238. 
Photo-diaphanic  process  of  transferring,  302. 

-emulsions,  Vogel's  improvements  in,  302. 
Photographic  baths,  300,  301,  305,  307. 

developers,  298,  299,  301,  305-307. 

developing  solution,  299. 

emulsion,  301. 

emulsions,  298,  300-302,  306. 

lacquers,  308. 

negatives,  varnish  for,  212. 

plates,  intensifier  for,  299. 

plates,  new  developer  for,  301 . 

purposes,  artificial  ivory  for,  43. 

process  with  phosphorescent  substances, 
303. 

reproduction.  303,  304. 

varnishes,  307. 
Photographs,  email,  300. 

enamelled,  300. 


484 


INDEX. 


Photographs  on  wood,  308. 

transferring  to  glass,  434. 
Photography,  298-308. 

rapid  method  for,  304,  305. 

use  of  gelatine  in,  298-305,  307. 

various  practical  receipts  for,  306-308. 
Photo-lithographic  transfer  paper,  276. 

-negatives,  fluid  for,  301. 

-negatives,  reproduction  of,  305,  306. 

-operating  room,  painting  the,  301. 

-paper,  sensitive,  306. 

-plates,  Petchlers'  new  method  of  prepar- 
ing, 302. 

-printing  receipts,  301. 

-printing  without  a  press,  302,  303. 
Phylloxera,  to  destroy,  163. 
Phytochromotypy,  423,  424. 
Picture  frame  composition,  62. 

frames,  imitation  of  marble  for,  183. 
Piffard's  galvano-plastic  silvering,  112. 
Pigment,  white  or  black,  from  the  clarifying 

slime  in  sugar-houses,  376. 
Pigments,  266-272. 

innoxious  for  toys,  270,  271. 
Pills,  female,  294. 
Pinchbeck,  composition  of,  3. 

origin  of  name,  3. 
Pine    needles,   a    substitute    for    hair,    etc.. 

157. 

Pins  with  glass  heads  of  a  coppery  appear- 
ance, 431,  432. 
Pipes,  leaden  water,  to  coat,  445. 

steam,  cement  for,  63. 
Pistol-stocks,  composition  for,  183. 
Pistons,  from  buffalo  skins,  178. 
Pitch,  223. 

asphaltum,  lampblack  from,  371,  372. 

blacksmiths',  from  coal-tar,  257. 

brewers',  223. 

hop, 223. 

ointment,  167. 

varnish  for  buildings,  208,  209. 
Plant  slips,  collodion  for,  165. 
Plaster,  clay,  53. 

for  ceilings,  416. 

for  damp  walls,  53. 

galbanum  and  saffron,  297. 

gelatine,  296. 

Kahl's  patented,  416. 

of  Paris  casts  which  can  be  washed,  308- 
310. 

of  Paris  figures,  bronzes  for,  45. 

soap,  298. 
Plasters,  lead,  297. 

sticking,  297. 
Plastic  bandage,  297. 

masses,   treatment  of  pyroxyline    in   the 
manufacture  of,  58,  59. 

models,  mass  for,  417, 
Plated  ware,  solder,  silver,  for,  339. 
Plate  glass,  manufacture  of,  432-434. 

glass,  of  the  mirror  manufactory  at  Aix  la 

Chapelle,  142. 
Plates,  developers  for,  299. 
Plating  with  aluminium,  111. 

with  nickel,  107-109. 
Platinizing  copper  and  brass,  Jewreinoff  on, 

glass  and  porcelain,  434. 
metals,  110,  111. 
Platinotypy,  recent  improvement  in,  304. 


Platinum  and  bismuth  alloy,  4. 

bronze,  alloy,  5. 

fulminating,  33,  34. 

palladium,  and  copper  alloy,  403. 
Playing  cards,  lacquer  for,  209. 
Plumes,  description  of,  118. 
Plush,  feather,  344. 

restoring  of,  420. 
Poch's  pudrolith,  30. 
Poisonous  paints,  271. 
Polish  for  carved  work,  209,  210. 

for  wood,  394. 

French,  209,  210. 

harness,  436. 

liquid,  for  silver-plated  ware,  419. 

new,  for  wood,  419. 

water,  23. 

whiskey,  23. 
Polishing  agents,  75-78. 

metal,  rags  for,  419. 

of  wood,  211. 

pastes  for  metals,  77. 

powder  for  glass  and  metal,  76. 

powder  for  plate,  77. 

powder  for  silverware,  78. 

powder,  Louget's,  76. 

rags  for  metals,  77. 

soaps  and  pastes,  420. 

substances  for  glass,  433,  434. 

wax,  387. 

wax  for  woods,  398. 

wax,  Wabeck's,  77. 
Polygraphic  method  of  copying,  87,  88. 
Pomades,  287,  288. 

Poplar  tree,  new  dye  from  shoots  of,  107. 
Poppy  seed  oil,  to  purify,  25J. 

seed,  white,  yield  of  oil,  2. 
Porcelain  and  glass,  water-glass  and  casein* 
cement  for,  382. 

and  glass,  water-glass  cement  for,  382. 

black  and  colored  lead-pencils  for,  432. 

cement  for,  63. 

fire  and  water-proof  cement  for,  63. 

gilding  of,  90. 

new  solder  for,  441. 

painting,  fusible  colors  used  in,  137-141. 

painting,  green  borate  of  copper  for,  268. 

platinizing,  434. 

to  give  it  a  marbled  or  granite  appearance, 

Portocarero  tobacco,  351. 
Porto  Rico  tobacco,  351. 
Port  wine,  231. 

Positive  paper  for  photographers,  298. 
Postage  stamps,  paste  for,  68. 
Posts,  wooden,  new  paint  for,  397. 
Potash,  caustic,  to  purify  water,  72. 
Potash,  effect  of  on  oil  paintings,  258. 
from  sheep's  wool,  450. 
percentage  of  in  lye,  table  of,  335. 
water-glass  as  a  binding  and  fixing  me- 
dium for  ground  colors  on  cotton  goods, 
380. 
water-glass,    substitute    for    albumen    in 

printing  with  ultramarine,  380. 
water-glass,  to  prepare,  378. 
Potassium  acetate,  to  prepare,  74. 

ferrocyanide,  Johnson's   process  and  ap- 
paratus for  manufacturing,  70. 
Potatoes  and  other  tubers,  to  preserve,  311, 
312. 


INDEX. 


485 


Potatoes,  pressed  yeast  From,  401. 
Potato  flour  for  soups,  130. 

flour,  to  prepare,  157. 

starch,  blasting  compound  from,  31. 
Powder,  Augendre's  white,  30. 

blasting,  Green's,  31. 

blasting,  new,  425. 

cleaning,  for  show  windows,  419. 

copper  colored  bronze,  45. 

for  cannon  of  large  cajibre — Spence's,  31. 

for  polishing  silver,  78. 

giant,  32. 

giant,  new  method  of  preparing,  425. 

Koeben's  healing,  57. 

non-explosive,  31. 

tooth,    preparation  of  precipitated  chalk 

for,  446. 
Powders,  bronze,  45. 

cosmetic,  292. 

pudding,  130. 

sneezing,  354. 

washing,  370. 
Powell's  improvements  in  nickel-plating,  108, 

109. 

Precious  stones,  to  cleanse,  78. 
Preservative  agents,  405-408. 

papers,  315. 

salt,  to  prepare  a,  311. 

Preserving  meat,  milk,  vegetables,  vegetable 
substances,   wood,  etc.,    and  preserva- 
tives, 310-316. 
Pressed  yeast  from  potatoes,  401. 

yeast,  Otto's  method   of  manufacturing, 

401. 

Prince's  metal,  composition  of,  3. 
Princesses,  eau  des,  22. 
Printed  matter,  fire-proof,  454. 
Printers'  ink  with  coal-tar  varnish  oil,  190. 

rollers,  201,  202. 

rollers,  from  glue  and  glycerine,  156. 

varnish,  with  coal-tar  varnish  oil,  190. 
Printing  and  copying,  86-89. 

autographic  method  of,  86. 

bronze  color,  for  direct  upon   paper,  oil- 
cloth, etc.,  190,  191. 

colors,  German  patent,  190. 

colors,  paste  for,  187. 

in  colors,  86,  87. 

ink  containing  iron,  190. 

ink  from  coal-tar,  190. 

ink,  good,  the  properties  which  it  must 
possess,  187,  188. 

fnk,  new  process  for,  190. 

ink,  the  manufacture  of,  187-190. 

plates,  celluloid,  416,  417. 

preparation  of  surfaces  for,  345. 
Prints,  lacquer  for,  209. 
Prinze's  soap-boiling  tables,  336. 
Prismatic  colors,  140. 
Pudding  powders,  130. 
Puddings,    vanilla,    almond,    and    chocolate, 

130. 

Pudrolith,  Poch's,  30. 
Pulverize  glass,  to,  146. 
Pumice  soap,  332. 
Pump  pistons,    to  make  from  buffalo  skins, 

178. 

Punch  drops,  84. 
Purple  colors,  how  composed,  3. 

colors,  test  for,  3. 
Putties,  pastes,  and  cements,  63-69. 


Putty  for  wood  floors,  67. 

for  wood  lime,  67. 

wood,  and  glue,  67. 

wood,  and  oil,  67. 
Pyrogallic  acid,  to  prepare,  306. 
Pyroleine  lubricant,  233. 
Pyrolith,  Wattlen's,  30. 
Pyrotechnic  and  explosive  substances,  424. 
Pyroxyline,  treatment  of,  in  the  manufacture 
of  plastic  masses,  58,  59. 

Quesnot's  artificial  stone,  49. 
Quillaya  dentifrice,  95. 
Quince  essence,  16. 
Quittico  cordial,  23. 

Rabbit  skins,  to  dye,  219. 
Racachout  des  Arabes,  57. 
Raisin  wine,  159. 


Rancid  butter,  to 


,  168. 


fat,  to  purify,  168. 
Ransome's  artificial  stone,  50. 

patent  apoenite,  50,  51. 
Rape  seed,  yield  of  oil  in,  2. 
Rappee  snuff,  354. 
Raspberry  bon-bons,  81. 

extract,  16. 

vinegar,  362. 

water,  16. 

wine,  160. 
Ratafia,  apple,  26. 

Barbadoes,  25,  26. 

celery,  27. 

chinoise,  26. 

citronat,  26. 

claret,  26. 

cocoa,  26. 

de  Grenoble,  26. 

English  bitters,  26. 

fennel,  26. 

ginger,  26. 

mulberry,  26. 

orange,  26. 

pear,  26. 

Scotch,  27. 

stomachic,  26,  27. 

vanilla,  27. 

wormwood,  27. 
Ratafias,  25-27. 

bitters,  cordials,  and  liqueurs,  17-27. 
Ratan,  to  substitute  for  whalebone,  183, 
Rats,  paste  for  destroying,  162. 

to  clear  from  buildings,  162. 
Razor  strops,  composition  for,  63. 
Reale  aqua,  18. 
Receipts  for  coloring  bones,  horn,  ivory,  etc., 

41,  42. 
Red  bronze  for  turned  articles,  8. 

chrome,  269. 

cloths,  cleansing  salt  for,  365. 

color  for  jellies,  85. 

color  for  sweetmeats,  85. 

copper  bronze  on  tin,  46. 

crayons,  79. 

dyes,  affected  by  boiling,  3. 

dyes,  effect  upon  soap  solution  and  upoa 
lime-water,  3. 

inks,  198-200. 

tooth  powder,  95. 

Vandyke,  270. 

wine,  alum  in,  3. 


486 


INDEX. 


Refining  cotton-seed  oil,  451. 

nickel,  441. 

Refractory  solders,  338. 
Reichardt's  rosin  compound  for  gilding  paper, 

leather,  etc.,  411. 
Remedy  for  warts,  160. 
Renovating  agents,  75-78. 
Renovator,  furniture,  419. 
Residues  of  colors,  to  regain  indigo  from,  377. 
Restoring  pictures,  colors  for,  271,  272. 


Retorts 


ng  pic.  i 
,  glass, 


cement  for,  63. 


Ribbons,  silk,   mixed  with    gold    and   silver 
threads,  to  wash,  362. 

silk,  to  wash,  362. 

Riber's  process  of  gilding  leather,  41. 
Rice  soap,  332. 
Riley,  Prof.   C.    V.,  recommendation  of,   for 

destruction  of  potato-bugs,  etc.,  162. 
Rivets,  bronze  for,  8. 
Roach  and  moth  exterminator,  446. 
Roasted  almonds,  83. 

filberts,  83. 

malt,  substitute  for  coffee,  157. 
Robandi  process  for  brise-rocs,  30. 
Robertson's  alloy  for  filling  teeth,  3. 
Roelandt's  water-proofing  compounds,  385. 
Roger  on  the  presence  of  aluminium  in  steel,  5. 
Roger's  preventive  of  incrustation,  40. 
Rollers,  printers',  156,  201,202. 
Roofing,  mass  for,  416. 

oil  cement  paint,  52. 
Roofs,  glass,  to  make  water-tight,  55. 

paint  for,  265. 
Root  beer,  160. 

Ropes,  to  make  incombustible,  124. 
Rose  essence,  16. 

leaves,  preservation  of,  15. 

soap,  332. 

sweetmeat,  82. 
Rosemary  cordial,  23,  24. 

essence,  16. 
Rosewater,  16. 

Rosewood,  to  grain  imitation  of,  261 ,  262. 
Rosin,  as  protection  against  moisture  in  walls, 
164. 

oil  and  its  uses,  248,  249. 

oil,  to  deodorize,  252. 

soap,  327,  328. 
Rosoli,  bitter,  18. 
Rossolio  de  Turin,  24. 
Rostopschin,  2t. 
Rotting,  to  prevent,  164. 
Rouge  for  jewellers,  77. 
Rouges,  292. 

Rough-cast  walls,  water-glass  for,  381. 
Rubber  and  asbestos  packing,  62. 

combs,  cement  for,  61. 

corks,  to  cut  and  pierce,  164. 

corks,  to  restore,  377. 

hose,  how  to  soften,  60. 

hose,  to  render  odorless,  447. 

shoes  and  boots,  cement  for,  61. 

stamps,  manufacture  of,  59,  60. 

substitute  for  hard,  174. 

upon  metals,  cement  for  fastening,  64. 
Ruby,  Schrader's  mixture  for,  10. 

Splittgerber's  mixture  for,  10. 
Rum,  to  manufacture,  229. 
Russia  leather,  to  imitate  the  smell  of,  220, 

221. 
Rust  and  ink  stains,  to  remove,  75. 


Rust  on  iron,  to  prevent,  164. 

stains,  to  remove  from  clothes  by  tin  salt. 

368. 
to    protect   iron   metal  roofs,   wire,  etc., 

from,  242,  243. 

to  remove  from  iron  and  steel,  76. 
Rusting  in  of  screws,  preventing,  443. 
Rutabagas,  manure  for,  169. 
Ruthay's  process  for  making  glue  from  tan- 
nery waste,  152. 

Sable  skins,  imitation  of,  220. 
Sacking,  to  make  water-proof,  383. 
Safety  paper,  274,  275. 

paste  for  post-office,  69. 
Saffron  plaster,  297,  298. 
Sage  essence,  16. 
Sago  jelly,  85. 

Sail-cloth,  to  make  pliable  and  water-proof, 
265. 

water-proof,  386. 
Saillard's  receipt  for  removing  and  preventing 

incrustations,  39. 

Salt,  mixtures  for  galvanic  coppering,  bronzing, 
etc.,  114. 

preservative,  311. 

Saltpetre,  use  of  to  separate  iron  from  alumin- 
ium, 5. 

Sands,  colored,  201. 
Sand  soap,  330,  331. 
Sandstone,  cement  for  repairing,  64. 

marbleizing,  53. 

steps,  to  repair,  54. 
to  make  tough  and  impermeable,  54. 
Sapphire,  formula  for,  10. 
Satin,  to  wash,  362. 

wood,  to  grain  imitation  of,  262. 
Satori's  process  of  silvering   Bessemer  steel, 

112. 

Saucers  and  glasses,  to  cleanse,  76. 
Savin  ointment,  167. 
Savon  de  Riz,  332. 

ess.  bouquet,  332. 

orange,  332. 

Sawdust,  utilization  of,  416. 
Saws  and  springs,  to  harden,  240,  241. 

to  solder,  340. 

Schaeffer's  artificial  stone,  49. 
Schrader's  flux,  components  of,  9. 

mixture  for  ruby,  10. 
School  slates,  artificial  slating  for,  177. 
Schottler's  artificial  cement,  52. 
Schubert's  method  of  manufacturing  pressed 

yeast,  399,  400. 
Scotch  ratafia,  27. 
Scouring  and  washing,  362-370. 

fluid,  le  Francois,  75. 

soap,  76. 

soap  for  cotton  and  silk  goods,  76. 

soap  for  glass  mirrors,  77. 

soap,  green,  76,  77. 

soaps,  black  and  green,  76. 

water  for  removing  grease  stains,  75. 
Scubac,  24. 

Scurvy  grass  sweetmeat,  83. 
Screw  bolts,  zincing  of,  443,  444. 
Screws,  to  prevent  from  rusting-in,  443. 
Sealing  wax  and  wafers,  316-319. 
Seaweed  leather,  177. 

lubricant,  234. 

soap, 177. 


INDEX. 


487 


Seaweeds  for  leather,  soap,  and  glue,  177. 
Sebacic  acids,  production  of,  from  crude  cot- 
ton-seed oil,  or  from  its  residues,  451. 
Seed,  black  mustard,  yield  of  oil  by,  2. 


flax,  yield  of  oil  by,  2. 
hemp,  yield  of  oil  by,  2 
rape,  yield  of  oil  by,  2. 


watermelon,  yield  of  oil  by,  2. 
white  mustard,  yield  of  oil  by,  2. 
white  poppy,  yield  of  oil  by,  2. 
Seeds,  percentage  of  oil  in,  1,  2. 

yield  of  per  cent,  of  oil,  2. 
Sensitive  photo-paper,  306. 
Sept  graines,  eau  de,  22. 
Serpents,  Pharaoh's,  128. 
Serviette  magique,  for  metals,  77. 
Sevilla  snuff,  353. 
Shafts,  lubricants  for,  232. 
Shale  oil,  residues  of,  247. 
Sharp  and  Smith's  patent  gunpowder,  31. 
Sharpening  stone  for  pencils,  177. 
Shaving  cream,  446,  447. 

soap,  334. 

Sheepskins,  to  dye,  219,  220. 
Shellac,  to  bleach,  37,  38. 
Shell,  tortoise,  cement  for,  65. 

tortoise,  dyeing,  how  to  imitate,  43,  44. 
Shellinger's  artificial  stone,  50. 
Sheet-iron,  enamel  for,  116. 
Sheet-metal,  to  lacquer,  244,  245. 
Ships'  bottoms,  to  protect,  266. 
Shoddy,  how  made,  347,  348. 
Shoe  blacking,  dressings,  etc.,  319-322. 

blacking,  good,  requirements  for,  319,  320. 

dressings,  319-322. 

Shoes   and   boots,    French   process  of  water- 
proofing, 385. 

Shoemakers,  gutta-percha  solution  for,  60. 
Shoemakers'  wax  from  coal-tar  oils,  257. 
Short  hair,  utilization  of,  348. 
Show  windows,  cleansing  powder  for,  419. 

windows,  gilding  on,  148. 
Shrinking  of  wood,  396. 
Sign  painting,  148,  149. 
Signs,  glass  and  other,  147-149. 
Silex  soap,  328. 
Silica-hydrate,  purification  of  sugar  beet  juice 

by,  344. 
Silicium,  242. 

Silk    and    cotton    goods,   soap  for    removing 
stains,  76. 

and  silk  fabrics,  to  wash,  363. 

and  woollen  fabrics,  to  restore  the  color 
of,  366. 

bleaching  of,  36. 

cleansing  old,  95,  96. 

cloth,  and  hats,  scouring  soap  for,  76. 

cotton,   and    wool,  to    dye    with    aniline 
colors,  100-105. 

damasks,  to  wash,  362. 

dresses,  to  wash,  366. 

dyeing  of,  95,  96. 

gauze,  348. 

gilding  on,  412. 

goods,  soap  for  washing,  334. 

ribbons  mixed  with  gold  and  silver  thread, 
to  wash,  362. 

ribbons,  to  wash,  362. 

silvering  or  gilding,  92. 

stockings,  to  wash,  3'i4. 

to  remove  ink  stains  from,  75, 


Silk,  to  remove  oil  from,  346. 

to   remove   tar,   grease,   oil,  and   varnish 

from,  75. 
Silver,  alloys  resembling,  8,  403. 

and  aluminium  alloys,  4. 

and  gold  lace,  to  polish,  364. 

and  gold  lace,  to  wash,  362,  363. 

bath,  Sutton's,  306. 

Chinese,  alloy,  7. 

fulminate  of,  33. 

hard,  receipt  for,  241. 

oxidized,  4  U,  442. 

polishing  powder  for,  78. 

size,  preparation  of,  91. 

solder,  338. 

to  cleanse,  78. 

to  regain  from  gelatine  emulsions,  305. 

to  restore  the  lustre  of,  260. 
Silvered  dial  plates,  to  cleanse,  421. 

telescopic  mirrors,  113. 
Silvering,  91. 

and  gilding,  detection  of  imitations,  2. 

and  gilding  leather,  445. 

and  gilding  silk,  cotton,  and  woollen  yarns, 
92. 

galvano  plastic,  112. 

gilding,  bronzing,  etc.,  412-415. 

iron  and  steel,  113. 

metals,  Adrielle's  process,  112. 

new  alloy  for,  404. 

of  copper,  112,113. 

of  steel,  112. 

on  glass,  148. 

steel,  Satori's  process,  112. 

tincture,  112. 

Silver-plated  ware,  liquid  polish  for,  419. 
Silverware,  to  clean,  420. 
Size,  a  new,  from  starch,  324. 

for  bonnet  frames,  326,  327. 

for  laces,  326. 

for  woollen  goods,  327. 
Sizes  for  linen,  326. 
Sizing  and  dressing  for  cotton,  wool,   straw, 

etc.  ,322-327. 
Skins  and  hides,  to  improve,  217. 

animal,  dyeing  and  patterning,  219. 

animal,  preparation,  free  from  arsenic,  for 
preserving,  408. 

animal,  to  preserve,  161. 

naturally  white,  to  dye,  220. 

to  preserve  and  make  water-proof,  216, 217. 
Slag,  cement  from,  51,  52. 
Slate,  substitute  for,  182. 

to  polish,  78. 

Slating  for  blackboards,  etc.,  177. 
Sleigh  bells,  American,  5. 
Smoked  beef,  315. 

Smoking  tobacco,  Turkish,  354,  355. 
Smoky  walls,  to  clean,  421. 
Sneezing  powders,  354. 
Snuff  manufacture,  353,  354. 
Soap  balsam  for  sprains,  296. 
soap-boiling  table,  Prinz's  practical,  336. 
Soap,  cocoanut  oil  and  molasses,  329,  330. 
cold  water,  329. 
creams,  332,  333. 
effect  of,  on  oil  paintings,  258. 
elaine,  329. 

fat  of  bones  for,  250,  251. 
floating,  329. 
for  frosted  limbs,  332. 


48$ 


INDEX. 


Soap  for  washing  silk  goods,  334. 

for  water-proofing  woollen  cloth  and  other 
fabrics,  383. 

from  cotton-seed  oil,  to  remove  the  disa- 
greeable odor  of,  451. 

from  seaweeds,  177. 

hard  and  soft  soaps ,  medicated  and  toilet 
soaps,  etc.,  327-336. 

liniment,  107. 

molasses,  329. 

Oranienburg,  330. 

paper,  preparation  of,  455. 

plaster,  298. 

preparation  of,  from  crude  cotton-seed  oil, 
or  from  residues  obtained  bj  its  purifica- 
tion, 451. 

rosin,  327, 328. 

sand,  330,  331. 

scouring,  76. 

silex,  328. 

soft,  329. 

varnish  for  gilding,  423. 

varnishes,  423. 

wax,  387,  388. 
Soaps,  American,  327,  328. 

medicated  and  toilet,  331-335. 

neutral,  330. 

polishing,  420. 

scouring,  76,  77. 

water-glass,  330. 

Sobrero's  process  for  dynamite,  29. 
Soda,  caustic,  to  purify  water,  72. 

lye,  caustic,  to  prepare,  335. 

percentage  of,  in  lyes,  tables  of,  335. 

•water-glass  for  protecting  white  colors  in 
printing  fabrics,  379. 

water-glass,  preparations  of,  378. 
Soft  solder,  337. 
Solder,  brass,  hard,  337. 

copper  as  a,  (or  iron,  337. 

for  argentan,  337,  338. 

for  brass  and  sheet  tin,  339. 

for  Britannia  metal,  339. 

for  German  silver,  337,  338. 

for  gold  on  aluminium  bronze,  339. 

for  iron  and  steel,  339. 

for  pewter,  339. 

for  steel  on  sheet-iron,  340. 

hard,  339. 

hard,  containing  tin,  337. 

hard,  soft,  and  bismuth,  337. 

hard  white,  339. 

liquefiable,  338. 

new,  for  metal,  glass,  and  porcelain,  44T. 

refractory,  338. 

silver,  338. 

silver,  for  plated  ware,  339. 

soft,  339. 

soft,  to  color  yellow,  415. 
Soldering  and  solders,  336-340. 

autogenous,  337. 

liquid,  causing  no  rust,  340. 

liquid,  free  from  acid,  340. 

small  articles,  340. 

saws,  340. 

without  a  soldering  iron,  340. 
Solders  for  articles  to  be  enamelled,  338. 

for  gold,  338. 

hard,  337-339. 

hard  yellow,  339. 

soft,  337,  339. 


Solders,  tables  of,  337-339. 
Sole  leather,  imitations  of,  183. 
Soles,  shoe,  to  improve  the  appearance  of,  322. 
Solid  inks,  194, 199. 
Soluble  glass  and  its  uses,  378-382. 
Solutions,  caoutchouc,  299. 
Sorel's  artificial  stone,  50. 
Sounding-board  wood,  extraction  and  impreg- 
nation of,  369. 
Soup  extract,  129. 

tablets,  129. 
Soya  aqua  vitae,  24. 
Spanish  bitters,  24. 

bitters  essence,  16. 
Spavin,  remedy  for,  294. 
Spence's  metal,  405. 

powder  for  cannon  of  large  calibre,  31. 
Spermaceti  ointment,  167. 
Spiced  chocolate,  56,  57. 

vinegar,  361. 
Spice  for  lozenges,  84. 
Spindles,  oil  for,  234. 
Soirit  gold  lac  varnishes,  206,  207. 

lacquers,  205. 

of  wine,  to  produce  from  wine-lees    rf75. 

376. 

Splittgerber's  mixture  for  ruby,  10. 
Sponges,  to  bleach,  37. 
Spontaneous    combustion,    experiments    with 

oils  in  regard  to,  438. 
Spoons  and  forks,  alloys  for,  6. 
Spoonwort  sweetmeat,  83. 
Sprains,  balsam  for,  296. 
Springs  and  saws,  to  harden,  240,  241. 
Spring  steel,  lacquer  for,  211. 
Spruce  beer,  160. 
Stables,  to  purify  the  air  in,  168. 
Stained  wood,  to  cleanse,  164. 
Stain  for  walking  canes,  392. 
Staining  maple  wood  silver-gray,  392,  393. 

metals,  receipts  for,  243,  244. 

wood  for  fine  cabinet  work,  391. 

wood  for  veneers,  mosaics,  etc.,  393,  394. 
Stains,  ebony,  393. 

for  papers,  279-281. 

for  veneers,  393. 

for  willow-ware,  458-460. 

ink,  to  remove,  75. 

ink,  to  remove  from  silk,  75. 

means  of  removing,  369. 

mildew,  wine,  or  fruit,  to  remove,  7ft. 

rust,  to  remove  from  clothes,  308. 

to  remove  from  books,  77. 

wine  and  vinegar  soap  for,  76. 
Stamp  color,  blue,  80. 
Stamping  ink,  200. 

ink,  containing  iron,  190. 
Stamps,  postage,  paste  for,  68. 

rubber,  manufacture  of,  59,  60. 
Starch,  crimson  dye,  365. 

dye,  365. 

gloss,  370. 

glucose  and  dextrose,  Jepp's  process  of 
manufacturing,  341-343. 

sugar,  refining  of,  341. 
Statuary  bronze,  8. 
St.  Vincent  Rappee  snuff,  354. 
Steam  glues,  154. 

pipes,  cement  for,  63. 

pipes,  earths  for  insulating,  137. 

pipes,  heat  insulating  coverings  for,  137. 


INDEX. 


Stearine  candles,  cheap  mode  of  making,  173. 
Steel  and  iron,  black  polish  for,  210. 
and  iron,  silvering  of,  113. 
and  iron,  solder  for,  339. 
and  iron,  staining,  243,  244. 
and  iron,  to  cleanse  from  rust,  76. 
bath  for  coppering,  115. 
bath  for  nickelling,  109. 
blue  bronze  en  brass,  46. 
cast,  to  restore  burnt,  238. 
copper,  242. 
damaskeening,  89. 
etched  with  sulphuric  acid,  5. 
gilding  of,  413,  414. 
hardening  composition  for,  439. 
hardening  water  for,  240. 
instruments,  to  harden,  239. 
mechanically  hardened,  441. 
on  sheet-iron,  solder,  340. 
pens,  inks  for,  195,  196. 
Poncelet's  fluids  for  hardening,  240. 
silvering  of,  112. 
thin,    Hartmann's    hardening    compound 

for,  240. 

to  convert  iron  into,  241. 
to  harden  in  sealing  wax,  240. 
to  soften,  238. 
welding,  239. 

wire  for  musical  instruments,  241. 
Stein's  receipts  for  compositions  of  glass,  as 
actually  used  in  various  glass   works, 
142-144. 

Steps,  sandstone,  to  repair,  54. 
Stereotyping,  paper  matrices  for,  115. 
Sternutative  powders,  354. 
Stettin  bitters,  24. 

Stickiness   of   dried  caoutchouc,   how  to   re- 
move, 60. 

Sticking  plasters,  297. 
Stockings,  silk,  to  wash,  364. 
Stomach  bitters,  24,  25. 
bitters,  Vienna,  25. 
Stomachic  elixir,  295. 
lozenges,  84. 
ratafia,  26,  27. 

Stone  and  brick  walls,  to  protect  from  moist- 
ure, 164. 

and  wood,  wash  for,  164,  165. 
artificial  building,  49. 
artificial,  for  filtering,  71. 
cement  for  fastening  iron  on,  64. 
cheap  paint  for,  263. 
cork,  415. 
substitute  for,  176. 
troughs,  cement  for,  64. 
walls,  water-glass  for,  381. 
water-proof  paint  for,  264. 
Stones,  building,  51. 

porous,  to  make  tough  and  impermeable, 

54. 

precious,  to  cleanse,  78. 
silicifying  of,  by  water-glass,  379. 
Stonework,  to  prevent  disintegration  of,  264, 

265. 

Stop  cocks,  metal,  composition  for,  7. 
Storax  pills,  295. 
Stove  polish,  169. 
Stoves,  iron,  cement  for,  66. 
Stramonium  pastils,  293. 
Strass,  basis  of  artificial  gems,  10. 
compositions  for,  143,  144. 


Strawberry  extract,  16. 

vinegar,  362. 

Straw,  bleaching  and  dyeing  of,  455,  456. 
dyes,  456. 

goods,  to  dye,  with  aniline  colors,  104. 
hats,  to  cleanse,  76. 
hats,  washing,  366,  367,  447. 
preparation  of,  in  making  paper,  273,  274. 
to  bleach,  38. 

to  make  incombustible,  124. 
Strengthening  tincture,  16. 
Strength  of  materials,  456-458. 
Strontia  sugar  from  treacle  and  syrup,  344. 
Strops,  razor,  composition  for,  63. 
Stumps,  tree,  to  destroy,  165. 
Submarine  works,  paint  for,  263. 
Substitute  for  caoutchouc,  new,  417,  418. 

for  gutta-percha,  418. 
Substitutes,  imitations,  etc.,  174-184. 
Sudorate,  potassic,  in  sheep's  wool,  450. 
Sugar  and  dextrine  in  malt,  221 . 
and  lime  paste,  68. 
beet  juice,  clarification  of,  344. 
beets,  to  preserve,  311. 
house  clarifying  slime,  pigments  from.  376. 
malt,  80. 

of  milk,  340,  341. 
oil,  to  prepare,  80. 
orange,  80. 
strontia,  preparation  of,  from  treacle  and 

syrup, 344. 

syrups,  to  clarify,  135. 
Sugars,  glucose,  etc.,  340-344. 
Suint,  450. 
Sulphate  of  barium,  preparation  of,  for  sizing, 

327. 

of  copper,  to  prepare,  74. 
Sulpho-cyanic  acid,  to  prepare,  73. 
Sulphur,  from  gas  lime,  376. 
liver  of,  to  prepare,  74 
ointments,  167. 
soap,  333. 

Sulphuric  acid,  adulterating  vinegar  with,  2. 
acid  and  sulphur,  to  remove  from  refined 

oils,  256. 

acid,  from  gas  lime,  376. 
Sunflower  seed  oil,  252. 

Surgical  bandage,  plastic  pasteboa/d  for.  276. 
Swedish  matches,  composition  of,  236. 

matches,  striking  surface,  236. 
Sweetmeat,  Angelica,  82. 
antiscorbutic,  83. 
carnation,  82. 
cherry,  82. 
chocolate,  81. 
cinnamon,  82. 
filbert,  82. 
heliotrope,  82. 
jasmine,  82. 
lemon,  82. 
love,  82,  83. 
orange,  81. 
orange-blossom,  82. 
peppermint,  82. 
rose,  82. 

scurvy  grass,  83. 
spoonwort,  83. 
sweet  smelling,  83. 
vanilla,  82. 
violet,  83. 
water-cress,  83. 


400 


INDEX. 


Sweetmeats  (conserves),  81. 

medicinal,  83-86. 

red  color  for,  86. 
Sweet  smelling  sweetmeat,  83. 
Swicent  tobacco,  351. 
Swiss  cordial,  25. 

herb  soap,  333. 
Sympathic  colors,  273. 
Sympathetic  ink,  200. 

Syrups    for    lemonades    and   mineral  waters, 
134,  13&. 

fruit  and  other,  134-136. 

how  to  clarify,  135. 

Tables,  Graham's  bronzing  liquids,  47,  48. 
Tablets,  soup,  1^9. 
Tabourey  elixir,  17. 
Taffeta,  black,  to  wash,  364. 

to  wash,  364. 
Tallow,  adulteration  of  wax  with,  2. 

and  lard,  to  prevent  becoming  rancid,  168. 

and  lard,  to  purify,  169. 

bleaching,  448,  449. 

candles,  Juneman's  process  of  manufact- 
ure, 172, 173. 

candles,  to  coat  with  a  hard  substance, 
171,  172. 

to  bleach  and  harden,  37. 
Tannery  waste,  Ruthay's  process  for  making 

glue  from,  152. 
Tannin  black,  for  printing  ink,  191 

method  of  extracting,  71. 

plates,  299. 

soap, 333. 

solution  of,  299. 
Tanning  linen,  hempen  and  cotton  fabrics,  220. 

liquor,  heating,  215. 

new  process  of  Ballatschano  and  Trenck, 
214. 

processes,  quick,  214-216. 
Tapers,  wax,  388. 
Tapioca  jelly,  85. 
Tar,  from  gases  of  coke  ovens,  374,  375. 

from  nitrogeneous  organic  substances,  377. 

oils,  nitrating  for  blasting  compounds,  33. 

ointment.  167. 

paper,  276,  277. 

soap,  333. 

to  extract  oil  from,  251. 

to  remove  from  silk,  75. 

varnish,  211. 

wood,  for  decorations,  93. 
Tartar,  cream  of,  to  prepare,  73. 

emetic  ointment,  167. 

substitute  for,  in  dyeing  wool,  105. 
Tartaric  acid,  adulterating  vinegar  with,  2. 
Tartrate  of  calcium,  to  produce  from  wine  lees, 

375,  376. 

Tawed  leather,  to  dye,  217,  218. 
Tawing,  yelks  of  eggs  in,  to  preserve,  217. 
Tea  and  coffee  trays,  to  clean,  78. 

beef,  to  prepare,  165,  166. 
Teapots,  alloys  for,  3. 
Teeth,  cement  for  filling,  68,  69. 

Robertson's  alloy  for  filling,  3. 
Telegraph  paper,  electro-chemical,  277. 
Telescopes,  alloy  for,  5. 
Telescopic  mirrors,  silvered,  113. 
Terra-cotta  lumber,  416. 

Test  for  detection  of  water  in  essential  oils, 
449. 


Testing  lubricating  oils,  436-438. 

oils,  Maumene's  process  of,  257. 
Tests  for  foreign  substances  in  beer,  223-226. 
Textile  fabrics  and  tissues,  344-349. 
fabrics,  effect  of  heat  upon,  344. 
fabrics,  to  coat  with  metallic  substances, 

344. 

fabrics,  to  render  water-,  rot-,  and  insect- 
proof,  453,  454. 
fabrics,  to  water-proof,  384. 
Thaw,  frozen  ground,  to,  70,  71. 
Theatre  scenes,  to  make  incombustible,  124. 
Thermaline,  297. 
Thiem's  bitters,  25. 

Thurston's    autographic    torsion  testing   ma- 
chine, 456-458. 
machine  for  testing  lubricating  oils,  436- 

438. 

Tiles,  to  paint  red,  266. 
Timbers,  mine,  preparation  of,  395,  396. 
relative  durability  of  mine,  395,  396. 
Tin  and  aluminium  alloys,  4. 
bath  for  nickelling,  109. 
enamel,  144. 

red  copper  bronze  on,  46. 
roofs,  durable  paint  for,  264. 
salt,  for  removing  rust  stains,  368. 
to  decorate  with  copper  plates  and  litho- 
graphs, 94. 
Tincture,  absinthe,  13. 
anise-seed,  13. 
aromatic,  13. 
calamus,  14. 

of  litmus,  to  prepare,  71. 
silvering,  112. 
strengthening,  16. 
vanilla,  16. 

Tinctures,  extracts,  essences,  and  waters,  13-16. 
Tinfoil,  substitute  for,  178. 
Tinning,  cold,  114. 

cooking  utensils,  114. 
of  cast-iron,  113,  114. 
of  tissues,  348. 

Tin-plates,  bath  for  nickelling,  109. 
Tinsmiths,  varnish  for,  208. 
Tissier  on  the  effect  of  iron  in  aluminium,  5. 
Tissues  and  fabrics,  344-349. 
bleaching  woollen,  35,  36. 
cleansing  fluid  for,  368. 
incombustible,  123,  124. 
tinning  of,  348. 

to  make  incombustible,  122-124. 
to    size   with  alkaline  solutions   of    silk, 

wool,  or  feathers,  325. 
to  water-proof,  382. 

various  processes  of  water-proofing,  383. 
Tivoli  cordial,  25. 
Tobacco,  American,  to  give  it  the  flavor  of 

Havana,  354,  355. 
apparatus  for  testing  percentage  of  nicotine 

in,  74. 

Brazilian,  349. 
canasters,  350. 
Chinese  or  star,  350. 
improvement  of  inferior  qualities  of,  352, 

363. 

"  Legitimo,"  349. 
new  process  of  preparing,  355. 
petum  optimum,  351. 
Portocarero,  351. 
Porlo  Rico,  361. 


INDEX. 


491 


Tobacco,  preparation  of  leaf,  for  cigars,  355. 

smoking  tobacco,  snuff,  sternutative  pow- 
ders, etc.,  349-355. 

sweet  scented,  351. 

Swicent,  351. 

to  remove  disagreeable  smell  from,  353. 

Varinas,  361. 
Tobaccos,  smoking,  349. 
Toilet  and  medicated  soaps,  331-335. 

soaps,  to  gloss,  334. 
Tonics,  hair,  288-290. 

Toning  bath  for  photography,    Parkinson's, 
306. 

baths,  to  regain  the  gold  from,  304. 
Tools,  apparatus  for  coating,  412. 

marking,  with  a  name,  443. 

protecting  from  acids,  412,  413. 
Toothache,  elixir  for,  295. 
Tooth  paste,  Hager's,  95. 

powder,  American,  94. 

powder,  Cartwright's,  94. 

powder,  charcoal,  95. 

powder,  Circassian,  95. 

powder,  Hager's,  95. 

powder,  Hufeland's,  95. 

powder,  Paris,  95. 

powder,  preparation  of  precipitated  chalk 
for,  446. 

powder,  red,  95. 

powders,  Deschamps,  94. 
Topaz,  formula  for,  11. 
Torches,  incombustible,  170. 
Torsion  testing  machine,  456-458. 
Tortoise-shell,  cement  for,  65. 

dyeing  horn  to  imitate,  43,  44. 
Toughened  glass,  434,  435. 
Tourmaline,  formula  for,  11. 
Toys,  innoxious  paints  for,  270,  271. 

mass  for,  62. 
Trabak  metal,  403. 
Trac:::g  linen,  276. 

paper,  276. 

Train  oil,  to  purify,  251. 
Transferring  photographs  to  glass,  434. 
Transfer  paper  for  lithographic  work,  276. 

paper  with  collodio-chloride  of  silver  for 

photography,  306. 
Transparent  glass  signs,  148. 

lacquer  for  closing  botlles,  211. 

varnish,  208. 
Trappistine,  25. 
Trays,  to  clean,  78. 
Trees,  cement  for  injured,  69. 
Tree  stumps,  to  destroy,  165. 

wax,  German,  69. 
Tret's  blasting  powder,  30. 
Troches,  pectoral,  80. 
i  Troughs,  stone,  cement  for,  64. 
'Tunnermann's   tables   of  percentage  of  soda, 

and  of  anhydrous  potash  in  lyes,  335. 
Turco  liqueur  aqua,  18. 
Turin,  rossolio  de,  '24. 
Turkey-red,  dyeing  with  alizarine,  106,  107. 

oil,  to  prepare,  107. 
Turkish  beads,  9-12. 

beads,  formula  for,  12. 

smoking  tobacco,  354  355. 
Turnips,  manure  for,  lf>9. 
Turpentine  liniment,  167. 

substitute  for,  174. 
Type  metals,  composition  of  various,  6. 


Ulcers  and  wounds,  balsam  for,  296. 

Ultramarine,  artificial,  207. 

Umbrella  ribs,  artificial  whalebone  for,  178. 

Umbrellas,  varnish  for,  208. 

Unalterable  alloy,  7. 

Universal  cement.  Davy's,  64. 

Upholstering,  pine  needles  in,  157. 

Uranic  oxide  for  yellow  colors  for  gems,  10. 

Uranium  lustre,  422. 

Urine,  manure  salt  from,  169. 

Utilizing  cotton-seed  hulls,  451. 

Vakaka  indorum,  58. 
Vanadium  ink,  196. 
Vandyke  red,  receipt  for,  270. 
Vanel's  water-proof  composition,  385. 
Vanilla  cordial,  25. 

essence,  16. 

ratafia,  27. 

sweetmeat,  82. 

tincture,  16. 

vinegar  362. 

water,  16. 
Varnish,  balloon,  207,  208. 

black,  for  zinc,  209. 

Chinese,  208. 

colorless,  210. 

copal,  to  make,  202-205,  208. 

copal,  with  coal-tar  varnish  oil,  212. 

dryer  for,  266. 

for  fancy  articles,  208. 

for  photographic  negatives,  212. 

for  tinsmiths,  208. 

for  umbrellas,  208. 

for  violins,  etc.,  209. 

for  water-proofing  paper  or  cloth  (John 
son's),  423. 

for  wood,  209. 

furniture,  207-209. 

glass-like,  210. 

gold,  for  iron,  208. 

gold,  without  lac,  206. 

incombustible,  for  wood,  208. 

linseed  oil,  207. 

oil  from  coal-tar,  256. 

pitch,  for  buildings,  208,  209. 

printers',  with  coal-tar  varnish  oil,  190. 

soap,  for  gilding,  423. 

tar,  211. 

to  remove  from  silk,  75. 

transparent,  208. 
Varnishes  and  lacquers,  202-214. 

black,  208. 

filtering,  205,  206. 

for  earthen-ware,  208. 

for  wood,  not  affected  by  fire  or  boiling 
water,  208. 

photographic,  307. 

soap,  423. 

spirit  gold  lac,  206,  207. 

to  clarify,  205. 

Varnishing  coaches,  English  method  of,  212- 
214. 

gilding,  and  painting  willow-ware,  460. 
Variegated  marble,  to  imitate,  51. 
Varinas  tobacco,  352. 
Vaseline  oil,  white,  453. 

soap,  333. 

to  prepare,  248,  249. 
Vats,  new  glaze  for,  396,  397. 

wooden,  cement  for,  64. 


INDEX. 


Vegetable  fat  oil,  process  of  cleansing,  247. 

fibres,  improved  treatment  of,  345. 

fibres,  to  animalize,  346. 

fibres,  to  water-proof,  384. 

ivory,  174. 

leather,  418. 
Vegetables,  garden,  manures  for,  169. 

new  process  for  greening,  407. 

preserved,  to  give  a  natural  color,  311. 

to  preserve,  314. 
Vegetaline,  174. 
Veils,  to  wash,  363,  364. 
Velvet,  to  gild,  412. 

to  remove  wax  from,  75. 

to  wash,  363. 

which  has  become  hard,  to  soften,  363. 
Veneers,  drying,  181. 

imitations  of,  179,  180. 

staining  wood  for,  393,  394. 

stains  for,  393. 
Verdigris  liniment,  167. 

to  make,  269. 

Veritable  extrait  d' Absinthe,  25. 
Vermin,  destruction  of,  162,  163. 

Hager's    composition    for    the     destruc- 
tion of,  162, 163. 
Vessels,  paint  for,  263. 
Vibrotypes,  308. 

"Victoria"  stone,  Highton's,  50. 
Vienna  butter,  25, 133. 

fire-extinguishing  powder,  123. 

pressed  yeast,  400. 

pressed  yeast,  Zettler's  process  of  manu- 
facturing, 400,  401. 

stomach  bitters,  25. 
Vinaigre  &  la  Bordin,  362. 

a  la  Ravigote,  362. 
Vinegar,  adulterations  of,  2. 

Altvater  process  of  manufacturing,  355- 
358. 

anise,  360. 

aromatic,  360,  361. 

by  means  of  bacteria,  358-360. 

concentration  of,  358. 

dragonswort,  361. 

estragon,  361. 

from  cork  waste,  358. 

herb,  361. 

lemon,  361. 

manufacture  of  ordinary  and  fine    table 
vinegars,  355-362. 

orange,  362. 

pine-apple,  362. 

producers,  plunging,  358. 

quick  process,  358. 

raspberry,  362. 

stains,  soap  for,  76. 

strawberry,  362. 

vanilla,  362. 

white  wine,  360. 

yellow  coloring  for,  358. 
Vinegars,  fine  table,  360-362. 

from  raisins,  potatoes,  and  rice,  360. 

spiced  and  effervescing,  361. 

toilette,  284,  285. 
Vine  props,  to  preserve  by  impregnation,  315, 

316. 
Violet  indigo,  185. 

soaps,  333. 

sweetmeat,  83. 
Violins,  varnish  for,  209. 


Vital  elixir,  17. 

Volatile  products  developed  in  roasting  coffee, 

to  regain,  377,  378. 

Vulcanized  caoutchouc,  cement  for,  60. 
caoutchouc  waste,  utilization  of,  60. 
Vulcan  oil,  234. 

Wabeck's  polishing  wax,  77. 
Wafers  and  sealing  wax,  316-319. 

white  and  colored,  318,  319. 
Wagons,  lubricants  for,  231-235. 
Walker's  chemical  bronze,  46. 
Wall-paper,  gold,  new  process  of  manufactur- 
ing, 445,  446. 

paste  for,  68. 
Wall-papers,  glutine  for,  323,  324. 

to  give  a  gloss  to,  323,  324. 

damp,  glue  for,  235. 
Walls,  damp,  how  to  dry,  54. 

damp,  plaster  for,  53. 

rough-cast  and  stone,  water-glass  for,  381. 

smoky,  to  clean,  421. 

to  protect  from  moisture,  164. 
Walnut,  cream,  81. 

to  grain  imitation  of,  262. 
Warne  metal,  403. 
Warts,  remedy  for,  160. 
Wash  blues,  liquid,  370. 

for  carpets,  Clark's,  366. 

for  wood  and  stone,  164,  165. 

leather,  cleansing  of,  419. 

process,  new,  366. 

red,  for  brick  pavements,  264. 
Washed  silk,  to  make  glossy,  366. 
Washes,  hair,  288,  289. 

Washing  and  scouring,  manufacture  of  wash- 
ing blue,  etc.,  362-370. 

blue,  manufacture  of,  368-370. 

crystal,  370. 

machines,  composition  of  rollers  for,  62. 

Palmer's  process  of,  366. 

powders,  370. 

silk  goods,  soap  for,  334. 

with  water-glass,  365,  366. 

woollen  goods,  367,  368. 
Waste  and  offal,  utilization  of,  370-378. 

caoutchouc,  utilization  of,  60. 

nickel,  utilization  of,  443. 

of  sheep  wool,  to  utilize,  377. 

wash  liquors,  to  recover  fat  and  color  from, 
376,  377. 

woollen,  to  cleanse,  377. 
Watch  dials,  enamel  for,  117. 

-makers,  oils  for,  235. 

-makers'  oils,  test  for,  235. 
Water,  ambergris,  18. 

and  fire-proof  cement,  63. 

apparatus  for  purifying,  72. 

blasting  under,  with  compressed  gun-cob 
ton,  424,  425. 

cardinal,  19. 

cherry,  14. 

colors,  272,  273. 

-cress  sweetmeat,  83. 

detection  of  in  essential  oils,  449. 

essences,  extracts,  and  tinctures,  13-18. 

gold,  21. 

-melon  seed,  yield  of  oil,  2. 

hard,  to  soften,  168. 

orange  blossom,  15. 

paradise,  22. 


INDEX. 


493 


Water  pipes,  leaden,  to  coat,  445. 

Polish,  23. 

raspberry,  16. 

rose,  16. 

to  prevent  contamination  of,  in  leaden 
pipes,  445. 

vanilla,  16. 

Waters,  cosmetic  and  medicated,  290-292. 
Water-glass  and  caseine  cement  for  glass  and 
porcelain,  382. 

and  chalk  mortar,  382. 

and  lime  cements,  382. 

as  a  bleaching  agent,  379,  380. 

as  a  substitute  for  cow-dung  in  fixing 
alumina  and  iron  mordants  on  cotton- 
prints,  linen,  etc.,  379. 

as  a  substitute  for  borax  and  boracic  acid 
in  soldering  and  welding,  381. 

cement  for  glass  and  porcelain,  382. 

cement,  hydraulic,  382. 

cement  with  zinc  and  pyrolusite,  382. 

cements,  381, 382. 

cementing  cracked  bottles  with,  382. 

characteristics  of,  378. 

compound,  to  prepare,  378,  379. 

for  coating  rough-cast  and  stone  walls, 
381. 

for  finishing  linen  and  cotton  goods,  380. 

for  preserving  barrels  and  other  wooden 
articles,  382. 

for  silicifying  stones,  379. 

from  infusorial  earth  (Liebig),  378. 

in  painting,  381. 

in  painting  metals  and  glass,  381. 

paint,  Creuzburg's  process  of  making 
more  durable  than  oil  or  varnish,  381. 

potash,  as  a  binding  and  fixing  medium 
for  ground  colors  on  cotton  goods,  380. 

potash,  cheap  substitute  for  albumen  in 
printing  with  ultramarine,  380. 

potash,  to  prepare,  378. 

preparation  of  fixing,  379. 

soaps,  330. 

soda,  for  protecting  white  colors  in  print- 
ing fabrics,  379. 

soda,  preparations  of,  378. 

(soluble  glass)  and  its  uses,  378-382. 

to  paint  wood  with,  381. 

washing  with,  365,  366. 

Water-proof  and   incombustible  fabrics,  new 
method  for  the  production  of,  422. 

blacking,  320,  321. 

boots,  322. 

cloth  which  is  not  impervious  to  the  air, 
383. 

compounds,  of  Zwillings,  Fournaise's,  386. 

glue,  154,  423. 

glue  for  wooden  utensils,  66. 

mortar,  53. 

grindstones,  51. 

ointments  for  shoes,  321,  322. 

paint,  263. 

paper,  275. 

sail-cloth,  386. 

skins,  to  make,  216,  217, 

Water-proofing  boots  and  shoes,  French  pro- 
cess, 385. 

compound,  English  patented,  386. 

compound,  new,  388. 

compounds,  382-387. 

fabrics,  new  process  for,  385. 


Water-proofing  linen,  Ruhr's  receipt,  386. 

sugar  bags  for  transportation,  385,  386. 

textile  fabrics  and  paper,  and  giving  them 
greater  consistence,  386. 

textile  fabrics,  and  protecting  them  against 
moths,  386,  387. 

tissues,  preparations  for,  382. 

tissues,  various  processes  for,  383. 
Wattlen's  pyrohth,  30. 
Wax,  adulterated  with  tallow,  2. 

and  wax  preparations,  387-389. 

candles,  388. 

floats  in  alcohol,  2. 

floor,  389. 

for  modelling,  389. 

for  polishing  furniture,  387. 

for  threads  to  be  woven,  388. 

from  velvet,  to  remove,  75. 

grafting,  69. 

modelling,  superior,  418. 

polishing,  387. 

soap,  387,  388. 

tapers,  388. 

tapers,  spirit  lacquer  for,  389. 

tree,  German,  69. 

yellow,  for  shoemakers,  from  coal-tar  oils, 

257. 

Waxed  paper,  to  prepare,  388. 
Waxes,  coloring  of,  387-389. 
Waxing  floors,  new  compound  for,  389. 

threads,  to  be  woven,  388. 
Weather-proof  cement  work,  418. 
Welding  and  hardening  compounds,  238-241. 
Wells,  to  remove  foul  air  from,  168. 
Westermeyer's  artificial  stone,  49. 
Weston's  process  of  nickel-plating,  108. 
Whalebone,  artificial,  178. 

ratan  as  a  substitute  for,  183. 
Whiskey,  Polish,  23. 

to  remove  the  taste  of  the  barrel  from, 

230. 
White  cement,  52. 

chocolate,  58. 

crayons,  79. 

fires,  125. 

metal,  components  of,  5. 

mustard  seed,  yield  of  oil  in,  2. 

poppy  seed,  yield  of  oil  in,  2. 

powder,  Augendre's,  30. 

wine  vinegar,  360. 

Whitewash  closely  resembling  paint,  165. 
Wickerscheimer's  fluids  for  preserving  corpses, 
anatomical  specimens,  etc.,  310,  311. 

process  of  preserving  meat  for  food,  314. 
Wicks  for  stearine  candles,  171. 

incombustible,  170. 

metallic,  170. 
Willesdenizing,  453,  454. 
Willow-ware,  458-460. 

stains  for,  458-460. 

varnishing,  gilding,   painting,  and  bronz- 
ing, 460. 

Wilson's  preparation  of  glycerine,  74. 
Window  glass,  142-144. 
Window-panes  which  indicate  the  moisture  of 

the  atmosphere,  447. 
Windows,  gilding  on,  148. 
Windsor  soap,  334. 

Wine  and  vinegar  stains,  scouring  soap  for, 
76. 

apple,  158. 


494 


INDEX. 


Wine  barrels,  to  preserve  by  impregnation,  315, 

316. 

blackberry,  158. 
birch,  158. 
lees,  for  production  of  tartrate  of  calcium 

and  spirit  of  wine,  375,  376. 
must,  to  improve,  231. 
port,  231. 
red,  alum  in,  3. 
stains,  scouring  soap  for,  76. 
stains,  to  remove,  75. 
to  remove  the  taste  of  the  barrel  from, 

231. 

Wines,  artificial,  230, 231. 
Bordeaux,  230. 
Burgundy,  230. 
from  fruits,  158-160. 
Madeira,  231. 
Malaga,  231. 

remedy  for  ropiness  or  viscidity,  231. 
Wire  for  musical  instruments,  241. 
to  coat  with  brass,  114. 
to  protect  from  rust,  242, 243. 
Wires,  gold  and  silver,  alloys  for  imitating,  8. 
Wood,     American      process    of     preserving, 

395. 

and  glue  putty,  67. 
and  oil  putty,  67. 
and  stone,  wash  for,  164,  165. 
artificial,  for  ornaments,  93. 
cedar,  imitation  of,  396. 
cheap  paint  for,  263. 
coloring  materials  for,  391,  392. 
cuts,  to  bleach,  39. 
crystalline  coating  for,  421. 
Denninger's  process  of  staining,  for  fine 

cabinet  work,  391. 
-filler,  American,  421. 
floors,  putty  for,  67. 
floors,   to   restore  the   original    color   of, 

316. 

fire-proof,  preparation  of,  399. 
gilding  on,  394,  395. 

gilding,  polishing,  staining,  etc.,  389-399. 
hard  coating  for,  396. 
how  to  make  almost  incombustible,  54. 
how  to  preserve,  55. 
maple,  to  stain  silver-gray,  392,  393. 
mass  for  ornaments,  93,  94. 
method  of  gilding,  91,92. 
Moody's  new  polish  for,  394. 
new  colors  on,  398,  399. 
new  method  of  drying,  397. 
new  polish  for,  419. 
new  process  of  preserving,  397,  398. 
painted  with  water-glass,  381. 
-polishing,  211. 
polishing-wax  for,  398. 
shrinking  of,  396. 
-tar  creosotes,  255. 
-tar  for  decorations,  93. 
-tar  oil,  purification  of,  255. 
to  cleanse  lacquered  and  stained,  164. 
to  glass,  joining,  66. 
to  make  flexible  and  fire-proof,  389. 
to  make  incombustible,  122-V24. 
to  prevent  from  rotting,  315,  316. 
to  render  incombustible  and  impermeable, 

390. 

to  remove  ink-stains  from,  75. 
to  render  fire-proof,  390. 


Wood,  to  render  impermeable  to  water,-  390. 

varnishes,  208. 

water-proof  paint  for,  264. 
Wooden  labels,  preservation  of,  165. 

posts,  new  paint  for,  397. 

posts,  to  prevent  from  rotting,  164. 

utensils,  water-proof  glue  for,  66. 

vats,  cement  for,  64. 

Woods,  American,  strength  of  some,  396. 
Wood's  metal,  components  of,  5. 
Wool,  artificial,  175. 

sheep's,  fat  from,  450. 

sheep's,  potassic  sudorate  in,  450. 

to  bleach  white,  36. 

to  bleach  without  sulphur,  36. 

to  remove  oil  from,  346. 

to  utilize  waste  of,  377. 

Woollen   and  half-woollen  fabrics,   to  watei- 
proof,  384. 

fabrics,  to  remove  oil  from,  346. 

fabrics,  to  restore  the  color  of,  366. 

fabrics,  to  water-proof,  384. 

goods  and  yarns,  dyeing  of,  96-99. 

goods,  sizing  for,  322,  323. 

goods,  to  keep  white,  36. 

goods,  to  protect,  161. 

goods,  washing,  367,  368. 

tissues,  bleaching,  35. 

tissues,  cleansing  of,  35,  36. 

waste,  to  cleanse,  377. 

yarns,  size  for,  325. 
Woolly  fibre,  precipitation  of,  274. 
"  Wootz,"  or  Indian  steel,  5. 
Worms  and  insects,  to  destroy,  161,  162. 
Wormwood  cordial,  25. 

essence,  16. 

ratafia,  27. 

Wort,  boiling  of,  with  hops  for  brewing,  222. 
Wounds  and  ulcers,  balsam  for,  296. 

balsam  for,  I(i7,  168. 
Wringers  and  washing-machines,  composition 

of  rollers  for,  62. 
Writing  inks,  192-198. 

paper  which  can  be  washed,  276. 
Writings,  to  duplicate,  86. 
Wrought-iron  castings,  441. 

Yarn,  a  new  French,  349. 

flax,  Hartmann's  quick  method  of  bleach- 
ing, 36,  37. 
pearl,  345. 

Yarns,  cotton,  size  for,  325. 
silvering  or  gilding,  92. 
woollen,  size  for,  3'25. 
Yeast,  American  dry,  401. 
artificial,  401,402. 
compressed,    from      uncrushed      cereals, 

226. 

compressed,  to  make,  227-229. 
improvements  in  treating,  402. 
manufacture  of  pressed,  bakers'  and  brew- 
ers', etc.,  399-403. 
pressed,  from  beer  yeast,  402,  403. 
pressed,  Schubert's  method  of  manufact- 
uring, 399,  400. 
Vienna  pressed,  400. 

Yelks  of  eggs  in  tawing,  to  preserve,  217. 
Yellow  crayons,  79. 

dyes,  boiled  with  alcohol,  water,  and  lime 

water,  3. 
dyes,  the  least  stable,  3. 


INDEX. 


495 


Yellow  dyes,  the  most  stable,  3. 

pigments,  209,  270. 
Ylang  ylang,  284. 

Zeiodelite,  preparation  of,  178. 

Zettler's    process    of    manufacturing  Vienna 

pressed  yeast,  400,  401. 
Zinc  and  aluminium  alloys,  4. 
bath  for  nickelling,  109. 


Zinc,  black  varnish  for,  209. 

chloride  of,  to  prepare,  72. 

ointment,  167. 

paint,  dryer  for,  266. 

painting  on,  414,  415. 

wash,  to  prepare,  264. 
Zinciferous  metallic  colors,  137, 138. 
Zincing  screw-bolts,  443,  444. 
Zwilling's  water-proofing  compound,  286. 


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3AIRD.— Miscellaneous     Papers     on     Economic     Questions. 
By   Henry  Carey  Baird.     (In  preparation,} 

BAIRD. — The  American  Cotton  Spinner,  and  Manager's  and 

Carder's  Guide: 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  Cotton  Spinning;  giving  the  Dimensions  and 
Speed  of  Machinery,  Draught  and  Twist  Calculations,  etc.;  with 
notices  of  recent  Improvements:  together  with  Rules  and  Examples 
fur  making  .changes  in  the  sizes  and  numbers  of  Roving  and  Yarn. 
Compiled  from  the  papers  of  the  late  ROBERT  H.  BAIRD.  I2mo. 

$1.50 


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BAIRD. — Standard  Wages  Computing  Tables  : 

An  Improvement  in  all  former  Methods  of  Computation,  so  arranged 
that  wages  for  days,  hours,  or  fractions  of  hours,  at  a  specified  rate 
per  day  or  hour,  may  be  ascertained  at  a  glance.  By  T.  SPANGLKR 
BAIRD.  Oblong  folio $5.00 

BAKER. — Long-Span  Railway  Bridges: 

Comprising  Investigations  of  the  Comparative  Theoretical  and 
Practical  Advantages  of  the  various  Adopted  or  Proposed  Type 
Systems  of  Construction;  with  numerous  Formulae  and  Tables.  By 
B.  BAKER.  I2mo.  #1.50 

BAKER. — The  Mathematical  Theory  of  the  Steam-Engine  : 
With  Rules  at  length,  and   Examples  worked   out  for  the  use  of 
Practical   Men.     By  T.   BAKER,   C.   E.,  with  numerous  Diagrams. 
Sixth  Edition,  Revised  by  Prof.  J.  R.  YOUNG.     I2mo.         .  75 

BARLOW.— The    History    and    Principles    of    Weaving,   by 

Hand  and  by  Power : 

Re-printed,  with  Considerable  Additions,  from  "  Engineering,"  with 
a  chapter  on  Lace-making  Machinery,  reprinted  from  the  Journal  of 
the  "Society  of  Arts."  By  ALFRED  BARLOW.  With  several  hundred 
illustrations.  8vo.,  443  pages $10.00 

BARR. — A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Combustion  of  Coal: 
Including  descriptions  of  various  mechanical  devices  for  the  Eco- 
nomic Generation  of  Heat  by  the  Combustion  of  Fuel,  whether  solid, 
liquid  or  gaseous.    8vo $2.50 

BARR. — A  Practical  Treatise  on  High  Pressure  Steam  Boilers: 
Including  Results  of  Recent  Experimental  Tests  of  Boiler  Materials, 
together  with  a  Description  of  Approved  Safety  Apparatus,  Steam 
Pumps,  Injectors  and  Economizers  in  actual  use.  By  WM.  M.  BARR. 
204  Illustrations.  8vo.  .......  $3.00 

BAUERMAN.— A  Treatise  on  the  Metallurgy  of  Iron  : 

Containing  Outlines  of  the  History  of  Iron  Manufacture,  Methods  of 
Assay,  and  Analysis  of  Iron  Ores,  Processes  of  Manufacture  of  Iron 
and  Steel,  etc.,  etc.  By  H.  BAUERMAN,  F.  G.  S.,  Associate  of  the 
Royal  School  of  Mines.  Fifth  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged. 
Illustrated  with  numerous  Wood  Engravings  from  Drawings  by  J.  B, 
JORDAN.  i2mo. $2.00 

BAYLES. — House  Drainage  and  Water  Service : 

In  Cities,  Villages  and  Rural  Neighborhoods.  With  Incidental  Con. 
sideration  of  Certain  Causes  Affecting  the  Health  fulness  of  Dwell- 
ings. By  JAMES  C.  BAYLES,  Editor  of  "  The  Iron  Age  "  and  "  The 
Metal  Worker."  With  numerous  illustrations.  8vo.  cloth,  $3.00 

BEANS. — A   Treatise   on    Railway  Curves    and   Location  of 

Railroads : 
By  E.  W.  BEANS,  C.  E.     Illustrated.     I2mo.     Tucks        .         $1.50 

BECKETT.— A  Rudimentary  Treatise  on  Clocks,  and  Watches 

and  Bells  : 

By  Sir  EDMUND  BECKETT,  Bart.,  LL.  D.,  Q.  C.  F.  R.  A.  S.  \Yiih 
numerous  illustrations.  Seventh  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlnr.t'cd. 
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BELL. — Carpentry  Made  Easy: 

Or,  The  Science  and  Art  of  Framing  on  a  New  and  Improved 
System.  With  Specific  Instructions  for  Building  Balloon  Frames,  Barn 
Frames,  Mi'l  Frames,  Warehouses,  Church  Spires,  etc.  Comprising 
also  a  System  of  Bridge  Building,  with  Bills,  Estimates  of  Cost,  and 
valuable  Tables.  Illustrated  by  forty-four  plates,  comprising  Dearly 
200  figures.  By  WILLIAM  E.  BELL,  Architect  and  Practical  Builder. 
8vo. $5-oo 

BEMROSE. — Fret-Cutting  and  Perforated  Carving: 

With  fifty-three  practical  illustrations.  By  W.  BEMROSE,  JR.  I  vol. 
quarto  ..........  $3.00 

BEMROSE. — Manual  of  Buhl-work  and  Marquetry: 

With  Practical  Instructions  for  Learners,  and  ninety  colored  designs. 
By  W.  BEMROSE,  JR.  I  vol.  quarto  ....  $3-OO 

BEMROSE.— Manual  of  Wood  Carving: 

With  Practical  Illustrations  for  Learners  of  the  Art,  and  Original  and 
Selected  Designs.  By  WILLIAM  BEMROSE,  JR.  With  an  Intro- 
duction by  LLEWELLYN  JEWITT,  F.  S.  A.,  etc.  With  128  illustra- 
tions, 410.  .........  $3.00 

BILLINGS.— Tobacco : 

Its  History,  Variety,  Culture,  Manufacture,  Commerce,  and  Various 
Modes  of  Use.  By  E.  R.  BILLINGS.  Illustrated  by  nearly  200 
engravings.  8vo.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  $3.00 

BIRD. — The  American  Practical  Dyers'  Companion : 

Comprising  a  Description  of  the  Principal  Dye-Stuffs  and  Chemicals 
used  in  Dyeing,  their  Natures  and  Uses ;  Mordants,  and  How  Made ; 
with  the  best  American,  English,  French  and  German  processes  for 
Bleaching  and  Dyeing  Silk,  Wool,  Cotton,  Linen,  Flannel,  Felt, 
Dress  Goods,  Mixed  and  Hosiery  Yarns,  Feathers,  Grass,  Felt,  Fur, 
Wool,  and  Straw  Hats,  Jute  Yarn,  Vegetable  Ivory,  Mats,  Skins, 
Furs,  Leather,  etc.,  etc.  By  Wood,  Aniline,  and  other  Processes, 
together  with  Remarks  on  Finishing  Agents,  and  Instructions  in  the 
Finishing  of  Fabrics,  Substitutes  for  Indigo,  Water-Proofing  of 
Materials,  Tests  and  Purification  of  Water,  Manufacture  of  Aniline 
and  other  New  Dye  Wares,  Harmonizing  Colors,  etc.,  etc. ;  embrac- 
ing in  all  over  800  Receipts  for  Colors  and  Shades,  accompanied  by 
170  Dyed  Samples  of  Raw  Materials  and  Fabrics.  By  F.  J.  BIRD, 
Practical  Dyer,  Author  of  "The  Dyers'  Hand- Book."  8vo.  $10.00 

B LINN. —A  Practical  Workshop  Companion  for  Tin,  Sheet- 
Iron,  and  Copper-plate  Workers  : 

Containing  Rules  for  describing  various  kinds  of  Patterns  used  by 
Tin,  Sheet-Iron  and  Copper- plate  Workers;  Practical  Geometry; 
Mensuration  of  Surfaces  and  Solids ;  Tables  of  the  Weights  of 
Metals,  Lead-pipe,  etc.;  Tables  of  Areas  and  Circumferences 
of  Circles;  Japan,  Varnishes,  Lackers,  Cements,  Compositions,  etc., 
etc.  By  LEROY  J.  BLINN,  Master  Mechanic.  With  over  One 
Hundred  Illustrations.  I2mo. $2.50 


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BOOTH.— Marble  Worker's  Manual: 

Containing  Practical  Information  respecting  Marbles  in  general,  their 
Cutting,  Working  and  Polishing ;  Veneering  of  Marble  ;  Mosaics ; 
Composition  and  Use  of  Artificial  Marble,  Stuccos,  Cements,  Receipts, 
Secrets,  etc.,  etc.  Translated  from  the  French  by  M.  L.  BOOTH. 
\VithanAppendixconcerningAmericanMarbles.  I2mo.,  cloth  $1.50 
BOOTH  and  MORFIT.— The  Encyclopaedia  of  Chemistry, 

Practical  and  Theoretical : 

Embracing  its  application  to  the  Arts,  Metallurgy,  Mineralogy, 
Geology,  Medicine  and  Pharmacy.  By  JAMES  C.  BOOTH,  Melter 
and  Refiner  in  the  United  States  Mint,  Professor  of  Applied  Chem- 
istry in  the  Franklin  Institute,  etc.,  assisted  by  CAMPBELL  MORFIT, 
author  of  "  Chemical  Manipulations,"  etc.  Seventh  Edition.  Com- 
plete in  one  volume,  royal  8vo.,  978  pages,  with  numerous  wood-cuts 
and  other  illustrations  .  .  ...  .  .  .  $5-OO 

BRAMWELL.— The  Wool  Carder's  Vade-Mecum: 

A  Complete  Manual  of  the  Art  of  Carding  Textile  Fabrics.  By  W. 
C.  BRAMWELL.  Third  Edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  Illustrated. 
Pp.  400.  I2mo $2.50 

BRANNT.— A  Practical  Treatise   on   Animal   and  Vegetable 

Fats  and  Oils : 

Comprising  both  fixed  and  volatile  oils,  their  physical  and  chemical 
properties,  the  manner  of  extracting  and  refining  them,  and  practical 
rules  for  testing  them ;  as  well  as  the  manufacture  of  Artificial  Butter, 
Lubricants,  etc.  Edited  chiefly  from  the  German  of  Drs.  KARL 
SCHAEDLER,  G.  \V.  ASKINSON,  and  RICHARD  BRUNNER,  with  addi- 
tions. By  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.  Illustrated  by  numerous  Engrav- 
ings. About  600  pages.  8vo.  (In  Press.)  .  .  .  $  . 

BRANNT. — A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Soap 

and  Candles : 

Based  upon  the  most  Recent  Experiences  in  the  Practice  and  Science ; 
comprising  the  Chemistry,  Raw  Materials,  Machinery,  and  Utensils 
and  Various  Processes  of  Manufacture.  Edited  from  the  German  of 
Dr.  C.  DEITE,  A.  ENGELHARDT,  Dr.  C.  SCHAEDLER,  and  others. 
By  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.  Illustrated  by  numerous  Engravings.  8vo. 
(In  Preparation.) $  . 

BRANNT.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Raw  Materials  and  the 
Distillation  and  Rectification  of  Alcohol,  and  the  Prepara- 
tion of  Alcoholic  Liquors,  Liqueurs,  Cordials,  Bitters,  etc. : 
Edited  chiefly  from  the  German  of  Dr.  K.  Stammer,  Dr.  F.  Eisner, 
and  E.  Schubert.     By  WM.  T.  BRANNT.     Illustrated  by  thirty-one 
engravings.     I2mo.  .......         $2.50 


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BRANNT— WAHL.—  The  Techno- Chemical  Receipt  Book: 

Containing  several  thousand  Receipts  covering  the  latest,  most  im 
portant,  and  most  useful  discoveries  in  Chemical  Technology,  and 
their  Practical  Application  in  the  Arts  and  the  Industries.  Edited 
chiefly  from  the  German  of  Drs.  Winckler,  Eisner,  Heintze,  Mier- 
zinski,  Jacobsen,  Roller,  and  Heinzerling,  with  additions  by  WM.  T. 
BRANNT  and  WM.  H.  WAHL,  PH.  D.  Illustrated  by  78  engravings. 
I2mo.  495  pages  .  .  .  #200 

BROWN. — Five  Hundred  and  Seven  Mechanical  Movements. 
Embracing  all  those  which  are  most  important  in  Dynamics,  Hy- 
draulics, Hydrostatics,  Pneumatics,  Steam-Engines,  Mill  and  othei 
Gearing,  Presses,  Horology  and  Miscellaneous  Machinery;  and  in- 
cluding many  movements  never  before  published,  and  several  of 
which  have  only  recently  come  into  use.  By  HENRY  T.  BROWN. 
I2mo.  ..........  $i.oc 

BUCKMASTER.— The  Elements  of  Mechanical  Physics  : 
By  J.  C.  BUCKMASTER.       Illustrated    with    numerous   engravings. 
I2mo.        ..........         $1-5° 

BULLOCK.— The  American  Cottage  Builder  : 

A  Series  of  Designs,  Plans  and  Specifications,  from  $200  to  $20,000, 
for  Homes  for  the  People ;  together  with  Warming,  Ventilation, 
Drainage,  Painting  and  Landscape  Gardening.  By  JOHN  BULLOCK, 
Architect  and  Editor  of  "  The  Rudiments  of  Architecture  and 
Building,"  etc.,  etc.  Illustrated  by  75  engravings.  8vo.  $3-5Q 

BULLOCK. — The  Rudiments  of  Architecture  and  Building : 
For  the  use  of  Architects,  Builders,   Draughtsmen,   Machinists,  En- 
gineers and  Mechanics.     Edited  by  JOHN  BULLOCK,  author  of  "  The 
American  Cottage  Builder."   Illustrated  by  250  Engravings.  8vo.  $3.50 

BURGH.— Practical    Rules    for    the   Proportions   of     Modern 

Engines  and  Boilers  for  Land  and  Marine  Purposes. 
By  N.  P.  BURGH,  Engineer.     12010.  .         .         .         .         $1.50 

BYLES. — Sophisms    of     Free    Trade    and    Popular    Political 

Economy  Examined. 

By  a  BARRISTER  (SIR  JOHN  BARNARD  BYLES,  Judge  of  Common 
Pleas).  From  the  Ninth  English  Edition,  as  published  by  the 
Manchester  Reciprocity  Association.  I2mo.  .  .  .  $1.25 

BOWMAN.— The  Structure  of  the  Wool  Fibre  in  its  Relation 

to  the  Use  of  Wool  for  Technical  Purposes : 
Being  the  substance,  with  additions,  of  Five  Lectures,  delivered  at 
the  request  of  the  Council,  to  the  members  of  the  Bradford  Technical 
College,  and  the  Society  of  Dyers  and  Colorists.  By  F.  II.  BOW- 
MAN, D.  Sc.,  F.  R.  S.  E.,  F.  L.  S.  Illustrated  by  32  engravings. 
Svo $6.50 

BYRNE. — Hand-Book  for  the  Artisan,  Mechanic,  and  Engi- 
neer : 

Comprising  the  Grinding  and  Sharpening  of  Cutting  Tools,  Abrasive 
Processes,  Lapidary  Work,  Gem  and  Glass  Engraving,  Varnishing 
and  Lackering,  Apparatus,  Materials  and  Processes  for  Grinding  and 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.  7 

Polishing,  etc.  By  OLIVER  BYRNE.  Illustrated  by  185  wood  en- 
gravings. 8vo.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  $5.00 

BYRNE.— Pocket-Book  for  Railroad  and  Civil  Engineers : 
Containing  New,  Exact  and  Concise  Methods  for  Laying  out  Railroad 
Curves,  Switches,  Frog  Angles  and  Crossings ;  the  Staking  out  of 
work;  Levelling;  the  Calculation  of  Cuttings;  Embankments;  Earth- 
work, etc.  By  OLIVER  BYRNE.  i8mo.,  full  bpund,  pocket-book 
form $!-75 

BYRNE.— The  Practical  Metal- Worker's  Assistant : 

Comprising  Metallurgic  Chemistry;  the  Arts  of  Working  all  Metals 
and  Alloys;  Forging  of  Iron  and  Steel;  Hardening  and  Tempering; 
Melting  and  Mixing;  Casting  and  Founding;  Works  in  Sheet  Metal; 
the  Processes  Dependent  on  the  Ductility  of  the  Metals;  Soldering; 
and  the  most  Improved  Processes  and  Tools  employed  by  Metal- 
Workers.  With  the  Application  of  the  Art  of  Electro-Metallurgy  to 
Manufacturing  Processes;  collected  from  Original  Sources,  and  from 
the  works  of  Holtzapffel,  Bergeron,  Leupold,  Plumier,  Napier, 
Scoffern,  Clay,  Fairbairn  and  others.  By  OLIVER  BYRNE.  A  new, 
revised  and  improved  edition,  to  which  is  added  an  Appendix,  con- 
taining The  Manufacture  of  Russian  Sheet- Iron.  By  JOHN  PERCY, 
M.  D.,  F.  R.  S.  The  Manufacture  of  Malleable  Iron  Castings,  and 
Improvements  in  Bessemer  Steel.  By  A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chemist  and 
Engineer.  With  over  Six  Hundred  Engravings,  Illustrating  every 
Branch  of  the  Subject.  8vo $7.00 

BYRNE.— The  Practical  Model  Calculator: 

For  the  Engineer,  Mechanic,  Manufacturer  of  Engine  Work,  Nava> 
Architect,  Miner  and  Millwright.  By  OLIVER  BYRNE.  8vo.,  nearly 
600  pages  .........  $4.50 

CABINET  MAKER'S  ALBUM  OF  FURNITURE: 

Comprising  a  Collection  of  Designs  for  various  Styles  of  Furniture. 
Illustrated  by  Forty-eight  Large  and  Beautifully  Engraved  Plates. 
Oblong,  8vo $3.50 

CALLINGHAM. — Sign  Writing  and  Glass  Embossing: 

A  Complete  Practical  Illustrated  Manual  of  the  Art.  By  JAMES 
CALLINGHAM.  i2mo #1.50 

CAMPIN. — A  Practical  Treatise  on  Mechanical  Engineering: 
Comprising  Metallurgy,  Moulding,  Casting,  Forging,  Tools,  Work- 
shop  Machinery,  Mechanical  Manipulation,  Manufacture  of  Steam- 
Engines,  etc.  With  an  Appendix  on  the  Analysis  of  Iron  and  Iron 
Ores.  By  FRANCIS  CAMPIN,  C.  E.  To  which  are  added,  Observations 
on  the  Construction  of  Steam  Boilers,  and  Remarks  upon  Furnaces 
used  for  Smoke  Prevention ;  with  a  Chapter  on  Explosions.  By  R. 
ARMSTRONG,  C.  E.,  and  JOHN  BOURNE.  Rules  for  Calculating  the 
Change  Wheels  for  Screws  on  a  Turning  Lathe,  and  for  a  Wheel 
cutting  Machine.  By  J.  LA  NICCA.  Management  of  Steel,  Includ- 
ing Forging,  Hardening,  Tempering,  Annealing,  Shrinking  and 
Expansion;  and  the  Case-hardening  of  Iron.  By  G.  EDE.  8vo. 
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CAREY. — A  Memoir  of  Henry  C.  Carey. 

By  DR.  WM.  ELDER.    With  a  portrait.     8vo.,  cloth         .         .        75 

CAREY.— The  Works  of  Henry  C.  Carey : 

Harmony  of  Interests  :    Agricultural,  Manufacturing  and  Commer- 
cial.    8vo.  .....  .  $1.50 

Manual  of  Social  Science.  Condensed  from  Carey's  "  Principles 
of  Social  Science."  By  KATE  McKEAN.  i  vol.  I2mo.  .  $2.25 
Miscellaneous  Works.  With  a  Portrait.  *  vols.  8vo.  $6.00 

Past,  Present  and  Future.     8vo $2.50 

Principles  of  Social  Science.  3  volumes,  8vo.  .  .  $10.00 
The  Slave-Trade,  Domestic  and  Foreign;  Why  it  Exists,  and 
How  it  may  be  Extinguished  (1853).  8vo.  .  .  .  $2.00 
The  Unity  of  Law :  As  Exhibited  in  the  Relations  of  Physical, 
Social,  Mental  and  Moral  Science  (1872).  8vo.  .  .  #3.50 

CLARK. — Tramways,  their  Construction  and  Working : 

Embracing  a  Comprehensive  History  of  the  System.  With  an  ex- 
haustive  analyses  of  the  various  modes  of  traction,  including  horse- 
power, steam,  healed  water  and  compressed  air;  a  description  of  the 
varieties  of  Rolling  stock,  and  ample  details  of  cost  and  working  ex- 
penses. By  D.  KINNEAR  CLARK.  Illustrated  by  over  200  wood 
engravings,  and  thirteen  folding  plates.  2  vols.  8vo.  .  $12.50 

COLBURN.— The  Locomotive  Engine  : 

Including  a  Description  of  its  Structure,  Rules  for  Estimating  its 
Capabilities,  and  Practical  Observations  on  its  Construction  and  Man- 
agement. By  ZERAH  COLBURN.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  .  $1.00 

COLLENS. — The  Eden  of  Labor;  or,  the  Christian  Utopia. 
By  T.  WHARTON  COLLENS,  author  of  "  Humanics,"   "  The  History 
of  Charity,"  etc.     I2mo.     Paper  cover,  $1.00;   Cloth          .         $1.25 

COOLEY. — A  Complete  Practical  Treatise  on  Perfumery : 
Being  a  Hand-book  of  Perfumes,  Cosmetics  and  other  Toilet  Articles. 
With   a  Comprehensive    Collection  of  Formulae.     By   ARNOLD  J. 
COOLEY.    I2mo.        . $1.50 

COOPER. — A  Treatise  on  the  use  of  Belting  for  the  Trans- 
mission of  Power. 

With  numerous  illustrations  of  approved  and  actual  methods  of  ar- 
ranging Main  Driving  and  Quarter  Twist  Belts,  and  of  Belt  Fasten- 
ings. Examples  and  Rules  in  great  number  for  exhibiting  and  cal- 
culating the  size  and  driving  power  of  Belts.  Plain,  Particular  and 
Practical  Directions  for  the  Treatment,  Care  and  Management  of 
Belts.  Descriptions  of  many  varieties  of  Beltings,  together  with 
chapters  on  the  Transmission  of  Power  by  Ropes;  by  Iron  and 
Wood  Frictional  Gearing;  on  the  Strength  of  Belting  Leather;  and 
on  the  Experimental  Investigations  of  Morin,  Briggs,  and  others.  By 
JOHN  H.  COOPER,  M.  E.  8vo $3-S° 

CRAIK.— The  Practical  American  Millwright  and  Miller. 

By  DAVID  CRAIK,  Millwright.  Illustrated  by  numerous  wood  en- 
gravings and  two  folding  plates.  8vo $5-OO 


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CRISTIANI. — A  Technical  Treatise  on  Soap  and  Candles: 

With  a  Glance  at  the  Industry  of  Fats  and  Oils.     By  R.  S.  CRIS- 
TIANI, Chemist.     Author  of  "Perfumery  and  Kindred  Arts."     Illus- 
trated by  176  engravings.     581  pages,  8vo.         .         .         .         $7.50 
.CRISTIANL— Perfumery  and  Kindred  Arts: 

A  Comprehensive  Treatise  on  Perfumery,  containing  a  History  of 
Perfumes  from  the  remotest  ages  to  the  present  time.  A  complete 
detailed  description  of  the  various  Materials  and  Apparatus  used  in 
the  Perfumer's  Art,  with  thorough  Practical  Instruction  and  careful 
Formulae,  and  advice  for  the  fabrication  of  all  known  preparations  of 
the  day,  including  Essences,  Tinctures,  Extracts,  Spirits,  Waters, 
Vinegars,  Pomades,  Powders,  Paints,  Oils,  Emulsions,  Cosmetics, 
Infusions,  Pastilles,  Tooth  Powders  and  Washes,  Cachous,  Hair  Dyes, 
Sachets,  Essential  Oils,  Flavoring  Extracts,  etc. ;  and  full  details  for 
making  and  manipulating  Fancy  Toilet  Soaps,  Shaving  Creams,  etc., 
by  new  and  improved  methods.  With  an  Appendix  giving  hints  and 
advice  for  making  and  fermenting  Domestic  Wines,  Cordials,  Liquors, 
Candies,  Jellies,  Syrups,  Colors,  etc.,  and  for  Perfuming  and  Flavor- 
ing Segars,  Snuff  and  Tobacco,  and  Miscellaneous  Receipts  for 
various  useful  Analogous  Articles.  By  R.  S.  CRISTIANI,  Con- 
sulting Chemist  and  Perfumer,  Philadelphia.  8vo.  .  .  #5.00 

CUPPER.— The  Universal  Stair-Builder : 

Being  a  new  Treatise  on  the  Construction  of  Stair-Cases  and  Hand- 
Rails;  showing  Plans  of  the  various  forms  of  Stairs,  method  of 
Placing  the  Risers  in  the  Cylinders,  general  method  of  describing 
the  Face  Moulds  for  a  Hand- Rail,  and  an  expeditious  method  of 
Squaring  the  Rail.  Useful  also  to  Stonemasons  constructing  Stone 
Stairs  and  Hand-Rails  ;  with  a  new  method  of  Sawing  the  Twist 
Part  of  any  Hand-Rail  square  from  the  face  of  the  plank,  and  to  a 
parallel  width.  Also,  a  new  method  of  forming  the  Easings  of  the 
Rail  by  a  gauge ;  preceded  by  some  necessary  Problems  in  Practical 
Geometry,  with  the  Sections  of  Prismatic  Solids.  Illustrated  by  29 
plates.  By  R.  A.  CUPPER,  Architect,  author  of  "  The  Practical 
Stair-Builder's  Guide."  Third  Edition.  Large  4to. 

DAVIDSON. — A  Practical  Manual  of  House  Painting,  Grain- 
ing, Marbling,  and  Sign- Writing : 

Containing  full  information  on  the  processes  of  House  Painting  in 
Oil  and  Distemper,  the  Formation  of  Letters  and  Practice  of  Sign- 
Writing,  the  Principles  of  Decorative  Art,  a  Course  of  Elementary 
Drawing  for  House  Painters,  Writers,  etc.,  and  a  Collection  of  Useful 
Receipts.  With  nine  colored  illustrations  of  Woods  and  Marbles, 
and  numerous  wood  engravings.  By  ELLIS  A.  DAVIDSON.  I2mo. 

$3-°° 

DAVIES. — A   Treatise  on    Earthy  and   Other   Minerals   and 

Mining  : 

By  D.  C.  DAVIES,  F.  G.  S.,  Mining  Engineer,  etc.  Illustrated  by 
76  Engravings.  I2mo.  .......  $5-°° 


to          HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

DA  VIES. — A  Treatise  on  Metalliferous  Minerals  and  Mining: 
By  D.  C.  DAVIES,  F.  G.  S.,  Mining  Engineer,  Examiner  of  Mines, 
Quarries  and  Collieries.    Illustrated  by  148  engravings  of  Geological 
Formations,    Mining   Operations   and    Machinery,    drawn    from    the 
practice  of  all  parts  of  the  world.    2d  Edition,  I2mo.,  450  pages  $5.00 

DAVIES.— A  Treatise  on  Slate  and  Slate  Quarrying: 
Scientific,  Practical  and  Commercial.     By  D.  C.  DAVIES,  F.  G.  S., 
Mining   Engineer,  etc.     With   numerous    illustrations   and    folding 
plates.      I2mo. $2.50 

DAVIS. — A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Bricks, 
Tiles,  Terra-Cotta,  etc. : 

Including  Common,  Pressed,  Ornamentally  Shaped,  and  Enamelled 
Bricks,  Drain-Tiles,  Straight   and  Curved   Sewer- Pipes,  Fire-Clays, 
Fire-Bricks,   Terra-Cotta,    Roofing- Tiles,  Flooring-Tiles,   Ait-Tiles, 
Mosaic  Plates,  and  Imitation  of  Intarsia  or  Inlaid  Surfaces;  com- 
prising every  important   Product  of  Clay  employed  in  Architecture, 
Engineering,  the  Blast-Furnace,  for  Retorts,  etc.,  with  a  History  and 
the  Actual   Processes  in   Handling,  Disintegrating,  Tempering,  and 
Moulding  the  Clay  into  Shape,   Drying  Naturally  and  Artificially, 
Setting  and  Burning,  Enamelling  in  Polychrome  Colors,  Composition 
and  Application  of  Glazes,  etc.;  including  Full  Detailed  Descriptions 
of  the  most  modern  Machines,  Tools,  Kilns,  and  Kiln-Roofs  used. 
By  CHARLES  THOMAS  DAVIS.     Illustrated  by  228  Engravings  and 
6  Plates.     8vo.,  472  pages         .         .         .         .         .         .         $5.00 

DAVIS.— The  Manufacture  of  Leather: 

Being  a  description  of  all  of  the  Processes  for  the  Tanning,  Tawing, 
Currying,  Finishing  and  Dyeing  of  every  kind  of  Leather ;  including 
the  various  Raw  Materials  and   the  Methods  for  Determining  their 
Values;  the  Tools,   Machines,  and  all  Details  of  Importance  con- 
nected with  an  Intelligent  and  Profitable  Prosecution  of  the  Art,  with 
Special  Reference  to  the  Best  American   Practice.     To  which  are 
added  Complete  Lists  of  all  American   Patents  for  Materials,  Pro- 
cesses, Tools,  and  Machines  for  Tanning,  Currying,  etc.   By  CHARLES 
THOMAS  DAVIS.     Illustrated  by  302  engravings  and  12  Samples  of 
Dyed  Leathers.     One  vol.,  8vo.,  824  pages        .         .         .       $10.00 
DAWIDOWSKY— BRANNT.— A   Practical  Treatise  on  the 
Raw  Materials  and  Fabrication  of  Glue,  Gelatine,  Gelatine 
Veneers  and  Foils,  Isinglass,  Cements,  Pastes,  Mucilages, 
etc. : 

Eased  upon  Actual  Experience.     By  F.  DAWIDOWSKY,  Technical 
Chemist.     Translated  from  the  German,  with   extensive  additions, 
including  a  description  of  the  most  Recent  American  Processes,  by 
WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT,  Graduate  of  the  Royal  Agricultural  College 
of  Eldena,  Prussia.     35  Engravings.     I2mo.    .         .         .         $2.50 

DE  GRAFF. — The  Geometrical  Stair-Builders'  Guide: 

Being  a  Plain  Practical  System  of  Hand-Railing,  embracing  all  its 
necessary  Details,  and  Geometrically  Illustrated  by  twenty-two  Steel 
Engravings ;  together  with  the  use  of  the  most  approved  principles 
of  Practical  Geometry.  By  SIMON  DE  GRAFF,  Architect.  4to. 

$2.  So 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO'.S  CATALOGUE.  n 


DE  KONINCK— DIETZ.— A    Practical   Manual   of   Chemical 

Analysis  and  Assaying : 

As  applied  to  the  Manufacture  of  Iron  from  its  Ores,  and  to  Cast  Iron, 
Wrought  Iron,  and  Steel,  as  found  in  Commerce.  By  L.  L.  D£ 
KONINCK,  Dr.  Sc.,  and  E.  DIETZ,  Engineer.  Edited  with  Notes,  by 
ROBERT  MALLET,  F.  R.  S.,  F.  S.  G.,  M.  I.  C.  E.,  etc.  American 
Edition,  Edited  with  Notes  and  an  Appendix  on  Iron  Ores,  by  A.  A.» 
FESQUET,  Chemist  and  Engineer.  I2mo.  .  .  .  $2.50' 

DUNCAN.— Practical  Surveyor's  Guide: 

Containing  the  necessary  information  to  make  any  person  of  com- 
mon capacity,  a  finished  land  surveyor  without  the  aid  of  a  teacher. 
By  ANDREW  DUNCAN.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  .  .  .  $1.25 

DUPLAIS. — A  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  and  Distillation 

of  Alcoholic  Liquors : 

Comprising  Accurate  and  Complete  Details  in  Regard  to  Alcohol 
from  Wine,  Molasses,  Beets,  Gmin,  Rice,  Potatoes,  Sorghum,  Aspho- 
del, Fruits,  etc.;  with  the  Distillation  and  Rectification  of  Brandy, 
Whiskey,  Rum,  Gin,  Swiss  Absinthe,  etc.,  the  Preparation  of  Aro- 
matic Waters,  Volatile  Oils  or  Essences,  Sugars,  Syrups,  Aromatic 
Tinctures,  Liqueurs,  Cordial  Wines,  Effervescing  Wines,  etc.,  the 
Ageing  of  Brandy  and  the  improvement  of  Spirits,  with  Copious 
Directions  and  Tables  for  Testing  and  Reducing  Spirituous  Liquors, 
etc.,  etc.  Translated  and  Edited  from  the  French  of  MM.  DUPLAIS, 
Aine  et  Jeune.  By  M.  McKENNiE,  M.  D.  To  which  are  added  the 
United  States  Internal  Revenue  Regulations  for  the  Assessment  and 
Collection  of  Taxes  on  Distilled  Spirits.  Illustrated  by  fourteen 
folding  plates  and  several  wood  engravings.  743  pp.  8vo.  $10  oo 

DUSSAUCE.— A   General    Treatise   on   the   Manufacture   of 

Vinegar : 

Theoretical  and  Practical.  Comprising  the  various  Methods,  by  the 
Slow  and  the  Quick  Processes,  with  Alcohol,  Wine,  Grain,  Malt, 
Cider,  Molasses,  and  Beets;  as  well  as  the  Fabrication  of  Wood 
Vinegar,  etc.,  etc.  By  Prof.  H.  DUSSAUCE.  8vo.  .  $5  oo 

DUSSAUCE.— Practical  Treatise  on  the  Fabrication  of  Matches, 

Gun  Cotton,  and  Fulminating  Powder. 
By  Professor  H.  DUSSAUCE.     I2mo $3  oo 

DYER  AND  COLOR-MAKER'S  COMPANION: 

Containing  upwards  of  two  hundred  Receipts  for  making  Colors,  on 
the  most  approved  principles,  for  all  the  various  styles  and  fabrics  now 
in  existence ;  with  the  Scouring  Process,  and  plain  Directions  for 
Preparing,  Washing-off,  and  Finishing  the  Goods.  I2mo.  $i  2$ 

EDWARDS. — A  Catechism  of  the  Marine  Steam-Engine, 
For  the  use  of  Engineers,  Firemen,  and  Mechanics.  A  Practical 
Work  for  Practical  Men.  By  EMORY  EDWARDS,  Mechanical  Engi- 
neer. Illustrated  by  sixty-three  Engravings,  including  examples  of 
the  most  modern  Engines.  Third  edition,  thoroughly  revised,  with 
much  additional  matter.  12  mo.  414  pages  .  .  .  $200 

EDWARDS. — Modern  American  Locomotive  Engines, 
Their  Design,  Construction  and  Management.     By  EMORY  EDWARDS. 
Illustrated  I2mo. £2  oo 


12          HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

EDWARDS. — Modern  American  Marine  Engines,  Boilers,  and 

Screw  Propellers, 

Their  Design  and  Construction.  Showing  the  Present  Practice  of 
the  most  Eminent  Engineers  and  Marine  Engine  Builders  in  the 
United  States.  Illustrated  by  30  large  and  elaborate  plates.  4to.  $5.00 

EDWARDS.— The  Practical  Steam  Engineer's  Guide 

In  the  Design,  Construction,  and  Management  of  American  Stationary, 
Portable,  and  Steam  Fire- Engines,  Steam  Pumps,  Boilers,  Injectors, 
Governors,  Indicators,  Pistons  and  Rings,  Safety  Valves  and  Steam 
Gauges.  For  the  use  of  Engineers,  Firemen,  and  Steam  Users.  By 
EMORY  EDWARDS.  Illustrated  by  119  engravings.  420  pages, 
I2mo $2  50 

ELDER.— Conversations  on  the  Principal  Subjects  of  Political 

Economy. 
By  Dr.  WILLIAM  ELDER.  8vo. $2  50 

ELDER. — Questions  of  the  Day, 

Economic  and  Social.     By  Dr.  WILLIAM  ELDER.  8vo.     .        $3  oo 

ELDER.— Memoir  of  Henry  C.  Carey. 

By  Dr.  WILLIAM  ELDER.  8vo.  cloth 75 

ERNI.— Mineralogy  Simplified. 

Easy  Methods  of  Determining  and  Classifying  Minerals,  including 
Ores,  by  means  of  the  Blowj  ipe,  and  by  Humid  Chemical  Analysis, 
based  on  Professor  von  K obeli's  Tables  for  the  Determination  of 
Minerals,  with  an  Introduction  to  Modern  Chemistry.  By  HENRY 
ERNI,  A.M.,  M.D.,  Professor  of  Chemistry.  Second  Edition,  rewritten, 
enlarged  and  improved.  I2mo. 33  °° 

FAIRBAIRN.— The  Principles  of  Mechanism  and  Machinery 

of  Transmission  • 

Comprising  the  Principles  of  Mechanism,  Wheels,  and  Pulleys, 
Strength  and  Proportions  of  Shafts,  Coupling  of  Shafts,  and  Engag- 
ing and  Disengaging  Gear.  By  SIR  WILLIAM  FAIRBAIRN,  Bait. 
C.  E.  Beautifully  illustrated  by  over  150  wood-cuts.  In  one 
volume,  I2mo #2.50 

FITCH.— Bessemer  Steel, 

Ores  and  Methods,  New  Facts  and  Statistics  Relating  to  the  Types 
of  Machinery  in  Use,  the  Methods  in  Vogue,  Cost  and  Class  of  Labor 
employed,  and  the  Character  and  Availability  of  the  Ores  utilized  in 
the  Manufacture  of  Bessemer  Steel  in  Europe  and  in  the  United  States ; 
together  with  opinions  and  excerpts  from  various  accepted  authorities. 
Compiled  and  arranged  by  THOMAS  W.  FITCH.  8vo.  .  $3  oo 

JTLEMING. — Narrow  Gauge  Railways  in  America. 

A  Sketch  of  their  Rise,  Progress,  and  Success.  Valuable  Statistics 
as  to  Grades,  Curves,  Weight  of  Rail,  Locomotives,  Cars,  etc.  By 

!    HOWARD  FLEMING.     Illustrated,  8vo $i  50 

FORSYTH.— Book   of   Designs  for  Headstones,   Mural,   and 

other  Monuments : 

Containing  78  Designs.  By  JAMES  FORSYTH.  With  an  Introduction 
by  CHARLES  BOUTELL,  M.  A.  4  to.,  cloth  .  .  .  #5  oo 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.          13 

FRANKEL— HUTTER.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manu- 
facture of  Starch,  Glucose,  Starch- Sugar,  and  Dextrine  : 
Based  on  the  German  of  LADISLAUS  VON  WAGNER,  Professor  in  the 
Royal   Technical     High    School,   Buda-Pest,   Hungary,    and   other 
authorities.     By  JULIUS   FRANKEL,  Graduate    of   the    Polytechnic 
School  of  Hanover.     Edited  by  ROBERT  HUTTER,  Chemist,  Practical, 
Manufacturer  of  Starch-Sugar.     Illustrated  by  58  engravings,  cover- 
ing every  branch   of  the  subject,  including  examples  of  the  most 
Recent  and  Best  American  Machinery.     8vo.,  344  pp.       .         $3.50 

GEE. — The  Goldsmith's  Handbook  : 

Containing  full  instructions  for  the  Alloying  and  Working  of  Gold, 
including  the  Art  of  Alloying,  Melting,  Reducing,  Coloring,  Col- 
lecting, and  Refining;  the  Processes  of  Manipulation,  Recovery  of 
Waste;  Chemical  and  Physical  Properties  of  Gold;  with  a  New 
System  of  Mixing  its  Alloys;  Solders,  Enamels,  and  other  Useful 
Rules  and  Recipes.  By  GEORGE  E.  GEE.  I2mo.  .  .  $i-75 

GEE. — The  Silversmith's  Handbook  : 

Containing  full  instructions  for  the  Alloying  and  Working  of  Silver, 
including  the  different  modes  of  Refining  and  Melting  the  Metal ;  its 
Solders;  the  Preparation  of  Imitation  Alloys;  Methods  of  Manipula- 
tion; Prevention  of  Waste ;  Instructions  for  Improving  and  Finishing 
the  Surface  of  the  Work  ;  together  with  other  Useful  Information  and 
Memoranda.  By  GEORGE  E.  GEE,  Jeweller.  Illustrated.  I2mo. 

*'-75 

GOTHIC  ALBUM  FOR  CABINET-MAKERS  : 

Designs  for  Gothic  Furniture.    Twenty-three  plates.    Oblong     $2.00 

GREENWOOD.— Steel  and  Iron: 

Comprising  the  Practice  and  Theory  of  the  Several  Methods  Pur- 
sued in  their  Manufacture,  and  of  their  Treatment  in  the  Rolling- 
Mil  Is,  the  Forge,  and  the  Foundry.  By  WILLIAM  HENRY  GREEN- 
WOOD, F.  C.  S.  Asso.  M.  I.  C.  E.,  M.  I.  M.  E.,  Associate  of  the  Royal 
School  of  Mines.  With  97  Diagrams,  536  pages.  I2mo.  .  #2.00 

GREGORY. — Mathematics  for  Practical  Men: 

Adapted  to  the  Pursuits  of  Surveyors,  Architects,  Mechanics,  and 
Civil  Engineers.  By  OLINTHUS  GREGORY.  8vo.,  plates  .  $3.00 

GRIER. — Rural  Hydraulics: 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  Rural  Household  Water  Supply.  Giving  a 
full  description  of  Springs  and  Wells,  of  Pumps  and  Hydraulic  Ram, 
with  Instructions  in  Cistern  Building,  Laying  of  Pipes,  etc.  By  W. 
W.  GRIER.  Illustrated  8vo 75 

GRIMSH AW.— Modern  Milling: 

Being  the  substance  of  two  addresses  delivered  by  request,  at  the 
Franklin  Institute,  Philadelphia,  January  iQth  and  January  2yth, 
1881.  By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW,  Ph.  D.  Edited  from  the  Phono- 
graphic Reports.  With  28  Illustrations.  8vo.  .  .  $1.00 

GRIMSHAW.— Saws : 

The  History,  Development,  Action,  Classification,  and  Comparison 
of  Saws  of  all  kinds.  With  Copious  Appendices.  Giving  the  details 


14         HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

of  Manufacture,  Filing,  Setting,  Gumming,  etc.  Care  and  Use  of 
Saws ;  Tables  of  Gauges ;  Capacities  of  Saw-Mills ;  List  of  Saw- 
Patents,  and  other  valuable  information.  By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW. 
Second  and  greatly  enlarged  edition,  with  Supplement,  and  354  Illus- 
trations. Quarto $4.00 

GRIMSHAW. — A  Supplement  to  Grimshaw  on  Saws: 

Containing  additional  practical  matter,  more  especially  relating  to  the 
Forms  of  Saw-Teeth,  for  special  material  and  conditions,  and  to  the 
Behavior  of  Saws  under  particular  conditions.  120  Illustrations.  By 
ROHERT  GRIMSHAW.  Quarto $2.00 

GRISWOLD. — Railroad  Engineer's  Pocket  Companion  for  the 

Field : 

Comprising  Rules  for  Calculating  Deflection  Distances  and  Angles, 
Tangential  Distances  and  Angles,  and  all  Necessary  Tables  for  En- 
gineers; also  the  Art  of  Levelling  from  Preliminary  Survey  to  the 
Construction  of  Railroads,  intended  Expressly  for  the  Young  En- 
gineer, together  with  Numerous  Valuable  Rules  and  Examples.  By 
W.  GRISWOLD.  i2mo.,  tucks $i-75 

GRUNER. — Studies  of  Blast  Furnace  Phenomena: 

By  M.  L.  GRUNER,  President  of  the  General  Council  of  Mines  of 
France,  and  lately  Professor  of  Metallurgy  at  the  Ecole  des  Mines. 
Translated,  with  the  author's  sanction,  with  an  Appendix,  by  L.  D. 
B.  GORDON,  F.  R.  S.  E.,  F.  G.  S.  8vo.  .  .  .  $2.50 

GUETTIER.— Metallic  Alloys: 

Being  a  Practical  Guide  to  their  Chemical  and  Physical  Properties, 
their  Preparation,  Composition,  and  Uses.  Translated  from  the 
French  of  A.  GUETTIER,  Engineer  and  Director  of  Founderies, 
author  of  "  La  Fouderie  en  France,"  etc.,  etc.  By  A.  A.  FESQUET, 
Chemist  and  Engineer.  I2mo.  .  .  .  .  $3.00 

HASERICK. — The  Secrets  of  the  Art  of  Dyeing  Wool,  Cotton, 

and  Linen, 

Including  B  caching  and  Coloring  Wool  and  Cotton  Hosiery  and 
Random  Yarns.  A  Treatise  based  on  Economy  and  Practice.  By 
E.  C.  HASERICK.  Illustrated  by  323  Dyed  Patterns  of  the  Yarns 
or  Fabrics.  8vo. $25.00 

HATS  AND  FELTING: 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  their  Manufacture.  By  a  Practical  Hatter. 
Illustrated  by  Drawings  of  Machinery,  etc.  8vo.  .  .  $1.25 

HENRY.— The  Early  and  Later  History  of  Petroleum  : 

With  Authentic  Facts  in  regard  to  its  Development  in  Western  Penn- 
sylvania. With  Sketches  of  the  Pioneer  and  Prominent  Operators, 
togt-ther  with  the  Refining  Capacity  of  the  United  States.  By  J.  T. 
HENRY.  Illustrated  8vo.  ...... 

HOFFER.— A    Practical    Treatise    on    Caoutchouc  and   Gutta 

Percha, 

Comprising  the  Properties  of  the  Raw  Materials,  and  the  manner  of 
Mixing  and  Working  them;  with  the  Fabrication  of  Vulcani/ed  and 
Hard  Rubbers,  Caoutchouc  and  Gutta  Percha  Compositions,  Water- 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.          i$ 

proof  Substances,  Elastic  Tissues,  the  Utilization  of  Waste,  etc.,  eic. 
From  the  German  of  RAIMUND  HOFFER.  By  W.  T.  I? RAN  NT. 
Illustrated  I2mo.  .  .  .  ...  .  .  .  $2.50 

HOFMANN. — A   Practical   Treatise   on   the   Manufacture   of 

Paper  in  all  its  Branches  : 

By  CARL  HOFMANN,  Late  Superintendent  of  Paper-Mills  in  Germany 
and  the  United  States;  recently  Manager  of  the  "Public  Ledger" 
Paper  Mills,  near  Elkton,  Maryland.  Illustrated  by  no  wood  en- 
gravings, and  five  large  Folding  Plates.  4to.,  cloth;  about  400 
pages $3$.oo 

HUGHES.— American  Miller  and  Millwright's  Assistant: 
By  WILLIAM  CA.RTER  HUGHES.    i2mo.     ....        $1.50 

HULME. — Worked  Examination  Questions  in  Plane  Geomet- 
rical Drawing  : 

For  the  Use  of  Candidates  for  the  Royal  Military  Academy,  Wool- 
wich; the  Royal  Military  College,  Sandhurst ;  the  Indian  Civil  En- 
gineering College,  Cooper's  Hill  ;  Indian  Public  Works  and  Tele- 
graph Departments ;  Royal  Marine  Light  Infantry;  the  Oxford  and 
Cambridge  Local  Examinations,  etc.  By  F.  EDWARD  HULME,  F.  L. 
S.,  F.  S.  A.,  Art-Master  Marlborough  College.  Illustrated  by  300 
examples.  Small  quarto #3-75 

JER VIS.— Railroad  Property: 

A  Treatise  on  the  Construction  and  Management  of  Railways; 
designed  to  afford  useful  knowledge,  in  the  popular  style,  to  the 
holders  of  this  class  of  property  ;  as  well  as  Railway  Managers,  Offi- 
cers, and  Agents.  By  JOHN  B.  JERVIS,  late  Civil  Engineer  of  the 
Hudson  River  Railroad,  Croton  Aqueduct,  etc.  i2mo.,  cloth  $2.00 

KEENE.— A  Hand-Book  of  Practical  Gauging : 

For  the  Use  of  Beginners,  to  which  is  added  a  Chapter  on  Distilla- 
tion, describing  the  process  in  operation  at  the  Custom- House  for 
ascertaining  the  Strength  of  Wines.  By  JAMES  B.  KEENE,  of  H.  M. 
Customs.  8vo. #1.25 

KELLEY.— Speeches,  Addresses,  and  Letters  on  Industrial  and 

Financial  Questions : 
By  HON.  WILLIAM  D.  KELLEY,  M.  C.     544  pages,  8vo.  .         $3.00 

KELLOGG.— A  New  Monetary  System  : 

The  only  means  of  Securing  the  respective  Rights  of  Labor  and 
Property,  and  of  Protecting  the  Public  from  Financial  Revulsions. 
By  EDWARD  KELLOGG.  Revised  from  his  work  on  "  Labor  and 
other  Capital."  With  numerous  additions  from  his  m~micrript. 
Edited  by  MARY  KELLOGG  PUTNAM.  Fifth  edition.  To  which  is 
added  a  Biographical  Sketch  of  the  Author.  One  volume,  I2mo. 

Paper  cover $1.00 

Bound  in  cloth 1-5° 

fcEMLO.— Watch-Repairer's  Hand-Book : 

Being  a  Complete  Guide  to  the  Young  Beginner,  in  Taking  Apart, 
Putting  Together,  and  Thoroughly  Cleaning  the  English  Lever  and 
other  Foreign  Watches,  and  all  American  Watches.  By  F.  KEMLO, 
Practical  Watchmaker.  With  Illustrations.  I2mo.  .  #1.25 


16  HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

KENTISH. — A  Treatise  on  a  Box  of  Instruments, 

And  the  Slide  Rule;  with  the  Theory  of  Trigonometry  and  Loga- 
rithms,.including  Practical  Geometry,  Surveying,  Measuring  of  Tim- 
ber, Cask  and  Malt  Gauging,  Heights,  and  Distances.  By  THOMAS 
KENTISH.  In  one  volume.  I2mo.  ....  $1.25 

KERL.— The  Assayer's  Manual: 

An  Abridged  Treatise  on  the  Docimastic  Examination  of  Ores,  and 
Furnace  and  other  Artificial  Products.  By  BRUNO  KERL,  Professor 
in  the  Royal  School  of  Mines ;  Member  of  the  Royal  Technical 
Commission  for  the  Industries,  and  of  the  Imperial  Patent-Office, 
Berlin.  Translated  from  the  German  by  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT, 
Graduate  of  the  Royal  Agricultural  College  of  Eldena,  Prussia. 
Edited  by  WILLIAM  H.  WAHL,  Ph.  D.,  Secretary  of  the  Franklin 
Institute,  Philadelphia.  Illustrated  by  sixty-five  engravings.  8vo. 

$3-00 

KINGZETT. — The   History,  Products,  and   Processes  of  the 

Alkali  Trade : 

Including  the  most  Recent  Improvements.  By -CHARLES  THOMAS 
KINGZETT,  Consulting  Chemist.  With  23  illustrations.  8vo.  $2.50 

KINSLEY.— Self-Instructor  on  Lumber  Surveying: 

For  the  Use  of  Lumber  Manufacturers,  Surveyors,  and  Teachers. 
By  CHARLES  KINSLEY,  Practical  Surveyor  and  Teacher  of  Surveying. 
I2mo.  ..........  $2.00 

KIRK.— The  Founding  of  Metals  : 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Melting  of  Iron,  with  a  Description  of  the 
Founding  of  Alloys;  also,  of  all  the  Metals  and  Mineral  Substances 
used  in  the  Art  of  Founding.  Collected  from  original  sources.  By 
EDWARD  KIRK,  Practical  Foundryman  and  Chemist.  Illustrated. 
Third  edition.  8vo.  .......  $2.50 

KITTREDGE.— The    Compendium    of    Architectural    Sheet- 
Metal  Work : 

Profusely  Illustrated.  Embracing  Rules  and  Directions  for  Estimates, 
Items  of  Cost,  Nomenclature,  Tables  of  Brackets,  Modillions,  Den- 
tals, Trusses,  Stop-Blocks,  Frieze  Pieces,  etc.  Architect's  Specifica- 
tion, Tables  of  Tin-Roofing,  Galvanized  Iron,  etc.,  etc.  To  which  is 
added  the  Exemplar  of  Architectural  Sheet-Metal  Work,  containing 
details  of  the  Centennial  Buildings,  and  other  important  Sheet- Metal 
Work,  Designs  and  Prices  of  Architectural  Ornaments,  as  manufac- 
tured for  the  Trade  by  the  Kittredge  Cornice  and  Ornament  Com- 
pany, and  a  Catalogue  of  Cornices,  Window-Caps,  Mouldings, etc.,  as 
manufactured  by  the  Kittredge  Cornice  and  Ornament  Company. 
The  whole  supplemented  by  a  full  Index  and  Table  of  Contents.  By 
A.  O.  KITTREDGE.  8vo.,  565  pages  .  ... 

LANDRIN.— A  Treatise  on  Steel : 

Comprising  its  Theory,  Metallurgy,  Properties,  Practical  Working, 
and  Use.  By  M.  H.  C.  LANDRIN,  JR.,  Civil  Engineer.  Translated 
from  the  French,  with  Notes,  by  A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chemist  and  En- 
gineer. With  an  Appendix  on  the  Bessemer  and  the  Martin  Pro- 
cesses for  Manufacturing  Steel,  from  the  Report  of  Abram  S.  Hewitt 


HENRY  CAREY   BAIRD   &   CO.'S   CATALOGUE.        17 

feARKIN. — The  Practical  Brass  and  Iron  Founder's  Guide: 
A  Concise  Treatise  on  Brass  Founding,  Moulding,  the  Metals  and 
their  Alloys,  etc. ;  to  which  are  added  Recent  Improvements  in  the 
Manufacture  of  Iron,  Steel  by  the  Bessemer  Process,  etc.,  etc.  By 
JAMES  LARKIX,  lale  Conductor  of  the  Brass  Foundry  Department  ii; 
Reany,  Neafie  &  Co.'s  Penn  Works,  Pniladeiphia.  fifth  edition, 
revised,  with  extensive  additions.  121110.  .  .  .  $2.25 

LJSROUX.— A    Practical     Treatise     on    the    Manufacture    of 

Worsteds  and  Carded  Yarns  : 

Comprising  Practical  Mechanics,  with  Rules  and  Calculations  applied 
to  Spinning;  Sorting,  Cleaning,  and  Scouring  Wools;  the  English 
and  French  Methods  of  Combing,  Drawing,  and  Spinning  Worsteds, 
and  Manufacturing  Carded  Yarns.  Translated  from  the  French  of 
CHARLES  LKROUX,  Mech-mical  Engineer  and  Su[>erintendent  of  a 
Spinning-Mill,  by  HORATIO  PAIXE,  M.  D.,  and  A.  A.  FESQUET, 
Chemist  and  Engineer.  Illustrated  by  twelve  large  Plates.  To  which 
is  added  an  Appendix,  containing  Extracts  .from  the  Reports  of  the 
International  jury,  and  of  the  Artisans  selected  by  the  Committee 
appointed  by  the  Council  of  the  Society  of  Aits,  London,  on  Woole/i 
and  Worsted  Machinery  and  Fabrics,  as  exhibited  in  the  Paris  Uni- 
versal Exposition,  1867.  8vo.  $5.00 

LEFFEL. — The  Construction  of  Mill-Dams : 
Comprising  also  the  Birlding  of  Race  and   Reservoir  Embankments 
and   Head-Gates,  the   Measurement  of  Streams,  Gauging  of  Water 
Supply,  etc.     By  JAMES  LEFFEL  &  Co.    Illustrated  by  58  engravings. 
8vo. $250 

LESLIE.— Complete  Cookery: 

Directions  for  Cookery  in  its  Various  Branches.  By  Miss  LESLIE. 
Sixtieth  thoasand.  Thoroughly  revised,  with  the  addition  of  New 
Receipts.  In  I2mo.,  cloth $1.50 

JUIEBER.— Assayer's  Guide  : 

Or,  Practical  Directions  to  Assayers,  Miners,  and  Smelters,  for  the 
Tests  and  Assays,  by  Heat  and  by  Wet  Processes,  for  the  Ores  of  all 
the  principal  Metals,  of  Gold  and  Silver  Coins  and  Alloys,  and  of 
Coal,  etc.  By  OSCAR  M.  LIET?ER.  I2mo.  .  .  .  $1.25 

Lockwood's  Dictionary  of  Terms  : 

Used  in  the  Practice  of  Mechanical  Engineering,  embracing  those 
Current  in  the  Drawing  Office,  Pattern  Shop.  Foundry,  Fitting,  Turn- 
ing, Smith's  and  Boiler  Shops,  etc.,  etc.,  comprising  upwards  of  Six 
Thousand  Definitions.  Edittd  by  a  Foreman  Pattern  Maker,  author 
of  "  Pattern  Making."  417  pp.  121110.  .  .  .  $3.00 

LOVE. — The  Art  of  Dyeing,  Cleaning,  Scouring,  and  Finish- 
ing, on  the  Most  Approved  English  and  French  Methods : 
Being  Practical  Instructions  in  Dyeing  Silks,  Woolens,  and  Cottons, 
Feathers,  Chips,  Straw,  etc.  Scouring  and  Cleaning  Bed  and  Win- 
dow Curtains,  Carpels,  Rugs,  etc.  trench  and  English  Cleaning, 
any  Color  or  Fabric  of  Siik,  Satin,  or  Damask.  By  THOMAS  LOVE, 
a  Working  Dyer  and  Scuuier-  Second  American  Edition*  to  which 


tS         HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

are  added  General  Instructions  for  the  use  of  Aniline  Colors.     8vo. 

343  Pages #5-°° 

LUKIN.— Amongst  Machines; 

Embracing  Descriptions  ot  the  various  Mechanical  Appliances  used 
in  the  Manufacture  of  Wood,  Metal,  and  other  Substances.  »2mo. 

#i-75 
LUKIN.— The  Boy  Engineers: 

What  They  Did,  and  How  They  Did  It.     With  30  plates.     i8mo. 

#i-75 

LUKIN. — The  Young  Mechanic  : 

Practical  Carpentry.  Containing  Directions  for  the  Use  of  all  kinds 
of  Tools,  and  for  Construction  of  Steam-  Engines  and  Mechanical 
Models,  including  the  Art  of  Turning  in  Wood  and  Metal.  By  JOHN 
LUKIN,  Author  of  "The  Lathe  and  Its  Uses,"  etc.  Illustrated. 
I2mo $1.75 

MAIN  and  BROWN. — Questions  on  Subjects  Connected  with 

the  Marine  Steam-Engine: 

And  Examination  Papers;  with  Hints  for  their  Solution.  By 
THOMAS  J.  MAIN,  Professor  of  Mathematics,  Royal  Naval  College, 
and  THOMAS  BROWN,  Chief  Engineer,  R.  N.  121110.,  cloth  .  $1.50 

MAIN  and  BROWN.— The  Indicator  and  Dynamometer: 

With  their  Practical  Applications  to  the  Steam-Engine.  By  THOMAS 
J.  MAIN,  M.  A.  F.  R.,  Ass't  S.  Professor  Royal  Naval  College, 
Portsmouth,  and  THOMAS  BROWN,  Assoc.  Inst.  C.  E.,  Chief  Engineer 
R.  N.,  attached  to  the  R.  N.  College.  Illustrated.  8vo.  .  $1.50 

MAIN  and  BROWN.— The  Marine  Steam-Engine. 

By  THOMAS  J.  MAIN,  F.  R.  Ass't  S.  Mathematical  Professor  at  the 
Royal  Naval  College,  Portsmouth,  and  THOMAS  BROWN,  Assoc. 
Inst.  C.  E.,  Chief  Engineer  R.  N.  Attached  to  the  Royal  Naval 
College.  With  numerous  illustrations.  8vo.  .  .  .  $5-°° 

MARTIN.— Screw-Cutting  Tables,  for  the  Use  of  Mechanical 

Engineers : 

Showing  the  Proper  Arrangement  of  Wheels  for  Cutting  the  Threads 
of  Screws  of  any  Required  Pitch ;  with  a  Table  for  Making  the  Uni- 
versal Gas-Pipe  Thread  and  Taps.  By  W.  A.  MARTIN,  Engineer. 
8vo 50 

MICHELLl.— Mine  Drainage: 

Being  a  Complete  and  Practical  Treatise  on  Direct- Acting  Under- 
ground Steam  Pumping  Machinery.  With  a  Description  of  a  large 
number  of  the  best  known  Engines,  their  General  Utility  and  the 
Special  Sphere  of  their  Action,  the  Mode  of  their  Application,  and 
their  Merits  compared  with  other  Pumping  Machinery.  By  STEPHEN 
MlCHELL.  Illustrated  by  137  engravings.  8vo.,  277  pages  ,  $6.00 

MOLESWORTH.— Pocket-Book    of    Useful     Formulae     and 

Memoranda  for  Civil  and  Mechanical  Engineers. 
By  GUILFORD  L.  MOLESWORTH,  Member  of  the  Institution  of  Civil 
Engineers,  Chief  Resident   Engineer  of  the  Ceylon  Railway.     Full- 
bound  in  Pocket-book  form      .         .         .         •         •         •         $1.00 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.          19 

MOORE. — The  Universal  Assistant  and  the  Complete  Me- 
chanic : 

Containing  over  one  million  Industrial  Facts,  Calculations,  Receipts, 
Processes,  Trades  Secrets,  Rules,  Business  Forms,  Legal  Items,  Etc., 
in  every  occupation,  from  the  Household  to  the  Manufactory.  Bj 
R.  MOORE.  Illustrated  by  500  Engravings.  I2mo.  .  $2.50 

MORRIS. — Easy  Rules  for  the  Measurement  of  Earthworks  : 
By  means  of  the  Prismoidal  Formula.  Illustrated  with  Numeroui 
Wood-Cuts,  Problems,  and  Examples,  and  concluded  by  an  Exten- 
sive Table  for  finding  the  Solidity  in  cubic  yards  from  Mean  Areas. 
The  whole  being  adapted  for  convenient  use  by  Engineers,  Surveyors, 
Contractors,  and  others  needing  Correct  Measurements  of  Earthwork. 
By  ELWOOD  MORRIS,  C.  E.  8vo.  .....  $1.50 

MORTON. — The  System  of  Calculating  Diameter,  Circumfer- 
ence, Area,  and  Squaring  the  Circle  : 

Together  with  Interest  and  Miscellaneous  Tables,  and  other  informa- 
tion. By  JAMES  MORTON.  Second  Edition,  enlarged,  with  the 
Metric  System.  I2mo $1.00 

NAPIER.— Manual  of  Electro-Metallurgy: 

Including  the  Application  of  the  Art  to  Manufacturing  Processes. 
By  JAMES  NAPIER.  Fourth  American,  from  the  Fourth  London 
edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  Illustrated  by  engravings.  8vo.  $1.50 

NAPIER. — A  System  of  Chemistry  Applied  to  Dyeing. 

By  JAMES  NAPIER,  F.  C.  S.  A  New  and  Thoroughly  Revised  Edi- 
tion. Completely  brought  up  to  the  present  state  of  the  Science, 
including  the  Chemistry  of  Coal  Tar  Colors,  by  A.  A.  FESQUET, 
Chemist  and  Engineer.  With  an  Appendix  on  Dyeing  and  Calico 
Printing,  as  shown  at  the  Universal  Exposition,  Paris,  1867.  Illus- 
trated. 8vo.  422  pages .  $5.00 

NEVILLE.— Hydraulic  Tables,  Coefficients,  and  Formulae,  for 
rinding  the  Discharge  of  Water  from  Orifices,  Notches, 
Weirs,  Pipes,  and  Rivers : 

Third  Edition,  with  Additions,  consisting  of  New  Formulae  for  the 
Discharge  from  Tidal  and  Flood  Sluices  and  Siphons ;  general  infor- 
mation on  Rainfall,  Catchment-Basins,  Drainage,  Sewerage,  Water 
Supply  for  Towns  and  Mill  Power.  By  IOHN  NEVILLE,  C.  E.  M.  R, 
I.  A. ;  Fellow  of  the  Royal  Geological  Society  of  Ireland.  Thick 
I2mo 15.50 

NEWBERY. — Gleanings     from     Ornamental    Art    of    every 

style : 

Drawn  from  Examples  in  the  British,  South  Kensington,  Indian, 
Crystal  Palace,  and  other  Museums,  the  Exhibitions  of  1851  and 
1862,  and  the  best  English  and  Foreign  works.  In  a  series  of  loo 
exquisitely  drawn  Plates,  containing  many  hundred  examples.  By 
ROBERT  NEWBERY.  410. $12.50 

NICHOLLS.  —The  Theoretical  and  Practical  Boiler-Maker  and 

Engineer's  Reference  Book: 

Containing  a  variety  of  Useful  Information  for  Employers  of  Labor. 
Foremen  and  Working  Boiler-Makers,  Iron,  Copper,  and  Tinsmiths* 


90         HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

Draughtsmen,  Engineers,  the  General  Steam-using  Public,  and  for  the 
Use  of  Science  Schools  and  Classes.  By  SAMUEL  NICHOLLS.  Illus- 
trated  by  sixteen  plates,  I2mo.  .  .  .  .  .  $2.50 

NICHOLSON.— A  Manual  of  the  Art  of  Bookbinding : 

Containing  full  instructions  in  the  different  Branches  of  Forwarding, 
Gilding,  and  Finishing.  Also,  the  Art  of  Marbling  Book-edges  and 
Paper.  By  JAMES  B.  NICHOLSON.  Illustrated.  I2mo.,  cloth  $2.25 

NICOLLS.— The  Railway  Builder: 

A  Hand-Book  for  Estimating  the  Probable  Cost  of  American  Rail- 
way Construction  and  Equipment.  By  WILLIAM  J.  NICOLLS,  Civil 
Engineer.  Illustrated,  full  bound,  pocket-book  form  .  $2.00 

NORMANDY.— The  Commercial  Handbook  of  Chemical  An- 

alysis : 

Or  Practical  Instructions  for  the  Determination  of  the  Intrinsic  OT 
Commercial  Value  of  Substances  used  in  Manufactures,  in  Trades, 
and  in  the  Arts.  By  A.  NORMANDY.  New  Edition,  Enlarged,  and 
to  a  great  extent  rewritten.  By  HENRY  M.  NOAD,  Ph.D.,  F.R.S., 
thick  I2mo.  ..........  $5.00 

NORRIS. — A  Handbook  for  Locomotive   Engineers  and  Ma- 
chinists : 

Comprising  the  Proportions  and  Calculations  for  Constructing  Loco- 
motives; Manner  of  Setting  Valves;  Tables  of  Squares,  Cubes,  Areas, 
etc.,  etc.  By  SEPTIMUS  NORRIS,  M.  E.  New  edition.  Illustrated, 
I2mo |i-5o 

NYSTRGM.— A  New  Treatise  on  Elements  of  Mechanics  : 
Establishing  Strict  Precision  in  the   Meaning  of  Dynamical   Terms: 
accompanied  with  an  Appendix  on  Duodenal  Arithmetic  and   Me 
trology.     By  JOHN  W.  NYSTROM,  C.  E.     Illustrated.     8vo.        $2.00 

NYSTROM. — On  Technological  Education  and  the  Construc- 
tion of  Ships  and  Screw  Propellers : 

For  Naval  and  Marine  Engineers.  By  JOHN  W.  NYSTROM,  late 
Acting  Chief  Engineer,  U.  S.  N.  Second  edition,  revised,  with  addi- 
tional matter.  Illustrated  by  seven  engravings.  I2mo.  .  $1.50 

O'NEILL. — A  Dictionary  of  Dyeing  and  Calico  Printing: 
-  Containing  a  brief  account  of  all  the  Substances  and  Processes  in 
use  in  the  Art  of  Dyeing  and  Printing  Textile  Fabrics  ;  with  Practical 
Receipts  and  Scientific  Information.  By  CHARLES  O'NEILL,  Analy- 
tical Chemist.  To  which  is  added  an  Essay  on  Coal  Tar  Colors  and 
their  application  to  Dyeing  and  Calico  Printing.  By  A.  A.  FESQUET, 
Chemist  and  Engineer.  With  an  appendix  on  Dyeing  and  Calico 
Printing,  as  shown  at  the  Universal  Exposition,  Paris,  1867-  8vo., 
491  pages $5.00 

ORTON. — Underground  Treasures'. 

How  and  Where  to  Find  Them.  A  Key  for  the  Ready  Determin-ation 
of  all  the  Useful  Minerals  within  the  United  States.  By  JAMES 
ORTON,  A.M.,  Late  Professor  of  Natural  History  in  Vassar  College, 
£3.  Y.;  Cor.  Mem.  of  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Philadelphia, 
and  of  the  Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  New  York ;  author  of  the 
'•Andes  and  the  Amazon,"  etc.  A  New  Edition,  with  Additions. 
Illustrated $1.50 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.          21 


OSBORN. — The  Metallurgy  of  Iron  and  Steel: 

Theoretical  and  Practical  in  all  its  Branches;  with  special 
to  American  Materials  and  Processes.  By  II.  S.  O.HORN,  LL.  D., 
Professor  of  Mining  and  Metallurgy  in  Lafayette  College,  Easton, 
Pennsylvania.  Illustrated  by  numerous  large  folding  plates  and 
wood-engravings.  8vo.  ......  #25.00 

OSBORN. — A  Practical  Manual  of  Minerals,  Mines  and  Min- 
ing : 

Comprising  the  Physical  Properties,  Geologic  Positions,  Local  Occur- 
rence and  Associations  of  the  Useful  Minerals ;  their  Methods  of 
Chemical  Analysis  and  Assay :  together  with  Various  Systems  of 
Excavating  and  Timbering,  Brick  and  Mnsonry  Work,  during  Driv- 
ing, Lining,  Bracing  and  other  Operations,  etc.  By  Prof.  H.  S. 
OSBORN,  LL.  D.,  Author  of  the  "  Metallurgy  of  Iron  and  Steel." 
Illustrated  by  171  engravings  from  original  drawings.  8vo.  #4-5° 

OVERMAN.— The  Manufacture  of  Steel : 

Containing  the  Practice  and  Principles  of  Working  and  Making  Steel. 
A  Handbook  for  Blacksmiths  and  Workers  in  Steel  and  Iron,  Wagon 
Makers,  Die  Sinkers,  Cutlers,  and  Manufacturers  of  Files  and  Hard- 
ware, of  Steel  and  Iron,  and  for  Men  of  Science  and  Art.  By 
FREDERICK  OVERMAN,  Mining  Engineer,  Author  of  the  "  Manu- 
facture of  Iron,"  etc.  A  new,  enlarged,  and  revised  Edition.  By 
A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chemist  and  Engineer.  I2mo.  .  .  $1.50 

OVERMAN. — The  Moulder's  and  Founder's  Pocket  Guide  : 
A  Treatise  on  Moulding  and  Founding  in  Green-sand,  Dry-sand,  Loam, 
and  Cement;  the  Moulding  of  Machine  Frames,  Mill-gear,  Hollow- 
ware,  Ornaments,  Trinkets,  Bells,  and  Statues;  Description  of  Moulds 
for  Iron,  Bronze,  Brass,  and  other  Metals ;  Plaster  of  Paris,  Sulphur, 
Wax,  etc. ;  the  Construction  of  Melting  Furnaces,  the  Melting  and 
Founding  of  Metals  ;  the  Composition  of  Alloys  and  their  Nature, 
etc.,  etc.  By  FREDERICK  OVERMAN,  M.  E.  A  new  Edition,  to 
which  is  added  a  Supplement  on  Statuary  and  Ornamental  Moulding, 
Ordnance,  Malleable  Iron  Castings,  etc.  By  A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chem- 
ist and  Engineer.  Illustrated  by  44  engravings.  I2mo.  .  $2.<M 

PAINTER,  GILDER,  AND  VARNISHER'S  COMPANION; 
Containing  Rules  and  Regulations  in  everything  relating  to  the  AnS 
of  Painting,  Gilding,  Varnishing,  Glass-Staining,  Graining,  Marbling, 
Sign- Writing,  Gilding  on  Gla.>s,  and  Coach  Painting  and  Varnishing; 
Tests  for  the  Detection  of  Adulterations  in  Oils,  Colors,  etc. ;  and  a 
Statement  of  the  Diseases  to  which  Painters  are  peculiarly  liable,  with 
the  Simplest  and  Best  Remedies.  Sixteenth  Edition.  Revised,  with 
an  Appendix.  Containing  Colors  and  Coloring — Theoretical  and 
Practical.  Comprising  descriptions  of  a  great  variety  of  Additional 
Pigments,  their  Qualities  and  Uses,  to  which  are  added,  Dryers,  and 
Modes  and  Operations  of  Painting,  etc.  Together  with  Chevreui's 
Principles  of  Harmony  and  Contrast  of  Colors.  I2mo.  Cloth  $1.50 

PALLETT. — The  Miller's,  Millwright's,  and  Engineer's  Guide, 
By  HENRY  PALLETT.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  .  .  .  $2.00 


22         HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

PERCY. — The  Manufacture  of  Russian  Sheet-Iron. 

By  JOHN  PERCY,  M.  D.,  F.  R.  S.,  Lecturer  on  Metallurgy  at  the 
Royal  School  of  Mines,  and  to  The  Advance  Class  of  Artillery 
Officers  at  the  Royal  Artillery  Institution,  Woolwich;  Author  of 
"  Metallurgy."  With  Illustrations.  8vo.,  paper  .  .  50  ctst 

PERKINS. — Gas  and  Ventilation  : 

Practical  Treatise  on  Gas  and  Ventilation.  With  Special  Relation 
to  Illuminating,  Heating,  and  Cooking  by  Gas.  Including  Scientific 
Helps  to  Engineer-students  and  others.  With  Illustrated  Diagrams. 
By  E.  E.  PERKINS.  I2mo.,  cloth #1.25 

PERKINS  AND  STOWE.— A  New  Guide  to  the  Sheet-iron 

and  Boiler  Plate  Roller  : 

Containing  a  Series  of  Tables  showing  the  Weight  of  Slabs  and  Piles 
to  Produce  Boiler  Plates,  and  of  the  Weight  of  Piles  and  the  Sizes  of 
Bars  to  produce  Sheet-iron ;  the  Thickness  of  the  Bar  Gauge 
in  decimals;  the  Weight  per  foot,  and  the  Thickness  on  the  Bar  or 
Wire  Gauge  of  the  fractional  parts  of  an  inch;  the  Weight  per 
sheet,  and  the  Thickness  on  the  Wire  Gauge  of  Sheet-iron  of  various 
dimensions  to  weigh  1 12  Ibs.  per  bundle;  and  the  conversion  of 
Short  Weight  into  Long  Weight,  and  Long  Weight  into  Short. 
Estimated  and  collected  by  G.  H.  PERKINS  and  J.  G.  STOWE.  $2.53 

POWELI — CHANCE— HARRIS.— The    Principles  of   Glass 

Making. 

By  HARRY  J.  POWELL,  B.  A.  Together  with  Treatises  on  Crown  and 
Sheet  Glass;  by  HENRY  CHANCE,  M.  A.  And  Plate  Glass,  by  H. 
G.  HARRIS,  Asso.  M.  Inst.  C.  E.  Illustrated  i8mo.  .  $!.$<* 

PROCTOR.— A  Pocket-Book  of  Useful  Tables  and  Formulae 

for  Marine  Engineers  : 

By  FRANK  PROCTOR.  Second  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged. 
Full -bound  pocket-book  form $1.50 

REGNAULT.— Elements  of  Chemistry: 

By  M.  V.  REGNAULT.  Translated  from  the  French  by  T.  FORREST 
BETTON,  M.  D.,  and  edited,  with  Notes,  by  JAMES  C.  BOOTH,  Melter 
and  Refiner  U.  S.  Mint,  and  WILLIAM  L.  FABER,  Metallurgist  and 
Mining  Engineer.  Illustrated  by  nearly  700  wood-engravings.  Com- 
prising nearly  1,500  pages.  In  two  volumes,  8vo.,  cloth  .  $7.50 

RICHARDS. — Aluminium  : 

Its  History,  Occurrence,  Properties,  Metallurgy  and  Applications, 
including  its  Alloys.  By  JOSEPH  W.  RICHARDS,  A.  C.,  Chemist  and 
Practical  Metallurgist,  Member  of  the  Deutsche  Chemische  Gesell- 
schnft.  Illustrated  by  16  engravings.  12  mo.  346  pages  $2.50 

RIFFAULT,  VERGNAUD,  and  TOUSSAINT.— A  Practical 

Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Colors  for  Painting : 
Comprising  the  Origin,  Definition,  and  Classification  of  Colors;  the 
Treatment  of  the  Raw  Materials ;  the  best  Formulae  and  the  Newest 
Processes  for  the  Preparation  of  every  description  of  Pigment,  and 
the  Necessary  Apparatus  and  Directions  for  its  Use;  Dryers;  the 
Testing,  Application,  and  Qualities  of  Paints,  etc.,  etc.  By  MM. 
RIFFAULT,  VERGNAUD,  and  TOUSSAINT.  Revised  and  Edited  by  M. 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.  23 

F.  MALEPEYRE.  Translated  from  the  French,  by  A.  A.  FESQUET; 
Chemist  and  Engineer.  Illustrated  by  Eighty  engravings.  In  one 
vol..  8vo.,  659  pages &/-50 

ROPER.— A  Catechism  of  High-Pressure,  or  Non-Condensing 

Steam- Engines  : 

Including  the  Modelling,  Constructing,  and  Management  of  Steam- 
Engines  and  Steam  Boilers.  With  valuable  illustrations.  By  STE- 
PHEN ROPER.  Engineer.  Sixteenth  edition,  revised  and  enlarged. 
l8mo.,  tucks,  gilt  edge $2.oc 

ROPER. — Engineer's  Handy-Book: 

Containing  a  full  Explanation  of  the  Steam-Engine  Indicator,  and  its 
Use  and  Advantages  to  Engineers  and  Steam  Users.  With  Formulae 
for  Estimating  the  Power  of  all  Classes  of  Steam-Engines;  also. 
Facts,  Figures,  Questions,  and  Tables  for  Engineers  who  wish  to 
qualify  themselves  for  the  United  States  Navy,  the  Revenue  Service, 
the  Mercantile  Marine,  or  to  take  charge  of  the  Better  Class  of  Sta- 
tionary Steam-Engines.  Sixth  edition.  i6mo.,  690  pages,  tucks, 
gilt  edge $3.50 

ROPER. — Hand-Book  of  Land  and  Marine  Engines  : 

Including  the  Modelling,  Construction,  Running,  and  Management 
of  Lane1  and  Marine  Engines  and  Boilers.  With  illustrations.  By 
STEPHEN  ROPER,  Engineer.  Sixth  edition.  I2mo.,h'cks,  gilt  edge. 

#3-5<> 
ROPER.— Hand-Book  of  the  Locomotive  : 

Including  the  Construction  of  Engines  and  Boilers,  and  the  Construc- 
tion, Management,  and  Running  of  Locomotives.  By  STEPHEN 
ROPER.  Eleventh  edition.  i8mo.,  tucks,  gilt  edge  .  $2.50 

ROPER. — Hand-Book  of  Modern  Steam  Fire-Engines. 

With  illustrations.  By  STEPHEN  ROPER,  Engineer.  Fourth  edition, 
I2mo.,  tucks,  gilt  edge  .......  $3.50 

ROPER. — Questions  and  Answers  for  Engineers. 

This  little  book  contains  all  the  Questions  that  Engineers  will  be 
asked  when  undergoing  an  Examination  for  the  purpose  of  procuring 
Licenses,  and  they  are  so  plain  that  any  Engineer  or  Fireman  of  or 
dinary  intelligence  may  commit  them  to  memory  in  a  short  time.  By 
STEPHEN  ROPER,  Engineer.  Third  edition  .  .  .  $3.00 

ROPER.— Use  and  Abuse  of  the  Steam  Boiler. 
By  STEPHEN   ROPER,  Engineer.     Eighth  edition,  with   illustrations. 
i8mo.,  tucks,  gilt  edge $2.00 

ROSE. — The  Complete  Practical  Machinist : 

Embracing  Lathe  Work,  Vise  Work,  Drills  and  Drilling,  Taps  and 
Dies,  Hardening  and  Tempering,  the  Making  and  Use  of  Tools, 
Tool  Grinding,  Marking  out  Work,  etc.  By  JOSHUA  ROSE.  Illus- 
trated by  356  engravings.  Thirteenth  edition,  thoroughly  revised 
and  in  great  part  rewritten.  In  one  vol.,  I2mo.,  439  pages  $2.50 

ROSE. — Mechanical  Drawing  Self-Taught: 

Comprising  Instructions  in  the  Selection  and  Preparation  of  Drawing 
Instruments,  Elementary  Instruction  in  Practical  Mechanical  Draw- 


24         HENRY  CAREY  BATRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

ing,  together  with  Examples  in  Simple  Geometry  and  Elementary 
Mechanism,  including  Screw  Threads,  Gear  Wheels,  Mechanical 
Motions,  Engines  and  Boilers.  By  JOSHUA  ROSE,  M.  E.  Illustrated 
by  330  engravings.  8vo  ,313  pages  ....  $4.00 

ROSE. — The  Slide- Valve  Practically  Explained: 

Embracing  simple  and  complete  Practical  Demonstrations  of  the 
operation  of  each  element  in  a  Slide-valve  Movement,  and  illustrat- 
ing the  effects  of  Variations  in  their  Proportions  by  examples  care- 
fully selected  from  the  most  recent  and  successful  practice.  By 
JOSHUA  ROSE,  M.  E.  Illustrated  by  35  engravings  .  $i.co 

ROSS. — The  Blowpipe  in  Chemistry,  Mineralogy  and  Geology: 
Containing  all  Known  Method*  of  Anhydrous  Analysis,  many  \Yi>rk- 
ing  Examples,  and  Instructions  for  Making  Apparatus.  By  LIKUT.- 
COLONEL  W.  A.  Ross,  R.  A.,  F.  G.  S.  With  120  Illustrations. 

121110 $2.OO 

SHAW.— Civil  Architecture: 

Being  a  Complete  Theoretical  and  Practical  System  of  Building,  con- 
tnining  the  Fundamental  Principles  of  the  Art.  By  EDWARD  SHAW, 
Architect.  To  which  is  added  a  Treatise  on  Gothic  Architecture,  etc. 
By  THOMAS  W.  SILLOWAY  and  GEORGE  M.  HARDING,  Architects. 
The  whole  illustrated  by  102  quarto  plates  finely  engraved  on  copper. 
Eleventh  edition.  4to.  .......  $10.00 

SHUNK. — A  Practical  Treatise  on  Railway  Curves  and  Loca- 
tion, for  Young  Engineers. 
By  W.  F.  SHUNK,  C.  E.     121110.    Full  bound  pocket-book  form  $2.00 

SLATER. — The  Manual  of  Colors  and  Dye  Wares. 
By  J.  W.  SLATER.     i2mo $3-75 

SLOAN. — American  Houses  : 

A  variety  of  Original  Designs  for  Rural  Buildings.  Illustrated  by 
26  colored  engravings,  with  descriptive  references.  By  SAMUEL 
SLOAN,  Architect.  8vo. $1.50 

SLOAN. — Homestead  Architecture  : 

Containing  Forty  Designs  for  Villas,  Cottages,  and  Farm-houses,  with 
Essnys  on  Style,  Construction,  Landscape  Gardening,  Furniture,  etc., 
etc.  Illustrated  by  upwards  of  200  engravings.  By  SAMUEL  SLOAN, 
Architect.  8vo $3-5o 

SLOANE. — Home  Experiments  in  Science. 
By  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE,  E.  M.,  A.M.,  Ph.D.     Illustrated  by  91 
engravings.     I2mo.  .......         $1.50 

SMEATON. — Builder's  Pocket-Companion  : 

Containing  the  Elements  of  Building,  Surveying,  and  Architecture; 
with  Practical  Rules  and  Instructions  connected  with  the  subject. 
By  A.  C.  SMEATON,  Civil  Engineer,  etc.  I2mo.  .  .  #1.50 

SMITH. — A  Manual  of  Political  Economy. 

By  E.  PESHINE  SMITH.  A  New  Edition,  to  which  is  added  a  full 
Index.  I2mo $1.25 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.          2J 

SMITH. — Parks  and  Pleasure-Grounds  : 

Or  Practical  Notes  on  Country  Residences,  Villas,  Public  Parks,  and 
Gardens.  By  CHARLES  H.  J.  SMITH,  Landscape  Gardener  and 
Garden  Architect,  etc.,  etc.  121110.  ....  $2.00 

SMITH. — The  Dyer's  Instructor: 

Comprising  Practical  Instructions  in  the  Art  of  Dyeing  Silk,  Cotton, 
Wool,  and  Worsted,  and  Woolen  Goods;  containing  nearly  800 
Receipts.  To  which  is  added  a  Treatise  on  the  Art  of  Padding;  and 
the  Printing  of  Silk  Warps,  Skeins,  and  Handkerchiefs,  and  the 
various  Mordants  and  Colors  for  the  different  styles  of  such  work. 
By  DAVID  SMITH,  Pattern  Dyer.  I2ino.  .  .  .  $3.00 

SMYTH.— A  Rudimentary  Treatise  on  Coal  and  Coal-Mining. 
By  WARRINGTON  W.  SMYTH,  M.  A.,  F.  R.  G.,  President  R.  G.  S. 
of  Cornwall.  Fifth  edition,  revised  and  corrected.  "With  numer- 
ous illustrations.  121110.  .  .  .  .  .  .  $i«75 

SNIVELY. — A  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Perfumes  and 

Kindred  Toilet  Articles. 

By  JOHN  H.  SNIVELY,  Phr.  D.,  Professor  of  Analytical  Chemistry  in 
the  Tennessee  College  of  Pharmacy.  8vo.  .  .  .  $3.00 

SNIVELY. — Tables  for  Systematic  Qualitative  Chemical  Anal- 
ysis. 
By  JOHN  H.  SNIVELY,  Phr.  D.     8vo.        .         .        .        .        jgi.oo 

SNIVELY. — The  Elements  of  Systematic  Qualitative  Chemical 

Analysis  : 
A  Hand-book  for  Beginners.    By  JOHN  H.  SNIVELY,  Phr.  D.    i6mo. 

$2.00 

STEWART.— The  American  System  : 

Speeches  on  the  Tariff  Question,  and  on  Internal  Improvements, 
principally  delivered  in  the  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United 
States.  By  ANDREW  STEWART,  late  M.  C.  from  Pennsylvania. 
With  a  Portrait,  and  a  Biographical  Sketch.  8vo.  .  .  $3.00 

STOKES. — The  Cabinet  Maker  and  Upholsterer's  Companion: 
Comprising  the  Art  of  Drawing,  as  applicable  to  Cabinet  Work; 
Veneering,  Inlaying,  and  Buhl-Work;  the  Art  of  Dyeing  and  Stain- 
ing Wood,  Ivory,  Bone,  Tortoise-Shell,  etc.  Directions  for  Lacker- 
ing, Japanning,  and  Varnishing;  to  make  French  Polish,  Glues, 
Cements,  and  Compositions;  with  numerous  Receipts,  useful  to  work- 
men generally.  By  J.  STOKES.  Illustrated.  A  New  Edition,  with 
an  Appendix  upon  French  Polishing,  Staining,  Imitating,  Varnishing, 
etc.,  etc.  I2mo.  ........  $1-25 

STRENGTH  AND  OTHER  PROPERTIES  OF  METALS; 
Reports  of  Experiments  on  the  Strength  and  other  Properties  of 
Metals  for  Cannon.  With  a  Description  of  the  Machines  for  Testing 
Metals,  and  of  the  Classification  of  Cannon  in  service.  By  Officers 
of  the  Ordnance  Department,  U.  S.  Army.  By  authority  of  the  Secre. 
taryof  War.  Illustrated  by  25  large  steel  plates.  Quarto  .  $10.00 

SULLIVAN. — Protection  to  Native  Industry. 

By  Sir  EDWARD  SULLIVAN,  Baronet,  author  of  "  Ten  Chapters  on 
Social  Reforms."  8vo $1.50 


*6         HENRY  CAREY  BAIRL*  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

SYME. — Outlines  of  an  Industrial  Science. 

By  DAVID  SYME.     i2mo.          .  ...        $2.00 

TABLES      SHOWING     THE     WEIGHT     OF     ROUND, 

SQUARE,  AND  FLAT  BAR  IRON,  STEEL,  ETC., 
By  Measurement.     Cloth 63 

TAYLOR. — Statistics  of  Coal : 

Including  Mineral  Bituminous  Substances  employed  in  Arts  and 
Manufactures;  with  their  Geographical,  Geological,  and  Commercial 
Distribution  and  Amount  of  Production  and  Consumption  on  the 
American  Continent.  With  Incidental  Statistics  of  the  Iron  Manu- 
facture. By  R.  C.  TAYLOR.  Second  edition,  revised  by  S.  S.  HALDE- 
MAN.  Illustrated  by  five  Maps  and  many  wood  engravings.  8vo., 
cloth  .  . $10.00 

TEMPLETON. — The  Practical  Examinator  on  Steam  and  the 

Steam -Engine: 

With  Instructive  References  relative  thereto,  arranged  for  the  Use  of 
Engineers,  Students,  and  others.  By  WILLIAM  TEMPLETON,  En- 
gineer. I2mo.  ........  $1.25 

THAUSING. — The  Theory  and  Practice  of  the  Preparation  of 

Malt  and  the  Fabrication  of  Beer : 

With  especial  reference  to  the  Vienna  Process  of  Brewing.  Elab- 
orated from  personal  experience  by  JULIUS  E.  THAUSING,  Professor 
at  the  School  for  Brewers,  and  at  the  Agricultural  Institute,  Modling, 
near  Vienna.  Translated  from  the  German  by  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT, 
Thoroughly  and  elaborately  edited,  with  much  American  matter,  and 
according  to  the  latest  and  most  Scientific  Practice,  by  A.  SCHWARZ 
and  DR.  A.  H.  BAUER.  Illustrated  by  140  Engravings.  8vo.,  815 
P^es $io.ob 

THOMAS. — The  Modern  Practice  of  Photography: 

By  R.  W.  THOMAS,  F.  C.  S.    8vo.  ....  75 

THOMPSON.— Political  Economy.     With  Especial  Reference 

to  the  Industrial  History  of  Nations  : 

By  ROBERT  E.  THOMPSON,  M.  A.,  Professor  of  Social  Science  in  the 
University  of  Pennsylvania.  121110.  .  .  .  .  $1.50 

THOMSON.— Freight  Charges  Calculator: 

By  ANDREW  THOMSON,  Freight  Agent.     2^mo.        .        .        $1.25 

TURNER'S  (THE)  COMPANION: 

Containing  Instructions  in  Concentric,  Elliptic,  and  Eccentric  Turn, 
ing;  also  various  Plates  of  Chucks,  Tools,  and  Instruments;  and 
Directions  for  using  the  Eccentric  Cutter,  Drill,  Vertical  Cutter,  and 
Circular  Rest;  with  Patterns  and  Instructions  for  working  them. 
I2mo. $1.25 

TURNING  :   Specimens  of  Fancy  Turning   Executed  on  the 

Hand  or  Foot- Lathe  : 

With  Geometric,  Oval,  and  Eccentric  Chucks,  and  Elliptical  Cutting 
"Frame.  By  an  Amateur.  Illustrated  by  30  exquisite  Photographs. 
4to. $3.00 

URBIN— BRULL.— A  Practical  Guide  for  Puddling  Iron  and 

Steel. 
By  ED.  URBIN,  Engineer  of  Arts  and  Manufactures.     A  Prize  Essay, 


HENRY  CAREY  BA1RD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.  27 

,  —- ; . _    , 

read  before  the  Association  of  Engineers,  Graduate  of  the  School  of 
Mines,  of  Liege,  Belgium,  at  the  Meeting  of  1865-6.  To  which  is 
.  added  A  COMPARISON  OF  THE  RESISTING  PROPERTIES  OF  IRON  AND 
STEEL.  By  A.  BRULL.  Translated  from  the  French  by  A.  A.  FES- 
QUET,  Chemist  and  Engineer.  8vo.  ....  $1.00 

VAILE. — Galvanized- Iron  Cornice-Worker's  Manual: 

Containing  Instructions  in  Laying  out  the  Different  Mitres,  and 
Making  Patterns  for  all  kinds  of  Plain  and  Circular  Work.  Also, 
Tables  of  Weights,  Areas  and  Circumferences  of  Circles,  and  other 
Matter  calculated  to  Benefit  the  Trade.  By  CHARLES  A.  VAILE. 
Illustrated  by  twenty-one  plates.  4to $5.00 

VILLE. — On  Artificial  Manures  : 

Their  Chemical  Selection  and  Scientific  Application  to  Agriculture. 
A  series  of  Lectures  given  at  the  Experimental  Farm  at  Vincennes, 
during  1867  and  1874-75.  By  M.  GEORGES  VILLE.  Translated  and 
Edited  by  WTILLIAM  CROOKES,  F.  R.  S.  Illustrated  by  thirty-one 
engravings.  8vo.,  450  pages $6.00 

VILLE. — The  School  of  Chemical  Manures  : 
Or,  Elementary  Principles  in  the  Use  of  Fertilizing  Agents.     From 
the  French  of  M.  GEO.  VILLE,  by  A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chemist  and  En- 
gineer.    With  Illustrations.      I2mo.  ....         $1.25 

VOGDES. — The  Architect's  and  Builder's  Pocket-Companion 

and  Price-Book : 

Consisting  of  a  Short  but  Comprehensive  Epitome  of  Decimals,  Duo- 
decimals, Geometry  and  Mensuration  ;  with  Tables  of  United  States 
Measures,  Sizes,  Weights,  Strengths,  etc.,  of  Iron,  Wood,  Stone, 
Brick,  Cement  and  Concretes,  Quantities  of  Materials  in  given  Sizes 
and  Dimensions  of  Wood,  Brick  and  Stone;  and  full  and  complete 
Bills  of  Prices  for  Carpenter's  Work  and  Painting ;  also,  Rules  for 
Computing  and  Valuing  Brick  and  Brick  Wrork,  Stone  Work,  Paint- 
ing, Plastering,  with  a  Vocabulary  of  Technical  Terms,  etc.  By 
FRANK  W.  VOGDES,  Architect,  Indianapolis,  Ind.  Enlarged,  revised, 
and  corrected.  In  one  volume,  368  pages,  full-bound,  pocket-book 

form,  gilt  edges £2.00 

Cloth         . 1.50 

WAHL. — Galvanoplastic  Manipulations  : 

A  Practical  Guide  for  the  Gold  and  Silver  Electroplater  and  tne  Gal- 
vanoplastic Operator.  Comprising  the  Electro-Deposition  of  all 
Metals  by  means  of  the  Battery  and  the  Dynamo-Electric  Machine, 
as  well  as  the  most  approved  Processes  of  Deposition  by  Simple  Im- 
mersion, with  Descriptions  of  Apparatus,  Chemical  Products  employed 
in  the  Art,  etc.  Based  largely  on  the  "  Manipulations  Hydroplas- 
tiques"  of  ALFRED  ROSELEUR.  By  WILLIAM  H.  WAHL,  Ph.  D. 
(  Heid),  Secretary  of  the  Franklin  Institute.  Illustrated  by  189  en- 
gravings. 8vo.,  656  pages $7-5° 

WALTON.— Coal-Mining  Described  and  Illustrated: 
1jy  THOMAS  H.  WALTON,  Mining  Engineer.     Illustrated  by  24  large 
and  elaborate  Plates,  after  Actual  Workings  and  Apparatus.  $5.00 


28          HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

WARE.— The  Sugar  Beet. 

\  Including  a  History  of  the  Beet  Sugar  Industry  in  Europe,  Varieties 
of  the  Sugar  Beet,  Examination,  Soils,  Tillage,  Seeds  and  Sowing, 
Yield  and  Cost  of  Cultivation,  Harvesting,  Transportation,  Conserva- 
tion, Feeding  Qualities  of  the  Beet  and  of  the  Pulp,  etc.  By  LEWIS 
S.  WARE,  C.  E.,  M.  E.  Illustrated  by  ninety  engravings.  8vo. 

$4.00 

WARN.— The  Sheet-Metal  Worker's  Instructor: 

For  Zinc,  Sheet- Iron,  Copper,  and  Tin- Plate  Workers,  etc.  Contain- 
ing a  selection  of  Geometrical  Problems ;  also,  Practical  and  Simple 
Rules  for  Describing  the  various  Patterns  required  in  the  different 
branches  of  the  above  Trades.  By  REUBEN  H.  WARN,  Practical 
Tin- Plate  Worker.  To  which  is  added  an  Appendix,  containing 
Instructions  for  Boiler-Making,  Mensuration  of  Surfaces  and  Solids, 
Rules  for  Calculating  the  Weights  of  different  Figures  of  Iron  and 
Steel,  Tables  of  the  Weights  of  Iron,  Steel,  etc.  Illustrated  by  thirty- 
two  Plates  and  thirty-seven  Wood  Engravings.  8vo.  .  $3.00 

WARNER.— New  Theorems,  Tables,  and  Diagrams,  for  the 
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HENRY  CA.REY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.          29 

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30        HENRY   CAREY   BAIRD   &    CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 


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HENRY   CAREY   BAIRD   &   CO.'S  CATALOGUE.       31 

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